France’s Answer to Italy’s Tuscany
Orientation to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Sleeping in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Villages and Sights South of Roussillon
Villages and Sights East of Roussillon: La Provence Profonde
Just 30 miles east of Avignon, the Luberon region hides some of France’s most captivating hill towns and sensuous landscapes. Those intrigued by Peter Mayle’s books love joyriding through the region, connecting I-could-live-here villages, crumbled castles, and meditative abbeys. Mayle’s bestselling A Year in Provence marked its 20th anniversary in 2010. The book describes the ruddy local culture from an Englishman’s perspective as he buys a stone farmhouse, fixes it up, and adopts the region as his new home. A Year in Provence is a great read while you’re here—or, better, get it as an audiobook and listen while you drive.
The Luberon terrain in general (much of which is a French regional natural park) is as enticing as its villages. Gnarled vineyards and wind-sculpted trees separate tidy stone structures from abandoned buildings—little more than rock piles—that challenge city slickers to fix them up. Mountains of limestone bend along vast ridges, while colorful hot-air balloons survey the sweet scene from above. The wind is an integral part of life here. The infamous mistral wind, finishing its long ride in from Siberia, hits like a hammer (see the sidebar on here).
There are no obligatory museums, monuments, or vineyards in the Luberon. Treat this area like a vacation from your vacation. Downshift your engine. Brake for the views, and lose your car to take a walk. Get on a first-name basis with a village.
To enjoy the ambience of the Luberon, you’ll want at least one night and a car (only Isle-sur-la-Sorgue—and, to a lesser extent, Lourmarin—are accessible by train or bus). Allow a half-day for Isle-sur-la-Sorgue if it’s market day (less time if not). Add more time if you want to paddle the Sorgue River or pedal between villages. You’ll also want a full day for the Luberon villages.
For the ultimate Luberon experience, drivers should base themselves in or near Roussillon. To lose the tourists, set up in St-Saturnin-lès-Apt or Saignon. If you lack wheels or prefer streams to hills and like a little more action, stay in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, located within striking distance of Avignon and on the edge of the Luberon. Adequate train service from Avignon and Marseille, and some bus service, connect Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with the real world. Level terrain, tree-lined roads, and nearby villages make Isle-sur-la-Sorgue good for biking.
The village of Lourmarin works as a southern base for visiting Luberon sights, as well as Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, and Marseille. Determined travelers can take a bus from Avignon or Aix-en-Provence to reach Lourmarin.
By Car: Luberon roads are scenic and narrow. With no major landmarks, it’s easy to get lost in this area—and you will get lost, trust me—but getting lost is the point. Pick up Michelin map #332 or #527 to navigate.
If connecting this region with the Côtes du Rhône, avoid driving through Carpentras (terrible traffic, confusing signage). If you’re in a hurry, use the autoroute from Cavaillon and get off in Orange (if you plan to visit that town), or use the exit before Orange Centre (exit #22) to get to the villages. If time is not an issue, drive via Mont Ventoux—one of Provence’s most spectacular routes (see end of previous chapter).
By Bus: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is accessible by bus from Avignon, with several daily trips and a central stop at the post office (6-8/day Mon-Sat, 3-4/day Sun, 45 minutes). Buses link Lourmarin with Avignon (3/day, 1.5 hours, transfer in Cavaillon) and Aix-en-Provence (3/day, 1.25 hours, transfer in Pertuis), making it a workable village stop between these cities. Without a car or minivan tour, skip the more famous hill towns of the Luberon.
By Train: Trains get you to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (station called “L’Isle-Fontaine de Vaucluse”) from Avignon (10/day on weekdays, 5/day on weekends, 30 minutes) or from Marseille (8/day, 1-2 hours). If you’re day-tripping by train, check return times before leaving the station.
By Minivan Tour: Dutchman Mike Rijken, who runs Wine Safari, offers tours of this area, as do several other Avignon-based companies (see “Tours of Provence” on here).
By Taxi: Contact Luberon Taxi (based in Maubec off D-3, mobile 06 08 49 40 57, www.luberontaxi.com, contact@luberontaxi.com).
By Bike: Hardy bikers can ride from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to Gordes, then to Roussillon, connecting other villages in a full-day loop ride (30 miles round-trip to Roussillon and back, with lots of hills). Many appealing villages are closer to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and offer easier biking options (described later, under “Sights—Near Isle-sur-la-Sorgue”).
Monday: Cavaillon (produce and antiques/flea market)
Tuesday: Gordes, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, and Lacoste (all small)
Wednesday: Sault (produce and antiques/flea market)
Thursday: Roussillon (cute) and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (good, but smaller than its Sunday market)
Friday: Lourmarin (very good) and Bonnieux (pretty good)
Saturday: Apt (huge produce and antiques/flea market)
Sunday: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (granddaddy of them all, produce and antiques/flea market) and Coustellet (very good and less touristy)
This sturdy market town—literally, “Island on the Sorgue River”—sits within a split in its crisp, happy little river. It’s a workaday town, with a gritty charm that feels refreshingly real after so many adorable villages. It also makes a good base for exploring the Luberon (15 minutes by car, doable by hardy bikers) and Avignon (30 minutes by car or train) and can work for exploring the Côtes du Rhône by car (allow an hour to Vaison la Romaine).
After the arid cities and villages elsewhere in Provence, the presence of water at every turn is a welcome change. In Isle-sur-la-Sorgue—called the “Venice of Provence”—the Sorgue River’s extraordinarily clear and shallow flow divides like cells, producing water, water everywhere. The river has long nourished the region’s economy. The fresh spring water of the Sorgue’s many branches has provided ample fish, irrigation for crops, and power for local industries for centuries. Today, antiques shops power the town’s economy—every other shop seems to sell some kind of antique.
Although Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is renowned for its market days (Sun and Thu), it’s an otherwise pleasantly average town with no important sights and a steady trickle of tourism. It’s calm at night and dead on Mondays. The town revolves around its river, the church square, and two pedestrian-only streets, rue de la République and rue Carnot.
The TI has information on hiking, biking itineraries, and a line on rooms in private homes, all of which are outside of town (Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-18:00, Sun 9:00-12:30, in town center next to church, tel. 04 90 38 04 78, www.oti-delasorgue.fr).
By Car: Traffic is a mess and parking is a headache on market days (all day Sunday and Thursday mornings). Circle the ring road and look for parking signs. There are several lots just west of the roundabout at Le Bassin (see map on here). You’ll also pass freestyle parking on roads leaving the city. Don’t leave anything visible in your car.
By Train: Remember that the train station is called “L’Isle-Fontaine de Vaucluse.” To reach my recommended hotels, walk straight out of the station and turn right on the ring road.
By Bus: The bus from Avignon drops you near the post office (PTT, ask driver for “luh pay-tay-tay”), a block from the recommended Hôtel les Névons.
Shop Hours: The antiques shops this town is famous for are open Saturday to Monday only.
Internet Access: Your best option is the centrally located Gécosystem (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun, 40 rue Carnot, tel. 04 90 15 40 16).
Bookstore: You’ll find a handful of English novels at La Marque-Page de l’Isle, where the pedestrian street rue de la République meets Notre-Dame des Anges church (Tue-Sat 7:00-12:30 & 15:00-19:00, Sun-Mon 7:00-12:30).
Laundry: It’s at the Centre Commercial Super U supermarket, on the ring road at the roundabout, on cours Fernande Peyre (daily 9:00-19:00).
Supermarket: A well-stocked Spar market is on the main ring road, near the Peugeot Car shop and the train station (Mon-Sat 8:30-12:30 & 15:00-19:30, Sun 15:00-19:30). A smaller, more central Casino market is on pedestrian rue de la République (Tue-Sun 7:30-12:30 & 15:30-19:30, closed Mon).
Bike Rental: Christophe at Isles 2 Roues, by the train station, rents good bikes (€15/day, closed Sun-Mon, must show your passport, 10 avenue de la Gare, tel. 04 90 38 19 12).
Taxi: Call 06 13 38 32 11 (mobile).
Public WC: A WC is in the parking lot between the post office (PTT) and the Hôtel les Névons.
Hiking: The TI has good information on area hikes; most trails are accessible by short drives, and you can use a taxi to get there.
The town has crystal-clear water babbling under pedestrian bridges stuffed with flower boxes, and its old-time carousel is always spinning. For this walk (shown on the map on the next spread), navigate by the town’s splintered streams and nine mossy waterwheels, which, while still turning, power only memories of the town’s wool and silk industries.
• Start your tour at the church next to the TI—where all streets seem to converge—and make forays into the town from there. Go first to the church.
Notre-Dame des Anges: This 12th-century church has a festive Baroque interior and feels too big for today’s town. Walk in. The curls and swirls and gilded statues date from an era that was all about Louis XIV, the Sun King. This is propagandist architecture, designed to wow the faithful into compliance. (It was made possible thanks to profits generated from the town’s river-powered industries.) When you enter a church like this, the heavens should open up and assure you that whoever built it had celestial connections (daily 10:00-12:00 & 15:15-17:00, Mass on Sun at 10:30).
Outside the church, notice the buildings’ faded facades around you, recalling their previous lives (Fabrique de Chausseures was a shoemaker; meubles means furniture). Admire Fauque Beyret’s antique facade. Isle-sur-la-Sorgue retains a connection to its past uncommon in this renovation-happy region.
• For a reality check, head into the town’s historic (though less polished) side. Angle to the left and wander down rue Danton to lose the crowds and find...
Three Waterwheels: These big, forgotten waterwheels have been in business here since the 1200s, when they were first used for grinding flour. Paper, textile, silk, and woolen mills would later find their power from this river. At its peak, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue had 70 waterwheels like this, and in the 1800s the town competed with Avignon as Provence’s cloth-dyeing and textile center. Those stylish Provençal fabrics and patterns you see for sale everywhere were made possible by this river.
• Double back to the church, turn left under the arcade, then find the small stream just past the TI. Breakaway streams like this run under the town like subways run under Paris. Take a right on the first street after the stream; it leads under a long arch (along rue J. J. Rousseau). Follow this straight, and veer slightly right at place F. Buisson and walk to the main river, then follow it left. You’ll come to...
Le Bassin: Literally translated as a “pond,” this is where the Sorgue River crashes into the town and separates into many branches. Track as many branches as you can see (Frank Provost hides a big one), and then find the round lookout point for the best perspective (carefully placed lights make this a beautiful sight after dark). Fishing was the town’s main industry until the waterwheels took over. In the 1300s, local fishermen provided the pope with his fresh-fish quota. They trapped them in nets and speared them while standing on skinny, flat-bottomed boats. Several streets are named after the fish they caught—including rue de l’Aiguille (“Eel Street”) and rue des Ecrevisses (“Crayfish Street”).
The sound of the rushing water reminds us of the power that rivers can generate. With its source (a spring) a mere five miles away, the Sorgue River never floods and has a constant flow and temperature in all seasons. Despite its exposed (flat) location, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue prospered in the Middle Ages, thanks to the natural protection this river provided. Walls with big moats once ran along the river, but they were destroyed during the French Revolution.
• Cross the busy roundabout, and walk to the neon orange Delices de Luberon store. Find the small tasting table with 12 scrumptious tapenades. Walk behind the store to find the river and take a refreshing...
Riverfront Stroll: Follow the main river upstream, along the bike/pedestrian lane, as far as you like. The little road meanders about a mile, following the serene course of the river, past waterfront homes and beneath swaying trees. It ends at the Hôtel le Pescador and a riverfront café. The wide and shallow Partage des Eaux, where the water divides before entering Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, is perfect for a cool swim on a hot day.
▲▲Market Days—The town erupts into a carnival-like market frenzy each Sunday and Thursday, with hardy crafts and local produce. The Sunday market is astounding and famous for its antiques; the Thursday market is more intimate (see market tips in the Shopping chapter). Find a table across from the church at the Café de France and enjoy the scene.
Antique Toy and Doll Museum (Musée du Jouet et de la Poupée Ancienne)—The town’s lone sight is a fun and funky toy museum with more than 300 dolls displayed in three small rooms.
Cost and Hours: €3.50, kids-€1.50; July-Sept Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, Sun 11:00-18:00; Oct-June Tue-Fri 13:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon; call ahead to confirm opening times, 26 rue Carnot, mobile 06 09 10 32 66.
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse—You’ll read and hear a lot about this overrun village, impressively located at the source of the Sorgue River, where the medieval Italian poet Petrarch mourned for his love, Laura. The river seems to magically appear from nowhere (the actual source is a murky, green waterhole) and flows through the town past a lineup of cafés, souvenir shops, and wall-to-river tourists. The setting is beautiful—with cliffs jutting to the sky and a ruined castle above—but the trip is worth it only if the spring is flowing. Sans flowing spring, this is the most overrated sight in France. Ask your hotelier if the spring is active, and arrive early or late to avoid crowds. It’s a good bike ride here from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (about four miles).
Arriving by car, you’ll pay to park (about €3), and then walk about 20 minutes along the sparkling river to la source (the spring), located in a cave at the base of the cliff. (It’s an uphill hike for the last part.) The spring itself is the very definition of anticlimactic, unless it’s surging. At those times, it’s among the most prolific water producers in the world, with a depth no one has yet been able to determine.
The path to the spring is lined with distractions. The only stops worth your time are the riverfront cafés—Philip’s offers the best seats—and the Moulin à Papier, a reproduction of a 17th-century paper mill. Here you’ll see the value of harnessing the river’s power. In the mill, a 22-foot-diameter paddle wheel turns 5 times a minute, driving hammers that pound paper for up to 36 hours (free, daily 9:00-19:00). As you watch the hammers pound away, imagine Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s waterwheels and the industries they once powered. The shop inside sells paper in every size.
Canoe Trips on the Sorgue—A better reason to travel to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is to canoe down the river. A guide escorts small groups in canoes, starting in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and ending in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue; you’ll return to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse by shuttle bus (call for departure times; ask about shuttle service from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue). If you’re really on vacation, take this five-mile, two-hour trip. Kayaks Verts is a family operation run by happy-go-lucky Michel, who speaks “small English” (€18/person, tel. 04 90 20 35 44).
Biking—Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is ideally situated for short biking forays into the mostly level terrain. Pick up a biking itinerary at the TI. These towns make easy biking destinations from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: Velleron (5 miles north, flat, a tiny version of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with waterwheels, fountains, and an evening farmers’ market Mon-Sat 18:00-20:00); Lagnes (3 miles east, a pretty and well-restored hill town with views from its ruined château); and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (5 miles northeast, gently uphill, described above). Allow 30 miles and many hills for the round-trip ride to Roussillon. (For bike-rental options, see “Helpful Hints,” earlier.)
Pickings are slim for good sleeps in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, though the few I’ve listed provide solid values.
$$$ La Prévôté*** has the town’s highest-priced digs. Its five meticulously decorated rooms—located above a classy restaurant—are decorated in earth tones, with high ceilings, a few exposed beams, and beautiful furnishings. Helpful Séverine manages the hotel while chef-hubby Jean-Marie controls the kitchen (standard Db-€145, larger Db-€165, suite Db-€200, air-con, no elevator, Internet access and Wi-Fi, rooftop deck with Jacuzzi, no parking, one block from the church at 4 rue J. J. Rousseau, tel. & fax 04 90 38 57 29, www.la-prevote.fr, contact@la-prevote.fr).
$$ Hôtel les Névons**, two blocks from the center (behind the post office), is concrete motel-modern outside, but a fair value within. The staff is eager to please, and you have two wings to choose from: the new wing, with cavernous (by local standards) and well-appointed rooms; or the old wing, with humble, but cheaper rooms. The hotel also offers several family suites and a roof deck with 360-degree views around a small pool (old wing—Db-€61; new wing—huge Db-€70, Tb-€90, Qb-€95; good but pricey breakfast, air-con, Internet access, Wi-Fi in lobby, easy parking, 205 chemin des Névons, push and hold the gate button a bit on entry, tel. 04 90 20 72 00, fax 04 90 20 56 20, www.hotel-les-nevons.com, info@hotel-les-nevons.com).
$$ Le Pont des Aubes Chambres has two huggable rooms in an old green-shuttered farmhouse right on the river a mile from town. Borrow a bike or a canoe. From here you can cross a tiny bridge and walk 15 minutes along the river into Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, or cross the street to the recommended L’Oustau de l’Isle restaurant. Charming Martine speaks English, while husband Patrice speaks smiles (Db-€75, Tb-€90, 1-room apartments-€380-450/week, cash only, a mile from town toward Apt, next to Pain d’Antan Boulangerie at 189 route d’Apt, tel. & fax 04 90 38 13 75, http://perso.wanadoo.fr/lepontdesaubes, patriceaubert@wanadoo.fr).
See “Sleep Code”
$$ Hôtel les Terrasses du Bassin rents eight spotless rooms with designer touches over a good restaurant on Le Bassin, where the river waters separate before running through town. Several rooms look out over Le Bassin. Most have some traffic noise; a few have queen-size beds (Db-€64, extra bed-€10, air-con, Wi-Fi, 2 avenue Charles de Gaulle, tel. 04 90 38 03 16, fax 04 90 38 65 61, www.lesterrassesdubassin.com, corinne@lesterrassesdubassin.com).
$$$ Chambres Sous l’Olivier, located five minutes east of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, is well-situated for exploring the hill towns of the Luberon and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Its six lovely rooms are housed in a massive 150-year-old farmhouse with lounges that you and your entire soccer team could spread out in. Julien and Carole will take care of your every need, and will cook you an exquisite, full-blown dinner with wine for €30 per person (Db-€90-135, Tb-€120, 2-room Tb-€180, 3-room suite for up to 6 people-€220, prices include breakfast; credit cards not accepted—pay with cash, euro travelers checks, or bank transfer; pool; route d’Apt, tel. 04 90 20 33 90, www.chambresdhotesprovence.com, souslolivier@orange.fr). It’s below Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, about 25 minutes from Avignon toward Apt on D-900 (near Petit Palais—don’t go to Lagnes by mistake). Look for signs 200 yards after the big sign to le Mas du Grand Jonquier, on the right.
Inexpensive restaurants are easy to find in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, but consistent quality is another story. The restaurants I list offer good value, but none of them is really “cheap.” For inexpensive meals, troll the riverside cafés for today’s catch. Dining on the river is a unique experience in this arid land, and shopping for the perfect table is half the fun. Riverside picnics work well here (the Fromenterie bakery, listed later, stocks mouthwatering quiche and more).
Begin your dinner with a glass of wine at the cozy Caveau de la Tour de l’Isle (the wine bar hides in the rear, Tue-Sun 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-20:00, closed Mon, 12 rue de la République, tel. 04 90 20 70 25).
Les Terrasses du Bassin is your best riverfront option, with moderate prices, great service, and tasty choices (eat on the terrace). The hardworking owners are dedicated to providing a good value and welcoming service. Come for a full meal or just a plat (€10 lunch salads and starters, €16 dinner plats, €24-34 dinner menu, closed Tue-Wed Oct-May, 2 avenue Charles de Gaulle, tel. 04 90 38 03 16).
La Prévôté is a place to really do it up. Its dining room is covered in wood beams, the outdoor patio is peaceful, and the ambience is country-classy but not stuffy. A branch of the Sorgue runs under the restaurant, visible through glass windows (cheapest menus about €50, save room for amazing cheese platter, closed Tue-Wed, 4 rue J. J. Rousseau, on narrow street that runs along left side of church as you face it, tel. 04 90 38 57 29).
L’Oustau de l’Isle, a mile from the town center, dishes up regional cuisine with a modern twist and a friendly welcome. Skip the modern interior and ask for a table sur la terrasse (dinner menus from €27, lunch menu for €17, closed Tue-Wed, 147 chemin de Bosquet, tel. 04 90 20 81 36). From Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s center, follow signs toward Apt, and turn right at the large, white boulangerie; determined walkers can stroll 20 minutes along the river and cross the small, unmarked bridge to chemin de Bosquet (ask, “Ou est L’Oustau de l’Isle?”, oo ay loo-stow duh leel).
The Fromenterie bakery next to the post office (PTT) sells decadent quiche, monster sandwiches, desserts, wine, and other drinks—in other words, everything you need to picnic (open daily until 20:00).
A 15-minute drive east of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue brings you to this protected area, where canyons and ridgelines rule, and land developers take a back seat. Still-proud hill towns guard access to winsome valleys, while carefully managed vineyards (producing inexpensive wines) play hopscotch with cherry groves, lavender fields, and cypress trees.
Two decades ago, Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence nudged tourism in this area into overdrive. A visit to Mayle’s quintessential Provence includes many of the popular villages and sights described in this chapter. While the hill towns can be seen as subtly different variations on the same theme, each has a distinct character. Look for differences: the color of shutters, the pattern of stones, the way flowers are planted, or the number of tourist boutiques. Every village has something to offer—it’s up to you to discover and celebrate it.
Stay in or near Roussillon. By village standards, Roussillon is always lively, and it struggles to manage its popularity. When restaurant-hunting, read descriptions of the villages in this chapter—many good finds are embedded in the countryside. For aerial views high above this charmed land, consider a hot-air balloon trip.
With a car and one full day, I’d linger in Roussillon in the morning, visit the Julien Bridge, then have lunch nearby in Lacoste or Bonnieux. After lunch, continue the joyride past Ménerbes to Oppède-le-Vieux, then return through Coustellet and Gordes. With a second full day, I’d start by climbing the Fort de Buoux, then lunch nearby. After lunch, continue to Saignon and Viens, then loop back via Le Colorado Provençal and St-Saturnin-lès-Apt.
I’ve described sights at each stop, but you’ll need to be selective—you can’t see them all. Read through your options and choose the ones that appeal most. Slow down and get to know a few places well, rather than dashing between every stop you can cram in. The best sight is the dreamy landscape between the villages.
With all the trendy charm of Santa Fe on a hilltop, photogenic Roussillon requires serious camera and café time. Roussillon has been a protected village since 1943 and has benefited from a complete absence of modern development. An enormous deposit of ochre, which gives the earth and its buildings that distinctive red color, provided this village with its economic base until shortly after World War II. This place is popular; it’s best to visit early or late in the day.
Roussillon sits atop Mont Rouge (Red Mountain) at about 1,000 feet above sea level, and requires some uphill walking to reach. Exposed ochre cliffs form the village’s southern limit.
The little TI is in the center, across from the David restaurant. If in need of accommodations, leaf through their good binders describing area hotels and chambres d’hôte. Walkers should get info on trails from Roussillon to nearby villages (TI open April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 13:30-18:00, closed Sun except in summer; Nov-March Mon-Sat 14:00-17:30, closed Sun; tel. 04 90 05 60 25, www.roussillon-provence.com).
Parking lots are available at every entry to the village (all €3/day, free if you’re staying overnight and have arranged it with your hotel). Parking Sablons is near the recommended Hôtel Rêves d’Ocres. Parking Pasquier is closest to the village center, but has only 16 spots. Parking des Ocres (also called “P2”) is the large lot on the hill toward the entrance to the ochre cliffs. Day-trippers should head straight here, as it’s easier to find spots and comes with the best view of Roussillon. If you approach from Gordes or Joucas, you’ll pass Sablons first. If you’re coming from D-900 and the south, you’ll land at Ocres/P2 or Pasquier (but don’t park at Pasquier on Wednesday night, because Thursday is Roussillon’s market day). Leave nothing valuable showing in your car.
An ATM is next to the TI. Internet access and a modest selection of English books are available at the delightful Librairie du Luberon on the main square (daily 10:00-18:00, tel. 04 90 71 55 72; its restaurant is described later, under “Eating in Roussillon”).
This quick walk will take you through Roussillon’s village to its ochre cliffs.
• To begin the walk, climb a few minutes from any parking lot (passing the Hollywood set-like square under the bell tower and the church) to the summit of...
Find the orientation plaque and the dramatic viewpoint, often complete with a howling mistral. During the Middle Ages, a castle stood where you are, on the top of Red Mountain (Mont Rouge), and watched over the village below. Though nothing remains of the castle today, the strategic advantage of this site is clear. Count how many villages you can identify, and then notice how little sprawl there is in the valley below. Because the Luberon has been declared a natural reserve (Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon), development is strictly controlled.
A short stroll down leads to the church. Duck into the pretty 11th-century Church of St. Michel, and appreciate the natural air-conditioning and the well-worn center aisle. The white interior tells you that the stone came from elsewhere, and the WWI memorial plaque over the side door suggests a village devastated by the war (more than 40 people died from little Roussillon).
See “Boules (Pétanque)”
On leaving the church, look across the way to the derelict building, a reminder of Roussillon’s humble roots. After World War II, when the demand for ochre faded, this was a dusty, poor village. Adding to the town’s economic woes, many residents fled for an easier life below, with level streets and modern conveniences. Abandoned buildings like this presented a serious problem (common throughout France)...until the tourists discovered Roussillon, and folks began reinvesting in the village. This building is still looking for a buyer. Detour behind the building down a small lane to find the chemin de Ronde, with terrific views of the Luberon and Gordes from atop the medieval walls.
• Return to the church and continue down to the village.
Notice the clamped-iron beams that shore up old walls. Examine the different hues of yellow and orange. These lime-finished exteriors, called chaux (literally, “limes”), need to be redone about every 10 years. Locals choose their exact color...but in this town of ochre, it’s never white. The church tower that you walk under once marked the entrance to the fortified town. Just before dropping down to the square, turn right and find the gigantic 150-year-old grapevine that decorates Restaurant la Treille. This is what you get when you don’t prune.
Linger over un café, or—if it’s later in the day—un pastis, in what must be the most picturesque village square in Provence (place de la Mairie). Watch the stream of shoppers. Is anyone playing boules at the opposite end? You could paint the entire town without ever leaving the red-and-orange corner of your palette. Many do. While Roussillon receives its share of day-trippers, mornings and evenings are romantically peaceful on this square. The Librairie du Luberon bookshop on the square’s corner deserves a visit (nice top-floor restaurant).
• With the cafés on your right, drop downhill past the lineup of shops and turn right past the TI to find the parking lot just beyond. Animals grazed here for centuries. It was later turned into a school playground. When tourists outnumbered students, it became a parking lot. Walk past the parking lot with the cliffs on your left and find the...
Roussillon was Europe’s capital for ochre production until World War II. A stroll to the south end of town, beyond the upper parking lot, shows you why: Roussillon sits on the world’s largest known ochre deposit. A radiant orange path leads through the richly colored ochre canyon, explaining the hue of this village.
Ochre is made of iron oxide and clay. When combined with sand, it creates the yellowish-red pigments you see in the buildings around you. Although ochre is also produced in the US and Italy, the quality of France’s ochre is considered le best.
The value of Roussillon’s ochre cliffs was known even in Roman times. Once excavated, the clay ochre was rinsed with water to separate it from sand, then bricks of the stuff were dried and baked for deeper hues. The procedure for extracting the ochre did not change much over 2,000 years, until ochre mining became industrialized in the late 1700s. Used primarily for wallpaper and linoleum, ochre use reached its zenith just before World War II. (After that, cheaper substitutes took over.)
Cost and Hours: €2.50, €7 combo-ticket with Ochre Conservatory—described next; daily 9:30-18:30, until 19:30 in summer; beware: light-colored clothing and orange powder don’t mix.
Ochre Conservatory (Conservatoire des Ocres et Pigments Appliqués)—For a terrific introduction to the history and uses of ochre, visit this intriguing reconstructed ochre factory. Grab a pamphlet to follow their well-done self-guided tour, which shows how ochre is converted from an ore to a pigment (allow 45 minutes). Your visit ends with a great bookshop and a chance to try your hand at ochre painting.
Cost and Hours: €6, €7 combo-ticket with ochre cliffs, daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, about a half-mile below Roussillon toward Apt on D-104, tel. 04 90 05 66 69, www.okhra.com.
Domaine de Tara—Just below Roussillon, on the road to Joucas, this welcoming winery has been making excellent wines for only 15 years. All wines are AOC Côtes du Ventoux; about half the production is red, about half is white, and a small amount is rosé.
Cost and Hours: Prices vary by wine, daily 10:00-19:00, tel. 04 90 05 74 87, www.domainedetara.com.
Hot-Air Balloon Flight—Ply the calm morning air above the Luberon in a hot-air balloon. The Montgolfières-Luberon outfit has two flight options: the Four-Star Flight (€255, 1.5 hours in balloon, allow 3 hours total, includes picnic and champagne) and the economy-class Tourist Flight (€160, 45 minutes, includes glass of bubbly). For either flight, meet on the main road below Joucas at 7:00 (reserve a few days ahead, maximum 12 passengers, mobile 06 03 54 10 92, www.montgolfiere-luberon.com).
Goult—Bigger than its sister hill towns, this surprisingly quiet village seems content to be away from the tourist path. Wander up the hill to the panoramic view and windmill, and consider its many good restaurants—where you won’t have to compete with tourists for a table. Small and well-run, Aux Fines Herbes is ideally situated on the main square, and its food is affordable and as fresh as it gets (menus from €25 daily, rue de la République, tel. 04 32 50 23 54). Trendier La Bartavelle is the place in town to dine—it has reasonable prices, but is darn popular (book a table well in advance, menus from €40, closed Tue-Wed, rue du Cheval Blanc, tel. 04 90 72 33 72).
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 33)
The TI posts a list of hotels and chambres d’hôte. Parking is free if you sleep in Roussillon—ask your hotelier where to park. The village offers three good-value accommodations—conveniently, one for each price range.
$$$ Le Clos de la Glycine*** provides Roussillon’s plushest accommodations, with nine gorgeous rooms located dead-center in the village (Db-€140-160, big Db-€180, loft suite with deck and view-€275, Wi-Fi, located at the refined restaurant David—so they prefer you pay for half-pension, across from the TI on place de la Poste, tel. 04 90 05 60 13, fax 04 90 05 75 80, www.luberon-hotel.com, le.clos.de.la.glycine@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel Rêves d’Ocres** is a good two-star value, run by friendly Sandrine and Yvan. It’s ochre-colored, warm, and decently comfortable, with 16 mostly spacious and tastefully designed rooms—some with musty bathrooms. Eight smaller rooms have view terraces, but are très cozy (and hot inside when it’s warm outside). Fortunately, the hotel also has a lovely lounge where you can stretch out (Sb-€60, Db without balcony-€80, Db with balcony-€85, Tb-€100, Qb-€120, meek air-con, Internet access, Wi-Fi, route de Gordes, tel. 04 90 05 60 50, fax 04 90 05 79 74, www.hotel-revesdocres.com, hotelrevesdocres@wanadoo.fr). Coming from Gordes and Joucas, it’s the first building you pass in Roussillon.
$ Madame Cherel rents bare-bones rooms with firm beds and a shared view terrace at fair rates (D-€45-49, family suite available, cash only, includes basic breakfast, Wi-Fi, access to kitchenette, 3 blocks from upper parking lot, between Casino store and school, La Burlière, tel. 04 90 05 71 71, mulhanc@hotmail.com). Chatty and sincere Cherel speaks English and is a wealth of regional travel tips.
These listings are for drivers only. The last two are most easily found by turning north off D-900 at the Roussillon/Les Huguets sign (the second turnoff to Roussillon coming from Avignon). Joucas, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, and Lacoste (all described later) also have good beds near Roussillon.
$$$ At Le Mas d’Estonge, charming Christiane and Robert welcome you into their little Provençal paradise. Their five well-furnished and cozy rooms share a sweet patio and a pool (Db-€90-135, suites-€140-180, 10 minutes from Roussillon on D-227, tel. 04 90 05 63 13, www.destonge.com).
$$ Le Clos des Cigales is a fine refuge run by friendly Philippe and his wife Brigitte. Of their five blue-shuttered, stylish bungalows, two are doubles and three are two-room suites with tiny kitchenettes; all have private patios facing a big pool. When you arrive, you’ll understand the name—the cacophony from the cigales (cicadas) is deafening (Db-€80-90, Tb/Qb suite-€100-120, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, table tennis, hammock, 5 minutes from Roussillon toward Goult on D-104, tel. & fax 04 90 05 73 72, www.leclosdescigales.com, philippe.lherbeil@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel les Sables d’Ocre** offers 22 motelesque rooms, a big pool, the greenest grass around, air-conditioning, and fair rates (Db-€70, spring for the Db with garden balcony-€84, Tb loft-€100-120, a half-mile after leaving Roussillon toward Apt at intersection of D-108 and D-104, tel. 04 90 05 55 55, fax 04 90 05 55 50, www.sablesdocre.com, sablesdocre@orange.fr).
Choose ambience over cuisine if dining in Roussillon, and enjoy any of the eateries on the main square. It’s a festive place, where children twirl while parents dine, and dogs and cats look longingly for leftovers. Restaurants change with the mistral here—what’s good one year disappoints the next. Consider my suggestions and go with what looks best (or look over my recommendations in other Luberon villages). Look also at the hotels listed in Joucas (see “Sleeping and Eating in Joucas,” later)—all offer quality cuisine at fair prices, just a few minutes’ drive from Roussillon.
The following places share the same square and offer similar values. At least one should be open.
At Le Bistrot de Roussillon, Johan offers the most consistent value on the square, with excellent salads (try the salad du bistrot) and plats for the right price. There’s a breezy terrace in back and a comfy interior (€15 for a filling salad and dessert, €13-16 plats, daily, tel. 04 90 05 74 45).
Café Couleur and Le Castrum flank Le Bistrot de Roussillon, offering similar atmosphere and prices, but less-steady quality.
See “Luberon Restaurants that Justify the Trip”
Librairie du Luberon, opposite the above-listed restaurants on the square, hides a slick top-floor restaurant/salon de thé above its bookstore. Have lunch or a drink outside on the splendid terrace, or inside surrounded by books—for a price (€19 plats, restaurant closed Mon, tel. 04 90 71 55 72).
The following is just one of many excellent eateries that lie a short drive from Roussillon; for others, see the sidebar.
La Petite Ecole is where locals go for fine cuisine at affordable prices. The perfect team—host Denis and chef Sophie—enthusiastically welcome travelers and locals into their nine-table restaurant (more tables outside). It’s in an old schoolhouse with an unimpressive roadside location (but you won’t care). This is a real experience—the food is fresh and very Provençal. Arrive when they open at 19:30 to score a table, or reserve ahead. There’s an outdoor terrace, but I like the inside scene (€21 two-course menus, €29 and €40 three-course menus, cheaper at lunch, closed Sun-Mon, below Roussillon on D-900 in Le Chêne, tel. 04 32 52 16 41).
This understated, quiet, and largely overlooked village slumbers below the Gordes buzz. Vertical stone lanes with carefully arranged flowers and well-restored homes play host to aspiring Claude Monets and a smattering of locals. There’s not much to do or see here, except eat, sleep, and just be. Joucas has one tiny grocery, a view café, one pharmacy, a good kids’ play area, and one good-value accommodation option. Sleep here for a central location and utter silence. For views, walk past the little fountain in the center and up the steep lanes as high as you want.
Several hiking trails leave from Joucas. Gordes and Roussillon are each three miles away, uphill. Even better, hikers can take the three-mile hike to the attractive village of Murs, with several cafés/restaurants, though it’s easier in the other direction (yellow signs point the way from the top of the village). You don’t have to go far to enjoy the natural beauty on this trail.
$$ Hostellerie des Commandeurs**, run by soft Anne-Sophie and Gérard, has modern, comfortable, and clean rooms in the village of Joucas. It’s kid-friendly, with a big pool and a sports field/play area next door. Ask for a south-facing room (coté sud) for the best views, or a north-facing room (coté nord) if it’s hot. All rooms have showers (Db-€64-68, extra bed-€16, small fridges, above park at village entrance, tel. 04 90 05 78 01, fax 04 90 05 74 47, www.lescommandeurs.com, hostellerie@lescommandeurs.com). The simple restaurant offers tasty cuisine at fair prices (three-course menus from €21, succulent lamb, memorable crème brûlée with lavender, restaurant closed Wed).
$$$ La Ferme de la Huppe*** has a Gordes address, but it’s closer, physically and spiritually, to Joucas. This small farmhouse-elegant hacienda makes an excellent mini-splurge. Ten low-slung rooms gather on two levels behind the stylish pool. The decor is tasteful, understated, and rustic (small Db-€140, bigger Db-€170, much bigger Db-€200, includes good breakfast, small fridges, air-con, Wi-Fi; between Joucas and Gordes on D-156 road to Goult, just off D-2; tel. 04 90 72 12 25, fax 04 90 72 25 39, www.lafermedelahuppe.com, info@lafermedelahuppe.com). Dine poolside or in the smart dining room (€42 three-course menu or €62 five-course tasting menu).
$$$ Le Mas du Loriot, a 10-minute drive up from town, is another worthwhile almost-in-Joucas value. Gentle owners Alain and Christine have carved the ideal escape out of an olive grove, with eight soothing rooms, private terraces, a generous pool, and home-cooked dinners—all at fair prices and with a view to remember (Db with terrace-€115-145, Db sans terrace-€60, extra bed-€20, €40 four-course dinners available 4 nights a week—when half-pension is a smart idea, Internet access, on D-102 between Joucas and Murs, tel. 04 90 72 62 62, Wi-Fi, fax 04 90 72 62 54, www.masduloriot.com, hotel@masduloriot.com).
Le Luberon is packed with appealing villages and beautiful scenery, but it has only a handful of must-see sights. I’ve grouped them by area to make your sightseeing planning easier (see the Luberon map at the beginning of this chapter). Busy D-900 slices like an arrow through the heart of the Luberon, dividing the region in half. The more popular and visited section lies above D-900 (with Roussillon and Gordes), while the villages to the south seem a bit less trampled.
The busiest sights are in and near Gordes; I’ve listed those first, to encourage you to avoid afternoon crowds. Beyond that, you’re free to connect the stops however you please. Rambling the Luberon’s spaghetti network of small roads is a joy, and getting lost comes with the territory—go with it. None of the sights listed below is a must-see, but all are close to each other. Pick up a good map (Michelin maps #332 and #527 work for me).
In the 1960s, Gordes was a virtual ghost town of derelict buildings. But now it’s thoroughly renovated and filled with people who live in a world without calluses. Many Parisian big shots and wealthy foreigners have purchased and restored older homes here, putting property values out of sight for locals—and creating gridlock and parking headaches (come early).
Ponder a region that in the last 40 years has experienced such a dramatic change. Post-World War II, the Luberon was mired in poverty. By 1970, the Luberon had recovered, but was still unknown to most travelers. Locals led simple lives and had few ambitions. Then came the theater festival in Avignon, bringing directors who wanted to re-create perfect Provençal villages on film. Parisians, Swiss, Brits, and a few Americans followed, willing to pay any price for their place in the Provençal sun. Property taxes increased—as did the cost of une bière at the corner café—and all too soon, villagers found themselves with few affordable options.
The village’s setting is striking. As you approach Gordes, make a hard right at the impressive view of the place (you’ll find some parking along the small road). Beyond here, the village has little of interest, except its many boutiques and its Tuesday market (which ends at 13:00). The town’s 11th-century castle houses a mildly interesting collection of contemporary art.
The first two sights—the Abbey Notre-Dame de Sénanque and the Village des Bories—are both well-marked from Gordes.
Abbey Notre-Dame de Sénanque—This still-functioning and beautifully situated Cistercian abbey was built in 1148 as a back-to-basics reaction to the excesses of Benedictine abbeys. The Cistercians strove to be separate from the world and to recapture the simplicity, solitude, and poverty of the early Church. To succeed required industrious self-sufficiency—a skill these monks excelled at. Their movement spread and colonized Europe with a new form of Christianity. By 1200 there were more than 500 such monasteries and abbeys in Europe.
The abbey is best appreciated from the outside, and is worth the trip for its splendid and remote setting alone. Come early or late, stop at a pullout for a bird’s-eye view as you descend, then wander the abbey’s perimeter with fewer tourists. The abbey church (Eglise Abbatiale) is open and highlights the utter simplicity sought by these monks. The beautiful bookshop is worth a look as well (Cistercians know how to turn a profit). In late June through much of July, the lavender fields that surround the abbey make for breathtaking pictures and draw loads of visitors, making it more important to be here outside the midday crush.
The abbey itself can only be visited on a 50-minute, French-only tour with an English handout. The tour covers Sénanque’s church, the small cloisters, the refectory, and a chauffoir, a small heated room where monks could copy books year-round. The interior, which doesn’t measure up to the abbey’s spectacular setting, is not worth it for most people.
A small monastic community still resides here. For more on monasteries, see the sidebar.
Cost and Hours: €7, includes mandatory French-only tour—about 6/day Mon-Sat; Mon-Sat 10:00-12:00 & 13:30-18:00, Sun 14:00-18:00, tel. 04 90 72 05 72, www.senanque.fr. You can also attend Mass (usually Sun at 10:00, Mon at 8:30, Tue-Sat at 12:00, check website or call to confirm).
See “Medieval Monasteries”
Leaving the Abbey: If your next destination is near Roussillon, Bonnieux, or Apt, leave the abbey opposite the way you arrived, following signs to Gordes, then Roussillon, then follow Murs and Joucas...and enjoy the ride.
Village des Bories—A lengthy stone-bordered dirt road sets the mood for this mildly entertaining open-air museum of stone huts (bories). The vertical stones you see on the walls as you approach the site were used as counterweights to keep these walls, built without mortar, intact. The “village” you tour is made up of dry-laid stone structures, proving that there has always been more stone than wood in this rugged region. Stone villages like this predated the Romans—some say by 2,000 years. This one was inhabited for 200 years (from about 1600 to 1800). Bories can still be seen in fields throughout the Luberon; most are now used to store tools or hay. A look around these hills confirms the supply of building materials: The trees are small and gnarled (not good for construction), but white stone grows everywhere.
The Village des Bories is composed of five “hamlets.” You’ll duck into several homes and see animal pens, a community oven, and more (identified in English). Study the “beehive” stone-laying method and imagine the time it took to construct. The villagers had no scaffolds or support arches—just hammers and patience.
Cost and Horus: €6, buy €4 booklet of English translations to learn more, daily June-Sept 9:00-20:00, Oct-May 9:00-17:30, tel. 04 90 72 03 48.
Bouillon Olive Mill and Museum of Glass (Moulin des Bouillons and Musée de l’Histoire du Verre)—This fun museum park is a true Back Door experience. Find an hour and fork it over to two charming women who will explain to you (in English) the mill and the museum. Start with Carole at the olive mill, which has been in use for more than 2,000 years. You’ll learn about this ancient practice, including how olive oil and its products are made. The Roman remains are nice, but they take a back seat to the massive 400-year-old oak olive press.
Then wander with the chickens through a small park and modern sculpture garden to the solar-paneled, bunker-like Museum of Glass. Here Béatrice will teach you about the historic importance of glass from Roman times to contemporary glassblowing. You’ll learn about the medieval art of stained glass and see modern glass made by the museum’s benefactor, Madame Frédérique Duran. The newest exhibit describes the use of glass to dispose of nuclear waste.
Cost and Hours: €5 for either mill or museum, €7.50 for both, April-Oct Wed-Mon 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue, by appointment in winter; well-signed between Gordes, Coustellet, and St. Pantaléon on D-148; tel. 04 90 72 22 11.
St. Pantaléon—This postage-stamp-sized village feels lost in the valley below Gordes. It comes with an adorable 12th-century Romanesque church and a remarkable necropolis, with tombs—many in the distinct shape of a human body—carved right out of the rock on which the church was built. It’s a peaceful, moving site. To visit the interior of the church, cross the street to the gallery/café owned by two likeable artists (who also have a gallery in Roussillon) and ask for the key—you’re on your own in the church. The café makes a nice spot to stop for a cheap drink (and free Wi-Fi; open daily).
Museum of Lavender (Musée de la Lavande)—Located halfway between Gordes and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in Coustellet, this surprisingly engaging museum does a good job explaining the process of lavender production with interesting exhibits and good English information (with an audioguide, a film, and posted explanations at the exhibits). It’s popular with tour groups, smells great inside, and offers the ultimate “if they made it with lavender, we sell it” gift shop. For more on this fragrant flower, see here.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily May-Sept 9:00-19:00, Oct-April 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, in Coustellet just off D-900 toward Gordes, tel. 04 90 76 91 23.
These villages and sights below Roussillon and D-900 feel less visited than places north of this busy road. You’ll need a good half-day to visit them all (see the map on here to get oriented). They work well in the order described below, with lunch in Bonnieux or Lacoste (for recommendations, see sidebar on here). The first sight is situated south of Roussillon, where D-108 crosses D-900.
This delicate three-arched bridge survives as a testimony to Roman engineers—and to the importance of this rural area 2,000 years ago. It’s the only surviving bridge on what was the main road from northern Italy to Provence—the primary route used by Roman armies. The 215-foot-long Roman bridge was under construction from 27 B.C. to A.D. 14. Mortar had not yet been invented, so (as with Pont du Gard) stones were carefully set in place. Amazingly, the bridge survives today, having outlived Roman marches, hundreds of floods, and decades of automobile traffic. A new bridge finally rerouted traffic from this beautiful structure in 2005.
Walk below the bridge. Notice how thin the layer of stone seems between the arch tops and the road. Those open niches weren’t for statues, but instead allowed water to pass through when the river ran high. (At its current trickle, that’s hard to fathom.) Walk under an arch and examine the pockmarks in the side—medieval thieves in search of free bronze stole the clamps.
Well-signed halfway between the Julien Bridge and Bonnieux, this pretty winery makes even prettier wines at reasonable prices. They also make it easy for travelers, with a welcoming tasting room offering the full range of wines—from Viognier and Chardonnay whites to rosés and rich reds. Owner-in-waiting and winemaker Nathalie greets guests on weekdays. Compare the Vendanges de Nathalie with the vin du pays for a good contrast in reds.
Cost and Hours: Average bottle costs €10, Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 75 81 01.
Spectacular from a distance, this town disappoints me up close. It lacks a pedestrian center, though the Friday-morning market briefly creates one. The main reason to visit here is to enjoy its excellent restaurants and views.
Sleeping in and near Bonnieux: $$$ Le Clos du Buis is an eight-room chambres d’hôte in Bonnieux’s center, run by eager-to-please Lydia and Pierre. Their veranda makes a great place to sip a glass of rosé while taking in views over the Luberon (Db-€102-132, in the middle of town on rue Victor Hugo, tel. 04 90 75 88 48, fax 04 90 75 88 57, www.leclosdubuis.fr, le-clos-du-buis@wanadoo.fr).
The country-elegant chambre d’hôte $$$ Mas del Sol, between Bonnieux and Lacoste, is perfect for connoisseurs of the Luberon. Young Lucine and Richard Massol rent five bright, spacious rooms that come with views, vines, olives, and a big breakfast. The setting is unbeatable, and the stylish pool and gardens will calm your nerves (Db-€100-150, tel. 04 90 75 94 80, www.mas-del-sol.com, lemasdelsol@gmail.com). From D-900, take the D-36 turnoff to Bonnieux and look for Mas del Sol signs after about three kilometers.
Eating in Bonnieux: Le Terrail is a local hangout where dogs are welcome and the humans enjoy an outside terrace with great views (or at least those lucky enough to land an end table). Owner Nicolas makes a point of using fresh fish and produce—the only frozen food here is his homemade ice cream (€11 lunch plats, try the aioli, dinner menus from €22, open daily, place Gambetta, tel. 04 90 75 93 73). If you’d prefer your ice cream to go, pick some up across the street.
Le Fournil feels a bit stuffy, but serves marvelous food in a postcard-perfect terrace, with outdoor tables around a tranquil fountain. The interior is uninviting (unless you dig caves and modern decor), so book an outdoor table or skip it (€15 lunch plats, €42 dinner menus, closed for lunch Tue and Sat and all day Mon, next to TI, tel. 04 90 75 83 62).
Little Lacoste slumbers across the valley from Bonnieux in the shadow of its looming castle. Climb through this photogenic village of arches and stone paths, passing American art students (from the Savannah College of Art and Design) showing their work. Support an American artist, learn about the art, and then keep climbing and climbing to the ruined castle base. The view of Bonnieux from the base of Lacoste’s castle is as good as it gets.
The Marquis de Sade (1740-1814) lived in this castle for more than 30 years. Author of dirty novels, he was notorious for hosting orgies behind these walls, and for kidnapping peasants for scandalous purposes. He was eventually arrested and imprisoned for 30 years, and thanks to him, we have a word to describe his favorite hobby—sadism. Today, clothing designer Pierre Cardin lives in the lower part of the castle, having spent a fortune shoring up the protective walls and sponsoring a high-priced summer opera series. Some locals are critical of Cardin, claiming that he is buying up the town to create his own “faux-Provence.” Could “Cardism” be next?
Eating in Lacoste: If it’s time for lunch, find the Bar/Restaurant de France’s outdoor tables overlooking Bonnieux and savor the view (inexpensive, good omelets, daily, lunch only off-season, tel. 04 90 75 82 25).
A dirt road off D-103 between Lacoste and Ménerbes leads down to this long-forgotten and pint-size abbey. There’s not much to see here—it’s more about the experience. The tranquility and isolation sought by monks 800 years ago are still palpable in the simple church and modest cloisters. Once a Cistercian outpost for the bigger abbey at Sénanque, Abbey St. Hilaire is now owned by Carmelite Friars. The lone stone bench in front is picnic-ready, and a rugged WC is cut into the rock (across the courtyard). For a pleasing loop walk, start at the abbey and cross over the D-3 road to a path running along the base of the Luberon range (details available at the abbey). Leave nothing valuable in your car at this remote site.
Ménerbes, now (in)famous as the village that drew author Peter Mayle’s attention to this region, is also noteworthy for its truffle center and a smattering of scenic buildings. To explore Ménerbes, stash your car, then follow Eglise signs to the end of the village.
Sights in Ménerbes: At the end of rue Corneille you’ll pass the citadel, built in 1584 (after the Protestants of Ménerbes were defeated in the religious wars of 1577)—and never tested. The citadel is privately owned today, but from the outside you can still enjoy the impressive facade, which spans the width of the rock. Nearby, the ancient stone prison tower is also worth a look.
At the village’s end, find the heavy Romanesque church (closed and under renovation) and graveyard (good views in all directions). You’re face-to-face with the Grand Luberon ridge. Notice the quarry carved into its side, where the stone for this village came from.
On the way back, foodies can duck into the snazzy Maison de la Truffe et du Vin, which offers “truffle discovery workshops” (call for schedule, tel. 04 90 72 38 37), a fine little jardin à la française (more great views), and a cute tasting room serving several Luberon wines. All 180 of the Luberon’s wines are sold here for the same price you’d pay at the winery. Their small restaurant serves a killer €24 truffe d’été menu (summer truffle, available June-Sept), best enjoyed in the garden’s lovely setting (daily 12:30-17:00).
The Corkscrew Museum (Musée du Tire-Bouchon) lies a kilometer below Ménerbes and is worth a stop if you’re a corkscrew enthusiast or want to taste their wines (Domaine de la Citadelle). They have 1,200 corkscrews on display in glass cases and a well-stocked gift shop (€4 for the “museum,” includes tasting, daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, tel. 04 90 72 41 58).
This windy barnacle of a town clings with all its might to its hillside. There’s one boutique, two cafés, and a dusty little square at the base of a short, ankle-twisting climb to a pretty little church and ruined castle. This off-the-beaten-path fixer-upper of a village was completely abandoned in 1910, and today has a ghost town-like feel (it once housed 200 people). The inhabited village below has a rugged character and shows little inclination for boutiques and smart hotels. It’s ideal for those looking to perish in Provence.
Sights in Oppède-le-Vieux: Plan your ascent to the castle. It’s 20 minutes straight up, but the Luberon views justify the effort. (After making this walk, you’ll understand why locals abandoned it for more level terrain.) Small information panels provide a worthwhile background in English as you climb. Walk under the central arch of the building across from Le Petit Café and climb. After walking under the arch, look back to notice the handsome building it supports. At the fork, you can go either way (though the path to the right is easier). Find the little church terrace. From here, tiled rooftops paint a delightful picture with the grand panorama; the flat plain of the Rhône delta is visible off to the left.
The colorful Notre-Dame d’Alidon church (1588) is generally open 9:30-18:30 (depending on availability of village volunteers, who are eager to answer questions). There’s been a church on this site for 1,000 years. Pick up the English text and imagine having to climb this distance at least every Sunday—for your entire life. Notice the pride locals have for their church: You’ll see new gold-leaf accents and other efforts to spruce up the long-abandoned building. The steps to chapels on the right were necessary, thanks to the church’s hillside setting. Wander above the church. Mountain goats can climb on what remains of the castle (pay attention—there are no rails).
Eating and Sleeping in Oppède-le-Vieux: Once you’re back down, consider a cheap and tasty lunch with views of the castle ruins at Petit Café, where friendly Jean-Marie is in charge (closed Wed, also closed for dinner on Tue night and Nov-April). $$ Petit Café also offers simple but comfy rooms (Db-€65-75, big Db-€95, includes breakfast, Jacuzzi, sauna, rooftop terrace, tel. 04 90 76 74 01, www.petitcafe.fr).
Getting There: To find Oppède-le-Vieux from D-900, follow signs to Oppède and Oppède le Village, then Oppède-le-Vieux, and drive toward le Petit Luberon massif. You’ll follow a long, one-way loop and be forced to park a few hundred yards from the village (unless you’re sleeping there), for which you’ll get to pay €3.
Provence is busy with tourists, but there are still plenty of characteristic and less-discovered places to explore. The area east of Roussillon feels quieter and less touristed—come here to get a sense of how most villages were before they became “destinations.” Here are the key sights in the order that you’ll pass them coming from Roussillon or Joucas. Allow a full day to complete this loop. If all you have is a half-day, head straight for Fort de Buoux (see map on here).
Most tourists pass by this pleasant town (with a lively Tuesday market) on their way to more famous destinations. I couldn’t find a souvenir shop. Ditch your car below the main entry to the town (just below the old city) and walk up the main drag past the Hôtel Saint Hubert (rue de la République). You’ll come to a striking church that’s a fine example of Provençal Romanesque, with a tall, rounded spire (the interior is often closed). From here, find the ramp with Le Château signs and climb. The ruined “château” grows right out of the rock, making it difficult to tell the man-made from the natural. Go left as you enter and hike as high as the sun allows with no shade—faded green dots guide you up. It’s a scamperer’s paradise, with views that rank among the best village-top vistas I’ve found in Provence. Find your way through the small opening to the little dam. On the opposite side of the reservoir is a shaded picnic table. The small chapel at the very top is only open on Sunday mornings in summer, but at any time you can take the path to the right of the chapel back down the hill to the village, where you’ll see a lovely medieval gate.
Sleeping and Eating in or near St-Saturnin-lès-Apt: For a warm welcome, stay at $$$ Mas Perréal just outside St-Saturnin-lès-Apt. American Kevin and his Parisian wife, Elisabeth, left no stone unturned as they restored their lovely farmhouse. Elisabeth teaches French—that’s how Kevin met her—and still gives lessons (book in advance). This place features sumptuous rooms (each with its own terrace), a pool, 360-degree views (they own the vineyards and orchards around you), elaborate American-size breakfasts that change daily, and no language barrier (Db-€125-140, includes big breakfast, tel. 04 90 75 46 31, fax 04 90 04 88 08, www.masperreal.com, elisabeth-kevin@masperreal.com). Mas Perréal is off D-943, between St-Saturnin-lès-Apt and D-900. Coming from D-900, turn left at Moulin d’Huile d’Olive, continue 1.2 kilometers (three-quarters of a mile), cross one “major” road, then look for signs on your right.
$$ Hôtel des Voyageurs*, with amiable owners Nadine and Alain (who speak no English), is a time warp that has survived many Provençal trends without changing its look or product. The basic accommodations gather around uneven floors and a frumpy upstairs terrace that only an artist could love (modest but nice Db-€60-68, big Db-€72). The Old World restaurant, with vintage floor tiles, serves traditional cuisine that locals adore (menus from €20, closed all day Wed and Thu for lunch, tel. 04 90 75 42 08, fax 04 90 75 50 58, hotel.rest.voyageur@orange.fr). It’s at the base of the old village—look for signs.
This park has ochre cliffs similar to Roussillon’s, but they’re spread over a larger area, with well-signed trails. If hiking through soft, orange sand and Bryce Canyon-like rocks strikes your fancy, make time for Le Colorado Provençal.
For the best walk, cross the little footbridge and follow either the Cheminée de Fée or the Sahara trail. (Trails are color-coded and easy to follow, allow about 30-40 minutes for each with modest elevation gain; Cheminée de Fée is more impressive, but steeper.) Light-colored clothing is a bad choice. Signs remind you to please remain on the trails and not to climb the cliffs.
Cost and Hours: Park is free and always open; located a kilometer below Rustrel off D-22, between Apt and Gignac—follow signs toward the village of Rustrel, the gateway to Le Colorado Provençal. A large, clearly marked parking lot on D-22 has snack stands; allow €4 for parking. Parking attendants are available from about 9:00 until 17:00 or 18:00.
Located about 15 minutes uphill and east of Le Colorado Provençal (turn right when leaving Colorado), this village is where Luberon locals go to get away. With a setting like this, it’s surprising that modest Viens is not more developed. The panoramas are higher and more vast than around Roussillon (with some lavender fields), and the vegetation is more raw. Walk the streets of the old town (bigger than it first appears) and visit the few shops scattered about. Find the courtyard of the old château, then walk to the end of the village and enjoy grand views. This is how Gordes must have looked before it became chic.
Eating in Viens: Le Petit Jardin Café, just below the town’s only phone booth, fits perfectly in this unpretentious town. Come for a drink and rub shoulders with locals (notice the photos on the walls); or, better, have a meal and meet Madame and Monsieur Aubert. Dine in the small traditional interior, or outside on a garden terrace (€14 menu du jour on weekdays, more elaborate €23 menu on weekends, lunch served 12:00-14:00, closed Wed, tel. 04 90 75 20 05). A small grocery store and a bakery are a few blocks past the café, toward St. Martin de Castillon.
To reach the next village (Saignon), follow signs to St. Martin de Castillon, then turn right on D-900 toward Apt.
Sitting high atop a rock spur, this village looks down onto Apt, a city of only 11,500—which from here looks like a megalopolis after all these tiny villages. You can peek into the too-big-for-this-village Romanesque church (Notre-Dame de la Pitié) and admire its wood doors and tympanum, then follow Le Rocher signs through the village up to the “ship’s prow.” If you need to see it all, climb to the Le Rocher Bellevue for grand views over lavender fields (about three stories of stairs to the top). There’s a handful of cafés, a cushy hotel (described below), and a grocery store in the linear village’s center. Parking is best just above the town (hike or drive farther above town for sensational views over Saignon).
Sleeping and Eating in Saignon: $$$ Auberge du Presbytère*** houses some of the most appealing rooms I list in Provence, on one of the region’s most handsome little squares. This vine-strewn place is family-run, so expect kids underfoot. Three rooms come with private terraces, but all combine a homey feel with exquisite furnishings and bathrooms you can stretch out in (Db-€70-130, bigger Db-€155, Tb/Qb loft-€155, massive studio with terrace-€180). The restaurant is what draws most to Saignon. Enjoy lunch, fountainside on the square, or eat inside at dinner (plats from €20, menus €33-38, restaurant closed Wed; place de la Fontaine, tel. 04 90 74 11 50, fax 04 90 04 68 51, www.auberge-presbytere.com, reception@auberge-presbytere.com).
Le Bistrot du Vin features a talented young chef who offers an ever-changing menu of dishes made with local, seasonal ingredients and served in an appealing setting. Book ahead for dinner, as word has gotten out about this place (menus €22-27, closed Mon-Tue, tel. 04 90 71 30 79).
Buoux (pronounced “by-oox”), a way-off-the-beaten-path village, is home to two memorable restaurants and Provence’s without-a-doubt best ruined castle. A trip to this far-flung corner rewards with rocky canyons, acres of lavender, and few tourists. Start early and climb to the castle before the heat rises, then have a long, well-earned lunch nearby. If you liked Les Baux but weren’t so fond of the crowds and don’t need an audioguide, you’ll love it here.
Buoux is south of Apt on D-113 between Saignon and Lourmarin. Ambitious travelers can combine a visit to Buoux with Lourmarin and Bonnieux.
The remains of this remote ridgetop castle are a playground for energetic lovers of crumbled ruins and grand views. You need good legs and stable shoes to navigate the steep, uneven footing.
Floating like a cloud above the valleys below, the fort is easy to miss—it blends with the limestone rock cliffs that dominate the landscape. The long, rocky outcrop has been inhabited since prehistoric times. In the Middle Ages, it was home to hundreds of residents and a powerful castle that controlled a vast area. Like Les Baux, the fort was destroyed in the 1500s during the wars of religion (it was a Protestant base) and again in the 1600s by a paranoid King Louis XIII (see sidebar on here).
Madame la Caretaker lives in the flowery house where you buy your ticket. Get the English map and start climbing. The map suggests a one-way route through the rocky ruins. You’ll start with what’s left of the village, then scramble around rock piles along the long outcrop to the castle remains, once home to hundreds of residents. You’ll also climb around the remains of homes, a church, cisterns, and medieval storage silos.
The unforgettable highlight of this castle is a three-story stone spiral staircase. Cut into the cliffs, it leads back down to the base (follow the faded white arrows as you leave the ruins). The staircase is steep and has no handrails and big steps, so be very careful—or return the way you came.
Cost and Hours: €4, open from sunrise to sunset, closed in bad weather, tel. 04 90 74 25 75.
Getting There: The fort is 10 minutes by car from the village of Buoux. To reach the fort from Apt and the north, drive through Buoux on D-113, pass L’Auberge de la Loube, drop down, and be on the lookout for small signs to Fort de Buoux (and L’Auberge des Seguins). Slow down and expect sharp turns. If coming from the south, follow signs to Apt, then L’Aubgere des Seguins and Fort de Buoux. You can use one of several dirt parking areas; you’ll find the closest lot after passing two others. Once parked, walk through the green gate and then about 15 minutes up a dirt road to the foot of the fort.
$$ L’Auberge des Seguins is a stone’s throw from the parking area for the fort. It’s a lush, though modest Shangri-la kind of place at the end of the valley, with confident young Amélie (and hound Jules) in charge. The rambling old farm is completely isolated and purposefully un-manicured—guests are encouraged to enjoy the natural beauty. The 28 rooms are monk-like simple, clean, and squirreled about the place: Some require a dirt path to reach, some are built into the rocky cliff, and most could use some work. Kids love it (there’s also a big pool, but it’s not heated). This place is a good value for unpicky types (half-pension with good dinner-€60/person, €40/person if you sleep in the cool dorm rooms, tel. 04 90 74 16 37, www.aubergedesseguins.com, aubergedesseguins@gmail.com). See also “Eating in Buoux,” next.
L’Auberge de la Loube (“Inn of the Wolf”) is up the road from the fort in Buoux village and delivers the ultimate in Provençal country-coziness. Plan to stay awhile and enjoy the superb cuisine and setting (indoors or out) and eccentric owner, Monsieur Leporati, who loves to sing while cooking. You’ll understand why it was one of Peter Mayle’s favorites—order the Provençal hors d’oeuvres for a true taste of the region. Call a day ahead to secure a table (allow €24 for lunch—more on Sun, €33 for dinner, cash only, reasonable wine list, closed Sun eve and all day Mon and Thu, tel. 04 90 74 19 58).
L’Auberge des Seguins (see “Sleeping in Buoux,” earlier) has a good restaurant and a small café with bar food and snacks. The choices are limited, but the produce is very fresh—manager Amélie brags that they only use the small refrigerator for ice cream (€10-15 lunch options, €25 dinner menu, indoor and outdoor seating, closed weekdays for lunch).
The southernmost Luberon village of Lourmarin has a good Friday market, a beautiful Renaissance château on its fringe, and an enchanting town center. Lourmarin sits on a level plane and feels strangely peaceful and happy, away from the more-visited villages in the heart of the Luberon. This self-assured and lovely town accommodates a healthy tourist demand without feeling overrun. It’s the best Luberon village to enjoy in the winter when other, better-known towns rattle about with few residents and little commercial activity.
Existentialist writer Albert Camus (The Stranger) lived in Lourmarin in the 1950s and is buried here, lending it a certain fame that persists today. Author Peter Mayle moved here not so long ago, adding to the village’s cachet...and now you’re here, too. Lourmarin makes a good base for touring the southern Luberon, Aix-en-Provence, and even Marseille and maybe Cassis. From here you can tour big cities, beaches, and castles, returning every night to the comfort of your village.
Getting There: Three buses per day link Lourmarin to Avignon (1.5 hours) and to Aix-en-Provence (1.25 hours, bus to Pertuis leaves 3/day, transfer there to bus bound for Aix-en-Provence, 2/hour).
The TI is located on place Henri Barthélémy (Mon-Sat 10:00-12:30 & 15:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 68 10 77). Free public WCs are located to the right as you exit the TI, halfway down the stairs on the left.
Theft Alert: Lourmarin has experienced a rash of break-ins at its parking lots. Park centrally, and leave nothing visible in your car.
Château de Lourmarin—This Renaissance château, impressive from the outside but with a skippable inside, looks across a grassy meadow at the village. If you tour the mildly interesting château, you’ll see a few well-furnished rooms, a nice kitchen, fine exterior galleries, and a slick double spiral staircase in stone.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily May-Sept 10:00-11:30 & 14:30-17:30, Oct-April until 16:00, decent English handout and posted explanations, tel. 04 90 68 15 23.
Market—Little Lourmarin erupts into a market frenzy every Friday until 13:00. Sleep here Thursday night and awake to the commotion, arrive early, or prepare for a good walk from your car.
Try to sleep here on a Thursday, so you can be here for Friday’s market. The good-value Villa St. Louis and Les Chambres de la Cordière sit across from each other at the very eastern end of the town center.
$$$ At Les Olivettes, Americans Joseph and Elizabeth DeLiso rent five apartments just a five-minute walk from the village center. The apartments are well-furnished and very comfortable, with kitchens, living rooms, CD players, and Internet access. They are rentable by the week or half-week in the off-season (1-bedroom unit-€430/3 nights, 2-bedroom unit-€842/3 nights, ask about special Rick Steves rates, credit cards OK, avenue Henri Bosco, tel. 04 90 68 03 52, www.olivettes.com, lourmarin@olivettes.com). As it’s tricky to find this place with a GPS, I recommend using the directions on their website.
$$ Villa St. Louis is a splendid place. It’s a cross between a museum, a grand old manor home, and a garage sale. The fun and slightly eccentric owner, Madame Bernadette, adds charm to a house packed with character. The dreamy backyard is ideal for a siesta (hammock provided) and picnics. The rooms are like Grandma’s, and there’s a common room with a fridge (Db-€65-75, includes breakfast, cash only, secure parking, loaner bikes, 35 rue de Henri Savournin, tel. 04 90 68 39 18, fax 04 90 68 10 07, www.villasaintlouis.com, villasaintlouis@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Les Chambres de la Cordière is a cool getaway. Owner Françoise’s goal is to make you feel at home. Six cozy rooms are tucked into one of the village’s oldest buildings (c. 1582), with a tiny courtyard and welcoming cats (Db-€65-75, Tb-€85, Qb-€100, includes breakfast; 4 rooms come with mini-kitchens—the 2 with full kitchens are usually rented only by the week for about €450, cash only, rue Albert Camus, tel. & fax 04 90 68 03 32, www.cordiere.com, cordiereluberon@aol.com).
All roads seem to converge on the postcard-perfect intersection near La Maison Café, where you can enjoy a light meal or snack inside or outside on their perched terrace. The following listings are within a block of this intersection.
Restaurant l’Antiquaire, with stylish decor, is the place to eat well in Lourmarin (indoor seating only, €32 menu, €40 bouillabaisse possible if ordered ahead, closed Mon, indoors only but air-con, a block up from La Maison Café on 9 rue du Grand Pré, tel. 04 90 68 17 29).
Le Bistrot de Lourmarin cooks up modern Provençal fare at fair prices in a welcoming, relaxed atmosphere (€15 plats, €28 menu, closed Sun and Thu, 2 avenue Philippe de Girard, tel. 04 90 68 29 74).
At La Recreation, across the street, owner Jean-Louis and his bright smile have been serving guests for 33 years. You’ll find a welcoming terrace and regional cuisine with vegetarian options (€16-20 plats, €26-35 menus, closed Wed except in summer, next to the TI on avenue Philippe de Girard, tel. 04 90 68 23 73).
Ideal for Dinner
Best Places to Lunch
