West Coast
This wild and dramatic region boasts some of the most beautiful coastal scenery in Puerto Rico. To the north lies Rincón, a resort town known for its stunning sunsets, excellent whale-watching during winter, and world-class surfing. Uninhabited and rugged Isla Mona is a wildlife refuge surrounded by coral reefs that draw divers, while bird-watchers flock to Boquerón Bird Refuge and the salt flats around Cabo Rojo. The village of La Parguera offers exciting boat trips to Bahía de Fosforescente, named for its bioluminescent waters. Moca, which lies inland, is a center for traditional lace production, Mayagüez has a fine plaza and zoo, and the town of San Germán draws visitors keen on colonial architectural gems.
1. San German
Puerto Rico’s second-oldest town, the “City of the Hills” dates from 1573, although most of its lovely colonial buildings were built during the 19th-century coffee boom. The quaint plazas and narrow streets that make up the historic center are lined with ornate mansions and centuries-old churches, including the Iglesia Porta Coeli, which houses the island’s pre-eminent religious museum. The town comes to life every July with its fiesta patronal – a festival honoring its patron saint (for further details see San Germán).
2. Rincon
This resort town occupies a triangular peninsula facing the Mona Passage. It is a great base in summer for snorkeling and diving, and in winter for whale-watching. Rincón is home to some of the Caribbean’s best surf breaks, and boasts great beaches, from wave-washed Playa María to reef-protected Playa Barrero, where colorful fishing boats line the sands. Accommodations range from simple campsites to chic boutique hotels, including the stately Hotel Horned Dorset Primavera; lively beach bars and eateries provide great perches from which to enjoy the sunsets.
3. Aguada
This historic town is claimed by locals to be the site where Christopher Columbus stepped ashore in 1493, although the residents of Aguadilla make a similar claim. In the center is the Iglesia San Francisco de Asís, with its lovely stained-glass windows, and the former train station, which is now home to the Museo de Aguada, an impressive history museum. If possible, time your visit for mid-November, when locals parade to honor Columbus’ arrival.
Museo de Aguada • Av Nativo Alers 7 • 787 868 6300 • open 8am–noon & 1–4pm Mon–Fri
4. Plaza Colon, Mayagüez
A large square in the center of Puerto Rico’s third-largest city, Plaza Colón is adorned with a magnificent Neo-Classical town hall and a clock tower, a large statue of Christopher Columbus, and various other bronze statues. Locals gather to play dominoes in the shade of jacaranda trees that burst into purple bloom in spring. The Teatro Yagüez, a block north, is worth a visit for its Neo-Classical pillars and Art Nouveau windows and dome.
Teatro Yagüez • Calle McKinley • 787 833 5195 • open 8am-4:30pm • guided tours by appointment
5. Horned Dorset Primavera
This hacienda-style hotel, which is part of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux chain and is named for a species of English sheep, stands over its own small beach at Rincón. You don’t have to stay in the luxurious accommodations here to enjoy the seafront restaurant, which serves gourmet cuisine and has a formal dress code. Visitors can also sign up for a yoga class in the open-air pavilion.
6. Moca
Moca is known as the center of mundillo lace production in Puerto Rico, where it is still made in a traditional manner at family workshops. The Museo del Mundillo explores this popular centuries-old art-form. The town hosts the Mundillo Festival each June and the main plaza honors the tradition with a Monument to the Lace Weaver.
Museo del Mundillo • Calle Barbosa 237 • 787 877 3815 • open 9am–1:30pm Tue–Fri, 9am–4pm Sat • adm • www.museodelmundillo.org
7. Whale-Watching
Humpback whales pass through the Mona Passage from December to March en route to and from warm-water mating and calving zones. Whale-watching trips depart Rincón, but the giant marine mammals can also be seen from shore. You can use the giant binoculars at El Faro lighthouse, where whales are often seen within 660 ft (200 m) of shore. There are few wildlife experiences as thrilling as this.El Faro • Area Recreativa del Faro, Rincón • open 8am–4pm
8. Dr. Juan A. Rivero Zoo
This spacious, imaginatively landscaped zoo delights visitors with its collection of more than 300 species of animals and birds from throughout the tropics. Elephants, rhinos, and zebras wander a safari park here, while lions, leopards, and Bengal tigers prowl their own arenas. An enclosure for chimpanzees, a children’s park, and camel rides help keep kids enthralled.Carretera 108, Mayagüez • 787 834 8110 • Open 8:30am–5pm Wed–Sun & holidays • Adm $13 for adults; $8 for children (5–11 years); $6.50 for seniors
9. Isla Mona
This uninhabited isle a few miles west of the main island is fringed by soaring cliffs. The wildlife refuge protects the nesting sites of boobies, tropicbirds, and other seabirds, as well as marine turtles. Iguanas crawl the sun-baked surface of the island, which is studded with cacti and riddled with caves. One of two trails leads past a former mine, and you can camp overnight with a permit. The crystal-clear waters and coral reefs guarantee good diving. Hire a boat in Rincón for the 2-hour trip here.
10. Cabo Rojo
“Red Cape,” named for its reddish cliffs, is topped by a hexagonal Neo-Classical lighthouse, Faro Los Morrillos, built here in 1881. The wave-battered cape shelters a rocky, white-sand beach that is backed by marshy salt flats offering great bird-watching opportunities. It is advisable to stay away from the unstable clifftops.
Humpback Whales
These marine mammals can grow to 50 ft (15 m) long and weigh up to 40 tons. Virtually the entire population of 12,000 North Atlantic residents migrate to warm Caribbean waters during the winter to mate and give birth. Humpbacks frequently “breach,” or throw their bodies out of the water and splash down on their backs. Males also sing during the mating season; the complex songs change every year. In summer, the creatures return north to feed on krill and small fish.
A Walk Around San German
Early Morning
Half a day is enough to see the main sights of this historically significant town. Begin on the east side of Plaza Santo Domingo with a trip to the Spanish-mission style Iglesia Porta Coeli. View the fascinating collection of carved wooden saints in the religious art museum housed here. Afterwards, admire some of the restored 19th-century gingerbread-style mansions in the streets around the plaza and on nearby Calle Dr. Santiago Veve and Calle Ramos. A highlight is Casa Morales, a quintessential Victorian design, on the northeast corner of the plaza.
Mid-Morning
Back in the plaza, walk west along Calle Ruiz Belvis to Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones, passing the alcaldía (town hall) en route. The tree-shaded plaza is graced with wrought-iron lampposts and has benches where you can relax, study the park’s topiary bushes, and take in the local life. Enter the Iglesia de San Germán de Auxerre, which dates from 1739 – be sure to note the church’s beautiful tromp l’oeil ceiling. Continue along Calle Dr. Santiago Veve to view the Casa Lola Rodríguez de Tió, home of patriot-poet Lola Rodríguez de Tió. After all the sightseeing, head to the popular Mike’s Steak House for its excellent chargrilled steaks and seafood, or to Chaparritas for some Mexican fare.
Wildlife-Viewing
1. Whale-Watching
The gargantuan humpback whales feed in the Northern Atlantic but migrate in winter to warm Caribbean waters to mate and give birth. February is the peak month for viewing them in the Mona Passage (for further details see Whale-Watching).
2. Boqueron Bird Refuge
This coastal wetland, part of the Bosque Estatal de Boquerón, is a superb place for spotting migratory waterfowl, wading birds, and hawks. Blinds (covered areas to disguise bird-watchers) enhance your experience.Carretera 301 Km 5.1, Boquerón • 787 851 7258 • Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sun
3. Bahia Bioluminiscente
This lagoon, not to be confused with a bay of the same name off Vieques, glows due to the microscopic organisms that emit light when disturbed. Glass-bottomed boat trips depart La Parguera (for further details see Snorkeling).
4. Manatees
These huge vegetarian marine mammals (for further details see Manatees) can be seen swimming in coastal lagoons around Boquerón and La Parguera. They are difficult to spot, so a sighting is a rare treat.
5. Mona Iguanas
The charcoal-brown Mona Iguana is endemic to Isla Mona. This egg-laying reptile is easily spotted as you walk the island’s trails.
6. Red-Footed Boobies
Isla Mona is a nesting site for red-footed boobies – large seabirds with salmon-colored feet. They nest on the ground and display relatively little fear of humans.
7. Marine Turtles
Several beaches on Isla Mona and Isla Magueyes are nesting sites for leatherback and other marine turtles. These endangered creatures face numerous threats, including marine pollution.
8. Tropical Agricultural Research Station
This facility on the University of Puerto Rico’s western campus occupies a former plantation. Self-guided trails lead through one of the world’s largest tropical botanical gardens.Av Pedro Albizu Campos 2200, Mayagüez • 787 831 3435 • Open 7am–noon & 1–5pm Mon–Fri
9. Dolphins
These charming and playful marine mammals (for further details see Dolphins) are a joy to see. They accompany fast-moving boats, leaping in and out of waves at the bow.
10. Corals
The waters around Isla Desecheo abound with colorful coral species, including brain corals, boulder corals, and 6-ft (2-m) tall sea fans. Sponges are a highlight here.
Outdoor Activities
1. Surfing
Rincón is the perfect place for surfing, and its mix of breaks makes it ideal for beginners or experts. Several outfitters rent boards and offer lessons for all levels.
2. Kayaking
Several hotels in Rincón, such as the Horned Dorset Primavera, provide one- and two-person sea kayaks for paddling around reef-protected ocean waters.
3. Jogging at Rincon
Rincón’s endlessly long beaches are ideal for casual runs, with the bonus of fantastic scenery and plenty of waterfront bars and restaurants along the way if you need to take a break.
4. Scuba Diving
Isla Desecheo is a favored spot for diving, although it requires an hour-long boat ride from Rincón. A B-29 bomber off Aguadilla is closer to shore and equally exciting (for further details see Scuba Diving).
5. Hiking on Isla Mona
This island has two hiking trails, which are good for viewing mona iguanas, red-footed boobies, and frigatebirds up close, as well as century-old mining equipment. Visit some of the island’s remote beaches between May and October to spot marine turtles nesting.
6. Bird-Watching at Las Salinas
The seasonal lagoons of the Las Salinas salt flats draw American oystercatchers and thousands of other waterfowl. There is a watchtower that provides good views.
7. Strolling Playa El Combate
Stretching for several miles, this slender beach is a pleasure to walk along, but you’ll want to avoid dusk when no-see-ums (for further details see Sand Fleas) are active.
8. Jet-Skiing at La Parguera
On weekends and holidays, locals flock to this coastal resort village, where jet-skis can be rented to buzz around the inshore lagoons.
9. Swimming at Bahia Bioluminiscente
Take a kayak trip and swim at night in Bahía de Bioluminiscente for a surreal experience. You’ll be amazed to see yourself glow with an eerie halo.
Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center • 787 899 7611 • Adm • www.paradisescubasnorkelingpr.com
10. Snorkeling
Marine life is abundant amid the colorful coral reefs off La Parguera. The underwater world is easily seen while snorkeling in shallow water close to shore.
Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center • 787 899 7611 • Adm • www.paradisescubasnorkelingpr.com
Best of the Rest
1. San Sebastian
This hill town is an important center of coffee production. The surrounding mountains feature mogotes (conical peaks) and a waterfall.
2. Hacienda El Jibarito
Learn about coffee production at this restored coffee finca (farm). Guided hikes and bird-watching excursions are also on offer.Carretera 445 Km 6.5, San Sebastián • 787 280 4040 • www.haciendaeljibarito.com
3. Corozo Salinas
Glistening mountains of salt and evaporating pools lie beside vast salt flats inland of Bahía Salinas. An educational center has displays.Las Salinas • 787 254 0115 • Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri
4. Playa El Combate
This slender beach is named for a battle in 1759 between two communities that fought for rights to adjacent salt flats. It gets crowded on weekends and holidays.
5. Boqueron
A former fishing village, Boquerón today derives its income as a laid-back resort. Enjoy its two pleasant beaches and the many street stalls selling oysters – a local specialty.
6. Aguadilla
This town’s gorgeous bay setting is best viewed from the seafront boulevard. A monument in Parque Colón stands where Christopher Columbus supposedly landed in 1493.
7. Bosque Estatal de Boqueron
This state preserve protects mangrove and dry tropical forest, and is replete with endemic wildlife. You can spot birds at the Boquerón Bird Refuge or hire boats in La Parguera to explore the lagoons.
8. La Parguera
Set in a bay studded with mangrove-fringed cays, this bustling resort is popular for its bars and restaurants, and trips to Bahía de Bioluminiscente.
9. Sabana Grande
This town, famous for its thatch-palm baskets and other goods, hosts the Petate Festival in December. The Sanctuary for the Virgin Mary here is a pilgrimage site.
10. Isla Magueyes
Boat trips from La Parguera drop you on this island, where iguanas are easily spotted. The dive sites here are frequented by sharks.
