Farmhouse Chive Cheddar at 3 months
In contrast to the recipes in chapter 2, those in this and the following chapter assume a working familiarity with the basic terms and techniques of cheese making. The cheeses in this chapter will use techniques not found in chapter 2, including cooking curds, stretching curds, working with more complex flavor- and aroma-enhancing cultures, cheddaring, and waxing. If you are still something of a novice, be sure to read through a new recipe carefully and review any unfamiliar terms and techniques—they’re all explained in detail in chapter 1, particularly in the “Processes and Techniques” section.
If you are an experienced cheese maker, you know this, but bear with me—it’s important! Before you begin, read through the recipe and assemble your equipment and supplies. Sterilize any item that will come in contact with the milk, other ingredients, the curds, or the aging cheese—or at least clean it very well in very hot water. Always use only nonchlorinated water and noniodized salt in your cheeses and brines. Avoid homogenized milk whenever possible, and never use ultra-pasteurized milks and creams or those with any additives or thickeners.
Stretched-curd cheeses (also known as pasta filata cheeses) are a category of semisoft, hand-shaped cheeses made primarily from cow’s, goat’s, water buffalo’s, and sheep’s milk and including both fresh and aged types from a variety of traditions. The notable cornerstones mozzarella, burrata, Provolone, Scamorza, and Caciocavallo come from Italy, though Mexico (queso Oaxaca), Greece (Kasseri), and the Middle East (string cheese) produce tasty members of this family. The fresh varieties, like mozzarella, are the best melters due to their high moisture content. These cheeses’ texture is smooth, stretchy, and pleasantly chewy, and their flavor is milky and mild. Lipase is added to some varieties when a more robust flavor is desired. In the cheese making process, the curds are formed and brought to the proper acidity for elasticity, then melted in very hot water or whey, stretched and worked to create the desired silky texture, shaped, and plunged into a cold bath to firm up. The fresh cheeses are then transferred to a brine for a period of time before vacuum-sealing or packing in water. Some, such as Scamorza, Provolone, and some styles of string cheese, are smoked with aromatic woods and hung or waxed to age. Depending on the desired finished flavor, stretched-curd cheeses are aged in the range of one day for fresh cheeses; two to four months for aged cheeses; and six to twelve months for grating-quality cheeses. In every beginning cheese making class I’ve taught, after students have made a few fresh cheeses, they ask to make mozzarella—soft, pliable, and fun. What I try to tell my students is that you may not nail it the first time; it takes practice to become successful at the stretching and shaping of the curds.
One way to practice is to stretch and shape ready-made curds you’ve purchased from a reliable cheese retailer. One pound should be enough to play with. Follow the directions in any of the recipes given here to shape and complete a stretched-curd cheese. Though technically you won’t be “making” the cheese yet, this practice will help prepare you for success in making a stretched-curd cheese entirely from scratch. It may take two or three times of going through the process before you are completely successful, but once you are, there’s no stopping you.
Note that in order to make mozzarella and other stretched-curd cheeses that are stretchable, monitoring pH is essential, as the curd is best stretched in the pH range of 4.9 to 5.2. A pH meter is a very useful tool for making these cheeses, and I will call for its use in a number of the recipes here. You can use pH test strips when you first start to make stretched-curd cheeses. They are available from most cheese making suppliers; though they are a little fiddlier and less precise than the meter, they are less of an investment for a beginner curd stretcher. If you take this route, make sure you get strips that have a range higher than 5 pH.
Stretching curds into ribbons for Queso Oaxaca
MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s or goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 7 to 16 hours: 5½ to 6½ hours to make and cook the curds; about 1 hour to melt, stretch, and shape the curds; 20 minutes to 8 hours to brine
Mozzarella is, of course, the best-known cheese of the stretched-curd family. The word mozzarella is from the Italian mozzare, which means “to tear,” referencing the tearing of the stretched mozzarella to form balls and other shapes. Mozzarella is traditionally made with water buffalo’s milk; however, almost all of the mozzarella made in North America is made with cow’s milk. Freshly made mozzarella is moist and creamy, and very unlike processed mozzarella, which can be chewy and flavorless. This home-crafted formula is made with cow’s milk and cured in a whey-based brine. This recipe is time intensive yet rewarding; once you master it you will be able to branch out into any of the other stretched-curd cheeses with confidence. If you prefer to make a simpler mozzarella, try Junket Mozzarella. Note that for this recipe you will need heat-resistant neoprene or rubber gloves and a pH meter or pH strips.
1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s or goat’s milk
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
¾ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, slowly heat the milk to 95°F over low heat; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Cover and maintain 90°F to 95°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the diluted calcium chloride and gently whisk in. Let rest for 10 minutes. Add the diluted rennet and gently whisk in. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F to 95°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 30 minutes, maintaining at 90°F to 95°F. During this time the curds will firm up and release more whey. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 105°F over 30 minutes, gently stirring from time to time and frequently checking the temperature and adjusting the heat as needed. If you raise the temperature too quickly, the curds won’t coagulate or bind properly. Once 105°F is reached, remove from the heat and, using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 10 minutes around the edges of the pot and under the curds to move them around. Maintaining temperature, let the curds rest for another 15 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Line a colander with damp butter muslin, set it over another pot, and scoop the curds into it with a slotted spoon. Let drain for 15 minutes, or until the curds stop dripping whey. Reserve the whey.
5. Gently return the drained curds to the original pot and place it in a 102°F to 105°F water bath. Hold the water bath temperature for 2 hours. The curds will melt into each other, binding into a slab; turn the slab two times during this period, using a spatula.
6. When 2 hours have elapsed, begin testing the curds’ pH using a pH meter or pH strips. Check the pH every 30 minutes during this period; once it drops below 5.6, check it every 15 minutes, as it will fall rapidly after this point. Once the pH drops into the 4.9 to 5.2 range, the curds are ready to stretch.
7. Transfer the curds to a warm strainer, let drain for a couple of minutes, then transfer to a sterilized cutting board. Cut the curds into approximately 1-inch cubes and put them in a clean stainless steel bowl large enough to hold them with plenty of room to spare (the curds will be covered with hot liquid). In a clean pot, heat 4 quarts of water or of the reserved whey to 170°F to 180°F. Pour this over the curds to cover them completely.
8. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, work the submerged cubes of curd into one large ball, kneading and shaping it in the hot water. Once the curds are shaped into a firm ball, lift it out of the water and, working quickly, pull and stretch it into a long rope about 18 inches long. If the curd rope cools and becomes brittle, dip it into the hot water to make it warm and pliable again. Loop the rope back on itself, and then pull and stretch it again two or three times, just until the curd is shiny and smooth. (The process is something like stretching taffy.) Be careful not to overwork the curd, or you’ll toughen the cheese.
9. The curd is now ready for shaping. To shape into a ball, pinch off the amount you want to shape, stretching the surface of the ball to become tight and shiny; tuck the ends into the underside as though forming a ball of pizza dough. Turn the ball over in your hand and press the underside edges up into the center of the ball, into the palm of your hand. Immediately submerge the ball in a bowl of ice water to chill and firm up for 10 minutes.
10. While the cheese is chilling, prepare a light brine (see Brine Chart). You can use the reserved whey for the brine, supplementing water as needed to equal 3 quarts, dissolving 9 ounces of kosher salt into it, and chilling it to 50°F to 55°F. This results in a less salty finished cheese. For a saltier finished cheese, make 3 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Place the chilled cheese in the brine solution. If using the saturated brine, soak the cheese for 20 minutes, flipping it over a few times. If using the weaker whey brine, you can leave the cheese in the brine, refrigerated, for up to 8 hours, flipping the cheese over a few times. Either way, remove from the brine and use immediately, or place in a plastic food storage container, cover with water, and store refrigerated for up to 1 week.
MAKES 4 large pouches or 8 small pouches
Burrata is a soft stretched-curd pouch filled with pieces of mozzarella, a mascarpone-butter mixture, or ricotta. When made with mozzarella curds, the pouches are formed by stretching the melted curds into a slab or cup, filling it, then closing. Burrata is best served when freshly made and slightly warm. When the closed pouch is cut into, the filling oozes out.
1. Prepare Traditonal Mozzarella up to the point of stretching and shaping into a single smooth ball and chilling in ice water.
2. Prepare the filling of your choice:
MOZZARELLA FILLING: mozzarella scraps broken into small pieces and mixed with a small amount of cream to moisten
MASCARPONE FILLING: ¾ cup mascarpone mixed well with 1½ ounces soft unsalted butter and ¼ teaspoon salt, chilled until firm, then formed into 4 balls of filling and set aside on parchment paper and chilled until ready to use
RICOTTA FILLING: 1 cup ricotta (to be traditional, you can make your own whey ricotta while making the mozzarella for this recipe)
3. Divide the mozzarella into four 4-ounce portions, place the pieces in a bowl, and cover them with 170°F to 180°F water. When the mozzarella is heated through and pliable, about 5 minutes, pull the pieces out of the water and quickly stretch them into approximately 4-inch squares, either cupped in the palm of your hand or pressed into shape on a cutting board. If you like, as you form the squares you can drape them inside a 4-ounce stainless steel ladle to shape into pouches; dip the ladle in the hot water if needed to keep the mozzarella elastic.
4. Once a piece of mozzarella is stretched, fill it with 1½ ounces or so of filling and quickly pull 2 opposite flaps up and over the filling to completely enclose. Bring the other 2 flaps together and pinch closed, then dip the pouch into the hot water briefly to seal. Smooth the surface of the ball with the palm of your hand and place in an ice bath to cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Form and fill the other pouches. If you like, you can tie a chive around the closure before chilling.
5. Burrata are best if served immediately so that the filling is still soft. Otherwise, place in a container, cover with water, and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Queso Oaxaca is often referred to as Mexican mozzarella. It is made using mozzarella curds that are stretched out into thin flat ribbons and then shaped like a ball of yarn. I had the good fortune to taste the sublime version made by an extraordinary team of cheese makers at the Mozzarella Company in Dallas: warm ribbons of curd smothered in salt and lime juice. Divine!
To make queso Oaxaca in the style of the Mozzarella Company, make Traditional Mozzarella through to melting the curds in the hot whey. Pinch off palm-size pieces of the kneaded submerged ball of curds, then pull and stretch the hot pieces into 1-inch-wide ribbons about 2 feet long. Lay the thin ribbons out flat on a work surface in one continuous back-and-forth rope of curds—like ribbon candy. Generously salt the warm ribbons with kosher salt and leave it for 5 minutes. Then squeeze the juice of 1 lime over the top and gently rub the salt and lime juice into the ribbons. Leave for 10 minutes, then wind the ribbons into yarnlike balls about the size of your fist, crisscrossing the strands as the ball is formed and tucking in the end. Set the ball on the work surface to drain while you form the rest of the curds into balls (you’ll have 4 or 5 total). Make 2 quarts of light brine (see Brine Chart), cooled to 50°F to 55°F. Immerse the balls in the brine for 15 minutes, then remove and let drain for 30 minutes before wrapping in plastic wrap and refrigerating overnight, or for up to 10 days.
Bocconcini are rounded bite-size morsels of mozzarella. They are stored in either brine or whey, as mozzarella is, or marinated in olive oil with herbs and spices. To make bocconcini, follow the recipe for Traditional Mozzarella to the point when you have cut the curds into cubes and heated the whey, but have not poured the hot whey over the cubes. Place a handful of cubed curds into a skimmer or slotted spoon and, wearing heat-resistant gloves, dip the utensil into the hot whey for several seconds, melting the curds until they’re stretchable. Using a spoon or your fingers, and working quickly, knead the melted curds in the utensil, dipping it back into the hot whey as needed to keep the curds pliable. When the curds are kneaded into a firm ball, pull and stretch them into a small rope and fold them over onto themselves, repeating a few times until the ball of curds is smooth, pliable, and shiny. Don’t overwork the curds, or you’ll toughen the cheese.
Form the curds into a bite-size ball shape and place it in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes to chill and firm up. Repeat with the rest of the curds until all are stretched and shaped into balls. Make a brine with the hot whey by dissolving 6 ounces of kosher salt in it and adding water to make 2 quarts of brine, then chill it to 50°F to 55°F. Place the chilled cheese in the whey brine for 2 hours. Use immediately for best flavor, or store in the salted whey, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized but not homogenized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4½ hours to 1 week: 1½ hours to make the curds; 1 hour to stretch the curds and form balls; 2 hours to 1 week to brine
This interesting—and very easy—method for making mozzarella is from Paula Lambert, the proprietor of the Mozzarella Company in Dallas. It uses ingredients you can find in your local supermarket: pasteurized whole cow’s milk, distilled vinegar, and junket rennet tablets. Junket rennet tablets come in a box usually found in the pudding section of the supermarket, or they can be purchased online (see Resources); make sure you buy rennet tablets and not custard tablets, and that your milk is not homogenized. To simplify the curd making process, no pH reading is taken—the amount of vinegar called for has been carefully calculated to achieve the level of acidity needed to create stretchable curds. Note that for this recipe you will need heat-resistant neoprene or rubber gloves.
1 gallon pasteurized but not homogenized whole cow’s milk
7 tablespoons distilled vinegar (5 percent acidity)
4 tablets junket rennet dissolved in ½ cup cool nonchlorinated water
1½ teaspoons plus ¼ cup kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, slowly heat the milk to 88°F over low heat; this should take about 20 minutes. Stir in the vinegar using a whisk in an up-and-down motion to incorporate thoroughly. Add the dissolved rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute.
2. Slowly raise the temperature to 90°F over 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit, maintaining the temperature for 1 hour, until the curds form a solid mass of bonded small curds the consistency of soft tofu. A few small curds may be floating in the clear, yellow whey. Check for a clean break, and if there isn’t a clean break, check again in 15 minutes.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 10 minutes, maintaining them at 90°F. Over low heat, raise the temperature to 108°F over 15 minutes, gently stirring every 5 minutes and frequently checking the temperature and adjusting the heat as needed. If you raise the temperature too quickly, the curds won’t coagulate and bind properly. Once 108°F is reached, remove from the heat and, using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 10 minutes around the edges of the pot and under the curds to move them around and expel more whey. Let the curds rest for another 15 minutes. At this point the curds will be slightly below the surface of the whey. Gently press one of the curds between two fingers. It should feel springy and stretchable; if it doesn’t, leave the curds for 10 minutes and then test again.
4. Line a colander with damp butter muslin, set it over another pot, and scoop the curds into it with a slotted spoon. Let drain for 15 minutes, or until the whey has stopped dripping and the curds are compacted together. Reserve the whey.
5. Add the 1½ teaspoons of salt to the whey and stir to dissolve. Slowly heat the whey over medium-low heat to 175°F to 180°F; this should take about 30 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, wrap the muslin over the curds and place the packet on a cutting board. Flatten the curds slightly and let sit for 20 minutes. Open the muslin and cut the slab of curds into ½-inch strips or chunks.
7. Place a handful of curd strips or chunks in a skimmer or slotted spoon and, wearing heat-resistant gloves, dip the utensil into the hot whey for several seconds, melting the curds until stretchable. Using a spoon or your fingers, and working quickly, knead the melted curds in the utensil, dipping it back into the hot whey as needed to keep the curds pliable. When the curds are kneaded into a firm ball, pull and stretch them into a small rope and fold them over onto themselves, repeating a few times until the ball of curds is smooth, pliable, and shiny. Don’t overwork the curds, or you’ll toughen the cheese. Shape the curds into a ball and place it in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes to chill and firm up. Repeat the melting, kneading, stretching, shaping, and chilling with the remaining curd strips.
8. Make a light brine by dissolving the ¼ cup of kosher salt in the hot whey, then chill it to 50°F to 55°F. Place the chilled cheese in the brine for 2 hours. Use immediately for best flavor, or store in the salted whey, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
Paula Lambert’s Mozzarella Company in Dallas, Texas, is legendary in the artisan cheese world. Inspired by a time living in Perugia, Italy, Paula returned home to Texas to pursue a business making handmade pasta. After learning that another pasta company was launching in Dallas, she opted to shift her vision to a different passion: beautiful, hand-crafted Italian-style cheeses, especially the company’s namesake. Paula opened the Mozzarella Company in 1982. Many pounds of curds and scores of awards later, all of the Mozzarella Company cheeses are still hand stretched and shaped by Paula’s amazing family of cheese makers, many of whom have been with her for more than twenty years. The Mozzarella Company’s repertoire of cheeses expands in concert with Paula’s wide travels and keen curiosity, even as the company continues to produce some of the finest-quality fresh and aged cheeses available in the United States.
MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized low-fat (1 percent) or reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 6½ to 10 hours: 4 hours to make and cook the curds; 2 hours to melt and stretch the curds and form braids; 15 minutes to 4 hours to brine
String cheese is a mild cheese made from low-moisture curds that are stretched repeatedly to become stringy. It is a traditional cheese of Syria and Armenia, where it’s typically shaped into a braid, though it’s also a popular snack cheese with kids in the States. This recipe has many similarities to the Traditional Mozzarella recipe. Note you will need a pH meter or pH strips for testing acidity and heatproof neoprene or rubber gloves for handling the hot curds.
1 gallon pasteurized low-fat (1 percent) or reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
¾ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) for brining
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, slowly heat the milk to 95°F; this should take about 25 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F to 95°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the diluted calcium chloride and gently whisk in. Let rest for 10 minutes. Add the diluted rennet and gently whisk in. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F to 95°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 30 minutes, maintaining a 90°F to 95°F temperature. During this time the curds will firm up and release more whey. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 105°F over 30 minutes, gently stirring and frequently checking the temperature and adjusting the heat as needed. If you raise the temperature too quickly, the curds won’t coagulate and bind properly. Once 105°F is reached, remove from the heat and, using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 10 minutes around the edges of the pot and under the curds to move them around. Maintaining temperature, let the curds rest for another 15 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Using a skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the curds to a colander or strainer that will fit over the same pot, reserving 5 inches of whey in the pot. Place the colander of curds over the pot. Over low heat, heat the whey in the pot to 102°F to 105°F over the course of 10 minutes. Cover the curds in the colander with the pot lid while the whey is heating; more whey will drain into the pot below. When the whey is at temperature, remove from the heat and hold at 102°F to 105°F for 2 hours. The curds will melt into each other, binding into a slab; turn the slab two times during this period, using a spatula.
5. When 2 hours have elapsed, begin testing the pH of the curds with a pH meter or pH strips every 30 minutes. Once the pH drops below 5.6, begin checking every 15 minutes. Once the pH drops into the 4.9 to 5.2 range, the curds are ready to stretch.
6. Transfer the curds to a cutting board. Cut the curds into approximately ½-inch cubes and put them in a clean stainless steel bowl large enough to hold them with plenty of room to spare (the curds will be covered with hot liquid). In a clean pot, heat 4 quarts of water or of the reserved whey to 170°F to 180°F. Pour this over the curds to cover them completely.
7. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, work the submerged cubes of curd into one large ball, kneading and shaping it in the hot water. Once the curds are shaped into a firm ball, lift it out of the water and, working quickly, pull and stretch it into an 8-inch-long rope. If the curd cools and becomes brittle, dip it into the hot water to make it warm and pliable again.
8. Working lengthwise along the rope, pull off 1-inch sections and, working quickly, pull and stretch the lengths into 1-foot-long, 1-inch-thick ropes, then fold them over onto themselves two or three times, stretching each time. The more the strips are stretched, the stringier the cheese will be. Place the stretched lengths on a cutting board.
9. Using kitchen scissors or a knife, cut the lengths into 6- to 8-inch-long pieces. In groups of 3, twist them together to look like a braid. Once they are formed, immediately place the pieces in a bowl of ice water for 5 minutes to chill and firm up.
10. Make a light brine (see Brine Chart) by dissolving 6 ounces of kosher salt into all of the whey, adding water as needed to make 2 quarts and chilling it to 50°F to 55°F. This light brine results in a less salty finished cheese. For a saltier finished cheese, make 2 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill it to 50°F to 55°F. Place the chilled cheese in the brine solution. If using the saturated brine, soak the cheese for 10 to 15 minutes; if using the weaker whey brine, you can leave the cheese in the brine, refrigerated, for up to 4 hours. Flip the cheese over a few times whether using the saturated brine or the whey brine. Remove from the brine and use immediately, or wrap in plastic wrap and store refrigerated for up to 5 days, or vacuum-seal and refrigerate for up to 1 month.
Similar to Finland’s juustoleipa and comparable in texture to string cheese, this firm, cooked cheese is shaped into a square, then toasted in a broiler or wood-fired oven, giving it the look of bread, hence the name. I love cooking in cast iron, so this version uses a 10-inch cast-iron grill pan in which the cheese is cooked and can be presented. You can also use other shapes of pans that are cast iron and have a ribbed-bottom surface. The cheese is cooked to melt and develop a thin golden crust from the fat that’s brought to the surface as the slab of curds heats up. It is served with bread as a snack or warmed for breakfast.
To make bread cheese, make Braided String Cheese up to the point where the cut curds are melting in the bowl of hot water. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, work the melted curds into a slab big enough to fill your pan. Fold the slab over onto itself lengthwise, then stretch it out again to the size of the pan. Repeat two more times, discarding any whey that is expelled in the stretching. Preheat the griddle pan over medium-high heat. Place the slab into the heated pan and cook to melt slightly and form a golden crust on the bottom of the cheese. Using a spatula, flip it over and brown the other side for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the cheese cool slightly in the pan. Remove from the pan and cut into slices and serve while still warm. Bread cheese can be vacuum-sealed or wrapped tightly in foil and refrigerated for up to 3 months. To serve, reheat it briefly in a 350°F oven or under the broiler.
VARIATION
If you are in a hurry to make this cheese, you can use ready-made low-moisture mozzarella or string cheese. Cut it into small cubes and fill the cast-iron skillet with them—don’t preheat the skillet. Proceed with the cooking process as above.
MAKES Two 1-pound cheeses
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized goat’s milk, pasteurized half-and-half
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 months: 6½ hours to make the cheese; 6 to 7 hours to press; 2½ days to drain; 2 to 6 months to age
Kasseri is a firm Greek cheese that’s often compared to Provolone, another pressed cheese in this family. Its curds are pressed twice: once in slab form, after which they are milled and cut into pieces, and then in a mold for final shaping before aging. It is traditionally made from a combination of goat’s and sheep’s milks and aged for at least three months and sometimes up to a year. Kasseri made in the United States is often made with cow’s milk, sometimes partially skimmed. This recipe is made with a blend of cow’s and goat’s milks and half-and-half, with a small amount of mild lipase to add a rich flavor reminiscent of sheep’s milk. Remember to avoid using ultra-pasteurized milks or creams or those with any additives or thickeners. Note that for this recipe you will need heat-resistant neoprene or rubber gloves.
5 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk
2 quarts pasteurized goat’s milk
1 quart pasteurized half-and-half
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
⅛ teaspoon mild lipase powder dissolved in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water 20 minutes before using
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water (omit if using all raw milk)
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1. Combine the milks and half-and-half in a 10-quart stockpot set in a 108°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 98°F over 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 98°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the dissolved lipase and gently whisk in. Let sit for 10 minutes. Add the diluted calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Let sit for 5 minutes. Add the diluted rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 98°F for 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Using a whisk, gently cut the curds into bean-size pieces and let sit undisturbed for 10 minutes, maintaining 98°F. This helps firm up the curds. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature of the water bath so that the milk comes to 104°F over 30 minutes. Gently stir from time to time and frequently check the temperature and adjust the heat as needed. If you raise the temperature too quickly, the curds won’t coagulate and bind properly. Once 104°F is reached, remove from the heat and, using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 10 minutes around the edges of the pot and under the curds to move them around. Maintaining temperature, let the curds rest for another 15 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Line a colander with damp butter muslin, set it over another pot, and scoop the curds into it with a slotted spoon. Let the curds drain for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they have stopped dripping.
5. Lift the cloth and curds out of the colander and place on a cutting board. Using your hands, compress the curds into a flat, rectangular shape and wrap the cloth around it to secure. Place the bundle of curds on a draining rack set over a tray, cover the bundle with another tray, and place a 3-pound weight on top. Press and let drain at room temperature for 6 to 7 hours or overnight at 50°F to 55°F.
6. Heat 3 quarts of water to 175°F. Open the bundle of curds and cut the slab into 1-inch slices. Place the slices in the pot of 175°F water. Let sit for 30 seconds or so to heat through, then, wearing heat-resistant gloves, check the curds for readiness by skimming a slice of curd out and pressing and kneading it with your fingers. Hold one end of the piece and let it stretch from its own weight, then pull on it to stretch it into a string. If this stretching happens easily, the curds are ready to be shaped. If the stretching does not happen easily, keep the curds in the hot water until they are easily stretchable.
7. Still wearing heat-resistant gloves, work the submerged slices of curd into a large ball, kneading and stretching until the ball is smooth. Lift the ball out of the water and, working quickly, press it into two 5-inch square or rectangular cheese molds. If the curds cool and become brittle while you are working them, dip the mass into the hot water to make it warm and pliable again.
8. Place the molds on a draining rack set over a pan and let the curds drain for 2 hours at room temperature, flipping the cheeses two or three times by taking them out of the molds, turning them over, and replacing them in the molds. Cover the draining pan and mold with a lid or kitchen towel to keep the cheeses warm and let drain for 12 hours at room temperature. This process will release more whey, which should be drained off periodically.
9. Remove the cheeses from their molds and place them on a cheese mat on a draining rack set over a pan. Rub the tops of the cheeses with salt and let them drain for 2 hours at room temperature. Flip the cheeses over and rub the unsalted tops. Let them drain for 24 hours at room temperature. Repeat the process one more time: salting, draining for 2 hours, salting, and draining for 24 hours.
10. Gently rinse the salt off the cheeses with cool water. Pat the cheeses dry with a paper towel, then place them on a cheese mat in a ripening box at 65°F and 85 percent relative humidity. Turn the cheeses daily for 1 week, wiping off any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution and wiping down the sides of the box. Flip the cheeses twice weekly thereafter. Age for 2 to 4 months. When aged to your taste, wrap the cheeses in foil and refrigerate for up to 2 more months.
MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s or goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 3 weeks to 12 months: 5½ to 6½ hours to make and cook the curds; 1 hour to melt, stretch, and form the curds; 2 to 24 hours to brine; 3 weeks to 12 months to hang and dry
Though it originated in southern Italy, Provolone is also made in several regions in the northern part of the country, where it enjoys DOC status (an Italian quality assurance label requiring that a food product be produced in a specific region). Sometimes smoked, this cheese is notable for its myriad shapes, ranging from sausage, pear, and melon shapes to shapes like long-necked bottles and jugs. The cheeses are almost always tied with twine in some way, which is done so the cheese may hang to dry or age. This formula is similar to mozzarella, with a few adjustments in temperatures and other nuances. Like mozzarella, this Provolone is cured in a whey-based brine; it is then hung to ripen. Note you’ll need a pH meter or pH strips and heat-resistant neoprene or rubber gloves to handle the hot curds.
1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s or goat’s milk
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon sharp lipase powder dissolved in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water 20 minutes before using
¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
¾ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, slowly heat the milk to 97°F over low heat; this should take about 25 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover, let sit, and maintain 97°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the diluted lipase and gently whisk in. Let rest for 10 minutes. Add the diluted calcium chloride and gently whisk in. Add the diluted rennet and gently whisk in. Cover and let sit, maintaining 97°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 30 minutes, maintaining 97°F. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 108°F over 35 minutes. Gently stir from time to time and frequently check the temperature and adjust the heat as needed. If you raise the temperature too quickly, the curds won’t coagulate and bind properly. Once 108°F is reached, remove from the heat and, using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 10 minutes around the edges of the pot and under the curds to move them around. Maintaining temperature, let the curds rest for another 15 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Using a skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the curds to a colander or strainer set over another pot and let them drain for 10 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping. Pour the whey from the original pot into the new pot and set it aside. Gently return the drained curds to the original pot and set it in a 112°F to 115°F water bath to bring the curds to 102°F to 105°F. Hold the temperature of the curds at 102°F to 105°F for 2 hours. The curds will melt into each other, binding into a slab; turn the slab two times during this period, using a spatula.
5. When 2 hours have elapsed, begin testing the pH of the curds with a pH meter or pH strips every 30 minutes. Once the pH drops below 5.6, begin checking every 15 minutes. Once the pH drops into the 4.9 to 5.2 range, the curds are ready to stretch.
6. Transfer the curds to a strainer, let drain for 10 minutes, then place on a cutting board. Cut the curds into 1-inch cubes and put them in a stainless steel bowl large enough to hold them with plenty of room to spare (the curds will be covered with hot liquid). In a clean pot, heat 4 quarts of water or of the reserved whey to 170°F to 180°F and pour it over the curds to cover completely.
7. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, work the submerged cubes of curd into one large ball, kneading and shaping it in the hot water. Once the curds are shaped into a firm ball, lift it out of the water and, working quickly, pull and stretch it into a 1-foot-long rope. If the curd rope cools and becomes brittle, dip it into the hot water to make it warm and pliable again. Loop the rope back on itself, and then pull and stretch it again two or three times, or until the curd is shiny and smooth. (The process is something like stretching taffy.) Be careful not to overwork the curd, or you’ll toughen the cheese.
8. Pinch off the amount of curd you want to shape. If shaping a ball, stretch the surface of the ball to become tight and shiny; tuck the ends into the underside as though forming a ball of pizza dough. Once the cheese is formed into the desired shape, immediately submerge it in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes to chill and firm up. Remove the shaped cheese or cheeses from the water and set aside to air-dry while making the brine.
9. To make a light brine, use all of the reserved whey, adding water as needed to equal 2 quarts, dissolve 6 ounces of kosher salt into it, and chill it to 50°F to 55°F. This results in a less salty finished cheese. For a saltier finished cheese, make 2 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart), and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Place the chilled cheese in the brine solution. If using the saturated brine, soak the cheese for 2 hours, flipping it over a few times. If using the weaker whey brine, you can leave the cheese in the brine, refrigerated, for up to 24 hours, flipping it over a few times. Remove from the brine and pat dry. Tie a length of twine around each cheese to hang.
10. Hang the cheeses for 3 weeks at 50°F to 55°F and at 80 to 85 percent humidity. Use immediately, or place in your refrigerator (at 40°F) for 2 to 3 months for a mild Provolone, or 3 to 12 months for a sharp Provolone. If you choose to smoke the Provolone, see Smoking instructions.
Scamorza is a stretched-curd cheese originating in Southern Italy and traditionally made with cow’s, sheep’s, or water buffalo’s milk and aged for only 2 to 3 days. It is a bit drier than mozzarella due to its 2 days of air-drying. Scamorza can be found in a number of different shapes, most often gourdlike or with a knob on top where the string is tied for the cheese to be hung and aged. The sizes range from 6 ounces to over 1 pound. Often smoked over local woods, the cheese’s exterior can range from light tan to dark brown. The smoking produces a nutty flavor that slightly permeates the cheese, making it very aromatic and flavorful. The cheese is typically eaten while young—within 1 week. However, the cheese can be waxed after smoking to preserve it for futher aging.
Here, I’m presenting a smoked version of Scamorza using mozzarella curds. Follow the recipe for Traditional Mozzarella through the point when the curds have been kneaded and stretched until shiny and smooth. See instructions on the smoking procedure. You’ll need a large bowl for an ice bath, light or saturated brine (see Brine Chart), 2-foot-long strands of raffia to tie around the neck of each shaped cheese, and wax for coating.
Pinch off the amount of cheese you want to shape. One of the traditional shapes looks like a small hourglass or peppermill, with a small knob at the top and a larger bulbous bottom. The top is shaped from one-third of the ball, with the bottom being the larger portion.
While the curds are malleable, place the ball of hot stretched curds into the palm of your hand. Using your thumb and forefinger, gently squeeze the ball to form a 1½-inch-diameter neck about one-third down from the top, rotating while shaping. Then put the cheese into an ice bath for 1 hour to firm up the shape. Drain, then wrap the neck with raffia, leaving a tail to hang the cheese, as is traditional.
Make a light brine: You can use all of the reserved whey for the brine, adding water to it as needed to equal 2 quarts, then dissolve 6 ounces of kosher salt into it, and chill it to 50°F to 55°F. This results in a less salty finished cheese. For a saltier finished cheese, make 2 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill it to 50°F to 55°F. Place the cheese in the light brine for 1 hour, or in the saturated brine for 20 minutes. Remove the cheese from the brine and air-dry for 2 days. You can stop at this point, or carry on to smoke the cheese as described. Wax coat the cheese by holding the tail of raffia and dipping the cheese into a deep pot of wax to fully cover it. Hang to air-dry and set up the wax. The cheese can be further preserved by vacuum-sealing, then refrigerating. It is ready to eat when waxed, or it can be aged.
Semisoft, Firm, and Hard Cheeses
This large group of cheeses encompasses a broad range of styles, including some of the most recognizable classics grounded in old-world traditions. Depending on the aging techniques and timelines used, the semisoft cheeses are pliable, whereas the firm and hard cheeses have a dense consistency. These complex flavored cheeses are made with cow’s, goat’s, or sheep’s milk or a combination of these using a variety of mesophilic and thermophilic cultures, as well as flavor-enhancing secondary cultures and enzymes. Semisoft cheeses have little or no rind and are not aged long: a few weeks to a few months. Traditional varieties include Bel Paese, Caerphilly, Colby, Fontina, Havarti, and Jarlsberg.
Firm or hard cheeses (including Beaufort, Cheddar, Gruyère, Gouda, Mimolette, Parmesan, Romano, and Alpine-style cheeses) typically develop a thin, slightly chewy natural rind and contain 50 percent moisture or less. Firm cheeses may be aged for a few months or longer. Depending on style and size, hard cheeses may be aged for several months to a year or more. This extended aging creates the salty and sweet complexity of flavors identified with this group of cheeses. For firm and hard cheeses, I generally recommend pressing them in a 2-gallon capacity cheese press for the best textural results. However, suggested cheese molds and weights are listed in the recipes.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 18 hours to 1 month: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 18 hours to press and ripen; 8 hours to brine; 12 hours to dry (optional); 1 month or longer to age (optional)
This recipe is from Mt. Mansfield Creamery in Morrisville, Vermont, and was one of the first cheeses made by co-owner and resident cheese maker Stan Biasini, a former chef. His aged raw-milk version of this dill Havarti is called Forerunner. (See the home-version recipe for another of Mt. Mansfield’s cheeses, their Alpine-Style Tomme.)
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
4 teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1 teaspoon dried dill
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 70°F; this should take about 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Cover and maintain 70°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Slowly raise the heat to 86°F over 7 to 8 minutes, then add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Gently stir the curds for 10 minutes, then let sit for 5 minutes. Ladle out about one-third of the whey (this should be about 2½ quarts) and add 3 cups of 130°F water. When the temperature of the curds and whey reaches 92°F to 94°F, add another 3 cups of 130°F water. Gently stir for 5 minutes, then add another 2 cups of 130°F water. Add the salt and stir to dissolve. Check the temperature and add 130°F water as needed to bring the curds and whey to about 97°F. Continue stirring until the curds feel springy in your hand when squeezed, about 20 minutes. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Gently stir in the dill.
4. Line an 8-inch tomme mold (with follower) with damp butter muslin and place it on a draining rack. Gently ladle the curds into the mold and press them in with your hands. Pull the cloth tight and smooth, removing any wrinkles. Fold the cloth tails over the curds, set the follower on top, and press at 8 pounds for 30 minutes.
5. Remove the cheese from the mold, peel away the cloth, flip the cheese over, and redress with the same cloth. Press again at 8 pounds, redressing every 30 minutes for up to 3 hours, or until the whey stops draining.
6. Leave the cheese in the mold without pressure for about 3 more hours before putting in the refrigerator for 12 hours or overnight. Remove the cheese from the mold. It is now ready to eat, or it can be aged for more intense flavor.
7. Make 2 quarts of saturated brine in a noncorrosive container with a lid (see Brine Chart), and chill it to 50°F to 55°F. Submerge the cheese in the brine and soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours or overnight.
8. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a rack for 12 hours, then age at 55°F and 85 percent humidity on a cheese mat set in a ripening box, flipping daily. Age for 1 month, or longer if desired, removing any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution.
MAKES Two 1-pound boules
MILK Pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 months: 3½ hours to make the cheese; 1½ to 2½ days to dry; 12 hours to brine; 2 to 6 months to age
Edam is a pressed cow’s milk cheese from the small Dutch town of the same name. The cheese is spherical in shape with a flattened bottom. Most are wax coated, though some have a simple thin natural rind. Rather than being pressed in a mold, this version is rolled and shaped in its draining sack, becoming more rustic in shape—similar to the ball-shaped Mimolette jeune boule, with a slightly flattened bottom and pinched top. It is then waxed to age. In keeping with the Mimolette influence, a fair amount of annatto is added to the curds to create a bright orange paste that deepens in color as the cheese ages beneath the waxed exterior.
2 gallons pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II or MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture
1 teaspoon liquid annatto coloring diluted in ⅓ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 88°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the annatto and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 88°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 92°F over 15 minutes. Gently and frequently stir to keep the curds from matting together. The curds will release more whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of small peanuts. Once 92°F is reached, remove from the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom. Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds and reserve the whey. Stir the curds continuously for 20 minutes, or until they are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand. Add just enough warm water (about 2 cups) to bring to 99°F, then maintain the temperature for 20 minutes. The curds will settle again.
4. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to catch the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let the curds drain for 5 minutes, then toss with 1 tablespoon of salt. Divide the curds into 2 portions, placing each portion on damp muslin and tying the corners of the muslin to create tight sacks around the curds. Shape the curds into balls within the muslin and hang to let drain for 30 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping.
5. Place the reserved whey in the cheese pot and heat over medium heat to 122°F. Turn off the heat. Take the boules of curds out of the cloth and submerge them in the warm whey for 20 minutes, maintaining the temperature. Turn the boules a few times to ensure even heating. Redress the boules in their cloth sacks, then hang to let drain and air-dry at room temperature for 6 hours.
6. Make 2 quarts of medium brine (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container with a lid and cool to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheeses from the cloth. Place in the brine, cover, and soak overnight at 50°F to 55°F.
7. Remove the cheeses from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a cheese mat for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.
8. Wax the cheese using liquid wax and then cheese wax. Ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 2 to 3 months, flipping the cheese daily for even ripening. Age 6 months for optimum flavor, maintaining 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity.
MAKES One 1½-pound cheese or two 12-ounce cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 months or longer: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 8 hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 1 to 2 days to dry; 2 to 6 months or longer to age
Though Fontina is made in a number of countries, true Fontina hails from Fontina Val d’Aosta in northern Italy. It is a natural rind cow’s milk cheese without a wax coating. When made in the style of Fontina Val d’Aosta, the cheese is pressed, then dry rubbed or brined, then washed, brushed, and oiled as part of the ripening process. The young version, identified as Fontinella, is aged for two months and is quite delightful. If you make two smaller cheeses, you can try one at the younger age and one more mature.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II or MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon mild lipase powder diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water 20 minutes before using
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 88°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the lipase and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 88°F for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 88°F, cut the curds into pea-size pieces and stir for 10 minutes. Maintaining temperature, let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom of the pot.
4. Heat 1 quart of water to 145°F and maintain that temperature. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Ladle in enough hot water to bring the temperature to 102°F. Stir the curds continuously for 10 minutes, or until they are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand. The curds will be half their original size at this point. Again, ladle off enough whey to expose the curds.
5. Line an 8-inch tomme mold (with follower) or 2 fresh cheese molds with damp butter muslin and place on a draining rack. Pack the drained curds into the mold or molds. Pull the cloth up tight and smooth around the curds, cover with the tails of damp muslin (and the follower if using the tomme mold), and press at 5 pounds for 15 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cloth, flip the cheese over, and redress, then press at 10 to 20 pounds for 8 hours.
6. Make 2 quarts of medium-heavy brine (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container with a lid and cool to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold or molds and cloth. Place in the brine and soak at 50°F to 55°F, covered, for 12 hours, flipping a few times during that time.
7. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a cheese mat for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.
8. Place on a rack in a ripening box and ripen at 55°F to 60°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity for at least 2 months, flipping the cheese daily for even ripening. After 3 days, wipe the cheese with a simple brine solution (see Brine Chart), then repeat every 2 days for 1 month. Continue to wipe and flip twice a week for the duration of the ripening time: from 2 months to 6 months or longer, maintaining 55°F to 60°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity.
MAKES 1½ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILKS Blend of pasteurized cow’s and pasteurized goat’s milk; all pasteurized sheep’s milk
START TO FINISH 1 to 6 months: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 6 to 8 hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 1 to 2 days to dry; 1 to 6 months to age
Dating back to the thirteenth century, wax-coated Gouda is one of the most well-known cow’s milk cheeses and the one most often produced in Holland. Some amazing hand-crafted Gouda-style cheeses are also made in Ireland, Wales, and the United States. Gouda appeals to many palates with its mild flavor and smooth, elastic paste (the result of cooking the curds). The color of the wax indicates specific qualities in the cheese: red is plain Gouda, green indicates herbs have been added, yellow means cumin has been added, and black is used for aged Gouda. The cheese’s nutty flavor intensifies with age.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. Heat the milk in a 10-quart stockpot set in a 96°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 86°F over 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir for 5 minutes, then let sit for 5 more minutes.
4. Heat 2 quarts of water to 140°F and maintain that temperature. When the curds sink to the bottom of the pot, ladle off 2 cups of whey, then add enough 140°F water to bring the curds to 92°F (start with 2 cups). Gently stir for 10 minutes, then let the curds settle again.
5. Ladle off enough whey to expose the top of the curds, then add enough 140°F water to bring the curds to 98°F (start with 2 cups). Holding the curds at that temperature, gently stir for 20 minutes, or until the curds have shrunk to the size of small beans. Let the curds settle for 10 minutes; they will knit together in the bottom of the pot.
6. Line an 8-inch tomme mold (with follower) with damp butter muslin and place it on a draining rack. Warm a colander with hot water. Drain off the whey and transfer the knitted curds to the warm colander. Let drain for 5 minutes. Using your hands, break off 1-inch chunks of curd and distribute into the cloth-lined mold, filling the mold with all of the curds. Press the curds into the mold with your hands as you go. Pull the cloth up tight and smooth around the curds, cover with the tails of the cloth and the follower, and press at 10 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cloth, flip the cheese over, and redress, then press at 15 pounds for 6 to 8 hours.
7. Make 2 quarts of medium-heavy brine (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container with a lid and cool to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth. Place in the brine and soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours or overnight.
8. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a rack and air-dry at room temperature for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.
9. Place on a mat in a ripening box, cover loosely, and age at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 1 week, turning daily. Remove any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution.
10. Coat the cheese with wax and age at 55°F for 1 month and up to 6 months.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 weeks: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 6 to 8 hours to press; 24 hours to dry; 2 to 6 weeks to age
Jack cheese is an American original. History says this cheese was first made in Monterey, California, by David Jack, whose cheese was probably influenced by those brought through Mexico to California in the 1700s by Franciscan monks. My version takes its inspiration from the cheeses produced in the region that’s close to my heart, specifically Sonoma Cheese’s Sonoma Jack and Vella’s Original High Moisture Monterey Jack. These benchmark Jack cheeses are perfectly moist, having been ripened to a relatively young age, and they have a characteristic creamy yet firm paste and no developed rind. This same cheese can be aged longer, then rubbed with oil or coated, as in the Cocoa-Rubbed Dry Jack Cheese. My thanks to Lou Biaggi for his contributions to this recipe.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
2 tablespoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over 40 minutes, stiring continuously to keep the curds from matting together. They will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of dried beans. Maintain 102°F and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom. Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Stir continuously for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the curds are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand.
4. Place a colander over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes. then sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of the salt and mix thoroughly with your hands.
5. Draw the ends of the cloth together and twist to form a ball to help squeeze out the excess moisture. Roll the ball on a flat surface to release more whey. Tie off the top of the cloth sack, press with your hands to flatten slightly, and place on a cutting board sitting on top of a draining rack. Put a second cutting board on top of the flattened sack, place an 8-pound weight (such as a 1-gallon container filled with water) directly over the cheese, and press into a wheel at 75°F to 85°F for 6 hours for moist Jack or 8 hours for firmer Jack.
6. Remove the cheese from the sack and pat dry. Rub the entire surface with the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt and place the cheese back on the draining rack to air-dry. Dry at room temperature for 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch, flipping once.
7. Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 2 to 6 weeks, flipping daily. When the desired ripeness is reached, vacuum-seal or wrap well in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to eat. Once opened, this cheese will dry out and harden over time, creating a wonderful grating cheese.
By this point in your cheese making journey you’ve made a variety of really enjoyable tasty cheeses (and a few not so good), and you’ve identified one or two styles that really speak to you. So it’s time to seek out inspiration. Maybe you’ve just discovered a fabulous farmstead cheese at your local farmers’ market or cheese shop—one that knocks your socks off.
Now that you’re a dedicated, determined hobbyist cheese maker, equipped with enough knowledge and expertise to create a cheese or two of your own, go for it! On my website you will find detailed worksheets and guidelines for doing just that (www.artisancheesemakingathome.com).
MAKES 1 pound
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized heavy cream
START TO FINISH 2 or more months: 5 hours to make the cheese; about 10 hours to press; 24 hours to dry; 2 months or longer to age
This recipe for amazing Jack cheese, which is anything but just, hails from Brad Sinko, the cheese maker at the award-winning Beecher’s Handmade Cheese in Seattle, Washington. Brad makes his Just Jack by pressing it lightly, then rubbing it with lard or butter, cheesecloth bandaging it as one would a cheddar, and aging it for two months or longer.
1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk
1 cup pasteurized heavy cream
½ teaspoon Meso III powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
1 tablespoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
2 ounces butter or lard at room temperature
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk and cream over low heat to 89°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 89°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 89°F for 35 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Maintaining 86°F to 89°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let rest for 10 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 101°F over 35 minutes, stirring frequently to keep the curds from matting. They will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of dried beans. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds and continue to stir for 45 to 60 minutes, keeping the temperature between 98°F and 100°F. Ladle out most of the whey and add enough 50°F water to bring the curd temperature down to 79°F. Let rest at that temperature for 4 minutes.
4. Place a colander over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp cheesecloth and ladle the curds into it. Keep the curds broken up for 30 minutes by gently using your hands to keep the curds from knitting together, then sprinkle in the salt. Using your hands, toss the curds and salt together for 5 minutes.
5. Line a 5-inch tomme mold (with follower) with damp cheesecloth and place it on a draining rack. Ladle the curds into the mold, let drain for 10 minutes, then pull the cloth tight and smooth. Fold the cloth tails over the curds, place the follower on top, and press at 1 pound for at least 15 minutes. Remove from the mold, unwrap the cheesecloth, flip the cheese over, and redress, then press at 4 pounds for at least 10 hours. Remove the cheese from the mold and let it air-dry at 50°F to 55°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 24 hours. This will set up the surface for rind development.
6. Rub the cheese with the butter or lard, then bandage with cheesecloth and age at 55°F and at 65 to 75 percent humidity for at least 2 months, flipping it every other day. When the desired ripeness is reached, vacuum-seal or wrap well in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to eat. Opened, the cheese will dry out and harden over time, creating a wonderful grating cheese.
Profile: Beecher’s Handmade Cheese
The owner of Seattle’s Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, Kurt Beecher Dammeier, has a keen eye for both business and great-tasting cheese. In 2003 Kurt opened what he thought would be a small-scale cheese business in the well-trafficked Pike Place Market. Being a smart man, he knew he needed a qualified, passionate cheese maker to ensure the venture would be successful, so he recruited Brad Sinko, who had worked at his family’s creamery in Oregon. You’ll still find Brad at the flagship store, creating products like Beecher’s Flagship cheddars and Just Jack, which continue to garner recognition and awards. Kurt recently opened his second cheese making facility in the Flatiron District of Manhattan.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 4 months: less than 4 hours to make the cheese; 3 hours to press; 8 hours to dry; 5 days to dry salt or 8 hours to brine; 2 to 4 months to age
“Alpine style” refers to firm, pressed cow’s milk cheeses made seasonally in the French, Austrian, Swiss, and Italian Alps—Comté, Gruyère, Emmental, Beaufort, and Fontina, to name a few. Tomme, in today’s cheese making, refers to cheeses that are made in an old-world style, with rustic, textured rinds. Typically molded into wheels eight inches in diameter and five inches high, tommes are pressed and brined or dry salted to create a firm natural rind, then the cheese is aged. This tomme recipe is shared by cheese maker Stan Biasini of Mt. Mansfield Creamery in Morrisville, Vermont, where he makes very special small-batch raw-milk tommes.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon Thermo C powdered thermophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
1 tablespoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt, plus more for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 70°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter cultures over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 90°F. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds to the size of small peas. Let the curds rest for 5 minutes, then gently stir for 10 minutes. You may cut the curds again if they are not uniform in size. Slowly raise the temperature 1°F every 2 minutes, stirring continuously, until the curds have reached 95°F. Continuing to stir, raise the temperature a little faster—1°F every minute—until the temperature is 100°F. Holding this temperature, let the curds rest for about 5 minutes.
4. Ladle off the whey to about 1 inch above the curds. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes, or until the curds stop dripping whey.
5. Set an 8-inch tomme mold (with follower) on a draining rack. Place the sack of drained curds into the mold. Fold the cloth tails over the curds, set the follower on top, and press at 10 pounds for 15 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cloth, flip the cheese over, and redress. Press at 20 pounds for 15 minutes, then redress again. Continue pressing at 20 pounds for a total of 3 hours, redressing every 30 minutes.
6. Remove the cheese from the mold and let air-dry at room temperature for 8 hours or overnight. Rub the surface of the cheese with about 1 tablespoon of salt, set it on a draining rack, and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Refrigerate for 5 days, redampening the towel every few days to keep the rind from drying out, and flipping the cheese daily. Or instead of dry salting, you can make a near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and submerge the cheese in it for 8 hours, then pat dry and refrigerate.
7. Age at 50°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 2 to 4 months. If mold becomes noticeable, brush the cheese with a dedicated nailbrush or wipe with cheesecloth dampened in salt water. If the mold is persistent, you may run the cheese under trickling cold water, then let the rind air-dry, using a small fan to circulate the air, before storing again. (Too much washing of the rind may age the cheese too fast; it is better to dry-brush the rind every 5 to 7 days to remove unwanted mold.)
MAKES 1¾ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 months or longer: 3 hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 8 hours to dry; 2 months or longer to age
Gruyère is actually an entire family of cow’s milk cheeses, including the Alpine and Pyrenees Italian Asiago and Montasio, and the French Beaufort and Comté. The Swiss version is the one formally named Gruyère. This cheese is the classic fondue cheese, with a nutty flavor that gets sweeter as it ages. Cheeses made in the Gruyère style are also hand-crafted in the United States. These firm, pressed cheeses, some of which have small holes, or eyes, are intended to be ripened over long periods of time—anywhere from 2 months to 2 years or more.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Thermo C powdered thermophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 100°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 90°F over 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ¼-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Over low heat, raise the temperature slowly to 122°F over 1 hour. Remove from the heat and gently stir for 15 minutes. The curds will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts. Let the curds rest for 20 minutes. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds.
4. Line an 8-inch tomme mold (with follower) with damp cheesecloth and place on a draining rack. Gently ladle the curds into the mold and let drain for 5 minutes. Gently press with your hand to compact the curds. Pull the cheesecloth tight and smooth. Fold the cloth tails over the curds, place the follower on top, and press at 8 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cheesecloth, flip the cheese over, and redress, then press at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
5. Meanwhile, make 2 quarts of a near-saturated brine solution (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine at 50°F to 55°F to soak for 12 hours, flipping it over once. Remove from the brine and pat dry. Place on a drying rack, cover loosely with cheesecloth, and air-dry at room temperature for 8 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Flip the cheese over at least one time during the drying process.
6. Place the cheese in a ripening box, cover loosely, and ripen at 54°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping daily for 1 week. Rub with a simple brine solution (see Brine Chart) twice a week for 3 more weeks. The salt solution will decrease the amount of mold that grows on the surface. Age for 2 months or longer. Wrap and store in the refrigerator.
VARIATION
For an aged Gruyère that allows for desirable mold growth, do not rub the cheese with brine but rather use the dry-brushing process (see end of recipe for Alpine-Style Tomme) once a week for the duration of the aging.
This tea-smoking method also works for crottin, Brie, and Fontina. In a bowl, combine ½ cup of brown sugar, ½ cup of white rice, ¼ cup of black or oolong tea leaves, and 2 whole star anise pods. Line the bottom of a wok with foil, fitting it tightly along the interior. Put the tea mixture in the wok.
Bring the cheese to room temperature, pat it dry, and place it in a bamboo steamer basket or on a rack large enough to hold the cheese at least 2 inches above the tea mixture. Place a pan or pie tin of ice water slightly smaller in diameter than the smoking rack or steamer between the smoldering smoke source and the cheese. The water pan will act as a barrier to the heat and keep the cheese cool enough to absorb the smoke properly without melting. Prop up the water pan with wads of foil if needed.
Heat the wok over medium heat until the tea mixture begins to smoke. Cover the wok, reduce the heat to low, and smoke the cheese for 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and continue to smoke for another 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the cheese from the wok and set it aside to cool, then wrap and chill before serving. Discard the smoking ingredients. The smoked cheese can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
MAKES 1¾ pounds
MILKS Pasteurized whole and low-fat (1 percent) cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 months: 3½ hours to make the cheese; 8½ hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 2 days to dry; 2 to 6 months to age
Jarlsberg is the Norwegian cow’s milk member of the Swiss Emmental family of cheeses. Known as Alpine cheeses, these have the characteristic large eyes (holes) and sweet taste created by propionic bacteria in the milk. Propionibacterium shermanii produces the characteristic flavor compounds and also carbon dioxide, bubbles of which create the eyes. A low-salt environment allows these bacteria to work properly. Patterned after the Swiss Emmental, Jarlsberg is a pressed natural-rind cheese that is ripened for 6 months to 1 year. The development of Jarlsberg’s large eyes takes place when the cheese is ripened first in a cooler environment (50°F) for a specified period of time, then held in a warmer environment (65°F) for the remainder of ripening.
7 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk
1 quart pasteurized low-fat (1 percent) milk
½ teaspoon Thermo C powdered thermophilic starter culture
⅛ teaspoon propionic bacteria powder
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. Heat the milks in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 102°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 92°F over 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter and bacteria powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain the temperature, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining the temperature at 92°F for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ¼-inch pieces and stir for 20 minutes, then let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 3 cups of water to 140°F. Ladle out enough whey to expose the tops of the curds. Add enough 140°F water (about 1 to 2 cups) to bring the temperature to 100°F. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 108°F over 30 minutes, gently stirring the curds. When the curds reach 108°F, stop stirring and allow them to settle. Hold at this temperature for 20 minutes.
4. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes, then transfer the curds, cloth and all, to an 8-inch tomme mold. Pull the cheesecloth up around the curds, tight and smooth. Fold the cloth tails over the curds and set the follower on top. Press at 10 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cheesecloth, flip the cheese over, redress, then press at 15 pounds for 8 hours or overnight.
5. Meanwhile, make a near-saturated brine solution (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container with lid and chill at 50°F to 55°F.
6. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth. Place it in the brine, cover, and soak at 50°F to 55°F for 12 hours, flipping over once. Remove from the brine and pat dry. Place on a drying rack, cover loosely with cheesecloth, and air-dry at room temperature for 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Flip the cheese over at least two times during this time to even out the drying.
7. Coat with 2 to 3 layers of cheese wax.
8. Place the waxed cheese in an open ripening box or on a shelf to ripen at 50°F and 85 percent humidity for 2 weeks, flipping daily. After 2 weeks, continue the ripening at the warmer temperature of 65°F and 80 percent humidity for 4 to 6 weeks. The cheese may be consumed at this point or moved to the refrigerator to age for another 3 to 4 months.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILK Pasteurized sheep’s milk
START TO FINISH 11 days to 3 months: 3 to 4 hours to make the cheese; 9 hours to press; 6 to 8 hours to brine; 10 days to 3 months to age
Manchego originated in Spain, where it was traditionally made from sheep’s milk, though much of today’s Manchego is made from cow’s milk. Its rich, mellow flavor makes it one of the most popular Spanish cheeses in the United States. This version has saffron added to the milk for its floral flavor and golden color. In home-crafting this style of cheese, the pressed cheese is brined, then air-dried to age to the desired ripeness. The cheese can be rubbed with olive oil. Manchego is wonderful at five days (Manchego fresco), aged three months or longer (Manchego viejo), or aged in olive oil for more than a year (Manchego en aceite). For a plain Manchego, simply omit the saffron.
⅛ teaspoon saffron threads
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon mild lipase powder diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water (optional)
¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
⅓ cup olive oil
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, stir the saffron into the milk, then heat over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter cultures over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintin 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the lipase, if using (it lends a stronger flavor and aroma), gently whisking it in. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Cut the curds into rice-size pieces by gently stirring them with a stainless steel whisk. Switching to a rubber spatula, slowly stir around the edges of the pot, keeping the curds moving for about 30 minutes to release the whey and firm up the curds.
4. Over low heat, bring the curds to 104°F over 30 minutes, gently stirring with a rubber spatula to prevent the curds from matting into one mass. The whey will be a light greenish yellow color and only slightly cloudy. Turn off the heat when the temperature reaches 104°F and let the curds rest for 5 minutes. The curds will sink to the bottom. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds.
5. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 15 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping.
6. Gently transfer the sack of drained curds to an 8-inch tomme mold. Pull the cloth up tight and smooth around the curds, cover with the tails of cloth, and place the follower on top. Press at 15 pounds for 15 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap the cloth, flip the cheese over, and redress. Press again at 15 pounds for 15 minutes. Repeat this process one more time, then flip and redress the cheese and press at 30 pounds for 8 hours or overnight.
7. Make 3 quarts of medium-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) in a noncorrosive container with a lid and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth. Place it in the brine and soak at 50°F to 55°F for 6 to 8 hours. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry.
8. Place the cheese on a drying mat in an uncovered ripening box and age at 55°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 10 days to 3 months, flipping daily. Remove any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution. When the cheese has reached the desired ripeness, combine the paprika and olive oil and rub the cheese with this mixture. Wrap and store in the refrigerator.
MAKES 1¾ pounds
MILK Pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 7 months or more: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 13½ hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 2 to 3 days to dry; 7 months or more to age
Parmesan is probably the best-known and most imitated cheese in the world. The real deal is one of the world’s greatest cheeses: flaky, brittle, nutty, crunchy, and sharp. However, the identifier “parmesan” has become a generic term for many mediocre cheeses made outside of Italy. To be called Parmigiano-Reggiano, the cheese must come from only two designated areas of Italy, Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy, where it is made with skimmed milk, then pressed, brined, and aged for one to two years or more. In the United States, there are a few extraordinary examples of aged artisan cheeses inspired by Parmigiano-Reggiano. If you can be patient and allow your Parmesan to age to one year, you will be amazed at how delicious it is.
2 gallons pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
Olive oil for rubbing
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 104°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 94°F over 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain the temperature, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 94°F for 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Using a whisk, cut the curds into pea-size pieces and let sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 124°F over 1 hour, continuously stirring the curds to firm them up. Once 124°F has been reached, stop stirring and allow the curds to settle and mat together. Cover and maintain 124°F for 10 minutes.
4. Line a colander with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes, then transfer the curds, cloth and all, to a 5-inch tomme mold and let drain for 10 minutes. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, fold the tails of the cloth over the curds, and put the follower on top. Press at 10 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, flip it over, and redress, then press again at 10 pounds for 1 hour. Once again remove from the mold, flip, and redress the cheese, then press at 20 pounds for 12 hours.
5. Make 2 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 12 hours, flipping it over once during that time.
6. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a drying rack, cover with cheesecloth, and air-dry at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch, flipping each day.
7. Place on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping daily, for 2 weeks. Flip twice a week for the next month, then once a week for the duration of ripening. Remove any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution.
8. After 3 months of ripening, rub the surface with olive oil. Return the cheese to the ripening box and age for a total of 7 months, or until the desired ripeness is reached, flipping once a week and rubbing with olive oil once a month. Wrap and store in the refrigerator.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 5 months or more: 3½ hours to make the cheese; 13½ hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 2 days to dry; 5 months or more to age
Hailing from central Italy near Rome, Romano is a hard, salty cheese used mostly for grating. The most notable Romano is Pecorino Romano, which is made with sheep’s milk, though goat’s milk Caprino Romano is also widely acclaimed. This recipe calls for a blend of cow’s and goat’s milks, though you can make an all goat’s milk version if you prefer a sharper, tangier taste. Capalase lipase (goat lipase) powder is optional here for an even sharper taste. If you are using goat’s milk exclusively, add ⅛ teaspoon more rennet. By nature of being a hard, pressed cheese, Romano takes at least five months of ripening to acquire the desired flavor and texture. If you can be patient, let it age for a full year for a more pronounced flavor.
1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk
1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk
¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
⅛ teaspoon Capalase lipase powder dissolved in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water before using (optional)
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
Olive oil for rubbing
1. Heat the milks in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 100°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 90°F over 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the lipase, if using, and gently whisk in. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ¼-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 117°F over 40 to 50 minutes, continuously stirring the curds to firm them up. Once 117°F has been reached, stop stirring and allow the curds to settle. Cover and maintain 117°F for 30 minutes.
4. Line a colander with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes, then transfer the curds, cloth and all, to an 5-inch tomme mold. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, fold the tails of the cloth over the curds, and put the follower on top. Press at 10 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, flip it over, and redress, then press again at 10 pounds for 1 hour. Once again remove, flip, and redress the cheese, then press at 20 pounds for 12 hours.
5. Make 2 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 12 hours, flipping it over once during that time.
6. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a drying rack, cover with cheesecloth, and air-dry at room temperature for 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch, flipping each day.
7. Place the cheese on a cheese mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping daily for 2 weeks. Flip twice a week for the next month, then once a week for the duration of ripening. Remove any unwanted mold with cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution.
8. After 2 months of ripening, rub the surface with olive oil. Return the cheese to the ripening box and age for a total of 5 months, or until the desired ripeness is reached, flipping once a week and rubbing with olive oil once a month. Wrap and store in the refrigerator.
Asiago Pepato at 4 weeks
MAKES Two 1-pound wheels
MILKS Pasteurized whole and reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 3 weeks for Asiago Pressato or 2 months to 1 year for aged Asiago: about 4 hours to make the cheese; 16 hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 8 hours to dry; 3 weeks to 1 year to age
Asiago is a firm pressed cheese from the Veneto region of Italy made with either all cow’s milk or a blend of cow’s and goat’s milks. This version has peppercorns in the center, adding a nice bite to the finished cheese. Asiago has a natural rind developed by first brining the cheese, then air-drying it to set up the rind, and finally aging the cheese to the desired flavor. When aged for three weeks, the cheese is known as Asiago Pressato; when aged longer (up to one or two years), it has a hard, gratable texture and is called stravecchio. This recipe makes two smaller wheels rather than one larger cheese, allowing you to enjoy one in its young, Pressato stage while you age the other further. This gives you the chance to make the Asiago once and savor it twice!
6 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk
2 quarts pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
1½ teaspoons black or green peppercorns (omit if making plain Asiago)
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milks over low heat to 92°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 92°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 92°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 104°F over 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir for 15 minutes to release whey and shrink the curds to the size of peanuts. Over low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 118°F, stirring the curds to firm them up. Once 118°F has been reached, stop stirring and allow the curds to settle. Cover and maintain 118°F for 20 minutes.
4. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Line two 4⅝-inch-wide Italian draining baskets with damp cheesecloth and place them on a draining rack. Fill each mold with one-fourth of the curds and let drain for 5 minutes. Cover with the tails of the cheesecloth and gently press with your hand to compact the curds. Unwrap and sprinkle half of the peppercorns over each mold of compacted curds. Divide the remaining curds between the molds to cover the peppercorns and pack down using your hand.
5. Pull the cheesecloth up around the curds and fold it over to cover the tops. Place a follower on top of each draining basket and press at 8 pounds for 1 hour. Remove, flip, and redress the cheese, then press at 8 pounds for another 8 hours.
6. Make 3 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheeses from the molds and cloth and place them in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 12 hours, flipping them over once.
7. Remove the cheeses from the brine and pat dry. Place on a drying rack, cover loosely with cheesecloth, and air-dry at room temperature for 8 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch, flipping the cheeses at least one time during the drying process.
8. Place the cheeses on a mat in a ripening box with a lid. Cover loosely and ripen at 54°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping daily for 1 week. Brush with a simple brine (see Brine Chart), cooled to 50°F to 55°F, twice a week for the first 3 weeks of aging. For an aged version, continue the brushing process once a week for at least 2 months and up to 1 year.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to press; 2 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 4 months to age
Brick is a relatively new American original cheese, having been created in the late 1800s in Wisconsin. It is a firm cheese originally formed in a special brick-shaped mold. The curds were pressed with five-pound bricks as weights, then washed with brine numerous times while ripening. The lore is that the name brick came from both the use of bricks as weights and the cheese’s shape. You can replicate this shape and pressing method by creating a rectangular mold from a recycled food container and pressing with bricks. In this recipe the cheese is brined only once, then waxed and allowed to slowly ripen in cool storage.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 88°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 15 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 88°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 88°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 98°F over 45 minutes. Stir continuously to keep the curds from matting together; they will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts.
4. Once the curds are at 98°F, turn off the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 25 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
5. Line a strainer with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes, then transfer the curds, cloth and all, to an 8-inch tomme mold. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, cover the curds with the tails of cloth, set the follower on top, and press at 5 pounds for 15 minutes. Remove the cheese, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press again at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
6. Make 3 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 2 hours.
7. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry on a cheese mat at room temperature for about 24 hours to dry and set up the rind. Rub off any mold spots that might develop with a solution of salt and distilled vinegar.
8. Wax the cheese and age at 50°F and 85 percent humidity for up to 4 months, flipping the cheese once a week for even ripening.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 12½ hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 2 to 6 months to age
Caerphilly (pronounced kar-FILL-ee) is a Welsh classic that was made exclusively in and around Cardiff until the mid-1800s. When the demand became too great for Welsh producers, English creameries in Somerset began making the cheese. In recent times the classic has been resurrected, and today there are a few farmstead producers making world-class Caerphilly, including Gorwydd by cheese maker Todd Trethowan, and the Caerphilly-inspired Landaff cheese from New Hampshire’s Landaff Creamery. These cheeses are aged for only two to three months and are often affectionately likened to cheesecake, with their crumbly texture and lemony–sweet buttery flavor. In this recipe, ripening occurs through controlled mold development on the rind. In this case, mold is good!
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter cultures over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 95°F over 20 minutes. Stir continuously to keep the curds from matting together; they will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts.
4. Once the curds are at 95°F, turn off the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 45 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
5. Ladle enough whey from the pot to expose the tops of the curds. Line a strainer with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes.
6. Transfer the curds, cloth and all, to an 8-inch tomme mold. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, cover the curds with the tails of cloth, set the follower on top, and press at 8 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press again at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
7. Make 3 quarts of medium-heavy brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours.
8. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry on a cheese mat at room temperature for about 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Rub off any mold spots that might develop with a solution of salt and distilled vinegar.
9. Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping daily. After 10 to 14 days a whitish gray mold will appear. Once this occurs, flip the cheese twice a week until a crust is formed. Brush the surface twice a week at the same time as you flip the cheese to encourage mold growth. Brush with a wad of dry cheesecloth or a dedicated soft nailbrush dampened in simple brine (see Brine Chart) with the excess moisture removed. After 3 weeks from the beginning of ripening, the cheese will begin to soften under the crust. Consume at 2 months for a sharp flavor, or ripen longer—up to 6 months—for a more pungent flavor.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 weeks to 2 months: 3½ hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 6 weeks to 2 months to age
Like brick, Colby is an American classic. Colby is similar to classic cheddar but is made using the washed-curd method, which produces a softer texture and milder flavor. Its orange color is the result of annatto being added to the milk. The deep color develops as the cheese ripens. Colby is a good candidate for a smoked cheese.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon liquid annatto diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, letting the milk ripen for 1 hour. Add the annatto and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, and then incorporate the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 104°F over 50 minutes. Stir continuously to keep the curds from matting together; they will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts.
4. Once the curds are at 104°F, turn off the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 15 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
5. Into a measuring cup, ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Replace the whey with the same amount of 104°F water. Gently stir for 2 minutes, then cover and let the curds rest for 10 minutes.
6. Line a strainer with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes.
7. Line a 5-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth and gently transfer the drained curds to the mold. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, cover the curds with the cloth tails, set the follower on top, and press at 5 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press again at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
8. Make 4 quarts of medium-heavy brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours.
9. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a cheese mat for about 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Rub off any mold spots that might develop with a solution of salt and distilled vinegar.
10. Wax the cheese and age at 50°F and 80 to 85 percent humidty for 6 weeks to 2 months, flipping the cheese once a week for even ripening.
Waxed Brew-Curds Cheddar at 6 weeks
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 6 weeks: about 5 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 1 to 2 days to dry; 4 to 6 weeks to age
This cheddar is really fun, allowing you to incorporating your favorite brew into the finished cheese. If you choose a light Belgian ale, the cheese will be lighter in color and mellower in flavor than if you use a dark ale or a stout. You can add annatto as well if you want an orange color.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon liquid annatto diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water (optional)
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
One 12-ounce bottle dark ale or stout at room temperature
1 tablespoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 98°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 88°F over 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the annatto, if using, and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, and then incorporate the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 88°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 88°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over 40 minutes. Stir continuously to keep the curds from matting together; they will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts.
4. Once the curds are at 102°F, turn off the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
5. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping. Reserve one-third of the whey and return it to the pot.
6. Return the whey in the pot to 102°F. Place the curds in a colander, set the colander over the pot, and cover. Carefully maintaining the 102°F temperature of the whey, wait 10 minutes for the curds to melt into a slab. Flip the slab of curds, and repeat every 15 minutes for 1 hour. The curds should maintain a 95°F to 100°F temperature from the heated whey below and continue to expel whey into the pot. After 1 hour, the curds will look shiny and white, like poached chicken.
7. Transfer the warm slab of curds to a cutting board and cut into 2 by ½-inch strips, like French fries. Place the warm strips in a bowl and cover completely with the brew. Soak for 45 minutes. Drain and discard the brew. Sprinkle the salt over the curds and gently toss to mix.
8. Line an 5-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth. Pack the drained curds into the mold, cover with the cloth tails, set the follower on top, and press at 8 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
9. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and pat dry. Air-dry on a cheese mat at room temperature for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.
10. Wax the cheese and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 4 to 6 weeks, flipping the cheese daily for even ripening.
VARIATION
For a natural-rind cheese rather than waxed, after air-drying wash the cheese with brew twice a week. Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping daily. After 10 to 14 days a whitish gray mold will appear. Continue flipping daily until a crust is formed. Brush the rind with a wad of dry cheesecloth or a dedicated soft nailbrush dampened in simple brine (see Brine Chart) with the excess moisture removed twice a week to encourage mold growth. After 3 weeks the cheese will begin to soften under the crust. Continue the process for 6 to 8 weeks, storing at 50°F to 55°F. Consume after 2 to 3 months.
MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 16 to 28 hours: 4 hours to make the curds; 12 to 24 hours to dry
Here’s the perfect snack food: squeaky curds. These were created for this book by Robyn Rosemon of the Beverage People. You can make them spicy like this version, or make them plain if you’d rather. You can even change up the flavors by tossing in dried herbs right after the curds drain.
1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk
⅛ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in 2 tablespoons cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in 2 tablespoons cool nonchlorinated water
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
1 (4-ounce) can diced jalapeños, drained
½ to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot set in a 98°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 88°F over 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in. Add the rennet and gently whisk in. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F to 88°F for 40 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let them rest for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over about 30 minutes, stirring to reduce the curds to the size of peanuts. Turn off the heat and maintain 102°F for 30 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes to prevent matting. Give the curds a texture test: squeeze a spoonful of curds in your fist; they should lump together. Now push them apart with your thumb; if they separate, you are ready to proceed. Let the curds settle for 15 minutes.
4. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping. Pour the whey back into the pot.
5. Return the whey in the pot to 102°F. Place the curds in a colander, set the colander over the pot, and cover. Carefully maintaining the 102°F temperature of the whey, wait 10 minutes for the curds to melt into a slab. Flip the slab of curds, and repeat every 15 minutes for 1 hour. The curds should maintain a 98°F to 100°F temperature from the heated whey below and continue to expel whey into the pot. After 1 hour, the curds will look shiny and white, like poached chicken.
6. Transfer the warm slab of curds to a cutting board and cut into 2 by ½-inch strips, like French fries. Place the warm strips in a bowl, add the 1 tablespoon of salt, and mix with your hands. Put the salted curds in a strainer over a bowl to dry, uncovered, for 12 to 24 hours at room temperature.
7. Place the curds in a large bowl. Gently mix in the ½ teaspoon of salt, the jalapeños, and the red pepper flakes. Store the curds in a resealable bag or vacuum-seal and refrigerate. They’ll keep for 1 to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
Farmhouse Chive Cheddar at 3 months
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILK Pasteurized whole goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 1 to 2 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 1 to 2 months to age
This farmhouse cheese is a beautiful, rustic cheddar made without using the traditional and slightly lengthier cheddaring process. Annatto and dried chives are added for color and flavor, and they create a lovely color complement to each other. If waxed and aged for only one month, the cheese will be creamy and moist. You can also use this method for making a simple farmhouse cheddar without chives or annatto. Goat’s milk or mixed milk can be used as well (reduce the amount of rennet if using goat’s milk).
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture
¼ teaspoon liquid annatto diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
2 teaspoons dried chives
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 96°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 86°F over 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, letting the milk ripen for 1 hour. Add the annatto and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, and then incorporate the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over 40 minutes. Turn off the heat, maintain temperature, and gently stir the curds for 20 minutes, or until they start to firm up. The curds will be the size of peanuts. Still maintaining 104°F, let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom. Ladle off enough whey to expose the top of the curds. Stir continuously for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the curds are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand.
4. Line a strainer with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes, then toss in 2 teaspoons of salt and the chives and mix thoroughly with your hands.
5. Line an 8-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth and gently transfer the drained curds to the lined mold. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, cover the curds with the cloth tails, set the follower on top, and press at 8 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, and press at 10 pounds for 12 hours.
6. Make 3 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cheesecloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours.
7. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry on a cheese mat at room temperature for about 24 hours, until the surface is dry to the touch. Rub off any mold spots that might develop with a solution of salt and distilled vinegar.
8. Wax the cheese and age at 50°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 1 to 2 months, flipping the cheese once a week for even ripening.
VARIATION
After air-drying, rub the cheese with butter or lard. Cloth bandage the cheese and store at 55°F to 60°F and 65 to 75 percent humidity, for 2 to 3 months, flipping weekly.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 3 months: 4 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 8 hours to soak; 1 to 2 days to dry; 2 to 3 months to age
What makes this cheddar Irish-style is its double hit of Irish whiskey. The milled curds are tossed with a splash of whiskey, then after pressing, the wheel is soaked in whiskey for eight hours before being air-dried, waxed, and aged.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
2 cups Irish whiskey at room temperature
1 tablespoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)
1. Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 98°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 88°F over 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 88°F, letting the milk ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 88°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 88°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over 40 minutes. Stir continuously to keep the curds from matting together; they will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of peanuts.
4. Once the curds are at 102°F, turn off the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
5. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 15 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping. Pour the whey back into the pot.
6. Return the whey in the pot to 102°F. Place the curds in a colander, set the colander over the pot, and cover. Carefully maintaining the 102°F temperature of the whey, wait 10 minutes for the curds to melt into a slab. Flip the slab of curds, and repeat every 15 minutes for 1 hour. The curds should maintain a 95°F to 100°F temperature from the heated whey below and will continue to expel whey into the pot. After an hour, the curds will look shiny and white, like poached chicken.
7. Transfer the warm slab of curds to a cutting board and cut into 2 by ½-inch strips, like French fries. Place the warm strips in a bowl and add ¼ cup of the whiskey and the salt. Gently toss with your hands to combine.
8. Line an 8-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth. Pack the drained curds into the mold, cover with the cloth tails, set the follower on top, and press at 10 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 15 pounds for 12 hours.
9. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth, place in a container, and cover with the remaining 1¾ cups of whiskey. Cover the container and place it in a 55°F environment for 8 hours, flipping the cheese once during that time.
10. Drain the cheese and pat dry. Discard the soaking whiskey. Place the cheese on a cheese mat and air-dry at room temperature for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.
11. Wax the cheese and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 2 to 3 months, flipping the cheese daily during the first week and twice a week thereafter for even ripening.
In double-milled cheddars the natural, white cheddar curds are broken or cut up and pressed twice. The cheddar goes through its initial cheddaring process where the curds are broken up before molding and pressing. The curds are then pressed, brined, and aged to a specified desired maturity, and then are broken apart or cut into pieces (milled) a second time. At this point the milled curds are flavored by tossing with any number of sweet or savory ingredients or by soaking in alcohol before being molded and pressed again. Once double-milled, the cheddar is further aged to assure that the milled curds bind together to form a cheddar wheel.
To make flavored Double-Milled Cheddar: This flavoring process can be applied to good quality store-bought white or orange cheddars (the same procedure applies).
Cut or shred the curds into irregular cubes or pieces of about ⅜ inch to ½ inch. Place them in a bowl and add the flavoring, gently but thoroughly mixing with your hands. As a general guide I suggest adding one-third as much by weight of a chunky additive (caramelized onions or dried cranberries, for example) as you have cheese. For herbs or spices, the proportion should be 1 part herb or spice to 6 parts cheese. Fill a cloth-lined cheddar mold or cheese press with the flavored cheese and press following steps 8 to 10 for Brew-Curds Cheddar.
To make stout or whisky cheddar, for every one pound of cheese you will use 10 to 12 ounces of brew or spirits, or enough to cover the milled curds. Soak the curds for 4 to 6 hours, then drain and fill your mold or press. Follow steps 8 to 10 for Brew-Curds Cheddar for pressing and finishing instructions.
Then wax and store at 50°F to 55°F and 75 percent humidity or vacuum-seal and refrigerate. Allow the new cheese to age for at least 2 weeks or up to a few months before consuming.
Embellished cheeses are made in an eclectic array of shapes and sizes using a variety of milks. They are sheltered in fragrant layers of dried aromatic herbs and spices; smeared with vegetable dust or paste or wood ash; bathed in flavored oils; or kissed by sweet-smelling smoke. Not only do the aromatic coverings impart flavor to the cheese, but they also provide protection from air and unwanted bacteria.
There is a wide variety of notable traditional coated or rubbed cheeses, including Corsican Fleur du Maquis, coated with a mixture of herbs and pepper; Italian Bigio, rubbed in wood ash; and Spanish Majorero Pimentón, rubbed with red pepper pimentón. Striking modern American examples include Andante’s Cadenza, coated with red wine pomace; Beehive Cheese Company’s Barely Buzzed, coated with coffee and lavender; Capriole’s Julianna, coated with herbs and spices; and Love Tree Farmstead’s Big Holmes, coated with rosemary and mint. As you build your skills as a cheese maker, you can use these and other embellished cheeses as inspirations to create your own special cheeses and rubs.
Marinated cheeses are typically fresh or brined cheeses that are flavored by being packed in herb- or spice-infused olive oil, nut oil, smoked olive oil, or a vinaigrette mixture. Marinating has been a method of preserving cheeses for hundreds of years, protecting the cheese from air, unwanted bacteria, and insects. Flavoring is an additional benefit from packing cheese in seasoned surroundings, and peppercorns, bay leaves, rosemary, sun-dried tomato pieces, or citrus peel all make delicious additions. Fresh or young goat cheeses do best with this method of flavoring. Examples of marinated cheese in this book include Cabécou and Fromage à la Huile.
Smoking also contributes excellent flavor to cheeses. See general instructions. In this book, you’ll find smoked variations for ricotta, Scamorza, Gruyère, Gorgonzola, chèvre, and Fromage à l’Huile.
Brin d’Amour at 4 weeks
MAKES 1 pound
MILKS Pasteurized goat’s milk, pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 1 to 2 months: 1 hour to make the cheese; 8 hours to ripen; about 6 to 10 hours to drain and ripen; 24 hours to dry; 1 to 2 months to age
Brin d’Amour is a famous soft, unpressed herb-encrusted cheese from Corsica. It’s a beauty, rolled in dried herbs, then decorated with peppercorns, juniper berries, and, sometimes, small red peppers. This lavishly embellished lady is typically made with sheep’s milk, though goat’s milk is sometimes used. My version uses a combination of cow’s and goat’s milks and a blend of aromatic dried herbs and spices. Two options for shaping—in a cloth sack or in a cheese mold—are offered. At the early stages of ripening, the cheese will be a bit runny, but as it ages it will become firmer and drier. My favorite source for the herbs and spices used here is Whole Spice (see Resources).
2 quarts pasteurized goat’s milk
2 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk
¼ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
⅛ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ teaspoons dried thyme
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
1½ teaspoons dried savory
1½ teaspoons herbes de Provence
3 tablespoons dried rosemary
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon whole coriander seeds
¼ teaspoon whole mixed peppercorns
¼ teaspoon whole juniper berries
2 teaspoons olive oil
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milks over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, and then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and maintain 72°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 8 hours, or until the curds form one large mass the consistency of thick yogurt and clear whey is floating around the sides of the pot. Check the curds for a clean break. If the cut edge is clean, the curds are ready.
3. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin. Gently cut ½-inch-thick slices of the curds using a ladle or skimmer and gently ladle the slices into the strainer. Gently toss the curds with 1 teaspoon of the salt, then tie the muslin into a draining sack and hang to let drain at room temperature for 6 to 10 hours, until the whey stops dripping. The longer the curds drain, the drier the finished cheese will be. Alternatively, you can drain the curds by hanging for 45 minutes, then moving the sack to a 4-inch Camembert mold without a bottom, placed on a draining rack. Drain and ripen in the mold for 6 to 10 hours, flipping the curds once during the draining process and sprinkling the remaining 1 teaspoon salt over the surface of the cheese.
4. If not using the mold for the final shape, transfer the sack to a clean work surface and roll the curds into a ball, then flatten slightly with your hands. Open the sack and sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon salt over the cheese and lightly rub it into the surface. Set the cheese on a draining rack at room temperature for 8 hours to allow the salt to be absorbed into the cheese and excess moisture to be released. Continue to air-dry for a total of 24 hours, or until the surface is dry.
5. Combine the herbs and spices in a small bowl. Pat the cheese dry of any moisture, then rub thoroughly with the olive oil. Spread a layer of the herb mixture on a sheet of parchment or waxed paper and roll the cheese in the mixture to coat, then gently press the herbs so they stick to the surface of the cheese. Reserve the unused herbs.
6. Cover the cheese with plastic wrap and place in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 80 to 85 percent humidity for 3 days. Remove the plastic wrap, coat with more herbs if needed, and place in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F for 27 more days. The cheese will be ready to eat at this point or can be aged for another month.
MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 10 or more months: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 6 to 8 hours to press; 32 hours to dry; 8 hours to brine; 2 to 10 months or longer to age
This is my version of Vella’s legendary Dry Jack, which I’ve kept as a staple in my kitchen for many years. This cheese begins its life as plain Jack cheese, then is aged to a certain degree of firmness, at which point it is rubbed with a cocoa-coffee-pepper mixture and allowed to age further. The oil-based coating protects the cheese from drying out too quickly and also imparts a signature flavor to the aged cheese, whether seven months old and sliceable or more aged and gratable. To assist in the release of moisture and the distribution of salt into the cheese, it is first rubbed with salt and air-dried a bit, then brined, dried again, and aged.
2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk
½ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
2 teaspoons instant espresso
1½ teaspoons finely ground black pepper
4½ teaspoons olive oil
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over 40 minutes, stirring continuously to keep the curds from matting together. The curds will release whey, firm up slightly, and shrink to the size of dried beans. Maintain 102°F and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Still holding the temperature, stir continuously for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the curds are matted and cling together when pressed in your hand.
5. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and ladle the curds into it Let drain for 5 minutes, then sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of salt and gently and thoroughly mix with your hands.
6. Draw the ends of the cloth together and twist to form a ball to help squeeze out the excess moisture. Roll the ball on a flat surface to release more whey. Tie off the top of the cloth sack, press it with your hands to flatten slightly, and place it on a cutting board sitting on top of a draining rack. Place a second cutting board on top of the flattened sack and set an 8-pound weight directly over the cheese. Press at 75°F to 85°F for 6 hours for moist Jack or 8 hours for drier Jack.
7. Remove the cheese from the sack and pat dry. Rub with 1 tablespoon of salt and place on a draining rack to air-dry for 8 hours.
8. Make 3 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Place the cheese in the brine and soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping it over once during that time. Remove from the brine, pat dry, and air-dry on a rack at room temperature for 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Flip once during this drying period.
9. Place the cheese on a cheese mat in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 1 week, flipping the cheese daily for even ripening.
10. Combine the cocoa, espresso, and pepper in a small bowl. Add the olive oil and stir to combine. Rub one-fourth of the cocoa mixture all over the cheese. Place the cheese on a rack so air circulates all around it, then continue to ripen at 50°F to 55°F overnight. Repeat the rubbing and air-drying process every day for 3 more days, then ripen the cheese at 60°F and 75 percent humidity for 2 months, flipping twice a week. Wrap in cheese paper and refrigerate until ready to eat—up to 10 months or, for a very rich, deep flavor, up to 2 years, if you can wait that long! Once opened, the cheese will dry out and harden as time goes on, creating a wonderful grating cheese.
Lavender Mist Chèvre
MAKES Six 4-ounce disks
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 11 days: ½ hour to make the cheese; 12 hours to ripen; 6 to 12 hours to drain; 4 hours to dry salt; 3 to 10 days to cure
This coated chèvre was inspired by a delightful cheese from Cypress Grove Chevre called Purple Haze, which is dusted with lavender buds and fennel pollen powder and eaten while young. You can adjust the herb ratio to your liking or use this method to create your own version of an herb-coated chèvre. My favorite source for these and other herbs and spices is Whole Spice (see Resources).
1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk
¼ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture
⅛ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
⅛ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon fennel pollen powder
¼ teaspoon ground lavender or lavender buds
1. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, and then whisk in the rennet in the same way. Cover and maintain 72°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 12 hours, or until the curds have formed one large mass the consistency of thick yogurt and clear whey is floating around the sides of the pot.
3. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into the strainer. Add ½ teaspoon of the salt and gently toss to combine. Tie the tails of the cloth to make a draining sack and hang to let drain at room temperature for 6 to 12 hours.
4. Remove the cheese from the cloth and shape it into six 4-ounce round disks. Sprinkle the remaining ½ teaspoon salt over the surface of each cheese and lightly rub it into the surface. Set the cheeses on a drying rack at room temperature for 4 hours to allow them to absorb the salt and release excess moisture.
5. Combine the fennel pollen and lavender in a small bowl. Pat the cheeses dry, then place them on a sheet of parchment or waxed paper and dust all sides with the herb mixture. Place the cheeses on a rack and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour, then wrap each cheese in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 days to allow the flavors of the rub to infuse the cheese and up to 10 days.
Honey-Rubbed Montasio at 2 months
MAKES 2 pounds
MILKS Pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk, pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 2½ months to 1 year: 4 hours to make the cheese; 8 to 12 hours to press; 12 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 2½ months to 1 year to age
Montasio is a rustic Alpine-style cheese from the Friuli–Venezia Giulia region of Italy. It is often made with a blend of milks, though I’ve tasted wonderful versions made only with goat’s milk. Montasio can have a natural rind or a coating of blended herbs and spices. For this version I recommend using Thermo C, a culture that is used in many Alpine cheeses; the blend of this culture contains some Lactobacillus helveticus bacteria, resulting in a nutty flavor profile. My version follows the old-world practice of draining the curds in a sack and then rolling and pressing the wrapped curds overnight before brining. This recipe is also a nod to the Mozzarella Company’s award-winning ancho-rubbed Montasio Festivo, and a chipotle rub is given as an option to the honey rub (see Variation). Note: If you’re making an all-goat’s milk version of this cheese, you’ll need to add 3 drops more calcium chloride and 3 drops more rennet to help stabilize the milk and firm up the curds. If using all cow’s milk, use ¼ teaspoon calcium chloride and ¼ teaspoon rennet.
1 gallon pasteurized reduced fat (2 percent) cow’s milk
1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk
½ teaspoon Thermo C powdered thermophilic starter culture
½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water
3 teaspoons flake sea salt (or Himalayan sea salt)
Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt for brining
3 tablespoons honey
1. In a nonreactive 10-quart pot, heat the milks over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2. Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Add the rennet and gently whisk in for 1 minute. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.
3. Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 104°F over 40 minutes, stirring two or three times. Remove from the heat and stir for 15 minutes to release whey and shrink the curds to the size of peanuts. Over low heat, slowly bring the temperature to 112°F over 5 to 7 minutes, stirring the curds to firm them up. Once 112°F is reached, remove from the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest for 20 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.
4. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Place a strainer over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey. Line it with damp butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes, then sprinkle 1½ teaspoons of the sea salt over the curds and gently but thoroughly toss with your hands. Let drain for 5 more minutes.
5. Draw the ends of the muslin together to form a ball and twist to help squeeze out the excess moisture. Place the sack on a sanitized cutting board, roll it into a ball, and tie off the top to secure the curds in a round shape. Place both wrapped curds and cutting board on a draining rack and press down on the curds with your hands to flatten slightly. Smooth out the knot and ties as best you can to create a stable surface for a second cutting board to rest on. Place the second cutting board on top of the cheese, press down to even out the bundle, then cover the whole assembly completely with a kitchen towel. Place an 8-pound weight over the cheese and press for 8 hours or overnight at 75°F to 85°F.
6. Make 2 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the sack and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 12 hours, flipping it once to brine evenly. Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry, then place it on a cheese mat or rack to air-dry at room temperature for 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Flip once during this time.
7. Place in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity and age for 1 week, flipping daily. Then brush with a simple brine solution (see Brine Chart), cooled to 50°F to 55°F, twice a week for 2 weeks.
8. After 2 weeks, rub the cheese with 1½ tablespoons of the honey to coat, then return it to the ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 80 percent humidity for 1 week, flipping daily. The honey will form a film, preventing the cheese from drying out. After 1 more week, rub with the remaining 1½ tablespoons of honey and then with the remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt. Return the cheese to the ripening box for 2 more weeks, flipping daily, then vacuum-seal or wrap tightly in plastic wrap to protect the coating, and store refrigerated for 1 month up to 1 year.
To make chipotle-rubbed Montasio, combine 1 tablespoon of chipotle powder, ½ teaspoon of ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon of ground Mexican oregano, ½ teaspoon of dark brown sugar, ⅛ teaspoon of ground white pepper, and 1 teaspoon of fine sea salt in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of canola or vegetable oil and mix to form a paste. After brushing with the brine solution for 2 weeks, omit the honey rub. Instead, coat the cheese with the chipotle rub and return to the ripening box for at least 1 month, or longer for a more pronounced flavor. Then vacuum-seal or wrap in plastic to protect the coating, and store refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Inspired by the robust Pecorino Foglie di Noce from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, this hard, round, mixed-milk cheese is wrapped in walnut leaves (foglie di noce) and aged for 3 months. You’ll need 4 to 6 large dried walnut leaves, stemmed, blanched, and patted dry.
To best emulate the robust flavors that come with the use of sheep’s milk, a small amount of cream and a bit of lipase powder are added to the goat’s and cow’s milks. Make the cheese using the Montasio recipe, combining 1 cup of heavy cream with the milks. After adding the culture and before adding the calcium chloride and rennet, add a pinch of lipase powder. Follow the directions through the first stage of ripening, prior to rubbing with honey (through step 7). Rub the cheese with olive oil, then sprinkle with kosher salt and rub it into the surface. Though it’s not traditional, you can rub the cheese with smoked olive oil alternating with unflavored olive oil for a smoky flavor. The best smoked olive oil comes from the Smoked Olive, www.thesmokedolive.com.
Brush the walnut leaves on both sides with olive oil, then wrap enough leaves around the cheese to cover it fully. Place the cheese in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 75 percent humidity with good air circulation and age for 3 months, flipping daily for the first week, then twice a week thereafter. Rub the cheese daily with olive oil. Consume the cheese once it has aged 3 months, or vacuum-seal or wrap in plastic and store refrigerated for another month. When you’re ready to serve these cheeses, allow diners to peel away the leaf wrapping on their portion of cheese.
