Herb Salad with Chèvre- and Bacon-Stuffed Figs
Cheese is an extraordinary, inspirational ingredient, capable of transforming even the simplest dishes. However, cooking with cheese successfully requires some forethought. Here are a few guidelines for working with cheese in the kitchen.
1. Always use good quality cheese—the better the cheese, the better tasting the dish will be.
2. Understand the impact of heat, which changes the flavor and texture of a cheese. For example, blue cheese can intensify, while chèvre becomes less intense. Cheese should not be exposed to too fierce a heat unless briefly, in a broiler or wood-fired oven. Too much heat can transform beautiful cheese into a rubbery mass.
• Fresh cheeses, when gently heated, will melt and become creamy, adding flavor to risottos and pastas.
• High-fat and soft, moist cheeses are good for melting; for example, on grilled sandwiches and pizza.
• Low-fat cheeses are higher in protein and have little moisture, so they don’t melt well and can become leathery when heated to high temperatures.
• Harder cheeses can withstand higher temperatures than soft cheeses because more of their protein has been broken down into small fragments in the cheese making process. Their salty flavors will enhance piecrusts, galette doughs, and even biscotti.
3. Incorporated into a dish (rather than used as a topping), cheese blends into a dish best when:
• It is at room temperature and is cut, grated, or crumbled into small pieces
• It is added slowly and stirred only until the cheese is melted and incorporated
• It is added in small amounts
• It is cooked at relatively low temperatures for a short period of time, typically toward the end of the cooking process
4. Add grated cheese as a topping to a casserole or baked dish in the final 5 to 10 minutes to keep it creamy.
5. To prevent curdling or stringiness when adding cheese to a hot liquid, such as a cheese sauce or fondue, gently stir it in while the dish is off the heat and make sure a starch (flour, cornstarch, or arrowroot) is present. Adding a little acid (dry white wine, liqueur, vinegar, or, especially, lemon juice) while stirring over low heat will prevent the protein in the cheese from curdling and create a smooth sauce.
6. In long-cooking cheese dishes such as casseroles, the cheese won’t separate if you toss a little flour or cornstarch with the grated cheese (use 1 rounded tablespoon of starch per pound of cheese).
7. The rinds of soft-ripened or washed-rind cheeses are most easily removed when the cheeses are cold. Rinds of aged cheeses such as Parmesan can be added to soups or stocks to impart delicious flavor. Also, when grating cheese, chill it first to firm it up.
Maple-Planked Brie with Mushroom-Walnut Ragout
Serves 8
Roasting or grilling on aromatic wood planks is an easy, flavor-enhancing way of cooking. This method can be done on the stovetop in a cast-iron grill pan, but it is better still on a wood-fired grill or in a wood-fired oven, and it can even be done on a campfire. The planks are soaked in water or in a spirit-infused liquid, and then lightly charred on one side to release the aromatic oils in the wood. The food to be cooked is set on the charred side and roasted or grilled. For this simple planked dish, a beautiful bloomy-rind Brie is served on toast with a mushroom-walnut ragout that cooks while the cheese grills.
1½ pounds fresh meaty mushrooms, such as shiitake, royal trumpet, or oyster
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced lengthwise
1 cup lightly toasted walnut pieces
Four ¼-inch strips lemon zest
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil
2 long sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 cup dry white wine
2 wheels firm, ripe Brie, about 5 to 6 ounces each, at room temperature
Four ½-inch-thick slices artisan whole wheat raisin or currant bread
Submerge two 6-inch-square, ½-inch-thick maple planks in water and soak for 1 hour.
Preheat a grill to medium heat (400°F), with areas for both direct and indirect heat. When hot, place a clay baking vessel or cast-iron skillet on the grill to preheat.
Clean and trim the mushrooms, then cut lengthwise into thick slices. Put them in a bowl, add the garlic, walnuts, lemon zest, and some salt and pepper and toss to combine. Drizzle with olive oil just to moisten.
Place the mixture in the preheated pan and add the thyme, bay leaf, and wine. Place on the grill over indirect heat to roast until the mushrooms are golden, about 30 minutes, covering the grill. Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Keep warm until ready to serve.
While the ragout cooks, take the maple planks out of the water and let them drain for 10 minutes. Carefully cut the top rinds off the Brie and place them back on the wheels as lids (these will be removed later).
Toast one side of each plank over direct heat until well marked and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Place a wheel of Brie on the marked side of each plank and place on the grill over indirect heat. Close the lid and grill the Brie for 10 minutes. Remove the top rinds from the cheeses and discard, close the lid, and continue to cook for another 5 minutes, or until the surface of the cheese is golden brown and the interior is soft and oozy but the rind is intact. Grill the bread on both sides while cooking the Brie, then cut the toasts in half diagonally and keep them warm.
Remove the planked Brie from the grill and let cool for a few minutes. Take the planks to the table and spoon the roasted mushrooms over the cheeses. Smear the Brie on the toasts and load them up with ragout.
Smoked Mozzarella–Eggplant Fritters with Roasted Tomato–Herb Sauce
Makes 18 to 20
Who can resist melted, gooey smoked mozzarella? These cheese-filled crispy appetizers are like eating eggplant Parmesan in just two bites. The fritters can be prepared ahead of time and then fried at party time. If tomatoes are out of season, make the sauce with fire-roasted canned tomatoes.
2 globe eggplants (about 1½ pounds), diced small
Kosher salt
Olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced small
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
½ cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
3 cloves roasted garlic, minced
½ teaspoon sugar
1½ teaspoons dried thyme
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts, coarsely ground
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
¾ cup grated Parmesan or other hard cheese
1¼ cups plain dried bread crumbs
6 ounces smoked mozzarella or Scamorza, cut into ¾-inch cubes, chilled
2½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
Canola oil for frying
Roasted Tomato–Herb Sauce (recipe follows)
Place the diced eggplant in a colander and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of salt. Let drain over the sink or a bowl for 10 minutes to remove any bitterness. Quickly rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
In a large, deep cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, heat ¼ cup of olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 7 minutes. Add the eggplant and sauté until golden, about 10 minutes. Remove the eggplant mixture with a slotted spoon to the lined baking sheet to drain, then transfer to a bowl. Add the bell pepper, olives, garlic, sugar, thyme, and pine nuts. Mix well, add salt and pepper to taste, and set aside to cool.
In a medium bowl, whisk together 1 of the eggs, the grated cheese, and ¼ cup of the bread crumbs. Stir in the eggplant mixture. Shape the mixture into 1½-inch balls, pressing 1 cube of mozzarella into the center of each ball and covering the cheese with the eggplant mixture to enclose completely. Chill for 2 hours to firm up slightly, or refrigerate overnight and finish the next day.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Place the remaining 1 cup of bread crumbs on a plate for dredging. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining egg and the flour. Dip the balls into the egg batter one at a time, then roll in the bread crumbs to coat. Set aside on a baking sheet and place in the refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes.
Set a draining rack over a baking sheet and set it by the stove. Heat 1½ inches of canola oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. The oil is hot enough when a wooden spoon handle dipped in the oil sends up bubbles. Test with 1 eggplant ball for proper sizzling, signaled by robust bubbling when submerged in the hot oil, before frying the rest. Working in batches, add a few balls at a time to the hot oil; don’t add too many at once or the oil temperature will drop too much for proper browning. Use a slotted spoon to turn them a few times to brown evenly to a dark golden color and crispy exterior. Transfer to the rack to drain and keep warm in the oven until ready to serve. Sprinkle with salt and serve hot with the sauce on the side for dipping.
Makes about 3 cups
4 large Roma or seasonal tomatoes (about 1½ pounds), halved, cored, and seeded
2 unpeeled shallots, halved
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1 cup basil leaves, chopped
¼ cup mint leaves, chopped
Juice of 2 lemons
Red pepper flakes (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a bowl, combine the tomatoes and shallots, drizzle with olive oil to moisten, season with salt and pepper, and toss. Place the tomatoes and shallots cut side down on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, or until they are softened and their skins have shriveled. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins from the tomatoes and shallots. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and shallots, then transfer them to a bowl along with all their juices.
Add the basil, mint, lemon juice, and ½ cup of olive oil to the tomato mixture, then season with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes, if using. Transfer to a food processor or blender and pulse until pureed to the desired consistency. Set aside for 20 minutes at room temperature to allow the flavors to come together. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve warm or at room temperature. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator in a closed jar for 1 week. Allow cold sauce to return to room temperature before serving.
Grilled Grape Leaf Goat Cheese Toasts with Citrus Tapenade
Serves 8 as an appetizer
Fresh or brined grape leaves are used throughout their growing regions for wrapping rice, fish, or poultry before placing them on the grill. Here, the leaves encase disks of seasoned chèvre, which are then popped on the grill for a quick char. For additional flavor, you can macerate the grape leaves in lemon vodka or other spirits before wrapping. Use two leaves if one is too small to thoroughly encase the cheese. While still warm, the grape leaf packages are opened; the cheese is slathered onto grilled toast and topped with brightly colored citrusy tapenade. Any extra tapenade can be refrigerated for use at a later time.
8 to 16 large fresh grape leaves, stems removed, blanched, and patted dry
Flake sea salt
12 ounces chèvre, shaped into a 2-inch-diameter log
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
Olive oil
Eight ½-inch-thick slices rustic country-style bread
2 cloves garlic, peeled
Citrus Tapenade (recipe follows)
Lay the grape leaves out on baking sheets, ribbed side up. Lightly season with sea salt.
Slice the chèvre log into 8 portions and shape into patties about 2½ inches across. Combine the herbs de Provence with ½ cup of olive oil and dip each chèvre patty into it to coat.
Place a chèvre patty in the center of each grape leaf (use two overlapping leaves if one isn’t big enough), then fold the sides over the cheese, burrito-style: fold up the bottom to cover, then fold the sides in, and, lastly, fold the top over. Place the packets flap side down on one of the baking sheets. Lightly brush the packets with some of the remaining herbed olive oil, then chill for 1 hour.
Preheat a grill to medium-high heat (450°F), with areas for both direct and indirect grilling. Lightly oil the grill grates.
Prepare the bread by rubbing both sides of each slice with the garlic, then place on a baking sheet. Put about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small bowl and set on the baking sheet with the bread slices and a brush for swabbing the bread. Place the wrapped chèvre rounds on the grill, flap side down, over direct heat. Close the lid and cook for 2 minutes, or until the leaves are slightly charred. Turn the packets over and move them to indirect heat, close the lid, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until the cheese softens but isn’t melted and the leaf is charred. At the same time, brush one side of each slice of bread with olive oil and place oiled side down on the direct-heat portion of the grill to toast for a few minutes. Brush the top side with olive oil and turn over for a few minutes. Remove the toasts, cut them in half diagonally, and place them in a basket to keep warm.
Serve 1 grape leaf packet and 2 pieces of toast per person, with the tapenade on the side. Eat the grape leaves if they are tender, or simply open the packet and smear chèvre on the toasts and top with some tapenade.
VARIATION
Macerate the grape leaves in ½ cup of citrus-flavored vodka in a resealable plastic bag overnight; lay flat and refrigerate. Drain and pat the leaves dry before using. Reserve the leftover vodka for a martini!
Makes about 4 cups
2 small oranges
½ red onion, coarsely chopped
¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar
8 ounces green olives in brine, rinsed, pitted, and chopped
1 fennel bulb, finely chopped
1 tablespoon salted capers, rinsed and drained
3 cloves roasted garlic, minced
½ cup Italian parsley leaves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, finely minced (optional)
½ cup olive oil
Kosher salt
Finely ground white pepper
Zest one or both of the oranges and mince the zest to make 2 tablespoons. Remove the peels and pith of both oranges with a knife and cut between the membranes to section. Cut the sections into small chunks.
For a chunky relish, toss the chopped onion in rice vinegar in a small bowl and set aside. In a medium bowl, toss together the olives, fennel, capers, and garlic. Add the parsley, anchovy, if using, ¼ cup of the olive oil, the orange chunks, and the zest. Drain the onion, discarding the vinegar, and add it to the orange mixture. Stir in the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil and season with salt and white pepper to taste.
For a smoother tapenade, you can skip a lot of the mincing and simply pulse the ingredients together in a food processor to the desired consistency.
Either way, set aside for at least 30 minutes for the flavors to come together before serving. Tapenade may be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Serves 6
Rich, unctuous fonduta is Italy’s answer to fondue. It’s used as a dip for roasted vegetables and rustic toasts or as a sauce for gnocchi, or is stirred into polenta. Here I suggest you serve it with roasted mushrooms and potatoes and sweet, crisp apples, but you can add roasted baby artichokes or artichoke hearts or even roasted brussels sprouts to the assortment. Gruyère or Havarti can also be used for this dish, in place of the Taleggio or Fontina. Serve in individual dipping dishes or in one communal pot. A lightly dressed salad is a nice accompaniment.
3 large apples, cored and cut into 8 wedges each
Juice of 1 lemon
1 pound mixed robust-flavored mushrooms, such as chanterelles, porcini, shiitake, or maiitake
Olive oil
Kosher salt
12 to 18 small red creamer potatoes
2 large sweet potatoes, skin on, cut in half lengthwise and then into chunks
6 tablespoons butter, melted
6 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1½ cups whole milk
½ teaspoon truffled or smoked olive oil (optional)
1 loaf rustic bread, sliced and toasted
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Trim the rind from the cheese, then cut the cheese into ½-inch cubes. Keep in a cool but not cold place until needed. Submerge the apple wedges in a bowl of cool water combined with the lemon juice and set aside until the fonduta is ready to serve.
Remove the ends of the stems from the mushrooms (or the entire stems of the shiitake). Cut or tear the mushrooms into generous bite-size pieces. Toss with 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil and some salt and place on a baking sheet. Toss the red potatoes and sweet potatoes with 2 or 3 tablespoons of olive oil, salt them lightly, and place cut side down on a separate baking sheet. Put both pans in the oven. Roast the mushrooms for 20 minutes, or until they have released their liquid and it has evaporated. Roast the potatoes for about 30 minutes, or until they are tender and the cut side is slightly crispy. After removing each pan from the oven, cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Reduce the oven heat to 250°F and place 6 individual clay or ceramic crocks or one larger cast-iron pot or fondue pot in the oven to warm while you finish making the fonduta.
While the mushrooms and potatoes are roasting, bring 1 inch of water to a low boil in a medium saucepan. In a medium stainless steel bowl that will sit on the saucepan to create a double boiler, whisk together the butter, egg yolks, and milk to combine, then set the bowl over the saucepan. Cook the mixture while whisking slowly but constantly. When it has thickened slightly, stir in the cheese and continue to stir until melted and thickened into a creamy sauce, about 20 minutes. If adding truffled or smoked olive oil, stir it into the sauce. Whisk the sauce until smooth, then pour it into the warmed crocks.
Drain the apples and pat dry. Serve the apples, mushrooms, and potatoes in separate bowls or on one platter, along with the toasted rustic bread, all for dipping into the fonduta.
Grilled Cumin Flatbreads with Tomato-Ginger Chutney and Crème Fraîche Cottage Cheese
Makes 6 rustic flatbreads
Flatbreads are a staple food in most cultures around the world, and they make a fantastic backdrop for fresh cheeses like the cultured cottage cheese used here. This basic recipe easily adjusts to your flavor or cuisine preferences—change the cumin to fennel seed or rosemary, or include a bit of whole wheat flour. I think flatbreads taste best when they are a bit charred from the grill. If you don’t have a grill, you can use a cast-iron stovetop grill pan and cook the flatbreads on the ribbed side. Note that you should prepare the chutney a day before the flatbreads.
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1½ cups water, plus more as needed
Olive oil
Canola oil
Coarse sea salt
Tomato-Ginger Chutney (recipe follows)
Combine the flour, yeast, salt, and cumin in a stand mixer and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Slowly add the water and mix at a slightly higher speed for 5 minutes, and then on slow speed for another 2 minutes to start the formation of the gluten. Alternatively, to mix by hand, in a large bowl combine the flour, yeast, salt, and cumin and mix well for 2 minutes. Slowly add the water and mix to combine until well incorporated. Put the dough on a lightly floured work surface and knead for 1 minute. If the dough is not coming together to form a ball, add more water. Cover the dough and let it rise for 2 hours or until doubled in size.
Punch the dough down, then form it into a large ball and cut the ball into 6 equal pieces. Shape the individual balls by gently stretching and tucking under, then rolling the ball to keep the “belly button” on the bottom. Set on a floured sheet pan and lightly brush the tops of the balls with olive oil. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap to prevent the surface of the balls from drying out and let rest for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.
Heat a grill to medium-high heat (450°F to 500°F) or place a stovetop grill pan over high heat. Lightly brush the grill grates or grill pan with canola oil just before grilling.
When ready to make the flatbreads, flour a wood peel and, working on the peel, stretch and shape a dough ball into an 8- to 10-inch round or oblong shape. Brush with more of the olive oil, being careful not to get oil on the peel. Lightly dust the edges of the dough with coarse sea salt and flip it onto the grill over direct heat, oiled side down. Repeat the process with the other dough balls, grilling 2 or 3 flatbreads at the same time if you have the space, over direct heat.
Close the lid of the grill, or if using the stovetop method, place an inverted skillet over each flatbread to act as a lid. When the dough puffs up and there are good grill marks on the dough, about 4 minutes, lightly brush the top of each flatbread with olive oil and flip over to grill the other side for about 5 minutes. Transfer the flatbread to a cooler spot, over indirect heat, to finish cooking the interior.
Remove the flatbreads from the grill as they finish cooking, place on a cutting board, and cut into wedges. Serve hot with the cottage cheese and chutney.
Makes about 2 cups
1 cup golden or mixed cherry tomatoes, halved
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, blanched and thinly sliced into strips
¼ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons golden raisins, plumped in hot water and drained
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Zest from 1 orange
Juice of 1 orange
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a low boil over medium heat. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Adjust the salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat, cool, cover, and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavors to come together. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Goat Cheese and Chive Fallen Soufflés with Herb-Citrus Vinaigrette
Serves 8
Cheese soufflés are delicious and easy to make, and this version is foolproof, since they are intentionally allowed to fall before serving! Because of this, they can even be made ahead and reheated. My favorite combination is the one presented here with tart fresh goat cheese and chives, served with a citrus vinaigrette, but you can substitute other cheeses, such as grated Gruyère, Asiago, Jack, dry Jack, or even a favorite blue. Play with other herb combinations as well.
¼ cup plus ⅓ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons finely chopped chives
½ cup Italian parsley leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole milk at room temperature
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
3 egg yolks, beaten
½ cup crumbled chèvre
5 egg whites
4 cups baby salad greens
Herb-Citrus Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Spray a 2-quart oval baking dish or 8 individual 4-ounce ramekins with olive or canola oil. Combine the ¼ cup of Parmesan and the thyme and dust the baking dish or ramekins with this mixture. Combine the chives, parsley, salt, and pepper and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, make a roux by melting the butter, then adding the flour and stirring for 3 minutes to cook the flour. Slowly pour in the milk while stirring. Stir in the nutmeg and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened to the consistency of pancake batter. Remove from the heat and add the parsley mixture.
Stir the egg yolks into the sauce, then add the crumbled chèvre. In a large bowl or stand mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form when the beater is lifted. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the mixture, and then repeat until all of the whites have been added. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan or ramekins. Sprinkle the tops with the ⅓ cup of Parmesan.
Place the soufflé dish or ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet, place on the middle rack of the oven, and fill the baking sheet halfway with warm water. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden and firm to the touch. Remove the baking dish or ramekins from the water and let stand for 15 minutes to allow the soufflés to fall.
Dress the greens with some of the vinaigrette, then divide them among 8 serving plates. Scoop out servings of soufflé or turn out individual soufflés onto the greens, placing them top side up.
Makes about 1½ cups
2 shallots, unpeeled
Olive oil
1 teaspoon minced orange zest
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon leaves
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 oranges, peeled
¼ cup champagne vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons honey
½ to ¾ cup fruity olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly rub 2 whole skin-on shallots with olive oil. Place the shallots in a small skillet and roast in the oven, turning once or twice, until the skins are well marked and the interiors of the shallots are slightly soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the shallots cool before removing the skins and finely chopping.
Combine the orange zest, shallots, tarragon, and parsley. Working over a small bowl, holding an orange in one hand, section the oranges by cutting between the flesh and the membrane of each section with a sharp knife to release the orange sections. Cut the orange flesh into small chunks and put them in a separate bowl.
Combine the champagne vinegar, orange juice, and honey in a bowl and stir to dissolve the honey. Add any reserved orange juice from the orange-sectioning process. Slowly pour in the olive oil, whisking continuously to create an emulsion. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Just before dressing the greens, whisk again to incorporate all of the ingredients, then stir in the orange chunks.
Serves 6
This creamy custard side dish features two of Spain’s notable ingredients, aromatic saffron and aged Manchego cheese. Dry Jack, Romano, and Asiago are also good options. Serve the flan on a bed of baby greens or top with dressed microgreens. This is a nice side for roasted chicken or grilled fish.
1½ cups whole milk
8 threads saffron
¼ cup crème fraîche
3 eggs, beaten
2 egg yolks, beaten
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
4 ounces six-month-aged Manchego, finely grated
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter six 5-ounce ramekins or one 1½-quart baking dish.
Over medium-low heat, bring the milk to a simmer. Add the saffron threads. Remove from the heat and steep for 15 minutes. Whisk in the crème fraîche. Cool for 10 minutes, then whisk in the beaten eggs and egg yolks to mix well. Add the paprika, salt, and pepper and whisk to combine. Stir in the Manchego.
Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins or baking dish, leaving ¼ to ½ inch of space at the top edge. Place the ramekins or baking dish in a larger baking dish of the same depth. Pour in enough hot water to fill the larger dish to a depth of 1 inch. Bake until the flans are slightly puffed and firm to the touch on top, about 30 to 35 minutes for ramekins, or 5 minutes longer if baking in one dish.
Carefully remove the larger pan from the oven, leaving the flan in the hot water for another 5 minutes to set up. Remove the flan from the water bath and set aside to cool for 10 minutes. Run a paring knife around the edges to release the flan. When ready to serve, invert the ramekins to release each flan into your hand, then quickly turn it over and place, top side up, on a serving plate, or serve the larger flan in its baking vessel.
Serves 6
Drizzled with an orange-thyme syrup, this is an absolutely beautiful yet simple salad. The classic food partnerships here among fresh goat cheese, fines herbes (a blend of chervil, chives, parsley, and tarragon), orange, thyme, and smoky bacon all ring harmoniously in the presence of fresh, ripe figs. Make this dish when figs are at their prime—if they are slightly underripe, place them in a shallow baking dish and heat through in a 300°F oven. When figs are out of season, use poached pears on baby salad greens for an equally delicious dish.
SYRUP
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon orange zest
¼ cup sugar
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
3 sprigs thyme
SALAD
1½ cups arugula leaves, stems removed
1 cup baby red lettuce leaves
½ cup basil leaves
¼ cup mint leaves
2 tablespoons chervil
½ cup softened chèvre (about 4 ounces)
1 teaspoon dried fines herbes
¼ teaspoon sea salt, plus more for dressing
2 teaspoons fruity olive oil, plus more for dressing
4 ounces thick-sliced applewood-smoked bacon, finely chopped
¼ cup finely minced shallot
6 large firm, ripe black or green figs
Freshly ground white pepper
To make the syrup, combine the orange juice, zest, sugar, and pepper in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the thyme, then lower the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the thyme, and set aside to cool.
To make the salad, tear the leaves of the arugula, red lettuce, basil, and mint into a bowl, add the chervil, and toss to combine. Set aside in the refrigerator to chill.
In a small bowl, mix together the goat cheese, fines herbes, and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Set aside in the refrigerator to chill. Heat the 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, add the bacon, and cook, stirring often, until nearly crispy. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let drain on a paper towel.
Cut the figs in half lengthwise, press the center of each to make a small cavity for the filling, and divide the bacon and shallots among the figs, mounding the filling slightly. Spoon a small amount of the goat cheese mixture over the filling. Lightly dress the greens with more of the olive oil, sea salt, and white pepper, and divide them among 6 serving plates. Place the stuffed figs atop the greens and drizzle with the syrup, then serve.
Bocconcini and Roasted Tomato Pasta Salad
Serves 6
Caprese salad is a favorite from Capri featuring fresh mozzarella, sliced ripe tomatoes, and basil. This dish reimagines caprese, adding pasta, bocconcini (bite-size mozzarella pieces), roasted tomatoes, and aromatic smoked olive oil. The type of oil I prefer comes from the Smoked Olive (www.thesmokedolive.com); feel free to substitute plain extra virgin olive oil. Serve the salad family-style in a shallow bowl or on a platter.
12 Roma tomatoes, halved, cored, and seeded
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Sea salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1 pound small shaped dried pasta, such as farfalle, gemelli, orecchiette, or a mixture
1 pound bocconcini balls, drained
¼ cup smoked olive oil or extra virgin olive oil
15 large basil leaves
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Toss the tomatoes in 3 tablespoons of olive oil, then place them cut side up on a baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes, or until they are softened. When cool enough to handle, transfer the tomatoes to a bowl (reserve any juices from the pan for the pasta), add the balsamic vinegar and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, tear 4 of the bocconcini balls into shreds and toss with sea salt and a drizzle of the smoked olive oil. Stem and shred 3 of the basil leaves. When cooked, drain the pasta and toss with the reserved tomato juices, the shredded cheese, the remaining smoked olive oil, the shredded basil, salt to taste, and the red pepper flakes. Place in a shallow serving bowl or on a platter.
Toss together the roasted tomatoes and the remaining whole bocconcini and arrange them over the pasta. Tuck in the remaining 12 whole basil leaves and serve at room temperature.
Spinach Salad with Charred Ricotta Salata and Caramelized Oranges
Serves 6
Salt, sweetness, smoke, and a hint of bitterness all come together here to create a sensational salad. Caramelized oranges are absolutely perfect with the grilled ricotta salata, and together they brighten the slightly tannic spinach and earthy olives.
10 ounces ricotta salata, drained
10 tablespoons olive oil
3 large oranges
½ cup sugar
4 cups packed spinach leaves, stems removed, patted dry
½ teaspoon sea salt
6 cloves garlic, blanched and slivered
Pinch of red pepper flakes
½ cup green olives, pitted and slivered lengthwise
¼ cup oil-cured olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
Dried mint for garnish
¼ cup shelled salted pistachios, coarsely chopped, for garnish (optional)
Cut the ricotta salata into ¾-inch cubes, toss in a bowl with 5 tablespoons of the olive oil, and set aside. Cut the ends off 2 of the oranges. Remove the peels and pith with a knife by following the curvature of the orange, carving below the pith to reveal the flesh. Trim off any remaining pith. Cut each orange into 4 or 5 horizontal slices. Spread on a baking sheet and sprinkle the tops with ¼ cup of the sugar. Set aside. Zest the remaining orange and mince the zest, then set both the zest and the orange aside.
Heat a cast-iron griddle pan over high heat. Place the cubes of ricotta salata on the hot griddle and cook for 5 to 10 seconds, just long enough to char. Turn over on the opposite side and repeat until charred on the second side. Remove the cheese from the pan immediately and place on a baking sheet to cool.
Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and spread the remaining ¼ cup of sugar over the bottom of the pan. When the sugar begins to melt, place the orange slices sugar side down into the melting sugar. Do not move the oranges for 1 to 2 minutes to allow the syrup to set, but if the sugar is caramelizing before the oranges are slightly softened and lightly caramelized, lower the heat. Return the oranges, caramelized side up, to the baking sheet to cool.
Pour the cooked sugar syrup from the pan into a bowl. Squeeze the juice from the zested orange into the skillet and stir to deglaze. Add the orange juice to the sugar syrup, then stir in the zest and any sweet juices that the cooling orange slices have exuded. Slowly whisk in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil to make a vinaigrette.
Just before serving, using the same skillet used for the oranges, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat until heated through. Add the spinach, salt, garlic, and red pepper flakes, then quickly stir to slightly wilt the spinach. Do not overcook, and promptly drain off any liquid.
Working quickly, divide the hot spinach among 6 individual serving plates. Top each serving with caramelized orange slices, dividing them evenly among the salads. Top each salad with a few pieces of charred ricotta salata, drizzle with the vinaigrette, and sprinkle the olives, dried mint, and chopped pistachios, if using, over the oranges. Serve right away.
Serves 6
Created as a way to use leftovers by Bob Cobb, the owner of Hollywood’s Brown Derby restaurant, Cobb salad became the benchmark composed salad of the 1920s. I consider it the American salade niçoise. The original salad of chopped chicken or turkey, bacon, hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes, avocado, cubed cheddar cheese, and chopped iceberg lettuce was dressed with a simple vinaigrette. This version uses a variety of lettuces, crumbly artisan blue cheese, and smoky bacon. The creamy blue cheese dressing seconds the flavors of the cheese and complements the chicken and bacon, making for a luxurious salad.
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
Pinch of kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
Canola oil
4 leaves Bibb lettuce
3 leaves romaine lettuce
4 leaves frisée
6 slices applewood-smoked bacon, cooked until crisp and crumbled
6 radishes, quartered
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
⅓ cup mixed marinated or kalamata olives, drained and pitted
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
½ cup Buttermilk Blue Dressing (recipe follows)
Combine the olive oil, paprika, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub the chicken with the mixture. Heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat and lightly oil with canola oil. Cook the chicken breasts until well marked on both sides and cooked to an internal temperature of 175°F, 5 to 8 minutes per side. Remove from the pan to cool, then cut into bite-size cubes and set aside.
Remove any thick stems from the lettuce leaves and tear them into bite-size pieces, then toss them together and place on a serving platter. Arrange the chicken, bacon, radishes, eggs, tomatoes, and olives in decorative rows on top of the lettuce. Sprinkle the chopped chives over the top. When ready to serve, drizzle the entire platter with about half of the dressing. Serve the remaining dressing on the side. Let your guests plate their own salads with the ingredients of their choice, drizzling and tossing with more dressing if they desire.
Makes about 1¼ cups
¾ cup buttermilk (see variation on Crème Fraîche)
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
Pinch of sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 ounces crumbled blue cheese
Combine the buttermilk, mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, pepper, and 1 ounce of the blue cheese in a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and adjust the seasonings, then fold in the remaining blue cheese. Set aside in the refrigerator to chill slightly.
Serves 6 as a main course
This hearty, rustic soup is filled with healthy legumes and flavored with Moroccan spices. The spicy chile-based Tunisian condiment harissa is stirred into the soup to build the level of heat you desire. Harissa can be purchased ready-made in the Middle Eastern foods section of markets, but I encourage you to make your own to keep on hand for use in this and other dishes. The counterpoint to the heat and spiciness of the soup is easy-to-make yogurt cheese with mint, shaped into balls and floated on top of the soup. The cheese can be eaten in bites with the soup or spread onto seed crackers or crisp flatbreads.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 white onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
½ teaspoon kosher salt
7 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Two 14-ounce cans diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1½ teaspoons sugar
1½ cups cooked chickpeas or one 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
¾ cup brown or green lentils, picked over
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon turmeric
Freshly ground white pepper
¼ cup cilantro leaves, chopped
½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Harissa (recipe follows)
In a Dutch oven or clay pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the onion and carrots and sauté for 5 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Add the salt, stock, tomatoes with their juice, and sugar, and bring to a simmer. Add the chickpeas and lentils, cover, and cook until the lentils are al dente, about 20 minutes. Stir in the mint, cumin, ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric, cover, and cook for another 15 minutes, or until the lentils are soft but not mushy. Season with pepper to taste, add more salt if needed, then stir in the cilantro. Add the lemon juice, taste, and add more if needed—just to brighten the flavor, not to make it taste lemony. Heat the soup through and serve it in soup bowls with a few balls of yogurt cheese floating on top and the harissa on the side to season the soup.
Makes about ½ cup
6 to 8 dried hot red chiles (preferably New Mexico), seeded
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ cup olive oil
Soak the chiles in hot water for 30 minutes to hydrate, then drain and squeeze out the excess water. Place the drained chiles and the remaining ingredients in a blender and process to form a paste. Store in a jar, covered with a thin layer of olive oil, in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Tortilla Soup with Grilled Shrimp, Cotija, and Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa
Serves 6 as a main course
This Mexican soup is a meal in itself, bursting with color and flavor, and healthy to boot. Many of the steps can be done ahead, including grilling the vegetables and shrimp and making the chicken-shrimp stock. You can also forgo the soup and simply serve the skewered shrimp with the salsa and toasted tortillas.
GRILLED SHRIMP
1 quart water
⅓ cup kosher salt
½ cup sugar
1 pound extra-jumbo (16/20) shrimp, shells on
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
Zest from 1 lemon
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup white wine
Juice from 2 lemons
¼ cup olive oil
SOUP
6 cups chicken stock
2 corn tortillas
Canola oil
1 guajillo chile, toasted, stemmed, and seeded
1 cup canned diced fire-roasted tomatoes
6 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons corn oil
1 poblano chile, roasted, peeled, and seeded
1 serrano chile, seeded and diced
1 cup diced white onion
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons cilantro
Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa (recipe follows)
1 cup crumbled Cotija
To prepare the shrimp, combine the water, salt, and sugar in a tub with a lid and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Place the shrimp in the brine, cover, and refrigerate for 20 minutes, then remove the shrimp, rinse, and pat dry.
Submerge bamboo skewers (2 for every 3 shrimp) in water and soak for 20 minutes. Whisk together the garlic, lemon zest, red pepper flakes, wine, lemon juice, and olive oil and toss with the shrimp. Marinate for 20 to 35 minutes in the refrigerator. While the shrimp are marinating, begin making the Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa (recipe follows); you can grill the vegetables for the salsa as you are grilling the shrimp.
Preheat a grill to medium-high heat (450°F) and lightly oil the grill grates.
Remove the shrimp from the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature. Drain the skewers. Thread 3 of the shrimp on each pair of skewers. Grill for 2 minutes per side, or until the shrimp start to turn pink but remain slightly translucent inside. When cool enough to handle, remove the shells. Set the shrimp aside and reserve the shells for the soup.
To make the soup, combine the chicken stock and shrimp shells in a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, then discard the shells.
Cut the corn tortillas into ⅛-inch strips. Heat ½ inch of canola oil over medium-high heat. Add the tortilla strips and gently stir to brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Drain the strips on paper towels and set aside.
Break the toasted guajillo into small pieces and place in a blender or food processor with the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, cumin, lime juice, and corn oil. Pulse a few times just to chop the tomatoes, garlic, and guajillo. Pour half of the mixture into the stock and puree the rest. Add the pureed mixture to the stock. Place over medium heat and bring to a low boil.
Cut the poblano into strips and add it to the pot, along with the serrano and onion. Cook for 5 minutes, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
Ladle into 6 warmed shallow soup bowls and place 3 shrimp in each. Garnish with the fried tortilla strips, cilantro, a dollop of salsa, and Cotija.
Makes about 1½ cups
1 red onion, unpeeled, cut in half
2 ripe but firm avocados, halved and pitted
4 tomatillos, husks on
¼ cup finely diced red bell pepper
1 serrano chile, seeded and diced
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Grated zest of 1 lime
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Preheat a grill to medium-high heat (450°F) and lightly oil the grill grates. Over direct heat, grill the onion and avocados, cut side down, until well marked, about 7 minutes. Remove them from the grill, put the tomatillos on the grill, close the lid, and toast until the husks are charred and the tomatillos are just soft, about 7 minutes. Take the tomatillos off the grill. Remove the husks from the tomatillos and the skins from the onion and avocados. Coarsely chop the tomatillos, onion, and avocados and place in a bowl along with the red pepper and serrano chile. Add the salt and pepper and toss to combine. Add the lime zest and juice and mix well. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. Just before serving, toss in the cilantro.
Serves 6
Saag panir (or saag paneer) is a classic Indian dish, and it’s the one that first got me hooked on Indian food. Panir is a very firm traditional Indian cheese that keeps its shape and texture in the cooking process. Here it’s coated with turmeric, then slightly toasted before being added to the curried spinach mixture. Use mild or hot curry powder depending on your taste. This is wonderful served with aromatic basmati rice and grilled flatbread slathered with clarified butter (try the Grilled Cumin Flatbreads).
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
12 ounces panir, cut into ¾-inch cubes
4 tablespoons canola oil
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
3 serrano chiles, seeded and minced
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1½ teaspoons mild or hot curry powder
1½ pounds fresh spinach leaves, stemmed, washed, and drained, or two 10-ounce packages frozen spinach, thawed and well drained
1½ cups reduced fat (2 percent) milk at room temperature
2½ cups low-fat plain yogurt, at room temperature
2½ teaspoons cornstarch
In a small bowl, combine the 1 tablespoon of turmeric with the 1 tablespoon of salt. Add the panir and toss until evenly coated. Place on a paper towel.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the panir, making sure the pieces don’t touch, and brown the cubes on all sides. Set the panir aside on a paper towel to let drain. Repeat the process with any remaining panir.
Without cleaning the skillet, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pan, and heat to medium-high. Add the onion, ginger, and chiles and sauté until soft, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the cumin, coriander, curry powder, and the remaining 2 teaspoons of turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the spinach and season with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes to cook the spinach. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, then place the spinach mixture in a blender or food processor. Add the milk, and puree until only slightly chunky. Adjust the salt to taste. Return the mixture to low heat until it is bubbling slightly.
While the spinach is heating, whisk the yogurt and cornstarch together in a small bowl until the cornstarch is thoroughly dissolved. (The cornstarch will prevent the yogurt from separating when heated.) Stir this into the bubbling spinach mixture. Set the browned panir on top of the spinach, cover, and heat for 2 minutes. Gently stir to incorporate, then cover and continue to simmer for 10 minutes, or until completely heated through.
Grilled Chiles Rellenos Stuffed with Queso Oaxaca, Mushrooms, and Sweet Potato
Serves 8
Cheese-filled chiles rellenos are one of my favorite Mexican dishes. I love to grill them rather than batter-fry them—it lends a smoky, charred flavor. In this version, wonderful, fresh queso Oaxaca is the base for the earthy, spicy-sweet filling combining mushrooms and sweet potato. Achiote paste is made with annatto seeds, garlic, and other spices and is used in many Hispanic dishes to give rich, deep flavors. Annatto seeds are used to make the liquid annatto, which is used to color certain cheeses. I serve this dish with a side of rice and simple tossed greens.
8 large poblano chiles
Kosher salt
12 ounces queso Oaxaca, chilled
Juice of 1 lime
2 large sweet potatoes (about 14 ounces total), cooked, peeled, and mashed
1½ teaspoons achiote paste, crumbled
Zest of 1 lime
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small white onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and coarsely chopped
¼ cup mirin or dry white wine
¼ cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
Cut a 3-inch slit down one side of each poblano to allow for stuffing. Remove the veins and most of the seeds. Lightly salt the insides and set aside on a baking sheet.
Coarsely shred the cheese into a medium bowl and drizzle the lime juice over it. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of salt, rub the salt into the cheese, then toss to combine.
In a separate bowl, combine the mashed sweet potato, achiote paste, and lime zest. Season with salt to taste and set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat, add the onion, and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and mushrooms and continue to sauté for 5 minutes. Add the mirin and cook until the mushrooms are soft and the liquid has been absorbed, about another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro.
Preheat a grill to medium-high heat (450°F), with areas for both direct and indirect grilling. Lightly oil the grill grates.
Using a spoon, smear the inside walls of each poblano with about ¼ cup of the sweet potato mixture. Follow with a handful of the seasoned queso Oaxaca, then top the cheese with a generous spoonful of the mushroom mixture. Place on a baking sheet and brush with olive oil.
Place the chiles over direct heat on the grill. Cover and grill, turning occasionally, until the skins are blistered and slightly charred, about 5 minutes. Move to indirect heat and continue cooking until the cheese is hot and melted, about 5 more minutes. Alternatively, roast the chiles in a 375°F oven for 30 minutes. Transfer to a platter and serve.
Blue Cheese, Bacon, and Pear Galette
Makes one 10-inch tart
This savory galette combines salty-sweet bacon with maple-coated pears and an earthy blue cheese, all cozily housed in a golden, nutty almond crust. An herbaceous rosemary glaze is the crowning touch to a real crowd-pleaser.
DOUGH
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup almond flour or almond meal
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled
About ¾ cup ice water
FILLING
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces bacon, cut crosswise into narrow strips
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced into wedges
3 large shallots, thinly sliced into wedges
¼ cup maple syrup
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
2 large pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 12 wedges each
3 ounces mild blue cheese or Coastal Blue, cut into 8 thin wedges
GLAZE
Reserved maple syrup mixture
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary leaves
To make the dough, combine the all-purpose flour, almond flour, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut the cold butter into the dry ingredients until the pieces are the size of a pea and still visible. Slowly add 6 tablespoons of the ice water and stir to incorporate, adding more water as needed until the dough comes together and forms a ball. You may not need the full amount of water. Do not overwork the dough. Once the dough holds together, form it into a 6-inch disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to overnight.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
To make the filling, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil, then add the bacon and cook, stirring often, until the bacon is crispy and the fat is rendered, about 7 minutes. Set aside on paper towels to drain. Remove half of the fat from the pan, add the onion and shallots, and sauté until lightly caramelized, about 7 minutes. In a bowl, combine the maple syrup, vanilla, and cardamom. Toss the pear wedges in the syrup mixture to coat, then leave them to soak in the mixture.
Working on a sheet of parchment paper, roll out the dough into a rough 14-inch circle. Lift the parchment with the dough onto a baking sheet. Leaving a 2-inch border, evenly distribute the bacon-onion mixture over the the dough. Place the pear wedges in a decorative pattern over the bacon-onion mixture, overlapping if needed. Fill in the center with small pieces of pear. Reserve the maple syrup mixture to use in the glaze.
Moving around the tart, fold the edges of the dough toward the center and over the filling, pleating it as you go to securely enclose the filling. Place on the lower rack of the oven and bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Top with the wedges of blue cheese and bake for another 10 minutes, or until the crust is crispy and very golden and the pears are caramelized.
Meanwhile, make the glaze. Combine the reserved maple syrup mixture, sugar, water, and chopped rosemary in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Bring to a low boil and cook until the sugar is melted and a slightly thick syrup is created, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Using a pastry brush, spread the glaze over the top of the galette. Let cool for 15 minutes, then cut and serve.
Grilled Apple, Jack, and Curry Sandwich
Serves 2
To me, all grilled cheese sandwiches are winners, but this is one of my favorites. Originally created by chef John Ash for his namesake restaurant in Northern California, it’s now one of the most popular combinations at John’s food cart business, Hot Cheese. Make it even more delicious by including one or more of the suggested add-ons listed in the variations, below. Since curry powders vary widely in flavor and power, use your favorite and adjust to your own taste.
¼ cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon Madras-style curry powder
4 thick slices rustic whole wheat, multigrain, or seeded bread
2 apples (Gravensteins are good), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
8 ounces coarsely grated Jack cheese
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
Combine the mayonnaise, honey, mustard, and curry and mix until smooth. Taste and adjust the balance of flavors if necessary. Liberally spread the mixture on 1 side of the bread slices. Top 2 of the bread slices with a layer of apples. Arrange a mound of the cheese over the apples and top with the remaining slices of dressed bread.
Melt the butter and oil together in a heavy-bottomed or cast-iron skillet and cook the sandwiches until golden on both sides. Cut in half diagonally and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
• 4 strips applewood-smoked bacon, crisply fried or baked
• Slices of good ham or salumi
• Almond or any other nut butter that you like
• Major Grey or any other chutney that you like
Makes one 1½-pound loaf
This very simple bread recipe, adapted from my book Wood-Fired Cooking, is baked in a covered Dutch oven or clay pot, a centuries-old technique. The yogurt adds a light tangy flavor and also tenderizes the dough. Add 1 tablespoon of minced lemon zest to the dough just before folding for even more layers of flavor.
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
½ cup whole wheat flour
¼ teaspoon instant yeast
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ cup whole (see recipe) or low-fat yogurt
1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons water
1½ tablespoons minced fresh dill or 1½ teaspoons dried
1 teaspoon fine cornmeal (optional)
Coarse sea salt
In a large bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, yeast, and kosher salt. Using a whisk, combine the yogurt and water, then stir in the dill. Fold this into the dry mixture until blended. Add another tablespoon of water if the dough is dry; it should be rough looking and a bit sticky. Place the dough in an oiled container, cover, and let rest for 12 to 18 hours at an ambient temperature of about 70°F. The dough is ready when bubbles appear on the surface.
Gently turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dust the dough with flour, then, using a bowl scraper or bench scraper, fold the dough over on itself two times. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rest for 15 minutes.
Line a bowl large enough to hold the risen dough with a flour sack or smooth kitchen towel. Generously coat the portion of the towel that is inside the bowl with all-purpose flour or a combination of flour and the cornmeal.
Flour your hands and the work surface (if needed) and gently shape the dough into a ball, then quickly place it, seam side down, in the floured bowl. Cover the dough with the ends of the towel and let rest for about 2 hours, or until doubled in size.
This bread can be baked in a conventional oven or over a wood fire. Half an hour before baking, set an empty 4-quart lidded baking pot (cast-iron, ceramic, or clay) and lid over the fire to preheat; if baking indoors, 1½ hours into the rising time place the baking pot and lid in the cold oven and preheat the oven to 500°F.
When the dough has risen, remove the pot from the oven or fire, and gently turn the dough out into the pot, seam side up. Any ragged edges are fine. They will become crispy and crunchy during baking. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt.
If cooking over coals, cover the pot with a sheet of foil and put the lid in place over the foil. Put 10 or so hot coals on top of the lid and put the pot over the fire. Bake for 20 minutes. If cooking in a conventional oven, place the heated lid on the pot and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and bake for another 15 minutes or more, until the loaf is a deep golden color. Slide the bread out of the pot and cool it on a rack. It tastes best if left to rest for 1 hour before serving.
Makes 12 scones
Though scones are often thought of as sweet, savory versions are equally delicious, especially served warm with a dollop of crème fraîche. Combining sharp cheddar with chives makes these scones a perfect match with everything from a citrusy summer salad to a hearty cold-weather potato and bacon soup. You can play with different flavored cheddars in this recipe; try Irish-Style Cheddar paired with fresh English thyme instead of chives. If you prefer a round shape to a wedge, cut into two- or three-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter and bake for a shorter length of time—fourteen to seventeen minutes.
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1½ tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes and chilled
About 1¼ cups cultured buttermilk (see variation on Crème Fraîche)
1¾ cups coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese (about 7 ounces)
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Place the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a mixing bowl and stir to combine. Place the bowl in the refrigerator to chill for 10 minutes. Add the cubed butter and blend it into the flour mixture, breaking the butter into large flakes that remain visible. Combine 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the buttermilk, 1½ cups of the cheddar, and the chives and gently stir the mixture into the flour. The dough should have only enough moisture to just hold it together; add a few drops more buttermilk if needed. Do not overwork the dough or the scones will be tough.
Place the dough on a floured work surface and lightly dust with flour. With floured hands, shape the dough into two 8-inch disks about ¾ inch thick. Place the disks on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover, and chill for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut each disk into 6 wedges and place on a freshly lined baking sheet. Lightly brush with some of the remaining buttermilk and sprinkle with a bit of the remaining ¼ cup of grated cheese. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until lightly golden. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then serve warm. Store cooled scones in an airtight container for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Makes sixteen 2-inch brownies
It may sound crazy, but blue cheese and chocolate, two seemingly mismatched partners, dance together deliciously. In this brownie, crunchy toasted walnuts work with the saltiness of the blue cheese, which in turn complements the bittersweet chocolate. This is my adaptation of the fudge brownie recipe from Michael Recchiuti and Fran Gage’s book Chocolate Obsession. Because these are very rich, I cut them into small squares to serve. Trust me: try this one. You will be the hit of the party!
½ cup toasted walnut pieces
5 ounces 70 percent bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces crumbled mild blue cheese
⅔ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1¼ cups sugar
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and 2 sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with aluminum foil, then coat with cooking spray.
Break the larger walnut pieces into small bits. Divide the chocolate into 2 equal portions. Put 2 inches of water in a small pot and bring it to a simmer. Place half of the chocolate and the butter in a small stainless steel bowl and set it over the pot. Turn off the heat. Stir occasionally until the chocolate and butter melt and are fully combined. Stir in 2 ounces of the blue cheese until well combined and smooth. Set the bowl aside.
Sift the flour and salt together into a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and vanilla together until blended, then whisk in the sugar. Whisk the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture. Stir the flour and the remaining chocolate chunks into the batter and mix well. Using a spatula, fold in the remaining 2 ounces of blue cheese and the walnuts.
Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and spread evenly with an offset spatula. Place on the middle rack of the oven and bake until the top gives only slightly when you touch it with a finger, about 30 minutes. At this point, test with a skewer for doneness. The skewer should have a slight amount of batter on it; the brownies will finish baking as the pan cools. Place on a rack to cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold and set up.
Run a knife around the edges of the pan and lift the whole brownie out of the pan on the foil. Place it on a work surface and, using a sharp knife, cut into sixteen 2-inch brownies. Store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Makes one 9- to 10-inch tart
This tart uses cheddar in the crust for a spin on the classic cheddar–apple pie pairing. The crust is actually a cheddar cookie recipe from my friend Nick Malgieri, the author of Bake! and numerous other cookbooks. You’ll have some dough left after filling the tart pan, so you can either use that dough to make decorative cutouts to add to the top of the tart or cut it into squares and bake it as crackers. This dough is also wonderful in a savory tart.
DOUGH
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
4 ounces grated sharp cheddar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of white pepper
FILLING
¼ cup unsalted butter
2 or 3 large apples (1½ pounds), peeled, cored, and sliced into wedges
3 tablespoons brown sugar
Pinch of anise seeds
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 ounces grated sharp cheddar
To make the dough, combine the flour, butter, cheddar, salt, and pepper in a food processor and process until the dough comes together to form a ball. Place the dough on plastic wrap, cover with more plastic wrap, and immediately roll out to ⅛ inch thick. Place the dough in a removable-bottom tart pan and gently press into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim any extra dough from the edge of the pan and reserve for another use. Place the pan in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
To make the filling, melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, then add the apples and brown sugar and cook, gently stirring on occasion, until slightly softened, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the anise seeds and nutmeg. Set aside to let cool.
Toss the grated cheese into the cooled mixture, then distribute the filling over the bottom of the tart crust. Place on the lower rack of the oven and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the top is slightly caramelized and the cheese has melted. Cool on a rack, then remove from the tart pan. Cut into wedges and serve.
Vanilla Bean Fontainebleau with Pistachio Brittle
Serves 8
If you are a fan of frothy desserts such as zabaglione or sabayon, you will love this version of Fontainebleau, the very airy, creamy dessert typically made from fromage blanc and heavy cream. I love the combination of crème fraîche and goat’s milk yogurt used here. The preparation time is minimal, yet the results will garner applause. You can substitute cow’s milk yogurt for the goat’s milk yogurt, though the lovely tang from the goat’s milk will be missing. Reserve the scraped vanilla bean pod to infuse sugar or spirits. Annie Simmons, my amazing kitchen assistant and talented pastry chef, created the crunchy pistachio brittle that accompanies the Fontainebleau. When making the brittle, have fun playing with different nut mixtures, adding chopped candied orange peel, or stirring in a bit of chopped chocolate as the brittle cools.
⅔ cup goat’s milk yogurt
⅔ cup crème fraîche
Seeds from ½ split and scraped vanilla bean
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1½ teaspoons orange flower water (optional)
4 tablespoons granulated sugar or vanilla-infused superfine sugar
1 egg white
Pistachio Brittle (recipe follows)
12 lightly toasted pistachios, finely chopped
Drain the yogurt and crème fraîche in separate fine-mesh strainers until the liquid stops dripping from them. Combine the crème fraîche, vanilla seeds, orange zest, orange flower water, if using, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a chilled bowl. Using a whisk or an electric mixer, whip until firm peaks are formed. Whisk some air into the yogurt to make it a bit fluffy, and then fold it into the whipped crème fraîche to incorporate.
In a separate dry bowl, whip the egg white until fluffy, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and whip until soft but firm peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the egg white into the crème fraîche mixture until well combined.
Line a strainer or small colander with fine cheesecloth or butter muslin and place over a bowl for draining. Spoon the mixture into the strainer, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the bottom of the refrigerator for 6 hours, or up to overnight to drain and set up. The finished consistency should be like a mousse.
Spoon or pipe the Fontainebleau into chilled parfait glasses and garnish with a shard of pistachio brittle and a sprinkling of finely chopped pistachios. Serve promptly, as the shape will only hold for about 20 minutes.
Makes about 12 ounces
1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sugar
Pinch of cream of tartar
¼ cup water
1 cup lightly toasted pistachios
1 teaspoon flake sea salt
Line a rimmed 10 by 14-inch baking sheet or jelly roll pan with aluminum foil and use the butter to grease the foil. Set the pan aside.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cream of tartar, and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until steam no longer evaporates off the boiling sugar mixture. Turn the heat down to medium and allow the mixture to caramelize, swirling the pan once or twice, until the caramel is a medium amber color. Add the pistachios to the caramel and immediately pour the mixture into the prepared baking sheet, gently tilting the sheet to even out the distribution of the brittle. Be very careful at this step, as the sugar is very hot. Set the pan of brittle on a rack, sprinkle with the salt, and allow to cool completely before breaking into pieces of desired sizes. The brittle can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Ricotta-Filled Chocolate Crepes with Nutella and Sour Cherry Preserves
Makes 12 dessert crepes
Though you’re used to seeing ricotta in lasagna, this recipe showcases the versatility of this creamy cheese. Here it fills chocolate crepes that have been spread with the decadent hazelnut-cocoa spread Nutella and topped with sour cherry preserves and chopped hazelnuts. The crepes can be made a day ahead. Stack them with plastic wrap between them and refrigerate in a resealable plastic bag. They will keep refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for about 1 month. Warm them before using.
CREPES
1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
6 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
2¼ cups whole milk
2 large eggs
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
FILLING AND TOPPING
2 cups fresh ricotta, drained for 1 hour
1 teaspoon confectioners’ sugar
1½ cups Nutella hazelnut-cocoa spread
1½ cups sour cherry or red raspberry preserves, warmed
¾ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts
To make the crepes, in a medium bowl sift together the flour, cocoa, sugar, and salt. In a separate bowl or in a blender, whisk together 2 cups of the milk, the eggs, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and the vanilla. Add one-third of the dry ingredients to the blended liquid and blend until smooth. Repeat twice to blend in the rest of the dry ingredients. Cover and refrigerate the batter for 30 minutes or overnight. When ready to use, whisk the batter thoroughly and add up to ¼ cup more milk if the batter is thicker than runny pancake batter.
Preheat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brush the bottom with melted butter. Ladle enough batter (about ¼ to ⅓ cup) into the pan to just cover the bottom. Immediately lift the pan off the heat and swirl the batter around to cover the bottom of the pan as though you were making an omelette. Cook for about 1 minute, until the edges start to look dry but not crispy and a few steam holes appear in the center. This tells you that there’s enough structure to the crepe to be able to flip it over. Using an offset spatula, turn the crepe over and cook for about 30 seconds. Slide the crepe from the pan onto a plate. Continue the process, brushing the pan with melted butter each time and stacking the crepes until all the batter is used.
To make the filling, put the ricotta and sugar in a bowl and stir until well combined. Spread half of each open crepe with 2 tablespoons of Nutella. Crumble or spread the ricotta over the Nutella. Fold the plain half over the filled half and then fold again into a wedge. Place on a serving plate, top each with 2 tablespoons of preserves and 1 tablespoon of chopped hazelnuts, and serve.
Stone Fruit Phyllo Tarts with Mascarpone-Cardamom Ice Cream
Serves 8
This not-too-sweet dessert has it all: soft, juicy fruit, a crunchy crust, and cardamom-infused ice cream to top it off. Mascarpone, a rich Italian cultured cream, is what makes the ice cream sensational. Cardamom pods work best for infusing the milk, as they keep the color pure, but ground cardamom can also be used. You can use any seasonal ripe, firm stone fruit, though apricots or nectarines are especially wonderful with the cardamom and pistachios.
4 or 5 large ripe but firm nectarines or other stone fruit (1½ pounds)
Juice of 1 orange
1¾ cups unsalted butter
12 sheets phyllo dough
2 teaspoons ground cardamom
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
4 teaspoons plus ¾ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup pistachios, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
Grated zest of 1 orange
1 tablespoon turbinado sugar
Mascarpone-Cardamom Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Blanch the nectarines in a pot of simmering water for 30 seconds, then place in a water bath to cool slightly. Remove the skins, cut the flesh into quarters, and discard the pits. Brush the fruit with orange juice so it does not brown.
Melt 1 cup of the butter in a small saucepan. Lay the sheets of phyllo out on a baking sheet and cover with a slightly damp towel. Combine the cardamom and cinnamon and the 4 teaspoons of granulated sugar in a small bowl.
Lay out 1 sheet of phyllo on a work surface and brush with the melted butter. Sprinkle with some of the sugar-spice mixture, then lay another sheet of phyllo on top, brush with butter, and sprinkle with the sugar-spice mixture. On top of this second sheet, also sprinkle some of the chopped pistachios. Cover with a third layer of phyllo and brush the top with butter. Cut off enough phyllo to form one square large enough to fit into a shallow 10-inch round baking dish with 1½ inches extending over the edges of the dish. Gently place the stack of phyllo into the baking dish and press down into the edges. Leave the excess to encase the fruit before baking. Repeat the layering process three more times. (For individual tarts, cut each stack of 3 sheets into two 7 by 7-inch squares so that you have 8 squares of 3 layers each. Gently place each square into a shallow 4-inch baking ramekin and press down into the edges.)
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Melt the remaining ¾ cup of butter and the ¾ cup of granulated sugar together in a saucepan, stir to combine, and cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves and then begins to caramelize, about 20 minutes. Whisk in the flour, then stir in the zest. Add the nectarines and toss to coat in the mixture, then cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool for 5 minutes, then spoon into the phyllo-lined baking dish (or spoon a portion into each phyllo-lined ramekin). Fold the excess phyllo over the fruit, brush with any remaining melted butter, and sprinkle with the turbinado sugar. Place the baking dish or ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown. Serve warm, topped with the ice cream.
Makes about 1½ quarts
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
6 cardamom pods, crushed, or 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ split and scraped vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
9 large egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
1 cup mascarpone
¼ cup finely chopped pistachios (optional)
Place the milk and cream in a nonreactive saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat to just below the boiling point. Turn off the heat and add the cardamom pods and vanilla bean, if using, cover the pan, and allow the mixture to steep for 40 minutes. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium bowl, pressing firmly against the cardamom pods to release their flavor. Discard the pods and reserve the vanilla bean for another use. Return the flavored milk mixture to the saucepan.
Place the pan over medium-low heat and reheat the mixture to just below the boiling point. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks together with the sugar. Whisking constantly, slowly add about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture to the yolks to temper the eggs. Pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens and coats the back of the spoon (it will be at about 170°F). Do not let the mixture boil, as the eggs will curdle. Remove from the heat and immediately pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer set over a stainless steel bowl. Set the bowl in an ice bath and gently stir the custard for a few minutes to cool it slightly. Whisk in the mascarpone and the vanilla extract, if using. Remove the bowl from the ice bath, cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the custard’s surface, and refrigerate until well chilled. (At this point you have a crème anglaise—a delicious dessert sauce.)
After the custard has chilled, freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Immediately transfer the ice cream to a storage container, cover, and freeze. Serve within 1 hour of freezing, or allow it to soften slightly before serving. Sprinkle with the pistachios before serving, if using.
