Eating for Connection

Cultivating your Identity as Nature

To be human is to be social. The deeper your connections to others, the more you identify with them and feel validated and safe. When your social connections break down, you feel anxious. Where does the rest of nature fit into this? Americans and the redwoods, the British and their White Cliffs, your family and that special tree in the park… nature is a part of your social identity.

Developing a nature-relatedness practice deepens your sense of identity as a part of your habitat. As you progress, you begin to derive well-being benefits and behave in a more collaborative way with all the life that makes up your community. The Pulitzer Prize-winning Harvard evolutionary biologist E. O. Wilson explained in Biophilia:

“It is possible to spend a lifetime in a Magellanic voyage around the trunk of a single tree. [As] the exploration is pressed, it will engage more the things close to the human heart and spirit… humanity is exalted not because we are so far above other living creatures, but because knowing them well elevates the very concept of life.”

Each plate of food you eat presents an opportunity for a Magellan-like journey, even for people in urban jungles, because eating is an exchange with the rest of the natural world—the life that produced your food, the bacteria that lives in your body to break down the nutrients you must absorb, and the life you foster when you burn the energy you consumed. And much of the life you are in exchange with resides under your feet.

Eating: An Act of Exchange

Ninety-five percent of our food grows in soil, one teaspoon of which can contain more life than there are humans on the earth (7.5 billion). Just like every human, the life that makes soil fertile needs water, energy, and carbon. Buried plant matter, decomposed and compressed over millennia, and containing the energy from photosynthesis, becomes the carbon-rich fossil fuels that we extract from the ground. Just as fossil fuels are finite, so too is soil. When soil is stressed by monocropping (continuously farming a single crop and excluding other plants), biodiversity loss, and forest degradation, eventually the soil will fail. It takes 1,000 years to generate about an inch of topsoil, and according to the United Nations, the soil we need to grow food will be eliminated in a few decades if we don’t reverse the current rate of degradation.

The International Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has reported that 89 percent of all agricultural emissions can be mitigated by improving carbon levels in our soil. (Carbon itself is not bad, it is one of the foundations of life for all living things. By valuing carbon’s place in the life cycle, we begin to value the natural role of soil, wetlands, and trees for capturing carbon and removing it from the atmosphere to improve the conditions for people and the rest of life on the planet.) That means that eating to promote a regenerative food system is more complicated than adopting a plant-based diet. Eating to promote a regenerative system requires consideration of how every foodstuff you eat is produced in relationship to the health of the overall ecosystem.

Supporting farmers, politicians, and companies who focus on agroecology helps to make regenerative agriculture a social priority. On a personal level, committing to eat in tune with the seasons and buying from regional producers that have a diverse yield will help you to do research to understand the issues in your local community. These farms will probably produce a smaller yield of each crop than a monocropping system, but often a larger overall yield (with far less chemical input), because they nurture a balanced, regenerative food system instead of trying to control a plot of land. Such farming systems often incorporate domesticated animals reared with the same respect as the family pet, because they play important roles in the ecosystem in the form of supplying natural fertilization and weed control.

Questioning what it takes to put food on your plate is also good practice. It expands your knowledge of how intimately connected all of life is. Along the way, you experience how relating to nature can elevate Wilson’s “very concept of life.”

Humanity is exalted not because we are so far above other living creatures, but because knowing them well elevates the very concept of life

Ritual

Rituals with Nature for Connection: For the Birds

As the year shifts seasons, the population of birds that surround you shift, too. When you rise in the morning, open a window and listen for a minute. What do you hear? Are there times of year when you hear more birdsong than others? We know many birds are migratory, flying to warmer climes during winter and returning to their breeding grounds in spring. In Europe, for example, the ritual of Valentine’s Day originally marked the time of year between the winter solstice and the spring equinox when migratory birds returned, and love was once again literally in the air as those busy pollinators made the world fertile once again. Does the weather impact on the songs of your feathered friends? Birds are great bellwethers that can tune us into the changing seasons, growing patterns, and even the impacts of climate change. Lean in, listen, and routinely connect with the story the birds are trying to tell. Does it match your own?

Ritual

Rituals with Food for Connection: Nature’s New Year

Our January ritual of making New Year’s resolutions was originally practiced at the vernal equinox more than 4,000 years ago. It was in spring as ancient Babylonians readied to sow their seed that they resolved to return tools, pay off debts, and generally be better people to appease the gods and ensure a robust harvest.

I don’t go in for cold turkey New Year’s resolutions, because I think enduring change happens gradually. However, I am inspired by our agricultural ancestors to set intentions to build a nature-related practice with food at nature’s new year in spring, when the earth renews itself, as opposed to the beginning of the calendar year. The ritual recipes offered in this chapter are designed for you to heighten your connection with the reawakening of life throughout the spring, as you develop your nature-relatedness practice from head to hands to habit.

Cheddar and Ale Rarebit

Here is a dish to make in early spring with what remains of the winter pantry. The ingredients are all preserves from the harvest: the flour, the beer, and, of course, cheese is “preserved” milk.

Serves

4

Ingredients

31/2 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2/3 cup stout or dark ale

1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon grated horseradish

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

13/4 cup shredded vegetarian aged cheddar cheese

4 thick slices of sourdough bread

Method

1. Preheat the broiler to medium heat. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir constantly for 2–3 minutes to make a roux, then keep stirring as you pour in the beer. Remove from the heat and mix in the mustard, horseradish, and Worcestershire sauce. Return the pan to low heat, add the cheese, and mix until melted.

2. Toast your bread under the broiler on both sides. Remove, place on a baking sheet, and spoon the cheese mixture over each slice. Sprinkle with a few more drops of Worcestershire sauce and broil for 3–4 minutes, until the cheese is golden and bubbling.

Why don’t we consider all foods to be rare-bits?

How this traditional dish from Wales earned its name is unknown but the consensus is that “rarebit” is a corruption of the word “rabbit.” How fitting for a meal that was served when winter grudgingly gave way to spring, rabbits being an age-old symbol of spring fertility. I suspect all food seemed like “rare” bits to our ancestors.

Leek and Carrot Coconut Soup

Leeks are a hardy plant that can thrive at subzero temperatures. In season from fall to late spring, they remind us that life always finds a way, even in the harshest conditions. Leeks make a hearty soup, enriched by the coconut milk, but you could always omit it and add more broth for a less creamy version.

Serves

6–8

Ingredients

3 tablespoons coconut oil

6 large carrots, peeled and chopped (save the peels for zero-waste carrot powder)

1 large onion, chopped

2 leeks, halved lengthwise, then chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

41/4 cups vegetable broth

13/4 cups coconut milk

2 fresh thyme sprigs

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil in a stockpot over a medium heat before adding the carrots, onion, leeks, garlic, and ginger. Cook for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the broth and coconut milk, bring to a boil, and simmer for 25 minutes.

2. When you have finished your daydreaming, your soup will be ready to serve, either as it is, chunky, or use a handheld immersion blender if you prefer it smooth.

3. If you want, mix some carrot powder with a pinch of salt, pepper, and a few thyme leaves and sprinkle over each bowl before serving.

How is your resilience interconnected with that of the rest of life on the earth?

Legend has it that Saint David advised troops in Wales to pin leeks to their caps in battle to differentiate them from the enemy. Now the national emblem of Wales, leeks became a symbol of resilience, an example of humans reflecting qualities they observe in nature.

Mint and Cilantro Chutney

I like to mix up this vibrant-green mint and cilantro chutney to use on bread, yogurt, or with veggies as a dip for crudités and to breathe in my connection with my surroundings as spring sets in.

Makes

About 1/2 cup

Ingredients

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup finely chopped mint leaves

2 cups finely chopped cilantro, leaves and stems

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon water

Optional

Yogurt

Fresh chile, chopped

Method

1. Grind the garlic, ginger, sugar, and salt in a food processor until coarsely chopped. If you have time, you can also do this using a mortar and pestle. Add the mint and cilantro, a handful at a time. Drizzle in the vinegar and water, and continue to grind to a coarse but creamy consistency.

2. If you want to make the chutney creamier, add 3–4 tablespoons of yogurt to the mix. Or, if you want to make it a little spicy, add a fresh chile to the mix.

What does spring fever feel like?

Nature-related practices nurture feelings of interconnectedness with all forms of life. Think about your connection with mint. Can you imagine your life without it? Mint feels fresh in winter and zingy in spring. From toothpaste to chewing gum to tea, many of us use mint daily to heighten our senses. Mint isn’t just pleasurable, it gives clarity, making us more aware of ourselves and our surroundings.

Chutney-marinated Halloumi Salad

I love the rubbery texture of halloumi, because it makes me slow down and savor the cheese itself. The salt brining process used to preserve the cheese results in its firm texture, which lends itself perfectly to being broiled, fried, or barbecued.

Serves

4

Ingredients

1 pound halloumi, sliced

1/4 cup mint and cilantro chutney (see recipe facing page)

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for broiling

2 onions, sliced in rings

2 heads of mini romaine lettuce, or other lettuce, washed and chopped

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Put the halloumi into a bowl, add the mint chutney and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and stir to coat the halloumi. Cover and marinate for 30 minutes.

2. Warm a skillet with a small splash of olive oil, put the onion rings into the pan, and sauté for 4 minutes, until softened. Push them to the side and place the halloumi in the pan, evenly spaced. Fry on each side for 1–2 minutes, until brown. Remove from the heat.

3. Toss the lettuce with the chutney used for the marinade and add another tablespoon of olive oil and the vinegar. Place your lettuce on serving dishes and top with the warm onions and halloumi. Add a grinding of pepper and some salt of the earth.

Why do we say “the salt of the earth”?

Where does salt come from? The sea. So, when I eat this simple spring salad, I pause and remind myself of the oceans of our blue planet from which the flavor of life literally comes. Salt was once considered so valuable it is the origin for the word “salary.” Chew over the value of small details we often take for granted when whipping up this tasty recipe.

◁ Spring Pea, Mint, and Feta Frittata

Peas, feta, and eggs are a delicious combination for a tasty lunch or light dinner. Pep this up with some of the mint and cilantro chutney and mint leaves to bring a fresh focus to your life.

Serves

4

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 eggs

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup peas (fresh or frozen)

1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese

4 teaspoons mint and cilantro chutney

Fresh mint leaves, to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Warm the olive oil in an ovenproof skillet over low heat, add the onion and garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs, milk, and mustard together. Stir the smoked paprika, salt, and peas into the egg mixture.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the egg mixture. Place the pan in the oven and cook for 10 minutes, until it settles. Remove and sprinkle the crumbled feta cheese on top. Return to the oven for 1 minute to let it soften.

3. Remove from the oven, top with four dollops of mint chutney and sprinkle with fresh mint. Serve warm, straight from the pan.

How might your view of the world be different if the vernal equinox marked your New Year?

Historically, the vernal (spring) equinox marked the beginning of the New Year. Julius Caesar created the month of January, but new-year celebrations only shifted to winter when the clock was invented and we began to shape time ourselves as opposed to aligning our actions with nature’s timepiece, the sun. When the vernal equinox arrives and day becomes equal to night, I pause and consider how I might live my life differently if I aligned my clock with Mother Nature’s. Something to ponder as you make this frittata.

Split Pea Burgers

Try these burgers when you’re feeding a crowd—they’re great served with mint chutney, sauerkraut, or a piece of mint-marinated fried halloumi.

Makes

8

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup finely chopped red onion

11/2 cups shredded carrot (or zucchini, or finely chopped bell pepper, or whatever is on hand and seasonal)

1 garlic clove, minced

13/4 cups finely chopped mushrooms

3 cups vegetable broth

1 cup dried split peas

1/2 cup brown rice

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup dried bread crumbs

3 tablespoons olive oil (optional)

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and carrot and sauté over medium-low heat with a pinch of salt for 5–7 minutes. Add the garlic and mushrooms and sauté for 4 minutes. Add the vegetable broth, split peas, brown rice, coriander, and cumin. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and let simmer for 1 hour, until the peas have been rehydrated. Remove from the heat and let the mix cool for 5 minutes.

2. Working in batches, put the mixture into a blender, one ladleful at a time. Pulse each batch a few times; do not puree. The texture needs to be smooth but still retain some chunkiness. Remove each batch to a mixing bowl before pulsing the next batch. Add the bread crumbs to the bowl and season. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

3. Preheat the broiler to medium hot. Alternatively, heat half the olive oil in a skillet. Use your hands to shape the mixture into 8 patties and then broil or, working in batches, fry for 4 minutes, flip, and cook the other side. Use the remaining oil to fry the second batch. Serve immediately.

How is your life connected with the life in fertile soil?

Mars, best known as the god of war, is also the god of agriculture. In Roman times, the last breath of winter gave way to the first breath of battle as sun, warmth, and food made warfare possible. Mars battled the enemy and the elements, helping to ensure victory on the farmer’s field as well as the campaign. The two were connected. I like to make these split pea burgers and muse about the less-considered connections in my life.

Leek and Hazelnut Risotto

Risotto is one of those dishes that cannot be rushed. It is hard not to feel connected to your food as you stand and stir it for 20 minutes. To make this cooking moment a nature-related one, set an intent before you begin to consider a New Year resolution as you stir. What can you do to develop your understanding of the way all the food you eat connects you to the wider ecosystem?

Serves

4

Ingredients

1 cup chopped hazelnuts

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 small onions, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

4 leeks (about 1 pound), sliced lengthwise and chopped

11/3 cups risotto rice

Scant 1 cup vermouth or dry white wine

23/4 cups hot vegetable broth

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the chopped hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes or until browned. Remove from the oven and place a cloth over them to keep them warm.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and celery and soften for 2 minutes over low heat. Add the garlic and soften for 2 minutes before adding the leeks. After a minute, add the rice. Quickly pour in the vermouth or dry white wine and let the rice absorb the wine as the liquid reduces. Spoon in the hot broth, one ladle at a time, and stir until each ladle of broth has been absorbed before adding the next. Repeat until all the broth has been absorbed, which takes 15–20 minutes, and taste the rice to make sure it is tender but chewy.

3. Turn off the heat and add the hazelnuts and another drizzle of olive oil. Cover and let sit for 2–3 minutes before serving so that the rice absorbs all the flavors.

How do you resolve to be more connected with nature in the “new year”?

View your nature-related resolutions (perhaps becoming a more plant-based eater, a less consumptive shopper, a muscle-power or a public-transport devotee) as long-term goals. Then make a plan that focuses on how to build intent, awareness, new knowledge, and the connections you need to have experiences that help you build a culture and community that better mirrors nature.

◁ Cannellini Beans, Ale, Mustard, and Truffle Stew

This dish is one of my absolute favorite winter into spring meals. Beans are summer crops, but because they dry and preserve well, they remain a staple source of protein in my kitchen throughout the months, when fresh foods are few and far between.

Serves

4

Ingredients

11/4 cups dried cannellini beans

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 medium onion, diced

6 garlic cloves, minced

11/2 cups dark or ruby ale

2 cups vegetable broth

3 tablespoons honey or apple molasses

3 dried bay leaves

3 rosemary sprigs

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup whole-grain mustard, mild to medium heat

2 teaspoons truffle oil

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Put the cannellini beans into a bowl, cover them with water (with room to spare), and let soak overnight.

2. The following day, remove any loose skins. Rinse the beans thoroughly. Put into a saucepan, cover with water, and add the baking soda. Bring to a boil, cook for 10 minutes, and skim off any skins that rise to the surface. After 10 minutes, reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Drain.

3. Warm the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, and sauté for 2 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute before stirring in the drained beans. Pour in the ale, stock, honey or molasses, and herbs. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes.

4. Add the vinegar, mustard, and seasoning and simmer for another 30 minutes–1 hour, depending on taste and how quickly your beans are cooking. If you have any frozen vegetables, add a few handfuls to the stew for some extra color.

5. Remove the herbs, strip the rosemary needles from the sprigs, and chop. Transfer the beans to a serving bowl and sprinkle the rosemary on top. Drizzle the truffle oil over the beans and serve.

How instinctual are your eating choices?

Humans are not the only creatures to rely on beans for protein. Deer, rabbits, and chipmunks are ones that share our taste, a reminder that our diet is shaped by instinct and intellect. Our brains would not have evolved as they have without nutritious food and the need to develop memory and rationality to recall what to eat, where to find it, and how to cook it. Developing a diet that nourishes people and planet requires a balance of instinct and intellect. To kindle both, this spring dish relies on preserves. A seasonal diet mirrors the fact that spring is a time for growth, not abundant harvest.

◁ Rhubarb-marinated Tofu Steaks

Here is a meatless barbecue recipe that highlights one of the most robust vegetables to be harvested in spring, rhubarb. It marries well with spices and soy sauce to make a suitably tangy marinade.

Serves

4

Ingredients

11/4 pounds firm tofu

For the marinade

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 large rhubarb stalks, chopped

1/4 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon apple molasses or maple syrup

2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon cumin

Method

1. Cut your tofu into 8 chunky slices, about 5/8 inch thick. Set aside.

2. Warm the olive oil in a skillet, add the onion, and sauté over medium heat for 3 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add the rhubarb along with the rest of the marinade ingredients. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. After the rhubarb has softened, let the mixture cool slightly, then blend to the consistency of a sauce and cool.

3. Coat the tofu steaks with the sauce and marinate for at least 30 minutes. The longer the marinating time, the more flavor soaks into the steaks. Gently warm the steaks in the marinade until heated through.

4. Alternatively, heat a heavy skillet or a cast-iron griddle pan and grill the steaks for a minute or two on each side, gently warm the remaining sauce, and pour it over the steaks.

How can seasonal eating create balance between vulnerability and resilience?

The vernal equinox is a time of balance. Day and night are of equal length. All life on the planet is experiencing a rebalancing. New life begins to find its roots, tentatively flourishing toward an unknown future. Seasonal eating shifts your experience of life to one that is more harmonious with your habitat. As the foods of spring appear, ask yourself how balanced is your life with the life on which you depend?

Rhubarb and Lentil Curry

In 1837, a variety of rhubarb was created in England in honor of Queen Victoria’s coronation. “Victoria” rhubarb is still prized by gardeners. What kind of rhubarb did you find in the market?

Serves

4

Ingredients

1 cup brown basmati rice or other long-grain rice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons garam masala

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3/4 cup lentils (use what is on hand and check whether they need presoaking)

2 large stalks rhubarb (about 1 pound), chopped into bite-size pieces

1 tablespoon honey

2 handfuls of fresh spinach leaves

Mint and cilantro chutney, to serve

Method

1. Put 2 cups of water and the rice into a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes, or according to package directions, until all the water has been absorbed.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a skillet, add the onion, and sauté for 2 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute before mixing in the ginger and spice. Cook for 2 minutes to release the aromas before adding the lentils and 2/3 cup boiling water, stirring until the water is absorbed. Add the rhubarb, honey, and another 2/3 cup boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender. Stir in the spinach—it will wilt as you combine.

3. Fluff up your rice, transfer to a serving platter, top with the lentils, and serve dolloped with mint chutney.

Why do we celebrate human diversity but opt for conformism with much of the natural world?

There are 250,000 known edible plant species. Today, 75 percent of our food comes from just twelve of them. How boring. How dangerous. Our desire for uniform monocrops is destroying ecosystem biodiversity: the insects, birds, bacteria, and worms that perpetuate the cycle of life. Learning the difference between varieties of common foods helps us connect with biodiversity.

New Potato Salad

In my part of the world, it is hard to miss the excitement when Jersey Royals arrive. Whichever new potato is common in your neck of the woods, pay attention to the timing of its arrival. Persistent spring rains and frost will postpone and lighten the harvest. Serve this seasonal side with the split pea burgers, halloumi salad, pea frittata, or tofu steak.

Serves

6–8 as a side

Ingredients

21/4 pounds Jersey Royals or any local new potato variety

2/3 cup olive oil

2/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 bunch of fresh soft herbs (such as chervil, mint, parsley, or lovage), coarsely chopped

1 red or white onion, thinly sliced

11/3 cups chopped cornichons

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Wash the potatoes and put them whole into a pan with enough salted cold water to cover the potatoes by at least 11/2 inches. Bring to a boil and cook for 5–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to a board.

2. Using a cloth to protect your hand from the heat, gently smash the boiled potatoes so that they split apart (this will help the oil and vinegar to penetrate the skins). Transfer the potatoes to a bowl and add the oil and vinegar while they are still warm. Stir to evenly coat the potatoes, then mix in the herbs, onion, and cornichons. Season with salt and pepper.

Why do we feel a connection with new potatoes, unlike others?

In Elizabethan England, when potatoes from exotic lands reached the court, they were considered aphrodisiacs. Paradoxically, the potato’s reproductive power soon relegated it to peasant food status. From fries to mashed potatoes, our love of potatoes has long since been revived. Yet, it is a love we take for granted—until spring, when the first flavorful “apples of the earth” appear.

Asparagus Salad

The asparagus season is special. When the stalks shoot up from the ground in late spring, asparagus regally adorns menus—as any vegetable with a crown should.

Serves

4 as a side

Ingredients

1 bunch of green asparagus

2/3 cup olive oil

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Prepare the asparagus for steaming by chopping off the woody ends; the stalks will naturally snap where the tender part starts.

2. Boil some water in a shallow saucepan and blanch the asparagus (2–3 minutes for skinnier spears, 4–5 minutes for thicker ones). Drain and lay on a cutting board to cool. Chop the asparagus into thirds and toss with the olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Season and serve.

How can we value all foods as much as we do asparagus?

Throughout its history, the arrival of new-season asparagus has been greeted with a fanfare of joy and relish. Perhaps precisely because its season is so short, we see the benefit of seasonally eating asparagus more than other plants.

Radishes à la française

This simple French dish of crunchy radishes, butter, and salt was enjoyed by market porters in Paris as a midmorning snack. Eating it reminds me that every bite I take is taking a bite out of life.

Serves

4 as a snack

Ingredients

1 large bunch of radishes, preferably a variety with a plump firm bulb

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons (51/2 ounces) butter, softened

3 tablespoons sea salt

Method

1. Wash and dry the radishes and remove the tips that are connected to the roots so that they have a flat bottom. If there are still leafy tops on the radishes, remove the leaves and reserve them for use in a salad.

2. Dip each radish in butter, then brush with salt before eating.

How does your outlook on life change when spring arrives?

Radishes do not have the rock-star status of asparagus. Yet, rewind the clocks and imagine how the peppery snap of a radish must have tasted to humans anxious about the success of the new growing season. Not to mention, finally, some fresh food!

Ritual

Deli-style Dill Pickles

As spring gives way to summer, what do you intend to preserve about your heightened sense of connection to the rest of the natural world since the rebalancing moment of the vernal equinox? Take an afternoon in late spring to consider the question as you transform cucumbers into pickles, creating a crunch for more consideration of connection later in the year.

Makes

2 jars

Ingredients

12 small pickling cucumbers, about 4 inches long

1/3 quantity pickling spice (see below)

6 garlic cloves, halved

2 fresh dill feathery leaves or use 1 tablespoon dried dill

51/2 cups water

1 cup white vinegar

2/3 cup kosher salt

For the pickling spice

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

1 tablespoon juniper seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 heaping teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3 bay leaves, crumbled

2 cinnamon sticks, crumbled

6 whole cloves

Method

1. First make the pickling spice by combining all the spices. This amount makes enough to use for three recipes. Use one-third for this recipe; store the rest in a sealed jar for several months.

2. Wash the cucumbers (halve or quarter them if they are chunky) and pack them upright into sterilized jars (see here for how to sterilize the jars). Evenly divide half the spice mix between the jars; do the same with half the garlic and half the dill.

3. Combine the water, vinegar, and salt in a large bowl, stirring until the salt dissolves, add the remaining spice mix, garlic, and dill, then pour over the pickles to submerge. Let the jars stand at room temperature for 24 hours with the lids slightly open. After 24 hours, taste and add more vinegar, if you want.

4. If you want to keep the pickles for many months, process them following the method shown here, or seal the jar and store in the refrigerator for three days and eat within a week or two.

A cucumber is 95 percent water. About 60 percent of your body is water. You have to drink water; you don’t produce it and that exchange facilitates more exchange with the natural world. Water is critical to enable you to absorb minerals and nutrients from food, to facilitate your organ functions, and to remove toxins from your body. Making pickles is a tangible reminder of exchange as you watch the salt and sugar draw water from the cucumbers to create this refreshing summer snack.

Baby Broccoli, Chickpeas, and Tahini

Seasonal leafy veggies adds a colorful crunch to a warm salad with a tahini dressing. Eating early spring’s baby broccoli in season is one way to align ourselves with the phases of nature.

Serves

2 as a main, 4 as a side

Ingredients

8 ounces baby broccoli

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 (15-ounce) can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Small bunch of radishes, thinly sliced and green parts (if included) chopped

For the dressing

1/4 cup tahini

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons sunflower seeds

Method

1. First make the dressing by whisking together the tahini, vinegar, honey, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Add a tablespoon of water, if the tahini needs cutting, to become runny. Whisk in the extra virgin olive oil. Mix in the seeds.

2. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Chop the woody ends off the baby broccoli and slice the stems lengthwise. Boil for 3–4 minutes, until just tender, drain, and rinse with cold water. Spread on a clean dish towel to dry the leaves.

3. Preheat the broiler. Warm 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet, add the chickpeas, and red pepper flakes, and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, until warm. Toss the broccoli in another tablespoon of oil and put under the broiler for 1–2 minutes, until lightly charred. Turn off the heat for the chickpeas, add the broccoli to the pan, and mix. Transfer to a serving bowl, add the radishes, and toss with the dressing.

How would the pace of your life differ if you aligned time with the earth’s orbit around the sun?

In sixteenth-century France, Charles IX tried to move the agricultural new year in spring to the calendrical new year in winter. Rural folk protested, and farmers couldn’t fathom celebrating new year in dormant winter. City dwellers saw this as backward thinking: Why should human progress be subject to nature? Have we have come full circle in our thinking?

Roasted Carrot Couscous

Roasting transforms spring carrots, making them all the sweeter, and turning a simple couscous into a complete meal.

Serves

4

Ingredients

6 carrots, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces (reserve peels to make zero-waste carrot powder)

1/4 cup olive oil

11/3 cups couscous

Rind of a quarter of preserved lemon, optional

11/2 cups hot vegetable broth

1 small onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cumin

Salt and pepper

Torn parsley or cilantro leaves, to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Put the carrots onto a large baking sheet and toss to coat in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season and roast for 15–20 minutes, until tender.

3. Put the couscous into a bowl, add a tablespoon of oil and the preserved lemon (if using), and mix. Pour the hot broth over the couscous. Cover with a clean dish towel and rest for 10 minutes.

4. Heat another tablespoon of the oil in a skillet, add the onion and garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes before adding the walnuts, chili powder, and cumin. Cook for another 2 minutes. Fluff your couscous and lay on a serving platter, top with roasted carrots, and sprinkle with the onion-and-nut mixture. Add fresh herbs and serve.

How does cooking help you to understand that you are in constant exchange with the rest of the natural world?

Each day 7 percent of your body mass is exchanged as you breathe, eat, drink, and move. What you are at the start of the day is not what you are at the end of it. Why? Because nature is not OUT there, it is IN you. When I cook and see other life transformed in heat, water, and contact with other elements, it helps me to visualize how my body is constantly changing in exchange with all the visible and invisible elements of my environment.

◁ Carrot Gnocchi

Homemade gnocchi are comfort food at its best. I like to make them with carrots instead of the traditional all-potato version.

Serves

4

Ingredients

2 large baking potatoes (about 1 pound)

3 medium carrots (about 6 ounces), peeled (save the skins to make carrot powder) and thinly sliced

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon salt

13/4 cups “00” Italian pasta flour or cake flour or 12/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra as needed

Salt and pepper

To serve

Preserved tomato sauce or pesto

or

1/4 cup olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

Handful of chopped sage

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Pierce the skins of the potatoes a few times and bake for about 1 hour, until soft. Toward the end of the cooking time, drop the carrots into a saucepan of boiling water and boil until soft, about 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly, then puree in a food processor. Halve the potatoes, scoop out the flesh, and push through a potato ricer. Transfer the pureed carrots and potato into a bowl, add the egg, and salt and mix.

2. Gradually add the flour, about 2 heaping tablespoons at a time, kneading to form a dough that is stiff but still a little sticky. Tear off a small piece and drop into boiling water. If it holds its shape, the dough is ready. If not, add more flour and test another piece. Once you’re happy with it, cut the dough into four pieces.

3. Flour a work surface and roll each piece into a 3/4-inch-thick log. Use a knife to cut into bite-size lengths that resemble pillows. Keep them they are, or press your thumb into the center of each one, bring in the sides, then roll each one against the tines of a fork to create ridges. Put onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

4. Fill a large saucepan with salted water and bring to a boil. Add the gnocchi, a handful at a time, and cook for 4–5 minutes, until they float to the top and are firm. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a wire rack and cover with a dish towel to keep warm while you cook the rest.

5. To serve, gently warm the tomato sauce or pesto. Alternatively, heat the olive oil in a skillet and add the garlic, sage, and seasoning. Remove your chosen sauce from the heat after 3–4 minutes, coat the gnocchi, and toss before serving.

What is the difference between humans forcing and nurturing nature?

Although we associate carrots with spring, the carrot season usually doesn’t come until early summer, weather dependent. So why are local carrots often available any time of the year? As colder days set in, farmers lay blankets of straw on top of their carrot crops to warm the soil system, making year-round harvest possible. Is that forcing or nurturing nature?

◁ Sweet Rhubarb Pie

I love baking pies to share with friends and, as I do, I lend a thought to what secrets the plant that provided my filling shared with me. This one is all rhubarb but, when strawberry season arrives, I mix strawberries and rhubarb together for a delicious combination. A little vinegar in the dough gives a tang to the buttery pastry, a flavor I recall from my childhood days.

Serves

8

Ingredients

For the dough

22/3 cups organic all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

2 tablespoons sugar

3/4 cup (6 ounces) butter

1 egg

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1/4 cup ice-cold water

Salt

For the filling

21/2 pounds rhubarb, chopped

11/2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla sugar

4 tablespoons butter

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F and lightly grease a 9 x 7-inch pie dish.

2. Put the flour, sugar, butter, and a pinch of salt into a bowl and blend by crisscrossing two knives, or rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg, vinegar, and water. Pour into the dry ingredients and mix into a ball using your hands.

3. Divide the ball in half and put one half in the refrigerator. Roll out the second half on a lightly floured surface until about 1/8 inch thick and use to line the pie dish, letting the edges overhang.

4. Mix the rhubarb, sugar, flour, cinnamon, and vanilla in a large bowl and then pour it into your dough-lined dish. Dot the filled pie with the butter.

5. Thinly roll out the other piece of dough until just bigger than the top of the dish. Lay over the filling, trim off the excess dough, and pinch the top and bottom dough edges together to seal the pie. Make a few cuts in the top so the pie can breathe. Use any leftover scraps to make shapes to decorate your crust.

6. Cook in the middle of the oven for about 1 hour, checking after 40 minutes to make sure the crust doesn’t burn. Cool slightly before serving.

How do plants communicate with you?

I grow rhubarb from seed on my balcony in Copenhagen. In late April, fists of leaves emerge from the soil, unfurling to serve as sun-soaking umbrellas, powering the stalks to grow. I realize it is the plant, not me, in charge of the growing process. I am the nurturer, doing my best to read its signals, like a new parent with a crying baby. I think of the human-plant relationship similarly. I provide good soil, water, shade, proximity to pollinators, and, if I read the plant’s signals correctly, I am rewarded with rhubarb.

Rhubarb and Mint Sodas

We all need to give ourselves a few moments of space. I pause to connect to my inner nature as nature when I slowly sip on a homemade soda and ponder how I am in constant process of exchange. This syrup is enough for four refreshing rhubarb and mint sodas or, spiked with 1/4 cup of vodka or gin, four cocktails.

Makes

1 cup syrup

Ingredients

For the syrup

1 cup sugar

11/4 cups water

1 stalk of rhubarb (about 10 ounces), chopped

For the soda

Sprig of mint

1/4 cup syrup

Ice

Sparkling water

Method

1. Put the sugar and water into a saucepan over low heat and stir constantly until the sugar dissolves. Add the rhubarb and steep for 20 minutes. Strain the rhubarb and store the syrup in the refrigerator for a week. Munch the rhubarb as it is, or serve over ice cream.

2. Rub a mint leaf in your fingers to release the oil and then run it around the rim of a tall glass filled with ice. Pour in the syrup, top with sparkling water, and add the mint.

What stops you from taking time to plug in to your environment?

Sometimes all we need to connect is quiet. Carve out 20 minutes for yourself one spring day and make this drink. Marvel at the transformation of fibrous rhubarb to bittersweet syrup. Smell the mint leaves and take a deep breath. When your soda is ready, find a place outdoors or by an open window and one sip at a time make a sensual memory of the moment. Listen to the sounds around you, consider the wind, the light, the sun, and just let yourself be a human who is simply being.

Elderflower Syrup

The delicate clusters of white blossoms that emerge on elderberry (Sambucus) trees in late spring, emit an intoxicating aroma in the morning, which is when their favored pollinators are most active. That is the time of day to gather elderflowers. Make sure you make your syrup (sometimes labeled as a cordial on imported syrup) immediately after gathering the flowers to capture the aroma.

Makes

About 2 (750-millilter/25.4-ounce) bottles

Ingredients

About 20 elderflower heads

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

13/4 cups sugar for every 21/2 cups of steeped liquid

Sparkling wine or water, to serve

Method

1. Dust off any insects from the elderflowers. Don’t rinse the heads, however, or you will lose the fragrance. Sterilize the bottles, their stoppers, and a funnel (see here for the sterilizing method.)

2. Put the elderflowers into a large saucepan and cover with enough water to completely submerge the flowers. Add the lemon zest and juice and simmer for 30 minutes, making sure the flowers remain submerged. Remove from the heat and let steep overnight.

3. The next day, strain the liquid into a saucepan through a sieve lined with cheesecloth, squeezing the flowers to extract all the liquid. Measure the liquid and for every 21/2 cups, add 13/4 cups of sugar. Place the pan over low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer for 3–5 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Pour the syrup into your bottles, using a funnel, and seal with a swing-top stopper or screw-top cap.

4. To serve, fill a chilled champagne flute one-third full with elderflower syrup and top with sparkling wine or water.

How do trees provide for your life and make your life worth living?

There was a time when we worshipped trees. How sensible! They perfume the air, purify the atmosphere, anchor and enrich soil, fill our pantry with fruit, nuts, and syrup, and provide wood to build those pantries. Give a toast of gratitude to trees with a glass of elderflower “champagne.”