Troubleshooting and Repairing Major Appliances

CHAPTER

Front Load Automatic Washers

The front load automatic washer has been around for decades. The first ones that I ever serviced were a General Electric front load automatic washer and dryer combination and a Westinghouse front load automatic washer back in the late 1970s. Today the front load automatic washer is a complex electromechanical machine, and Figure 19-1 is used as an example only. Today’s service technician will need to know how to service electronic controls, thermistors, sensors, inverter boards, and variable speed motors. You must be able to read wiring diagrams, technical data sheets, and service manuals. I also recommend that you attend a training class on front load automatic washers.

FIGURE 19-1 Parts identification and location in a front-loading automatic washer.

Principles of Operation

The front load automatic washer presents a number of new features and operating characteristics quite different from the top load automatic washers (see the use and care guide for the model you are working on). In addition to the front-loading operation, the washer contains a number of unique operating features designed to increase clothes cleaning ability while offering very high water and energy conservation.

The clothes are placed evenly into the washer basket, making sure that the washer is not overloaded and that the proper cycle is selected. The user then adds detergent, bleach, or fabric softener to the dispenser drawer located in the front top section of the washer (read the use and care instructions for the model being serviced). The user will select a cycle and all options for the intended wash load, and then activates the washer through the cycle selector knob and starts the washer. On all front load models, the washer door will lock until the wash cycle ends or the user interrupts the cycle to add clothing to the wash cycle.

All wash and rinse water enters the wash basket through the water fill hoses, the water inlet valves, and the water inlet hose through the dispenser system. The amount of water that enters the wash basket is controlled by a preprogrammed fill through the electronic control board. Some models have a flowmeter sensor that monitors the amount of water entering the wash basket. As the flowmeter tracks the amount of water (about 10.5 gallons maximum), and if the electronic control board has not detected the water level control switch (pressure switch) indicating a full wash basket, an error code will appear and the water will shut off. On some models, the front load washer will maintain the proper fill level using an adaptive fill preprogrammed into the electronic control board. A heating element is used on some models to increase the water temperature on certain wash cycles.

The inner basket will begin to rotate in a direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) at a predetermined speed that is preprogrammed into the electronic control board. Then the inner basket will pause for a predetermined amount of time and then begin to turn in the opposite direction at a predetermined speed. The length of wash tumble time is adaptive to the soil level programmed into the electronic control board at the start of the cycle.

When the preprogrammed tumble wash is completed, the inner basket comes to a halt and the drain pump motor will begin to drain the wash water from the front load washer. The spin cycle is designed to remove as much water and detergent as possible without harming the clothes. Spin speeds can be as low as 90 rpm to as high as 1000 rpm. The spin speeds are controlled by the cycle selection the user chooses at the beginning of the cycle. The spin speed and/or duration of final spin vary from cycle to cycle. Increasing the spin speed will extract more water and detergent, decreasing drying time and conserving energy. Decreasing the spin speed will reduce wrinkling. On some models, if you use no spin at the end of the cycle, the clothes will be very wet and they will have to be line dried. Some models use brief sprays of water to remove any soap or dirt residue remaining on the clothes in the spin cycle.

When the wash cycle ends, the door will unlock and the clothes can be removed from the washer and placed into the dryer for drying.

Functions and Cycles

The removal of soil from clothing and fabrics is accomplished by a combination of mechanical and chemical processes:

• Mechanical process Soil is removed by tumbling the clothes and by forcing the detergent through the clothing.

• Chemical process The HE (high-efficiency) detergent used will dissolve and loosen the soil in the clothing. Also the tumbling action of a front load washer is gentler on the clothing, allowing more air to be added to the water as the clothes are plunged into and lifted out of the water. As the front load washer operates through its cycles, it is aided by hot, soft water, which increases the chemical processes of the detergent being used.

Front load washing machines perform four basic functions, which are modified and put together in different ways to create the various cycles. The four functions are:

• Fill

• Tumble wash (clockwise or counterclockwise)

• Drain

• Spin

Safety First

Any person who cannot use basic tools or follow written instructions should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any automatic front load washers. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of personal injury or property damage.

If you do not fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair procedures in this chapter, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on the front load automatic washer, please call your service manager.

The following precautions should also be followed:

• Never bypass or disconnect any part or device (originally designed into the washer) as a temporary repair.

• Always reconnect all ground wires, and be sure that they are secure.

• Be careful of moving parts and sharp edges.

Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory of the safety procedures in Chapter 2.

Automatic Front Load Washers in General

Much of the troubleshooting information in this chapter covers automatic front load washers in general, rather than specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service techniques. The pictures and illustrations that are used in this chapter are for demonstration purposes only, to clarify the description of how to service front load washing machines and in no way reflect a particular brand’s reliability.

Location and Installation of Automatic Front Load Washers

The following are some general principles that should be followed when performing the installation of a washing machine:

• Locate the washing machine where there is easy access to existing drain, water, and electrical lines.

• Be sure you observe all local codes and ordinances for the electrical and plumbing connections.

• The washing machine should be installed and leveled on a firm floor to minimize vibration and possible washer “walk” during operation.

• Do not install the washing machine in an area where the temperature might be below freezing.

• To reduce the risk of a fire, never install a washing machine on any type of carpet.

• Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on washer installation clearances.

• Always follow the installation instructions that are provided with every new front load washing machine model purchased.

Common Installation Problems

Front load automatic washer installations are not complicated. However, as a service technician, you will come across a front load washer that has not been installed according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The following sections describe some of the problems that you might run into and how to solve them.

When you arrive at a service call and the consumer tells you that the washer is full of water and it will not drain out, check for the following:

• The drain hose is kinked.

• The drain hose has a blockage.

• The drainpipe might be too small, not allowing for proper venting. The drainpipe must be a minimum of 1½ inches in diameter.

• The drainpipe and the drain hose were installed over six feet above the floor.

If the consumer tells you the washer will not fill up with water or it enters slowly, check the following:

• The water faucets were never turned on or they were turned on only a little bit.

• There is a blockage in the water inlet screen. The consumer did not flush out the water lines before installing the hoses on the washer.

• The water might be used somewhere else in the home. Check the water pressure (see use and care guide or installation instructions).

• When the washer is filling with water, the water is siphoning out through the drain line. The drainpipe is too low or the wrong size diameter. You might have to install a siphon break kit at the end of the drain hose.

When you arrive at the service call, you notice water on the floor. Check the following:

• The water hoses to the water inlet valve.

• The water faucet might be leaking.

• The drain hose is not connected properly to the washer.

• The drain hose comes out of the drainpipe.

• The drainpipe might have a blockage.

• The household drain cannot handle the capacity of the discharge water.

When the washer goes into the spin cycle, it will begin to vibrate and walk across the floor. Check the following:

• The feet or leveling legs on the washer are not set properly, causing the washer to teeter-totter.

• Is the washer level?

• Is the floor level?

• Check and see if the packing and shipping straps have been removed. Read the installation instructions on removing the packing straps.

Water Supply

The water supply for an automatic front load washer should have a hot and cold faucet located within four to six feet of the washer. The faucets should be a 3/4-inch threaded type to accept the fill hose connection.

The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 pounds per square inch for the washer to operate properly. The water coming out of the fill hoses should be equal in both pressure and in the volume of water to prevent unacceptable water temperature changes when entering and filling the washer.

The hot water supply to the washer should be between 130 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit. If the hot water temperature is below 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the clothes being washed will not clean properly and the detergent will not dissolve properly. You can check the temperature of the hot water by opening the hot water faucet near the washer. Let the water run until it is as hot as possible, and then insert a thermometer into the stream of water. If the thermometer reading is below 130 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater thermostat setting. On some front-loading models, the manufacturer has incorporated an electric heater in the washer to heat the water to 153 degrees Fahrenheit for select wash cycles.

The cold water temperature should be between 70 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. When the washer is in its rinse stage, the cold water will prevent wrinkles from setting into the fabrics. Some fabric manufacturers require that their fabrics be washed in cold water, both to prevent shrinkage and to eliminate the possibility of destroying the fabric. When the user selects the warm fill, the temperature of the water should be 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is recommended that the consumer read the use and care manual before performing a wash. Most use and care manuals have a water temperature guide to assist the user in the proper selection of the water temperature.

Drain Requirements

The drain to which the washer’s drain hose is connected must be able to accept at least a 17- to 20-gallon-per-minute flow in order to remove the water from the tub. The standpipe should be at least 30 inches in height and no higher than 96 inches. The internal diameter of the drainpipe should be a minimum of 1½ inches in order to provide an air gap around the drain hose and thus to prevent the suction from siphoning the water out of the tub during the wash cycle. To select the proper drain hose installation method for the front load washer model, see the installation instructions that came with the washer.

Electrical Requirements

The front load automatic washer must be plugged into a 120 volt, 60 Hz, alternating current (AC) electrical power supply only. The washer must be connected to a separate 15 or 20 amp time-delay fuse or circuit breaker, and the three-prong receptacle must have the correct polarity (see Chapter 6). The washer must be grounded according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Two-prong receptacles must not be used. Do not remove the ground prong or plug the washer cord into an adapter. Have an electrician change out the receptacle and replace it with a three-prong receptacle. Also, never use an extension cord on an appliance; this could result in fire, electrical shock, or death.

HE (High-Efficiency) Detergent

The only type of detergent that can be used with a front load automatic washer is HE (high-efficiency) detergent. Soap manufacturers are producing HE detergent for all of the front load automatic washers manufactured today. These detergents are formulated for use in low water volume washers. By using a non-HE detergent, the front load washers wash system, along with less water usage, will create oversudsing, washer errors, longer cycle times, and reduced rinsing performance. In addition, it may cause component failures and mold and mildew problems within the wash system. For more information on detergents go to www.cleaninginstitute.org.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting by Symptom Diagnosis

Washer Will Not Turn On

1. Is the washer plugged in? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit.

2. Check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.

3. Check for voltage at the main electronic control board. On some models you will hear a click when the washer is plugged in.

4. Check for continuity in the service cord and the line filter.

5. Check connection and wiring on the electronic control board.

6. Plug in the washer and try starting it again. If necessary, reprogram to another cycle and try to restart.

7. Check touchpad/LED assembly. Try another cycle.

8. If washer has not been turned off, check for an overheated motor. After a cooldown period of 30 minutes, the motor should restart.

Washer Will Not Start the Cycle

1. Open and close the washer door. Between consecutive wash cycles the door has been opened.

2. Place washer in the service mode, and run the diagnostic test to check the door lock assembly for proper operation.

3. If the door is locked, use the diagnostic test to drain the washer.

4. Disconnect the power to the washer.

5. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

6. Reconnect the power to the washer.

7. Check touchpad/LED assembly. Try another cycle.

The Washer Will Not Shut Off

1. Check for an error/fault code on the display console.

2. Cancel the wash cycle.

3. Check touchpad/LED assembly. Try another cycle.

4. Disconnect the power to the washer.

5. Check the drain pump, drain hose, and the drain pump filter for obstructions.

6. Reconnect the power to the washer.

7. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operation.

Electronic Control Will Not Accept Any Selections

1. Check for an error/fault code on the display console.

2. Check the drain pump, drain hose, and the drain pump filter for obstructions.

3. Check touchpad/LED assembly. Try another cycle.

4. Disconnect the power to the washer.

5. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

6. Reconnect the power to the washer.

7. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operation.

The Washer Will Not Dispense Chemicals

1. Is the washer level? Check washer installation.

2. Check the dispenser drawer for chemicals that might be clogged in the dispenser.

3. Check all water connections to the washer and throughout the washer for obstructions. Also, check for a clogged water valve inlet screen.

4. Check dispenser motor assembly.

5. Disconnect the power to the washer.

6. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

7. Reconnect the power to the washer.

8. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operation.

Washer Will Not Fill or Enters Slowly

1. Check washer installation. Check that both water faucets are open all the way. Check for low water pressure.

2. Disconnect the power to the washer.

3. Check water inlet valves.

4. Check all water connections to the washer and throughout the washer for obstructions or kinked hoses. Also, check for a clogged water valve inlet screen.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Check the pressure switch for proper operation.

7. Check the drain pump motor.

8. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operation.

9. Check under the problem “The Washer Will Not Dispense Chemicals.”

The Washer Overfills

1. Check washer installation.

2. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify drain pump system.

3. Check the pressure switch for proper operation.

4. Check the pressure switch hose from the outer drum to the switch.

5. Check the flowmeter for proper operation.

6. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operation.

Washer Drum Will Not Rotate

1. Check drive belt.

2. Check the drive motor for proper operation.

3. Disconnect the power to the washer.

4. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operations for the drive motor.

Washer Drive Motor Overheats

1. Check the drive motor.

2. Disconnect the power to the washer.

3. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

4. Check the drive motor belt.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operations for the drive motor.

7. If washer has not been turned off, check for an overheated motor. After a cooldown period of 30 minutes, the motor should restart.

Washer Will Not Drain or Drains Slowly

1. Disconnect the power to the washer.

2. Check the wiring harness and the plug connectors.

3. Check the drain pump, drain hose, and the drain pump filter for obstructions.

4. Reconnect the power to the washer.

5. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operations.

6. Check drain hose installation. The maximum standpipe height is 96 inches. See washer installation instructions.

Washer Will Not Spin

1. Check dispenser drawer. On some models the drawer must be completely closed.

2. Check washer door. It must be closed.

3. On some models the wash load may be too small. Add more clothes.

4. Disconnect the power to the washer.

5. Check belt.

6. Check drive motor.

7. Reconnect the power to the washer.

8. Check for error/fault code.

9. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operations.

Front Load Washer Vibrates and Walks

1. Check for removal of shipping bolts and packing materials.

2. Check washer installation.

3. Make sure washer is level. Check the leveling feet.

4. Wash load may not be evenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange clothing.

Washer Has Incorrect Water Temperature

1. Check that the water inlet hoses are connected properly.

2. Disconnect the power to the washer.

3. Check the water heater element and the wire connections.

4. Check the water temperature sensor.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Place washer in service mode, and run diagnostic test to verify electronic control board operations.

Flashing Display

1. Check for an error/fault code.

High-Pitched Noise

1. When the motor goes into spin, a certain high-pitched whining noise is normal.

Clanking and Rattling Noises

1. Stop the washer and check for foreign objects in the drum.

2. Restart the washer; if noises continue, stop the washer again.

3. Disconnect the power to the washer.

4. Check pump assembly for foreign objects.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer. Run washer.

6. Sometimes belt buckles or metal fasteners are hitting the drum. Check use and care instructions for proper handling of items.

Squealing Noises or Burning Rubber Odor

1. Check and see if washer is overloaded.

2. Reduce wash load.

3. Disconnect the power to the washer.

4. Inspect drive motor belt.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Test washer operation.

Thumping Sounds While Washer Is Running

1. Heavy wash loads may produce thumping sounds. This is normal.

2. Check washer installation.

3. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Water Leaks

1. Check for loose fill hoses.

2. Disconnect the power to the washer.

3. Check the drain pump, drain hose, and the drain pump filter.

4. Check the tub gasket (boot) for holes.

5. Reconnect the power to the washer.

6. Test washer operation and inspect for other water leaks. If still leaking water, immediately turn off the power and repair washer.

Oversudsing

1. Check for wrong detergent used. Only use HE detergent.

2. Check for too much detergent used.

3. Run washer through several rinse cycles to remove excess suds.

4. Advise customer to use less detergent for future wash loads.

Incorrect Wash and Rinse Water Temperatures

1. Check fill hoses are connected correctly.

2. Check water pressures.

Water Is Entering Tub But Tub Will Not Fill with Water

1. Drain hose was improperly installed. The standpipe must be a minimum of 24 inches high to prevent siphoning.

2. See installation instructions for proper installation.

Common Washability Problems

If there are no mechanical problems with the washer’s operation and the complaints are that the washer does not clean the clothes properly, you have a washability problem. The next step should be to look at the cause that best describes the problem that the customer is experiencing with the washer. Then proceed to correct the problem. If necessary instruct the user on how to get better results from the automatic front load washer.

Stains on the Clothing

Stains on clothing can be caused by a number of different things. As the servicer, you will have to determine if it is caused by the washer’s components or an external source. This type of problem is related to the increasing use of synthetic fabrics and to the poor washing practices of the user. Many of these stains consist of cooking oil or grease and are not visible when they first occur during cooking or eating. The oil that is embedded in the clothing acts like glue, attracting dirt from the wash water. When the wash cycle is completed, the clothes come out dirty and spotted.

Chemical Safety

There are some safety concerns that should be followed to reduce the risk of fire or serious injury to people or property:

• When using stain removal products always read and comply with the instructions listed on the container.

• Keep stain removal products in their original container and out of reach of children.

• Utensils used to assist in removing stains should be washed thoroughly.

• Never combine stain removal products such as chlorine bleach and ammonia. The fumes from both of these chemicals can make you very sick or kill you.

• Never wash clothing or items that have been soaked in, washed in, or spotted in gasoline, dry-cleaning solvents, or other flammable or explosive substances. These substances give off vapors that will ignite and explode causing property damage and/or personal injury or death.

• Never use flammable solvents or chemicals inside the home. Vapors can explode on contact with flames or sparks. Be careful and safe.

Stain Removal

The following are some stain-removal rules for clothing in general:

• Stains are easier to remove when they first appear on the clothing. If the stains are old, they might never come out of the clothing.

• Before attempting to remove any stain, you must know what type of stain, what kind of fabric, and how old is the stain?

• Use only cold or warm water to remove stains. Hot water will set the stain permanently into the fabric.

• When bleach is recommended for the removal of the stain, use a bleach that is safe for the fabric. When using a chlorine bleach, always dilute it with water to prevent the bleach from destroying the fibers.

• Always test stain remover products on a hidden corner of the garment to see if the color remains in the fabric.

• When preparing to remove the stain from the fabric, face the stained area down on a paper towel or a white cloth. Then apply the stain remover to the back of the stain so that the stain will be forced off the fabric, instead of through the fabric.

• Some protein stains can be removed with an enzyme presoak or with meat tenderizer.

• When using dry-cleaning solvents, always use them in a well-ventilated room, away from flames and sources of ignition to prevent personal injury or death.

• Alcoholic beverage stains turn brown the longer they stay on the fabric. As soon as the stain appears on the fabric, start treating it immediately. Wash or soak the stain in cold water, and then wash the garment.

• To remove blood stains, rinse or soak the garment in cold water with an enzyme presoak product. You can use diluted chlorine bleach on white fabrics, if necessary. For colored fabrics, use a powdered oxygen-type bleach. Then wash the garment.

• To remove chewing gum, use ice on the stain to make the chewing gum hard. Then scrape most of it off the fabric. Next, use a nonflammable dry-cleaning solvent with a sponge to remove the excess chewing gum. Wash the garment.

• To remove coffee or chocolate stains, soak the garment in warm or cold water. Next, make a paste of detergent mixed with hot water, and brush it on the stain. Wash the garment.

• To remove a milk product stain, use a nonflammable dry-cleaning solvent with a sponge. Wash the garment.

• To remove antiperspirant and deodorant stains, wash the garment with laundry detergent in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric. If the stain remains on the fabric, place the stain face down on a white towel, and treat the stain with a paste of ammonia and a powdered oxygen-type bleach. Let the paste stay on the stain for 30 minutes, and then wash the garment in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric.

• To remove fruit stains, soak the stain in cool water. Do not use soap—it will set the stain. Wash the garment. If the stain remains, cover the stain with a paste made of a powdered oxygen-type bleach, a few drops of hot water, and a few drops of ammonia. Let the paste stay on the stain for about 15 to 30 minutes. Then wash the garment.

• To remove iron or rust stains, apply some lemon juice mixed with salt. Then place the garment in the sun. Alternatively, a commercial rust-removing solution can be used. Wash the garment.

• To remove the stains caused by dairy products other than milk or baby formula, use a product containing enzymes to pretreat or soak the stains for 30 minutes or more and then place in the wash.

• To remove crayons or candle wax, scrape off excess wax from fabric. Then place the stain face down between paper towels. Use a warm iron on fabric until the wax is absorbed into the paper towel. Replace the paper towels frequently. Next, pretreat the fabric with a prewash stain remover or a nonflammable dry-cleaning fluid. Hand-wash the fabric to remove the solvent and then place in the washer.

• To remove chocolate or grass stains, pretreat or soak the fabric in warm water using a product containing enzymes. Next, place fabric in the washer and use a bleach safe for the fabric.

Yellowing in Fabric

Some causes of yellowing in fabrics are:

• Poor body soil removal

• Clothes washed in water treated with a water softener

• Hard water or minerals in the water, such as iron

• Body oils released into the garment

• The water supply might pick up the color of decaying vegetation

To remove body oils, the user will have to increase the amount of detergent and use 150-degree Fahrenheit wash water. The user must also increase the frequency of using bleach in the wash.

To remove the yellowing from garments that are washed in water treated with a water softener, the user will have to decrease the amount of detergent used, approximately to the point that the decreased amount will not affect the soil removal process. The user must also increase the frequency of using bleach in the wash.

Hard water and minerals in the water can be treated with a water-conditioning apparatus. The user might have to drain the water heater and flush the tank. Never use chlorine bleach to remove hard water stains or iron stains.

To remove body oils from the garment, use a paste made of detergent and water. Let it stay on the fabric for 15 to 30 minutes. Then wash the garment.

To remove the yellowing caused by decaying vegetation, increase the amount of detergent, and bleach more often. White fabrics typically respond quite well to bleaching.

Fabric Softener Stains

Fabric softener stains are becoming more prevalent because it is now being recommended that some fabric softeners be used in the wash cycle, instead of the rinse cycle. These types of stains show up on synthetics as well as cotton fabrics. They can be removed from the fabric by pretreating the stain with liquid detergent and following the washing procedures listed in the use and care manual.

Lint

Lint is cotton fiber that has broken away from the cotton garment. Lint likes to attach itself to synthetic fabrics. When this happens, the user often thinks that the washer is not performing properly. Therefore, to solve the problem of lint on synthetic fabrics, the user must sort the items before washing the clothes. For example:

• The user must separate cottons from permanent press and knits.

• The user must separate light colors from dark colors.

Another cause of lint on clothes is overwashing. This causes the clothes to wear out faster. To correct the overwashing problem, use only one minute of wash time per pound of dry laundry with normal soil. Any more time than this is a waste, and it usually does not get the laundry cleaner.

If the drain cycle is excessive, this, too, will cause lint to remain on the garments.

Check for improper drain hose connections. For example:

• Drain hose is too long (over 10 feet).

• Drain hose is too high (over 8 feet).

• Drain hose is kinked.

If excessive drain times still exist, check the following:

• Check the drain pump filter, located at the bottom front of the washer.

• Check that the drain pump is operating properly.

• Check for any obstructions in the drain system.

• Check for any obstructions within the water circulatory system of the washer.

Automatic Washer Maintenance

The interior is normally self-cleaning. However, there are times when you might have to remove objects from the inner basket. Clean the control panel and outer cabinet with a soft damp cloth. Do not use any abrasive powders or cleaning pads. Clean and inspect the interior underneath the washer. Read the use and care manuals for the proper maintenance of the brands of front load washers you service.

Cleaning the Door Seal Gasket (Boot)

Before cleaning the door seal gasket (Figure 19-2), remove all clothing from the washer. Now, inspect the door seal gasket for any rips or damage. If stains are found on the door seal gasket use the following procedure to clean the door seal gasket:

FIGURE 19-2 Front load washer door seal gasket (boot).

1. Take a gallon of warm tap water and mix it with ¾ of a cup of chlorine bleach; mix it well.

2. Use a cloth with the diluted solution and wipe the door seal gasket.

3. Let the diluted solution stand on the door seal gasket for 5 to 8 minutes.

4. After the time is up, wipe down the door seal gasket area thoroughly with a dry cloth, leave the door open, and let the interior of the washer air dry.

SAFETY NOTE Wear rubber gloves when using bleach for cleaning. Refer to the bleach manufacturer’s instructions for proper handling and use.

Cleaning the Dispenser Drawer

Fabric softener and detergent have a tendency to accumulate and build up in the dispenser drawer. To clean the dispenser drawer, you will have to remove it from the washer console. Open the dispenser drawer by first sliding the safety latch release lever to the left, and pull out the drawer until it stops. (On some models just pull out the drawer.) Next, press down on the locking tab located in the left rear of the dispenser drawer; now pull it out of the console (Figure 19-3). Take the dispenser drawer over to the sink and rinse it off using hot tap water. The fabric softener and detergent will dissolve away from the dispenser. Tell the customer that if the fabric softener and detergent continue to build up, a more frequent cleaning will be required. After you have cleaned the dispenser drawer, you will begin to clean the drawer opening (Figure 19-4). Use a toothbrush to clean the upper and lower recess in the drawer opening. Reinstall the dispenser drawer and test the dispenser drawer operation.

FIGURE 19-3 Press down on the locking tab and pull out the dispenser drawer.

FIGURE 19-4 Use a toothbrush to clean the excess fabric softener and detergent from the recess in the dispenser drawer.

Maintain Washer Freshness

To maintain the freshness of the washer always use HE detergent and at the end of the wash cycle, leave the washer door open slightly. On some models the washer manufacturer has added a special cycle in the washer’s programming to raise the water level, along with chlorine bleach added to begin the process of thoroughly cleaning the interior of the washer. To access this special cycle you must read the use and care manual before beginning the cleaning process.

On other models, you can add 1/3 of a cup of chlorine bleach to the dispenser drawer and run a short wash cycle. Do not add detergent during this process. At the end of the cycle always leave the door open slightly to have better ventilation and drying of the washer’s interior. Always read the use and care guide that comes with the washer for the proper maintenance procedures. If this cleaning procedure does not sufficiently improve the washer’s freshness, then you will have to evaluate the washer for other causes.

Winterize Washer

If the washer is going to be stored or moved in the winter months, you will have to prepare the washer in the following way:

1. Add about one quart to one gallon of nontoxic recreational vehicle (RV) antifreeze to the empty washer drum.

2. Select the drain/spin cycle and press the start button. Allow the washer to drain for about 1 minute. This procedure will allow the water to drain out of the washer. This process will not drain out all of the antifreeze.

3. Open the washer door and dry the interior of the drum.

4. Remove the dispenser drawer and pour out any water remaining in the dispenser compartments and dry thoroughly.

5. Unplug the washer.

6. Turn off the water inlet and remove the hoses and drain them.

7. Store or move the washer in an upright position. Remember the transport bolts have been removed when the washer was originally installed. If you kept them, reinstall the bolts to protect the washer from damage.

8. To reinstall the washer always follow the installation and the use and care instructions provided by the manufacturer. Don’t forget to remove the transport bolts.

9. To remove the antifreeze from the washer after storage, run an empty washer through a complete cycle, add HE detergent, and do not add clothing to the wash cycle.

By winterizing the washer with antifreeze, any liquid remaining in the drain pump and hoses will not freeze up, causing damage to the washer.

Repair Procedures

Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single washer component, containing the information you need to test a component that might be faulty and to replace it, if necessary.

Any person who cannot use basic tools should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any front load washer. Any improper installation, preventative maintenance, or repairs will create a risk of personal injury, as well as property damage. Call the service manager if installation, preventative maintenance, or the repair procedure is not fully understood.

Washer Timer

The washer timer is an electromechanical component controlled by a synchronous motor in incremental advances. It controls and sequences the numerous steps and functions involved in each cycle.

The typical complaints associated with washing machine timer failure are:

• The cycle will not advance.

• The washer won’t run at all.

• The washer will not fill.

• The washer will not pump the water out.

• The washer will not shut off.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer through its cycles. Before you change the timer, check the other components controlled by the timer. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel for the diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer.

3. Disconnect the electricity. Before working on the washer, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug out from the electrical outlet. Be sure that you only remove the washer plug. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

WARNING Some diagnostic tests will require you to test the components with the power turned on. When you disassemble the control panel, you can position it in such a way that the wiring will not make contact with metal. This act will allow you to test the components without electrical mishaps.

4. Remove the top panel to gain access. Begin by removing the screws from the top panel to gain access to the timer (Figure 19-5). Roll the console toward you. On some models, the front console can be removed.

FIGURE 19-5 Remove the screws that hold the top panel. Remove the top cover to gain access.

5. Test the timer. Remove the timer motor leads from the timer assembly. Test the timer motor by connecting the ohmmeter probes to the timer motor leads (Figure 19-6). Set the range on the ohmmeter to R x 100. The meter should indicate between 2000 and 3000 ohms. Next, test the timer switch contacts using the wiring diagram configuration for the affected cycle. Place the meter probe on each terminal being tested, and turn the timer knob. If the switch contact is good, your meter will read continuity. If the timer motor measures suitably, then connect a 120-volt, fused service cord (Figure 18-4) to the timer motor leads.

FIGURE 19-6 Checking the washer timer motor.

NOTE Connect the ground (common) wire test lead to the console ground wire. Be cautious whenever you are working with “live” wires. Avoid any shock hazards.

If the motor does not operate, replace the timer. If the timer motor runs but does not advance the cams, then the timer has internal defects and should be replaced.

6. Remove the timer. To remove the timer, remove the timer mounting screws. On some front load models, you might have to remove the control panel to gain access to the timer. Remove the wire lead terminals from the timer. Mark the wires as to their location on the timer. Some timers have a disconnect block instead of individual wires, which makes it easier to remove the timer wires.

Turn the timer knob counterclockwise or pull the knob toward you to remove it from the timer shaft, and slide the indicator dial off the shaft.

7. Install a new timer. To install a new timer, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Replace the wires on the timer. Reinstall the console panel, and restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washing machine cycles. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Electronic Control Board and User Interface Controls

On some models the electronic control board and user interface controls replace the electromechanical timer and rotary selection switches.

The typical complaints associated with the electronic control board or the user interface controls are:

• The washer won’t run or power up.

• Unable to program the washer.

• The display board will not display anything.

• One or more keypads will not accept commands.

• Unusual display readouts and/or error codes.

To prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) from damaging expensive electronic components, follow the steps in Chapters 6 and 11.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer. Turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

2. Check for external factors. You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is there electricity to the washer? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

3. Disconnect the electricity. Before working on the washer, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug out of the wall receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

4. Remove the console panel to gain access. Begin by removing the screws from the washer top to gain access to the electronic control board. Next remove the top (Figure 19-7). Now remove the console panel screws to gain access to the user interface controls (Figure 19-8).

FIGURE 19-7 Removing the top from the front load washer.

FIGURE 19-8 An exploded view of the control panel parts for a front load automatic washer.

5. Test the electronic control board and user interface controls. If you are able to run the washer diagnostic test mode, check the different functions of the washer. Use the technical data sheet for the model you are servicing to locate the test points from the wiring schematic. Check all wiring connections and wiring. Using the technical data sheet, you can test the electronic control board or user interface controls and input and output voltages. On some models, fuses are soldered to the printed circuit board (PCB). These fuses must be tested first before condemning the component.

6. Remove the electronic control board and user interface controls. To remove the defective component, remove the screws that secure the board to the control panel or washer frame. On some models you may have to lift a tab and turn the control to remove it. Disconnect the connectors from the electronic control board or user interface control (Figure 19-9).

FIGURE 19-9 When removing the wire connectors from the board, label them so you will remember where to plug them in. In today’s age, you could use your smartphone to take a picture before you start removing wires.

7. Install the new component. To install a new electronic control board or user interface control, read the parts data sheet that comes with the part for the proper installation process and just reverse the disassembly procedure and reassemble. Reinstall the console panel, and restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washer operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Door Lock

The door lock is mounted behind the front panel of the washer. It contains the door switch and the solenoid operating mechanism that opens and closes the washer door. A release ring located at the bottom of the lock mechanism can be pulled down to release the door lock in case of failure. The door lock on some models will not open until the cycle is completed and during a high suds condition. Also, the door lock will not open when the basket is rotating or heating the water.

The typical complaints associated with the door lock are:

• The door will not lock.

• The door will not unlock.

• The door lock can initiate error codes.

To prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) from damaging expensive electronic components, follow the steps in Chapters 6 and 11.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer. On electronic models, turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

4. Test the door lock switches. Disconnect the wire connectors from the door lock assembly. Set your multimeter on the ohms scale to R x 1. Next touch the meter test leads to the two terminals for each switch. You will need the wiring diagram for this test. The wiring diagram will identify the switch number contacts and the electronic control board connector contacts. The switch contacts will read 0Ω when closed. When the switch is open you will read infinite (open circuit). Next, test the door lock and unlock solenoids. Touch the meter test leads to the indicated connector terminals. Each solenoid should read about 60Ω.

5. Remove the door lock to gain access. First, remove the bottom panel and reach in and locate the ring at the bottom of the lock mechanism and pull it down to release the door lock. This will open the washer door. The door lock assembly is attached to the front panel by three Phillips-head screws (Figure 19-10). Next, peel back the door seal gasket and locate the wire loop and spring. Using long-nose pliers, remove the wire loop and spring from around the gasket (Figure 19-11a). Now, pull the door seal gasket away from the front panel (Figure 19-11b). Remove the three Phillips-head screws that secure the door lock assembly to the front panel. Reach in behind the front panel and pull out the door lock assembly and remove the three wire harnesses (Figures 19-12 and 19-13). Once this lock assembly has failed it should be replaced with a duplicate of the original.

FIGURE 19-10 The door lock is held in place with three Phillips-head screws.

FIGURE 19-11a Using a long-nose pliers to remove the wire loop and spring from the door seal gasket.

FIGURE 19-11b Peel back the gasket to gain access to the door lock located on the right side of the front panel.

FIGURE 19-12 A view from the inside of the washer looking out toward the front panel. The door lock assembly is attached to the front panel.

FIGURE 19-13 Top view of the door lock assembly.

6. Install a new door lock. To install a new door lock, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Replace the wires on the door lock assembly. Reinstall the door seal gasket, and restore the electricity to the washer. Inspect and test the washing machine for water leaks and proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Line Filter

The line filter is located on the interior of the rear panel next to the water valve. The purpose of a line filter in a front load washer is to smooth out any electrical fluctuations in the electrical supply voltage to the washer. The line filter also protects the electronic components and provides for a more reliable operation of the washer cycles.

To prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) from damaging expensive electronic components, follow the steps in Chapters 6 and 11.

The typical complaints associated with the line filter are:

• The washer has error codes.

• Electronic control board malfunctions.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

4. Remove the top panel to gain access to the line filter. Begin by removing the screws from the top panel to gain access to the line filter (Figure 19-7). Locate the line filter in the rear next to the water valve (Figure 19-14).

FIGURE 19-14 The line filter is located in the rear, near the top of the washer. If you hold an AM radio next to the filter and hear static when the washer is running, the line filter is defective.

5. Test the line filter. Inspect the line filter body for burn marks caused by heat or a power surge. Next, set your multimeter on the ohms scale, remove the wires from the terminals on the line filter, and check the resistance between the black wire terminals and the white wire terminals. The resistance should read 0Ω between the terminals.

6. Remove the line filter. Remove the wires from the terminals on the line filter. Then remove the screws that secure the line filter to the back panel. Slide the line filter to the right to remove it from the back panel.

7. Install a new line filter. To install a new line filter, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Replace the wires on the line filter. Restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Next reinstall the top panel and trim (Figure 19-7). Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Dispenser Assembly

Front load washers have an automatic dispenser distribution system that allows for the automatic dispensing of detergent, bleach, and fabric softener. The dispenser assembly is located in the upper left side of the washer (Figure 19-3). A water diverter sprays the correct amount of water into the proper compartment at the correct time, which will dilute the chemicals before they are dispensed into the wash.

The typical complaints associated with the dispenser assembly are:

• The washer has error codes.

• Detergent will not dispense into wash.

• Bleach will not dispense into wash.

• Fabric softener will not dispense into wash.

To prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) from damaging expensive electronic components, follow the steps in Chapters 6 and 11.

4. Gain access to the dispenser assembly. Begin by removing the screws from the top panel to gain access to the dispenser assembly (Figures 19-3 and 19-7).

5. Test the dispenser assembly. On the dispenser tank (Figure 19-16), the water diverter movement is controlled by a motor-driven cam. By placing the washer into the service test mode, you can observe the water diverter movement. The dispenser motor operates on 120 VAC, 60 Hz. The dispenser motor receives its commands from the electronic control board. You can plug in the washer and check for 120 VAC at the dispenser motor terminals when the washer is placed in the service test mode. Use the wiring diagram to find the correct wire connections to place your multimeter test leads on. Set your meter on AC voltage. If you read 120 volts on your meter and the dispenser motor does not advance the water diverter, replace the dispenser motor and/or dispenser assembly. When the washer is unplugged, the dispenser motor should read approximately 1500Ω resistance.

FIGURE 19-16 To test the operation of the dispenser, set the washer in the service test mode.

6. Remove the dispenser assembly. Remove the top and the control panel (Figures 19-4 and 19-15). Lay the control panel forward (Figure 19-9). Be careful not to damage the wiring harness. Next remove the gasket from the front panel (Figures 19-10 and 19-11a, b). Now remove all hoses from the dispenser (Figure 19-17). Disconnect the wiring harness and remove any screws holding the dispenser in place along with removing the dispenser motor from the tank.

FIGURE 19-15 Remove the eight Phillips-head screws that hold the front bracket and the control panel rear cover.

FIGURE 19-17 When testing the dispenser assembly, do not remove the wire harnesses.

7. Install the new dispenser assembly. To install a new dispenser assembly, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Replace the wires on the dispenser motor. Restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Next reinstall the top panel and trim (Figure 19-7). Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Water Level Control

The water level control (Figure 19-18) is located on the upper-right brace and it starts in the empty position. As the washer fills with water and the water level rises in the tub, it causes the air in the tube to increase the air pressure in the air dome. The air pressure is transferred from the air hose to the water level control and against the diaphragm, which actuates three switches: foam (suds), main, and overflow (Figure 19-19). The electronic control board monitors four water level conditions: empty, main, foam (suds), and overflow. Most front load washer models have overflow protection, which will turn on the drain pump motor and drain the water from the washer if an overfill condition exists, whether the washer is running or not. On other washer models, the water level control is electronic (Figure 19-20). Both controls operate similarly. The electronic board is mounted inside the water level control unit. The electronic board reads the pressure in the diaphragm bellows and converts it into an electronic signal. This signal is monitored by the electronic control board, which turns on or off the water valve solenoids.

FIGURE 19-18 Water level control (pressure switch) located under the top cover.

FIGURE 19-19 The air pressure in the air hose operates three internal switches, which monitor the four water level conditions listed.

FIGURE 19-20 Electronic water level control (sensor). The air hose is attached to the sensor and to the drain boot in the washer.

The typical complaints associated with the water level control (pressure switch) are:

• Tub does not fill to the proper level selected.

• Washer basket will not rotate.

• Washer will not spin.

• Control panel indicates an error/fault code.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by trying to select different water levels when operating the washer through its cycles. On electronic models, turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

2. Check for external factors. You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.) Is there any physical damage to the component? Is the plastic hose connected to the water level control and air dome? Check to be sure that the water is turned on all the way.

3. Disconnect the electricity. Before working on the washer, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the electrical outlet. Be sure that you only remove the washer plug. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

4. Remove the top panel to gain access. Begin by removing the top panel to gain access to the water level control (see Figure 19-7).

5. Test the water level control. Disconnect the air hose from the air dome and the wire terminal connectors from the water level control (pressure switch). Set the multimeter to the ohms scale R x 1. Locate on the wiring diagram the correct switch terminals to test. Touch the test leads to the correct switch terminals. Gently blow in the air hose until you hear the diaphragm activate. The switches will activate also. The meter should indicate 0Ω for each measurement while the diaphragm is activated.

WARNING Do not blow too hard into the air hose; you might damage the diaphragm in the water level control.

6. Remove the water level control. To remove the water level control (Figures 19-18 and 19-19), remove the wires and then remove the screws that hold the component to the washer frame. On some models you may have to twist the component and remove it. Next, remove the plastic hose.

7. Reinstall the water level control. To install a water level control (pressure switch), just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Replace the wires on the water level control. Restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Next reinstall the top panel and trim (Figure 19-7). Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Water Valve

The water inlet valve controls the flow of water into the washer, and is solenoid-operated (Figure 19-21). When it is energized, water in the supply line will pass through the valve body and into the washer.

FIGURE 19-21 Front load washer water valve located on the rear cabinet.

The typical complaints associated with water valve failure are:

• The washer will not fill with water.

• The washer overfills and leaks onto the floor.

• When the washer is off, water still enters the tub.

• The washer has error codes.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer through its cycles. Listen carefully, and you will hear whether the water is entering the washer. On electronic models, turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel for the diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

2. Check for external factors. You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.) Is the water turned on? Both water faucets must be turned all the way counterclockwise.

4. Gain access to the water valve. Turn off the water supply to the washer water valve. To access the water valve, the top panel must be removed (Figure 19-7).

5. Test the water valve. In order to check the solenoid coils on the water valve, remove the wire leads (label them) that connect to the coils from the wire harness (see Figure 19-21). These are slide-on terminal connectors attached to the ends of the wire. Just pull them off. Set the ohmmeter on R x 1000, and attach the probes to the terminals of one of the solenoid coils. The meter should read between 750 and 1100 ohms. Repeat this test for the second solenoid coil.

To test the fill rate of the water valve, the top panel does not have to be reinstalled. The washer can be placed into the service mode and the water valve activated. Another way to test the water valve is to attach the 120-volt fused service cord (Figure 18-4)—including the ground wire test lead to the cabinet ground—to the water valve solenoid coil. Then energize the solenoid coil to allow water to enter the tub and to check the flow rate of the water valve. The water valve flow rate is 2.1 gallons per minute. This step is repeated for each solenoid coil. If, when you energize the water valve, no water enters the washer tub, replace the water valve. If the water valve checks correctly, check the timer or the electronic control board and the wiring harness.

6. Remove the water valve. Remove the wires from both solenoid coils, and disconnect the outlet hose. Next, remove the water inlet hoses from the water valve. Remove the screws that secure the water valve to the washer. On some models there is only one screw that holds the water valve in place, and then you must slide the water valve horizontally to the right to remove it.

7. Install a new water valve. To install the new water valve, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Reconnect the wire leads to the solenoid coils. After the installation of the new valve, turn on the water supply and check for water leaks. If none are found, reinstall the top panel and trim (Figure 19-7) and restore the electricity to the washer. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Drive Belt

The drive belt is a six- or seven-rib flat Poly-V design belt. It is used to transmit power from the motor pulley to the tub. The belt is constructed of a material that stretches, which makes belt tension adjustments unnecessary. It also makes it easier to remove and reinstall a belt.

The typical complaints associated with belt failure are:

• Washer basket will not rotate.

• Washer basket will not spin.

• Washer motor spins freely.

• There is a smell of something burning.

• The washer has error codes.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer in the spin cycle. Listen carefully, and you will hear and see if the inner basket is turning or if the circuit breaker trips. On electronic models, turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

3. Disconnect the electricity. Before working on the washer, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug out from the electrical outlet. Be sure that you only remove the washer plug. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

4. Gain access to the belt. Pull the washer away from the wall. You must gain access to the belt by removing the back panel. The back panel is usually held on with two to four screws. Remove the screws, and remove the panel (Figure 19-22).

FIGURE 19-22 Remove the screws that secure the back panel to the rear of the washer.

5. Replace the drive belt. To replace the drive belt on this type of washer, you must remove the belt. Pull out on the belt and turn the basket drive pulley until the belt comes off the pulley. To reinstall the belt, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble (Figure 19-23). The drive belt tension on this type of washer does not need adjusting. Also, remember to place the rib side of the belt facing into the pulleys.

FIGURE 19-23 A properly installed drive belt.

6. Test the washer. You are now ready to test the washer. Begin the wash cycle with a full load of laundry in the basket. Check the wash and the spin cycles. If these check out okay, reinstall the outer panel. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Drain Pump Motor

The drain pump motor consists of a 120 volt 60 Hz motor, impeller, and impeller housing. It also contains a filter strainer that prevents objects from entering the impeller and the drain outlet hose (Figure 19-24 and Figure 19-25). The drain pump motor can drain between 8 and 17 gallons per minute with a standpipe height between 2 and 8 feet. The drain pump motor will operate in the spin cycle and provides overflow protection when signaled from the water level control (pressure switch) and the electronic control board. The washer has to be plugged in for the overflow protection to work.

FIGURE 19-24 The filter strainer is located in the front of the washer at the bottom behind the lower panel.

FIGURE 19-25 A top view of the drain pump motor and filter strainer. The drain pump motor is accessible through the lower panel in the front of the washer.

The typical complaints associated with the water pump are:

• Washer will not drain the water out.

• It smells like something is burning.

• The water in the washer will not recirculate.

• The washer has an error code.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

3. Disconnect the electricity. Before working on the washer, disconnect the electricity to the washer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the electrical outlet. Be sure that you only remove the washer plug. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

4. Access and remove the drain pump motor. In order to gain access to the drain pump motor assembly in this type of washer, remove the lower panel (Figure 19-26). Place a flat pan under the drain cleanout cap (Figure 19-24). About one quart of water will drain out when you remove the drain cleanout cap. Next, turn the drain cleanout cap counterclockwise about two to three turns and pull toward you. The water will drain in the flat pan. Check for debris or foreign objects in the filter strainer. If you found debris in the filter strainer, clean it out and retest the drain pump motor. It could have been blocked only.

FIGURE 19-26 This illustration shows the bottom access panel has already been removed.

5. Test the drain pump motor. To test the drain pump motor, remove the wire connector to the pump motor. Next, set your multimeter on the ohms scale R x 1. Place the meter test leads on the motor terminals. You should read between 10 and 13Ω on the meter. Now inspect the impeller inside the pump. If there is any debris, remove it. Make sure that the impeller is not damaged.

6. Remove the drain pump motor. With the pump wires disconnected and the water drained from the pump, remove the tub outlet hose and drain hose from the pump (Figure 19-25). Next, remove the screws that secure the drain pump motor to the washer. You may have to move the drain pump motor rearward to clear the pins and grommets in the front frame. Remove the drain pump motor from the washer in the opening in the front frame.

7. Install the drain pump motor. To install the drain pump motor, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Reconnect the wire leads to the motor. Reconnect the hoses to the pump. Restore the electricity to the washer. Check for water leaks. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Heater Assembly

The heater assembly is located above the drain pump motor attached to the bottom of the outer tub (Figure 19-27). The heater assembly consists of a 900 to 1100 watt, 120 VAC heater and water temperature thermistor. The heater will operate on certain cycles, including the sanitize cycle, when selected by the customer.

FIGURE 19-27 The heater is held in place and sealed to the tub by compressing a gasket between two metal brackets to the outer tub with a 10 mm nut.

The typical complaints associated with the heater assembly are:

• The washer has error codes.

• The laundry at the end of the cycle did not meet the customer’s expectations.

• Water temperature is not correct.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer through its cycles. On electronic models, turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

2. Check for external factors. You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.) Is the water turned on? Both water faucets must be turned all the way counterclockwise. Check the hot and cold water temperature at the nearest water faucet.

4. Gain access to the heater assembly. In order to gain access to the heater assembly in this type of washer, remove the lower panel (Figure 19-26). Look underneath at the bottom of the tub to the right; you will see the heater assembly (Figure 19-27).

5. Test the heater assembly. To test the heater, remove the wires from the heating element. Set your multimeter on ohms R x 1 and place the test leads on the heater terminals. The meter should read between 13 and 16Ω resistance. To test the heater element with the washer running, turn on the washer in the sanitize cycle with no load in the drum. Let the washer fill and run for about 5 minutes; then take a wattage measurement or amperage measurement. The wattage reading should be between 900 and 1100 watts. The amperage reading should be between 7 and 9 amps. If there is less than 1½ inches of water in the basket or if the water level is below the vanes, the heater will not come on. To measure the height of the water in the basket when the heater turns on, connect an ammeter or wattmeter to the heater element wire. Next, place the washer into the service test mode and allow the water to enter the tub. Once the ammeter or wattmeter indicates a reading (900 to 1100 watts or 7 to 9 amps), stop the washer from filling. Now open the door and measure the water level. To test the thermistor on the heater assembly, just remove the wires from the terminals and take a resistance reading. For the correct reading, see the technical data sheet. See sample charts in Figure 19-28 and Figure 19-29. Remember that resistance goes down when the temperature increases.

FIGURE 19-28 A component resistance chart found on a wiring diagram. Locate the correct resistance chart for the model you are servicing.

FIGURE 19-29 A temperature/ resistance chart found on a technical data sheet. Locate the correct chart for the model you are servicing.

6. Remove the heater assembly. First, place the washer in the drain mode to drain out the water. Remove all the wires from the heater assembly. Take a 10-mm socket and loosen the nut on the heater assembly until it is flush with the end of the stud. To relax the gasket, push in on the nut. Now, grab hold of the heater assembly and pull toward you to remove it from the tub.

7. Install a heater assembly. To install the heater assembly, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Reconnect the wire leads to the heater and the thermistor. When tightening the 10-mm nut, use a torque wrench to secure the nut to 31-in. lbs. of torque. Undertorquing the nut will cause the tub to leak water, and if it is overtorqued, the tub will crack and leak water. Restore the electricity to the washer. Check for water leaks. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Inverter (Motor Speed Control Board)

The inverter board, also known as the motor speed control unit, is located in the base of the washer in the rear (Figure 19-30). It receives its commands from the electronic control board (Figure 19-9) and controls the speed and direction of the drive motor. For the inverter to operate the motor correctly, it needs 120 VAC supply voltage, a DC input signal from the electronic control board, and a good working three-phase motor. To operate a preprogrammed speed and direction of a motor, you will need to vary the amount, frequency, and polarity of the voltage and compare the input from the tachometer (sensor) on the drive motor.

FIGURE 19-30 A front view of the inverter board located in the base of the washer.

The typical complaints associated with the inverter (motor speed control board) are:

• The motor will not run.

• The washer has an error code.

• Fuse is blown or circuit breaker trips.

• The motor runs at the wrong speed.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

1. Verify the complaint. Verify the complaint by operating the washer through its cycles. Turn off the electricity to the appliance and wait for two minutes before turning it back on. If a fault code appears, look up the code. If the washer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or in the rear of the washer for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the washer. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing the washer functions.

4. Gain access to the inverter. In order to gain access to the inverter in this type of washer, remove the lower panel (Figure 19-26). Locate the inverter on the left or right side.

5. Test the inverter board. Locate the junction box near the inverter board (Figure 19-31). Remove the junction box cover by pressing in on the tabs. At this point you will need to enter into the service test mode to check for 120 VAC at the AC input wires. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing this function. With the motor running in the test mode, test for 120 VAC at the AC input wires. Next, unplug the washer and test the motor resistance. The resistance value should be between 3 and 8Ω between any two of the three windings. If it is correct, replace the inverter.

FIGURE 19-31 A top view showing the inverter board and junction box.

6. Remove the inverter board. With the junction box cover off, disconnect the wire connections (Figure 19-31) in the junction box. Next, remove the wire connector from the inverter to the motor and remove the ground wire. Remove the screws that secure the inverter to the base and slide the inverter toward you.

7. Install an inverter board. To install the inverter board, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Reconnect the wire connectors to the inverter board assembly. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Drive Motor

The drive motor (Figure 19-32) is a three-phase induction type motor operating at variable speeds and direction, depending on the input voltages and frequencies from the inverter board. The tachometer (sensor) attached to the motor monitors the motor speed and direction and sends that information back to the inverter board. The drive motor drives the tub pulley with a belt.

FIGURE 19-32 Typical drive motor used in a front load washer.

The typical complaints associated with the drive motor are:

• The motor will not run.

• The washer has an error code.

• Fuse is blown or circuit breaker trips.

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

4. Gain access to the drive motor. In order to gain access to the drive motor, you must gain access to the front lower panel and pull out the washer to gain access to the rear panel (Figures 19-22 and 19-26).

5. Test the drive motor. There are two methods for testing the drive motor: at the motor harness connector or at the inverter board. The operation of the drive motor can also be checked by placing the washer in the service test mode. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the washer in the service test mode for testing this function. To test at the drive motor, separate the motor harness connector and place your multimeter on the ohms scale R x 1. Using the wiring diagram, locate the three windings of the drive motor and the tachometer (sensor) as it relates to the wiring connector. The resistance value should be between 3 and 8Ω between any two of the three windings. Next, test the tachometer (sensor); the meter should read approximately between 115 and 120Ω. If any of the motor windings vary in resistance from ½ to 1Ω the motor might be bad, depending on the model of washer serviced. Check the technical data sheet for the exact readings.

6. Remove the drive motor. Remove the rear access panel to gain access to the drive motor. Remove the drive belt by turning it off the drive pulley (Figure 19-33). The belt will stretch; this is normal. Next, disconnect the ground wire and the motor electrical connector (Figure 19-34). Now, remove the four bolts that secure the drive motor to the outer tub (Figure 19-35). Support the motor when you pull the drive motor forward to remove it from the washer. On other models, you may have to remove only one bolt and slide the drive motor rearward to remove it from its motor mounts.

FIGURE 19-33 Removing the drive belt from the tub drive pulley.

FIGURE 19-34 Before removing the drive motor, remove the ground wire and the electrical connector from the drive motor.

FIGURE 19-35 Remove the bolts that secure the motor to the frame and slide the motor out of the washer.

7. Install the drive motor. To install the drive motor, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Reconnect the wire connector to the drive motor and reinstall the ground wire. Test the washing machine for proper operation. Make sure to take the washer out of the service test mode when the repair is completed.

Wiring Schematic Diagrams

The following wiring diagrams (Figures 19-36 through 19-40) will be helpful in pinpointing the location of the components in relationship to the electronic control board.

FIGURE 19-36 Front load washer schematic diagram #1.

FIGURE 19-37 Front load washer schematic diagram #2.

FIGURE 19-38 Front load washer schematic diagram #3.

FIGURE 19-39 Front load washer schematic diagram #4.

FIGURE 19-40 Front load washer typical grounding schematic diagram #5.