Plant in full sun but provide light shade where daytime temperatures exceed 80°F/26.6°C.into a garden and keeping them all happy and growing vigorously is a challenge. When you consider the care that each crop requires to grow well — from raising delicate seedlings to helping transplants adjust to the outdoors to preventing water stress and pest problems — it’s very easy to get caught up in, and overwhelmed by, the details. When is it time to start the lettuce or broccoli seed? Is it too late to plant tomatoes? Will the peppers survive if they’re moved outdoors now, or should I wait a week? What does a ripe eggplant look like? How do I grow a fall crop of kale or cabbage?
While experienced gardeners do keep track of many of the details for each crop, they’re also aware of the similarities these crops share. For one, nearly all of them will grow in well-prepared garden soil that is rich in organic matter. So prepare the soil once for everybody, then plant.
In the pages that follow, you’ll find information that will help you produce a topnotch harvest of the most popular vegetable crops. Each crop entry begins with tricks and tips for starting seedlings and moving transplants to the garden and then goes on to cover essential care during the growing season and how to harvest produce at its prime. You’ll also find a list of essential Tips for Success that summarize the most important techniques for growing each crop like an expert. Problem Patrol guides you through the challenge of averting common pest, disease, and other problems you may encounter with each crop. To make information easy to find, crops that have the same growing requirements and that are grown on similar schedules are grouped together. For example, if you turn to page 210, you’ll find the entry that covers broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and their relatives. For more information about USDA hardiness zones and to find out what zone you garden in, go to www.arborday.org/treeinfo/zonelookup.cfm or inquire at your Cooperative Extension Office.
As you gain experience with the crops featured here, you’ll identify tricks that work well in your garden, schedules that make sense for you, and favorite ways to handle chores from trellising to pest prevention. That’s one of the most enjoyable aspects of gardening: It’s personal. Your garden is different from that of every other gardener, as is the way you take care of it. Enjoy the process!
Plant in full sun but provide light shade where daytime temperatures exceed 80°F/26.6°C.
Provide a long growing season with warm days and cool nights.
Replace plants every 4 or 5 years; in cold climates, grow them as annuals.
Q Can I grow artichokes? Are they annuals or perennials? I live in southeastern Pennsylvania.
A Also called globe artichokes, these Mediterranean perennials can be grown as annuals in the Mid-Atlantic and some other parts of the country provided you select the right cultivars to grow, start them early, and protect them from cold spells. ‘Imperial Star’ is a good choice for annual cultivation. Start seeds indoors 8 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost, and grow them at temperatures between 60-70°F/15.5-21°C. The seedlings need to be exposed to cool temperatures — 50°F/10°C — for at least a week or 10 days in order to flower, so about 2 weeks before the last spring frost, move them to a cold frame or a spot where you can maintain cool temperatures. The plants won’t grow during this cold treatment, but it is essential if they are to produce chokes. Watch the weather carefully, and bring them indoors if colder weather threatens, since artichokes don’t tolerate cold snaps. Move them to the garden about 2 weeks after the last frost.
Although artichokes are hardy from Zone 8 south, they do not tolerate the heat and humidity of Southeast summers well. Outside Northern California they probably won’t produce well when grown as perennials. Try ‘Violetto’ or ‘Texas Hill’ for areas with hot summers and warm winters.
Q How do I grow artichokes as perennials in Northern California?
A From seed, artichoke plants take 110 to 150 days to produce flower buds, which are the edible portion of the plant. Start seeds indoors 8 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. For faster turnaround, start with divisions, which will begin producing buds about 100 days after planting. Plant seedlings or divisions with the crowns of the plant just above the soil surface; when growing them as annuals, plant them slightly deeper, and mulch with straw or floating row covers until the weather warms up. Space plants 3'/.9 m apart in rows 3'-4'/.9-1.2 m apart. For fat, fleshy flower buds, the soil should be evenly moist but not wet. In warm climates, add a 3"-4"/7.6-10.2 cm layer of compost or other mulch to keep the soil cool. Water monthly with fish emulsion in spring and summer. Plants tolerate drought but won’t flower well in dry soil.
Artichoke flower buds are ready for cutting when they are still green. The bracts (see Glossary) should be tight against the bud. To harvest, cut them with 2"-3"/5-7.6 cm of stem still attached. After harvesting the central stalk, which flowers first, cut it back to about 1'/.3 m to encourage side shoots and more flower buds to form.
Cutting an artichoke bud
Q What care do artichoke plants need at the end of the season?
A In late fall cut the plants to the ground and mulch them. Artichokes are seldom troubled by pests or diseases, but clumps do begin to lose vigor after 4 or 5 years. When that happens, dig the clumps and replace them in spring. In areas where artichokes are not hardy (Zone 7 north), try digging and potting up clumps 1 month before the last frost date. Overwinter them in a cool, frost-free place, and move them back to the garden after danger of frost has passed.
At planting time, pay special attention to soil preparation, along with annual soil improvement, since plants will produce for 15 years or more.
Choose all-male cultivars, which are two to three times more productive than conventional cultivars.
Harvest spears daily once plants are in full production, twice a day if temperatures are in the 80s/26.6-31.6°C.
Q I live in northern Mississippi. Is asparagus a crop I can grow?
A Yes, you can. Asparagus makes a great perennial crop for gardeners throughout much of the United States and southern Canada. The only areas where asparagus won’t thrive are along the hot and humid Gulf Coast and in Florida. The plants require a dormant period so the crowns can rest before producing new growth for the next season. In California’s Imperial Valley, where temperatures reach 115°F/46°C, heat and drought send plants into summer dormancy.
Q Where should I plant asparagus?
A Plant rows of asparagus alongside, but out of, the main vegetable garden. The perennial crowns and wide-spreading roots are easy to damage accidentally when tilling or replanting annual crops. Site plants along the west or north side of the garden so their ferny, 5"/1.5 m-tall foliage won’t shade other crops. Raised beds are a good choice for asparagus, because they supply well-drained conditions and can be filled with rich soil. For best results start with certified disease-free, 1-year-old crowns, not seeds. Two-year-old crowns are more expensive and suffer more from transplant shock than 1-year-old crowns, so avoid them.
Q Which cultivars are best?
A Asparagus produces both male and female plants (such plants are said to be dioecious). Female plants spend a lot of energy producing berries and seeds. Since all-male hybrids don’t produce seed, they bear more spears than old-fashioned dioecious cultivars. New hybrids also resist or tolerate rust and other common asparagus diseases. Planting them in well-drained soil eliminates most disease problems. Planting all-male plants also eliminates the need to weed out less-productive, self-sown seedlings.
Q What’s the best way to plant asparagus crowns?
A Well-cared-for asparagus can produce for 15 to 20 years, and good soil preparation pays off. Ideally, have your soil tested, and adjust the pH if necessary before you buy plants. Prepare the soil in fall for spring planting by working in a good dose of compost and well-rotted manure. It’s also important to plant crowns as soon after you purchase them as possible. (Store them in slightly moist sphagnum moss if you can’t plant immediately.) In spring dig a 6"-7"/15.2-17.8 cm-deep trench with a slight mound at the bottom that runs down the center. Spread a handful each of bonemeal and wood ashes where each crown will go, then top that with a 1"/2.5 cm layer of compost. Soak asparagus crowns in compost tea for about 15 minutes before planting. Space out the crowns — just lay them on their sides, without spreading out the roots — 1'/.45 m apart in rows 3'-4'/.9-1.2 m apart. At first, cover them with just 2"/5 cm of soil. Gradually cover them with more soil as the shoots emerge, until the trench is full. The bed should stay moist but not wet.
Q My asparagus crowns never came up. What happened?
A Be sure the soil has warmed to 50°F/10°C before planting, because crowns won’t grow in cold — or wet — soil, which also exposes the plants to diseases. Plant in raised beds if your soil tends to be damp.
Q What do asparagus plants need to stay healthy?
A Asparagus crowns grow up toward the soil surface each year, and this results in smaller, less-tender spears. Prevent this by mounding 1"-2"/2.5-5.0 cm of soil up over the rows each spring. Add a layer of compost at the same time to enrich the soil. Adjust soil pH if necessary. Keep the soil evenly moist during the harvesting season, and cover beds with several inches of weed-free straw, chopped leaves, or grass clippings once the harvest has finished.
SEE ALSO: For more about pH, page 413.
Q Do I need to be careful about weeding my asparagus patch?
A Weeds can easily overrun an asparagus bed and cut productivity, so it’s very important to stay ahead of them. Keep the rows mulched, and pull weeds as regularly as you can. Pull carefully, or just cut weeds off at the soil surface during the harvest season to avoid damaging
These blue-black, yellow-spotted, ¼"/.63 cm-long beetles feed on spears in spring and cause the spears to become misshapen. The beetles and their wormlike gray larvae also defoliate plants in summer, eating leaves and stems once the plants fern out. Fall cleanup — removing foliage and mulch where these beetles overwinter — is the first line of defense. Cover beds in spring with floating row covers; handpick pests. As a last resort, spray with pyrethrins.
Asparagus beetle
emerging spears. In fall, cut down the asparagus foliage after it has yellowed, then cultivate shallowly to eliminate annual weeds. Don’t dig deeper than 2"-3"/5-7.6 cm, since the crowns are at most 6"/15.2 cm down. One option for dealing with weedy, self-sown asparagus seedlings is to dig up female plants (the ones that produce berries) and replace them with male ones, which bear more and don’t self-sow.
Q The first spears have come up in my new asparagus beds! Can I cut them?
A Resist the temptation to harvest from newly planted asparagus. The first year, don’t pick at all: Let the spears “fern out” so they can produce energy to support root growth. The second year, pick no more than two or three of the thickest spears from each crown. Let the rest go. The third year, harvest all the spears for about 4 weeks. The fourth year, once plants are fully established, harvest for 8 to as much as 12 weeks. Stop harvesting when more than half of the spears are less than the thickness of a pencil.
Q What’s the best technique for picking the spears?
A Many gardeners snap spears off, but it’s best to cut them by holding the knife parallel to the ground and cutting just below the soil surface. Be careful not to cut into the crowns.
Q How do I tell when the spears are tender and ready to pick?
A Look at the tips of the spears. Tight tips will be tender; loose ones may have turned woody. Pick spears every 2 or 3 days — daily or even twice a day if temperatures are above about 85°F/29.4°C.
Plunge cut asparagus spears into ice water right away to cool them down, then store them upright in the refrigerator in jars with 1"-2"/2.5-5 cm of water in the bottom. Loosely cover the spears with a plastic bag. They will keep for a week or more at 35°F/1.7°C.
Q My family loves white asparagus. How do I grow that?
A It’s easy to produce this gourmet treat. Start with any green asparagus, and use a hoe to mound loose soil up over the rows. Mix the soil with compost if it seems heavy, since a light, loose covering is best. Pile the soil up over the emerging spears, and continue adding more until they’re ready for harvest, to keep them in the dark. Gently remove the soil to harvest.
Q We never have enough asparagus. Is there any way to spread out the harvest?
A If you have plenty of gardening space, plant twice as many asparagus crowns as you need for your household. You’re going to designate half the plants for spring harvest, and half for fall. In spring, harvest spears as you normally would from the spring half of the bed. Let plants in the other half of the bed “fern out”; then in late July cut down their foliage. Water the bed deeply if the weather has been dry. The plants will produce new spears that can be harvested into the fall. Mulch the soil with chopped leaves or another light mulch so a crust doesn’t form that would be too hard for the spears to break through.
To keep the plants vigorous if you use this method, be consistent and always harvest spears in the spring bed in spring and the fall bed in fall. A fall-harvest schedule is harder on plants than traditional spring harvest, because because fall harvest puts stress on the crowns just before winter arrives. For this reason, fall-harvested plants may need to be replaced before spring-harvested ones will.
Q Are there other perennial vegetables I can plant near asparagus?
A Although used more like a fruit than a vegetable, rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is another popular perennial crop. Plantings will last 20 years and, like asparagus, can be hard to fit into a bed with other vegetables. Instead, site rhubarb alongside your vegetable garden, where it won’t suffer root or crown damage when you till or dig your garden.
Q How do I grow rhubarb?
A Plants need full sun to light shade and deeply prepared soil that’s well drained and rich in organic matter. Rhubarb grows best in areas with cool summers — summer highs averaging 75°F/24°C are ideal — and winter temperatures that fall below 40°F/4.5°C (roughly USDA Zones 2 to 8). For quickest results, start with root divisions, also called sets (for a family of four you’ll need about five plants). For each set, dig a site that’s 1½'-2'/.45-.6 m square, and work in plenty of compost and well-rotted manure. Space sets 4'/1.2 m apart and plant them with the buds 1" - 2"/2.5-5 cm below crown the soil surface. Once they sprout, mulch heavily with grass clippings or chopped leaves and water regularly — they need 1"/2.5 cm of water per week. In fall cut back the tops. Top-dress rhubarb plantings annu- Soil enriched with ally in spring and fall with compost.
organic matter
Q How do I harvest rhubarb?
A Don’t harvest any stalks the first year, and harvest only a few stalks the second year. After that, harvest as many as you want for 2 months, beginning in spring when they are about as wide as a finger. To keep the plants producing new leaves, remove flower stalks as they appear. To harvest leaf stalks, either cut or twist and pull them off. Plunge stalks into ice water to cool them, then store in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Be sure to cut off the leaves and compost them. Only the stalks are edible; the leaves are poisonous.
Install a trellis, teepee, or other support for pole beans before sowing seeds.
Wait to sow until the soil has warmed to at least 55°F/12.7°C.
Cover seeded areas with floating row covers to protect seedlings from cold and insect pests.
Q Which kind of beans should I grow, pole beans or bush beans?
A Many gardeners grow some of each type. Bush beans are easy to grow and produce a crop quickly. They’re self-supporting plants that do not need trellising. Pole beans, which take longer to bear, are climbing, twining plants that must be staked or trellised. Over the long run, they produce heavier yields and bear over a longer season than bush beans. Pole beans also take up less space in the garden; another advantage is that you don’t need to stoop over to pick them.
Q Help! The bean descriptions on seed packets and in catalogs are confusing. What do I need to know?
A Beans are a confusing lot, because catalogs refer to the many different shapes and sizes, along with harvest times. If you experiment a bit, though, you’ll find an interesting array of crops. All require basically the same care in the garden, and unless otherwise noted, all are available as either bush or pole beans.
SNAP BEANS. Also called green or string beans, these are picked when the pods are still young and tender. Some cultivars have yellow pods (these are also called wax beans); others are purple podded.
FILET, OR FRENCH, BEANS. Also called haricots verts, these are snap beans bred to be picked while still very slender.
ROMANO BEANS. These are broad, flat snap beans that have a rich, beany flavor.
SHELL BEANS. Also called horticultural beans or flageolets, these are beans that are harvested when the seeds have swollen but are still fleshy and the pods are tough and fairly dry, much like lima beans. Shell beans also can be left in the garden and harvested as dry beans.
Snap bean
Filet bean
Shell bean
Romano bean
DRY BEANS. Also called field beans, these are bush-type beans that are left in the garden until the seeds are hard and the pods are dry. They come in different colors and forms, including black beans, pinto beans, and kidney beans.
Dry beans
Q What about lima beans? How do I grow them? I live near Peoria, Illinois.
A Lima beans (Phaseolus lunatus) are a heat-loving crop, and most experts recommend limas for gardens in Zone 5 and warmer. You’ll find both bush- and pole-type plants offered in catalogs. Bush-type plants begin bearing in 80 days, pole limas in 90. Since Peoria is in Zone 5, stick to growing bush limas; bush types are best in areas with less than 130 days of warm, summer weather. Planting short-season cultivars, warming the soil before planting, and protecting seedlings from cold in spring all help speed production. Both small- and large-seeded lima cultivars are available. Small-seeded limas are commonly called baby limas or butterbeans, while large-seeded ones are sometimes called potato limas.
Q I like to experiment a bit in my garden. Are there other kinds of beans I can try that are easy to grow?
A There’s a wealth of crops closely related to beans that are great choices for home gardens. Unless otherwise noted below, all are grown much like snap or pole beans. In addition to the ones listed here, consider trying adzuki beans (Vicia faba), lentils (Lens culinaris), mung beans (Vigna radiata), or winged beans (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus), also called asparagus peas.
ASPARAGUS BEANS (Vigna unguiculata var. sesquipedalis). Also called yard-long beans, these are heat-loving, subtropical pole-type beans with 1'-1½'/.3-.45 m-long pods with black seeds. Harvest when pods are young and tender, like a snap bean. Look for day-neutral cultivars, like ‘Liana’, which bear best in areas with long summers.
CHICKPEAS (Cicer arietinum). These are also called garbanzo beans and Egyptian peas. They can be harvested when tender and used like a snap bean. To harvest dry garbanzos, pull the entire plant and lay them on a sheet or tarp in a dry, sunny spot until the pods have split to release their seeds.
COWPEAS (Vigna unguiculata ssp. unguiculata). Also called Southern peas and field peas, these plants thrive in hot weather. They’re also more drought tolerant than other beans and bean relatives: Don’t water them after the plants flower and pods have begun to form. Harvest when young and tender as snap beans, before the pods turn yellow as shell beans, or as dry beans. Blackeyed peas are one type of cowpea, but there are many other colors available. Most are bush-type plants, but pole cowpeas also are available.
FAVA BEANS (Vicia faba). Also called broad or horse beans, these need cool, moist conditions and are grown like peas. Harvest them young, like a snap bean, or at the shell- or dry-bean stage. In hot-summer areas, try sowing in fall for overwintering or harvest in spring or fall.
SOYBEANS (Glycine max). Also called edamame beans, soybeans are easy to grow. Treat them as you would any bush beans, harvesting when the seeds are plump and nearly touching in the pods but before the pods begin to turn yellow.
Q How early can I plant beans?
A Beans are a warm-weather crop, and the seeds simply sit and rot if they’re planted in cold, wet soil in spring. Wait to plant until a week or two after the last frost date for your area. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F/12.7°C, but 60°F/15.5°C is better, and seeds germinate even faster in soil that has warmed to 75-80°F/24-26.7°C. (Fava beans are an exception to this rule: They prefer cool weather and are grown like peas.)
Q What’s the best spacing for beans? Are bush and pole beans grown the same distance apart?
A Bush and pole beans are grown at slightly different spacings. Bush beans are normally grown in rows, with seeds spaced 2"-4"/5-10 cm apart. Thin seedlings to 4"-6"/10-15.2 cm apart. Space individual rows 1½'-3'/.45-.9 m apart or, for a higher-density planting, arrange bush beans in wide rows with several plants abreast so each row is about 2'-2½'/.6-.75 m wide (set individual plants at the regular spacing within the row). Leave 2'-3'/.75-.9 m between the wide rows, so you’ll have room for tending the plants. Plant pole bean seeds 4"-6" apart and thin seedlings to 6"-9"/15.2-22.9 cm. Leave 3'-4'/.9-1.2 m between rows. Be sure to install poles or erect trellises before sowing to avoid trampling the soil to do it later.
Q I want to grow my pole beans on trellises scattered around the garden. What’s the easiest way to do that?
A Plant your pole beans on hills with teepee-type supports. In this case, the number of plants will depend on how many supports are used to build the teepees. Build a hill large enough to accommodate the entire teepee, and use five to ten supports to build it. Plant two seeds per teepee support, and thin to one plant per support once the seedlings are up and growing. Leave 3'-5'/.9-1.5 m between hills.
SEE ALSO: For details on how to set up teepees and trellises, pages 46-47.
Q How do I sow the seeds?
A Plant beans 1"/2.5 cm deep to 1½"/3.75 cm deep in light-textured soil that’s rich in organic matter, since it is generally warmer than heavier soil. For a late-summer crop of beans, sow seed slightly deeper than usual, about 2"/5 cm, to ensure they receive adequate moisture for germination. Since beans can take nitrogen from the air and use it to fuel their growth, there’s one other sowing step that you may want to take. If you haven’t grown beans before, purchase bacterial inoculant with your seeds. Beans need certain soil-dwelling bacteria in order for their roots to fix nitrogen, and applying bacterial inoculant ensures that the plants have plenty of bacteria available to form this mutually beneficial partnership. To apply it, moisten the seeds before planting and dust them with inoculant. After the first year, you’ll probably have enough bacteria in your soil to inoculate future crops without dusting the seeds.
SEE ALSO: For more information on inoculants, page 410.
Q How can I keep my garden from producing bushels of beans one week and none the next?
A Anyone who has grown beans before knows that they produce a bumper crop all at once. To spread out the bean harvest — and your picking time — one option is to plant small crops of bush beans every 10 or 12 days. Continue planting up to 8 or 12 weeks before the first fall frost date for your area. As one batch of plants stops producing, begin picking from the next. Or grow both bush and pole types. Bush beans produce a week or two before pole types start bearing, and pole beans continue producing long after the bush-type plants are finished.
Q What care do beans need to stay healthy?
A Beans don’t tolerate drought very well, so keep the soil evenly moist, especially while they’re germinating, flowering, and growing pods. Don’t overwater, though, because wet soil causes root rot and can cause flowers to drop off without producing pods. Once the plants are about to bloom, mulch them with 4"-6"/10.2-15.2 cm of light mulch. Plants don’t need extra fertilizer during the season.
Q How can I encourage my pole beans to climb their trellis?
A Bean seedlings sometimes need a little help to begin climbing a trellis; otherwise they’ll twine around each other or flop on the ground. When plants are still quite small, gently guide the vines around the trellis. Once they’re in contact, they’ll climb on their own. If your trellis starts several inches above the plants, try placing a thin garden stake next to each seedling that bridges the gap from ground to trellis. Then train the seedlings onto the stake to give them a leg up.
pole bean seedling
For the biggest overall harvest, pick beans daily or every few days. If you wait longer between harvests, some pods will mature, which causes the plants to stop producing new ones. Pinch or cut off the pods — pulling at them can uproot the plants.
Q When are beans ready to pick?
A For tender green beans, pick them when they are about as thick as a pencil and the seeds inside the pods are just visible as small bumps. Pick shell beans once the seeds are full size but still tender. With both green and shell beans, the more you pick, the more the plants produce. Leave dry beans on the plants until the seeds are hard and rattle in the pods, or cut the plants once the pods are yellow and hang them in a warm, dry place. Store dry beans in jars with a tablespoon of powdered milk folded in a paper towel to absorb moisture.
Q What do I do once my bush beans stop producing?
A As the plants stop producing new pods, either pull them up and add them to the compost pile or dig them under to enrich the soil where they’ve grown. If you’re digging the plants under, be sure to shred or chop up the foliage and stems first. Otherwise, they’ll take quite a while to break down. Replant the bed with another crop or mulch heavily for planting later in the season.
Q I’ve heard that beans are susceptible to many diseases. What can I do about them?
A The best line of defense is to plant resistant cultivars. Other steps that will reduce problems include:
If possible, don’t plant beans in a spot where other beans have grown in the past 3 years.
Wait to sow seeds until the soil has warmed up.
Soak seeds in compost tea for 20 minutes before planting.
To avoid spreading disease spores, don’t touch or work among wet plants.
Water moderately; wet soil yields weak, stunted plants and may cause flowers or pods to fall off.
Leave plenty of room between plants to encourage good air circulation.
Use soaker hoses for watering so leaves stay dry, because wet leaves make it easier for diseases to spread.
If disease strikes, pull up and discard plants; do not compost them. Also, rake up and discard any leaves or mulch around the plants to reduce the possibility of problems in future years.
SEE ALSO: For information on specific plant diseases, chapter 4.
Q What pests should I watch out for?
A The list of pests that love beans is long and includes aphids, various beetles — especially Mexican bean beetles — and leafhoppers. Installing floating row covers over bush beans when they’re still small keeps out all of these pests; in addition, they provide protection from cool temperatures early in the season.
SEE ALSO: For other options for dealing with common bean pests, page 153.
Q Help! My bean plants were doing well, but then they stopped producing. What happened?
A Diseases are one reason beans stop producing, but there are a few other causes for stalled pod production. Check the following:
UNPICKED MATURE PODS. Check carefully for missed pods and pick them. Plants stop producing if seeds mature.
HEAT AND DROUGHT. Flowers drop if the soil gets too dry or if the weather is too hot. Heat and drought may finish bush-bean production, but pole beans may resume production if you give them time and wait until conditions improve. To give pole beans a jump start, try removing pods and flowers, and cutting plants back to about 6'/1.8 m, then resume watering.
RAIN-DAMAGED FLOWERS. Hard, pounding rain can damage flowers, which will cause plants to stop producing. Once they recover from the deluge, the plants will begin flowering and bearing again.
Provide a spot in full sun for root crops if possible; if not, they’ll tolerate partial shade.
Sow seeds in a bed with deeply dug soil free of rocks and roots.
Thin plants to encourage large roots to develop, but don’t bother to thin if you are growing plants for greens alone.
Q I know I can grow radishes in spring. Can I plant any other root crops then?
A Beets, radishes, parsnips, rutabagas, and turnips share a love for cool weather, and growing them when temperatures are cool is the secret to sweet, crisp roots. Start sowing spring radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked, and plants will be ready for harvest in as little as 3 weeks. Fast, even growth is the secret to a good crop. Sow new crops every week or 10 days until daytime temperatures remain above about 65°F/18.3°C. After that, the roots will be bitter and tough, not spicy and crisp.
Beets and turnips also can be grown in spring, but they take slightly longer than radishes — from seed, beets take 1 to 2 months, turnips 1 to 2 months. Beets germinate in 45°F/7.2°C soil, but you’ll probably get better results if you wait a bit and sow both beets and turnips once the soil is at least 50°F/10°C. If you harvest turnips when they’re still small, you can sow successive crops every 10 days until warm temperatures (daytime highs in the low 70s/21-23°C) arrive to spread out the harvest.
Some long-season or winter radishes also can be sown at the same time as beets and turnips in spring. Look for bolt-resistant cultivars that mature in 40 or 50 days, and sow as soon as the soil can be worked.
Parsnips are the slowpokes of this group. Sow them in early to mid-spring for fall harvest.
Q My mom and dad always grew root crops, but I never paid much attention to how they took care of them. Are root crops hard to grow?
A Root crops certainly aren’t the rock stars of the vegetable garden, but gardeners who grow them love them. They all are easy to grow, need similar conditions, and, with the exception of radishes, are also quite nutritious. Here’s a quick “who’s who” of the root crops.
BEETS (Beta vulgaris, Crassa group. Goosefoot family, Chenopodiaceae). Round or globe-shaped, red beets are best known, but home gardeners also can grow beets with thick, carrot-shaped roots, as well as ones with yellow, white, or red and white flesh. Primarily grown for their sweet-tasting, tender roots, all beets have edible leaves, too.
PARSNIPS (Pastinaca sativa. Carrot family, Apiaceae). These produce long, white, carrotlike roots that are nutty and sweet tasting.
RADISHES (Raphanus sativus. Mustard family, Brassicaceae). White-fleshed, red-skinned radishes are the best known, but home gardeners have many other choices. Spring radishes (Radicula group) are fast growing, while long-season or winter radishes (Daikon group) produce larger roots and take longer to mature. Flavor varies from spicy to mild, depending on the cultivar and growing conditions, and both types have edible leaves.
RUTABAGAS (Brassica napus, Napobrassica group. Mustard family, Brassicaceae). A cross between turnip and cabbage, this little-grown crop is called by a variety of names, including yellow, Canadian, Russian, or Swedish turnip, or just plain swedes. Plants bear edible greens and round yellow- or white-fleshed roots that feature a sweet, mild taste.
TURNIPS (Brassica rapa, Mustard family, Brassicaceae). This easy-care crop produces rounded roots that are sweet and mild tasting, plus nutritious, edible greens. Roots can be white, red, yellow, black, or bicolor (purple, red and white, or green and white).
SEE ALSO: For information on carrots, another favorite root crop, pages 231-237.
Q How do I figure out when to plant root crops for a fall harvest?
A All of the root crops will provide a good fall harvest if you time your planting right. To determine when to start any of these crops for fall harvest, start with the days to maturity, which you’ll find listed on the seed packet or in catalog information. On a calendar, count back that number of days from the first fall frost date in your area to arrive at the date to sow your seeds.
For the best beets and spring radishes, harvest as quickly as they mature. For the best-quality turnips, rutabagas, winter radishes, and parsnips, the objective is to time crops so they are ready to harvest after a couple of light fall frosts, which improve both flavor and texture. That generally means mid- to late-summer sowing, but in warm climates, sow in fall for a winter crop. Keep in mind that while light frost improves texture and flavor, freezing destroys the roots. Dig them before a freeze or mulch heavily to protect the roots and lengthen the amount of time plants can be left in the garden.
SEE ALSO: For information on mulching, pages 105–109.
Q What do I need to do to prepare the soil for root crops?
A Root crops have similar soil preferences, and all will grow best in prepared vegetable garden soil that is well drained and rich in organic matter. However, a bit of extra soil preparation is necessary to ensure that the roots develop properly. To prepare the soil for any of these crops, dig deeply and incorporate compost or other organic matter throughout. While spring radishes grow fine in soil tilled to about 8"/20.3 cm, for other root crops dig soil and incorporate organic matter to a depth of 12-15"/30.5-38 cm or 18"-24"/45.7-61 cm for parsnips. Also, remove rocks, dirt clods, and roots, which cause forked or misshapen roots. Soil pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.8 is fine for radishes, while beets, parsnips, turnips, and rutabagas are happy in a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. Since heat and drought generally lead to small, woody roots, mulch is another essential for growing these root crops. Once plants are up and growing, cover the soil around them with organic matter — grass clippings, chopped leaves, or other light, loose mulch is fine — to keep conditions moist and as cool as possible.
Q I’ve tried parsnips before, but the seeds don’t germinate. Any advice?
A Parsnip seed is notoriously slow — it takes 3 to 4 weeks to germinate in 50°F/10°C soil. Try the following to get the seeds up and growing:
Soak seeds in water overnight before sowing.
Sow thickly in rows or wide beds when the soil is still cool. In warm climates, from Zone 8 south, sow in fall for an early spring crop.
Sow parsnip seeds ½"/1.3 cm deep, then lightly sow some spring radishes ¼" deep in the same row or bed. The quick-germinating radishes help keep the soil from crusting and will be ready for harvest about the time the parsnip seedlings emerge. (Sow the radishes farther apart than you would normally, so you will be less likely to uproot any parsnip seedlings as you harvest the radishes.)
Keep the soil evenly moist until seedlings appear.
Cover the seeds with screened compost or packaged seed-germinating mix instead of garden soil. Or, cover the area with a very lightweight row cover.
There’s no rule that says your root crops have to be planted in arrow-straight rows, and sometimes other arrangements are easier, faster, and more space efficient. Wide rows are one alternative, but simple block planting is another great option. Simply mark out a square or rectangular space that’s no more than about 3'/.9 m wide, so you can easily reach into the center of the bed to tend plants. Then scatter seed evenly across the entire block. Or mix tiny seeds with a bit of white sandbox sand so you can see where you’ve sown it. If you prefer, mark a grid on the soil surface with a trowel or other small hand tool — 3"x3" to 4"x4"/7.6x7.6 to 10.2x10.2 cm squares are fine — and then sow the same number of seeds in each square. Spread them out according to the proper spacing for the crop you are sowing.
SEE ALSO: For advice about wide rows, page 22.
Q Do I have to thin out root crop seedlings?
A That depends on whether you want roots, greens, or both. If you’re growing for greens only, sow at the rates listed below, and don’t worry about thinning.
If your goal is to harvest sweet, tender roots, be ruthless about thinning to the final recommended spacing. Thin when plants are still small — 2"-3"/5-7.6 cm tall — and cut the plants off rather than pulling them, to minimize damage to the remaining seedlings. All these crops grow well in rows spaced a foot/.3 m or so apart, or plant them in blocks and thin so plants are equally spaced on all sides. Mulch after thinning to suppress weeds and keep the soil cool.
Sow beets, radishes, and parsnips about ½"/1.3 cm deep; rutabagas and turnips ¼"-½"/.63-1.3 cm. Space and thin them as follows:
BEETS. Sow 2"-4"/5-10.2 cm apart in rows, and thin to 4"-6"/10.2-15.2 cm apart while still small. In most cases each beet “seed” is actually a small fruit that contains a cluster of seeds, so no matter how carefully you space them out, you’ll still need to thin. Cultivars described as single-seeded or monogerm bear one seed per “seed.”
PARSNIPS. Sow seeds thickly, and thin to 4"-6"/10.2-15.2 cm when they are still small.
RADISHES. Sow seeds 1"/2.5 cm apart. Thin spring radish seedlings to 2"/5 cm; winter radishes 6"/15cm.
RUTABAGAS. Sow seeds 1"/2.5 cm apart and thin to 8"/20.3 cm.
TURNIPS. Sow seeds 1"/2.5 cm apart and thin to 4"/10cm.
Q What else helps root crops to grow quickly?
A Consistently even soil moisture is crucial, since uneven soil moisture yields tough or stringy roots and bitter taste. To encourage fast growth, mulch root crops with several inches of grass clippings, compost, or other organic mulch to keep the soil cool and preserve moisture. Make sure plants get 1"/2.5 cm of water per week.
To keep flea beetles and other insect pests at bay, cover beets, radishes, rutabagas, parsnips, and turnips with floating row covers (see page 134) as soon as the seedlings emerge.
A Radishes, rutabagas, turnips, and parsnips don’t need supplemental feeding, provided they’re planted in well-prepared, compost-rich soil. Beets do benefit from supplemental feeding: Once their first true leaves are fully open, apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer every 3 weeks by sidedressing or foliar feeding. Or water weekly with a dilute solution of fish emulsion and kelp extract.
Q When do I harvest greens from these crops?
A You can harvest greens from all of the root crops except parsnips. Pick leaves when they are still young and tender. If you are growing for greens only, pull entire plants or pick as many leaves as you need. If you want roots, too, take only a few leaves from each plant, so there are enough left to fuel root growth. And don’t forget that as you thin your seedlings, you can save and wash the seedlings you clip to add to salads.
Q How can I tell when the roots are ready?
A Pick spring radishes just before or as soon as they reach full size, since they decline quickly. (To check on the size of any of these root crops, gently brush soil away from around the plant to reveal the top of the root.) Bigger isn’t better for any of the other crops either. Harvest when they are still small and tender: beets, 1"-2½"/2.5-6.3 cm wide; rutabagas, beginning when they are about 3"/7.6 cm across; turnips 1"-2"/2.5-5 cm wide. Harvest size for winter radishes varies depending on the cultivar, but small is best here, too. Dig parsnips anytime they’re large enough to use, but along with turnips, winter radishes, and rutabagas, they’re best if harvested after a few light frosts, so wait to harvest if you can.
Q What’s the best way to harvest?
A For most root crops, pulling them up gently works fine, provided the soil is loose. You’ll need to dig parsnips, which have fairly deep taproots. Dig any of these crops if you feel resistance when you try to pull them or the roots will simply break off in the ground. When digging, start outside the row to avoid bruising the roots. To store beets, parsnips, winter radishes, rutabagas, and turnips in the refrigerator, twist off the greens an inch or two above the root, and store in plastic bags. For longer storage (up to 6 months), pack the roots, dusted off but unwashed, in damp sand, peat, or sawdust at 32°-40°F/0°-4.4°C. (Check regularly, since low humidity causes shriveling.) All of these crops also can be mulched deeply and left in the garden for harvesting, as needed, at least until the ground freezes. You can leave parsnip roots in the ground over winter and harvest before new foliage emerges.
Q What’s wrong with my beets? They’re tough and woody.
A Tough, woody beets, turnips, and other root crops — along with bitter radishes — are all caused by poor growing conditions. Use these tips to ensure a tasty, tender harvest:
Keep the soil evenly moist, never too dry or too wet.
Harvest root crops when they’re still small and tender.
Incorporate plenty of compost into the soil at planting time.
Time root crops so they either grow entirely or reach harvestable size when temperatures are cool.
Q Something chewed slimy, winding tunnels in my turnips and radishes! How can I prevent this for the next crop?
A Cabbage maggots probably caused this damage: Look for tiny grubs in the roots. Infested plants often have yellowed leaves and frequently wilt during the heat of the day because the tunneling damages the plant’s root system. Pull and destroy any infested plants growing in your garden. To reduce populations apply beneficial nematodes before planting (follow package directions carefully). Also, at the end of the season make sure you remove all the roots in the garden. Otherwise, any larvae they contain can overwinter there.
Cabbage maggot tunnels in a turnip
Q My root-crop plants have little tiny roots, not big fat ones. What happened?
A Overcrowding is the most common cause when beets and other root crops don’t develop. It’s essential that you thin cut enough seedlings so that remaining roots don’t touch one another. Soil that’s too dry also prevents fleshy roots from developing. Be sure that plants receive 1"/2.5 cm of water per week.
Grow these crops in spring, fall, or whenever temperatures in your area are cool for at least 8 weeks.
Provide partial shade if temperatures are likely to be above 80°F/26.6°C during the growing season.
Cover transplants with floating row covers to protect them from insect pests.
Q What do all these vegetables have in common?
A For one thing, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi all belong to one species, Brassica oleracea. They’re collectively referred to as brassicas or cole crops, and while the timing is slightly different from crop to crop, all need similar cultural conditions. Some brassicas are easier to grow than others, but all are vegetables that thrive in cool weather and are primarily grown as spring or fall crops throughout much of North America. They all thrive in soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, and kohlrabi tolerate soil that is as acid as pH 5.5, while cauliflower takes soil that ranges up to pH 7.4.
Q Can I grow broccoli, cabbage, and other brassicas in the same spot year after year?
A The downside of the close family tie of these crops is that they also share a variety of pests and diseases. For best results, rotate the location of brassicas every year. Ideally, you want to maintain a 3-year rotation, so you grow a brassica in a particular spot only once every 3 years. Even then, common diseases may be a problem, because they persist in the soil for many years. Brassicas tend to be heavy feeders, so plant them after a legume crop, such as peas or beans, or after a legume cover crop, such as clover.
Q I always grow a spring crop of cabbage. Can I add broccoli and cauliflower to my spring planting?
A Yes, provided you time crops so they’ll be ready to harvest before hot weather arrives. For spring crops it’s also a good idea to select short-season or early cultivars for spring plantings. Although you can direct sow, for best results start seeds indoors. Be sure to harden off all seedlings before transplanting them to the garden.
BROCCOLI. Start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost date; transplant 2 weeks before the last frost.
CABBAGE. Start seeds 6 to 9 weeks before the last spring frost; transplant 1 to 3 weeks before the last frost once the soil is at least 40°F/4.4°C.
CAULIFLOWER. Start seeds no more than 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost; transplant 1 to 2 weeks before the last frost, once the soil is at least 55°F/12.7°C. Younger seedlings transplant best, and transplanting at 4 to 5 weeks is ideal.
Q What spacing do brassicas need?
A Unless otherwise noted below, space rows 2'-3'/.6-.9 m apart.
BROCCOLI. In spring, space transplants 15"-18"/38-45.7 cm apart. Plants are a bit larger in fall, so space plants 18"-24"/45.7-61 cm apart.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Space transplants 18"-24"/45.7-61 cm apart.
CABBAGE. Space transplants anywhere from 12"-24"/30.5-61 cm apart, depending on the mature size of the head of the cultivar you are growing, in rows 1'-2'/.3-.6 m apart.
CAULIFLOWER. In spring, space plants 15"-18"/38-45.7 cm apart. Space fall crops 18"-24"/45.7-61 cm apart.
Q Do spring transplants need any special care? I know they like cool weather, but it’s still really cold outside!
A While brassicas thrive in cool temperatures, they do need protection from really cold weather. Harden off transplants, and cover them with row covers in the garden, which protect them from cold wind and also keep pests at bay. Use a double layer of row covers at first for a bit of extra cold protection, then switch to a single layer for pest control only. Set broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower transplants slightly deeper than they were growing in their pots to protect their stems.
Q How do I plan for a fall brassica crop? That means starting seeds in summer, right?
A Exact sowing schedules vary, depending on what cultivar you’re growing and where you live. To determine fall planting dates for crops that are to be harvested after the first fall frost, note the number of days to maturity on the seed packet or in the catalog. Also note whether that number is from transplanting or from seed sowing. Count backward that number of days from the first fall frost date in your area. Add 6 to 8 weeks if you are starting from seed and the days-to-maturity given is from transplanting. In general for brassicas, plan on sowing seeds for broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower about 2½ to 3 months before the first fall frost date. Sow Brussels sprouts seeds indoors 3 to 4 months before the first fall frost. Move transplants to the garden about 6 to 8 weeks later.
Q My broccoli transplants always get so stressed by the heat, and so do the other brassicas. What can I do to ease the transition?
A While hardening off is important for all seedlings, brassicas that are transplanted into the garden in summer need extra TLC to weather the heat. Transplant on a cloudy day or during a spell of rainy weather. Try to look for a spot where the seedlings will be shaded by crops that are nearly ready for harvest so these other crops will be picked and cut down before frost. If you can’t find a naturally shaded spot, it’s a good idea to provide shade by propping bushel baskets over plants, covering them with burlap supported on wire hoops, or putting up temporary shelters of your own devising. Leave these temporary shelters in place for 2 or 3 days to give transplants time to adjust to the harsher conditions outdoors. Since these crops don’t tolerate heat and drought well, and even temporary drought stress can damage the crop, be sure the soil is evenly moist at all times. Test it by sticking a finger into the soil, and water if the top couple of inches feels dry — daily if necessary.
Q I live along the Gulf Coast, and our summers are much too hot for any of these crops. Is there a way that I can still grow them?
A Yes. All the brassicas, from cabbage and broccoli to kohlrabi, are great candidates for growing from winter to early spring in the Deep South. You can try sowing seeds of early or short-season cultivars in late winter, but for best results, start crops in late summer or fall for harvest from winter to very early spring. Since the soil is hot in late summer, it’s best to start seeds indoors and grow transplants. To spread out the harvest, plan on starting several small plantings in succession.
SEE ALSO: For more about succession planting, pages 59–61.
Q My garden is in Maine, and it freezes early here. Can I grow some of these crops in summer?
A Broccoli, cabbage, and other brassicas make fine summer crops in areas where average temperatures stay between 60-75°F/5.5-24°C. Broccoli and cauliflower are especially sensitive to warm temperatures, and probably won’t produce a good crop if exposed to a long bout of temperatures in the 80s/26.5-31.6°C. If your area receives spells of 80°F/26.5°C weather, it’s best to plan on a fall crop and use plastic row covers to protect plants from early freezes.
Q I’ve figured out my planting schedule for brassicas. Do I give all of them the same care after planting?
A Yes, for the most part they all need similar care. The soil should be kept evenly moist. To give your brassica transplants an extra boost, you may want to water them with compost tea once a week. All benefit from floating row covers, which prevent insect pest problems. Read on for special care and harvest tips about each crop.
Q What do I need to know about selecting cabbage?
A Cabbages come in green (white at the center of the head) and red. In addition to smooth-textured types, there also are Savoy cabbages, which have a handsome corrugated texture and great flavor. There are early, midseason, and late cultivars as well. Keep the following distinctions in mind:
EARLY. Also called spring cabbages, these take 50 to 60 days to mature from transplanting. They’re mild tasting, great for fresh use, tend to produce smaller heads, and are perfect for growing a quick crop of cabbage in spring.
MIDSEASO These cultivars take 70 to 85 days from transplanting to mature. They are the most popular main-season cabbages.
LATE. These take at least 85 days to mature from transplanting. They have stronger flavor and are better for storage than early and midseason cultivars.
Q What’s the secret to growing good cabbage?
A It’s important to time crops so that the heads develop when the weather is cool. Throughout much of North America, cabbage is grown in spring or fall. In the South and Southwest, it’s a winter crop. Since cabbages are largely water, regular watering is important; the soil should be evenly moist at all times. Watch transplants especially closely in summer (for fall crops) to make sure they aren’t stressed in hot weather. Mulch deeply. Stressed plants grow more slowly and may not form heads. Feed plants with a weak solution of fish emulsion for the first 3 weeks after transplanting or sidedress plants with well-rotted manure 3 weeks after transplanting.
Sidedressing cabbage
Q Is Chinese cabbage the same as regular cabbage?
A Although it’s grown much like regular cabbage, Chinese cabbage is actually more closely related to turnips. (Both belong to Brassica rapa; turnips are Rapifera group, Chinese cabbage is Pekinensis group.) Chinese cabbage is typically planted in fall, although newer hybrids that resist bolting can be sown in spring. Plant seeds outdoors on the last frost date in spring. For an autumn crop, sow 3 months before the first fall frost date. Sow seeds 3"-4"/7.6-10.2 cm apart and thin plants to 1'-1½'/.3-.45 m apart. Thin seedlings when they are still small to minimize stress, and keep in mind that any kind of stress leads to bitter flavor. Plants need plenty of water to thrive (they’re good candidates for soaker hoses or drip irrigation), as well as topdressing with compost manure or a high-nitrogen fertilizer and mulching so the soil will stay moist and cool. Smaller heads generally taste best, so don’t wait too long to harvest. Pick the leaves individually or cut entire heads. Harvest your spring crop before hot weather arrives and your fall crop before the first freeze.
Smooth-leafed cabbage
Chinese cabbage
Savoy cabbage
Q When do I harvest my cabbages?
A Begin to pick them as soon as they are hard and firm, even if the heads are only 5"-6"/12.7-15.2 cm across. Use a knife, and cut just below the firm part of the head. Leave the uncut leaves and stem intact, and your plants may form a second crop of small heads.
Q I don’t have room in my refrigerator for more than a couple of cabbage heads. How can I harvest cabbage at the right time and still have room to store it?
A There are two easy ways to spread out the cabbage harvest: Start small successive crops (as few as two or three plants) every 10 days to 2 weeks. To spread out the fall harvest, grow early, midseason, and late cultivars — the time they take to reach maturity will spread out the harvest for you. You can also plant small succession plantings of all three every 10 days. Close spacing also helps control size: For smaller heads, space cabbage transplants 12"/30.5 cm apart.
Q If I decide to plant broccoli and cauliflower in both spring and fall, do I plant the same cultivars or different ones?
A Cauliflower needs temperatures in the 60s/15.5-20.5°C in order for the heads to mature properly, and cool weather can be hard to come by in many parts of North America by late spring. If you get an early start by prewarming the soil and growing plants under a tunnel of plastic when the weather is still too cold, you may be able to harvest a crop before hot summer weather arrives. It’s far easier to grow cauliflower as a fall crop.
Read catalog descriptions carefully and note their recommendations. You’ll find cultivars recommended for quick or early spring crops that can tolerate a bit of summer heat. Heat-tolerant cultivars aren’t necessarily the best for fall crops, though, where the ability to withstand frost is paramount. There are also cultivars with disease resistance, and these can eliminate major headaches if diseases are prevalent where you garden. If you haven’t grown broccoli before, planting a mix of cultivars may be the best approach, since they perform differently. Nursery catalogs have recognized that this is a good approach, and you’ll find seed of hybrid mixes offered.
Q How do I get cauliflower ready for harvest?
A To produce mild-tasting, snowy white cauliflower, you need to blanch the heads or restrict light. Starting when the heads are about 2"/5 cm across (the size of a chicken egg), gather up the leaves that surround the central head and tie them together with twine. Gather gently, and tie just tightly enough to cover the heads without crushing the leaves completely. Use a bow or a slip knot, because you’ll need to check regularly for maturity. Once heads are 3"-4"/7.6-10.2 cm across, check daily and cut the heads while they are still tight and hard.
Blanching cauliflower
Q When is broccoli ready to pick?
A The heads, which are actually clusters of flower buds, are ready for harvest as soon as they are large enough to use. (Early on, when the head is small and first emerging, it may look yellow or yellowish green. Wait until it turns deep green as it enlarges.) After it has enlarged and turned green, be sure to cut the head before any part of it begins to turn yellow, which indicates the flowers are getting ready to open.
Q When I’m harvesting broccoli, is there a way I can encourage side shoots to form?
A Use a sharp knife to cut about 2"/5 cm below the main head. After that, check plants frequently, and harvest smaller side shoots as soon as they are large enough to use. Frequent harvesting encourages new side shoots to continue to form.
Cutting a broccoli side shoot
Q My grandmother used to grow collards and kale in her garden. Are they easy to grow?
A Both crops are easy and quite forgiving, since they tolerate both heat and cold. Both are best grown in fall. For a spring crop, sow collards outdoors 3 weeks before the last spring frost date; kale, as soon as the soil can be worked. Indoors, start transplants 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date, and transplant 2 weeks before the last frost. For fall harvest, sow collards or kale outdoors about 3 months before the first fall frost. Thin to 1½'-2'/.45-.6 m apart, and start harvesting as soon as the leaves are large enough to use. Or pull entire plants at any stage, and succession plant new crops every few weeks to keep the supply coming.
Q Kohlrabi is the weirdest looking vegetable I’ve ever seen! Is it hard to grow?
A While it looks something like the vegetable world’s answer to a sea urchin, kohlrabi is actually a cross between a cabbage and a turnip. It’s an easy, fast-growing crop with edible leaves and a crisp, swollen base that’s tender and mild tasting. The bulbous stems are ready to harvest from 38 to 60 days from sowing, and it’s easy to start them right in the garden. In spring, sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. They’re ideal fall crops: Begin sowing seed 8 to 10 weeks before the first fall frost. Space seeds 3"/7.6 cm apart, then thin to 6"/15.2 cm when the plants have a couple of true leaves. To spread out the harvest, plant small batches of seed every week or so in spring as long as the weather remains cool, then begin again in fall. In Zones 9 and 10, plant kohlrabi through the winter months.
Harvesting kohlrabi
Q Can I grow Brussels sprouts in spring?
A A touch of frost improves the taste and quality of the sprouts, so Brussels sprouts are best timed to mature after frost. Since they need a long season — they take about 3 months from transplanting — in areas with short seasons, you’ll still need to start plants in spring and transplant to the garden roughly just after tomatoes go into the ground to have them ready in time.
Q I remember Brussels sprouts from my mother’s garden, and they didn’t have leaves along the stems. Mine have lots of leaves. Do I need to pull them off?
A Sprouts form all along the main stem of a Brussels sprouts plant, one sprout just above where each leaf stem is attached. Remove the leaves below the sprouts as sprouts form. Also remove any leaves that turn yellow. It’s best to clip off the leaves with garden shears rather than pull them.
Cut off Brussels sprotus leaves as sprouts form.
Brussels sprouts will continue growing and producing sprouts until temperatures no longer rise above 50°F/10°C, and you can let them just keep growing until then. To encourage plants to ripen all at once, wait until the sprouts on the bottom 1'/.3 m of your plants are about ½"/1.3 cm in diameter, then cut off the top few inches of each plant. The rest of the sprouts will be ready to pick in about 2 weeks.
Q Do I pick all the sprouts at once? How do I tell when they’re ready?
A Sprouts are ready to use when they’re about ¾”/1.9 cm wide, and you can pick them over the course of several weeks. Be sure to harvest sprouts while they are under 1½"/3.8 cm and still hard. Smaller sprouts are likely to be the most tender. You can also cut the entire stalk and store it in a cool spot.
Q I know I’ve seen insects eating my cabbage and broccoli leaves. What kinds of pests and diseases do I need to watch out for?
A Brassicas do have their share of pests, but they are relatively easy to control if you use the tips below.
Use row covers to keep pests off transplants. Tuck the row covers in along the edges with soil to make sure pests can’t crawl underneath.
If your plants aren’t covered, handpick cabbage loopers and other caterpillars regularly.
Clean up the garden thoroughly after each crop to prevent pests and disease organisms from surviving from one crop to the next or over the winter months.
Include annuals and perennials with small flowers in your garden or in beds alongside it; these flowers attract beneficial insects that prey on aphids and other pests.
To prevent diseases, look for brassica crops with built-in resistance or tolerance.
Don’t compost plants that show evidence of disease: Discard them in the trash.
SEE ALSO: For more on pests and diseases, pages 146–162.
Q My broccoli plants produced heads, but they were tiny and runty looking. What caused this?
A This condition is called buttoning, and it also can be a problem with cauliflower. Buttoning is caused by seedlings that are exposed to cold temperatures at the wrong time, and fortunately, it’s preventable. Although really small seedlings can usually withstand cold temperatures, once they get larger (when stems are about as thick as a pencil) cold temperatures have a different effect, causing the transplants to produce small flower heads that never grow very large. Since exposure to a few days of temperatures in the 50s/10-15°C can cause buttoning, don’t rush to transplant broccoli or cauliflower if spring weather is especially unsettled. Protect plants that are already out in the garden when cold weather is predicted.
“Button” head on broccoli
Q My cabbage bloomed instead of forming a head. What happened?
A Like cauliflower and broccoli, cabbage seedlings can be accidentally tricked into flowering too soon. Avoid exposing cabbage plants to temperatures that are too cold — below 50°F/10°C. Protect plants already in the garden with hot caps, cloches, or other protection.
Q My cauliflower plants never did anything last summer. The transplants seemed really healthy, but they just didn’t grow. Any idea what happened?
A With all brassicas, it’s important to avoid stressing the plants, because stress slows down growth or causes plants to stop growing altogether. When hardening off transplants, don’t withhold water or nutrients. Instead, gradually expose them to increasing amounts of sunlight. Transplant on a cloudy day, and make sure the soil is evenly moist to minimize transplant shock. If you are aiming for an early start for your crop, plan on shielding transplants with cloches, hot caps, row covers, or other protection.
Q My cabbages were looking perfect, but then the heads cracked open! What happened?
A Too much water can cause heads to crack once they are near maturity. If there’s a spell of rainy weather near harvest time, use a spade to slice about 6"/15.2 cm into the soil halfway around each plant. This cuts the roots and reduces the amount of water the plant takes up. It also slows growth and allows you to postpone harvesting. This trick is also a good one to use on one-third to one-half of your crop if all the heads are maturing at once.
Q Sometimes a head of cauliflower separates into several sections as it develops instead of staying solid. What causes this?
A A period of drought followed by a period of wet conditions can cause cauliflower heads to separate. Keep the soil evenly moist, especially after heads begin to form. Mulch also helps even out soil moisture. (Heat and drought can also lead to bitter-tasting heads.) Or you may have simply waited too long to harvest. Either way, it’s worth it to cut the head and taste it. It is still probably usable. Leaves emerging from the center of the head can be caused by overmaturity, hot dry weather, or soil that contains too much nitrogen.
Q My latest batch of kale was bitter and tough. What’s the secret to the sweet, tender leaves I remember from my grandmother’s garden?
A Fast, even growth is the secret to the best-tasting collards and kale, so water regularly to maintain even soil moisture. Mulch also helps conserve soil moisture and hold weeds in check. One reason fall crops are better than spring ones is that taste improves after the plants are exposed to fall frost, so don’t hurry to harvest if cold weather threatens. In fact, both crops can be harvested in the snow. In areas with severe winters, protect the plants with a deep layer of straw mulch or with heavyweight row-cover fabric. In warm weather cool the leaves quickly after picking them by plunging them into ice water.
Q My kohlrabi has tough, hard stems that are bitter tasting. What did I do wrong?
A Tough kohlrabi stems can be a signal that your soil either is too dry or doesn’t drain well. But if the rest of your crops are thriving, perhaps the problem is hot weather, rather than your soil. Kohlrabi is happiest in cool weather, though it tolerates heat as long as it gets enough water. To make sure your crop isn’t suffering from moisture stress, work in 1" - 2"/2.5-5 cm of extra compost at planting time. Mulching helps preserve moisture, which is critical to a good-quality crop. It’s also important not to wait too long to harvest plants. Watch them carefully, and begin harvesting before the swollen stems become too large. In spring, cut them when stems are about 2"/5 cm in diameter; in fall they can reach 4"-5"/10.2-12.7 cm without being woody.
Prepare the soil deeply, removing rocks, soil clods, and other debris.
Sprinkle vermiculite, potting soil, or sifted compost over seeds instead of using garden soil when sowing.
Keep the seedbed evenly moist, watering twice a day if necessary. Floating row covers also help conserve moisture.
Q I’ve tried to grow long, pointed carrots like you see in the grocery store, but in my soil, they never do well! Any suggestions?
A While Bugs Bunny and many others like to snack on the long, narrow, tapered carrots called Imperators, they are not the best type for most home gardeners to grow. That’s because Imperator cultivars were developed for mechanical harvesting, meaning they not only need deep, perfectly loose soil, but also are tougher or less crisp than other types, so that they don’t break during harvest. Shorter-rooted types are a better choice for most home gardens. Try one or more of these:
NANTES. Nantes carrot cultivars are the most popular for backyard gardens. They are 5"-7"/12.7-17.8 cm long and grow in a somewhat wider range of soils. Nantes carrots are both sweeter and crisper than Imperators.
BALL-TYPE. For heavy soil, consider Paris Market types (‘Thumbelina’ is one), which are also called ball-type carrots. These are sweet, beet-shaped carrots with round 1"-1½"/2.5-3.8 cm roots.
CHANTENAY. Chantenays are chunky, blunt-tipped carrots, 4"-6"/10.2-15.2 cm long, that are an especially good choice for growing in heavy soil. They’re crisp and sweet-tasting.
DANVERS. Developed in Danvers, Massachusetts, these carrots grow well in a wide range of soils but aren’t quite as sweet as Nantes types.
Q Are “baby” carrots just young carrots, or is there a difference? Are they easy to grow?
A Until recently, the ball-shaped Paris Market carrots, such as ‘Thumbelina’, were the only options for small carrots, but newer baby carrots are fun to grow, too, and a great crop for children’s gardens. When growing baby carrots, select a cultivar developed specifically for its dainty roots, since full-size carrots won’t necessarily have good flavor if they’re harvested when they are still small. (Carrot flavor continues to develop as they grow and is at its peak after they’ve reached full size.) ‘Bambina’, ‘Baby Spike’, ‘Little Finger’, ‘Minicor’, and ‘Short ‘n Sweet’ are all fingerling, or baby, carrot cultivars to look for.
Q How can I spread out my carrot harvest?
A Instead of sowing long rows of carrots all at the same time, to spread out the harvest, plan on sowing small crops of early- or short-season carrots every 2 or 3 weeks in spring. Carrots grow best at temperatures between 60-75°F/15.5-23.8°C, so stop sowing once temperatures routinely reach about 80°F/26.6°C. Wait until cooler weather returns in fall, then resume sowing.
Q What’s the key to growing great carrots?
A Loose, deeply dug soil is crucial. For best results, it’s worth it to double-dig a bed, so you end up with 12"-16"/30.5-40.6 cm of loose, prepared soil. Begin by removing grass and weeds from the site, then spread over the site at least a 3"-4"/7.6-10.2 cm-thick layer of compost or other organic matter, which will be worked into the soil.
1. Dig a trench about 8"/20.3 cm deep and 1 ‘/.3 m wide along one edge of the planting area. Pile the removed soil on a tarp or in a wheelbarrow.
2. Spread at least an 1"/2.5 cm-thick layer of compost or other organic matter over the bottom of the trench, then work it into the soil with a garden fork.
3. Dig another trench next to the first, turning the soil into the previous trench. Then add more organic matter to the bottom of the new trench, and fork it in.
4. Continue this process until you reach the other end of the planting area. Fill the last trench with the soil removed from the first one. As you work, be sure to remove rocks, roots, and hard clumps of soil: Carrots that encounter even small sticks in the soil may fork or branch.
Q I have clay soil. Does that mean I can’t grow carrots?
A Don’t try to grow them in unamended clay, but if you work enough compost into clay soil — and then refrain from walking on it after that — you can grow great carrots. Short-rooted carrots like ball and fingerling types are good choices, but in deeply dug soil, so are Nantes, Chantenay, and Danvers cultivars. For even better results, grow carrots in raised beds filled with a mix of soil and compost, perhaps with as much as one-third vermiculite if your soil is really clayey. Another option is to use potting soil to fill raised beds. If you use bagged soil, avoid potting soil that contains chemical fertilizer. Organic bagged potting soil is okay, but make sure it does not contain too much nitrogen, which causes carrots to produce hairy, misshapen roots.
Q I have access to free cow manure. Is there any disadvantage to adding a lot of that?
A Carrots do need plenty of organic matter, because it helps the soil stay moist and light, and moist soil yields sweet, crisp roots. But manure, along with too much of other sources of organic matter such as grass clippings or kitchen scraps, can cause problems. That’s because carrots that have access to too much nitrogen — either from manure or from ordinary fertilizer — produce misshapen roots that have so many fine feeder roots they look hairy. Also avoid rough organic matter such as crop debris, because large particles in the soil, even if they’re organic, can cause misshapen carrots.
Q How do I plant carrot seeds? I’ve had trouble getting them to come up in past years.
A Carrots aren’t the fastest plants out of the starting gate, that’s for sure. Start sowing 3 weeks before the last spring frost date (in warm climates, plant carrots in fall for winter harvest). Set the seeds ¼"-½"/.6-1.3 cm deep. Use the shallower depth in early spring, when the soil is still cool; plant slightly deeper once it has warmed up. Try to sow about six seeds per 1"/2.5 cm, and sow in a wide band or in a block to make it easier to keep track of where you’ve sown seeds. Carrot seedlings are tiny, and crusted soil prevents them from coming up, so instead of covering the seeds with soil, try covering them with a mix of loose soil combined with screened compost to prevent a crust from forming. Also, mist plantings; don’t water them heavily. Not only can water wash away the seeds, but pounding droplets cause crusting.
Double-cropping is another option that may work. Mix the seeds with spring radishes. The radishes germinate quickly, break up the soil crust, and will be ready for harvest about the time carrots are ready for thinning. Another option for encouraging seedlings is to prepare the soil and rake it smooth, water it, and sow seeds by spacing them out in blocks or wide rows. Cover the planting with a board or piece of plywood. Check daily for seedlings and remove the board the minute you see evidence of tiny white seedlings. Water very gently for the first few weeks, or you’ll wash away the tiny seedlings.
Double-cropping radishes and carrots
Q I just hate thinning seedlings! Is there any way to avoid this chore?
A You can use a dibble and make tiny holes, then sow individual seeds. It’s tedious, but it does eliminate the need to thin. Another option is to mix carrot seed with sand before sowing it. Or consider starting with pelleted carrot seed if you hate pulling up or cutting off those tiny, defenseless carrot seedlings. Pelleted seed is large enough to easily sow at the proper final spacing. Whatever you do, thin plants to 1"/2.5 cm spacing when they are 2"/5 cm tall, then thin again 2 weeks later so plants are 3"-4"/7.6-10.2 cm apart. For best results, thin by cutting off excess plants at the soil line using scissors, because pulling out seedlings may damage those that remain. If you don’t thin your seedlings, your carrot roots will be misshapen.
Q Once carrots are established and growing, is there anything else they need?
A “Steady as she goes” is probably the best way to think about carrot culture. Mulch seedlings once they’re large enough; the soil should be evenly moist but not wet. Spraying with compost tea helps plants grow quickly and can prevent disease problems. If the soil does dry out, rewet it gradually over the course of a few days; a sudden shift from dry to wet can cause your carrots to crack. Hand pull weeds or cut them off just below the soil surface to prevent damage to the roots. Floating row covers keep most insect pests at bay.
Q My carrots always are green at the tops. Why?
A Carrots push up out of the soil as they grow, and the part of the root that’s exposed to the sun turns green and gets bitter. To prevent this, hoe soil up around the crowns throughout the season or cover them well with mulch.
Q My carrots always seem to break off in the ground. How can I harvest them to prevent this?
A Baby and fingerling carrots are usually easy to get out of the ground: Just stick your fingers into the soil to pull them up. Longer cultivars need a more focused approach to get them up and out of the ground intact. First, loosen the soil along the row, several inches away from the plants, with a digging fork. Then pull the carrots by hand; a fork will bruise them. Use a trowel to loosen carrots that are reluctant to leave the soil.
Q How often do I need to harvest?
A Pull carrots every couple of days during the summertime, or they’ll go past their prime. In cool weather, they can remain in the soil for several weeks. To get them ready for storage, spread them out in the sun for a few hours to dry the soil that’s still clinging to the roots. Then, brush off as much soil as you can (don’t wash carrots before storing them), cut off the tops, and dry them in the sun for a few hours. Store them in plastic bags in the refrigerator. For longer storage, pack them in moist sawdust and keep them between 32°-40°F/0°-4.4°C
Q I live in Georgia. What do I do for fall and winter harvests?
A In the South, you can plant carrots in fall for harvest in spring. Like gardeners in most parts of the country, you can also store carrots right in the ground. (Where the ground freezes, cover them with up to 2'/.6 m of mulch, to keep the soil and the roots from freezing. Roots that freeze and then thaw crack and appear waterlogged.) Continue harvesting into the winter months. If you miss harvesting any plants, they’ll bring another benefit to your garden. Their lacy, white, flat-topped flowers attract a wide range of beneficial insects to the garden.
Q Ugh! Something has been tunneling in my carrots. Do I just throw them away?
A Both wireworms and carrot rust fly larvae tunnel through carrot roots. In either case, go ahead and harvest, then use a knife or a carrot peeler to remove the damaged sections. Use the damaged carrots promptly, though, since they won’t last in storage. To prevent these pests, you’ll need to identify the culprit.
CARROT RUST FLIES. The larvae of these pests are maggots that eat root hairs and tunnel across or through the surface of carrots. Control them by covering beds of carrots with floating row covers to prevent the adults from laying eggs near the plants. To kill maggots in the soil, apply parasitic nematodes.
WIREWORMS. These are the larvae of click beetles; they tunnel through carrot roots, leaving small, black entry holes. One way to control their numbers is to work the soil surface weekly in spring to expose them to birds and other predators. Use traps to control them before planting or even after your carrots are planted: Cut carrots or potatoes into 1"/2.5 cm cubes and stick them on a wooden barbeque skewer. Bury the pieces a few inches/cm apart and 2"-4"/5-10.2 cm deep, with the skewers still sticking out of the soil. Pull them up to check them twice a week, and either pull out and destroy pests that have tunneled in or replace the pieces with fresh pieces of carrot or potato. Another way to control wireworms is to interplant carrots (or potatoes) with thick rows or bands of wheat, oats, or lettuce. Pull up and destroy these crops about 4 weeks after you planted them.
You may actually want to plant a separate patch of carrots to feed parsleyworms, which are green caterpillars marked with black and yellow. Then, whenever you find a parsleyworm in your garden, move it to the “caterpillar patch.” Why protect parsleyworms? They’re the larvae of beautiful black swallowtail butterflies!
Parsleyworm
Black swallowtail butterfly
Q My carrot seedlings don’t look right. The leaves are yellow and misshapen, and overall, the plants are small and bushier than they should be. What’s wrong?
A Aster yellows cause these symptoms — older plants may have purplish leaves, and the leaves are brittle and break off easily. The roots are usually bitter and woody. Aster yellows is spread by leafhoppers, and securing floating row covers over plants prevents them from feeding on carrots and transmitting the disease. Unfortunately, once plants are infected there is no cure. Pull up infected plants and compost them.
Q I love Bugs Bunny, but the bunnies that are eating my carrots are driving me crazy! Is there anything I can do to keep them out?
A The best solution for all animal pests is to erect a fence. For rabbits, it needs to be only 2'/.6 m tall, and poultry wire works fine. Be sure to use landscape pins along the base of the fence to make sure the rabbits can’t wriggle under it. Short of a fence, try hanging shiny items like aluminum pie plates or old CDs from stakes so they flutter in the breeze. Some gardeners report success with repellents, such as blood meal, human hair, rottenegg sprays, or predator urine. Repellents are best reapplied every 2 weeks.
Time your planting to allow for a long, cool growing season, ideally about 4 months, with daytime temperatures in the 60s/15.5-20.5°C.
Amend the soil with extra organic matter, and water regularly, because celery plants are water hogs.
Protect young plants if temperatures are going to drop below 50°F/10°C by covering them with floating row covers or cloches. Exposure to cold weather can cause them to flower prematurely.
Q I’ve never seen celery growing in anybody’s home garden. Is it hard to grow?
A If you can give celery cool temperatures and rich, evenly moist soil, it isn’t hard to grow. Plants require daytime temperatures between 65-75°F/18.3-23.8°C to grow well. Celery was originally a marsh plant, so amend the soil before planting with a generous amount of compost and/or well-rotted manure to duplicate the rich, mucky soil the plants thrive in. Also, start with short-season cultivars, which mature in 80 days.
Q I’m in Indiana, where it’s hot in the summer. When do I plant celery?
A Grow celery as a spring or fall crop in areas like Indiana and Ohio, where it’s hot in the summer. In the far north and in the Pacific Northwest, it grows well as a summer crop. In the South, plant it in fall for a winter crop.
Q How do I start seedlings?
A Sow indoors 8 to 10 weeks before you plan to transplant to the garden. Soak seeds overnight before sowing, and fill individual containers with sterile seed-starting medium. Press several seeds into the surface of the medium of each pot, then barely cover with a thin layer of sand, since the seeds need some light to germinate. Give them good drainage but plenty of water, and make sure the soil mix temperature stays above 55°F/12.8°C but below 70°F/21.1°C. Thin to one plant per pot. Harden off seedlings, and move them to the garden when they’re about 6"/15.2 cm tall. Don’t transplant until temperatures remain above about 50°F/10°C, because cool weather can cause plants to bolt. Space plants 6"-8"/15.2-20.3 cm apart, and water immediately when you transplant.
Q What do celery plants need once they’re in the garden?
A Mulch plants, and make sure the soil stays evenly moist throughout the growing season. (Dry soil causes stringy, bitter stalks.) If you’re transplanting in summer for a fall crop, try to grow them in a spot that’s slightly shaded. They’re heavy feeders, so fertilize plants every 2 weeks to prevent problems like cracking and spindly stalks. To prevent bolting, cover them with floating row covers if nighttime temperatures dip below 55°F/12.7°C for more than a couple of days.
Q I’ve heard you have to blanch celery. How do you do it, and why?
A Actually, green-stalked celery is most common and has slightly more nutrition than blanched celery does. If you’d like to try blanching, one option is to gradually hoe mounds of soil up around the plants as they grow, but don’t cover up the leaves. You can also use paper milk cartons to blanch celery. Remove the tops and bottoms and open up the cartons along one side. Then place the carton around the plant and tie it in place with string. Or, box in plants with boards to keep out the sun. To harvest, cut the plants off just below the soil line with a sharp knife. In mild-winter areas, cut individual stalks as needed and leave the plants in the garden.
Blanching celery
Q I want to grow celery as a fall crop. What are its storage requirements?
A Celery stores for several months in a cool place. Fill boxes with sand or moist soil, pull up the plants, and heel them in, covering their roots with sand or soil.
Wait for warm weather to sow corn, at about the time of the last average spring frost: The soil temperature should be at least 60°F/15.5°C.
Ensure good pollination (and thus ears packed with plump kernels) by sowing corn in blocks of short rows rather than a single long row.
Sow new crops every couple of weeks for an extended harvest.
Q What’s the difference between various kinds of sweet corn? Are some sweeter than others?
A You’ll see three kinds of sweet corn listed in catalogs. Average production is about two ears per plant. Here’s a rundown of their characteristics:
NORMAL SUGARY. Cultivars of traditional sweet corn, called “Normal Sugary” or “su” cultivars, have varying amounts of sugar (from 5 to 10 percent) in the seeds. The sugars convert to starch when the ears are harvested, so they need to be eaten as soon after harvest as possible.
SUPER SWEET. These cultivars have 20 to 30 percent sugar. They’re also called “Shrunken” or sh2 cultivars because the kernels are shriveled when they are dry. Sugar in Super Sweet corn cultivars converts more slowly to starch than it does in other types of corn, and ears last for several days in the refrigerator. Super Sweet cultivars are less vigorous, less tolerant of cold temperatures (don’t sow seed that hasn’t been treated with a fungicide until the soil is 75°F/23.9°C), and are far more sensitive to dry soil than other types of corn.
SUGARY ENHANCED Also listed as se or se+, these cultivars have very tender kernels and convert sugar to starch more slowly than Normal Sugary types but faster than Super Sweets. They’re also more tolerant of cold and more vigorous than Super Sweets but less vigorous than Normal Sugary types. They also won’t cross with nearby corn plants, as Super Sweets do, and thus can be grown next to other corn crops.
Q I live in Minnesota. What kind of sweet corn is best up here? Our summers are pretty short!
A Since the number of frost-free days in the average growing season in Minnesota ranges from 138 to 98 or fewer, early maturing cultivars, which ripen in 55 to 70 days, are best. Midseason cultivars take 71 to 85 days to ripen, while late cultivars take 86 days or more. For an extra-early start in cool climates, prewarm the soil by covering it with black or clear plastic for 2 weeks before planting. Also, try pregerminating corn or starting seedlings indoors in individual peat or newspaper pots, since seedlings don’t transplant well.
Q I live in southern Alabama, and my sweet corn just fries in the summer. Is there anything I can do?
A In areas with superhot summers, plan on two seasons of sweet corn. Sow successive crops every 2 weeks in spring for early summer harvest, but stop sowing about 2½ months before searing summer heat is upon you. Start sowing again in late summer.
Q I got spotty germination from my corn last year. What can I do to get better results?
A Corn is a warm-weather crop, and seeds need warm soil to germinate. Use these tips to get your corn up and growing:
SOW SEED AFTER ALL DANGER OF FROST has passed, beginning about 2 weeks after the last spring frost date.
DON’T SOW UNTIL THE SOIL HAS WARMED to at least 60°F/15.5°C. (Use a soil thermometer to be sure.) Seeds are more likely to be attacked by fungus diseases and insects when they’re sown in cool soil.
SOAK SEEDS IN COMPOST TEA for 20 minutes before planting.
FOR EARLY PLANTINGS, prewarm the soil by covering it with black or clear plastic for 2 weeks.
SOME LAWN-GRASS PESTS also attack corn plants, so try to avoid planting corn where grass was grown the previous year. An application of parasitic nematodes to the planting area also helps eliminate some pests.
SET SEEDS 1"-2"/2.5–5 CM DEEP and about 7"/17.8 cm apart. Since germination averages about 75 percent, by the time seedlings are up they will be spaced at about 12"/30.5 cm apart, which is the correct spacing. If you have better-than average germination, thin plants to 12"/30 cm apart when they are 3"–4"/7.6–10.2 cm tall.
COVER NEW PLANTINGS OF CORN with floating row covers. Birds love to pull up and eat the seeds and baby seedlings, and row covers keeps them, along with various insect pests, at bay. Be sure to cover plants loosely, since they grow quickly.
Q I’ve tried to grow Super Sweet corn before, but the ears tasted awful! What happened?
A Super Sweet cultivars must be isolated from other types of corn or they will cross-pollinate, and the kernels will be stringy and starchy. Grow Super Sweets on a different schedule or plant them at least 250'/76 m away from other corn.
SEE ALSO: For more about Super Sweet corn, page 248.
Q When my corn ripened last year, there was too much, and I couldn’t eat it all before it turned starchy. How can I spread out the harvest?
A Since corn ripens and then matures past its prime quickly, make a plan to spread out the harvest by staggering planting dates — sow a new batch of corn every week or two.
You can also grow cultivars that mature at different times. For example, plant ‘Earlivee’, which matures in 60 days, at the same time you plant cultivars like ‘Seneca Horizon’ (70 to 80 days) or ‘Supersweet Jubilee’ (85 days) and ‘Silver Queen’ (88 days) or ‘Bodacious’ (80 to 90 days). If your planting season is long enough, plant a second crop of ‘Earlivee’ one month after the first planting to spread out the harvest even farther.
Q I planted a big row of corn and the plants grew beautifully, but the ears had only a few kernels! What happened?
A Corn is wind-pollinated, and unless you’re planting a field full of it, you need to think about how the pollen is going to get from the tassels (the male flowers on the tops of the plants) to the silks (the tips of the female flowers, which produce the kernels and emerge from the cobs). Plant a single row of corn, and the pollen simply blows away. If you are growing a small number of plants — from 15 or 20 plants up to a few rows in each succession planting — arrange them in a block that’s at least 4'/1.2 m on a side, to ensure that wind can carry pollen from plant to plant.
Q The farmers in our area don’t water their corn. Do I need to water mine?
A Sweet corn needs evenly moist soil for best growth, so make sure plants get about 1"/2.5 cm of water a week from rain or watering — more if the weather is hot. It’s especially important to water plants from the time they begin to produce tassels right through to when the ears are ready to harvest. Use soaker hoses or flood the rows, because spraying the plants with a hose or sprinkler can wash away the pollen. Also, to hold in moisture and reduce competition from weeds, mulch plants with grass clippings or other organic material once the soil has warmed up.
Q I’ve worked plenty of compost into my soil. Is that enough for sweet corn?
A Sweet-corn plants are heavy feeders, and they appreciate a bit of a boost about a month after planting and again when the tassels form. Sidedress them with compost or a balanced fertilizer. Some gardeners add a third feeding in between, roughly a month after the first, when plants are about 1½'/.45 m tall.
Q My corn plants have roots around the bottom of the stalks that are up out of the ground. Should I cut them off?
A No, leave them be. Corn plants continue to produce new roots, called nodal roots, above the first roots that emerge, and these help stabilize the plants as they grow taller. When spreading fertilizer or hoeing around corn, be careful not to damage the plants’ shallow roots, which can extend 1'/.3 m from the base of the stalk. If plants begin to lean over, it helps to hoe soil up around the base, covering these roots, to give them more support.
Q My grandfather always cut the suckers out of his sweet corn plants. Do I need to do that?
A Old-time gardeners typically removed the side shoots, or suckers, but recent studies have revealed that it’s best to leave them on the plant.
Q How can I tell if the corn is ready to pick?
A Look closely at the silks. If they’ve turned brown but are still damp when you touch them, the ears are probably ready for harvest. Ripe ears also should have full-size kernels at the top, where the silks emerge. To make sure, try the thumbnail test by pressing your thumbnail into a kernel. If milky liquid spurts out, the ear is ready for picking. Clear liquid indicates the ear isn’t quite ripe, while no liquid indicates it’s past its prime.
Q What’s the best way to pick corn?
A Pull ears off the plant with a downward twisting motion. Old-time gardeners will tell you to have the water boiling before you pick, since the sugars in corn kernels quickly turn to starch. Or, if you can’t cook immediately, cool the ears quickly by plunging them into cold water and then refrigerate them. While sugars do convert more slowly in sugar-enhanced and supersweet corn, which can be kept in the refrigerator for a couple of days after harvest, corn is still at its best when eaten right out of the garden.
Q Half the ears of corn I’ve picked this year have caterpillars chewing into the kernels on the tips of the ears. Is there any way to keep them out?
A Corn earworms are the culprit; these pests also chew tomato fruits from the blossom end, eat into bean pods, and nibble lettuce. The best way to fight ear-worms is to take a multifaceted approach:
ATTRACT BENEFICIAL INSECTS to your yard by planting annuals and perennials near your vegetable gardens. Annuals such as alyssum (Lobularia maritima) and cosmos (Cosmos spp.), as well as perennials such as yarrow (Achillea spp.) and those in the aster family such as coneflowers (Echinacea spp. and Rudbeckia spp.) all attract beneficials.
PLANT RESISTANT CORN. Cultivars that have tightly wrapped husks are more difficult for earworms to enter.
AFTER THE SILKS EMERGE, use a rubber band to hold the husks tightly together and prevent the earworms from entering.
ONCE THE SILKS HAVE BEGUN TO TURN BROWN, place 5 drops of vegetable oil (corn oil works fine) at the base of the silks, next to the husks. The oil smothers the earworms as they climb inside the husks. Wait until the silks are fully extended and begin to turn brown; otherwise, the oil affects pollination of the ears.
USE SPRAYS — BT OR SPINOSAD — AS A LAST RESORT. You may have to spray several times, and worms that have already crawled into the ears won’t be affected.
Cover cucumber seedbeds with floating row covers to protect plants from insect pests such as cucumber beetles.
The soil should be evenly moist but not wet (a soaker hose along the row is ideal); otherwise, the fruit can taste bitter.
Plant cucumber cultivars that feature built-in disease resistance, then follow spacing guidelines to reduce disease problems.
Q What’s the difference between slicing cucumbers and pickling types?
A Pickling cucumbers generally are fast-growing, short-season cucumbers that produce all or most of their fruit within a week or so, which is most convenient for pickling and canning. Picklers have thin, paler green skin than slicing cucumbers. Slicers, which produce dark green-skinned fruit, begin bearing about a week after pickling cucumbers and continue to produce for 4 to 6 weeks.
Q Can I still get a big cucumber yield even from a small-space garden?
A You probably can, especially if you trellis your cucumbers and choose the right type to grow. Typically, cucumbers bear separate male and female flowers and require bees or other pollinators to carry pollen from one to the other to set fruit. In recent years, though, plant breeders have introduced new types of cucumbers that bear especially heavily because they don’t produce fruit by old-fashioned cross-pollination. Here are the types of cucumbers you’ll encounter.
MONOECIOUS CUCUMBERS. These cucumbers bear both male and female flowers on the same vine. You can grow a single plant of a monoecious cultivar and still get fruit. Like most squash-family crops, plants bear male flowers first before producing females.
GYNOECIOUS CUCUMBERS. These extra-heavy producers bear only female flowers. The flowers require pollination to produce fruit, so you need to grow at least one monoecious cultivar to provide the pollen. Seeds for gynoecious cucumbers usually are packaged with a few seeds of a monoecious cultivar, which are either dyed a different color or packaged in a separate envelope. You need to plant at least one of these seeds in order for gynoecious cultivars to produce fruit.
PARTHENOCARPIC CUCUMBERS. These set seedless fruit without pollination. You can plant a single parthenocarpic cucumber plant, and you’ll still get fruit. Be aware, though, that not all parthenocarpic cucumbers are suitable for outdoor culture: Many cultivars were developed for growing in greenhouses, where there are no bees or other pollinators. Look for a parthenocarpic cultivar designated for outdoor as well as indoor use, since greenhouse-only types may produce deformed fruit if the flowers do get pollinated.
Watch for these abbreviations in catalogs to know which type of cucumber you’re buying.
| SYMBOL | STANDS FOR |
| MO | Monoecious |
| GY | Gynoecious |
| PAT | Parthenocarpic |
Q I usually prefer heritage cultivars. Why should I bother with newfangled gynoecious or parthenocarpic cucumbers?
A A wide range of diseases attack cucumbers, and many of the newer hybrids feature resistance to many of them. By planting cultivars that resist anthracnose, bacterial wilt, cucumber mosaic virus, downy mildew, powdery mildew, and other diseases, you can increase yields and reduce problems by little more than selecting the right seed. For example, if cucumber beetles have ruined your crops in the past, you can plant a parthenocarpic cultivar. (‘Diva’ is both gynoecious and parthenocarpic.)
Q How do I tell the difference between male and female cucumber flowers?
A The secret is to look at the base of the flower, behind the petals. Female flowers have a tiny cucumber that is already formed; male flowers do not. Keep in mind that the fruits on the female flowers don’t automatically grow. In monoecious and gynoecious cucumbers, they need to be pollinated to enlarge.
Female flower
Male flower
Q I have a small garden in downtown Louisville, Kentucky. Should I grow bush-type cucumbers?
A Bush cucumbers, which are actually compact vines, are a perfect choice for small gardens, since they take up less space than rambunctious vining types. They’re also easier to care for, and it’s easier to pick the fruit. If you have enough space for even a single section of trellis, though, a couple of plants of a vining cultivar may be in order. Vining types bear slightly later than bush types and produce much more heavily, although they do need considerably more space. Big garden or small, locate trellises for vining cucumbers on the north side of your garden or in rows that run east to west, so they don’t shade the rest of your crops.
Q I can’t wait for the first garden-grown cucumbers every year. How early can I plant them in spring?
A Cucumbers originated in the tropics, and it doesn’t pay to rush them into the garden, because they simply can’t take cold weather. Wait until at least 2 weeks after the last spring frost date to sow seeds or move transplants to the garden. Cucumbers do appreciate prewarmed soil, so mulch with clear or black plastic for 2 weeks before planting. Or, plant in hills of soil or raised beds; both tend to be warmer than ground-level planting sites.
A Yes, but since the seedlings don’t transplant well, take steps to ease their transition into the garden. Sow seed no more than 3 weeks before your projected transplant date, so the seedlings don’t get too large to transplant well. Sowing in individual peat pots or newspaper pots is best. Be sure to harden off seedlings before moving them to the garden. Because of transplant stress, cucumbers that were transplanted take as many as 10 days longer than direct-sown ones to produce their first fruit.
Q What’s the best approach for sowing cucumber seeds right into the garden?
A Cucumbers grow just fine in ordinary, well-prepared garden soil. Plant cucumber seeds ½"/1.3 cm deep and 2"/5 cm apart. Cover newly planted beds with floating row covers to protect seedlings from pests like cucumber beetles, which transmit bacterial wilt, a disease that kills plants. Thin seedlings of vining cucumbers to 8"–10"/20.3–25.4 cm apart once they have about three leaves. Thin bush types to 6"–10"/15.2–25.4 cm. Space rows 4'–5'/1.2–1.5 m apart, since good air circulation helps prevent diseases.
When direct-seeding cucumbers, if the soil is still a bit on the cool side — below 60°F/15.5°C — cover the newly sown bed with clear plastic for up to 5 days to help warm up the soil. Remove the plastic as soon as seedlings appear.
In midsummer, however, when you sow a second crop, the soil may be too hot for good cucumber seed germination. To get seeds off to a good start, soak them in water for 24 hours before sowing. Water once the seeds are in place, then shade the site with boards propped up on bricks or with burlap to keep the soil cool and moist until seedlings appear.
Q Can I grow more than one batch of cucumbers a summer?
A Cucumbers mature relatively quickly — they’re ready for harvest in 50 to 65 days, depending on the cultivar — and in most parts of the country, there’s enough time for a couple of crops of cucumbers. For the biggest harvest, plan on growing successive crops throughout the summer. Sow seed every 2 or 3 weeks, up to 3 months before the last frost date. Although they may not do well in searing summer weather, in the South and Southwest, it’s warm enough to grow cucumbers as a fall crop. In south Florida and southern California, it’s warm enough to grow them as a winter crop as well.
Q I’m growing two rows of gynoecious cucumbers. Do I need only one monoecious plant to get fruit?
A That depends on how many plants you have. To ensure adequate pollination and plenty of fruit, plant one monoecious cultivar for every seven or eight gynoecious plants. Be sure to mark the locations of the monoecious seeds, so you don’t thin them out by mistake.
SEE ALSO: For more about monoecious and gynoecious cucumbers, pages 258–259.
Q Do I have to grow my cucumbers in a straight line along a trellis? What are the different ways to arrange them?
A Arranging cucumbers in rows along a trellis is one popular way to grow them. Another option is to grow cucumbers in 2'–3'/.6–.9 m-wide hills, with three plants per hill (start with seven or eight seeds and thin to the healthiest seedlings). Install a teepee or stakes for the plants to climb, or if you’d like something more ornamental, consider an obelisk or arbor. Yet another option is to fasten together two pieces of lattice to make an A-frame tent, then train cucumbers on both sides. In summer use the space under the tent to grow baby greens, which will appreciate the shady spot that’s created. In hot climates, a low tent or arching length of wire fencing is a good choice, since it keeps the vines close to the ground and protected from drying winds and hot sun.
A-frame trellis for cucumbers
Q Do cucumbers need fertilizing?
A If you amend the soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure at planting time, cucumbers need fertilizing only once: Sidedress with a balanced organic fertilizer or another dose of compost when they are about a month old. Mulch the plants to preserve soil moisture.
Q I live in Texas, and I could water all day, but the soil still wouldn’t be cool and evenly moist the way cucumbers like it. Any other options?
A In areas with searingly hot summers, you may want to grow cucumbers from spring to early summer, take a break during midsummer, and begin planting them again in late summer for fall harvest. Also, consider a trellising structure that keeps plants closer to the ground, because it helps them cope with the hot, dry weather. A low, wire, arch support is a good choice, because it helps protect plants from drying winds and also shades and cools the soil a bit.
Q How do I know when it’s time to pick?
A One clue to watch for is when the flower drops off the end of the fruit. You can harvest cucumbers any time after that. Smaller is better when it comes to harvesting, since younger fruit is higher in quality. Even though they can grow quite a bit larger, slicing cucumbers are at peak quality when they are 6"–8"/15.2–20.3 cm long, European types when they are about 10"/25.4 cm, and pickling types when they are 2"–4"/5–10.2 cm. If you are growing a cultivar that has spines on the fruit, wait until the dimples around the spines fill out and disappear.
Q I live in upstate New York, and we have a short growing season. Is there any way to make sure all my cucumbers ripen before frost?
A About 4 weeks before the fall frost date, start picking off all the female flowers. This stops the plants from forming new fruit and directs the plant’s energy to ripening the fruits that have already formed.
Q My plants have all male flowers, but no female ones! What do I do?
A Be patient! Like all squashes, pumpkins, and melons, cucumbers produce male flowers first (at least, the monoecious types do), then begin bearing females. You should see female flowers in a few days.
SEE ALSO: For an illustration of male and female flowers, page 260.
Q My cucumbers are really odd looking! They aren’t fat all the way down. What causes that?
A Two things can lead to misshapen cucumbers. The first is moisture stress. The soil should be evenly moist but not wet. For best results water deeply when the top few inches of soil are dry. Consider delivering water via drip irrigation or soaker hoses, because keeping the soil dry helps prevent disease. Uneven pollination can also cause misshapen fruit. Try hand-pollinating — taking a male flower and manually transferring pollen to female flowers — to help new fruits to fill out completely.
SEE ALSO: For an illustration of male and female flowers, page 260.
Q Help! My plants are producing new cucumber fruits, but they shrivel up instead of growing. Otherwise the plants look healthy and perfect.
A If a plant has one big fruit on it that’s producing seeds, the rest of the cucumbers won’t form. Search the plant carefully for a full-size cucumber that you may have missed. If you don’t find a full-size cucumber, pollination may be the problem. Check to see if you planted a gynoecious cultivar, which produces all female flowers but no male ones, and thus no pollen and no fruit. Try hand-pollinating by picking a male flower and carrying the pollen to a female flower yourself.
Q My cucumbers are producing, but the fruit is so bitter I can’t eat it. Did I plant the wrong kind?
A Cucumbers need warm weather and even moisture to produce the best fruit, and adverse conditions can easily lead to bitter-tasting fruit. Beginning when fruit starts to form, make sure the soil stays evenly moist but never sopping wet; plants don’t appreciate wet feet. Instead of watering every day, water deeply a couple of times a week to encourage deep roots. Overripe fruit is bitter; discard fruits that have a touch of orange or yellow next to the flower. Cool temperatures also can cause fruits to be bitter. Make a note of the name of the plant that produced bitter cucumbers, then try a different cultivar for the next crop.
TIPS FOR SUCCESS
Don’t rush to transplant eggplants into the garden. Wait until soil and air temperatures are consistently in the 70s/21-26°C.
Provide stress-free conditions: Make sure the soil is evenly moist, and control insect infestations and diseases promptly.
Harvest eggplants when they are large enough to use but before the skin loses its glossy texture.
Q I love eggplant, but I’ve never had any luck with it in the garden. What do they need to grow well?
A Eggplants love summertime heat and humidity, and if you try to get them out into the garden too early in the season, they’ll just sit and suffer. Exposure to cool temperatures can also permanently stunt eggplants. To get your eggplants excited about growing, give them the following:
GOOD SOIL. They like soil that’s rich in organic matter, well drained, and warm. Prewarm the soil by covering it with black or clear plastic a couple of weeks before transplanting.
A HEAD START. Start seedlings indoors or purchase transplants at the garden center.
LATE TRANSPLANTING. Work compost into the soil before planting, and don’t transplant seedlings to the garden until the soil and air temperatures both reach 70°F/21°C.
EXTRA COVER. Protect plants with floating row covers to shield them from cool temperatures and to keep pests such as flea beetles at bay.
PAMPERING. Eggplants are the drama queens of the vegetable garden. They go into shock if the weather is a little too cool, if they don’t get enough water, or if they are exposed to any other factors that cause stress.
Q How early should I start eggplants indoors?
A Sow seeds 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost date. To get them up and growing quickly, set the pots on a heat mat or other source of bottom heat that will maintain the soil at 85°F/29.5°C. Once the seedlings are up, keep them in a spot that is 70-80°F/21-26.6°C during the day and only slightly cooler at night. Begin to harden off seedlings a week before transplanting, and don’t plan on moving eggplants to the garden until 2 to 3 weeks after that last spring frost date (check the soil temperature before moving them).
Q What spacing do they need?
A Set eggplant transplants 1½'–2'/.45–.6 m apart in rows spaced 2'/.6 m apart. Use hot caps or row covers to keep the seedlings toasty warm if conditions are still cool.
Q I live in Vermont. Can I grow eggplants?
A The best areas for growing eggplants are from USDA Zone 5 south, since most cultivars take 100 to 150 days to produce fruit and require warm weather to do so. They’re best in areas with long, hot summers and mild falls. In USDA Zones 3 and 4, they need an extralong head start in spring along with extra protection from cool temperatures, such as a plastic-covered tunnel or other shelter, such as that shown on page 285. (The plants stop growing altogether if exposed to temperatures below 50°F/10°C for any length of time.) Gardeners in areas with short growing seasons should look for cultivars that mature in 60 to 70 days from transplanting.
Q Do eggplants need much fertilizer?
A Eggplants are like most other vegetables: They appreciate soil that contains a good dose of organic matter, but they don’t need anything more than the standard soil preparation. Since they also need warm, well-drained soil, a spot in a raised bed is perfect for eggplants. Feed plants monthly for best production.
Q Do I have to worry about bees not being able to find my eggplant flowers for pollination?
A The flowers pollinate themselves and don’t need the help of bees or other insects. That means you can cover them with row covers from planting until harvest if you like. If you garden in the North, keep in mind that eggplants need warm nights for pollination to succeed. If overnight temperatures dip below about 60°F/15.5°C, flowers may just drop off without being pollinated. To prevent this, keep an eye on predicted overnight lows, and cover your plants overnight with a blanket or plastic row cover when cool nights are in the forecast. Be sure to uncover them so that the hot summer sun won’t cook them during the day.
Q Do I need to stake my plants?
A Eggplants can be grown without staking, but they may benefit from a stake or even a lightweight tomato cage. Staking is especially important when plants are laden with fruit.
Staking eggplant
Q How do I tell when the fruit is ready to pick?
A Eggplants are at their best when they’re still small — at about half their potential full size. The skin should turn from glossy to slightly dull. Press the skin with a fingernail to make an indentation. If it doesn’t spring back, the fruit is ready to cut off (use a knife or garden shears) and enjoy. Set eggplants in a cool spot (do not refrigerate them) as soon after harvest as possible.
Q Help! I’ve got nearly ripe eggplants in the garden, but it’s going to get chilly overnight! I don’t want the fruits to be ruined. What should I do?
A Cover the plants with several layers of floating row covers, sheets, or lightweight blankets. Install stakes, cages, or other supports first to support the extra covering and prevent it from smashing the plants.