Central Pacific Coast
Mazatlán
Mexcaltitán
San Blas
Tepic
Chacala
San Francisco
Sayulita
Punta de Mita & Riviera Nayarit
Puerto Vallarta
Costalegre Beaches
Bahía de Navidad
Manzanillo
Michoacán Coast
Lázaro Cárdenas
Troncones
Ixtapa
Zihuatanejo
Barra de Potosí
Soledad de Maciel
Pie de la Cuesta
Acapulco
Costa Chica
Central Pacific Coast
Why Go?
Gigantic aquamarine waves provide the backdrop and pulsating rhythm to any visit to Mexico’s central Pacific coast, a land of stunning beaches and giant sunsets. You can indulge in all the tropical clichés here: eating sublime seafood under simple palm-frond roofs, drinking chilled coconut water while lounging in a hammock, and enjoying poolside cocktails at an upmarket resort. The nightlife is great and there’s a beach for everyone, whether you prefer yours backed by high-rise hotels or tumbledown cabins.
There’s even more going on in the ocean, where you can surf world-class breaks and spot humpback whales breaching on the horizon, battalions of mother turtles arriving to lay their eggs, pelicans flying in formation or pods of dolphins rising from the waves.
Whether your thing is a cushy week of beachside pampering or a budget quest for the perfect wave, the Pacific coast has it covered.
When to Go
- Feb Perfect beach weather. Carnaval reigns in Mazatlán.
- Jun & Jul Surf’s up and prices are down at Pacific Mexico’s prime surfing destinations.
- Nov & Dec Puerto Vallarta celebrates various festivals. December is whale-watching season.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Central Pacific Coast Highlights
1 Mazatlán Hanging out in the beautifully restored downtown.
2 Troncones Dreaming of making a life in this beach town before heading out for a day of surfing.
3 Barra de Navidad Biking, boating and dining on fresh seafood in this laid-back mini-resort.
4 San Francisco Soaking up the party vibe along the sands and streets.
5 Chacala Whale-watching and swimming in the calm waters of this tiny fishing village.
6 Puerto Vallarta Cherishing the diverse flavors of the Zona Romántica and visiting remote beaches.
7 Zihuatanejo Savoring the culinary scene and atmospheric bars.
8 Playa Ventura Chilling out on the impossibly perfect beach.
9 Michoacán Coast Exploring surf beaches and traditional settlements.
a Pie de la Cuesta Bird-watching and marveling at the bravado of cliff divers in neighboring Acapulco.
Mazatlán
%669 / Pop 502,547
Thanks to 20km of sandy beaches, Mazatlán became one of Mexico’s most alluring and inviting beach destinations in the mid-20th century, before it lurched past its prime into a mid-market, package-tourist category. Recently, however, Mazatlán’s historic core – referred to as ‘tropical neoclassical’ – has been restored and peopled by the creative class. The result is a coastal city with plenty of allure. A boldly engineered new highway from the interior means the beaches are now more accessible to Mexicans too, and the good-time vibes have returned.
To take the pulse of Mazatlán, don’t linger too long in the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone), the city’s traditional tourist playground. Instead head straight for the refurbished old town and its glorious malecón (beach promenade), where you can view magic sunsets from bars and restaurants.
1Sights
1Old Mazatlán
oOld MazatlánAREA
Mazatlán’s restored old town is a picturesque compendium of noble 19th-century buildings and pretty plazas. It’s set back from Playa Olas Altas, a small cove beach where the waterfront road – with its old-fashioned bars and hotels – strongly evokes the 1950s. Though overlooked by the ugly radio masts of Cerro de la Nevería, this old quarter is delightful, with student life and numerous art galleries, cafes, restaurants and bars.
oPlaza MachadoSQUARE
(map Google map cnr Av Carnaval & Constitución; 
gSábalo-Centro)
Sleepy during the day, this gorgeous tree-lined plaza comes alive in the evening, when market stalls pop up, couples stroll hand-in-hand and its numerous terrace restaurants are serenaded by musicians. It’s a touristy but very romantic scene.
Teatro Ángela PeraltaTHEATER
(map Google map %669-982-44-46; ext 103; www.culturamazatlan.com/tap; Av Carnaval 47; self-guided visit M$20; 
h9am-2pm & 4-6pm; gSábalo-Centro)
Named after a 19th-century soprano and constructed between 1869 and 1874, this 1366-seat theater just off Plaza Machado was a thriving center of local cultural life for nearly a century. Having fallen into decay, it was slated for demolition by the city government before dedicated local citizens came to its rescue in the late 1980s. The three-level interior has been restored to its former splendor; all kinds of cultural events are again staged here, including the annual Festival Cultural Mazatlán.
El FaroLIGHTHOUSE
(map gPlaya Sur) 
F
At the Mazatlán peninsula’s southern end, a prominent rocky outcrop is the base for this lighthouse, which is 135m above sea level and is claimed, inaccurately, to be the second-highest in the world. You can climb up here (avoid the heat of the day) for a spectacular view of the city and coast.
CatedralCATHEDRAL
(map Google map cnr Juárez & Calle 21 de Marzo; h6:30am-7:30pm; gSábalo-Centro)
At the center of the old town is this striking 19th-century cathedral with high yellow twin towers. The dramatic interior has gilt ceiling roses supporting chandeliers and blocks of stone in alternating colors. It’s located on the Plaza Principal, which attracts legions of pigeon feeders and local families who patronize businesses on the clogged arteries that surround it.
ClavadistasVIEWPOINT
(map Google map Paseo Olas Altas)
Although not as famous, nor as spectacular, as Acapulco’s cliff divers, local clavadistas cast their bodies from a couple of platforms into the treacherous ocean swells for your enjoyment. Tip accordingly. They usually perform around lunchtime and in the late afternoon, but they won’t risk their necks until a crowd has assembled.
Museo de ArteMUSEUM
(map Google map %669-985-35-02; www.facebook.com/museodeartedemazatlan; cnr Sixto Osuna & Carranza; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; gSábalo-Centro) F
This is a small museum in a sprawling colonial courtyard complex, which makes a convincing case for the vitality and innovation of contemporary Mexican art with changing exhibitions of digital works, sculptures, prints and paintings.
Museo Arqueológico de MazatlánMUSEUM
(map Google map INAH; %669-981-14-55; www.inah.gob.mx/es/red-de-museos/210-museo-arqueologico-de-mazatlan; Sixto Osuna 76; adult/child under 12yr M$40/free, Sun free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
The small but absorbing Museo Arqueológico displays several hundred pre-Hispanic archaeological finds accompanied by fascinating wall texts in Spanish and English.
oIsla de la PiedraISLAND
(map boat fare M$30; gPlaya Sur)
A popular half-day escape from the city, this island is just southeast of Old Mazatlán and boasts a beautiful, long sandy beach bordered by coconut groves. Surfers come for the waves, and its simple palapa (thatched-roof) restaurants draw Mexican families; outside weekends and high season, you might have it to yourself. Though there are tours, it’s easy to get here by water taxi – boats depart frequently (6am to 6pm) from the Playa Sur embarcadero (dock).
‘Playa Sur’ buses leave for the embarcadero from the corner of Serdán and Escobedo, two blocks southeast of Plaza Principal in Old Mazatlán.
1Zona Dorada
OnilikanDISTILLERY
(map Google map %669-668-23-70; www.onilikan.com; Av Playa Gaviotas 505; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; 
p; gSábalo-Centro) F
This tiny distillery brews up liquors from mango, agave and coffee, among other things. It’s in the heart of the Zona Dorada, and you can just drop in for a friendly short explanation and free tasting.
Acuario MazatlánAQUARIUM
(map Google map %669-981-78-15; www.acuariomazatlan.com; Av de los Deportes 111; adult/child 3-11yr M$115/85; h9:30am-5pm; p; gSábalo-Centro)
One of Mexico’s largest aquariums has tanks with hundreds of species of fresh- and saltwater fish, a display of skeletons, and birds and frogs in the garden. Its sea lion shows and much-hyped shark-riding experience are the kinds of interaction with marine creatures that are a big concern to animal welfare groups, who say that contact of this sort is harmful to the creatures and should be avoided.
Beaches
With over 20km of beaches, it’s easy to find a suitable stretch of sand. The following beaches are listed in geographic order, from south to north.
Crescent-shaped Playa Olas Altas (map Google map gSábalo-Centro) is where tourism first flourished in the 1950s. It’s within walking distance if you’re staying in Old Mazatlán.
Backed by a promenade popular with joggers and strollers, the golden sands of Playa Norte (map Google map gSábalo-Centro) begin just north of Old Mazatlán. The beach arcs toward Punta Camarón, a rocky point dominated by the conspicuous, castle-like Fiesta Land nightclub complex.
The most luxurious hotels face pretty Playa Las Gaviotas (map Google map gSábalo-Centro) and Playa Sábalo (map Google map gSábalo-Centro), the latter extending north of the Zona Dorada. Sheltered by picturesque islands, the waters here are generally calm and ideal for swimming and water sports.
Further north, past Marina El Cid and the ever-evolving Marina Mazatlán, are Playa Bruja (gCerritos-Juárez) – a once-serene beach that has seen a flood of high-rise development in recent years – and Playa Cerritos (gCerritos-Juárez). Both have a smattering of seafood restaurants and decent surf. To reach these northern beaches, catch a ‘Cerritos–Juárez’ bus along Avenida Camarón Sábalo in the Zona Dorada.
Islands
Resembling breaching whales, the three photogenic rocks jutting from the sea offshore from the Zona Dorada offer secluded beaches and clear waters ideal for snorkeling, plus great multitudes of seals and marine birds. On the left is Isla de Chivos (Goat Island); Isla de Pájaros (Bird Island) is on the right. Most visited is the one in the middle, Isla de Venados (Deer Island). The islands are part of a wildlife refuge designated to help protect the local birds and marine fauna. Any boat operator can take you out there; organized tours are also available.
2Activities
Mazatlán boasts some noteworthy surfing sites, including Playa Bruja. There are several spots to rent boards and a handful of surf schools. Other water-sports equipment can be hired from the beaches of most large beachfront hotels.
Estrella del Mar Golf ClubGOLF
(map Google map %800-727-46-53; www.estrelladelmar.com; Camino Isla de la Piedra 10; green fees Nov-Apr US$120, May-Oct US$75)
Mazatlán’s finest golf course is just south of the airport by the ocean.
Jah Surf SchoolSURFING
(map %cell 669-1494699; http://jahsurfschool.com; class US$50, board rental per hour/day US$10/25; 
c)
Friendly, reader-recommended instructor who is happy to take on whole families. Also rents out boards and equipment.
Aqua Sports CenterWATER SPORTS
(map Google map %669-913-04-51; www.aquasportscenter.com; Av Camarón Sábalo s/n, Hotel El Cid Castilla; 1-tank dive US$100, snorkeling tour US$40, kayak rental US$30; h9:30am-5pm; gSábalo-Centro)
The place to go for all sorts of water-sports activities, including scuba diving, snorkeling rentals, jet skiing, banana-boat rides (for up to five passengers), parasailing, sailboat rentals and kayak rentals.
Sportfishing
Handily located at the confluence of the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean, Mazatlán is world famous for sportfishing – especially for marlin, swordfish, sailfish, tuna and dorado (mahimahi). It can be an expensive activity (US$475 to US$750 per boat per day, for boats ranging in size from 8m to 11m with four to 10 people fishing); fishing from a 7m super panga (fiberglass skiff) is less expensive (around US$325 per day with up to four people fishing). A fishing license costs US$10 per person, and is usually organized by the operator.
The spiffiest boats leave from the marinas north of town; for lower prices, try the operators near El Faro or negotiate directly with one of the independent fishers offering half-day panga trips along Paseo Claussen near Playa Norte. Many operators also offer simple bottom-fishing excursions.
Flota SábaloFISHING
(map %669-981-27-61; www.facebook.com/manuel.valdessalgado; Calz Camarena s/n; half-day fishing trips from M$3000; h6am-6pm; gPlaya Sur)
This friendly setup is run by two brothers, who offer two different boats – one an old faithful, the other sleeker and more modern – for very affordable fishing or other boating excursions. Lots of fun.
Bibi FleetFISHING
(map %669-913-10-60; www.bibifleet.com; Marina Mazatlán, shop 8, btwn docks 7 & 8; charters per day US$300-600; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; gSábalo-Centro)
Helpful and professional setup with three different boat options. Excursions last up to eight hours and can include both fishing and snorkeling activities.
Aries FleetFISHING
(map %669-916-34-68; www.elcidmarinas.com; Av Camarón Sábalo s/n, Marina el Cid; fishing tour per day from US$325, Deer Island tour adult/child US$58/38; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Offers fishing tours and supports some catch-and-release practices. Also runs an activities-packed excursion to Deer Island, which includes snorkeling, kayaking, open bar and lunch.
WORTH A TRIP
SINALOA’S COLONIAL GEMS
Several small, picturesque colonial towns in the Sierra Madre foothills make pleasant day trips from Mazatlán.
Concordia, founded in 1565, has an 18th-century church with a baroque facade and elaborately decorated columns. The village is known for manufacturing high-quality pottery and hand-carved furniture. It’s about a 45-minute drive east of Mazatlán; head southeast on Hwy 15 for 20km to Villa Unión, turn inland on Hwy 40 (the highway to Durango) and go another 20km.
Copala, 40km past Concordia on Hwy 40, was one of Mexico’s first mining towns. It still has its colonial church (1748), period houses and cobblestone streets. It’s a one-hour drive from Mazatlán.
El Rosario, 76km southeast of Mazatlán on Hwy 15, is another colonial mining town. Founded in 1655, its most famous feature is the towering gold-leaf altar in its church, the Nuestra Señora del Rosario. You can also visit the home of beloved singer Lola Beltrán, whose long recording career made ranchera (Mexico’s urban ‘country music’) popular in the mid-20th century.
Cosalá, in the mountains north of Mazatlán, is a beautiful colonial mining village that dates from 1550. It has an 18th-century church, a mining museum in a colonial mansion on the plaza, and the lovely hacienda-style Hotel Quinta Minera (%696-965-02-22; www.hotelquintaminera.com; Hidalgo 92, Cosalá; d/q M$1200/1420; p
n
a
W
s). To get here, go north on Hwy 15 for 113km to the turnoff (opposite the turnoff for La Cruz de Alota on the coast) and then climb 45km into the mountains.
Buses to Cosalá, Concordia and El Rosario depart from a small station behind Mazatlán’s main bus terminal.
TTours
oOnca ExplorationsECOTOUR
(map %669-913-40-50; www.oncaexplorations.com; Av Camarón Sábalo 2100; whale-watching or wild dolphin tours adult/child US$95/65, birding US$85/65; h9am-5pm; gSábalo-Centro) 
S
Wildlife observation and conservation are the focus of these ecotours, led by marine ecologist Oscar Guzón. Most popular are his ‘Humpback Whale Research Adventure’ (8am and 1pm December to April) and ‘Wild Dolphin Adventure’ (8am year-round) tours, which offer excellent opportunities to observe marine mammals up close.
Other options include an excursion to Las Labradas beachside petroglyph site, and custom bird-watching tours to Santa María Bay, Isla Isabel National Park and the Chara Pinta Tufted Jay Preserve.
King DavidBOATING
(map Google map %669-914-14-44; www.kingdavid.com.mx; Av Camarón Sábalo 333; tour adult/child US$45/30; hoffice 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; gSábalo-Centro)
Offers a variety of boat tours, including a ‘Jungle and Beach’ tour into the mangrove-fringed waterways of the Isla de la Piedra wildlife refuge. You get it cheaper by booking at its office instead of via hotels. Its ‘Isla de la Piedra’ tour is more cheaply (and better) done by yourself.
Vista ToursTOURS
(map Google map %669-986-86-10; www.vistatours.com.mx; Av Camarón Sábalo 51; tours per person M$30-129; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; gSábalo-Centro)
A reliable group that offers a variety of tours in and around Mazatlán, including city tours (US$30), a colonial tour (US$50) to the foothill towns of Concordia and Copala, a tequila-factory tour (US$45) and all-day jaunts to Mexcaltitán (US$129).
zFestivals & Events
CarnavalCARNIVAL
(www.carnavalmazatlan.net; hFeb)
Mazatlán has Mexico’s most flamboyant Carnaval celebrations. For the week leading up to Ash Wednesday, the town goes on a nonstop partying spree. Reserve hotels in advance.
Festival Cultural MazatlánPERFORMING ARTS
(www.culturamazatlan.com; hOct-Dec)
If you love the performing arts, witness captivating theatrical and musical performances in and around the Teatro Ángela Peralta.
ArtwalkART
(www.artwalkmazatlan.com; h4-8pm 1st Fri of the month Nov-Apr)
Get a taste of Mazatlán’s arts scene through this self-guided walking tour of artists’ studios and galleries.
4Sleeping
oFunky Monkey HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map %cell 669-4313421; www.funkymonkeyhostel.net; Cerro Boludo 112; dm/d incl breakfast M$265/630; pna
iWs; gSábalo-Centro)
Genially run in a quiet residential suburb about 1.2km from the beach, this facility-packed hostel makes a fine place to hang out, with ample lounging space, a pretty pool, two kitchens and hammocks. Private rooms come with their own kitchen, bathroom and air-con, while fan-cooled dorms are spacious with colorful bed covers and decent mattresses. Surfboard rentals and free bikes.
Hotel Posada Los TabachinesHOTEL$
(map Google map %669-982-29-10; www.hoteltabachines.com; Río Elota 2; d/ste from M$400/470; pnaW; gSábalo-Centro)
Just 100m from the beach and five blocks from the bus station, this convenient budget hotel has clean air-conditioned rooms with tile floors and larger suites with kitchens, making it good value if you don’t mind early-morning noise from the lobby.
Hostal MazatlánHOSTEL$
(map %699-688-57-55; www.hostalmazatlan.com; Constitución 809; dm/d M$290/600; naW; gSábalo-Centro)
This downtown hostel has several things working in its favor: it’s two blocks from the spirited Plaza Machado, bike rentals are dirt-cheap and it offers a look at Mazatlán’s less touristy side, with plenty of neighborhood bars and local eateries nearby. Choose between air-conditioned six-bed dorms or tidy private rooms with their own bathrooms.
Melville SuitesHOTEL$$
(map Google map %669-982-84-74; www.themelville.com; Constitución 99; ste M$1390-2400; naW; gSábalo-Centro)
Enormous suites with high ceilings and thick walls surrounding a central courtyard give this perfectly located, relaxed option plenty of old-Mexico character. Rustic rooms also come with fans, air-con and kitchenette. The downside? There’s loads of street noise in the front chambers on weekend nights. Car park opposite.
Hotel La SiestaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %669-981-26-40; www.lasiesta.com.mx; Paseo Olas Altas 11; r M$1178-1416; naiWs; gSábalo-Centro)
Sitting pretty above Playa Olas Altas, La Siesta is a good option if you can snag one of the choice sea-view rooms. When we last visited, the spacious interior rooms were getting a makeover with new furnishings and mattresses. The pleasant central courtyard and attached restaurant are good places to meet other travelers. Books out quickly in summer.
SuitelGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map %669-985-41-40; www.facebook.com/suitel522; Río Presidio 522; r incl breakfast M$1100; naW; gSábalo-Centro) S
Three blocks from the beach, this is a good-value option offering spotless (but somewhat musty) rooms with kitchenettes along a pleasant plant-filled patio. It rents out bikes, bodyboards and fishing gear and has an ecologically minded policy of recycling solid waste. Turn off the coast road opposite the gold statue of a pulmonía taxi.
Casa ContentaAPARTMENT$$
(map Google map %669-913-49-76; www.casacontenta.com.mx; Av Playa Gaviotas 224; apt/house M$1600/3600; pnaWs; gSábalo-Centro)
Right on the beach in the heart of Zona Dorada, these spacious apartments – each with cable TV, kitchenette, dining area, double bed and two twins – make a decent option for families. The rooms and beds could do with a bit of modernizing, but it’s friendly and pretty fair value for this great location.
Motel MarleyMOTEL$$
(map Google map %669-913-55-33; http://travelbymexico.com/sina/marley; Av Playa Gaviotas 226; 1-/2-bedroom apt M$1400/1600; pnaiWs; gSábalo-Centro)
The most atmospheric of the string of low-budget spots in Zona Dorada, this place offers dated but comfortable seafront apartments, set in four-unit blocks and staggered for airflow, with well-equipped kitchens, an oceanfront lawn, a pool and – best of all – privileged beach access.
oCasa de LeyendasB&B$$$
(map Google map %669-981-61-80; www.casadeleyendas.com; Venustiano Carranza 4; r incl breakfast M$2118-2975; naiWs; gSábalo-Centro)
One of Old Mazatlán’s homiest B&Bs. The sprawling two-story building near Playa Olas Altas houses six comfy adults-only rooms, all with coffee makers, fridges, hairdryers, safes and other nice touches. Common areas include a library, a lively, well-stocked and reasonably priced bar, a central ‘cocktail pool’ with Jacuzzi jets, a fully equipped guest kitchen and two spacious upstairs patios.
Villa SerenaAPARTMENT$$$
(map %cell 669-1500034; www.villa-serena.blogspot.com; Heriberto Frías 1610; 1-/2-bedroom apt from US$100/120; nas; gSábalo-Centro)
Once a cigar factory, this 19th-century historic beauty has been converted into a 14-unit apartment complex. The best ones are the two-story digs with high wood-beamed ceilings, tiled floors, full kitchens and private patios. A small pool in the tranquil courtyard and a rooftop Jacuzzi seal the deal.
Las 7 MaravillasB&B$$$
(map Google map %669-136-06-46; www.las7maravillas.com; Av Las Palmas 1; r incl breakfast M$2200-3200; naW; gSábalo-Centro)
A block above the waterfront but in a quiet residential area, this classy place aims at the couples market with personalized service, security details, Jacuzzi-with-a-view and a reader-praised breakfast buffet. Each of the six rooms is lightly themed on the country after which it is named. It’s an impressive overall package that needs to be reserved in advance. No under-15s.
JonathonBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %669-915-63-60; www.jonathonhotel.com; Av Carnaval 1205; r incl breakfast M$1964-3778; naWs; gSábalo-Centro)
On a pedestrian street just off Plaza Machado, set around a striking columnar courtyard with a modern spiral staircase. Rooms are a good size with floating beds, hardwood closets and shelving; the pricier setups come with Jacuzzis. It’s slightly over the top, but super-comfortable with a great location and a rooftop pool with a view.
Hotel Playa MazatlánRESORT$$$
(map Google map %669-989-05-55; www.hotelplayamazatlan.com; Av Playa Gaviotas 202; r from M$2500; pnaiWs; gSábalo-Centro)
This large resort – the first built in the Zona Dorada – maintains impeccable standards. Half the rooms have ocean views, and all come equipped with cable TV, private terrace and the thoughtful touches that mark a classy operation. Manicured tropical gardens and a breezy oceanside restaurant make this Mazatlán’s most stylish large hotel.
5Eating
Mazatlán is famous for fresh seafood. Pescado zarandeado is a delicious, spiced, charcoal-grilled fish; the shrimp here is as sweet as you’ll ever taste.
Good locations for cheap, fresh, no-frills seafood are around the Mercado de Mariscos at the southern end of Playa Norte, and the thatched kiosks on the beach opposite hotels Hacienda and Cima, a little further north.
5Old Mazatlán & Around
Tacos JoséTACOS$
(map %cell 669-9940467; cnr Río Presidio & Av Rotarismo; tacos M$17-35; h6pm-1:30am; gSábalo-Centro)
This wildly popular street taco stand specializes in carne asada, grilled beef served on a corn or flour tortilla with your choice of salsas. Regulars love a cholesterol bomb known as the choreada (grilled beef served on a crisp tortilla with a lard spread). Non-meat eaters can order quesadillas or hit the seafood stall across the street.
Helarte SanoICE CREAM$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/helartesano; Av Carnaval 1129; popsicles M$10-35, ice cream M$35-55; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Makes over three dozen flavors of paletas (popsicles), sherbets and Mexican-inspired gelato, including unconventional fruit flavors (lemon-rosemary, kumquat, avocado), diabetic-friendly sugar-free offerings, and small popsicles for kids.
Mercado de Mariscos Playa NorteSEAFOOD$
(map Google map Paseo Claussen s/n; fish per kg M$60-100; h8am-3pm; gSábalo-Centro)
This no-frills market sells fish and seafood straight off the boats that dock on the beach opposite. Stalls here will cook up your purchases or your own catch.
Nieves de Garrafa de con MedranoICE CREAM$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/nievesdegarrafadeconmedrano; cnr Flores & Calle 5 de Mayo; ice cream M$20-30; h11am-9pm; gSábalo-Centro)
A local tradition since 1938, this unpretentious family-run cart near Mazatlán’s Plaza Principal dishes out delicious homemade ice cream to devoted crowds. Try the vanilla, prune, coconut or guayaba flavors.
PanamáMEXICAN, BAKERY$$
(map Google map %669-985-18-53; www.panama.com.mx; cnr Canizales & Juárez; mains M$68-164; h7am-10:30pm; W; gSábalo-Centro)
With a zillion different breakfast combos, ranging from North American standards to Mexican treats such as chilaquiles (tortilla strips drenched in salsa), this locally popular bakery and diner is a great place to start the day, or continue it. Has a few other locations around town.
Angelina’s KitchenMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %669-910-15-96; www.facebook.com/angelinaslatinkitchen; Venustiano Carranza 18; mains M$120-200; hnoon-11pm Tue-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun mid-Oct–Jul; W
v; gSábalo-Centro)
Behind an unobtrusive facade, this surprisingly capacious restaurant is something of a local favorite and it’s easy to see why. A casual menu runs from burgers and salads to ceviches and Greek pizza, plus plenty of vegetarian options. Seafood is expertly selected and prepared, whether it’s plump, sweet crustaceans or marinated fish on your plate.
Fonda de ChalioMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %669-910-04-80; fondadechalio33@hotmail.com; Paseo Olas Altas 166; mains M$130-185; h7am-11pm Sun-Fri, to midnight Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
This street-front cafe across from the malecón (beach promenade) is popular with Mazatlán’s middle-aged locals. Breakfasts pack out for baskets of pan dulce (pastries), chilaquiles with machaca (spiced, shredded dried beef) and huevos con nopales (scrambled eggs with cactus paddles). Evenings get lively with aguachile (a local ceviche), cold beer and street-side music and dancing.
Pedro & LolaFUSION$$
(map Google map %669-982-25-89; www.restaurantpedroylola.com; Av Carnaval 1303; mains M$129-238; h6pm-1am; W; gSábalo-Centro)
This stylish eatery on Plaza Machado does outstanding small plates, including delectable shrimp and octopus dishes. The fresh fish of the day comes cooked in a variety of ways – go garlic-sautéed for the most flavor – and there are always interesting new takes on traditional Sinaloa dishes. Live jazz and blues acts play Thursday to Sunday.
oHéctor’s BistroFUSION$$$
(map Google map %669-981-15-77; www.facebook.com/hectorsbistro; Escobedo 409, cnr Heriberto Frías; mains M$165-295; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
Commodious and with willing service, this is the praised venture of a popular local chef. Dishes such as seafood carpaccios, homemade pastrami, tasty pastas and salads bursting with fresh prawns and avocado are complemented by daily blackboard specials that might feature pork fillet or T-bone steak. The interior combines modern elegance with the high old beamed ceiling to good effect.
oEl PresidioMEXICAN$$$
(map %669-910-26-15; www.facebook.com/elpresidiococinademexico; Blvd Niños Héroes 1511; mains M$149-329; h1-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
Dining in the courtyard of this beautifully restored 19th-century estate building takes you back to an other era. Standout menu items include zarandeado (grilled) shrimp with Mexican noodles and smoked pork shank, which is slow-cooked in a pit for 14 hours. Presidio’s well-stocked cantina pours fine mezcal, tequila and local craft beer.
Gaia BistrotINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map %669-112-25-25; www.gaiabistrot.com.mx; Heriberto Frías 1301; mains M$165-275; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sat, 1:30-10pm Sun; Wv; gSábalo-Centro)
Chef Gilberto del Toro has earned praise for a menu featuring international dishes such as braised beef in red wine sauce and paella valenciana (seasoned rice and seafood), which is made on Sundays only. For dessert try the vanilla panna cotta with balsamic marinated strawberries. Vegetarians can rely on a variety of salads, soups and pastas.
TopoloMEXICAN$$$
(map Google map %669-136-06-60; www.topolomaz.com; Constitución 629; mains M$220-260; h3-11pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun mid-Aug–Sep; W; gSábalo-Centro)
For a romantic, mariachi-free dinner, step into this softly lit courtyard in a historic central building. Though aimed at gringos, it has plenty of charm: waiters prepare fresh salsa at your table while chefs cook specialties such as tequila shrimp or fish in cilantro butter.
5Zona Dorada & Around
Pura VidaVEGETARIAN$
(map Google map %669-916-10-10; puravidatogo@gmail.com; Bugambilias 18; mains M$85-106; h8am-10:30pm; aWv; gSábalo-Centro)
Serves salads, sandwiches, Mexican snacks and vegetarian fare, but is most sought out for its juices and smoothies (drinks M$45–$54). Its menu is packed with creative concoctions blended from all the tropical fruit you love, as well as apples, dates, prunes, wheatgrass, spirulina and strawberries.
Tomates VerdesMEXICAN$
(map Google map %669-913-21-36; Laguna 42; set meals M$55; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
Cozy and unpretentious, this breakfast and lunch spot serves dishes such as pechuga rellena (stuffed chicken breast) and flavorful soups such as nopales con chipotle (spicy cactus). Meals come with soup, a main dish and rice or beans. The menu changes daily.
Carlos & Lucía’sCUBAN, MEXICAN$$
(map %669-913-56-77; lucialleras@yahoo.com; Av Camarón Sábalo 2000; mains M$80-220; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
What do you get when you combine the talents of a Mexican named Carlos and a Cuban-born chef named Lucía? A vibrant, colorful little restaurant serving homestyle specialties from both countries. Try the plato Carlos y Lucía, shrimp and fish cooked in brandy, accompanied by rice, veggies and plantains. It’s opposite the Palms Resort.
Pancho’s RestaurantMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %669-914-09-11; www.lospanchosmazatlan.com; Av Playa Gaviotas 408, Centro Comercial Las Cabañas; mains M$165-269; h7am-11pm; W; gSábalo-Centro)
With two levels right on Playa Las Gaviotas, this place has a spectacular outlook and the food measures up. There’s a big range, whether you want tasty aguachile (a local ceviche) or a huge seafood platter. Or just drop by for a drink – the army of waiting staff will snappily provide a monster margarita or icy-cold beer.
Todos SantosSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map %669-112-13-22; www.facebook.com/todosantosmariscosoficial; cnr Av Marina & Rodolfo Gaona; dishes M$129-189; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; pW; gSábalo-Cocos)
This breezy open-air place is popular with young mazatleco couples for a date, offering a surf theme and a cheeky, good-time vibe, though staff show plenty of attitude. The long seafood menu has lots of innovation and quality: enjoy delicious tuna, fresh oysters, a range of ceviches and some excellent fish fillet creations. It’s behind the Soriana Plus shopping center on Avenida Rafael Buelna.
YokoSUSHI$$
(map Google map %669-982-55-99; Av del Mar 720; mains & sushi rolls M$80-175; h1-11pm; W; gSábalo-Centro)
In a town swimming with sushi restaurants, locals consistently nominate Yoko as one of the best.
Casa LomaINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %669-913-53-98; www.restaurantcasaloma.com; Av Las Gaviotas 104; mains M$145-298; h1:30-11pm; W; gSábalo-Centro)
At this genteel eatery, enjoy chateaubriand béarnaise (steak with homemade béarnaise sauce) or poached fish blanca rosa (with shrimp, asparagus and mushrooms) in the swanky dining room or outdoors by the burbling fountain.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Mazatlán has earned its reputation as a nightlife destination with a great selection of high-energy dance clubs frequented by visiting college students, lending a Mexican spring-break vibe. The scene starts percolating around 10pm and boils over after midnight. If you’re more partial to sipping and people-watching, head to Avenida Olas Altas or deeper into Old Mazatlán.
oCervecería Tres IslasBREWERY
(map Google map %669-688-54-57; www.facebook.com/cervezatresislas; Av Alemán 923; h1pm-10:30pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
Mazatlán’s best craft beer is on tap in the friendly neighborhood barroom of this small brewery. The hoppy IPA and Belgian-style saison go down nicely on a warm day. On Thursday and Friday nights you’re likely to catch DJ sets or live music acts. There’s no kitchen, but you’re allowed to order in food.
La FieraLOUNGE
(map %669-913-16-85; www.facebook.com/fierarest; Av Cámaron Sábalo 1968; h6pm-1am Thu & Fri, to 3:30am Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
The adjoining bar of restaurant La Fiera provides a much-needed escape from the Zona Dorada’s raucous nightclubs. Resident and guest DJs spin everything from house and reggae to cumbia (dance music originating from Colombia) and hip-hop in a low-lit cocktail lounge. The restaurant does good food, but expect small portions.
Looney BeanCAFE
(map Google map %669-136-05-07; www.looneybeanmzt.com; Paseo Olas Altas 166G; drinks M$20-50, pastries M$20-50; h7:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun; W; gSábalo-Centro)
A terrific local coffee shop on the main seaside drag with strong coffee and espresso drinks, juices and smoothies. It also has strawberry scones bigger than your face – they’re almost impossible to eat in one sitting, though you may try (they are that good).
Vitrolas BarGAY
(map Google map %669-985-22-21; www.vitrolasbar.com; Heriberto Frías 1608; h8pm-2am Thu-Sun; W; gSábalo-Centro)
This gracious gay bar in a beautifully restored building is romantically lit and, overall, more button-down than mesh muscle shirt. It’s also a popular spot for karaoke and it does a decent pizza. Not at all sceney.
Fiesta LandCLUB
(map Google map %669-989-16-00; www.fiestaland.mx; Av Camarón Sábalo s/n; h9pm-4am Thu-Sun; W; gSábalo-Centro)
The ostentatious white castle on Punta Camarón at the south end of the Zona Dorada is the undisputed epicenter of Mazatlán’s nightlife. Inside its walls are a half-dozen clubs, including several of the city’s most popular dance spots.
Valentino’s draws a mixed crowd to three dance floors throbbing with hip-hop and Latin music; Bora Bora is popular for its open-air dance floor and lax policy on bar-top dancing; and seasonal Sumbawa Beach Club is the perfect after-hours spot for dancing on the sand, lounging on an oversized mattress or cooling off in the pool.
3Entertainment
For entertainment listings, check Pacific Pearl (www.pacificpearl.com), available in hotel lobbies around town and online.
Cinemas GaviotasCINEMA
(map Google map %669-984-28-48; www.cinemasgaviotas.com.mx; Av Camarón Sábalo 218; M$30; gSábalo-Centro)
Screens recent releases, including some original version Hollywood films with subtitles.
7Shopping
The Zona Dorada is replete with tourist-oriented stores that sell clothes, jewelry, pottery and crafts. Old Mazatlán has quirkier, artier offerings.
Casa EtnikaARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map %669-136-01-39; www.facebook.com/casaetnika; Sixto Osuna 50; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro) S
Family-run Casa Etnika offers a small, tasteful inventory of unique objects, many made by local Mexican artisans. It also has a cafe that pours fair-trade coffee. Can organize shipping to the USA and Canada.
La QuerenciaART
(map Google map %669-981-10-36; www.facebook.com/laquerenciagaleriadearte; Heriberto Frías 1405; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; W; gSábalo-Centro)
This sizable gallery-shop with entrances on two streets (the other one being on Belisario Dominguez) has striking ceramics, painted wood objects, sculptures and jewelry. Some of the pieces are huge – you won’t be squeezing them into your carry-on luggage. La Querencia doubles as a bistro-bar.
Gandarva BazarARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map %669-136-06-65; www.facebook.com/gandarvabazar; Constitución 616; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)
This wonderfully atmospheric courtyard gallery is filled with drums, sculpture, masks, crosses, dolls made from gourds, hearts made from glass… It has a fair amount of mass-produced stuff, but there are some interesting reproduction Chinesco (an early-1st-millennium culture in Nayarit) ceramics too.
Mercado Pino SuárezMARKET
(map Google map Mercado Centro; www.mercadopinosuarezmazatlan.com; Melchor Ocampo 7; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Old Mazatlán’s central market offers a classic Mexican experience, complete with vegetable stands, spice dealers, food stalls and shops selling bargain-priced crafts.
NidartCERAMICS, HANDICRAFTS
(map Google map %669-985-59-91; www.facebook.com/nidartgallery; Libertad 45; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat; gSábalo-Centro)
Sells handmade leather masks, sculptures and ceramics from its in-house studio; it also represents numerous other local artisans. The leathery aromas are a real treat.
8Information
Free wi-fi is available in numerous bars, restaurants and accommodations.
Go Mazatlán (www.gomazatlan.com) is a useful website proffering information about Mazatlán and around.
Hospital Sharp (%669-986-56-78; www.hospitalsharp.com; Jesús Kumate s/n, cnr Av Rafael Buelna; gSábalo-Centro) Competent and modern private hospital.
Secretaría de Turismo (map %669-915-66-00; http://turismo.sinaloa.gob.mx; Av del Mar 882; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; gSábalo-Centro) Gives out a mediocre free map and a few leaflets about the interior, but is not any help as far as practical information goes.
8Getting There & Away
Most US flights to Mazatlán connect through Mexico City or Phoenix, though there are a couple that fly direct from Los Angeles and Dallas.
AIR
Rafael Buelna International Airport (Mazatlan Airport; %669-982-23-99; www.oma.aero/en/airports/mazatlan; Carretera Internacional al Sur s/n) is 26km southeast of the Zona Dorada. There are direct flights to several US and Canadian destinations.
The following domestic destinations are serviced by these airlines:
A Guadalajara – TAR
A Mexico City – Aeroméxico, VivaAerobús, Volaris, Interjet
A Monterrey – VivaAerobús
A Tijuana – Volaris
Aeroméxico (www.aeromexico.com) has offices in Zona Dorada (%669-914-11-11; www.aeromexico.com; Av Camarón Sábalo 310; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; gSábalo-Centro) and at the airport (%669-982-34-44; www.aeromexico.com; Carretera Internacional al Sur s/n; h4am-11pm).
BOAT
Baja Ferries (map %800-337-74-37; www.bajaferries.com; Av Barragán s/n, Playa Sur; seat adult/child one way M$1240/620, car M$3200; hticket office 8am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sun, to 3pm Tue; gPlaya Sur) operates ferries from the terminal at the southern end of town between Mazatlán and the port town of Pichilingue (23km from La Paz in Baja California Sur). Boats depart at 6:30pm (be there at 4:30pm) on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday and take around 12 hours. They return at 8pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Winter winds may cause delays.
The full-service Central de Autobuses (Main Bus Station; %669-982-02-87; Espinoza Ferrusquilla s/n; gSábalo-Cocos) is just off Avenida Ejército Mexicano, four blocks inland from the northern end of Playa Norte. All bus lines operate from separate halls in the main terminal.
Local buses to small towns nearby (such as Concordia, Cosalá and El Rosario) operate from a smaller station, behind the main terminal.
BUSES FROM MAZATLáN
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Culiacán | 130-180 | 2¾-3 | frequent |
| Durango | 495-685 | 4-5½ | frequent |
| Guadalajara | 505-705 | 8-8½ | frequent |
| Los Mochis | 455-532 | 6-7 | frequent |
| Manzanillo | 909 | 12 | 2 |
| Mexicali | 1260-1470 | 22-25 | frequent |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 985-1275 | 13-16 | frequent |
| Monterrey | 1395-1580 | 12-14 | 5 |
| Puerto Vallarta | 570 | 9 | 4 |
| Tepic | 290-430 | 4-5 | frequent |
| Tijuana | 1370-1560 | 24-27 | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Local all-inclusive rental rates begin at around M$750 per day during the high season.
Alamo Airport (%669-981-22-66; www.alamo.com.mx; Rafael Buelna International Airport; h6am-9pm); Zona Dorada (%669-913-10-10; Av Camarón Sábalo 410; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Budget Airport (%669-982-63-63; www.budget.com.mx; Rafael Buelna International Airport; h7am-10pm); Zona Dorada (%669-913-20-00; Av Camarón Sábalo 413; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Europcar Airport (%669-954-81-15; www.europcar.com.mx/en; Rafael Buelna International Airport; h7am-11pm); Zona Dorada (%669-913-33-68; Av Camarón Sábalo 357; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
Hertz Airport (%669-985-37-31; https://hertzmexico.com; Rafael Buelna International Airport; h8am-8pm); Zona Dorada (%669-913-49-55; Av Camarón Sábalo 314; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; gSábalo-Centro)
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Taxis and colectivos (shuttle buses picking up and dropping off passengers along predetermined routes) operate from the airport to town. Tickets for both can be purchased at a booth just outside the arrivals hall (colectivo M$115; taxi M$400). There is no public bus running between Mazatlán and the airport.
BICYCLE
Mazatlán is an easy town to navigate by bicycle, as the malecón (beach promenade) leads from the town center all the way to the Zona Dorada. There are lots of bike-rental places along the coast.
Baikas (%669-910-19-99; www.baikas.mx; Paseo Olas Altas 166; city bikes per hour/day M$70/300, hybrids M$100/400; h7am-9pm; gSábalo-Centro) Professional setup with city bikes and pricier hybrids. There’s another branch (%669-984-01-01; www.baikas.mx; Av del Mar 1111; city bikes per hour/day M$70/300, hybrids M$100/400; h7am-9pm; gSábalo-Centro) near the Zona Dorada.
BUS
Local buses run from 6am to 10:30pm. Regular buses cost M$7; those with air-con are M$10.
From the Central de Autobuses bus terminal, go to Avenida Ejército Mexicano and catch any bus going south to downtown. Alternatively, walk 400m from the bus terminal to the beach and take a Sábalo–Centro bus heading south to downtown or north to the Zona Dorada.
Main routes:
Playa Sur Travels (map gPlaya Sur) south along Avenida Ejército Mexicano, near the bus terminal and through downtown, passing the Mercado Centro, then to the ferry terminal and El Faro.
Sábalo–Centro Travels from the Mercado Centro to Playa Norte via Juárez, then north on Avenida del Mar to the Zona Dorada and further north on Avenida Camarón Sábalo.
Mexcaltitán
%323 / Pop 818
This shield-shaped island village is believed by some experts to be Aztlán, the ancestral homeland that the Aztecs left around AD 1091 to begin their generations-long migration to Tenochtitlán (modern Mexico City). Proponents point to the striking similarities between the cruciform design of Mexcaltitán’s streets and the urban layout of early Tenochtitlán. A pre-Hispanic bas-relief in stone found in the area is also provided as evidence – it depicts a heron clutching a snake, an allusion to the sign the Aztecs hoped to find in the promised land.
These days Mexcaltitán is foremost a shrimping town. Men head out into the surrounding wetlands, which are spectacular, in the early evening in small boats, to return just before dawn with their nets bulging.
It’s a very laid-back, friendly place. Tourism has scarcely made a mark here.
1Sights
Museo del OrigenMUSEUM
(%cell 323-1209323; Plaza s/n; M$5; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
This small but enchanting museum on the plaza offers info in Spanish on the history of museums, a small archaeological collection and pictures of ruins and petroglyphs. There’s also a reproduction of a fascinating long scroll (the Códice Boturini), telling the story of the Aztec’s travels, with their initial departure from an island looking very much like Mexcaltitán.
Activities
Arrange boat trips on the lagoon for bird-watching, fishing and sightseeing – every family has one or more boats. Trips start at M$50, which gets you a circuit of the island; otherwise expect to pay M$300 per hour.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LAS LABRADAS
More than 600 petroglyphs, some believed to be more than 5000 years old, are depicted on volcanic rocks known as Las Labradas (%cell 696-1041144; www.facebook.com/laslabradas; via Hwy 15D Km 51, Ejido la Chicayota; M$55; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun) along a sublime stretch of coast about 60km north of Mazatlán. Many of the carvings were made between AD 750–1250 and are tied to summer solstice, as evidenced by the solar and geometric engravings. You’ll also see intriguing human and animal figures, such as a manta ray-shaped rock. Pack a swimsuit and lunch to enjoy some quality beach time.
Las Labradas is best reached by car. From Mazatlán take Hwy 15 to Hwy 15D and exit just past Km 51, then head coastward about 5.5km along a dirt road. Alternatively, Onca runs tours to the site.
zFestivals & Events
Semana SantaRELIGIOUS
(hMar or Apr)
Holy Week is celebrated in a big way here. On Good Friday a statue of Christ is put on a cross in the church, then taken down and carried through the streets.
Fiesta de San Pedro ApóstolRELIGIOUS
(hlate Jun)
During this raucous festival, which celebrates the patron saint of fishing, statues of SS Peter and Paul are taken out into the lagoon in decorated lanchas (skiffs).
4Sleeping & Eating
Don’t leave town without trying the local specialty albóndigas de camarón (shrimp meatballs), shrimp empanadas (turnovers) or perhaps a rich jugo de camarón (shrimp broth). The shrimp tamales sold in the morning from a wheelbarrow on the streets are another culinary highlight.
Hotel Casino PlazaHOTEL$
(%323-235-08-50; hotelcasino.facturas@gmail.com; Ocampo s/n, cnr Rayón, Santiago Ixcuintla; s/d M$475/555; pna)
The motel-style setup offers clean rooms, a restaurant and a location five blocks from the Mexcaltitán colectivo terminal (M$35). In Santiago Ixcuintla; it makes a good base for visiting the island village of Mexcaltitán.
oLa AlbercaSEAFOOD$$
(%323-235-60-27; Porfirio Diaz s/n, off Venecia; mains M$90-110; h9am-6pm)
On the island’s east side, this has a great lagoon view. It’s cheerily run, despite the fact that the staff have to spend half their days peeling crustaceans. It’s all about shrimp: try shrimp empanadas (turnovers), shrimp ceviche and shrimp albóndigas (meatballs) in a delicious chili-inflected shrimp broth. The fried shrimp (called cucarachas) as a free appetizer are very moreish.
Mariscos KikaSEAFOOD$$
(%323-235-60-54; Loma China s/n; mains M$70-150; h9am-6pm)
For fish, shrimp and octopus cooked a dozen ways, hop on a boat to this family-run place on a small island just across from Mexcaltitán’s main dock. Grassy lawns and sun loungers provide reasons to linger.
8Getting There & Away
Catch a bus from San Blas (M$70, one hour) or Tepic (M$71, one hour) to Santiago Ixcuintla, 7km west of Hwy 15 and 52km northwest of Tepic. Once in Santiago, take a colectivo (M$35, 45 minutes, four daily) or taxi (M$200) to La Batanga, a small wharf 35km away where lanchas (motorboats) depart for Mexcaltitán. The arrival and departure times of the lanchas are coordinated with the colectivo schedule. The boat journey takes 15 minutes and costs M$15 per person. If you miss the lancha, you can hire a private one for M$120.
From Mazatlán, catch a Tepic-bound bus, jump off at the junction for Santiago Ixcuintla and wait for further transportation.
San Blas
%323 / Pop 10,187
The tranquil fishing village of San Blas is a peaceful, drowsy backwater, and therein lies its charm. Visitors come to enjoy isolated beaches, fine surfing, abundant birdlife and tropical jungles reached by riverboats.
San Blas was an important Spanish port from the late 16th century to the 19th century. The Spanish built a fortress here to protect their trading galleons from marauding British and French pirates. It was also the port from which St Junípero Serra, the ‘Father’ of the California missions, embarked on his northward peregrination. While on either side of the main drag San Blas is just another cobblestoned backwater, the uniform whitewashed facades on Avenida Juárez itself lend a dreamy revival quality that is immediately endearing.
1Sights
oPlaya Las IslitasBEACH
The best beaches are southeast of town around Bahía de Matanchén, starting with Playa Las Islitas, 7km from San Blas. To get here, take the main road toward Tepic and turn right after about 4km. This paved road goes south to Matanchén, where a dirt road leads east to Playa Las Islitas and continues on to wonderfully swimmable beaches.
Playa El BorregoBEACH
The beach closest to the town is Playa El Borrego, at the end of Azueta – look for the jet aircraft. It’s a long sweep of gray sand with decent waves backed by a string of casual bar-restaurants. Swimming can be treacherous – beware of rip currents – but there are flags and a lifeguard. A handful of old gauchos offer horseback rides (M$50) on the beach, which last 15 to 30 minutes.
Cocodrilario KiekariZOO
(map Google map %cell 311-1456231; www.facebook.com/kiekari.cocodrilario; Ejido La Palma s/n; M$30; h9am-7pm; p)
On the river, this crocodile nursery rears toothy reptiles that later get released into the wild as part of a repopulation program. There are also some non-release crocs, felines (jaguars and lynxes) and other captive creatures. It’s usually reached by a La Tovara boat tour, but is also accessible by road (10.5km from San Blas).
La ContaduríaFORTRESS
(map Google map Del Panteón s/n; M$10; h9am-7pm; p)
This hill is the site of San Blas’ original colonial settlement. It’s worth visiting for the views and to stroll around the ruins of the 18th-century Spanish fort, where colonial riches were once amassed and counted before being shipped off to Mexico City or the Philippines. The place is still guarded by a collection of corroded cannons. On the way up are the gorgeous ruins of the settlement’s church, Templo de la Virgen del Rosario, built in 1769.
2Activities
For bird-watching, sportfishing and swimming with whale sharks, see www.sanblasrivieranayarit.com/tours to contact local tour operators.
Beginner and intermediate surfers choose to hone their skills at San Blas for its many beach and point breaks. The season starts in May, but the waves are fairly mellow until September and October when the south swell brings long rides. Surf spots include El Borrego, La Puntilla (by a river mouth south of Playa El Borrego), El Mosco (west of San Blas on Isla del Rey) and Stoner’s (further south, between San Blas and Las Islitas), which is known for having one of the longest waves in the world.
Stoner’s Surf CampSURFING
(Playa Azul; %cell 323-2322225; www.stonerssurfcamp.com; Ramada 7, Playa El Borrego; classes per person M$300, board rental per hour/day from M$60/150)
At Playa El Borrego, this is the nexus of the surf scene. National longboard champion ‘Pompis’ Cano gives lessons and holds court under the palapa. You can also stay (here) at the camp.
TTours
In addition to the popular La Tovara tours, more boats depart from landings on Estero El Pozo, running trips to Piedra Blanca (M$500 for up to six people, one hour) to visit a statue of the Virgin; to Isla del Rey (M$30 per person; five minutes) just across from San Blas; and to Playa del Rey, a 20km beach on the other side of the Isla del Rey peninsula.
At a dock north of Avenida Juárez you can hire boatmen to take you bird-watching (M$300 per hour), whale-watching (December through March M$250 per person) and fishing (M$2800 per boat). You can also make arrangements there to visit Isla Isabel, where the boatmen accompany you on an interesting overnight trip. It’s a national park and protected ecological preserve three hours northwest of San Blas by boat. The island is a bird-watcher’s paradise, but there are no facilities, so be prepared for self-sufficient camping. You can fish for your dinner, but tour operators will also help negotiate good prices with local fishers. Overnight trips generally go for M$9000 for up to six people.
oLa TovaraBOATING
(map Google map %cell 323-1169997; www.latovara.com; to La Tovara M$150, per person to La Tovara & cocodrilario M$200; h7am-4pm; gSan Blas-Tepic) S
A boat trip to the freshwater spring of La Tovara is a San Blas highlight. Small boats depart from the embarcadero (dock) at the eastern edge of town or from the main dock 4.5km further east on the road to Matanchén. The three-hour trips go up the San Cristóbal estero (estuary) to the spring, passing thick jungle and mangroves.
La Tovara is a designated Ramsar site, and benefits from an international treaty to conserve wetlands.
There’s a restaurant at La Tovara, where you can stop for lunch, or you can extend the trip to include the Cocodrilario Kiekari crocodile zoo.
Boats usually wait to head out with groups of six to eight people, so you’re best off catching one at the main dock, where there are more frequent departures. From the zócalo, take a San Blas–Tepic combi to the main dock.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Internacional de Aves MigratoriasBIRDWATCHING
(www.facebook.com/fiamsanblas; hJan & Feb)
4Sleeping
oCasa Roxanna BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(map Google map %323-285-05-73; www.casaroxanna.com; El Rey 1; d M$800-900; pnaWs
#)
This refined haven offers eight large bungalows and two smaller rooms; angle for one of the larger upstairs units (sleeping up to five) with full kitchen and a screened porch overlooking the pool and manicured palm-treed grounds. English is spoken and discounts are offered for longer stays.
Bungalows ConnyINN$
(map Google map %323-285-09-86; www.bungalowsconny.com; Chiapas 26; d from M$600, bungalows M$850; pnaWs)
On a quiet side of town, this place rests easy with just four modern rooms and bungalows. The largest bungalow is fresh and feels like a small apartment with a large kitchen. The sunny pool area provides plenty of relaxation. Owner Tom can offer great travel tips.
Hotelito Casa de las CocadasHOTEL$
(map Google map %323-285-09-60; www.hotellacasadelascocadas.com; Av Juárez 145; d M$800; naWs)
Estancia Don RobertoHOTEL$
(map Google map %323-131-27-78; www.facebook.com/hotelestanciadonroberto; Isla María Magadalena 50; s/d M$560/795; pnaWs)
The most modern of San Blas’ budget offerings. Tidy rooms with air-con, sofa and satellite TV surround a colorful lobby with an enticing blue-tiled pool. Quite a deal if you’re looking for affordable digs with a few creature comforts.
Stoner’s Surf CampCABIN, CAMPGROUND$
(Playa Azul; %cell 323-2322225; www.stonerssurfcamp.com; Playa El Borrego; campsites per person M$80, cabins without bathroom d/q M$250/500; p)
The cabañas (cabins) at this friendly traveler hangout and surf center have electricity, mosquito nets (you’ll need them), fans and suspect beds. The choicest digs are the rickety stilted cabins on the beach. There’s space to camp and hammocks; the Playa Azul restaurant serves well-prepared fare. Cabaña guests get free use of bikes plus discounts at the surf center.
oHotel Hacienda FlamingosHOTEL$$
(map %323-285-09-30; www.sanblas.com.mx/flamingo; Av Juárez 105; d from M$1200, ste M$1900; pnaiWs)
This restored colonial gem provides the classiest accommodations in town. The spacious rooms and fountain-tinkling courtyard are evocative of old Mexico without even a whiff of kitsch. Some rooms have balconies and antique furniture; all have a filter coffee maker. There’s a very decent pool as well as an on-site bar and small gym.
Posada del ReyHOTEL$$
(map %323-285-01-23; www.sanblas.com.mx/posada-del-rey; Campeche 10; d M$1000; pnaWs)
Neat air-conditioned rooms around an appealing pool make this a worthwhile retreat from the sometimes oppressive midday humidity of San Blas. Staff are easygoing and beds and bathrooms are more than decent, but rooms can be a bit musty.
Hotel Marina San BlasHOTEL$$
(map Google map %323-285-08-12; www.sanblas.com.mx/marina-san-blas; Cuauhtémoc 197; s/d M$850/990; pnaWs)
Near the estuary mouth, within view of the harbor, is this meticulously maintained three-star resort. The grounds are lovely and guests get a free one-hour kayak rental. Kitschy marine-themed rooms have lighthouse lamps and a strange amalgamation of cinder block and tile, but they’re comfy, with river views and cable TV. There’s a pool and small estuary swimming beach.
5Eating
San Blas is a town of casual restaurants and beachfront palapas, all serving fresh seafood at low prices. Cheaper sustenance, including tortas (sandwiches), jugos (juices) and licuados (milkshakes), can be found at the local mercado (map Google map cnr Sinaloa & Batallón de San Blas; mains M$45-90; h7am-1pm).
oOfro’sMEXICAN$
(map %323-285-07-50; oohlala505@outlook.es; Av Juárez 64; mains M$55-130; h7am-10pm; W)
For honest and delicious home-cooked cuisine, head to this family-run place on the main street. It’s a simply but appealingly decorated setup that does good breakfasts, great shrimp, plus chicken and potato tacos – already a substantial meal – and plates of fish and chicken with vegetables, rice and guacamole.
Juan BananasBAKERY, CAFE$
(map Google map La Tumba de Yako; %323-285-05-52; www.facebook.com/panaderiajuanbananas; Batallón de San Blas 219; loaves M$60-65, snacks M$12-55; h8am-7pm)
For four decades this little bakery has been cranking out some of the world’s best banana bread; with any luck, you’ll get a loaf hot from the oven. Juan himself is a terrific source of local information. There’s also a cafe here (open November to May) doing breakfasts and tasty snacks.
oRestaurant El DelfínFUSION$$
(map Google map %323-285-01-12; www.garzacanela.com/en/restaurante-bar-el-delfin; Paredes 106 Sur; breakfast M$55-130, lunch & dinner M$170-189; h8am-10am & 1pm-8:30pm; pW)
Under the direction of internationally renowned chef Betty Vázquez (a judge on Mexico’s MasterChef), this restaurant at the Hotel Garza Canela (map Google map r M$1700, ste M$2700; naWs) serves an impressive array of rich gourmet foods and international wines. Pick from the wonderfully cooked fish, seafood and meat dishes on offer and cap it off with homemade desserts and ice cream. Special diets are imaginatively accommodated.
Mysis IIISEAFOOD$$
(map %cell 323-1086405; horse_pedro@hotmail.com; Playa Las Islitas; mains M$90-140; h9am-7pm; gSan Blas–Tepic combi)
Sitting pretty about 2km south of the San Blas–Tepic Hwy, on Playa Las Islitas, this palapa seafood restaurant whips up excellent shrimp dishes, tostadas and a flavorful caldo de pescado (fish soup). The calm beach and gorgeous scenery make the experience all the more memorable, and the sands south of Mysis are well worth exploring.
San Blas–Tepic combis will leave you at the Playa Las Islitas entrance, from where it’s a 2km stroll.
Caballito del MarSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map %323-216-92-04; caballitodemar10c@gmail.com; Playa El Borrego; mains M$140-160; h11am-7pm Thu-Tue; p#)
This is among the best of the seafood enramadas (thatch-covered, open-air restaurants) lined up along Playa El Borrego. Popular menu items include the cóctel de camarón (shrimp cocktail) and pescado zarandeado (grilled whole fish priced by the kilo).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe Del MarBAR
(map Google map %323-285-10-81; salogv76@hotmail.com; Av Juárez 5; h6pm-2am Fri-Sun; W)
The coolest watering hole in town sits overlooking the plaza, with whitewashed walls hung with authentic indigenous masks. Jazz, salsa, reggae and rock pour from the sound system, mingling with the tropical breeze. The drinks don’t live up to the atmosphere, but it’s still a fine spot to sit.
8Information
Take repellent to San Blas: voracious mosquitoes and sandflies are often present in huge squadrons.
Free municipal wi-fi is available within a 150m radius of the central plaza.
Banamex ATM (Av Juárez s/n) One of a handful of ATMs in town.
Centro de Salud (%323-285-12-07; cnr Azueta & Campeche; h24hr) This central medical center is on the road that heads down to the beach.
Tourist Office (%cell 323-2824913; adry64lopez@hotmail.com; Av Juárez s/n; h2-8pm Mon-Fri) On the main road at the archway that marks your arrival at the center. Has maps and brochures about the area and the state of Nayarit, but keeps iffy office hours.
8Getting There & Away
The little bus terminal (%323-285-00-43; Sinaloa s/n; h6am-8pm) is served by Nayar and Estrella Blanca buses. From/to some destinations, including Mazatlán, you’ll need to change in Tepic or at the junction (crucero de San Blas; M$40) on Hwy 15.
Daily departures include the following:
Puerto Vallarta (M$228, 3½ hours, four daily)
Santiago Ixcuintla (M$70, one hour, frequent)
Tepic (M$64, one hour, frequent 6am to 8pm)
Buses (cnr Canalizo & Mercado; M$15-20) depart from the corner of Canalizo and Mercado several times a day, serving all the villages and beaches on Bahía de Matanchén.
Taxis and Tepic-bound combis congregate around the plaza’s south side and will take you to nearby beaches or drop you off at the main dock for boat rides to national park La Tovara.
Tepic
%311 / Pop 332,863 / Elev 920m
Founded by the nephew of Hernán Cortés in 1524, Tepic is the capital of Nayarit state. It’s a predominantly middle-class place with a veritable hum of provincial bustle playing out on its narrow streets. Indigenous Huicholes are often seen here, wearing their colorful traditional clothing.
Across from Plaza Principal the ornate cathedral, dedicated in 1804, casts a regal eye over the square. Opposite is the Palacio Municipal (city hall), where nearby you’ll often find Huicholes selling handicrafts at reasonable prices. Calle Amado Nervo, north of city hall, and nearby streets are lined with stalls where you can try local specialties such as tejuino (a fermented corn drink) and guamuchil (a small white fruit).
1Sights
oMuseo Regional de NayaritMUSEUM
(%311-212-19-00; www.inah.gob.mx/es/red-de-museos/257-museo-regional-de-nayarit; Av México Norte 91; M$50; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
Set around the courtyard of an impressive magenta palacio (palace), this excellent museum has a beautifully presented selection of top-quality indigenous ceramics mostly sourced from burials from around 200 BC to AD 600. Figures depicting pregnant women, houses, warriors, ball-players and musicians give a real insight into these cultures, while anthropomorphic burial urns from the local Mololoa culture (late 1st millennium AD) sport spooky faces. There’s an interesting section on shells and good information in English throughout.
Museo de los Cinco PueblosMUSEUM
(Museum of the Five Peoples; %311-212-17-05; naycora@hotmail.com; Av México Norte 105; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) SF
Displays contemporary popular arts of Nayarit’s Huichol, Cora, Tepehuano, Mexicanero and mestizo peoples, including clothing, yarn art, weaving, musical instruments, ceramics and beadwork. A shop next door practicing fair trade sells a variety of items made by indigenous artisans.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LAGUNA SANTA MARíA DEL ORO
Surrounded by forested mountains, this idyllic lake fills a volcanic crater that’s over 100m deep and 2km in diameter. The clean water takes on colors ranging from turquoise to slate. It’s a pleasure to walk around the lake and in the surrounding mountains, spotting birds (some 250 species) and butterflies along the way. You can also climb to an abandoned gold mine, cycle, swim, kayak or fish for black bass and perch. A number of restaurants serve fresh lake fish.
If driving, take the Santa María del Oro turnoff about 40km from Tepic along the Guadalajara road. From the turnoff it’s about 9km to Santa María del Oro village, then another 8km to the lake. By bus, catch a ‘Santa María del Oro’ colectivo (M$30, 45 minutes) on Avenida México in Tepic, then change to a colectivo marked ‘Laguna’ at Santa María’s town square or take a private taxi.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHotel Real de Don JuanHOTEL$$
(%311-216-18-88; realdedonjuan2@hotmail.com; Av México Sur 105; r/ste M$1340/1740; pnaiWs)
This beautifully done-up old hotel overlooking Plaza Constituyentes strikes the right balance between colonial character and urbane style. Upstairs rooms are decked out in appealing pastel colors, with luxurious king beds and marble-accented bathrooms. A good restaurant with alcove tables over the street, plus a classy bar and rooftop lounge and lap pool add points. Two imposing angel warrior statues keep watch over the tranquil lobby. Downsides? Wi-fi can be hit-and-miss, and the nearby bells can be a nuisance for late risers.
El Farralón del PacíficoSEAFOOD$$
(%311-213-11-24; www.facebook.com/elfarallondelpacificotepic; Av Insurgentes 282; tostadas M$31-85, mains M$130-210; h11:30am-7pm; pW)
The standout dish here is the pescado zarandeado (grilled whole fish), but the menu features an ample offering of favorites from the sea, including tostadas piled high with ceviche and fresh shrimp.
oEmilianoMEXICAN$$$
(%311-216-20-10; www.emilianorestaurant.com; Zapata Oriente 91; breakfast M$159, lunch & dinner M$198-275; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat; pW)
One of Mexico’s most acclaimed restaurants, Emiliano serves mostly regional fare in a classy courtyard setting. Breakfast is most popular: juice, coffee and fruit are included along with either one of their healthy options or a set-you-up-for-the-day meat dish. Or come in the evening and let the sommelier pick the best wines to pair with chef Marco’s creative dishes.
8Information
City Tourist Office (%311-215-30-00, ext 2000; www.facebook.com/didecotepic; 2nd flr, Amado Nervo s/n; h8am-8pm) Go here for details on city tours. A nearby kiosk gives out information on Nayarit state, as does a desk at the bus terminal.
8Getting There & Away
The main bus station (Tepic Bus Terminal; %311-213-23-30; Av Insurgentes 492) is on the southeastern outskirts of town; local buses (M$6) marked ‘Estación’ make frequent trips between the bus station and downtown. A taxi from the terminal to the center will cost M$40.
Colectivos (Durango Norte 284; M$70; h5am-9pm) to San Blas depart frequently from a small terminal on Durango Norte, between Zaragoza and Amado Nervo. For Laguna Santa María del Oro, catch a colectivo (Av México s/n, btwn Zaragoza Poniente y Bravo Poniente; M$30; h6am-9pm) from Avenida México.
BUSES FROM TEPIC
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guadalajara | 224-375 | 3½-5 | frequent |
| Mazatlán | 350-360 | 4 | hourly |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 1190-1225 | 10-11 | 3 |
| Puerto Vallarta | 205-305 | 3-4 | frequent |
| Santiago Ixcuintla | 71 | 1 | frequent |
8Getting Around
Local buses (M$6) operate from around 6am to 9pm. Combis (M$6) operate along Avenida México from 6am to midnight. There are also plenty of street taxis and a taxi stand opposite the cathedral.
Chacala
%327 / Pop 319
Despite its charm and beauty, the tiny coastal fishing village of Chacala has managed to retain its status as a somewhat-secret paradise. Located 96km north of Puerto Vallarta and 10km west of Las Varas on Hwy 200, it sits pretty along a beautiful little cove backed by verdant green slopes and edged by rugged black-rock formations at either end. With just one main, sandy thoroughfare and a few cobbled side streets, it’s an ideal place to unwind and contemplate the horizon.
1Sights
Altavista PetroglyphsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(Hwy 200–Altavista; M$20; h7am-4pm)
It’s a drive along a rough road off Hwy 200–Altavista, then a 1.5km walk up to this site; get good directions first, as it’s not signposted. The site is well stocked with petroglyphs, some geometrical, some depicting human figures. A path leads you past many carvings, with Spanish and English signs explaining them.
The visit ends in a glade with cascading water and rock pools for a dip. The site is somewhat difficult to find, but you can always hook up a tour with Xplore Chacala.
Activities
The sea provides most of the action here. Swimming in Chacala’s luscious bay is safe and tranquil most of the year. You can also hike to La Caleta; it’s a challenging but rewarding 3.5km walk through the jungle.
For small-boat excursions, ask at the Chacala Fishing Cooperative (%cell 327-1020683; trinimoya2@hotmail.com; whale-watching per person M$400, fishing & surfing per boat M$800; h7:30am-5:30pm), located at a dock at the northern tip of the shoreline. They run whale-watching and fishing trips as well as surfing expeditions to La Caleta – a prime spot where a wicked left-breaking point break thrashes the rocky beach. Xplore Chacala (%cell 327-1053504; www.xplorechacala.wixsite.com/mysite; Av Chacalilla s/n; bird-watching tour per hour M$100, petroglyphs tour per person M$350, surfboard rental per hour M$100; h9am-8pm Nov-Apr, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun May-Oct) rents out surfboards and paddleboards.
zFestivals & Events
Chacala Music & Arts FestivalCULTURAL
(%327-219-50-06; www.chacalamusicfestival.com; hMar)
A four-day festival celebrating music, dance, local art and regional cuisine with events held in beachfront restaurants and open-air spaces.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodations here range from the simple to the luxurious. Though there are over 50 choices, some need to be pre-booked and cater for multiday stays only.
For self-catering, Chacala Villas (%cell 327-1030065; www.chacalavillas.com; Av Chacalilla 3; h7:30am-9:30pm; n) offers a variety of rental housing with full kitchens, including the recommended Casa Mágica (%327-219-40-97; www.omcasamagica.blogspot.mx; Socorro 100; apt US$100-110; n).
oTechos de MéxicoHOMESTAY, GUESTHOUSE$
(www.techosdemexico.com; r M$400-600; n) S
Travelers interested in meeting locals should consider this organization that helps Chacala residents build good homes with adjacent guest units. Seven local families offer comfortable budget lodging through this program; check the website or look for the distinctive Techos signs as you pass through town.
Casa NormaGUESTHOUSE$
(%327-219-40-85; Golfo de México 15; r M$500-600; pna)
Just a minute’s walk from the beach, Casa Norma offers three tidy rooms with full kitchens; two of the accommodations sport large balconies affording partial ocean views. It makes for a quiet, comfortable stay, and the family running it is muy amable.
Casa de TortugasRENTAL HOUSE$$
(%cell 322-1464787; www.casadetortugas.com; Oceano Pacifico 4; d M$1300-1400, ste M$3700; naWs)
This walled red house overlooking the north end of the beach enjoys privileged views over the bay and offers three excellent rooms, a large family suite, a roof terrace and an infinity pool. Rooms have a microwave and coffee maker, and there’s a shared kitchen area. Must be prebooked: there’s no reception.
Hotel Mar de CoralHOTEL$$
(%327-219-41-09; www.facebook.com/mardecoralchacala; Av Chacalilla s/n; d M$1000, bungalows from M$1800; naWs)
Set in the center of town across the road from the beach, this incongruous modern building offers spacious tiled rooms with wooden beds and furnishings. What it calls bungalows are much larger rooms with an attached kitchen. There’s a pool in a shady courtyard lobby.
Around the corner, on Calle Canarias, sister property Mar de Coral Elite provides slightly more upscale accommodations with a sunny pool area.
Mar de JadeRESORT$$$
(%327-219-40-00, US 800-257-0532; www.mardejade.com; Mar de Jade 1; s/d incl full board from US$321/369; pnaWs)
This getaway at the far south end of Chacala’s beachfront hosts regular yoga, meditation and wellness retreats, but welcomes independent travelers too. Crashing waves are audible everywhere on the property, from the rooms with deep, tiled bathtubs, to the sauna, Jacuzzi and spa area, to the sprawling poolside patio where vegetarian-friendly buffet meals are served. Rates include yoga classes in winter.
Mauna KeaBREAKFAST$
(%327-219-40-67; www.casapacificachacala.com; Los Corchos 15; mains M$70-100; h8-11am Mon-Sat Nov-Apr; W)
Watch whales over morning coffee at this seasonal rooftop eatery on the bluffs just north of town (or get your breakfast free by staying at the attached B&B!).
QuezadaSEAFOOD$$
(%cell 327-1044373; Av Chacalilla s/n; grilled fish per kilo M$240; h9am-5:30pm)
Beachfront palapa (thatched-roof) restaurant Quezada grills pescado zarandeado (spiced, charcoal-grilled fish) to near perfection thanks to a delightful adobo (seasoned tomato-chili sauce) marinade that gets brushed on the whole fish during cooking. If they happen to have corbina as the day’s fresh catch, you’re in luck.
MajahuaINTERNATIONAL$$
(%327-219-40-53; www.majahua.com; Sur de la Bahia de Chacala s/n; mains M$95-190; hbreakfast 9-11am, lunch noon-4pm, dinner 5-8pm; W) S
Perched on a jungle-covered hillside overlooking the cove, this ecolodge’s terrace restaurant makes a glorious spot to greet the morning with a full breakfast, or to indulge in a romantic sunset dinner over cocktails and fresh seafood. Reserve ahead for dinner. Majahua also runs a seasonal beachside tapas bar (November through April).
8Getting There & Away
For Chacala, get off a Puerto Vallarta–Tepic bus at Las Varas and take a colectivo (M$15) for 11km from there: these leave every half-hour or so from directly across the road from the bus stop (look for the chairs on a corner outside a locksmith). A taxi into Chacala runs about M$120. If you’re driving, the Hwy 200 turnoff is 1km south of Las Varas.
San Francisco
%311 / Pop 1823
San Francisco, aka San Pancho, is another fishing pueblo turned vacation spot, with prettier beaches and a less obvious gringo footprint than you’ll find in popular Sayulita, a couple of beaches south. There’s less action here too, unless you count those real-life gauchos riding horses through the riverbed and along a gorgeous blond beach, long, wild and driftwood-strewn.
Avenida Tercer Mundo leads from Hwy 200 a couple of kilometers through town to the beach, where sidewalk restaurants serve the usual fish and ceviche dishes and cold beers.
2Activities
Las HuertasGOLF
(%311-258-45-21; www.lashuertasgolf.com; América Latina s/n; green fees 9 holes from M$420; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Las Huertas is a short but pretty par 32 nine-holer that will keep golfers happy for several hours.
TTours
Paseos a CaballoHORSEBACK RIDING
(%311-258-41-82; www.laselvasanpancho.com; Av Tercer Mundo 50; tour per hour M$350)
Hostal La Selva, near the town’s entrance, offers horseback tours on mountain trails and along the windswept beach.
WORTH A TRIP
LO DE MARCOS
There really isn’t much to do in the mellow fishing town of Lo de Marcos – that’s why Mexican vacationers and snowbirds like the place so much. Several seafood restaurants line the palm-fringed beach along with some decent oceanfront bungalows if you decide to spend the night. El Caracol Bungalows (%33-3684-3301; www.bungalowselcaracol.com; Camino a las Minitas Km 1.5, Playa Lo de Marcos; r US$80-102; pnaWs#), which doubles as a trailer park, provides comfortable rooms overlooking grassy grounds, and the staff can arrange boat trips to nearby islands (OK, so there are a few things to do). About 2km south of Lo de Marcos, you’ll find Playa Los Venados, a small cove accessible by a dirt road.
To reach Lo de Marcos, catch any northbound Compostela bus along Hwy 200. It’s 10km north of San Francisco.
4Sleeping
oRefugio de Sol & Hostal San PanchoHOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE$
(%311-258-41-61; www.hostalsanpancho.com; Av Tercer Mundo 12; dm M$250-300, d M$1000-1500; naW)
Kitted out with travelers’ needs in mind, this guesthouse-hostel is set around its surf shop near the highway. It offers super-clean, simple yet charming rooms and snazzier ‘suites’ (bigger rooms with an attractive design, better bathrooms and terrace). Ground-floor dorms and their outdoor bathroom are basic but comfy. Guesthouse stays include free breakfast served in an appealing common area upstairs.
There’s also free bike and skateboard use – handy to zip down to the beach, 1km away. It offers surfboard rental and classes too, as well as various tours.
Bungalows LydiaBUNGALOW$$$
(%311-258-43-37; www.bungalowslydia.com; Clavelinas 393; bungalows US$110-150; pnWs)
Overlooking two hidden beaches and surrounded by 2000 palm trees planted by the owners themselves, this restful cliffside haven is idyllic as it gets. Of the eight fan-cooled suites on offer, the ‘Sunset’ and ‘Panaroma’ provide the most stunning ocean views (as does an infinity pool at the cliff’s edge). A delightful saltwater pool awaits on the beach below.
Bungalows Lydia best suits independent-minded travelers with vehicles. There’s no on-site restaurant, but the suites have full kitchens. It’s 3km east of town along a dirt road.
5Eating & Drinking
Maria’sMEXICAN$
(%311-258-44-39; www.facebook.com/marias.restaurant.3; Av Tercer Mundo 28A; breakfast & lunch M$50-100, dinner M$110-240; h8:30am-3:30pm & 6pm-10:30pm Thu-Mon, 8:30am-3:30pm Tue; Wv)
San Pancho’s premier breakfast spot slings tasty Mexican faves such as huevos divorciados (fried eggs in red and green salsa) and it does North American dishes as well. The lunch and dinner menu offers plenty of vegetarian options and light fare including salads and fish tacos.
oBistro OrgánicoFUSION$$$
(%311-258-41-55; www.hotelcielorojo.com/english/bistro-organico-restaurant.html; Asia 6; mains M$215-240; hbreakfast 8:30am-2:30pm daily, dinner 6:30-10pm Fri-Sun Nov-Apr; Wv)
Tucked into a pretty plant-filled courtyard in Hotel Cielo Rojo (d incl breakfast US$150; naW), Bistro Orgánico is San Francisco’s surprisingly sophisticated top choice for eating. Chef Calixto cooks up fish and vegetarian food as imaginative as anything in LA or New York, using mostly local, organic produce. Breakfast stretches into the afternoon, and seasonal dinner service is best finished off with chocolate tequila truffles.
oLa FresonaBAR
(%cell 322-2315219; www.facebook.com/lafresonabeachclub; Av Tercer Mundo s/n; h11am-9pm Thu-Mon; #)
Get your groove on at this popular on-the-beach bar where DJs spin funky electronic music or live salsa acts take the stage. Even during the quieter afternoon hours it makes quite the scenic (albeit sceney) hangout spot to chill over micheladas (beer cocktails) and cocktails.
8Getting There & Away
There are direct international flights from the US and Canada to resort towns such as Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán, Acapulco and Zihuatanejo. For those traveling by car, the toll roads make for easy sailing, but are pricey. High-quality bus services connect the resort centers to inland Mexico.
Between towns, coastal Hwy 200 has had an up-and-down safety record, especially in the states of Michoacán and Guerrero, which still have a reputation for being unsafe at night.