Crochet shawls, wraps and throws are very satisfying projects to make – not only are you able to try out a range of different techniques and stitch patterns, but you also create a unique handmade accessory to wear with pride!
The projects in this book are great as statement accessories or cosy cover-ups, or simply for a flash of pick-me-up colour! What’s more, because these are all “one size” makes, they are ideal for any body shape, size, gender or age and also make ideal and thoughtful gifts for friends and family.
TIPS and HINTS
• Many of the patterns use multiple shades of yarns, in repeated motifs like the Pansies and Fuchsias geometric throw (page 18) or stripes like the Stash-buster Stripes (page 12). Colour changes will leave lots of yarn ends to weave in, which can be very time consuming, so try to weave in the ends as you work to make the process of finishing your project quicker and easier.
• Locking stitch markers make a great addition to your crochet tool kit and are used in a number of projects featured throughout this book including Paintbox Palette (page 34) and Navajo Sunrise (page 28). Placing a marker in a key stitch, such as the central “spine” of a shawl, or increase and shaping points, will help you to keep track of where you are in a row, or you can use them to indicate where buttons should be stitched. Remember to move the stitch marker up with each row or use two in tandem with one another. Safety pins can be used at a pinch, but mind they don’t snag or leave rust marks on your crochet fabric.
• Crochet shawls benefit hugely from blocking once complete; not only does blocking help the pieces to lay neatly and to the given measurements, it also opens up the stitches to really show off the pretty details of your hard work and gives a professional finish. You can block your finished make either with steam from the iron, or by soaking in lukewarm water and pinning into shape to dry. Remember to check the ball band of the yarn for specific details on washing the yarn, and take care when steaming acrylic and acrylic blend yarns as they can easily stretch out of shape – wet blocking will be a much better option. Cotton and silk yarns can be blocked firmly to encourage the fibres to sit neatly in place.
• Some of the projects in this book are quite large, for example the Yo-yo Throw (page 58) and By the Lake (page 114). The scale of these makes can initially be daunting, but breaking them down into sections of different stitch pattern repeats or colours will give you smaller goals to work towards – “I’ll just do one more section in yarn A” or “five more repeats of this two-row stitch pattern” and so on.
• It is very important, particularly for the larger single-colour projects, that you have enough yarn before starting. Buying all the required yarn in one go can be expensive but it will mean you have balls or skeins from the same dye lot. Different dye lots can vary slightly in colour and changes in dye lots partway through a project will be noticeable.
• Almost all the makes featured in this book can easily be sized up or down by working fewer or more repeats of the stitch patterns, or simply by selecting a finer or chunkier yarn and matching with the appropriate hook size. Making a project larger will of course require more yarn and it is also important to remember that triangular, granny square and inside-out circular shaped patterns grow in stitch counts as well as rows as the shape expands. Ensure you buy more yarn than you estimate so you don’t run out halfway through a row. It is also worth bearing in mind that certain stitches, such as the puff stitch featured in Emerald Puff (page 38) and Pretty in Pink (page 16) require a lot of yarn.
YARN
Crochet shawls can be made from almost any style, thickness, fibre and finish of yarn. Each will have different properties and lend itself to different looks for the finished piece. Chunky and super-chunky yarns create a denser fabric and make for wonderfully quick and cosy projects, whilst projects using lighter weight yarns might take slightly longer to complete, but will create finished designs with more drape and fluidity.
The patterns in this book showcase a range of effects and finishes you can achieve by using different weights, fibres and styles of yarn – you can even raid your yarn stash to create these makes, just be sure to check the details of the yarn weights, amounts and tension when substituting yarn.
A guide for the tension is given with each pattern, and whilst matching this given tension is not as paramount when making shawls as with more fitted garments, it is important to achieve a tension as close as possible to the one provided so your finished make has the same look, feel and sizing as shown in the photographs. Check your tension before starting the project and make adjustments by simply switching the size of the hook – if your tension is too tight and the stitches on your tension swatch are smaller than those recommended, try using a hook one size larger. Similarly, if your stitches are too large, switch to a hook one size smaller and rework the tension swatch. See page 120 for information on tension swatches.
Maintaining an even tension throughout your project is important for a neat and tidy finish as all the stitches will be of a similar size. This is particularly important for projects with feature stitches such as the puff stitch in Stash-buster Stripes (page 12) where even tension will create a series of uniform puff stitches throughout the shawl.
If you are working on a larger, more involved shawl such as Splash of Orange (page 96) and you want to take a break from it, be sure to make a note of the hook you have been using so that when you return to it you will be able to achieve the same, consistent tension.
EQUIPMENT
Crochet hooks: The patterns in this book indicate the size of hook to use with the yarn listed for the project. You can adjust these where necessary to accommodate yarn substitutions and to adjust your tension. How you hold your hook is a matter of preference – left-handed or right-handed, some like to hold their hook in a pencil-grip, while others prefer to hold it in their fist. There is no right or wrong way, as long as you are able to move your wrist freely and can comfortably work neat and even stitches. See page 118 in the techniques section for further guidance.
Crochet hooks used in the book:
| UK/Metric | US |
|---|---|
| 4mm | G/6 |
| 5mm | H/8 |
| 6mm | J/10 |
| 8mm | L/11 |
| 9mm | M/13 |
| 15 or 16mm | P/16 |
Tapestry and yarn needles: These are used to secure the ends of the yarn at the start and end of the project and also where changing colours. For heavier weight yarns, try using a split-eye needle or even a small crochet hook to secure in the ends neatly.
Sewing needle and thread: Handy to have for securing buttons and fastenings to finished makes.
Tape measure: Always useful for checking tension swatches and finished sizes when blocking.
Rust-proof pins: For holding your project in shape while it is being blocked.
