INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y

A

Aberlour: 155

Abertarff House (Inverness): 116

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Airport, in Kirkwall: 179

Air travel, resources: 199

Ambulance: 198

An Torr: 55, 57–58

Appin: 29

Applecross: 167

Applecross Road: 166–167

Archaeological sites: Clava Cairns, 130–131; Glencoe Valley, 56; Kilmartin Glen, 45–47; Orkney Islands, 183–188; Scottish Crannog Centre (Kenmore), 151–152; Skye, 99

Ardmair: 170

Ardvrech Castle: 170–171

Arisaig: 70

Armadale Castle: 103, 105

Aros Community Theatre (Portree): 83

Arrochar: 42

Atholl Country Life Museum (Pitlochry): 151

Atlantis Leisure Centre (Oban): 22

ATMs: 193–194

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 199

B

Baggage storage: Inverness, 109, 124; Oban, 18

Bagpipes: 116

Baile Gean: 150

Ballachulish: 29; eating, 62; sleeping, 61

Ballater: 160–162

Ballymeanoch: 47

Balmoral Castle: 158–160

Barnhouse Village: 185

Bars: See Pubs

Battle of Culloden: 125–130

Beaches: Ceannabeinne Beach, 172; Durness, 171; Iona, 38; Oban, 15; Scourie, 171

Bealach na Bà: 167

Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs): 196. See also specific destinations

Beer: 197. See also Pubs

Belladrum Tartan Heart Festival (Inverness): 109

Ben More (Mull): 33

Ben Nevis: 65

Biking (bike rentals): Glencoe, 51; Inverness, 109, 112; Oban, 18; Pitlochry, 141–142; Skye, 78

Birding: 39, 40, 41

Bishop’s Palace (Kirkwall): 181

“Black sheep”: 5

Blair Athol Distillery (Pitlochry): 143

Blair Castle: 150–151

Boat travel and cruises: Iona, 30–31; Loch Ness, 112, 135, 137; Mull, 30–31; Oban, 18–19, 29; Staffa, 32. See also Ferries

Bonnie Price Charlie: See Charles Edward Stuart

Bookstores: Inverness, 109; Oban, 15; Ullapool, 169

“Bouncy Bridge” (Inverness): 116

Braemar: 159

Broadford: 102; eating, 102

Bugs: 5

Burial Island: 49–50

Buses: 12–13, 198; Fort William, 66; Glencoe, 62–63; Inverness, 124; Oban, 18; Pitlochry, 148; Skye, 73, 76

C

Cabar Fèidh (Inverness): 116

Cairngorms National Park: 138, 148, 158–159

Caledonian Canal: 63–64, 68, 118, 136, 137

Caledonian Canal Centre: 136, 137

Car rentals: 76, 78, 197

Car travel (driving): 12, 197–198; Fort William, 67; Glasgow to Oban, 41–47; Glencoe Valley, 54–56; Inverness, 125; North Coast, 166–171; Oban, 29; Road to the Isles, 67–71; Skye, 73; Trotternish Peninsula, 89–96

Castles: Ardvrech Castle, 170–171; Armadale Castle, 103, 105; Balmoral Castle, 158–160; Blair Castle, 150–151; Cawdor Castle, 131–132; Dunnottar Castle, 162; Dunollie Castle, 21–22; Duntulm Castle, 94; Dunvegan Castle, 96–99; Eilean Donan Castle, 105–106, 166; Inveraray Castle, 43, 45; Inverness Castle, 114–115, 118; Mey Castle, 173; Taymouth Castle, 152; Urquhart Castle, 135

Castle Stalker: 29

Cawdor (village): 132

Cawdor Castle: 131–132

Ceannabeinne Beach: 172

Ceilidh dancing: Inverness, 109; Oban, 24

Ceilidh House (Skye): 94

Charles Edward Stuart (“Bonnie Price Charlie”): 3, 65, 67–70, 79, 95, 98, 102, 107, 118; Culloden Battlefield, 125–130

Church Street (Inverness): 115

Cinema, in Oban: 24

Clachaig Inn: 55, 60–61, 62

Clan Donald Center (Skye): 103, 105

Clava Cairns: 130–131

Coffin Cairn: 56

Colbost: eating, 88, 100

Columba, Saint: 35, 36, 116, 135, 153–154

Columba 1400 Centre (Skye): 93

Commando Memorial (Spean Bridge): 65–66, 67

Craigellachie: 155–156

Craigellachie Bridge: 156

Crathie Kirk (Ballater): 160

Credit cards: 193–194, 198

Crianlarich: 29, 49

Crofting: 94, 96

Cromwell, Oliver: 63, 162

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Cuillin Hills: 100–102

Culloden Battlefield: 125–130

Currency and exchange: 193–194

D

Debit cards: 193–194, 198

Deeside: 158–162

Devil’s Staircase: 56, 59

Dining: See Eating

Distilleries: See Whisky

Dochart Falls: 153

Downton Abbey (TV series): 43

Driving: See Car travel

Dufftown: 156–157

Duirinish Peninsula: 99

Dunadd: 46

Dunbar’s Hospital (Inverness): 116

Dun Beag Fort: 99

Duncansby Head Lighthouse: 174

Duncansby Stacks: 174

Dunchraigaig Cairn: 47

Dunkeld: 153–154

Dunnet: 173

Dunnet Head: 172–173

Dunnottar Castle: 162

Dunollie Castle and Museum: 21–22

Duntulm Castle: 94

Dunvegan: 96–99

Dunvegan Castle: 96–99

Durness: 171–172

Dynamic currency conversion: 194

E

Earl’s Palace (Kirkwall): 181

Easdale (Seil): 23

Eastern Scotland: 138–162; map, 139. See also specific destinations

Eating: 196–197. See also Supermarkets; specific destinations

Edradour Distillery (Pitlochry): 142–143, 144

Edradour Walk (Pitlochry): 143–144

Eilean Donan Castle: 105–106, 166

Elgol: 102

Emergencies: 198

Enchanted Forest (Pitlochry): 141

Etape Loch Ness bike race (Inverness): 109

Events: See Festivals

Explorers Garden (Pitlochry): 146

F

Fairy Flag: 97

Fairy Glen (Skye): 95–96

Fairy Pools (Skye): 100, 101–102

Falls of Dochart: 153

Ferries: Iona, 31; Kerrera, 22–23; Mull, 30–31, 33; Oban, 29, 30–31; Orkney Islands, 113, 178–179; Skye, 67–68, 70, 73; Staffa, 32

Ferry Road (Pitlochry): 144

Festivals: 199; Inverness, 109; Pitlochry, 141. See also Highland Games

Fingal’s Cave (Staffa): 39–41

Fionnphort (Mull): 33

Flodigarry Hotel: 93

Folk museums: 53, 94, 149–150, 151

Folk music: See Scottish folk music

Fort Augustus: 137

Fort William: 63–67; eating, 66; itineraries, 48; map, 50–51; sights, 64–66; sleeping, 66; tourist information, 64; transportation, 64, 66–67

G

Gaelic language: 4–5, 91, 114

Gair Loch: 168

Gairloch: 168

Gallanach: 22–23

Game of Thrones: 165

Giant Angus MacAskill Museum (Dunvegan): 99

Gills Bay: 173; ferry, 178–179

Glasgow: 41

Glebe Cairn: 47

Glen Aray: 45

Glenbrittle: 101

Glencoe: 49–63; eating, 62; itineraries, 48; map, 50–51; sights/activities, 52–59; sleeping, 60–61; tourist information, 50–51; transportation, 62–63

Glencoe Folk Museum: 53

Glencoe House: 57

Glencoe Lochan: 57

Glencoe Massacre (1692): 53

Glencoe Pass: 55–56, 58

Glencoe Ski Centre: 56

Glencoe Valley: 54–56; driving tour, 54–56; eating, 62; hiking, 56–59; map, 54–55; sleeping, 60–61

Glencoe Visitor Centre: 50–51, 53, 54–55

Glen Croe: 42

Glen Etive: 56

Glenfiddich Distillery (Dufftown): 156–157

Glenfinnan: 68–70

Glenfinnan Monument: 70

Glenfinnan Viaduct: 69–70

Glenlivet Distillery: 157–158

Golf: Cawdor, 132; Pitlochry, 145

Great Glen Fault: 136

Great Glen Way: 4, 118, 119

Groceries: See Supermarkets

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 199

H

Harry Potter sights: 52, 55, 70–71

Harry Potter train: 52, 70–71

Helpful hints: 198–199

Herring: 19–20, 77, 80

Hidden Valley: 56, 58

Highland Boundary Fault: 3, 42

Highland cattle: 5–6, 159

Highland Clearances: 91

Highland Folk Museum (Newtonmore): 149–150

Highland Games: 6, 10–11; Braemar, 160; Inverness, 109; Oban, 18; Pitlochry, 141; Skye, 82

Highland Park Distillery (Kirkwall): 181–182

Highlands: 3–162; hiking, overview, 4; itineraries, 6–9, 12; map, 8–9; overview, 3–6; tours,: from Inverness: 112–113; from Oban: 18–19; transportation, 12–13. See also specific destinations

High Street (Fort William): 64, 66

High Street (Inverness): 108, 115

High Street (Pitlochry): 144–145

Hiking (walking): 4; Ben Nevis, 65; Glencoe Valley, 56–59; Inverness, 118–119; Pitlochry, 141, 143–144; Skye, 83, 100, 101–102

Holidays: 199

Hootananny (Inverness): 116, 119, 123

Hostels: Glencoe, 61; Inverness, 122; Kirkwall, 182; Oban, 27; Portree, 85; Ullapool, 169

Hotels: 195–196. See also specific destinations

Hoy: 191

Hoy’s Old Man: 191

I

Inner Hebrides: 14–47, 72–106; map, 31; planning tips, 14–15. See also specific destinations

Inveraray: 45

Inveraray Castle: 43, 45

Inveraray Jail: 45

Inverewe Gardens: 168

Invermoriston: 136

Inverness: 4–5, 108–125; eating, 123–124; helpful hints, 108–109; itineraries, 107; maps, 110–111, 134; nightlife, 119–120; sights/activities, 117–119; sleeping, 120–122; tourist information, 108; tours, 109, 112–113; transportation, 124–125; walking tour, 114–117

Inverness Castle: 114–115, 118

Inverness City Hall: 115

Inverness Clock Tower: 114

Inverness Museum and Art Gallery: 117

Inverness Old High Church: 116–117

Inverness Shinty Club: 109, 118

Iona: 33–39; history of, 35; map, 37; sights/activities, 34–38; sleeping and eating, 38–39; tours, 30–31; transportation, 31–32, 34

Iona Abbey: 35–38

Iona Community’s Welcome Centre: 38

Iona Heritage Center: 34

Irish connection: 44

Island of Discussion: 50

Isle of Hoy: 191

Isle of Iona: 33–39; history of, 35; map, 37; sights/activities, 34–38; sleeping and eating, 38–39; tours, 30–31; transportation, 31–32, 34

Isle of Kerrera: 22–23

Isle of Lewis: 169

Isle of Mull: 33; map, 31; tours, 30–31; transportation, 31–32

Isle of Seil: 23

Isle of Skye: 72–106; feuding clans of, 104; itineraries, 73, 89; map, 74–75; sights, 89–106; tours, 76–77, 78; from Inverness: 112–113; transportation, 73, 76. See also Portree

Isle of Staffa: 39–41; map, 31; planning tips, 14–15; tours, 32; transportation, 32

Italian Chapel (Scapa Flow): 188–189

Itineraries: 6–9, 12; Fort William, 48; Glencoe, 48; Inner Hebrides, 14–15; Inverness, 107; Loch Ness, 107; Northern Scotland, 164; Orkney Islands, 175, 178

J

Jacobite Exhibit (Glenfinnan): 69

Jacobite Steam Train: 52, 70–71

John Muir Trust (Pitlochry): 145

John Muir Way: 4

John O’Groats: 173–174

K

Kenmore: 152–153

Kensaleyre: 96

Kerrera: 22–23

Kilmartin Glen: 45–47

Kilmartin Museum: 47

Kilt Rock (Skye): 92–93

Kincraig: 149

Kinlochewe: 168

Kinlochmore: 59

Kirkwall: 179–183; eating, 183; sights/activities, 180–182; sleeping, 182

Kirkwall Airport: 179

Knockan Crag: 170

Kyleakin: 102

Kyle of Durness: 171

Kyle of Lochalsh: 102–103, 166

Kyle of Tongue: 172

L

Language: See Gaelic language

Laundry: Inverness, 109; Oban, 18; Portree, 78

Lawn bowling: Oban, 22; Pitlochry, 145

Lealt Gorge: 92

Leault Working Sheepdogs: 148–149

Lennon, John: 171

Little Loch Broom: 168–169

Loch Achtriochtan: 55

Loch Assynt: 170–171

Loch Awe: 45

Loch Carron: 166

Loch Coruisk: 102

Loch Dunvegan: 96

Loch Eilt: 52

Loch Eriboll: 172

Loch Ewe: 168

Loch Fyne: 43

Lochgilphead: 45

Loch Glendhu: 171

Lochinver: 171

Loch Lomond: 42

Loch Long: 42

Loch Maree: 168

Loch Morar: 52

Loch nan Uamh: 70

Loch Ness: 133–137; cruises, 112, 135, 137; itineraries, 107; map, 134; tours, from Inverness, 112

Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition: 134–135

Loch Ness Marathon (Inverness): 109

Loch Ness monster: 133–135

Loch Shiel: 52, 69

Loch Tay: 151–153

Loch Torridon: 167–168

Lost (Hidden) Valley: 56, 58

Love Your Sweets (Pitlochry): 145

Luggage storage: See Baggage storage

M

McCaig’s Tower (Oban): 20

MacDonald, Flora: 79, 93, 94, 98, 118, 127; Monument, 95

MacDonalds clan: 103, 104, 105

MacDougall clan: 21

Mackenzie clan: 72, 104, 105

MacLeod clan: 94, 96–99, 104, 105

Maeshowe: 184

Mallaig: 67–68, 70, 73

Market, in Inverness: 115–116

Martin, George R.R.: 165

Mary, Queen of Scots: 127

Mary-Ann’s Cottage (Dunnet): 173

Meall House (Portree): 81–82

Medical help: 198

Mercat cross (Inverness), 115; (Kirkwall), 181; (Portree), 79

Metric system: 199

Mey Castle: 173

Midges: 5

Mobile phones: 194–195

Money: 193–194

Monty Python and the Holy Grail (movie): 49

Morriston Falls: 136

Movie theater, in Oban: 24

Muir, John: 145

Mull: 33; map, 31; tours, 30–31; transportation, 31–32

Munro, Hugh: 3–4

Munro Society: 4

Music: See Scottish folk music

N

Neist Point and Lighthouse: 99–100

Neptune’s Staircase: 68

Ness of Brodgar: 185–186

Ness River: 108, 117, 118–119

Nether Largie North Cairn: 47

Nether Largie South Cairn: 47

Nether Largie Standing Stones: 47

Nevis Range Mountain Experience: 65

Newtonmore, folk museum: 149–150

Nightlife: See Pubs

North Beach (Iona): 38

North Coast: 164–174

Northern Scotland: 163–192; itineraries, 164; map, 165. See also specific destinations

North Pier (Oban): 15, 19, 22

Nunnery Ruins (Iona): 34

O

Oban: 15–29; eating, 27–28; helpful hints, 15, 18; itineraries, 14–15; maps, 16–17, 31; nightlife, 23–24; sights/activities, 19–23; sleeping, 24–27; tourist information, 15; tours, 18–19; transportation, 28–29

Oban Esplanade: 15; sleeping, 25

Oban Lawn Bowling Club: 22

Oban War & Peace Museum: 21

Oban Whisky Distillery: 20–21

Old High Church (Inverness): 116–117

Old Man of Hoy: 191

Old Man of Storr (Skye): 83, 91

Orbital Recreational Track: 57

Orkney chairs: 187

Orkney Islands: 174–192; eating, 183; itineraries, 175, 178; map, 176–177; sights/activities, 183–192; sleeping, 182; tours, from Inverness, 113, 179; transportation, 178–179

Orkney Museum (Kirkwall): 181

Orkney Uncovered: 179

Outer Hebrides: 94, 95

Outlander (TV series): 49, 95, 130, 131, 150; guided tours, 109, 113

P

Packing list: 199

Passports: 198, 199

Pentland Firth: 174

Phones: 194–195

Picts: 44, 46, 117, 174, 183–184

Pitlochry: 139–148; eating, 147–148; helpful hints, 141–142; map, 140–141; sights/activities, 142–146; sleeping, 146–147; tourist information, 141; transportation, 148

Pitlochry Bowling Club: 145

Pitlochry Dam Visitors Centre: 145–146

Pitlochry Festival Theatre: 146

Pitlochry Golf Course: 145

Pitlochry Salmon Ladder: 140, 141, 145–146

Pitlochry Whisky Walk: 143–144

Planning tips: 6–9, 12

Polewe: 168

Police: 198

Portree: 77–88; eating, 86–88; helpful hints, 78; map, 81; nightlife, 83; sights/activities, 79–83; sleeping, 83–86; tourist information, 78

Portree Harbor: 79–81; eating, 87

Portree Medical Centre: 82

Pound, Scottish: 193–194

Prehistoric sites: See Archaeological sites

Prince’s Cairn: 70

Pubs: 196–197; Ballater, 161; Fort William, 66; Glencoe, 62; Inverness, 119, 120; Kirkwall, 183; Oban, 24; Pitlochry, 147–148; Seil, 23; Skye, 83

Puffins of Staffa: 39, 40, 41

Q

Quiraing, the: 93

R

Rannoch Moor: 56

Reader feedback: 199

Resources from Rick Steves: 199

Rest-and-Be-Thankful Pass: 42

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Ring of Brodgat: 186

River Lealt: 92

River Ness: 108, 117, 118–119

River Spey: 154, 155

River Tummel: 140, 145

Road to the Isles: 67–71

Robertsons of Pitlochry: 144–145

Rowling, J.K.: See Harry Potter sights

Royal Deeside: 158–162

Royal Hotel (Portree): 79

Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI): 80

S

Sabhal Mòr Ostaig: 105

St. Columba Cathedral (Dunkeld): 153–154

St. Magnus Cathedral (Kirkwall): 180–181

St. Margaret’s Hope: 190; ferry, 178–179

St. Oran’s Chapel (Iona): 34–35

Salmon ladder, in Pitlochry: 140, 141, 145–146

Scapa Flow: 188–191

Scorrybreac Path (Skye): 83

Scotch whisky: See Whisky

Scottish Crannog Centre (Kenmore): 151–152

Scottish folk music: Glencoe, 62; Inverness, 119; Oban, 23–24; Skye, 83

Scottish Highland Games: See Highland Games

Scottish Highlands: See Highlands; and specific destinations

Scourie: 171

Scrabster: 172; ferry, 178

Sea kayaking, in Oban: 19

Seil: 23

Shieldaig: 167

Shinty, in Inverness: 109, 118

Signal Rock: 55, 57–58

Skaill House: 187

Skara Brae: 186–187

Skye: 72–106; feuding clans of, 104; itineraries, 73, 89; map, 74–75; sights, 89–106; tours, 76–77, 78; from Inverness: 112–113; transportation, 73, 76. See also Portree

Skye Bridge: 67, 73, 102–103

Skye Ferry: 67–68, 70, 73

Skye Gathering Hall (Portree): 82

Skye Museum of Island Life: 94

Skyfall (movie): 49, 56

Sleat Peninsula: 103, 105

Sleep code: 195

Sleeping: 195–196. See also specific destinations

Sligachan: 101; eating, 88; sleeping, 86

Smartphones: 194–195

Smoo Cave: 171–172

Soccer: 80

Somerled Square (Portree): 79

Speyside Cooperage (Craigellachie): 155, 156

Speyside Whisky Trail: 154–158

Staffa: 39–41; map, 31; planning tips, 14–15; tours, 32; transportation, 32

Staffa Tours: 32

Staffin: 91, 92–93

Stob Mhic Mhartuin: 59

Stonehaven: 162

Stones of Stenness: 185

Storr’s Old Man (Skye): 83, 91

Strathaven Terrace (Oban), sleeping: 24–25

Strathcanaird: 170

Strathcarron: 166

Stromness: 191–192; ferry, 178

Study, the, hiking: 56, 58–59

Supermarkets: Ballater, 161; Iona, 34; Oban, 18; Pitlochry, 148

Superstitions: 5

Swimming, in Oban: 22

T

Talisker Distillery (Skye): 100

Tarbet: 42

Taymouth Castle: 152

Telephones: 194–195

Telford, Thomas: 67, 68, 79, 80, 101, 136, 156

Temple Wood Stone Circles: 47

Theater, in Pitlochry: 146

Theft alert: 198

Three Chimneys Restaurant (Colbost): 88, 100

Three Sisters: 56

Thurso: 172

Tigh-an-Truish (Seil): 23

Time zone: 198–199

Tip of Trotternish: 93–94

Tipping: 197

Torridon: 167–168

Tourist information: 199. See also specific destinations

Train travel: 12, 197; Fort William, 66; Inverness, 124; Oban, 28–29; Pitlochry, 148

Transportation: 197–198. See also specific destinations

Travel insurance: 199

Treshnish Island: 19

Trotternish Peninsula: 89–96; map, 90

Trotternish Ridge: 91

Tummel River: 140, 145

Tyndrum: 29

U

Uig: 93, 95

Ullapool: 169–170

Ulva: 32

Union Street (Inverness): 115

Urquhart Castle: 135

V

Valtos: 92

Victorian Market (Inverness): 115–116

Vikings: 35, 42, 117, 153, 172, 174–175, 181, 183–184, 187

Visitor information: 199. See also specific destinations

W

Walkers Shortbread (Arberlour): 155

Weather: 5

Wentworth Street (Portree): 79

West Coast Tours: 18, 30, 32

Wester Ross: 164–174

West Highland Museum (Fort William): 64–65

West Highland Railway Line: 70–71

West Highland Way: 4, 59

Whale watching: 18–19, 41

Whisky: 197; Aberlour, 155; Craigellachie, 155–156; Dufftown, 157; Glenfiddich, 156–157; Glenlivet, 157–158; Kirkwall, 181–182; Oban, 20–21; Pitlochry, 142–144; Skye, 100; Speyside Whisky Trail, 154–158

Whisky Museum (Dufftown): 157

Wi-Fi: 194–195

Wildlife tours: 18–19, 32, 41

World War I: 52, 79, 116, 144, 189, 190

World War II: 21, 65–66, 93, 116; Scapa Flow, 188–191

Y

Yesnaby: 187–188