POULTRY

There were plenty of game birds distributed throughout the African subcontinent when Van Riebeeck arrived, but chickens were introduced from Europe, as were domestic ducks and later, turkeys. It was the custom not to slaughter chickens until their laying days were over, so the meat had to have special treatment to make it tender and succulent. Long, slow cooking was the order of the day: pot roasts, braised dishes, stews and – once the Malays and Indians had introduced them – curries.

ROAST STUFFED CHICKEN

Seventy or so years ago, chicken, especially roast chicken, held pride of place as the main meal of the week: it was usually served on Sunday for lunch or dinner. The chickens were all free-range, which meant that the white breast meat, as well as the dark meat of the thighs and legs, was much more flavourful.

Roast Stuffed Chicken, served with roast potatoes, green beans and patty pans.

• 1.5–2 kg chicken, cleaned and trimmed
• Sage and Onion Stuffing (page 35)
• salt and milled pepper
• 30–45 ml margarine, butter, chicken fat or sunflower oil

1. Fill the chicken with the stuffing and close the openings with a skewer or thread. Truss the chicken, if desired, and place it on a grid, uncovered, in a deep roasting pan. Season with the salt and pepper, and rub the margarine, butter, chicken fat or oil all over the bird. Cover the bottom of the roasting pan with water. Roast at 200 °C for 30 minutes. Lower the temperature to 180 °C and continue roasting, basting occasionally, for another 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cover the roasting pan with foil if the chicken browns too much.
2. Serve with Giblet Gravy (page 36), roast potatoes and steamed vegetables.
3. VARIATIONS

• Fill a 4.5 kg turkey with a double quantity of Forcemeat stuffing (page 35) and proceed as in the recipe above, roasting for a total of 3–3¹⁄₂ hours at the same temperatures.
• Fill a 2 kg duck with Orange and Raisin Stuffing (page 35) and proceed as above, roasting for a total of 2 hours at the same temperatures.

Stuffings and farces

Nowadays most stuffings are based on herbs, onions and breadcrumbs, but the early colonists made use of what was available, for example dried apricots, peaches and prunes, or vegetables like green mealies. They also gathered wild edible mushrooms to use in stuffings.

Serves 4–6

FORCEMEAT STUFFING

This stuffing is traditionally used for turkey, but it is excellent with chicken as well.

• 500 g pork or beef sausage meat
• 100 g streaky bacon, shredded
• 125 ml fresh white breadcrumbs
• 15 ml chopped fresh parsley
• 1 large egg
• pinch of dried mixed herbs
• salt and milled pepper

1. Mix all the ingredients well in a bowl.

Makes enough for a 1.5 kg chicken

SAGE AND ONION STUFFING

Shredded suet or beef fat and egg are the binding agents in this traditional stuffing for chicken or lamb.

• 500 ml fresh white breadcrumbs
• 60 g prepared shredded suet
• 2 ml each salt and milled pepper
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 15 ml finely chopped fresh sage
• 1 large egg
• 15 ml milk

1. Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, salt and pepper. Blanch the onion in boiling water for 2–3 minutes, then drain well and stir into the breadcrumb mixture. Stir in the sage. Beat the egg and milk together, add to the dry ingredients and mix well.

Makes enough to stuff a 1.5–2 kg chicken or 2 kg leg of lamb

ORANGE AND RAISIN STUFFING

The flavour of oranges goes particularly well with duck and also helps to tenderize the flesh of game birds like Muscovy duck (see Pot-roast Muscovy Duck, page 64).

• 500 g fresh white breadcrumbs
• 2 ml each salt and milled pepper
• finely grated rind of 1 small lemon juice and finely grated rind of 1 orange
• 25 ml cubed butter or margarine
• 100 ml seedless raisins
• 20 ml finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 large egg, beaten

1. Combine the breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, lemon and orange rind. Rub in the butter or margarine until crumbly, then stir in the raisins and parsley. Add the orange juice and egg and mix well to bind.

Makes enough for a 2 kg duck or Muscovy duck

ALMOND STUFFING

The Dutch brought recipes for sweet and savoury stuffings to the Cape with them. Almond stuffing was used for poultry.

• 3 large eggs, separated
• 250 ml thick cream
• pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 100 g ground almonds
• 180 g dried breadcrumbs
• 60 ml diced butter

1. Mix the egg yolks with the cream and nutmeg until well combined. Mix the ground almonds with a little of the egg white and stir the mixture into the egg yolk mixture. Stir in the breadcrumbs and diced butter. Add the stiffly beaten egg whites. Beat the mixture until smooth and fairly stiff.

Makes enough for a 1.5–2 kg chicken

GIBLET GRAVY

• chicken giblets
• salted water
• dripping from roast
• 60 ml cake flour
• 15 ml chopped fresh parsley
• 5 ml salt
• 2 ml milled pepper

1. Boil the neck, gizzard and heart in salted water until tender, about 2 hours. Add the liver and boil for a further 15 minutes. Drain off the stock and make it up to 500 ml with water. Dice the meat, discarding the gristle and bone. Heat the dripping in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook until foamy. Gradually stir in the stock and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, or until the gravy thickens. Stir in the diced giblets and parsley, season with salt and pepper and serve.

Makes about 500 ml

BREAD SAUCE

This classic sauce was introduced by the British, who served it primarily with Roast Beef (page 42). It also makes an aromatic accompaniment to chicken.

• 1 medium onion
• 4 whole cloves
• 100 ml milk
• 250 ml fresh white breadcrumbs
• salt and milled pepper
• pinch of ground mace
• 30 ml butter
• 15 ml cream

1. Peel the onion and stud with cloves. Place it in a saucepan with the milk and bring slowly to the boil. Place the breadcrumbs in a small dish and pour the milk over. Add the onion. Season with the salt, pepper and mace, then stir in the butter and cream. Place in the coolest part of the oven while roasting the meat and leave for 15 minutes. Remove the onion and serve.
2. VARIATION Place the breadcrumbs in a small saucepan with the onion and cloves, and add the milk. Simmer very slowly over low heat for 15 minutes, then add the remaining ingredients.

OLD-FASHIONED CHICKEN PIES

These pies, with their delectable pastry, held centre stage as part of the Christmas celebrations in the 17th and 18th centuries. Quick Flaky Pastry (page 100) is very quick to make, and the result is delicious.

• 2 kg chicken, cut into portions
• 6 allspice berries
• 6 peppercorns
• 3 whole cloves
• 6 blades mace
• 2 medium onions, sliced
• 10 ml salt
• 200 ml Chicken Stock (page 11)
• 30 ml sago
• 150 ml dry white wine
• 1 egg yolk
• 10 ml lemon juice
• 250 g Quick Flaky Pastry (page 100) or Puff Pastry (page 100)
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and sliced
• 1 egg yolk mixed with a little milk

1. First make the filling. Stew the chicken pieces with the allspice berries, peppercorns, cloves, mace, onions, salt and stock until tender. Remove the spices and bones, and cut the meat into smaller pieces. Soak the sago in water until soft and add to the chicken. Add the wine and simmer until the sago is transparent. Stir in the egg yolk and lemon juice. Remove from the stove and cool slightly. Roll out the pastry and use to line 6 small pie dishes. Spoon in the chicken filling and place a few slices of hard-boiled egg on top. Cover with the remaining Flaky Pastry, crimping the pastry edges together. Make slits in the top of the pastry, brush with the egg yolk mixture and bake the pies at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes, or until golden. Serve with Yellow Rice with Raisins (page 72) and chutney of your choice.
2. VARIATION Bake 1 large chicken pie instead of 6 small ones. (The pies can also be served cold.)

Serves 6

BRAISED DUCK WITH DRIED FRUIT

The combination of savoury and sweet flavours in one dish is peculiarly South African, and the idea was probably a legacy of the Malay cooks whom the Dutch at the Cape employed because of their flair for food, of which this recipe is a good example.

Braised Duck with Dried Fruit is a dish that successfully combines sweet and savoury flavours.

• 1.75–2 kg duck
• 10 ml salt
• 2 ml white pepper
• 5 ml chopped fresh mixed herbs
• 50 ml sunflower oil
• 150 ml apple juice
• 100 ml Chicken Stock (page 11)
• 250 g mixed dried fruit, soaked in water until plump
• 10 ml cake flour or cornflour
• 20 ml cold water

1. Wipe and trim the duck and cut it into portions. Season the duck with salt, pepper and herbs. Heat the oil in a deep, ovenproof casserole on top of the stove and brown the duck for 10 minutes. Add the apple juice and stock. Braise for 1 hour in the oven at 180 °C, then add the dried fruit and braise for a further 15 minutes. Transfer the duck and fruit to a deep dish while making the gravy. Mix the flour or cornflour and water to a paste and stir it into the pan juices. Heat the gravy, stirring, for 5 minutes on top of the stove and serve with the meat.

Serves 4–6

CHICKEN BREYANI

Chicken Breyani was introduced to South Africa by the Indians.

• 200 ml sunflower oil
• 12 medium onions, finely chopped
• 12 medium potatoes, cubed
• 600 g uncooked rice
• 250 ml red lentils, soaked and drained
• 10 ml salt
• 2 × 1.5 kg chickens, cut into portions
• 15 ml ground coriander
• 5 ml saffron or 10 ml turmeric
• 2 sticks cinnamon
• 4 bay or lemon leaves
• 10 cardamom seeds
• 5 ml cumin seeds
• 15 ml finely chopped chillies
• 3 tomatoes, skinned and chopped
• 125 ml lemon juice
• few black peppercorns
• 8 cloves garlic
• 500 ml natural yoghurt
• 2 pieces root ginger, crushed
• 8 hard-boiled eggs, thinly sliced

1. Heat a little of the oil in a frying pan and sauté the onions for 5 minutes, or until transparent. Remove and set aside. Add the rest of the oil and the potatoes to the pan and sauté for about 8 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove, drain on absorbent paper and set aside. Boil the rice in salted boiling water for 15 minutes, or until almost tender but still firm. Add more salt if necessary. Boil the lentils in salted water for 5 minutes, then drain. Combine the rice, lentils and a quarter of the fried onions. Rub the salt into the chicken pieces and place them in a large mixing bowl. Combine the coriander, saffron or turmeric, cinnamon, bay or lemon leaves, cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, chillies, tomatoes, lemon juice, peppercorns, remaining fried onion, garlic, yoghurt and ginger in a bowl. Pour over the chicken and leave for 30 minutes. Invert a large, heavy dinner plate in a large saucepan, covering the base completely. Arrange the ingredients on top in the following order: half the browned potatoes, sprinkled with 5 ml oil, chicken and marinade, eggs, rice and lentil mixture, remaining potatoes, remaining oil sprinkled over. Close the saucepan tightly and simmer, without stirring, for 1¹⁄₂ hours. Serve with sambals (see recipes on pages 76 and 77) of your choice.
2. NOTE Breyani mix, available from supermarkets or specialist spice shops, may be used instead of mixing the individual spices.

Serves 10

CHICKEN CURRY

This is based on an old Cape recipe, which used tamarind water instead of vinegar.

• 1.5–2 kg chicken
• 10 ml salt
• 2 ml milled pepper
• 200 ml dry white wine
• 125 ml water
• 25 ml margarine, butter or chicken fat
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 25 ml vinegar
• 1 large tart green apple, peeled, cored and grated
• 20 ml curry powder
• 10 ml sugar
• 15 ml lemon juice
• 15 ml cake flour

1. Cut the chicken into portions and season with salt and pepper. Place in a large saucepan, add the wine and water and simmer, covered, for 1–1¹⁄₂ hours, or until tender. Heat the margarine, butter or chicken fat in a frying pan and sauté the onion until transparent. Mix the vinegar, apple, curry powder and sugar, and add to the onion. Stir over moderate heat for 1–2 minutes, then add to the chicken. Bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Mix the lemon juice and flour to a paste and stir into the chicken. Simmer for 5 minutes, then serve with rice topped with toasted flaked almonds and accompanied by sambals (see recipes on pages 76 and 77) of your choice.
2. MICROWAVE OVEN Use the microwave oven to par-cook the chicken. Microwave at 100 per cent power for 6–7 minutes per 500 g. Transfer to a large saucepan, add the wine and water, and continue as described in the recipe above.

Serves 6

MALAY BRAISED CHICKEN

• 1.5 kg chicken, cut into portions
• 125 ml sunflower oil
• 2 potatoes, quartered
• 2 medium onions, finely chopped
• 200 ml water

MASALA

• 5 cloves garlic
• 1 piece root ginger
• 7 ml salt
• 5 ml crushed chillies
• 5 ml ground cumin
• 10 ml leaf masala
• 5 ml ground cloves
• 30 ml lemon juice
• 10 ml peri-peri sauce

1. First prepare the masala. Place the garlic, ginger and salt in a food processor or blender and process to a paste. Add the chillies, cumin, masala, cloves, lemon juice and peri-peri sauce and mix to a paste. Rub the mixture into the chicken portions and set them aside. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and sauté the potatoes for approximately 5 minutes on each side. Remove the potatoes from the oil, drain and set aside. Add the onions to the oil and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until they are transparent. Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally, for approximately 15 minutes, or until it is well browned. Add the 200 ml water and cook for a further 10 minutes over moderate heat. Add the potatoes to the chicken mixture and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Serve with Yellow Rice with Raisins (page 72) and Mango Atjar (page 136).

Chicken for the pot

These days, the chickens available in supermarkets are fairly young – we can even buy very young poussins – so the flesh is tender and perfect for roasting in the oven or for grilling. The early colonists, however, tended to keep chickens until their laying days were over before cooking them, which meant that the flesh was too tough for a succulent roast. Such mature birds required long slow cooking, so braising and stewing were the favoured preparation methods.

Serves 6–8