Page numbers refer to the print edition but are hyperlinked to the appropriate location in the e-book.
Italicized page numbers refer to recipes, and plate refers to an illustration in the photo gallery.
abundance: American empire and, ix–x, 3, 31–38, 187; cheap labor and, 181; Communism and socialism and, x, 36, 38, 41; democracy and, x, 3, 23–24, 28, 36–38, 43, 103
African Americans: Chinese restaurants and, 3, 103, 107–111, 134, 147, 226n.8, plate; in domestic service, 39, 42, 52, 56–59; racial stereotypes and discrimination against, 83, 107, 183, 220n.34
Ah Sing (John Nipson), 63
Alcoholic Republic, The (Rorabaugh), 243n.5
All-Consuming Century, An (Cross), 197n.41
all-you-can-eat buffet, 120, 179, plate
American Cookery (Simmons), 39, 160
American Home Economics Association, 186
American Mail Line (steamship company), 89
American Woman’s Home, The (Stowe and Beecher), 132, 160, 190n.1
Asian Traditional Food Act (2006), 151
Atoy (immigrant woman), 76
Aunt Jemima (food brand and logo), 237n.49
“‘Authentic’ Chinese Food” (Lo), 233n.2
banh chung and banh tet (Vietnamese pork and green bean rice cakes), 151
Been Hong (restaurant; New York), 124
Beijing (Peking), cooking style of, 164, 165
Betty Crocker (food brand and logo), 163
“Big Steamers” (Kipling), 25–26
Bonds of Womanhood, The (Cott), 200n.91
Borthwick, John David, 54, 82
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, The (Farmer), 132, 159
Boston Globe Cookbook for Brides, The, 160
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 85, 167
California Beef Noodle King U.S.A. (restaurant chain), 178–179
California beef noodles (jiazhou niu rou mian), 178–179
Cambridge World History of Food, The (Kiple and Ornelas), 245n.24
Canton, cooking style of, 164
Canton Low (restaurant; Portland, Maine), 106
Canton Restaurant (San Francisco), 74
Cattle on the Conejo (Russell), 53
Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI), 150
Changle County (Fujian Province), 221n.45
Chen Benchang (Ben John Chen), 9, 12
Cheng Du Tian Fu (Heavenly City of Chengdu; food stall; Flushing, N.Y.), plate
Chi Ock (restaurant; Ardmore, Okla.), 129
China: calendar system of, 168; Cultural Revolution in, xi, xiv, 33, 153; economy of, 7, 174–175, 179–181; empire of, 26, 29
Chinatown Declared a Nuisance (Workingmen’s Party of California), 85
Chinese and English Phrase Book (Lanctot), 66–67
Chinese and English Phrase Book in the Canton Dialect, A (Stedman and Lee), 67–68, 209n.127
Chinese Cook Book, The (Chan), 167
Chinese Cook Book, The (Hong), 154
Chinese Cookbooks (Newman), 234n.3
Chinese Cookery in the Home Kitchen (Nolton), 143, 167
Chinese–English Comprehensive Cookbook (Hua Ying Chu Shu Da Quan; Cui Tongyue), 65–66, 68
Chinese Equal Rights League, 120
Chinese food and food preparation: authenticity and, 6, 89, 98, 139–147, 184; Chinese-American food and, 15–20, 125–126, 135–138, 152, 178–179, 181; convenience and affordability of, 126–135, 147–152, 165–166; cookbooks for, 6, 12, 154–172; as empire food, 22–24; Jews and, xi, 134–135, 161, 184; meat scarcity in, 32–34; national identity and, xi–xii, 2, 88, 168, 170–172, 181; nutritional and health value of, 150, 157–158, 165–166; odor of, 2, 82–87, 113–114, 145, 175; origins of, 239n.71; popularity of, 1–20, 185; quality of, 2, 11–14, 126–135, 140, 147–152, 184, plate; racial prejudice and, 10, 46–47, 86–89, 150; regional styles of, 164–166, 178; tourism and, 99. See also cookbooks; recipes
Chinese immigrants: history of immigration of, ix, 23, 30, 96, 165, 179, 191n.18; living and working conditions of, 1, 3, 10, 62–63; political and cultural activity of, 75, 120, 172, 174; racial prejudice and, 20, 50, 59–63, 72, 75–76, 95–96, 108, 177; service and domestic work by, 2, 44–70, 77–79, 81, 95, 186; Western food and, 12, 68–69, 87–90, plate
Chinese Inn (restaurant; New Orleans), plate
Chinese–Japanese Cook Book (Bosse and Watanna), 162
Chinese Kosher Cooking (Goldberg), 138, 145
Chinese-language recipe and phrase books, 65–69, plate
“Chinese Reception in San Francisco” (Frenzeny), plate
Chinese restaurants: affordability and convenience of, 4, 23, 100, 127–129, 149, 184; cleanliness of, 16, 124–125, 159; community and social role of, 4, 72, 73–74, 90–91; dining-out experience and, 3, 100–101, 117, 145; expansion of, 1–6, 8–10, 21, 73–74; menus of, 146, 179, plates; non-Chinese customer base of, xi, 3, 102–119, 134, 147, 184, 226n.8, plate; promotional innovations of, 4, 119–125, 129, 135–138, 179, plate; racial prejudice and, 74, 76, 91–100, 103–104, 118, 135, 140; as tourist attractions, 99–101; Western food and, 135–136. See also specific restaurants
Chinese Six Companies (Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association), 122
chop suey: in cookbooks and recipes, 98, 164; development and authenticity of, 98, 139–147; popularity and affordability of, 4–6, 24, 115, 126–135, 146, 179
Chun King (food brand), 140, 163
“Citizen–Consumer Hybrid” (Johnston), 197n.41
Classic Chinese Cook Book, The (Leung), 170
Cobbold, Robert Henry, 48
“Compiled Cookbook as Foodways Autobiography, The” (Ireland), 235n.14
Concept of Work, The (Applebaum), 201n.99
Connors, George Washington (Chuck), 97
Cooking of China, The (Hahn), 164
Cost of Food, The (Richards), 186–187
Cradle of the Middle Class (Ryan), 200n.91
Croly, Jane Cunningham, 155
Cui Hao Shi Jing (Cui Hao’s Culinary Classics), 156
Cuisine and Culture (Civitello), 245n.24
Cuisine and Empire (Laudan), 245n.24
da pai dang (cooked-food stalls), 177, plate
democracy: abundance and, x, 3, 23–24, 28, 30, 36–38, 43, 103; consumerism and, 197n.41; dining-out experience and, 1, 3; racial prejudice, equality, and, 43, 103
Democracy in America (Tocqueville), 32
Democratic Party (Calif.), 96
Destination Earth (promotional cartoon; 1956), 36
Dining in America (Grover), 243n.5
Dinner Roles (Inness), 183
domesticity, cult of (Victorian), 38
Drinking in America (Lender and Kirby), 243n.5
Early American Table, The (Eden), 243n.5
Eat Drink Man Woman (film; 1994), 245n.25
Eating History (Smith), 243n.5
Eating in America (Root and de Rochemont), 243n.5
Edible History of Humanity, An (Standage), 245n.24
empire, concept of, 24–26. See also specific countries
English–Chinese Phrase Book, An (“Wong Sam”), 67
Eradicating Plague from San Francisco (Todd), 19–20
Ethnic and Regional Foodways in the United States (Brown and Mussell), 183
“Ethnic Succession and the New American Restaurant Cuisine” (Ray), 192n.35
Far East Restaurant (Washington, D.C), 129
Fast Food Nation (Schlosser), 150
Favorite Dim Sum (Haggerty), 238n.63
Feng, Doreen Yen Hung, 141, 169
Food (Flandrin and Montanari), 245n.24
“Food, Culinary Identity, and Transnational Culture” (Liu and Lin), 193n.41
“Food, Race, and Ethnicity” (Chen), 183
Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 140
food and food preparation: American attitudes toward, 38–41, 131–134, 155–156, 159–160, 169, 186; national and cultural identity and, 72, 85–86, 88, 152, 161, 173–177, 181, 187; sensuality of, 185, 186; study of, 154–161, 182–187. See also specific nationalities
“Food Habits of Nineteenth-Century California Chinese” (Spier), 215n.108
Food in History (Tannahill), 245n.24
Fortune Cookie Chronicles, The (Lee), 184
“four freedoms” (Roosevelt), 37
From Betty Crocker to Feminist Food Studies (Avakian and Haber), 243n.8
From Boarding House to Bistro (Pillsbury), 243n.6
“From Culinary Other to Mainstream America” (Bentley), 244n.17
Frontier in American History, The (Turner), 199n.78
frontier thesis (Turner), 36
Galbraith, John Kenneth, 28, 187
General Tso’s dishes, 147
Gilmore Girls (television show; 2000–2007), 114
Gleason’s Pictorial Drawing-Room Companion (magazine), 16
Glickman, Lawrence B., 29
globalization and transnationalization, 14–15, 20, 184
Golden Bowl Chop Suey (restaurant; Detroit), 110, plate
Good Housekeeping (magazine), 40, 49, 160
Great Depression (1930s), 37
Great Wall (restaurant; Detroit), 110
Green Max (Ma Yu Shan) Black Sesame Cereal, 180
Haley, Andrew P., 42, 103
Hamilton, Alexander (doctor), 39
Hamilton, Clara E., 47, 51
Han, cooking style of, 159
Have You Eaten Yet? (exhibition; Museum of Chinese in America, New York), plate
Hell’s Canyon Gorge massacre (Ore., 1887), 95
Henry Yee’s Forbidden City (restaurant; Detroit), 109
Higginson, Francis, 31–32
Hildebrand, George H., 30
“Home Cooking” (Theophano), 233n.2
home delivery and takeout, 4, 119, plate
Hong Far Low (restaurant; Boston), 81
Hong Fer Low (restaurant; Portland, Ore.), 80–81
Hong Fer Low (restaurant; San Francisco), 81, 121, 123, 131
Hong Ping Lo (restaurant; New York), 134
How America Eats (Wallach), 243n.7
How to Cook and Eat in Chinese (Chao), 154, 164, 233n.2, plate
Hua Qiao Nian Bao (Annals of the Overseas Chinese), 9
Hua Ying Chu Shu Da Quan (Chinese–English Comprehensive Cookbook; Cui Tongyue), 65–66, 68, 166
I Hate to Cook Book (Bracken), 40
Immigration and Nationality Act (1965), 7
“In Defense of Consumer Critique” (Schor), 197n.41
“In Search of Baltimore’s Chinatown” (University of Maryland School of Law class project), 228n.57
Indian immigrants, 56, 58
Invention of the Restaurant (Spang), 210n.16
Japanese immigrants, 56, 58
Jennie June’s American Cookery Book (Croly), 155
Jolly Chan’s Chinese Food & Donuts (San Francisco), 179
Joy Yong Chinese and American Restaurant (Boston), 136
Joy Young (restaurant; New York), 137
Kander, Lizzie Black, 113, 160
Khrushchev, Nikita, xi, 29
Kipling, Joseph Rudyard, 25–26
Kitchen Culture in America (Inness), 183, 243n.8
kitchens: in America, x–xi, 29, 39–41, 87; in China, 153; in Chinese restaurants, 4, 124–125; work in, 40, 48, 60, 67, 135, 202n.110. See also domestic service
Kong-sung’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 72–73
Kung Pao (Gongbao) Chicken, 115
Kwang Chang Ling (Alexander del Mar), 205n.42
La Choy (food brand), 140, 163
Law family (St. Louis), 109
Leong-Salobir, Cecilia, 23
Li Hung Chang (Li Hongzhang), 88
“Limitations of Karl Marx’s Social Economics” (Lutz), 201n.101
Little Sheep (restaurant chain), 178, 179
Looking Backward (Bellamy), 39, 41
Lorne, Marquis of (John Campbell), 97
Los Angeles, anti-Chinese riot in (1871), 95
Louisiana Purchase (1803), 31
Lu Shi Chun Qiu (Spring and Autumn Annals; Lu Buwei), 239n.71
Lun Far (restaurant; New York), 136
Macoa and Woosung Restaurant (San Francisco), 74
Maier, Charles S., 24, 94
Manchus, cooking style of, 159
Mandarin Café (San Francisco), 136
Mandarin Chop Suey Cook Book (Pacific Trading Company), 164
Mann Fang Lowe (restaurant; New York), 133
Mao (Chang and Holiday), 29
Mary Sia’s Chinese Cookbook (Sia), 171
McDonaldization of Society, The (Ritzer), 149
McDonald’s: popularity of, 2, 22–23, 27, 101, 175–176, 178; social and cultural role of, 144, 145, 149–150, 152
mei cai (preserved vegetables), 5
Mengzi-Liang Hui Wang (Mencius), 202n.110
middle class: dining-out experience and, 42, 103–104, 117, 145; domestic servant use by, 49–51, 54–55, 61, 63, 66–67; emergence and growth of, 30, 38–39; food preparation and, 38–41; tourism and, 94, 99
Middle Kingdom, The (Williams), 14–15, 86
Miller and Lux (cattle-ranching company), 50
Mongolia, dishes of, 6, 146
Morrison School (San Francisco), 75
Mr. Lee (restaurant chain; China), 178–179, plate
My Favorite Year (film; 1982), 114
Nankin American and Chinese Restaurant (Philadelphia), 135
Nanking Cafe (San Diego), plate
Near a Thousand Tables (Fernández-Armesto), 245n.24
New England Kitchen (demonstration kitchen), 186
New-England’s Plantation (Higginson), 31–32
New Food King (restaurant; Brooklyn, N.Y.), 18
New Jewish Cook Book, The (Dean), 113
New Life Chop Suey (restaurant; Detroit), 109
New Republic (restaurant; Philadelphia), 135
New Shanghai Café (San Francisco), 120
“New York Jews and Chinese Food” (Tuchman and Levine), 203n.18
Nipson, John (Ah Sing), 63
No Foreign Food (Pillsbury), 243n.6
No Tickee, No Washee (film; 1915), 67
No Tickee No Shirtee (film; 1921), 67
Ocean Buffet (Brooklyn Center, Minn.), plate
Old Dragon (restaurant; San Francisco), 129
Old Fashioned Method of Cantonese Chinese Cooking (Tom), 154
Olive Street (St. Louis), 109
open-air (outdoor) dining, 120
Opie, Frederick Douglass, 183
Oregon Constitution (1857), 76
Orient (restaurant; Washington, D.C.), 135
Oriental (newspaper), 121
Oriental Café (Baltimore), 138
Pacific Passage (Cohen), 14
Pacific Trading Company, 164
Panama-Pacific International Exposition (San Francisco, 1915), 218n.30
Panda Drive (restaurant; Huntington Beach, Calif.), 102, plate
Panda Express (restaurant chain; California), plate
Paradise (restaurant; Asheville, N.C.), 113
Paradise Chop Suey (restaurant; Detroit), 110
Pearl Buck’s Oriental Cookbook (Buck and Engel), 237n.46
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), 149
People v. Hall (1854), 76
Pictures of the Chinese (Cobbold), 48
Pollock, Syd and Alan, 110
Pow Hay Se (Pao Xi Shi; emperor), 167–168
“Present and Past of Chinese Restaurants in New York, The” (Tiexin), 57
preserved vegetables (mei cai), 5
Puritan Christianity, 186
Qi Min Yao Shu (Critical Techniques for the Welfare of the People; Jia Sixie), 235n.17
Qing Bai Lei Chao (Qing Unofficial History Categorized Extracts; Xu Ke), 194n.57
Quanjude Roast Duck (restaurant group; Taiwan), 179
race and racial prejudice: African Americans and, 83, 107, 183, 220n.34; American empire, consumer culture, and, 22, 30, 37, 39, 163; Chinese food and, 86, 150, 163, 171; Chinese immigrants and, 20, 50, 59–63, 72, 75–76, 95–96, 108, 177–178; Chinese restaurants and, 74, 76, 91–100, 103–104, 107–108, 135, 140; Chinese struggle against, 120–121, 172; domestic and service work and, 39, 42, 46, 67–68; Irish immigrants and, 118; Jews and, 117–119; language and, 61, 67; odor and, 83–85, 124; studies of, 183
railroads, development of, 34
Ranch Market (Irvine, Calif.), plate
recipes, 156; Ah Quin’s Western food recipes, plate; “Fish” Eggplant, 34; Fried Rice, 17; Gumbo, 64; Kung Pao (Gongbao) Chicken, 115; Marbled (Tea) Eggs, 166; Moon Cakes, 180; Pork Chop Suey, 98; Risotto with Sheep-Belly Mushrooms, 148; Steamed Fish, 79; Steamed Savory Pork Belly with Preserved Vegetables, 5
Recipes for Reading (Bower), 236n.39
Republic, Not an Empire, A (Buchanan), 196n.27
restaurant, concept of, 74
Revolution at the Table (Levenstein), 190n.1
Revolution in Eating, A (McWilliams), 243n.5
Risotto with Sheep-Belly Mushrooms, 148
Rochester Hadassah Cook Book, 113
Rock Springs massacre (Wyo., 1885), 95
Roth, William P. and Lurline Matson, 60, 63
Sai Wo Ap (Western Lake Duck), 138
Sam Kee (restaurant; Waco, Tex.), 129
Schwarzenegger, Arnold, 151
Scratches on Our Minds (Isaacs), 220n.34
Secret Ingredients (Inness), 183, 184
“Settlement” Cook Book, The (Kander), 113, 160
Shanghai Low (restaurant; San Francisco), 120, 136, plate
Shanghai Village (restaurant; Denver), 136
sheep-belly (morel) mushrooms, 148
Shi Xian Hong Mi (The Grand Secrets of Diets; Zhu Yizun), 158
Shijing (Book of Poetry), 169
Shopping at Giant Foods (Yee), 228n.54
Shu Wing Gong (Henry Wing), 80
Smith, Arthur Henderson, 86
Spring Garden Grocery (Superior, Ariz.), 228n.54, plate
St. Paul sandwich, 4, 109
Stave, Howard and Renee, x–xi, 5
Steamed Savory Pork Belly with Preserved Vegetables, 5
Stedman, Thomas Lathrop, 67
Suiyuan Shidan (Food Menu of the Suiyuan Garden; Yuan Mei), 133–134, 158–159
Super Size Me (film; 2004), 149–150
sweet and sour dishes, 146
takeout and home delivery, 4, 119, plate
Target (department store chain), 187
Taverns and Drinking in Early America (Salinger), 243n.5
Three-District Association (San Francisco), 75
Tommy Toy’s Cuisine Chinoise (restaurant; San Francisco), 149
Tong-Ling’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 73
Tragedy of American Diplomacy, The (Williams), 196n.27
transnationalization and globalization, 14–15, 20, 184
Treatises of Sun Yat-sen (Sun Wen Xueshuo; Sun Yat-sen), 11
“Try It, You May Like It” (Chen), 79
Tsai, Ming, plate
Turner, Frederick Jackson, 36
Tuxedo (restaurant; New York), 142
Vicuña McKenna, Benjamin, 49
Walker, Nathaniel W., 108
“Wan Qing De Xican Shipu Jiqi Wenhua Yihan” (The Western Cookbooks of the Late Qing and Their Cultural Meaning; Xiaohong), 214n.95
Western food: Chinese cooks and restaurants and, 68, 87–90, 135–136, plate; Chinese reaction to, 12, 68–69, 144–145, 159; influences of, on China, 178–179; Westerners in China and, 72, 86–88
Whang-tong’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 72–73
“What Freedom Means to Us” (Nixon), 36
“Why There Is No Socialism in the United States” (Sombart), 36
Williams-Forson, Psyche A., 183
Wing, Henry (Shu Wing Gong), 80
Wong Kew (restaurant; Washington, D.C.), 136
Wong Village (restaurant; Billings, Mont.), 232n.119
Workingmen’s Party of California, 85
Wu Shi Zhong Kui Lu (The Cookery of Manager’s Records of Ms. Wu), 169
Wuey Sen Low (restaurant; Salem, Ore.), 139, 145
Xing Yuan Lu (Records of the Xing Garden; Li Huanan), 158
Yang Xiao Lu (The Little Book on Nurturing Life; Gu Zhong), 157–158
Yanghe Huiguan (Yeong Wo Native-Place Association; San Francisco), 75
Yin Shan Zheng Yao (The Essentials of Food and Beverage), 157, 235n.19
Yingshi Xu Zhi (All You Must Know About Food; Jia Ming), 19, 134, 157, 227n.28
Yuen Faung Low (restaurant; Minneapolis), 136, plate
Yum! Brands (restaurant group), 178
Zhao Yang Fan Shu (Foreign Cookery in Chinese; American Presbyterian Mission), 87
Zhejiang, cooking style of, 158
Zun Sheng Ba Jian (Eight Treatises on the Principles of Life; Gao Lian), 134, 157