STARTERS,
MAINS,
AND SIDES

 

 

 

While I don’t expect you to cook exclusively from this book, I do hope that you’ll learn just how much vinegar can change your kitchen repertoire. Acetic acid is a cook’s best secret for adding depth of flavor to just about any dish. Try adding ½ cup of vinegar to your chicken or beef stock as it’s simmering on the stove; you’ll release minerals in the bones and brighten your stock right from the get-go. In many of the following recipes, vinegar takes the front burner and adds to the flavor and the nose of the dish. Hopefully by now you’ve come to love the sting of vinegar fumes like I do—and when you remove the cover on the pot, you lean in a little to get that punch that tells you that something great will soon be ready. Many of these are dishes that originally were born of necessity at a time when refrigeration was not as dependable (or was nonexistent). We now have the pleasure and the benefit of all these things at our fingertips—and we don’t need to rely on vinegar for much more than making a meal more delicious.

 

DEVILED PICKLED EGGS

SERVES 4 TO 6

I wouldn’t have thought that anything could be better than deviled eggs, but starting with pickled eggs really takes this recipe over the top. You’ll totally win over colleagues at your company picnic with these bad boys. I use a few of the recipes from the book here, but you could substitute any good-quality mayonnaise and mustard.

8 Pickled Eggs, halved lengthwise

⅓ cup Dashi Mayonnaise, or store-bought mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Real Mustard, or store-bought Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon store-bought distilled white vinegar

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chives sliced into ¾-inch pieces for garnish

1. Slice the eggs in half lengthwise and carefully remove the yolks from the pickled eggs. Add to a bowl, and place the egg whites on a serving platter.
2. Mash the yolks finely and add the mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Mix well.
3. Spoon or pipe (using a piping bag or ziplock bag with the corner cut off) the mixture into the whites. Sprinkle with the chives and serve.

SALT AND VINEGAR BOILED PEANUTS

SERVES 12

These make a fun party snack, and, much like pistachios and lobsters, somehow the work required to get to the food makes it taste better. You can add a jalapeño or other hot chile to the peanuts while they’re cooking to provide some kick. Serve with cold beer—preferably on a Southern porch. This recipe scales well; if you’re feeding a whole football team, use a giant stockpot to make a much larger batch.

1 cup kosher salt

1½ cups homemade vinegar of your choice (apple cider, sherry, or other fruit vinegars all work well; beginning on this page), or store-bought

2 pounds raw peanuts in the shell, soaked in water for 4 to 8 hours and drained (see Tip)

2 tablespoons honey

1 to 2 jalapeños or other hot chile (such as Thai chile), fresh or dried (optional)

1. Fill an 8-quart nonreactive stockpot two-thirds full with water and add the salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and stir to dissolve the salt.
2. Add the vinegar, peanuts, honey, and jalapeño, if using. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and then lower to a simmer and loosely cover the pot. Continue to simmer the peanuts, stirring them every once in a while.
3. Taste the peanuts after 2 hours to check the texture; they should still be a little springy but not mushy. Keep simmering them until they reach your desired texture, this may take up to 4 hours total. When the peanuts are done, remove the stockpot from the heat and let the peanuts stand in the water for 1 hour.
4. Drain the peanuts and serve while still warm with icy beer, or enjoy them cold. The peanuts will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

TIP

While you don’t have to presoak the peanuts, they will cook faster this way.

SEAWEED SALAD

SERVES 4

This ubiquitous sushi side dish is easy to make at home, and it even skips the MSG that’s often found in the restaurant version. Seaweed is a sustainable superfood and has tons of flavor.

1 ounce mixed dried seaweed (see Tip)

2 tablespoons homemade rice (sake) vinegar or Dashi Vinegar, or store-bought

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1 whole scallion, chopped thin on the bias (white and green parts)

1. Place the dried seaweed in a small bowl and add plenty of water to cover; let it soak for about 10 minutes to rehydrate the seaweed.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together the vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, salt, and ginger.
3. Drain the seaweed and add it to the bowl with the dressing. Toss to combine the ingredients.
4. Garnish the salad with the sesame seeds and sliced scallion, and serve immediately.

TIP

You can find mixed dried seaweed in most health food stores and Asian groceries.

KALE SALAD

SERVES 4

This is a go-to recipe that can be adapted for any time of year: it’s hearty enough for winter, but because it requires no heat, it also works well in summer. Bring your kids in the kitchen to help with the prep; as long as the kale leaves are torn, size doesn’t really matter. Top this salad with steak for a heartier meal that doubles down on iron.

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 bunch of Tuscan kale, thick stems removed and leaves torn into bite-sized pieces

¼ cup store-bought sherry vinegar

3 ounces feta or chèvre

3 or 4 peaches, plums, or other stone fruit, pitted and sliced

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1. In a large nonreactive bowl, massage the salt into the kale. Let the kale macerate with the salt for 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Add the vinegar and massage the kale a few times more, then toss in the cheese, fruit, olive oil, and pepper flakes. Serve immediately.

CLABBERED-MILK BLINI WITH CURED FISH

SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER

Clabbered milk refers to unpasteurized whole milk that, when left at room temperature under a specific humidity, thickens and sours because of the bacteria in the raw milk. Historically, this was a great preservation option for milk, and it would keep in this state far longer than fresh milk that had been cooled in the fridge. As such, the fermentation tang became a common flavor that appeared in cakes and other baked goods. You can use vinegar to quickly clabber milk and add that slightly sour taste as well as a thickened texture. I like these blini as a savory base for cured fish (this page) or caviar. Or you can sweeten things up with a Nutella topping or Vinegar Compote.

1 tablespoon homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought

1¼ cups whole milk

1 large egg

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

Unsalted butter, for the griddle

Cured Fish, smoked salmon or trout, or caviar, for serving

Crème fraîche, for serving

1. Pour the vinegar and milk into a nonreactive bowl or 2-cup measure; stir to combine. Let rest for about 10 minutes, or until the milk starts to thicken.
2. Whisk the egg into the clabbered milk; add the flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Let the batter rest for 10 minutes.
3. Heat a griddle over medium heat and grease with butter. Drop the batter by the spoonful onto the griddle to make 2-inch cakes. Cook until lightly browned 1-2 minutes on each side, removing each cake to a plate when done. Keep warm, with a tea towel, or in a low oven while you finish cooking the rest of the batter, greasing the griddle between batches.
4. Top the blini with cured fish and crème fraîche, and serve.

CURED FISH

SERVES 8 AS AN APPETIZER

Mackerel are a prolific fish on the New England coast, and I have spent countless hours catching them on summer vacations and figuring out what to do with them. I love curing the fillets and serving them as sushi, though it took me years to finally get this recipe right. It’s very simple, but the sugar wasn’t an obvious ingredient in the fish I’d eaten in Japanese restaurants. I learned that rather than just adding sweetness, the sugar seasons the fish and draws out moisture the same way salt does. Top sushi rice (this page) with this for nigiri sushi, or slice it up and serve on bagels or as part of a pickle platter for brunch.

3 whole mackerel, filleted, or 6 fillets about 2 pounds total (see Tip)

1 cup sugar

1 cup kosher salt

1 cup homemade rice (sake) vinegar, or store-bought

1. In a glass or enamel shallow roasting pan, cover the fillets with the sugar and let stand for at least 1 hour but not more than 2 hours.
2. Rinse off the sugar, pat the fish dry, and return them to the pan. Cover the fish with the salt. Again, let the fish stand for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.
3. Rinse the fish again, and add them to a ziplock bag that fits the fillets snugly and cover with the vinegar. Push out as much air as possible, seal the bag, and refrigerate at least overnight but not more than 24 hours.
4. Remove the fish from the bag, and rinse and pat them dry. Pull out any large pin bones you can still feel and discard. Slice and serve. The fish will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

TIP

If filleting whole fish, don’t pull out the pin bones yet. It will be much easier to do after you cure the fish; if the fillets are small and the bones thin, they’ll soften in the cure and can be left in and eaten.

MINT PESTO WITH RADIATORI

SERVES 4 TO 6

There’s almost nothing that tastes more like early fall to me than pasta with pesto on a warm night. I love the way radiatori hold sauce, but you can use any short pasta for this dish. Serve with a perky super-cold rosé. You can swap toasted walnuts for the pepitas if you want an earthier dish. This pesto recipe freezes well, especially in ice-cube trays that make for easy portioning. You can substitute basil here, but I find the mint super refreshing.

Kosher salt

¼ cup toasted pepitas

2 garlic cloves

3 cups lightly packed mint leaves, washed and well dried

½ cup good-quality olive oil

¼ cup homemade white wine vinegar or Fruit Vinegar, or store-bought

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound dried radiatori pasta

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add a few tablespoons of salt.
2. Place the pepitas and garlic in a food processor or blender and pulse until finely chopped.
3. Add the mint, oil, and vinegar, and process until finely chopped, scraping down the sides as needed. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove the pesto to a large nonreactive serving bowl.
4. Add the pasta to the pot of boiling water and cook to your desired level of doneness according to the package instructions. Drain the pasta and toss with the pesto while hot. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan.

MY ONION SOUP

SERVES 8 TO 10

This is comfort food of the highest order—with cheesy bread, rich broth, and a side of Julia Child for good measure. In episode 97 of TV’s The French Chef, Julia Child makes onion soup for a spectacular show with an opener about the value of a good chef’s knife and how to care for it. This recipe is informed by her methods but adds vinegar for a brightness that is sometimes lacking in onion soup. Your house will smell amazing as the onions turn from translucent to caramel—and you’ll be happy to know that this is easy to make for a crowd.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more for the baguette

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 cups thinly sliced yellow onions (about 4 large onions)

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons sugar

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 quarts hot Homemade Stock

1½ cups dry white wine

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon minced fresh sage

Freshly ground black pepper

1 baguette

A medium piece of Comté or Gruyère cheese

8 to 10 teaspoons homemade red wine vinegar or Honey Vinegar, or store-bought, for serving

1. Melt the butter and the olive oil together over medium-low heat in a large enameled Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed stainless-steel stockpot. Add the onions, cover the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the onions are translucent.
2. Remove the cover and add the salt and the sugar. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes, or until the onions are a golden brown.
3. Lower the heat to medium and add the flour; stir to combine. Cook for 2 minutes to brown the flour lightly.
4. Add about 1 cup of the stock and whisk to combine with the flour and onions. Add the rest of the stock, the wine, bay leaves, and sage. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.
5. Continue to simmer slowly for 30 minutes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaves.
6. Preheat the oven to 325°F. While the soup simmers, cut the baguette into 1-inch slices, one for each serving bowl, spread one side of each with butter, place on a baking sheet, and toast in the oven. Once the toasts are browned, about 4 minutes, place a slice of cheese on each piece and bake until the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes more.
7. To serve, in each bowl place one cheesy baguette slice, ladle with soup to cover, and pour 1 teaspoon of vinegar over the top.

TIP

When you’re tasting a sauce, soup, or other dish at home and it’s missing something, your first instinct might be to reach for the salt. Try adding vinegar instead. Often what’s missing isn’t sodium, but a little more acid. You can thank me later.

HOMEMADE STOCK

MAKES 4 QUARTS

Adding vinegar to the water when making stock will help pull more nutrients and minerals out of the bones. The acid softens the bones and, of course, adds brightness to your finished product. I find that red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar is the best match for meat broths. As for the bones, I like to use a mix of beef, chicken, pork, and lamb (the ratio is up to you, but that’s my preferred order and you can of course do a single bone stock), and let them simmer for at least a few hours. Make sure to taste and adjust the salt before using or drinking this.

4 pounds bones with some meat still attached

2 bay leaves

½ tablespoon whole black peppercorns

½ cup homemade red wine vinegar, or store-bought sherry vinegar

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

1 unpeeled red onion, roughly chopped

1. Place the bones in a large nonreactive stockpot and cover them with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes, skimming and discarding any foam that appears on the surface.
2. Add the vinegar, celery, carrots, and onion. Bring back to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer uncovered for 3 to 5 hours.
3. Strain and cool the stock; store, covered, in the fridge overnight. Skim any fat that has solidified on the surface. Use within 4 days or freeze (see Tip) for up to 6 months.

TIP

Divide the stock among pint- or quart-sized deli containers before freezing so you always have the quantity you need on hand.

FISH AND LATKES

SERVES 6

Vinegar makes a great condiment on its own; fish-and-chips need little else than a good-quality malt (beer) vinegar. In Japan, vinegar is the preferred accompaniment for shellfish and crustaceans. At a recent lobster dinner, a friend from Tokyo remarked that butter was such an odd dip for lobster. By the end of the meal, we were all converts to vinegar. Without the butter to coat our mouths, we could really taste the succulent brininess of the meat.

FISH BATTER

⅔ cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons paprika (smoked, if you’d like)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg

½ cup cold lager beer

¼ cup ice water

¼ cup homemade malt (beer) vinegar, or store-bought

LATKES

3 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed well

1 medium onion

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil or lard, for frying

FISH

2 pounds pollack, cod, dogfish, or other firm fish fillets, cut into 2-inch-square pieces (see Tip)

Homemade malt (beer) vinegar or store-bought, for serving

Kosher salt, for serving

1. Make the Batter: In a medium nonreactive bowl, mix the flour, paprika, salt, and pepper. In another medium nonreactive bowl, beat the egg and pour in the beer, ice water, and vinegar, and mix well. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients and mix well. (You can make the batter a few days ahead of time and store it in the fridge in a covered container until you’re ready to begin frying.)
2. Prepare the Latkes: Grate the potatoes and onion into a colander placed over a large bowl to catch the liquid that drains. Sprinkle in the salt and gently massage everything together. Let the mixture stand over the bowl for 10 minutes to drain.
3. In a separate large bowl, beat the eggs and add the flour and pepper. Squeeze out as much juice as you can from the potatoes and onion, and then add them to the egg mixture. Pour off the liquid from the bowl that the potatoes drained into and discard it, reserving the white starch that settles at the bottom of the bowl and scraping it into the potato mixture; mix well.
4. Preheat the oven to 225°F.
5. Pour the oil at least 1-inch deep into a cast-iron skillet, Dutch oven, or electric skillet. Heat the oil to 365°F. Add ¼ cup of the potatoes at a time to the hot oil to make 2- to 3-inch latkes and fry until golden brown, turning once, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove the latkes to drain on paper towels or a rack and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, bringing the oil back up to temperature between batches.
6. Fry the Fish: Add more oil to the skillet so it is at least 1-inch deep and heat it to 365°F. Dredge the fish squares in the prepared batter and then add them to the oil, turning once until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Leave 1 to 2 inches between the pieces as you fry; it’s better to fry in batches than to crowd the pan. Drain the fish on paper towels and repeat with the rest of the fish, bringing the oil back up to temperature between batches.
7. Serve the fish with the latkes, generous amounts of malt vinegar, and a sprinkle of salt.

TIP

Frying at home can be a pain. But if you follow a few simple tips, your food can be delicious and not soggy:

• Make sure to keep your oil at a hot enough temperature, in this case 365ºF.
• The colder the ingredients start out, the better (though they should not be frozen).
• I prefer dogfish, pollack, or lingcod.
• Use sturdy russet potatoes and scrub them well.

SAUCY PIQUANT PORK CHOPS

TOP: GERMAN-STYLE MASHED POTATOES

SERVES 4

Adapted from Edward Giobbi’s Italian Family Cooking, published in 1971, these chops were a staple in my mother’s cooking. Ed Giobbi lived across the street from us in Katonah, New York, when I was growing up, and he kept chickens, peacocks, and hens. Every time my mother made this dish, she told the story about how our dog Max would venture across the street and terrorize Ed’s birds. When I moved out on my own, I found this in the family recipe book my mother gave me, and it’s been part of my own repertoire ever since. I like to serve these with roasted or mashed potatoes and a nice salad.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 bone-in pork chops (each 1 to 2 inches thick)

½ cup finely diced onion

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 cup Homemade Stock, or store-bought

¼ cup homemade red wine vinegar, or store-bought

¼ cup store-bought balsamic vinegar (not the expensive, thick “extra vecchio”)

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed if salted

2 tablespoons cornichons, cut into caper-sized pieces

¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. In a large cast-iron skillet with a lid, melt the butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, brown the chops on all sides, about 2 minutes per side, being careful not to scorch the butter.
3. Remove the chops to a plate and pour off all but a tablespoon of the fat. Add the onion and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until they start to brown, about 8 minutes.
4. Add the flour and stir. Cook for 1 minute, then add the stock, vinegars, capers, cornichons, and half of the parsley. Simmer the sauce for 3 minutes.
5. Pour the sauce into a bowl. Return the chops to the pan, cover, and bake for 15 minutes.
6. Remove the chops from the pan and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. Add the sauce to the pan and, over medium heat, reduce it by a fourth to thicken, about 2 minutes. Slice the chops and spoon the sauce over the meat. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

SAUERBRATEN

SERVES 8

Originally born out of a need to preserve the meat from the hunt, this cooking method is used today to soften and flavor what are traditionally cheaper and tougher cuts of the animal. By marinating a cheap bottom round in vinegar and spices and then cooking it in those juices, you get a mouthwatering German-style pot roast. Though I never went to the legendary German restaurant Lüchow’s on East 14th Street in Manhattan, which closed in 1982, this recipe uses their secret: adding crushed ginger cookies to thicken the gravy after the roast is done. This can be cooked just as easily on the second or fourth day of brining if your schedule demands it; just know that the longer you let the meat sit, the tangier it will get. This recipe goes great with German-Style Mashed Potatoes and Roasted Red Cabbage.

1 cup homemade red wine vinegar, or store-bought

1 cup amber ale (see Tip)

1 medium onion, sliced

1 large carrot, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

4 whole cloves

10 juniper berries, smashed with the side of a knife

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 bottom round roast (3 to 4 pounds)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup finely crushed old-fashioned gingersnap cookies

⅓ cup sour cream

½ cup seedless raisins (optional)

1. In an enameled Dutch oven or stainless-steel pot large enough to hold the bottom round, combine 2 cups of water, the vinegar, ale, onion, carrot, celery, cloves, juniper berries, bay leaves, salt, and peppercorns, stirring to dissolve the salt. Place the meat into the pot and store in the refrigerator for 3 days, turning daily if the liquid doesn’t completely cover the roast.
2. On the third day, remove the pot from the fridge and preheat the oven to 325°F.
3. Remove the bottom round from the liquid and pat it dry. In a cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil and brown the roast on all sides, about 3 minutes per side.
4. Bring the liquid in the Dutch oven to a simmer over medium heat and carefully return the browned roast to the pot. Cover and move to the oven; cook until tender, about 3 hours.
5. Remove the pot from the oven and place the roast on a cutting board to let it rest. Meanwhile, strain the solids from the cooking liquid and return the liquid to the pot, reserving the carrot, celery, and any onion pieces that aren’t completely mushy, and discarding any cloves, the bay leaves, and other spices.
6. Boil the sauce over high heat to reduce by a third, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the crushed gingersnaps, a little at a time, whisking until all the pieces are dissolved and you reach a gravy-like consistency (depending on the amount of liquid, you may not need all of the cookies). Add the sour cream and the raisins, if using.
7. Slice the roast, plate with the vegetables, and pour the sauce over the meat to serve.

TIP

Choose a beer that’s not too hoppy (no IPAs); the bitterness will only make the meat taste astringent. Instead, stick with the theme of this meal and opt for a German beer. If you don’t have beer, wine will do just fine.

ROAST CHICKEN ADOBO

SERVES 4 TO 6

In the Philippines, where this recipe originates, they use palm vinegar, which is made from the sap of palm coconut trees. Use it if you have it; otherwise, apple cider or pineapple vinegar is a good substitute. The vinegar cuts down on unwanted bacteria while marinating the meat. Usually served as a stew using dark meat, this recipe has been adapted for a classic whole roast chicken. Serve over rice with the hot pan sauce on the side.

1 cup store-bought palm vinegar or homemade apple cider vinegar or pineapple vinegar (this page), or store-bought

½ cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 head of garlic, peeled and minced

2 bay leaves or 2 teaspoons herbes de Provence

Freshly ground black pepper

1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Cooked rice, for serving

1. In a small nonreactive bowl, mix together the vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, garlic, bay leaves, and pepper. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag. Pour the vinegar mixture over the chicken and seal, pressing out as much air as possible.
2. Marinate the chicken for at least 2 hours or up to overnight in the refrigerator (the longer the better), turning the bag a few times (see Tip).
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
4. Take the chicken out of the bag, discard the bay leaves, and reserve the marinade. Let the chicken come to room temperature in a roasting pan, about 30 minutes. Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F. Cook for about 30 more minutes until the breast meat registers 165°F on an instant-read thermometer.
5. Remove the chicken to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes. Add the reserved marinade to the roasting pan with the juices and boil the liquid to reduce it by half, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and whisk to combine.
6. Serve the chicken with the rice and sauce.

TIP

If you plan on cooking the dish within 3 hours, you can marinate the chicken at room temperature. Also, these ingredients easily double to make two chickens for serving a crowd.

STEWED LAMB NECK

SERVES 8

This is a hearty meal for a chilly afternoon. Use a pressure cooker to cut the cooking time to less than an hour and you can make this dish on a weeknight. If time is of little object, you can simmer it on the stove for 3 to 4 hours and achieve similar results; however, I find that the pressure cooker also aids in pulling more gelatin from the bones and connective tissue, yielding a far more unctuous dish.

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 pounds lamb neck with bones (ask your butcher to cut for stew; see Tip)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and minced

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

2 carrots, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

1 rosemary sprig

½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted

1 quart Homemade Stock or water

¾ cup homemade red wine vinegar, or store-bought sherry vinegar

1 pound wide egg noodles

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

1. Season the lamb neck with salt and pepper. In a 6- to 8-quart pressure cooker (or Dutch oven if taking the slow route), heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown the lamb in batches, about 3 minutes, and set aside.
2. Add the onions and ginger to the pressure cooker (or Dutch oven) and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the carrots, celery, and herbs and seeds, and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, or until they just start to soften and the carrots are bright orange.
3. Return the lamb to the pressure cooker (or Dutch oven) and add the stock and vinegar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cover (don’t let it boil). Cook the lamb on high according to the pressure cooker directions (approximately 15 pounds of pressure) for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the pressure come down naturally (or use the quick method appropriate for your pressure cooker).
4. When the pressure has depleted, open the cooker and remove the lamb to a large nonreactive bowl to rest for 10 minutes. Season the stew with salt and pepper to taste. If it’s too watery for your preference, you can boil the liquid to reduce it.
5. While the meat rests bring a medium stockpot of water to a boil over high heat, salt it, and add the noodles, cooking them according to the package directions.
6. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the bones and return it to the pot, stirring to coat.
7. When the noodles are just tender, drain them well and immediately place them in a medium bowl with the butter. Toss to combine.
8. Serve the stewed lamb over the egg noodles and enjoy.

TIP

If you can find it, goat meat, which often comes already cut into small chunks, is a great substitute for lamb.

ROASTED RED CABBAGE

SERVES 10

This recipe is so simple and makes a delicious snack with beer. Or turn it into a great side by serving it with Sauerbraten or Japanese noodles. I’d eat it with just about anything. The crispier the cabbage gets in the oven, the better the flavor!

1 medium head of red cabbage (about 3 pounds), cored and leaves separated, cut into bite-sized pieces

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought

Kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Place the cabbage pieces in a nonreactive bowl with the oil and toss to combine. Spread the cabbage on a sheet pan and roast until the thinner leaves are brown and crispy, about 30 minutes.
3. Remove the pan from the oven and spray the vinegar on the hot cabbage. Sprinkle with salt to taste and serve.

TIP

Putting a spray top on your vinegar bottle will allow you to evenly cover the cabbage with vinegar.

GERMAN-STYLE MASHED POTATOES

SERVES 8

My first “real” job in high school was at a deli in Petaluma, California, which was famous for its potato salad. The secret lay in the dry spice mix that we added to the homemade mayonnaise. Though the exact recipe for the mix was a closely guarded secret, this recipe is nowhere near as fussy, makes better use of vinegar, and features the potatoes mashed until creamy. Serve this dish alongside good grainy mustard, sauerkraut, and hearty sausages for an easy German-style feast. I like to leave the skin on the potatoes for the added texture, but feel free to peel them, especially if the potatoes aren’t as new as you’d like.

3 pounds new potatoes, peeled if desired

4 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

⅓ cup homemade apple cider vinegar or Chive Blossom Vinegar, or store-bought

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

2 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias (green parts only), for garnish

1. Quarter the potatoes, place them in a stockpot, and cover with water by 1 inch. Add the salt. Bring the potatoes to a boil, turn down the heat to medium high, and cook them for about 10 minutes, or until a fork can easily pierce them.
2. Drain the potatoes and place them in a large nonreactive bowl. Pour the vinegar over the potatoes while they are still hot and mix well, mashing them with a potato masher or wooden spoon until soft and fluffy.
3. Fold in the olive oil and butter while the potatoes are still warm. Liberally add more salt and pepper to taste.
4. Garnish with the scallions and serve warm.

TIP

This recipe is a spin-off of traditional German potato salad, which can easily be made instead by reducing the cooking time of the potatoes a few minutes (cook them until soft, but still firm). Cube or slice them, then dress with the ingredients before serving cold or warm.

GREENS WITH PICKLED GARLIC

SERVES 6

Here’s a great use for Pickled Whole Garlic; if you don’t have it, you can substitute fresh garlic. Sautéed greens are a natural fit for vinegar. Collards, kale, beet greens—this recipe works for anything you can get your hands on. A trip to Bub’s BBQ in Sunderland, Massachusetts, was a favorite outing when I was in college. The portions were huge and the pricing was fair, and on top of that, they had an unlimited sides bar. The collard greens are what I remember most: tender, smoky, and vinegary.

¼ pound bacon or bacon end, chopped

1 red onion, chopped

2 cups chicken broth, lager, or water

⅓ cup homemade malt (beer) vinegar or apple cider vinegar, or store-bought

2 tablespoons good-quality maple syrup or dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon molasses, plus more as desired

1 tart, crunchy apple, cored and chopped

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 pounds collard (or other) greens, stems removed, coarsely chopped

1 head Pickled Whole Garlic or 8 fresh garlic cloves, peeled and minced

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a heavy skillet with a lid, cook the bacon over medium heat until most of the fat has rendered, but don’t let the bacon get too crispy brown. Remove the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate and pour off and discard half of the fat.
2. Sauté the onion over medium-high heat in the bacon fat until slightly browned, about 5 minutes, then add the broth, vinegar, maple syrup, molasses, apple, and pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, and stir in the greens and bacon.
3. Cover and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.
4. Add the garlic and simmer for 5 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust the sweetness with more maple syrup or molasses as desired.

SUMESHI (SUSHI RICE) BOWL

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SEAWEED SALAD, CURED MACKEREL, QUICK PICKLED CARROT AND GINGER

Rice is serious business, especially in Japan, where an apprentice chef can take years to perfect his sushi. This recipe should get you well on your way to enjoying great rice at home. The goal is to achieve cooked rice grains that are still whole (not crushed), sticky, and slightly glossy. Try your hand at making nigiri sushi, with fish on top of a small piece of rice, but know that you probably need another two years to nail down the proper technique. You can use this rice for maki (rolls) or you can of course stick to more rustic uses like chirashi bowls and hand rolls.

2 cups short grain Japanese rice

½ cup homemade rice (sake) vinegar, or store-bought

2½ tablespoons sugar

2 x 3-inch piece of kombu

Your favorite vegetables, pickled (beginning on this page), cured mackerel, soft-cooked egg, and/or sliced cooked steak or other fish, for serving

1. Rinse the rice well until you see little to no cloudiness in the water. Add the rice and 2 cups of water to a rice cooker or a medium stovetop saucepan. Follow the directions for the rice cooker, or if cooking the rice on the stovetop, bring the rice to a boil, then immediately reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat and let stand covered for 10 minutes.
2. While the rice cooks, bring the vinegar, sugar, and kombu just to a boil in a small nonreactive saucepan and remove from the heat to rest. When the rice is done, transfer it to a large nonreactive bowl or wide dish with 2-inch-high sides (like a lasagna pan). Fluff the rice.
3. Remove the kombu from the vinegar and discard. Sprinkle the vinegar mixture over the rice to evenly coat it. Use a shamoji (Japanese rice paddle) for best results or a flat wooden spatula to fold the vinegar into the rice, being careful not to mash the rice. Serve warm with pickled vegetables, fish, soft-cooked egg, and anything else your heart desires.

SQUASH STEAMED OVER VINEGAR

SERVES 6

I go on a steamed squash kick every winter. This recipe is the easiest and fastest way to make this delicious vegetable, which often seems like a big production. Choose a kabocha or acorn squash with soft enough skin and you don’t even have to peel it (you can eat the skin, too). Serve this with large flakes of sea salt, soy sauce, wasabi, and sushi rice (see this page).

1 kabocha or acorn squash (about 2 pounds)

1 cup homemade rice (sake) vinegar or red wine vinegar, or store-bought

1 teaspoon flaky sea salt (I like Maldon)

1. Cut the squash in half and scoop out and discard the seeds. Slice the squash into ½ to ¾-inch-thick crescents.
2. Heat the vinegar over medium high heat in a medium nonreactive saucepan fitted with a steamer insert. When the vinegar boils, add the squash, cover the pot, and steam until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sea salt before serving. The squash will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.