Red in the Face

Every so often we love doing an all-red tasting. Red wine drinkers are often passionately committed to drinking red and would prefer to skip the whites altogether. You can do that and still go from light to heavy wine—and find wines to pair with every course. The name of this Wine Monday was inspired by chefs' reputations for having tempers—and occasionally getting a little (or a lot) red in the face. But usually that anger is nothing some laughter and a good glass of red wine can't fix.

Menu & Pairings

 

Seared Half-Cured Salmon with Aunt Midge's Sauce and Mustard Greens	2003 Montinore Estate, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Crispy Confit Duck Hash with Black Kale and Poached Eggs	2001 Cave de Rasteau, "Prestige," Rasteau Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France
Roasted Peppered Venison with Red Currant-Zinfandel Sauce and Celery Root and Parsnips	2002 Mauritson, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, California
Ricotta Tarts with Pine Nuts and Cocoa Nibs	Graham's, "Six Grapes," Oporto, Portugal

Wine Notes

1ST PAIRING: SEARED HALF-CURED SALMON WITH AUNT MIDGE'S SAUCE AND MUSTARD GREENS
SERVED WITH: 2003 MONTINORE ESTATE, PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON

We start with a light wine for the first course and move through bolder, fuller wines as the dinner progresses. Pinot Noir has become exceedingly popular in recent years, and when it's good it's an ideal light red wine. However, if you find a Pinot you don't like, don't get discouraged. Pinot Noir is a fickle, thin-skinned grape that likes a cool climate (such as you find in Oregon) but can't get too wet, and it is more susceptible than others to rot. It really needs to be taken care of in the field, and it can't be easily blended with other varieties or treated with a lot of oak to mask problems with the fruit. So when you find one you love, enjoy it!

2ND PAIRING: CRISPY CONFIT DUCK HASH WITH BLACK KALE AND POACHED EGGS
SERVED WITH: 2001 CAVE DE RASTEAU, "PRESTIGE," RASTEAU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES, FRANCE

Grenache is the predominant grape in this wine, which comes from a region in the Côtes du Rhône. It has flavors of cherry and black pepper that work really well with duck—the sweet, gamey earthiness plays well against Grenache.

3RD PAIRING: ROASTED PEPPERED VENISON WITH RED CURRANT-ZINFANDEL SAUCE AND CELERY ROOT AND PARSNIPS
SERVED WITH: 2002 MAURITSON, ZINFANDEL, DRY CREEK VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

Zinfandel and venison is one of our favorite combinations. Venison is lean, but it has a nice peppery, spicy flavor The marinade for this venison has juniper berries, currants, rosemary, and thyme—and Zinfandel is beautiful with aromatic spices and fruit. Some Zinfandel is so rich, bold, and high in alcohol that it's difficult to pair with food—so look for one that's a little mellower, with a dense core and elegant fruity notes.

4TH PAIRING: RICOTTA TARTS WITH PINE NUTS AND COCOA NIBS
SERVED WITH: GRAHAM'S, "SIX GRAPES," OPORTO, PORTUGAL

Port has a little bit of a chocolate essence to it and can also have a nice citrus flavor, so it goes well with a cheese-based dessert with hints of chocolate and orange. Another good pairing with this tart would be a dessert wine from the Greek island of Samos, where they make a mean Muscat. Samos has been famous for its dessert wine for more than 2,000 years.

Seared Half-Cured Salmon with Aunt Midge's Sauce and Mustard Greens

We cure many of our meats and fish in-house, and the process can be time-consuming. This method results in similar flavors to home curing but isn't quite so involved. The sauce has been a family favorite for a long time, and now it's a L'Espalier favorite. Aunt Midge is my great-great-aunt, and she devised this recipe to go with salmon. We serve it with any kind offish or shellfish.

 

¼	cup kosher salt
1	cup granulated sugar
¼	cup brown sugar
1	teaspoon ground fennel
1	teaspoon ground coriander
¼	teaspoon ground cloves
1	bay leaf, crushed
1	teaspoon caraway seeds
1	teaspoon lemon zest
1	teaspoon lime zest
1	teaspoon orange zest
1	teaspoon dried mint
1	pound salmon fillets (skin on)
1	tablespoon canola oil

1. Combine the salt, sugars, fennel, coriander, cloves, bay leaf, caraway seeds, citrus zests, and mint in a small bowl. Place the salmon fillets, skin side down, on a plate. Evenly distribute the curing mixture over the surface of the salmon, covering all the flesh. Refrigerate the salmon, covered, and let cure for 4 hours or overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
3. Remove the salmon from the refrigerator. Rinse the curing mixture off the fillets and pat them dry with paper towels. Divide the salmon into 6 equal-sized portions.
4. Place a medium-size ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the canola oil and heat for about 1 minute. Place the salmon, skin side down, in the pan and cook for 1 minute. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast the salmon for 4 minutes per ½ inch of thickness for medium doneness.
5. To serve, place 1 tablespoon of Aunt Midge's Sauce ([>]) on each of 6 plates. Divide the Mustard Greens ([>]) evenly among the plates, placing them next to the sauce, leaving room for the salmon. Carefully position the salmon next to the sauce and the greens.

Aunt Midge's Sauce

4	tablespoons mayonnaise
4	tablespoons crème fraîche
1	teaspoon Dijon mustard
½	teaspoon prepared horseradish or ½ teaspoon prepared wasabi
½	teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1	teaspoon dried fines herbes (below)
1	tablespoon sherry
½	teaspoon cayenne pepper
	Salt

Combine the mayonnaise, crème fraîche, mustard, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, fines herbes, sherry, cayenne, and salt to taste in a food processor or blender until smooth. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Mustard Greens

¼	pound (about 3 cups) mustard greens
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1	tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2	tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Place the greens in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss with the greens.

 

FINES HERBES

Fines herbes refers to a mix of parsley, tarragon, chervil, and chives that is a staple in French cooking. You should be able to find dried fines herbes on your supermarket spice rack, but if you can't, you can substitute a mixture of equal parts parsley flakes and dried tarragon.

Crispy Confit Duck Hash with Black Kale and Poached Eggs

This recipe uses L'Espalier's version of confit duck—it's a house specialty. Our preparation method brings out the best of the sweetness in the duck. Black kale also often goes by the names dinosaur kale or Tuscan kale. The poached eggs are great with this menu, on their own, or with a little Citrus Hollandaise ([>]) spooned on top. If you don't want to make your own confit, you can usually find it at specialty butcher shops (that's also a good place to look for duck fat if you do want to make your own).

 

1	tablespoon butter
1	tablespoon olive oil
1	large yellow onion, diced
1	leek, sliced in half, washed ([>]), and diced
2	garlic cloves, minced
1	sweet potato, peeled and diced into ¼-inch cubes
2	celery stalks, diced
1	medium-size red bell pepper, seeded and diced
	Confit Duck ([>])
1	tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1	tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1	tablespoon port
1	teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1. Heat a medium-size sauté pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter and oil to the pan. When the butter starts to sizzle, add the onion and leek. Stir with a wooden spoon and cook for about 3 minutes, until translucent. Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add the sweet potato, celery, and red bell pepper and stir them in; reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for 10 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes are tender enough to pierce easily with a knife.
2. Uncover and add the confit duck and the thyme. Stir until evenly mixed. Turn the heat to medium and add the vinegar, port, and Worcestershire sauce. Cook for 3 more minutes.
3. Scoop the hash onto a serving platter, and place a bed of Black Kale ([>]) at the center of the platter, on top of the hash. Arrange the Poached Eggs ([>]) over the top of the kale.

Confit Duck

2	tablespoons salt
1	tablespoon brown sugar
½	teaspoon ground allspice
¼	teaspoon ground cloves
1	tablespoon dried rosemary
1	teaspoon dried thyme
6	juniper berries, crushed with the flat end of a knife
1	bay leaf, crushed
	Zest of 1 orange
4	duck legs
1	quart duck fat or vegetable oil

1. Combine the salt, sugar, allspice, cloves, rosemary, thyme, juniper berries, bay leaf, and orange zest in a medium-size bowl. Toss the duck legs with the mixture until evenly coated. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 4 hours or, for best results, overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
3. Place the duck legs in a large ovenproof pot and cover with the duck fat. Heat over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, or until the duck fat begins to simmer.
4. Cover the pot and put it in the oven to bake for about 3 hours, or until a fork moves through the meat effortlessly. Allow the duck to cool until it's just warm to the touch, and then remove it from the duck fat. You could serve it as is and impress your guests with straight-up confit duck—or remove the meat from the bones and set aside to use in the Crispy Confit Duck Hash.

Black Kale

1	tablespoon butter
1	tablespoon olive oil
1	small yellow onion, diced
2	garlic cloves, minced
½	pound (2 bunches) black kale, roughly chopped
1	tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1	teaspoon dried tarragon
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a large pot over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter and oil. When the butter is sizzling (that should take about 1 minute), add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is translucent, about minutes.
2. Add the kale and cover. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and tarragon and cook for 3 minutes. Stir again. Cover and cook for about 3 more minutes, until tender. Season with salt and pepper.

Poached Eggs

1	tablespoon salt, plus more to taste
1	tablespoon white vinegar
2	whole black peppercorns
6	large eggs
	Freshly ground black pepper

1. Fill a large saucepan halfway with water. Add the salt, vinegar, and peppercorns. Bring the water to a simmer over medium-low heat.
2. Crack the eggs into the simmering water. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the whites are completely cooked. Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted spoon. Season with salt and pepper.

Roasted Peppered Venison with Red Currant-Zinfandel Sauce and Celery Root and Parsnips

Venison is leaner and healthier than many meats, and it has a wonderful and distinctive gamey flavor. The earthiness of celery root and parsnips complements the venison perfectly in this winter dish. You can roast the celery root and parsnips while the venison rack is cooling. Just turn the oven temperature up to 400°F when you remove the venison. Fresh currants are readily available in supermarkets in the fall and winter.

 

	Red Currant-Zinfandel Marinade (recipe follows)
1	venison rack (about 3 pounds)
2	celery stalks, chopped
1	yellow onion, chopped
2	carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1	leek, washed ([>]) and coarsely chopped
1	cup fresh red currants
1	teaspoon dried thyme
4	garlic cloves, crushed
2	bay leaves
1	whole clove
1	cup Zinfandel
½	cup fresh orange juice
2	slices bacon

1. Spread the marinade evenly over the venison rack. Let marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. Remove the rack from the refrigerator at least 1 hour prior to cooking.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
3. Combine the celery, onion, carrots, leek, ¾ cup of the currants, the thyme, garlic, bay leaves, clove, wine, and orange juice in a roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven to heat just before searing the venison.
4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Add the bacon to the pan and cook until the fat is rendered, about 8 minutes. Remove the bacon from the skillet and set aside. When cool enough, chop the bacon into small bits.
5. Place the venison rack, meat side down, in the skillet, and turn the heat up to high. Cook the rack until it's browned evenly on all sides, about 4 minutes total.
6. Transfer the rack to the roasting pan and reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Roast for 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the meat is 132° to 135°F (for rare), or another 2 to 4 minutes for medium-rare (136° to 140°F). Transfer the rack to a platter and cover it with aluminum foil, allowing it to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.
7. Meanwhile, strain all the juices from the roasting pan through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan. Reduce the liquid by half over medium heat, about 4 minutes. Add the remaining ¼ cup currants and the bacon. Spoon the sauce over the venison and serve with the Celery Root and Parsnips ([>]).

Red Currant-Zinfandel Marinade

½	cup fresh red currants
2	tablespoons Dijon mustard
2	shallots, minced
2	garlic cloves, minced
5	juniper berries
1	teaspoon dried thyme
2	bay leaves
1	teaspoon dried rosemary
3	tablespoons Zinfandel
2	tablespoons canola oil
1	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine the currants, mustard, shallots, garlic, juniper berries, thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, wine, oil, and pepper in a food processor and blend until smooth.

Celery Root and Parsnips

2	celery roots, peeled and cut into ½-inch sticks
4	parsnips, peeled and quartered lengthwise
1	tablespoon herbes de Provence ([>])
1	teaspoon salt
1	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2	tablespoons canola oil

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Toss the celery root and parsnip pieces with the herbes de Provence, salt, and pepper in a bowl.
3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat for 3 minutes. Add the oil to the pan and heat for 1 minute. Evenly distribute the vegetables over the surface of the pan and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are golden brown.

 

ROOTING AROUND

Try this preparation with other root vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, sweet potatoes, or rutabagas.

Ricotta Tarts with Pine Nuts and Cocoa Nibs

Creamy, slightly citrusy, and not too heavy, this dessert is a delicious way to finish off a winter meal along with a glass of port. Cocoa nibs are being used more and more often in restaurant desserts, and with good reason. They are roasted cocoa beans that have been separated from their husks and broken into pieces, and they have a subtle, but unadulterated, chocolate flavor. You can easily find them in gourmet stores, chocolate shops, and online.

 

1	recipe Pate Real ([>])
2	cups whole-milk ricotta cheese
½	cup buttermilk
½	cup heavy cream
⅔	cup sugar
1	teaspoon pure vanilla extract
	Zest of 1 orange
	Zest of 1 lemon
¼	teaspoon ground nutmeg
½	teaspoon salt
4	large egg yolks
1	large egg
¼	cup pine nuts
¼	cup cocoa nibs

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Divide the pastry dough into 6 portions and press the dough into 6 individual 3½-inch tart pans. (If you prefer to make one large tart, use a 10-inch tart pan.) Place the tart pans or pan on a baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, beat together the ricotta, buttermilk, cream, sugar, vanilla, orange and lemon zests, nutmeg, salt, egg yolks, and egg. Pour the mixture into the parbaked crusts. Evenly distribute the pine nuts and cocoa nibs over the tops of the tarts. Bake for 15 minutes (or 20 minutes for a 10-inch tart), until the top of the filling is just starting to crack. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before serving.