Transport
Transport
Getting There & Away
Many travellers enter or exit Laos via the country's numerous land and river borders. Flying into Laos is a relatively easy option as there is only a small number of airlines serving Laos and prices don't vary much. Flights and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering the Country
Wattay International Airport Buses and jumbos run to/from Vientiane's airport. Taxis/minibuses cost a flat fare of US$7/8.
Luang Prabang International Airport (
%071-212173; 
W) Taxis to/from the airport cost a standardised 50,000K.
Savannakhet International Airport Jumbos cost 30,000K from the airport, but drivers may start higher.
Pakse International Airport A săhm-lór or tuk-tuk to the airport will cost about 50,000K.
Climate Change and Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Air
Laos has air connections with regional countries including Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, China and South Korea. The most convenient international gateway to Laos is Bangkok and there are plenty of flights to the Thai capital. If heading to Laos for a shorter holiday, it is cheaper to take an indirect flight to Bangkok with a stop on the way. Once in Bangkok, there are planes, trains and buses heading to Laos.
Airports & Airlines
There are four international airports in Laos: Wattay International Airport in Vientiane, Luang Prabang International Airport, Savannakhet International Airport and Pakse International Airport.
Lao Airlines is the national carrier and monopolises the majority of flights in and out of the country.
Air Asia Flights from Vientiane to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur daily, plus Luang Prabang to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) Daily flights between Bangkok and Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse, plus Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang flights.
China Eastern Airlines (www.ce-air.com) Flies daily to Kunming and Nanning from Vientiane.
Korean Air Daily connections between Vientiane and Seoul.
Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) National carrier. The extensive international flight network includes Vientiane to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Guangzhou, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Kunming, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Singapore; Luang Prabang to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Siem Reap; Pakse to Bangkok, Danang, Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap; and Savannakhet to Bangkok and Danang.
Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com) Vientiane and Luang Prabang to Bangkok daily.
Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com) Connects Vientiane with Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Phnom Penh, plus Luang Prabang with Hanoi and Siem Reap.
DEPARTURE TAX
There is a departure tax of US$10 on all international flights, but it is included in the ticket price at the time of purchase.
Land
Laos shares land and/or river borders with Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Cambodia, China and Vietnam. Border-crossing details change regularly, so ask around and check the Thorn Tree (lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) before setting off.
It's possible to bring a car or motorcycle into Laos from Cambodia and Thailand with the right paperwork and Lao customs don't object to visitors bringing bicycles into the country, but it is not currently possible from Vietnam, China or Myanmar.
Cambodia
There are daily buses and minibuses connecting Pakse with Stung Treng (four hours), Kratie (six hours) and Phnom Penh (11 hours). These also stop at Ban Nakasang and Ban Hat Xai in both directions for travellers planning to relax in Si Phan Don. It's best to take one of these through-buses, as it's pretty tough to arrange transport at the Non Nok Khiene (Laos)/Trapaeng Kriel (Cambodia) border.
China
Handy through-buses link major towns in Yunnan to northern Laos. Routes include Luang Namtha–Jinghong (six hours), Udomxai–Mengla (five hours) and Kunming–Luang Prabang (around 24 hours on a Chinese sleeper bus). It's also perfectly feasible to make the journey in hops via Boten, the only China–Lao border crossing currently open to foreigners. From Móhān on the Chinese side it's around a two-hour minibus ride to Mengla, the nearest large town.
Myanmar
The first Lao-Myanmar Friendship Bridge officially opened in May 2016 connecting Xieng Kok in Luang Namtha Province with Tachelik District in Shan State. However, border-demarcation disagreements have delayed it opening for international traffic. Check in Vientiane or Luang Namtha before setting off this way or play it safe and transit through Thailand, via Chiang Khong and Mae Sai, to the Burmese town of Tachilek.
Thailand
There are eight crossings to Thailand open to foreigners. Some involve taking a boat across the Mekong, or crossing the river on one of the Friendship Bridges.
Thailand to Vientiane
There are eight crossings to Thailand open to foreigners. Some involve taking a boat across the Mekong, or crossing the river on one of the Friendship Bridges.
Thailand to Northern Laos
The majority of visitors are heading to or from Luang Prabang. There are three main options but no route allows you to make the trip in a single journey. The Chiang Rai–Huay Xai–Luang Prabang route is by far the most tourist-friendly and potentially the quickest route (around 24 hours using buses, or two days by bus-boat combination).
Travel this way is via Chiang Khong/Huay Xai. Departing from Chiang Rai on the first bus of the day it is possible to connect with the slowboat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, arriving the following evening. Or leave Chiang Rai at lunchtime and connect with the 5pm overnight bus (faster but not recommended when compared with the beautiful boat journey), arriving in Luang Prabang late next morning. Through-tickets from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai agencies are generally overpriced.
Other possibilities are perfectly feasible but see almost no foreign tourists, so you'll need to be comfortable with local languages or sign language. These routes can also take several days due to limited transport and poor roads. Choose from the Nan–Muang Ngeun–Luang Prabang route or the even more remote Loei–Pak Lai–Sainyabuli option.
Thailand to Central Laos
Although relatively few tourists use them, the border crossings that straddle the Mekong between northeastern Thailand and central Laos are almost universally convenient and straightforward.
The river crossing between Nakhon Phanom and Tha Khaek is a breeze. There are several daily buses between Bangkok and Nakhon Phanom (12 hours), but it's almost as cheap and much faster to use the budget airlines.
The bridge between Mukdahan and Savannakhet is the southernmost Mekong River crossing open to non-Thai and non-Lao nationals. Several buses link Bangkok and Mukdahan (about 10 hours), and the Thai-Lao International Bus runs between the latter and Savannakhet's bus station (45 minutes). There are also fly-drive options available via Nakhon Phanom airport with budget airlines.
The river crossing between Beung Kan and Paksan is the weak link with a dearth of regular transport on the Thai side.
Thailand to Southern Laos
International buses connect Pakse with Ubon Ratchathani (four hours including crossing) via the Vang Tao (Laos) and Chong Mek (Thailand) border twice daily, plus there is one through service a day to Bangkok. Combination bus and train tickets can also be purchased in Pakse.
Vietnam
At the time of writing, foreigners could cross between Laos and Vietnam at seven different border posts. Laos issues 30-day tourist visas at all of these, but Vietnamese visas must be arranged in advance in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Savannakhet or Pakse for some nationals. Exceptions are Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) countries, Japan and South Korea, plus some European countries such as Scandinavia, France, Italy, Spain, Germany and the UK. In every case we recommend using a through-bus rather than trying to make the trip in hops, as it can be very difficult to arrange onward transport from the remote border posts.
Vietnam to Northern Laos
An increasingly popular alternative to the hellish 24-hour buses between Hanoi and Vientiane is to start from northwestern Vietnam and use the daily Dien Bien Phu–Muang Khua bus, crossing the border at Tay Trang, before arriving in fascinating Phongsali Province. Reaching Luang Prabang from Dien Bien Phu is possible in two days (one night in Muang Khua). Better is to take it slowly using the Nam Ou (Ou River) riverboats with a stop in Nong Khiaw.
Other decent alternatives start from the Vietnamese towns of Thanh Hoa and Vinh. Thanh Hoa–Sam Neua buses (daily), which pass through the border at Nam Soi, take a beautiful route and are ideal for visiting the memorable Vieng Xai Caves on a long overland trip to Luang Prabang.
Buses on the Vinh–Phonsavan route, which pass the border at lonely Nam Can, allow a visit to the enigmatic Plain of Jars but don't run daily.
Vietnam to Vientiane & Central Laos
There are direct buses from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Vientiane, but a more interesting alternative is to break up the trip in beautiful but seldom visited central Laos.
Starting out in central Vietnam, there are a few different options. The border at Lao Bao, easily accessed from Dong Ha, is the largest and easiest of all crossings to/from Vietnam. Once in Laos, break the journey with stays in Sepon, visiting what's left of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, or in Savannakhet. Moving north, there's a crossing at Cha Lo, but virtually the only traffic is the buses that run between Dong Hoi and Tha Khaek. The most popular crossing is at Cau Treo, which is easily accessed via Vinh, and which is also the route that the direct buses between Vientiane and Hanoi use. Punctuate the journey with a visit to the spectacular underground river at Tham Kong Lor.
Vietnam to Southern Laos
There is a daily bus service (in both directions) between Pakse and Kontum, passing through both Sekong and Attapeu, as well as the Phou Keua (Laos)/Bo Y (Vietnam) border. It takes about eight to nine hours to complete the entire journey or about half that between Attapeu and Kontum.
LAOS BORDER CROSSINGS
CAMBODIA
| Border Crossing | Connecting Towns | Visa Available on Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Non Nok Khiene (L)/Trapeang Kriel (C) | Si Phan Don (L), Stung Treng (C) | Yes |
CHINA
| Border Crossing | Connecting Towns | Visa Available on Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Boten (L)/Móhān (C) | Luang Nam Tha (L), Mengla (C) | Laos only |
MYANMAR (BURMA)
| Border Crossing | Connecting Towns | Visa Available on Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Houy Koum (L)/Kainglek (M) | Luang Namtha (L), Tachilek (M) | No |
THAILAND
| Border Crossing | Connecting Towns | Visa Available on Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Tha Na Leng (L)/Nong Khai (T) | Vientiane (L), Nong Khai (T) | Yes |
| Paksan (L)/Beung Kan (T) | Paksan (L), Beung Kan (T) | No |
| Huay Xai(L)/Chiang Khong (T) | Huay Xai (L), Chiang Rai (T) | Yes |
| Tha Khaek(L)/Nakhon Phanom(T) | Tha Khaek (L), Nakhon Phanom (T) | Yes |
| Savannakhet (L)/Mukdahan (T) | Savannakhet (L), Mukdahan (T) | Yes |
| Vang Tao (L)/Chong Mek (T) | Pakse (L), Ubon Ratchathani (T) | Yes |
| Muang Ngeun (L)/Huay Kon (T) | Hongsa (L), Phrae (T) | Yes |
| Kaen Thao (L)/Tha Li (T) | Pak Li (L), Loei (T) | Yes |
VIETNAM
| Border Crossing | Connecting Towns | Visa Available on Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Dansavanh (L)/Lao Bao (V) | Savannakhet (L), Dong Ha (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Phou Keua (L)/Bo Y (V) | Attapeu (L), Kontum (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Na Phao (L)/Cha Lo (V) | Tha Khaek (L), Dong Hoi (L) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Nong Haet (L)/Nam Can (V) | Phonsavan (L), Vinh (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Nam Phao (L)/CauTreo (V) | Tha Khaek (L), Vinh (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Na Meo (L)/Nam Soi (V) | Sam Neua (L), Thanh Hoa (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
| Pang Hok (L)/Tay Trang (V) | Muang Khua (L), Dien Bien Phu (V) | Laos all/Vietnam some |
Getting Around
Transport in Laos is generally very good value, but journeys can take a lot longer than distances on a map might suggest.
Air Laos has an extensive domestic flight network and this can save considerable time on a short visit.
Boat Rivers are the lifeblood of Laos, making boat journeys an important element of the transport network.
Bus Laos has some smart buses operating on major routes out of Vientiane, but venture into remote areas and vehicles are as old as the hills.
Car For those with a more flexible budget, a rented car with driver is the smoothest way to cover a lot of ground in a limited amount of time.
Air
Domestic flights to smaller airports suffer fairly frequent cancellations due to fog and, in March, heavy smoke during the slash-and-burn season. During the holiday season it's best to book ahead as flights can fill fast. At other times, when flights are more likely to be cancelled, confirm the flight is still departing a day or two before.
Airlines in Laos
Lao Airlines The main airline in Laos handling domestic flights, including between Vientiane and Luang Prabang, Luang Nam Tha, Pakse, Phonsavan, Savannakhet and Udomxai.
Lao Skyway A newer domestic airline with flights from Vientiane to Udomxai, Luang Prabang, Huay Xai and Luang Namtha.
With the exception of the Lao Airlines' offices in major cities, where credit cards are accepted for both international and domestic tickets, it is necessary to pay cash in US dollars.
Bicycle
The stunningly beautiful roads and light, relatively slow traffic in most towns and on most highways make Laos arguably the best country for cycling in Southeast Asia.
Simple single-speed bicycles can be hired in most places that see a decent number of tourists, usually costing about 20,000K per day. Better mountain bikes will cost from 40,000K to 80,000K per day.
Boat
More than 4600km of navigable rivers are the highways and byways of traditional Laos, the main thoroughfares being the Mekong, Nam Ou, Nam Khan, Nam Tha, Nam Ngum and Se Kong. The Mekong is the longest and most important route and is navigable year-round between Luang Prabang in the north and Savannakhet in the south. Smaller rivers accommodate a range of smaller boats, from dugout canoes to 'bomb boats' made from war detritus.
Whether it's on a tourist boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang or on a local boat you've rustled up in some remote corner of the country, it's still worth doing at least one river excursion while in Laos.
River Ferries (Slowboats) & River Taxis
The slowboat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang is the most popular river trip in Laos. It is still a daily event and relatively cheap at about 200,000K or US$25 per person for the two-day journey. From Huay Xai, these basic boats are often packed, while travelling in the other direction from Luang Prabang there seems to be more room. Passengers sit, eat and sleep on the wooden decks. The toilet (if there is one) is an enclosed hole in the deck at the back of the boat.
For shorter river trips, such as Luang Prabang to the Pak Ou Caves, it's usually best to hire a river taxi. The héua hang nyáo (longtail boats) are the most common and cost around US$10 an hour.
Along the upper Mekong River between Huay Xai and Vientiane, Thai-built héua wái (speedboats) are common. They can cover a distance in six hours that might take a ferry two days or more. Charters cost at least US$30 per hour, but some ply regular routes so the cost can be shared among passengers. They are, however, rather dangerous and we recommend taking one only if absolutely necessary.
Tours
With public boat routes becoming increasingly hard to find, tour companies are offering kayaking and rafting trips on some of the more scenic stretches of river. The best places to organise these are Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng, Tha Khaek and Pakse.
For something a bit more luxurious, Mekong Cruises (www.mekong-cruises.com) and Mekong River Cruises both offer multiday cruises along the Mekong on refurbished river barges.
TYPES OF BOAT
Following are some of the héua (boats) that you may encounter in your adventures along Laos' many waterways:
Héua sáh (double-deck slowboats) Big, old boats; almost extinct.
Héua dooan (express boat) Roofed cargo boats, common on the Huay Xai–Luang Prabang route. Still slow, but faster than double-deck boats.
Héua wái (speedboat) These resemble a surfboard with a car engine strapped to the back: very fast, exhilarating, deafeningly loud, uncomfortable and rather dangerous. Not recommended.
Héua hăhng nyáo (longtail boat) Boats with the engine gimbal-mounted on the stern; found all over Laos.
Héua pái (row boat) Essentially a dugout; common in Si Phan Don.
Bus & Sŏrngtăaou
Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sŏrngtăaou (literally 'two rows'), which are converted pick-ups or trucks with benches down either side. Private operators have established VIP buses on some busier routes, offering faster and more luxurious air-con services that cost a little more than normal buses. Many guesthouses can book tickets for a small fee.
Sŏrngtăaou usually service shorter routes within a given province. Most decent-sized villages have at least one sŏrngtăaou, which will run to the provincial capital and back most days.
Car & Motorcycle
Driving in Laos is easier than it looks. Sure, the road infrastructure is pretty basic, but outside of the large centres there are so few vehicles that it's a doddle compared to Vietnam, China or Thailand.
Motorcyclists planning to ride through Laos should check out the wealth of information at Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com). Doing some sort of motorbike loop out of Vientiane is becoming increasingly popular among travellers.
Bring Your Own Vehicle
Bringing a vehicle into Laos is easy enough if you have proof of ownership and a carnet. Simply get the carnet stamped at any international border and there is no extra charge or permit required.
Coming from Thailand, which doesn't recognise the carnet system, an International Transport Permit, known in Thailand as the lêm sĕe môoang (purple book), is required. This is available at Nong Khai's Land Transport Office (%042-411591, ext 103; 
h8.30am-4.30pm). You'll need your vehicle's official registration book and tax receipts, your passport and an international driving permit or Thai driver's licence.
On the Lao side you'll need all the documents mentioned above and will also need to arrange Lao vehicle insurance (about 300B for a week).
Exiting into Thailand or Cambodia is fairly hassle-free if your papers are in order. Vietnam is a different story and it is probably best not to even consider a crossing. Heading to China it's virtually impossible to drive a vehicle larger than a bicycle across the border.
Driving Licences
Officially at least, to drive in Laos a valid international driving permit is required. If you're only renting motorbikes you'll never be asked for any sort of licence.
Fuel & Spare Parts
At the time of research fuel cost about US$1 a litre for petrol, slightly less for diesel. Fuel for motorcycles is available from drums or Beerlao bottles in villages across the country, although prices are almost always higher than at service stations. Diesel is available in most towns. It's best to fuel up in bigger towns at big-brand service stations because the quality of fuel can be poor in remote areas.
Spare parts for four-wheeled vehicles are expensive and difficult to find, even in Vientiane.
Hire
Chinese- and Japanese-made 100cc and 110cc step-through motorbikes can be hired for approximately 40,000K to 100,000K per day in most large centres and some smaller towns, although the state of the bikes can vary greatly. No licence is required. Try to get a Japanese bike if travelling any distance out of town. In Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Tha Khaek and Pakse, 250cc dirt bikes are available from around US$25 to US$50 per day.
It's possible to hire a self-drive vehicle, but when you consider that a driver usually costs no more, takes responsibility for damage and knows where he's going, it looks risky. Costs run from US$40 to US$100 per day, depending on the route.
Vientiane-based Avis is a reliable option for car hire. When it comes to motorbikes, try Drivenbyadventure or Fuark Motorcycle Hire in Vientiane.
Insurance
Car-hire companies will provide insurance, but be sure to check exactly what is covered. Note that most travel-insurance policies don't cover use of motorcycles.
Road Conditions
While the overall condition of roads is poor, work over the last decade has left most of the main roads in reasonable shape.
Elsewhere, unsurfaced roads are the rule. Laos has about 23,000km of classified roads and less than a quarter are sealed. Unsurfaced roads are particularly tricky in the wet season when many routes are impassable to all but 4WD vehicles and motorbikes, while in the dry season the clouds of dust kicked up by passing traffic makes travel highly uncomfortable, especially in a sŏrngtăaou or by motorbike. Bring a face mask. Wet or dry, Laos is so mountainous that relatively short road trips can take forever.
Road Hazards
Try to avoid driving at dusk and after dark: cows, buffaloes, chickens and dogs, not to mention thousands of people, head for home on the unlit roads, turning them into a dangerous obstacle course.
Road Rules
The single most important rule to driving in Laos is to expect the unexpected. Driving is on the right side, but it's not unusual to see Lao drivers go the wrong way down the left lane before crossing over to the right, a potentially dangerous situation if you're not ready for it. At intersections it's normal to turn right without looking left.
Motorcycle Tips
There are few more liberating travel experiences than renting a motorbike and setting off; stopping where you want, when you want. The lack of traffic and stunningly beautiful roads make Laos one of the best places in the region to do it. There are, however, a few things worth knowing before you hand over your passport as collateral to rent a bike.
The bike Price and availability mean that the vast majority of travellers rent Chinese 110cc bikes. No 110cc bike was designed to be used like a dirt bike, but Japanese bikes deal with it better and are worth the extra few dollars a day.
The odometer Given that many roads have no kilometre stones and turn-offs are often unmarked, it's worth getting a bike with a working odometer. Most bike shops can fix an odometer in about 10 minutes for a few dollars. Money well spent, as long as you remember to note the distance when you start.
The gear Don't leave home without sunscreen, a hat, a plastic raincoat or poncho, a bandanna and sunglasses. Even the sealed roads in Laos get annoyingly dusty, so these last two are vital. A helmet is essential (ask for one if they don't offer), as is wearing trousers and shoes, lest you wind up with the ubiquitous leg burn.
The problems Unless you're very lucky, something will go wrong. Budget some time for it.
The responsibility In general, you can ride a motorbike in Laos without a licence, a helmet or any safety gear whatsoever, but for all this freedom you must take all the responsibility. If you have a crash, there won't be an ambulance to pick you up, and when you get to the hospital, facilities will be basic. Carrying a basic medical kit and phone numbers for hospitals in Thailand and your travel insurance provider is a good idea. The same goes for the bike. If it really dies you can't just call the company and get a replacement. You'll need to load it onto the next pick-up or sŏrngtăaou and take it somewhere they can fix it. Don't abandon it by the road, or you'll have to pay for another one.
Local Transport
Although most town centres are small enough to walk around, even relatively small settlements often place their bus stations several kilometres out of town.
Bus
Vientiane is the only city with a network of local buses, though, with the exception of a few key recommended routes, they're not much use to travellers.
Sŏrngtăaou, Jumbo, Săhm-Lór & Tuk-tuk
The various pick-ups and three-wheeled taxis found in Vientiane and provincial capitals have different names depending on where you are. Largest are the sŏrngtăaou, which double as buses in some areas and as local buses around bigger towns. Larger three-wheelers are called jąmbǫh (jumbo) and can hold four to six passengers on two facing seats. In Vientiane they are sometimes called tuk-tuks as in Thailand (though traditionally in Laos this refers to a slightly larger vehicle than the jumbo). These three-wheeled conveyances are also labelled simply taak-see (taxi) or, usually for motorcycle sidecar-style vehicles, săhm-lór (three-wheels). The old-style bicycle săhm-lór (pedicab), known as a cyclo elsewhere in Indochina, is an endangered species in Laos.
Taxi
Vientiane has a handful of taxis that are used by foreign business people and the occasional tourist, while in other cities a taxi of sorts can be arranged. They can be hired by the trip, by the hour or by the day. Typical all-day hire within a town or city costs between US$35 and US$50, subject to negotiations.
Train
Currently Laos has just 3km of railway line connecting Nong Khai to Vientiane Prefecture via the Friendship Bridge. Plans are underway to extend this line to central Vientiane, and eventually connect with a Chinese-funded railway line from Kunming to Vientiane via Luang Prabang, which is currently under construction.