Textiles by McDonald, Fiona -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Dedication Title Page Copyright Page Table of Contents Introduction Timeline PART I - The Raw Materials

CHAPTER ONE - Plant Fibres

Flax in China Egyptian linen Pliny the Elder Processing flax Flax on the move Flax and hemp facts at a glance Sisal Jute Hemp Nettle Note

CHAPTER TWO - Plant Fibres

Cotton in two continents The Indus Valley Cotton in Egypt The Greeks Cotton arrives in Europe Meanwhile, across the Atlantic … South America Cotton in Britain Cotton in America Eli Whitney’s Cotton Gin Slave labour leads to American Civil War Going back in time to the English Invasion of India … England buys American cotton Cotton mills of England Back in America Back in Britain … Egyptian Cotton What happened to cotton in India? Cotton in the Twentieth Century But what is cotton? Properties of Cotton Processing of Cotton Cotton’s worst nightmare Notes

CHAPTER THREE - Animal Fibres

Prehistoric wool The wool industry in England Flanders enters the field Here come the Italians Flanders is squeezed out of the market Florence as master cloth makers Merchants, merchants everywhere: foreign merchants in England Italian finance Guilds Organisation of medieval mercantile guilds Decay of the guilds Merchants of the Staple Hanseatic League Wool in the Time of Chaucer Wool in Tudor times Weaver makes good The Merchant Adventurers of London Friction between the Staples and the Adventurers The Domestic System Wool in Nineteenth Century Wool in the Twentieth Century Wool in Australia Shearing sheep Worsted processing Wool processing Some of the major sheep wool types Parasites and other problems Notes

CHAPTER FOUR - Silk

The Legend Discovery and early production of Chinese silk Silk follows the trade routes The secret is out Silk in Rome Chinese silk weavers in Persia Mechanisation in China Independent silk development outside of China Production of silk in the West Byzantine silk Silk production in Europe Silk in the colonies Silk weaving in Britain Espionage and murder Silk in Ireland The Queen wears mauve silk and then black Thai silk Cultivated Silk Process Life cycle of Bombyx mori Spinning the cocoon What happens next Waste silk Wild silk Wild silk moth types Glossary specifically for silk, including imitation silk

PART TWO - Processing

CHAPTER FIVE - Spinning

The first twisted thread The spindle Spindle whorls Make it yourself The distaff Evidence of plying The Great Wheel The Saxony Wheel Origin of the word spinster Origin of the word draper Industrial spinning John Kay – the flying shuttle James Hargreaves – the spinning jenny Richard Arkwright – the water frame Samuel Crompton – the spinning mule Edward Cartwright – the power loom What was happening in America? From cotton to guns Wool in America Ring-spinning frame James Watt and the steam engine

CHAPTER SIX - Weaving

Tapestry Note

CHAPTER SEVEN - Felting

How Felt is Made Felt Hats Try it yourself Needle Felting Felt as Art Note

CHAPTER EIGHT - Knitting

More early knitting Two Needle Knitting Two needles, more needles or one? Joseph’s coat of many colours Sailors Men knitting in the Twentieth Century War Knitting for charity Knitting samples French knitting Finger knitting William Lee and the knitting machine Crochet Lace Note

PART THREE - Surface Decoration

CHAPTER NINE - Dyeing

Yellow Red Orange Blue Green and Purple Natural Mordants Chemical dyes Ways of dyeing Tie-dyeing Batik

CHAPTER TEN - Printing and Painting

Woodblock Perrotine printing Engraved copperplate printing Roller printing, cylinder printing, or machine printing Stencil printing Screen printing Digital textile printing Preparation of cloth for printing Painting

CHAPTER ELEVEN - Embroidery

Quilting Canvas Work Embroidery Stitch Glossary

PART FOUR - The Industrial Revolution

CHAPTER TWELVE - The Industrial Revolution

Before the revolution The Beginning of Mechanisation The Major Inventors The Factory System The Industrial Revolution Pollution Land Enclosure Women and children in the work force Real Reform? Fluff The Sewing Machine Isaac Singer Notes

PART FIVE - Textiles in the Modern World

CHAPTER THIRTEEN - Man-made Fibres

Nylon Man-made Fibre Glossary

CHAPTER FOURTEEN - Fibre Art

Glenys Mann Lisa Lichtenfels Kaffe Fassett Brandon Mably Jan Garside Vicki Taylor Vanessa Taylor Helen Evans Judy Wilford Note

CHAPTER FIFTEEN - Literary Textiles – Quotes, Metaphors etc. CHAPTER SIXTEEN - Care of Textiles

Storage and Display

Glossary Textile Places of Interest Bibliography Acknowledgements Index