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Index
Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide
Title
Dedication
Copyright
Contents
Introduction
How to Use This Book
Chapter 1
Anchor Basics
Types of Climbing Anchors
Forces on Climbing Anchors
How Many Anchors?
How Important Is Equalization?
V-Angle
Pulley Effect
Multidirectional Anchors
Climber Attachment to the Anchors
Belaying the Second
Belaying the Leader
Rock Type and Quality
Chapter 2
Natural and Fixed Anchors
Natural Anchors
Fixed Anchors
Chapter 3
Chocks
Evolution of Climbing Chocks
Wired Nuts
Hexagonal Chocks
Tricams
Sliding Nuts
Expandable Tubes
Size and Strength of Chocks
Chapter 4
Cams
Cam Evolution
Setting and Removing Cams
Good and Bad Cam Placements
Cam Testing
Cam Design
Chapter 5
Top-Rope and Rappel Anchors
Slingshot Top Rope
Top Belay
Rappel Anchors
Chapter 6
Sport Climbing and Bolted Anchors
Clipping Bolts
Rigging Bolted Anchors for Lowering and Top-Roping
Multipitch Bolted Anchors
Chapter 7
Traditional Belay Anchors
Belay Station
Belay Rigging Methods
Chapter 8
Gym Anchors
Belaying in the Gym
Slingshot Top-Rope Use
Auto-Belay Use
Lead Anchors
Anchors and Performance
Chapter 9
Trad Leading
Trad Climbing Gear Selection
Protecting the Climb
Duties of the Leader
Chapter 10
Climbing Forces
Newton’s Laws of Motion
Potential and Kinetic Energy
Impact Force
Momentum and Impulse
Strength of Climbing Gear
Acknowledgments
Appendix 1: Webbing, Cord, and Carabiners
Appendix 2: Knots
Appendix 3: Equations
Glossary
Resources
Index
About the Authors
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