Chapter 10

Shaping

Knit and purl stitches are the basic building blocks of knitting. Increases and decreases let you stretch, compress, and shape these building blocks to create everything from lace shawls to tailored garments.

Increases

Q: What is an increase, and how do I do one?

A: Increases (inc) make your knitting wider by adding stitches. For example, sleeves fit better if they are tapered so that the wrist is narrower than the upper sleeve. Sleeves are usually begun from the bottom, with increases worked periodically along the seam line.

There are many ways to increase. Here are the ones that I find most useful:

• Knit-Front-and-Back (Kfb). Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle. Bring the tip of the right needle around to the back, knit into the back loop of the same stitch, and slip it off the needle. This increase leaves a small bar or bump at the base of the second stitch, so it is sometimes called a bar increase. Some people find the bump unsightly, but it can be an effective decorative detail.
  

  knit into front and back

• Make 1, Working Yarn (M1). I first encountered this increase in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Without Tears (see Resources). Simply make a half hitch, as for a Loop Cast On, with the working yarn on the right needle. You can twist this either to the right or to the left to control the slant that appears at the base of the increase. If it seems a little loose, knit into either the back or front to twist it more on the ­following row.
  

See also: knitting or purling into the back loop

• Make 1, Lifted (M1). This makes an increase identical in structure to a Make 1 with the working yarn, but is tighter and appears one row lower. Insert the left needle under the strand between two needles from the back to lift this strand onto the left needle (A). Knit into the front of the strand to twist it (B). To reverse the twist, insert the left needle from the front (C), and then knit into the back of the loop (D).
  
• Lifted (also called Raised or Row-Below). Knit the stitch normally. Then, from the back, insert the left needle into the stitch two rows below (A). Knit into this stitch. To reverse the slant, reverse the order: Lift the stitch from the row below with the right needle and knit it (B), then knit the stitch normally. You may find it easier to lift with the right needle and place it on the left needle before knitting.
  

  lifted increase, left slant

  

  lifted increase, right slant

• Yarnover (yo). This forms a hole in your knitting to make lace or eyelets. Wrap the yarn around your right needle as if you were knitting a stitch. On the next row, knit or purl into this loop as you would any stitch.
• Eyelet. This makes a smaller hole than a yarnover and forms it one row lower. Insert the left needle under the strand between two stitches from the front, then knit into the front so it does not twist.
  

  eyelet

See also: The Yarnover

Q: What are paired increases? Why do you do them and how?

A: These are increases done two at a time mirroring each other. They are used to create decorative effects within pattern stitches or to make two edges of a knitted piece symmetrical, such as the two sides of a V-neck. To work them, use an increase that can slant in either of two directions, such as the Make 1, or the Lifted increase. Work the first increase in the pair in one direction and the second in the opposite, reversing the twist of the Make 1 increases or the order of the steps in the Lifted increase.

right-slanting M1 and left-slanting M1 with three stitches between

Yarnovers don’t slant in either direction, so they can be used in pairs and will always look symmetrical. Just put at least one stitch between them.

two yarnovers with a single stitch between

The Knit-Front-and-Back increase cannot be reversed, but two of them worked next to each other will look symmetrical, with a stitch apparently separating them. To make them ­symmetrical at the outer edges, work the Kfb at the end of the row one stitch farther away than the Kfb at the beginning of the row. For example, at the beginning of the row, work K1, Kfb; and at the end of the row, when 3 stitches remain, work Kfb, K2. At both edges, the characteristic bump or bar will appear two stitches away from the edge.

two Kfbs with no stitch between

Q: What are double increases? How do you do them and why?

A: The increases described previously are all single increases; they add just one stitch at a time. A double increase adds two stitches each time you work it. Like the single increase, there are many ways to work a double increase:

• Knit-Front-Back-Front. Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle. Bring the tip of the right needle around to the back, knit into the back loop of the stitch, and still leave it on the left needle. Bring the tip of the right needle to the front and knit into the stitch again. Finally, slip it off the needle. This increase looks knotted and slightly messy.
• Knit-Purl-Knit. Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front and purl into the stitch (A). Bring the yarn to the back and knit into the stitch. Finally, slip it off the needle (B). This leaves a small hole below the increases, which fan out above, and may be used as an embellishment.
  

  knit-purl-knit double increase

• Knit-Yarnover-Knit. Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle. Wrap the yarn once around the right needle, then knit into the stitch again. This produces an eyelet and looks like a slightly smoother version of the Knit-Purl-Knit. If you like, it’s easy to work the purled version of this — just Purl–Yarnover–Purl into a single stitch.
  

  knit-yo-knit double increase

• Double Yarnover. Wrap the yarn twice around the needle. When you come to this double wrap on the following row, you’ll need to knit into the first loop, then bring the yarn forward and purl into the second loop. Or you can reverse the order, making a purl followed by a knit. This makes a large eyelet.

Q: Is there a way to work more than two increases in a single stitch?

A: Yes. You can knit into the front and back of a stitch as many times as you like. You can also alternately knit and purl into a stitch multiple times or alternate knits or purls with yarnovers multiple times. These multiple increases are frequently used in bobble or popcorn patterns.

Q: I know there are different ways to work a Make 1. Is one better than the others?

A: The Lifted Make 1 “steals” a little bit of yarn from the two stitches on either side when it is lifted and twisted to form the new stitch. If you are a loose knitter, this may be a benefit because it prevents a hole from appearing when you increase. If you are a tight knitter, are using a yarn that doesn’t stretch, or find that the Lifted Make 1 noticeably distorts the stitches on either side, it’s better to use the Make 1 with the working yarn.

Q: When I use paired Make 1 increases, one twists more than the other. Why does this happen?

A: When you knit or purl a Make 1 Left, it doesn’t add any more twist; but when you work a Make 1 Right, it adds another half turn. In order to make them identical, you can twist the Make 1 Right less by working into the back of it when you knit (or purl) it. Or you can add more twist to the Make 1 Left by working into the back of it.

Q: My pattern says to increase. How do I know which increase to use?

A: Check the introduction and any explanatory material, such as the abbreviations, to see if the pattern explains which increase to use. If you can’t find it, you’ll need to do a little math to see whether to use the type of increase in which you work twice into a stitch (Knit-Front-and-Back), or one of the increases that is done between stitches (Make 1, or Lifted).

See also: What Does It Mean When It Says . . . ?

Q: Why are most increases worked on the knit side?

A: It’s easy to see how they’ll look in the finished knitting when worked on the knit side.

Q: Is it possible to increase on the purl side?

A: Yes. All of the increases described earlier can be easily done on the wrong side. Knitting and purling into one stitch results in what looks like two purl stitches on the right side of the fabric, but you can mimic the same increase from the wrong side by purling and then knitting. When working Lifted increase from the purl side, be careful to lift up the correct strand of the stitch.

Q: Why would I increase rather than cast on?

A: Increases are worked when only one or two stitches at a time need to be added or when they must be done in the center of the knitting. Casting on is done at the beginning of a row and is used to add more than one stitch at the edge of the fabric.

Decreases

Q: What is a decrease, and how do I do one?

A: Decreases (dec) make your knitting narrower by removing stitches. They are done as part of a pattern stitch or to shape a piece of knitting. Here are various ways to decrease:

• Knit 2 Together (K2tog). Insert the right needle into the first two stitches and knit them together. This is the most basic decrease and can be used any time you are knitting. It makes a decrease that slants to the right.
  

  knit 2 together

• Purl 2 Together (P2tog). Insert the right needle into the first two stitches and purl them together. This can be used any time you are purling. When worked on the wrong side of the fabric, it looks identical to a K2tog worked on the right side of the fabric.
  

  purl 2 together

• Slip 1-Knit 1-Pass Slipped Stitch Over (skp). Slip the first stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over the knit and off the needle (as you would when binding off). This makes a decrease that slants to the left, the opposite of K2tog, although it has a tendency to look less even.
  

  slip 1-knit 1-pass slipped stitch over

• Slip-Slip-Knit (ssk). Slip the first stitch knitwise, slip the second stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these two stitches, and knit them together. This also makes a decrease that slants to the left, the opposite of a K2tog, but it is more even and pairs better with the K2tog than does skp.
  

  slip-slip-knit

• Knit 2 Together through the Back Loops (K2tog-tbl). Insert the right needle into the back of the first two stitches knitwise and knit them together. This forms a left-slanting decrease that twists the stitches, but it is a quick substitute for ssk when worked in a dark or textured yarn, where it won’t show.
  

  knit 2 together through back loops

• Purl 2 Together through the Back Loops (P2tog-tbl). Insert the right needle into the back of the first two stitches purlwise and purl them together. This forms a left-slanting twisted decrease. It is much quicker than ssp and is identical to K2tog-tbl when worked from the wrong side of the fabric. It’s best employed when the yarn is dark or textured, so the twisted stitches don’t show.
  

  purl 2 together through back loops

• Slip-Slip-Purl (ssp). Slip 1 stitch knitwise and slip another stitch knitwise (A). Pass both of the slipped stitches back to the left needle without changing their orientation (B). Purl the 2 stitches together through the back loops (C). This decrease leans to the left on both the knit and the purl side of the fabric (D). It’s the equivalent of an ssk worked on the right side of the fabric.
  

  slip-slip-purl

Notes for Nonstandard Stitches

If your stitches don’t face the standard way on the needle, then you’ll need to adjust for this when working decreases.

• Left-slanting decrease. K2tog working into the back loops as you normally do. The results are identical to ssk worked on standard stitches.
• Right-slanting decrease. Slip two stitches, one at a time, to the right needle, inserting the needle knitwise into the back of the loop. Slip these stitches back to the left needle, one at a time, inserting the needle from the front so the orientation of the stitches changes. Finally, K2tog through the front of the loops.

See also: The Slipped Stitch and Twists and Turns

Q: I followed the directions for the ssk decrease, but my stitches are twisted. Why did this happen?

A: This happens if you slip the stitches purlwise. In the first step, you must slip the two stitches individually knitwise. This makes them change position on the needle so each stitch is facing in the opposite direction. Then, when you knit them together, they won’t be twisted.

Q: What is a double decrease? When would I use it?

A: The decreases just described are all single decreases, eliminating just one stitch at a time. Double decreases (DD) remove two stitches at a time. Use them to decrease more rapidly than is possible using single decreases (such as when making a ruffle), to work decreases in a pattern stitch with a two-stitch repeat (such as K1, P1 ribbing), or as part of a decorative pattern stitch. They are frequently used where decreases for shaping are done in pairs, such as at the shoulders of a raglan-sleeved sweater or the top of a beret.

• Knit 3 Together (K3tog). This is the most basic of double decreases. Simply insert the right needle into the first three stitches and knit them together. This makes an asymmetrical decrease that slants to the right and is noticeably thick because of the three overlapping stitches.
  

  knit 3 together

• Purl 3 Together (P3tog). Insert the right needle into the first three stitches and purl them together. Like the knit version, it is thick and asymmetrical.
  

  purl 3 together

• Slip 1-Knit 2 Together-Pass Slipped Stitch Over (sk2p). Slip the first stitch knitwise, knit the next two stitches together (A), and then pass the slipped stitch off over the knit stitch (B), as if you were binding off. This makes a decrease that is less lumpy than K3tog and has a definite slant to the left.
  

  slip 1-knit 2 together-pass slipped stitch over

• Slip-Slip-Slip-Knit (sssk). This decrease is worked exactly like the ssk, except that 3 stitches are slipped and worked together. Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, slip a 3rd stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these 3 stitches, and knit them together. This double decrease leans to the left, the opposite direction from a K3tog.
• Slip-Slip-Slip-Purl (sssp). This decrease is worked exactly like the ssp, except that 3 stitches are slipped and worked together. Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, and slip a 3rd stitch knitwise. Pass all 3 slipped stitches back to the left needle, being careful not to change their orientation and purl them together through the back loops. This double decrease leans to the left, the opposite direction from a P3tog.
• Centered Double Decrease (cdd). Insert the right needle knitwise into the first two stitches, as if to knit them together, but instead simply slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch (A), then pass the two slipped stitches over it and off the needle (B). This results in a decrease that is centered, with the middle stitch on top, so there is no slant.
  

  centered double decrease

What Does It Mean When It Says . . . ?

• Increase 1 stitch at each edge every 6 rows 12 times, then every 4 rows 7 times. This is used to slope both sides of your knitting, for example, on a sleeve. “Increase 1 stitch at each edge” means to increase 1 stitch at the beginning and 1 at the end of the row. “Every 6 rows 12 times” means to work the increases on 1 row, then work 5 more rows without increasing. This pattern is repeated 12 times, resulting in an increase of 24 stitches (2 stitches × 12 times) in 72 rows (6 rows × 12 times). At this point, you step up the frequency of the increases by working only 3 rows between increase rows (“then every 4 rows 7 times”: another 14 stitches in just 28 rows).
• Increase 8 stitches evenly spaced across row. This is frequently found at the end of a ribbed border. Increase a total of 8 stitches (or however many are specified), spaced as evenly as possible across the row. Place a safety pin, split marker, or locking marker for each increase stitch at the points where you want to increase. To determine the placement, divide your knitting in half, then in quarters, and place one-quarter of the markers in each section. Or calculate the placement mathematically. From your total number of stitches on the needle, subtract 2 to allow for edge stitches, and then divide by 1 fewer than the required increases to get the number of stitches between increases. If your numbers don’t work out evenly, simply divide the extra stitches between the ends. When you work your increases, remember that a Knit-Front-Back increase uses one of the stitches, so be sure to count it as the first stitch in each group. On the other hand, if you use a Make 1 or a Lifted Make 1 increase, these are done between stitches, so you’ll have all the stitches of each group between the increases.
• Reverse shaping. Do this when a section of a garment needs to be a mirror image of another section; for example, the two fronts of a cardigan, on which the armhole and neck shaping must match. Say you worked the left front first and bound off for the armhole at the beginning of a right-side row. To reverse shaping for the right front, simply work 1 more row before beginning the armhole, and bind off for the underarm at the beginning of the next row, which will be a wrong-side row. To reverse the shape of the neck, which was bound off at the beginning of a wrong-side row on the left front, again work 1 more row, and bind off at the beginning of a right-side row.
  

  two fronts of a cardigan form a mirror image

• Work both sections at the same time with separate balls of yarn. This is done when working the shoulders of a sweater or vest, after you bind off the center neck. Use 2 balls of working yarn (or knit from both the center and the outside of a center-pull ball or skein). With the stitches for both shoulders still on the needle, separated by the gap for the neckline, work across 1 shoulder toward the center, using the original ball of yarn, until you reach the bound-off area. At the gap, leave that yarn dangling, and use the yarn from your second ball to work across the second shoulder. When you reach the end of the row, turn and work back toward the neck with this second ball of yarn. When you reach the neck opening again, switch to the ball of yarn attached to the other shoulder. Continue working across both shoulders (each with its own ball of yarn) on every row.
  

  work both shoulders at the same time

• Bind off 2 stitches at each neck edge every other row 3 times. Do this after you’ve bound off the center stitches to ­create a neck opening and joined a second ball of yarn (see above). Groups of bound-off stitches are used to make a curved edge. Because you can bind off only at the beginning of a row, you’ll bind off the right neck on right-side rows and the left on wrong-side rows. Starting from the armhole edge, work across to the neck opening. Leave the yarn dangling and pick up the yarn for the other side of the neck. In this example, bind off 2 stitches and work to the end of the row. Turn and work the next row back to the neck edge. Leave this yarn dangling and pick up the other yarn. Bind off 2 stitches and then work to the end of the row. You’ve completed 2 rows, and you’ve bound off the first 2 stitches at each neck edge. For this example, repeat all of this twice more to complete the process.
• Decrease 1 stitch at each neck edge every other row 3 times. This is usually the last step after binding off the center of the neck and then binding off groups of stitches at each side of the neck, as in the previous direction. The decreases finish the shaping to make a curve. They are also used to create the diagonal of a V-neck. As above, work with 2 balls of yarn, 1 for each side of the neck opening. When working decreases every other row, it’s easiest to do them on the right side of the fabric, so you can see how they look.

  Starting from the armhole edge on a right-side row, work across until 3 stitches remain before the neck opening, K2tog, then knit the last stitch. Leave the yarn dangling, and pick up the yarn for the other side of the neck. Knit 1, ssk, then work to the end of the row. Turn, and work the next row back to the neck edge. Leave this yarn dangling and pick up the other yarn. Work to the end of the row. You’ve completed 2 rows, and you’ve decreased 1 stitch at each neck edge. Repeat all of this twice more. For this example, the decreases are worked 1 stitch in from the edge, which makes it easier to pick up stitches for the border later. The reason for using the K2tog decrease on one side of the neck and the ssk decrease on the other is that they are mirror images of each other, and this detail makes the two neck edges look symmetrical. You may prefer to reverse their positions for a slightly different effect.

• Increase, decrease, or bind off on the next right-side row and all alternate rows. Do this when you want to make a diagonal or sloped edge. Work to the end of a wrong-side row. When you work the next right-side row, do whatever shaping the pattern indicates. After this, shaping continues on all alternate (right-side) rows. Another way to say this is “every other row.”

See also: Decreases Chapter 3, Binding Off, and Increases

Special Situations

Q: If a pattern says to increase or decrease at the beginning or end of the row, should I do it at the very edge of my knitting?

A: It’s best to do all increases and decreases at least 1 or 2 stitches away from the edge because these procedures tend to make the edge uneven. They can also make it very confusing to pick up stitches or to seam along the edge later. For example, to work decreases two stitches in from both edges of a sleeve, knit the first two stitches, ssk, and then work across the row until there are four stitches left. Next, K2tog and then knit the final two stitches. The two decreases mirror each other, and there are two stitches in Stockinette at each end of the row. Repeating this procedure for the length of the sleeve edges ensures a neat, even, easy-to-see edge when you sew it up.

The exception to this rule is when a yarnover is to be worked at the beginning of the row, before the first stitch. The resulting row of loops along the edge may be used ­decoratively, or it may be used later for joining.

Q: The instructions say to work “in pattern as established” while shaping the armholes and neck, but I’m having trouble doing this because of increases and decreases in the pattern stitch. I keep ending up with the wrong number of stitches. What should I do?

A: Shaping can be very confusing when you’re working a pattern stitch that already involves increases and decreases. As the piece becomes narrower or wider, one option is simply to work the incomplete pattern repeat at the edge in Stockinette or a very simple pattern stitch like Seed Stitch. Markers between pattern repeats make it easy to see where the pattern stitch begins and ends. Whenever you have enough stitches at the edge, work a full pattern repeat. This works well if the pattern repeat is narrow, but it can look terrible if it is wide. For wider patterns, you’ll need to maintain the pattern stitch as close to the edge as you can. One solution is to work half a pattern repeat in pattern and the remaining stitches in Stockinette.

When you are working a pattern stitch with increases and decreases, it’s important to understand how they interact. For each increase there is a corresponding decrease; otherwise, the total number of stitches would change. In some pattern stitches, corresponding increases and decreases are worked on the same row, so that you always have the same number of stitches in a row. The rule of thumb when doing shaping in these stitches is to work the corresponding increase and decrease only if there are enough stitches for both of them. In cases where there is a double decrease at the center of a pattern, you may need to substitute a single decrease when one of the corresponding increases falls beyond the edge of the fabric. You may encounter situations where the corresponding increase falls beyond the edge of the fabric, but you need to work a shaping decrease on that row anyway. In this case, work the pattern as written all the way to the edge; the missing increase in the pattern stitch takes the place of the decrease you would have worked.

In other patterns, the corresponding increases and decreases may be several rows apart, so you’ll have more stitches on some rows and fewer on others. In these cases, you’ll need to keep track of the corresponding increases and decreases over several rows.

Another helpful exercise is to graph the pattern stitch in relation to the shaping. It’s not necessary to graph the whole garment, just the section where the shaping takes place. For instance, chart a sweater from the armhole up to the shoulder and over to the center to include neck shaping.

See also: Chapter 7, Pattern Stitches

Q: I’m working a pattern with a two-stitch repeat. When I do increases or decreases, it messes up the pattern. Is there a way to avoid this?

A: Yes. Work double increases or double decreases instead of single ones. For example, if you are supposed to increase eight stitches evenly spaced, work four double increases instead. This way, you’ll add a full repeat of the ­pattern stitch at each increase point.

Q: Is there a good way to work an increase when I’m working with two colors in stranded knitting?

A: Yes. When it comes time to increase, knit a stitch with both strands held together. On the next row or round, treat the two strands as separate stitches.

Making a Shaped Swatch

Test the shaping on a swatch before you begin the garment. Once you have knit a swatch big enough to measure, bind off about 2" of stitches at the edge, then decrease one stitch on each right-side row for about 2". Work straight for another 3" or 4" before binding off. This produces the same shaping as an armhole and is very similar to one side of a neck opening. It gives you a chance to practice integrating shaping with your pattern stitch, and it’s extremely useful for picking up stitches and testing the border along the shaped edge.