t Catania’s city centre
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Start your journey in the hilltop town of Taormina, a train ride from Catania. After a visit to the Palazzo Corvaja, cool off with a dip in the sea at Isola Bella and dry off with lunch surfside. Stroll along the glamourous, boutique-lined Corso Umberto I before heading to the magnificent Greek Theatre, set against the stunning backdrop of Mount Etna. As evening draws in, enjoy sunset cocktails under the clock tower on Piazza IX Aprile before catching the train back to Catania.
Catch an early bus from Catania’s railway station to Etna’s base camp at Rifugio Sapienza (www.rifugiosapienza.com), where you’ll be whisked up to the volcano by cable car, and hike to the lava flows that surround the crater. Make your way down this lunar-like surface for a high-altitude coffee at the rifugio. Return to Catania for a burger at Fud Bottega Sicula (Via Santa Filomena 35) before a nightcap at Bohème (www.bohememixologybar.com).
Spend the morning immersed in the life of the renowned Italian composer Vincenzo Bellini at the Museo Civico Belliniano. After you’ve had your fill of his original scores and instruments, grab lunch at a café on Via Etnea, then stop for afternoon Catanese puppet theatre at Marionettistica Fratelli Napoli. Continue your cultural day with an evening concert at Teatro Bellini, arriving early for a pre-show aperitivo on Piazza Bellini. After the show, dine at Mè Cumpari (www.mecumparituriddu.it), a bistro-style eatery serving seasonal dishes.
Hire a car and drive to ancient Syracuse. Take your time exploring the ruins of the Roman and the Greek amphitheatres at Parco Archeologico Neapolis, sauntering over to experience the Ear of Dionysius in the Latomia del Paradiso area. After lunch at a family-run eatery, walk over to Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi to check out antiquities excavated from Southern Sicily. Bed down in Ortigia at the Hotel Gutkowski (www.guthotel.it) after dinner at their terrace restaurant.
Start the day cruising round Ortigia’s bustling morning market, then stroll from Duomo to Fonte Aretusa along Lungomare Alfeo, which has a wonderful terrace overlooking a pond. Enjoy a picnic on the water’s edge with an assortment of foods from the market. After an hour ducking in and out of boutiques along Corso Matteotti, take a break at A Putia (www.aputiadellecosebuone.it), a wine bar off Via Roma. Set aside the evening for dinner and drinks near Castello Maniace, where you’ll find restaurants and bars all along the sea wall. After your meal, walk to Piazzetta San Rocca to experience Ortigia’s buzzing nightlife.
Depart for Noto, with a pause en route for lunch in the picturesque town of Avola, famous for its robust red wine. Take your time marvelling at Noto’s superlative architecture and golden Baroque skyline, especially along Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Climb the steps that link to upper Noto Antica where ruins of the pre-earthquake old town remain. As evening approaches, dine on nouvelle cuisine at Ristorante Crocifisso (www.ristorantecrocifisso.it), heading to Caffè Sicilia for a gelato dessert.
The next stop is the tuna-fishing village of Marzamemi. Seek out the main piazza where La Cialoma (Piazza Regina Margherita 16) sets up outdoor tables on the public square. After lunch, continue to Modica, world-famous for its chocolate. Take a tour of Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest confection factory here, then head on to the Museo del Cioccolato di Modica (Corso Umberto I 149) to learn about the history of chocolate dating back to Columbian times. Dine on Sicilian dishes at Taverna Nicastro before settling in at B&B L’Orangerie (www.lorangerie.it).
Set out for the two-tiered town of Ragusa, beginning at the main piazza of Ragusa Ilba (lower town) where the impressive Duomo di San Giorgio can be admired. Work up an appetite souvenir shopping before finding a cosy bar that prepares food to go, to enjoy on a shady bench or grassy patch nearby. Walk over to the steps connecting Ragusa’s lower and upper sections to find the lovely Santa Maria delle Scale. If time permits, drive across the tallest viaduct in Europe to experience the views from the upper town, before splashing out on a two Michelin-starred dinner at the fabulous Ciccio Sultano Duomo.
Enjoy breakfast at Pasticceria di Pasquale (Corso Vittorio Veneto, Ragusa Superiore 104) before leaving for Caltagirone. Take a detour to Vittoria, renowned for its Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine, and buy a bottle from an artisanal shop in the historic centre. Then drive to Chiaramonte Gulfi to enjoy a relaxing lunch and see antique looms in the textile museum (Museo del Ricamo e dello Sfilato, Via Laurea 4). Upon arrival in Caltagirone, seek out a hotel in the historic centre before heading out for some drinks.
Avoid the queues and head to the popular Regional Ceramics Museum (Via Giardini Pubblic) early before prowling the shops in search of the perfect handmade pottery creations (arrange to ship home). Veer off onto a side street to discover an inconspicuous trattoria for a quiet lunch. No trip to Caltagirone is complete without climbing the majolica-tiled stairs up to Santa Maria del Monte, and the view from the top is worth the effort. Reward yourself with the ricotta puff pastries at Dolceria Scivoli (Viale Mario Milazzo 121) before a fresh seafood dinner at Il Locandiere (Via Luigi Sturgo 55).
Head to Piazza Amerina, home of the exquisite Villa Romana del Casale. Take your time exploring this remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site, then begin your journey to Agrigento, making a quick detour to survey Morgantina: the site of a Greek and Roman settlement. Back on the motorway, make a pit stop at the inland town of Enna for lunch. Pull into Agrigento and perk up with an espresso at Caffè Concordia before strolling around Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. For dinner, dine at Accademia del Buon Gusto (www.accademiadelbuongusto.it). Ask for a table on the terrace for the best view of the Temple of Concord, part of the the Valle dei Templi.
Get up close to the Valle dei Templi and avoid the mid-day heat with a morning tour, followed by a visit to the Archaeological Museum. Have lunch at the museum’s cafeteria then drive out to the coast to view the mystical and surreal Scala dei Turchi. Head back and dine in the centre of Agrigento, then make your way to the San Leone district for live music until the small hours.
Visit the remains of Selinus Acropolis at Selinunte, a heap of toppled Doric columns scattered around eight temple sites. Head over to nearby Castelvetrano, parking on a side street and continuing on foot to the main square for lunch. Next, take the coast road to the enchanting hilltop town of Erice, which towers high above the port of Trapani. Visit the Norman Castello di Venere at the mountain’s crest and the Cyclopean walls edging the northern side of town. Spend the late afternoon roaming the tiny patterned streets, zigzagging past houses hiding secret flowering courtyards. After dinner, sip a passito: a sweet dessert wine produced in the surrounding hills.
Drive to Segesta to witness the awesome, freestanding limestone temples and ancient amphitheatre. Stop at sleepy Mondello for a swim and lunch on the beach before ending your journey in nearby Palermo.
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t Catania’s city centre