Mountain goats scamper across a snowfield above Upper Robin Lakes (Hike 57).
Mountain goats scamper across a snowfield above Upper Robin Lakes (Hike 57).
DISTANCE: 8.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2100 feet
HIGH POINT: 4750 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 5 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: None
MAPS: USGS Snoqualmie Pass, USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4019°N, 121.3929°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right to the parking area for the Gold Creek Sno-Park during the winter. The rest of the year, continue 0.5 mile farther, on Forerst Road 9090, to the roadblock and park alongside the road.
Ideal for hikers seeking a quick escape, this taste of the wilderness awaits just a few miles from I-90. Its grade and distance make this route perfect for a wintertime romp through fresh powder, especially on snowshoes.
From the trailhead, Kendall Peak Lakes Trail #1344 is mostly decommissioned logging road, which makes for a leisurely stroll through alders and vine maples. Shrubbery quickly gives way to long views of stump-strewn clear-cuts, complete with young saplings struggling against low underbrush. The carefully carved slopes of the Snoqualmie ski area soon dominate the skyline, offering a contrast to the surrounding clear-cuts.
Recovering forest provides a view of Mount Rainier peeking over nearby mountaintops.
At 1.0 mile pass a junction with another logging road on the left, long ago decommissioned. Keep right and head up, staying on FR 9090 as it climbs a few switchbacks and then begins a long traverse, slowly pushing deeper into Coal Creek Valley while taking in even longer views of the Snoqualmie Valley.
At 3.0 miles, attain a ridgeline at a five-way intersection. Ignore the short spur roads leading straight ahead into the trees—they soon dead-end. The rightmost path leads out 0.25 mile to an overlook offering views of Keechelus Lake and the Gold Creek Valley, while the leftmost path continues up to Kendall Peak Lakes.
After the five-way intersection, the logging road begins to thin, and in 0.5 mile watch for a cairn indicating a boot path to the left leading to the lakes. Leave the logging road here and head toward the craggy mountaintops of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness on the roughly cut trail.
At 3.7 miles, reach the first meadow-bound lake. Really more pond than lake, these reedlined waters are surrounded by marsh, so watch your step. Here the trail becomes more intermittent, with boot paths branching off in dozens of directions. Let whimsy be your guide and choose the path of most appeal as most of the paths eventually work their way around the water and lead to the next lake.
The middle child of the Kendall Peak Lakes sits at the 3.9-mile mark and makes for more of a destination, but it pales in comparison to the last lake. The trick is finding the trail to access it. The well-worn path is among the talus near the lake’s inlet stream. When in doubt, follow your ears to find this shadowy path up the very steep mountainside. While the climb is tough enough to make it tempting to forgo this final climb, keep pressing upward; you will be well rewarded.
After slogging up about 200 feet, reach the shores of the last and largest of the Kendall Peak Lakes. Here at 4.2 miles from the trailhead, surrounded by steep cliffs and talus, the lake feels wild and remote, despite being less than a mile from the logging road. Unpack your lunch and enjoy.
Kendall Peak Lakes have always been seen more than visited. Couched in a cul-de-sac of mountain ridges, the three lakes were so often observed from the surrounding lofty heights that today we continue to refer to them as just that: lakes seen and accessed via Kendall Peak. Nowadays, extensive logging and the roads that go along with it have hewn a much easier route to Kendall Peak Lakes, though it was a high price to pay for ease of access, as the vast fields of clear-cut forest are still struggling to recover.
DISTANCE: 1.1 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: None
HIGH POINT: 2550 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 1 hour
BEST SEASON: Early spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Snoqualmie Pass; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3966°N, 121.3793°W
NOTE: This ADA-accessible trail works for strollers and wheelchairs, providing everyone a glimpse of the pond and surrounding landscape.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right, quickly reaching frontage road (Forest Road 4832). Turn right, following the road for approximately 1.5 miles to the signed Gold Creek Road (FR 142). Turn left and follow the road for 0.5 mile to the Gold Creek Pond parking lot and trailhead. Privy available.
The ADA-accessible Gold Creek Pond trails offers every hiker a taste of the wilderness.
Not every hike needs to be a multimile, hours-long trek deep into the wilderness. Sometimes a short walk to the edge of the wild is perfect, especially when it allows those in strollers and wheelchairs to get a taste of the lakes and rugged peaks that lie deep in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Gold Creek Pond is just that kind of walk: a short paved loop trail with satisfying views of the large pond and the craggy heights of Kendall Peak and Rampart Ridge.
From the trailhead, follow the Gold Creek Pond Trail #1250 a few hundred feet to the loop junction. Head right, following the trail alongside the pond’s outlet creek for 0.4 mile to reach the signed junction with the Gold Creek Trail #1314 veering off to the right.
Keep to the pavement, continuing around the pond. Cross over a bridge and through wetlands while pausing to read interpretive signs. Paths lead down to the water and wider views of the landscape. Take a moment here to take in the tree-lined pond, which boasts several little islands and peninsulas that add to its appeal.
As you circle the water, enjoy the greenery dotted with wildflowers in the late spring as you cross creeks on sturdy boardwalk. Your circuit is nearly complete when you pass a large picnic area with several tables, benches, and open grills. Stop for a snack or to take in the scenery before heading back to the parking area.
This easy, accessible jaunt has ample opportunities for less-seasoned hikers to enjoy at a comfortable pace. Popular throughout the year, Gold Creek Pond is perfect for those looking for a first-time snowshoe or a summertime amble for the whole family.
For a longer day hike, head down the Gold Creek Trail toward Alaska Lake (Hike 37), venturing into Lower Gold Creek Basin and crossing into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in 2.5 miles. This is also a very popular snowshoe destination, as the wide, flat basin provides a lot of room to roam through the powder.
Before the 1960s, Gold Creek Pond could not be found on any map. There was no body of water at all until the mid-1960s when construction of I-90 was in full swing. Then a pond suddenly appeared on USGS maps, labeled “Gravel Pit.” That is, in fact, what Gold Creek Pond is—a remnant of I-90’s construction when it served as a sand and gravel mine. It wasn’t until the 1980s that the area was repurposed for recreational use and developed into the destination we know today.
DISTANCE: 11.5 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1700 feet
HIGH POINT: 4200 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours or overnight
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3966°N, 121.3793°W
NOTES: Sections are not well maintained and can be brushy in summer. Use caution when fording the creeks in spring or after heavy rains.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right, quickly reaching frontage road (Forest Road 4832). Turn right, following the road for approximately 1.5 miles to the signed Gold Creek Road (FR 142). Turn left and follow the road for 0.5 mile to the Gold Creek Pond parking lot and trailhead. Privy available.
Alaska Lake in early July, still snowbound and ice-covered
Hike out to a stunningly beautiful alpine lake along a trail that begins easily but becomes increasingly challenging as obstacles, degraded trail tread, and very steep elevation gain slow your progress. Aside from a creek crossing and an avalanche area, it is a pleasant stroll to the Alaska Lake junction, and turning around here makes for an easy 10-mile outing. The hike-scramble up to Alaska Lake is significantly more challenging, but ultimately rewarding and well worth the slog up the mountainside.
From the trailhead, begin along the Gold Creek Pond Trail #1250, an ADA-accessible, strollerfriendly asphalt loop around the pond. Head right at the loop junction. In 0.4 mile, signs direct you off the pavement and onto a series of private roads that meander for 1.4 miles before reaching the actual trail.
The Gold Creek Trail #1314 is fairly level and pleasant; the creek accompanies you through thimbleberry and vine maple, which slowly yield to hemlock and cedar. At 2.5 miles, just after you enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, you reach the 2002 avalanche area, an abrupt wasteland of rocks and fallen logs. On the plus side, the avalanche stripped the vegetation from the cliffs of Rampart Ridge above and exposed a few small waterfalls tumbling down to Gold Creek.
After you navigate the avalanche area, at 4.0 miles is a ford of Gold Creek. During the height of summer when the water is low, the crossing can be done without getting your feet wet. During the spring or after heavy rains, fording the creek can be treacherous, so use caution. Once across, you’ll ford Silver Creek in 0.2 mile before continuing to the “end” of the trail at 5.0 miles, with a sign pointing you toward Alaska and Joe Lakes and glibly stating “trail not maintained beyond this point.” This is an understatement. To reach Alaska Lake, veer left following the Alaska Lake Trail #1314.1 as it begins its ascent.
The rocky trek up to Alaska Lake is only 0.75 mile but demands 1000 feet of elevation gain. The boot path follows Alaska Creek through groves of slide alder and vine maple, alternating between climbing abandoned creek beds and clambering over talus fields. It is not an easy trek, but Alaska Creek is little more than one long waterfall cascade, and the views of the Gold Creek Valley and Alta Mountain are worth the attempt. Alaska Lake is a nice little destination tucked beneath Alaska Mountain and the Pacific Crest Trail, with a couple of pleasant campsites along the lakeshore.
For the more adventurous, the Gold Creek Trail continues past the Alaska Lake junction another 2.0 miles up to Joe Lake, though some significant bushwhacking may be required depending on the time of year. A lighter addition might be a quick tour around the Gold Creek Pond Trail (Hike 36), which adds only 0.7 mile while providing some long views of Gold Creek Basin, Kendall Peak, and Rampart Ridge.
With names like Gold Creek and Silver Creek, it’s not surprising to learn that the Gold Creek Trail started out in the 1880s as a prospecting trail following the creek to various claims in the valley. The trail soon became a well-graded road allowing mining companies easy access to the Snoqualmie Wagon Road and the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, and Pacific Railroad that opened in 1909. The wagon road crossed over Gold Creek near the north end of Keechelus Lake much as I-90 does today. Over a few decades, miners dug hundreds of feet of tunnel into mountainsides above Gold Creek Basin, though most have collapsed since the mining heyday ended in the 1930s.
As times changed and mining gave way to recreation, the trail deteriorated and all but disappeared. In the 1970s, the Forest Service rescued the route, and for the next thirty years, snowshoers and hikers enjoyed the gentle trip through the valley. In 2002 large swaths of the trail were destroyed by a massive avalanche that tumbled down the east side of the valley and splashed up the other side, leaving thousands of downed trees in its wake. Today, the Forest Service and volunteers have carved something of trail out of the debris, but portions remain a challenge to navigate.
DISTANCE: 5.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1700 feet in; 300 feet out
HIGH POINT: 5500 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 5 to 7 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: None
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3906°N, 121.3474°W
NOTE: Between the trailhead and the Lake Lillian Trail #1332, the trail is not well maintained.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right, quickly reaching frontage road (Forest Road 4832). Turn right, following the road for about 2.5 miles before it turns to gravel. Continue on FR 4832 for 1 mile or so to an intersection at the end of a switchback. Instead of turning uphill on FR 4832, head straight onto an unmarked road, labeled FR 136 on maps. Follow the increasingly overgrown FR 136 for about 2 miles to a major switchback and a small parking area.
Traditionally accessed from the Rachel Lake Trailhead via the Rachel Lake Trail, the Rampart Lakes can also be reached via this popular and semiofficial approach. It lacks some of the bells and whistles of the traditional approach, such as switchbacks and signage, but it provides a healthy dose of adventure. Perhaps unsurprisingly for a not-yet-fully maintained trail, portions of the route are rough and haphazardly scraped into the mountainside. Broad vistas, grassy meadows, and a number of sparkling alpine lakes are all found along the way.
From the parking area, the trail climbs steeply upward, following Rocky Run Creek through slide alders, devils club, and the occasional hemlock. The creek sports a couple of impressive, easily accessed cascades that offer a pause to catch your breath. After 0.6 mile of climbing, the trail briefly plateaus, and a spur trail to the left leads down a few hundred yards to sheltered little Lake Laura, well worth a quick visit. Access to the thickly wooded lakeshore is limited, but clambering down the rocks to the water offers one lonely campsite and a better view of the waterfall spilling into the lake, which can put on quite a show during the spring melt. What the lake lacks in big views and majestic backdrops, it makes up for in privacy and tranquility—you’re very unlikely to share Lake Laura with anyone.
The main trail continues up another 0.1 mile; the going can be tricky here, with loose rock and roots making it hard to find your footing. At 0.7 mile the trail ends at a junction with the Lake Lillian Trail #1332 on the right. Take the Lake Lillian Trail upward to placid Lake Lillian at 0.9 mile, which rests beneath Rampart Ridge and quietly fuels Rocky Run Creek. It’s tempting to spend time in this tranquil setting, and tent sites welcome the stay, but the real prize is farther up the trail.
Climb an avalanche chute up from Lake Lillian to reach this view of Mount Rainier and your surroundings.
While not clearly marked, a path continues around the lake to the right, crossing exposed rock before dropping back down to the shore and working its way up a steep avalanche chute. Gain the ridgeline and soon leave the trees for captivating views of Mount Rainier rising over Lake Lillian with Lake Kachess in the distance (for an even better view, quick scrambles up the rocks reach easily accessed high points). Traverse the ridge through fields of wildflowers, bear grass, and huckleberry, angling slightly downward as you go. Keep right at an unsigned split in the trail at 1.8 miles and take in views of Hibox Mountain (Hike 43) and Alta Mountain (Hike 42) as the Rampart Lakes come into view.
Drop down through scree and talus to the lakeshore at 2.2 miles. A spiderweb of trails branches out around the lakes, each turn providing a view of yet another expanse of water. Stretching over 0.5 mile, these five rocky lakes have plenty of hidden nooks and crannies to discover. Take time to explore this fairy-tale landscape, whether you’re staying for the afternoon or the night.
Nearby Alta Mountain and Lake Lila (Hike 42), as well as Rachel Lake (Hike 41), are all within reach. Navigate the maze of trails by sticking to the widest path and heading toward the outlet creek. The Alta Mountain Trail leaves the Rampart Lakes, heads over a small rise, and soon reaches a signed junction with the Rachel Lake Trail. Continue straight ahead for Alta Mountain and Lake Lila or angle sharply downward for Rachel Lake.
Rampart Lakes take their name from the ridge they occupy, Rampart Ridge. Running from the shores of Keechelus Lake to the top of Alta Mountain, the ridge is named for the way it appears to block access through the mountains like a rampart. Early surveyors missed nearby Snoqualmie Pass in part because Rampart Ridge, Keechelus Ridge, and Box Ridge made it seem like there was no viable route here.
Lake Margaret and Stonesthrow Lake from the top of Mount Margaret
DISTANCE: 5.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2000 feet
HIGH POINT: 5560 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to fall, with spectacular fall color
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: None
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3906°N, 121.3474°W
NOTE: Between the trailhead and Lake Lillian Trail #1332, the trail is not well maintained.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right, quickly reaching frontage road (Forest Road 4832). Turn right, following the road for about 2.5 miles before it turns to gravel. Continue on FR 4832 for 1 mile or so to an intersection at the end of a switchback. Instead of turning uphill on FR 4832, head straight onto an unmarked road, labeled FR 136 on maps. Follow the increasingly overgrown FR 136 for about 2 miles to a major switchback and a small parking area.
Mount Margaret and Lake Lillian are more often approached from the Lake Lillian Trailhead, which begins on logging roads through old clear-cuts up Mount Margaret’s shoulders and ends with a glittering alpine jewel. Instead, this route leads straight to Lake Lillian and then up to the heights of Mount Margaret via a “backdoor” approach. While this route isn’t exactly smooth trail with carefully graded switchbacks, it wastes little time delivering hikers to alpine wilderness and broad vistas.
From the parking area, the trail immediately climbs straight up the slope alongside Rocky Run Creek. Work your way up through a brushy understory of slide alders, salmonberry, and devil’s club punctuated with the occasional hemlock and fir. The trail is thin, rocky, and steep but it’s easy to follow. In addition, a few small waterfalls provide ample reason to pause before climbing again. After ascending 0.6 mile, the trail briefly plateaus, and a trail branches off to the left, down to lonely Lake Laura, a worthy side trip (see Hike 38).
From the Lake Laura spur, it’s another 0.1 mile to the Lake Lillian Trail #1332 junction. This short section is a little challenging to navigate, as you work your way up through loose rock and exposed roots, made more difficult when rain and melt partially transform the trail into stream bed. Reach the junction at 0.7 mile. Here, the hike to Mount Margaret continues to the right, but first head left to visit Lake Lillian.
It’s 0.2 mile and a short climb to reach picturesque Lake Lillian. Rampart Ridge rises above the meadow-lined waters, while exposed rock and diminutive trees add to the alpine feel. The main trail circling around the lake to the left leads to the best campsites, while a boot path to the right leads up to Rampart Lakes (Hike 38). After visiting Lake Lillian’s tranquil shores, double back and head down the Lake Lillian Trail, past the junction to where you parked and continue straight out toward Mount Margaret.
Cross a large talus field before working your way through big, dark stands of hemlock on rocky trail. Soon reach a series of tarns that culminate in the shallow waters of Twin Lakes at 1.7 miles. Side trails here lead around the lakes, offering a little more to explore. Push onward, climbing out of the Twin Lakes basin on the shoulders of Mount Margaret. Here are the beginnings of the view you’ll soon enjoy from the mountaintop.
At 2.6 miles, reach the unsigned spur trail to the summit of Mount Margaret (the main trail continues to the Lake Lillian Trailhead, Hike 40). Veer left uphill for a steep, rocky, but short 0.2-mile climb to the top and take in the views from the wildflower-filled meadows. To the east look down on Margaret Lake (Hike 40), Stonesthrow Lake, Swan Lake, Rock Rabbit Lake, and the green sea of mountaintops beyond. Settle in and enjoy the show.
Beyond the all-but-mandatory side trip to Lake Lillian, a short trip down to Margaret Lake (Hike 40) is an easy addition.
DISTANCE: 5.5 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1600 feet in; 300 feet out
HIGH POINT: 5100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass Gateway No. 207S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3641°N, 121.3585°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Hyak, Exit 54. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound head right, quickly reaching frontage road (Forest Road 4832). Turn right, following the road for about 2.5 miles before it turns to gravel. Continue on FR 4832 for 1 mile or so to an intersection at the end of a switchback. Ignore an unmarked and slightly overgrown side road to the left that leads to the Rampart Lakes Backdoor (Hikes 38 and 39). Instead, continue up FR 4832, keeping left at the fork in a few hundred feet. Now on FR 4934, continue 0.4 mile to a parking lot labeled “Lake Margaret and Lake Lillian.” The trailhead is a few hundred feet farther along the road.
Margaret Lake is everything a day hike should be: a simple jaunt out to a pretty alpine lake, accessible to most hikers nearly any time of year. Even better, this hike has lots of room to grow, with a scramble up to a summit and more lovely lakes nearby. One lake might seem like enough for one day, but after a few hours in the wilderness, you might be craving a little extra.
From the trailhead, the Lake Lillian Trail #1332 begins on a decommissioned logging road winding through vast acres of recovering clearcut. This former road quickly gives way to an actual trail at 0.7 mile, albeit one that continues through the aftereffects of logging. Overall, the trail is fairly tame, and most of the elevation gain comes at the beginning. The clear-cuts burst with blue huckleberries during the season, adding fuel to your journey. Switchback up the slope toward the shelter of mature Douglas fir and pine while noting the landscape as you ascend. If you’re lucky, Mount Rainier will be headlining the horizon. Mount Catherine is the large isolated mound at the end of Keechelus Lake. In the middle distance you can make out the sharp point of Silver Peak.
Under the protection of the trees, you’ll continue to gain elevation until you attain the ridge. At this plateau, reach a trail junction at 2.2 miles. The Lake Lillian Trail continues onward, but instead take a right to head down to Margaret Lake along the Lake Margaret Trail #1332.1 (the official trail name for some reason).
Almost immediately the trail descends into the bowl below Mount Margaret. Reach the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 2.4 miles, and just beyond pass tiny Lake Yvonne—so tiny that it’s not much more than a pond. As you progress, the trail opens up into meadows to reveal occasional openings in the trees and glimpses of what is to come. The trail around the lakes is also much muddier, so if it has rained recently, take extra care as the ground becomes very muddy and slick.
Reach Margaret Lake at just over 2.7 miles, set deep into the base of Mount Margaret. Find a quiet campsite and a few side trails to explore while taking in the heights of the mountain. This tranquil retreat is particularly impressive in the fall, when the slopes of Mount Margaret are afire with fall color. Settle in and enjoy the solitude.
Hikers on forest road on early stretches of the trail on a foggy fall morning
Lake Lillian (Hike 39) is a popular destination, and many hikers head that direction, reaching it just a few more miles down the trail. For a bird’seye view of Margaret Lake, consider a climb up to the top of Mount Margaret (Hike 39), also found farther down the main trail. If you’re up for doing some exploring, there are a number of other lakes right nearby—Stonesthrow Lake, Rock Rabbit Lake, and Swan Lake. Once accessed via long-lost trails, these are mostly visited by hikers comfortable with cross-country bushwhacks and armed with a well-connected GPS.
Like many in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the lakes in this area were likely named for the women in the lives of those who found these tarns. Lillian, Margaret, and Yvonne received names in the Albert H. Sylvester era of frenzied place naming, no doubt following his tradition of naming lakes he came upon for the wives, sisters, and girlfriends of the rangers who worked for him. The tradition began on his 1909 tour through the Ladies Lakes (Hike 98) when he named eight lakes he came across.
DISTANCE: 6.8 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1900 feet
HIGH POINT: 4600 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.40084°N, 121.2836°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Stampede Pass, Exit 62. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound turn right onto unsigned Kachess Lake Road (Forest Road 49), following signs pointing toward Lake Kachess. Drive 5 miles to the Lake Kachess Campground and turn left onto Box Canyon Road (FR 4930). Continue for 4 miles and turn left into the Rachel Lake Trailhead parking area. Privy available.
Portions of the Rachel Lake Trail have always been a little rough. The trail bed is more rock and root than actual packed earth—a tangled mess with loose rock and unstable footing. Over the years many agencies have tried to find a better route to the lake, but thus far it has fallen to volunteer groups such as the Washington Trails Association to smooth out the path. Despite their admirable efforts, the trail remains a little challenging to navigate.
From the trailhead, the Rachel Lake Trail #1313 begins on a gentle grade, hugging Box Canyon Creek as it crosses into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.4 mile. The elevation gain remains fairly minimal as you cross numerous streams and cascades as well as dozens of creekside cul-de-sacs, perfect for taking a break and clambering around on the river rocks. Beneath a thin veneer of dust, stands of pine and cedar are surrounded by endless stretches of blue huckleberry, something of a contrast to the forests on the other side of Snoqualmie Pass. Alternate between clearings, talus fields, and thick forest, passing the Hibox Mountain Trail (Hike 43) on the right at 2.1 miles.
Reach a bridged creek at 2.3 miles. Out of eyesight, but well within earshot, is a lovely, rushing waterfall some refer to as Hibox Falls tucked into the mountainside. Push onward and start climbing. The trail packs most of the elevation gain into the last push to the lake, skirting around boulders and occasionally piggybacking on stream beds. As you get closer to the lake, the trail begins to splinter, creating a network of interwoven side paths branching off to picnic nooks and secluded campsites along the lakeshore. Arrive at Rachel Lake at 3.4 miles.
Find ways to keep cool before tackling the final steep stretch up to Rachel Lake.
The lake is dominated by Rampart Ridge, which lives up to its name and rises like a granite wall along the western edge of the lake. While tenacious trees have found small footholds on the ridge, the shores of Rachel Lake are more exposed granite than greenery. Trails and boot paths lead around both sides of the lake; wander until you find the perfect spot to settle in and enjoy.
Continue your hiking day by climbing Rampart Ridge to reach either Rampart Lakes (Hike 38) to the left or Lila Lake or Alta Mountain (Hike 42) to the right. Or if you’re looking for something closer to a scramble, consider adding a climb to the top of Hibox Mountain (Hike 43).
DISTANCE: 11.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 4000 feet in; 200 feet out
HIGH POINT: 6151 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic to Rachel Lake; light foot traffic beyond
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.40084°N, 121.2836°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Stampede Pass, Exit 62. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound turn right onto unsigned Kachess Lake Road (Forest Road 49), following signs pointing toward Lake Kachess. Drive 5 miles to the Lake Kachess Campground, and turn left onto Box Canyon Road (FR 4930). Continue for 4 miles and turn left into the Rachel Lake Trailhead parking area. Privy available.
Ascend to the heights of Alta Mountain for commanding views over a vast panorama of mountaintops, lakes, volcanoes, and river valleys. Spend the night beside petite Lake Lila, perched atop Rampart Ridge on a granite shelf overlooking Box Canyon and Rachel Lake. This alpine wonderland is sure to delight even the most jaded hiker.
From the trailhead, Rachel Lake Trail #1313 begins gently, following Box Canyon Creek into the valley and soon entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.4 mile. Alternate roaming through wide wildflower meadows and open talus fields with short jaunts beneath canopies of pine, cedar, and fir. Crane your head to take in exposed Box Ridge jutting toward the sky above the trail. Huckleberries, common along the route in season, are a treat on the dusty trail. Streams and creeklets cut across the trail, rushing down to meet Box Canyon Creek, and plentiful pullouts along the water make for perfect rest stops or picnic areas. Younger hikers will enjoy splashing in water and clambering around on river rocks.
At 2.1 miles pass the unsigned junction with the Hibox Mountain Trail (Hike 43) and, at 2.3 miles, reach a bridged creek. Out of eyesight but well within earshot is a lovely, rushing waterfall some refer to as Hibox Falls. As you push farther to the end of the valley, the trail becomes rougher and steeper, climbing through boulder fields and following rocky stream beds as it ascends the headwall. Take your time and navigate with care, as sections of loose trail bed make it easy to lose your footing.
Lila Lake lies on a wide shelf below the trail with Hibox Mountain (Hike 43) dominating the skyline.
As you approach Rachel Lake, numerous side paths branch off the main trail and lead to campsites and lakeside access. Explore the shores and shimmering waters of Rachel Lake before continuing the climb up to the top of Rampart Ridge. When you’re ready, find the “One Mile to Rampart Lakes” sign at 3.4 miles, which marks the main trail up the ridge toward Alta’s summit.
As you climb, pause on the exposed cliffs to take in Rachel Lake, quietly nestled against Rampart Ridge, with Box Canyon stretching out into the distance. The short-but-steep 0.2-mile climb ends at a saddle, meeting up with the trail on Rampart Ridge, which spans the entire length of the ridge from Rampart Lakes up to the top of Alta Mountain. To reach Alta Mountain, veer to the right through brush and meadows to another intersection where the trail splits at 3.9 miles. To the left, the trail continues along the ridge up to Alta’s summit, but first head down to the right out to Lila Lake—for a quick visit to a lovely alpine lake or to drop your pack if you’re planning to spend the night.
The trail to Lila Lake drops down to a rocky shelf dotted with meadows and soon reaches a shallow tarn. The trail splits here, with the main route dropping 0.6 mile down to Lila Lake, which offers lovely campsites set against a rugged alpine landscape complete with views of Hibox Mountain and Box Canyon. Alternatively, hikers can continue north past the tarn for an optional 0.5 mile up to a set of unnamed lakes at the rubble-strewn base of Alta Mountain. After you’ve had your fill of exploring, head back up to the main trail and press on to the summit.
The last 1.1-mile stretch up Alta is fairly well defined at lower elevations, but as you trudge up the steep slope, the path gets muddled on exposed rock. False summits abound; time and again you will attain a ledge, only to find more mountain to climb. A gigantic cairn signals the real summit—and it is breathtaking. The landscape unfolds in all directions. Alaska and Lila Lakes are below to either side. The Rampart Lakes shimmer in the distance to the south, just below Mount Margaret. To the east the distinctive profile of Hibox Mountain grabs your attention. To the north Chikamin Peak, Four Brothers, and Mount Thompson are visible. As your eyes sweep west, Alaska Mountain stands above Alaska Lake (Hike 37), and Red Mountain peeks up over Kendall Peak. Snoqualmie Mountain is in the distance, with Denny Mountain just to the south. Unpack your lunch and see how many more mountaintops you can pick out.
A visit to Rampart Lakes (Hike 38) is a fine addition to this adventure, though more likely for those spending the night at Lila Lake. Simply retrace your steps to the Rachel Lake Trail junction and continue to follow the ridge a few tenths of a mile to Rampart Lakes.
Back around the mid-1800s, Box Canyon was surveyed in an effort to find a suitable mountain pass through the Cascades. It is possible that some trails in the area may have been cut during these early explorations, but the trail to Rachel Lake was more likely blazed by adventurous fishermen who followed Box Creek looking for the next fishing hole. Over the years, the trail was improved and the fishing expanded by volunteers stocking a few of the Rampart Lakes. While the lakes brought in fishermen, Alta Mountain drew hikers hungry to bag another peak. The Mountaineers have records of a summit of the mountain as far back as 1902, and they maintained a summit register from 1929 to 1989 and from 1998 to 2000.
DISTANCE: 7.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 3800 feet
HIGH POINT: 6547 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 5 to 7 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to early fall
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic to Hibox Mountain Trail; light foot traffic to Hibox Summit
MAPS: USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.40084°N, 121.2836°W
NOTE: The Hibox Mountain Trail is unmaintained, though volunteers often brush it out.
Looking north from Hibox Mountain to a dramatic landscape that includes Park Lakes and Chimney Rock
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Stampede Pass, Exit 62. Eastbound turn left under the freeway; westbound turn right onto unsigned Kachess Lake Road (Forest Road 49), following signs pointing toward Lake Kachess. Drive 5 miles to the Lake Kachess Campground, and turn left onto Box Canyon Road (FR 4930). Continue for 4 miles and turn left into the Rachel Lake Trailhead parking area. Privy available.
Hibox Mountain’s massive, square-cut summit block draws the eye from the Rachel Lake Trail and from Rampart Ridge, just begging to be climbed. Perhaps for that reason, a scramble route leads up to this playground of boulders and talus. Climbing up to Hibox will challenge some hikers and is not recommend for everyone. Once you leave the Rachel Lake Trail, the trail is steep, rough, and easy to lose in the talus fields. On the upside, this route does not get a lot of traffic. If you’ve already explored Rampart Ridge and are hungry for more, Hibox is the perfect fit, as long as you’re comfortable with a little routefinding and scrambling.
From the trailhead, follow the Rachel Lake Trail #1313 alongside Box Canyon Creek through small stands of pine and lush slide zones filled with bracken fern and salmonberry. The trail is relatively flat, with only small ups and downs and an occasional log to hop over. The creek also provides a couple of open areas that make for great rest stops. Cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.4 mile and as you progress, keep an eye out for the rocky finger of Hibox on the ridge. Your first glimpse is in a large slide area, and you get another at a second clearing at about 2.0 miles. Just after you cross the second clearing, at 2.1 miles, look in the trees for an unmarked but obvious trail heading toward the mountain.
From here, there is only one direction: up. Switchback up the shoulders of the ridge, for 1.4 miles, following a rough and narrow trail through the trees toward the summit block. Eventually the trees recede, replaced by talus and scree as the route veers to the right, under the cliffs that make up the mountaintop. Some sections of the trail are loose rock here, so tread carefully as you climb up to the ridgeline.
The final challenge is a short scramble to the top where 360-degree views await. From those heights you can easily pick out nearby Alta Mountain (Hike 42), Three Queens, and the Park Lakes to the north. Beyond find Chikamin Peak, Lemah Mountain, Chimney Rock, and Summit Chief Mountain. On a good day Glacier Peak makes an appearance. Turn east to find Mount Hinman, Mount Daniel, and Mount Stuart. To the south are Rampart Ridge (Hike 38) and Mount Rainier. Keep turning west to pick out Mount Thompson from among the Snoqualmie peaks. Settle in and enjoy the view from this hard-won vista.
Those thirsty for more trail time can also visit Rachel Lake (Hike 41) by returning to the junction with the Rachel Lake Trail and continuing onward, adding 2.6 miles to the hike.
Back before Washington was a state, it was part of the Oregon Territory, and settlers carved out their lands on either side of the Washington Cascades. By 1853, Washington’s population had grown enough that the decision was made to break away and create a separate Washington Territory. Almost immediately, the new government tackled the need to connect the eastern and western portions of the fledgling territory. Surveyors and explorers set about searching for suitable passage through the Cascades, eventually finding many routes, including Snoqualmie Pass. Box Canyon, named for the way Rampart Ridge and Keechelus Ridge “box” you in as you try to cross the Cascades, was explored during this time. Hibox (sometimes called “High Box”) is the high point on Box Ridge, the inspiration for its name.
DISTANCE: 6.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2300 feet
HIGH POINT: 5854 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 5 to 7 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: None
MAPS: USGS Kachess Lake; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.3731°N, 121.1571°W
NOTE: Use caution fording Thorp Creek near the trailhead during spring melt.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 13.2 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to French Cabin Road (Forest Road 4308), just beyond the Cle Elum River Campground. Turn left onto FR 4308 and follow it a little over 3 miles to a signed intersection. Head right down FR 4312 for 1.5 miles to a gated spur veering to the right only, and find a spot to park here.
While a few miles shy of the wilderness boundary, Thorp Mountain Lookout offers a unique vantage point for surveying the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The sweeping, panoramic views are so good that the US Geological Survey used it as a survey point in 1958; benchmarks from the survey are easy to spot from the lookout. Most hikers approach Thorp Mountain from the Knox Creek Trailhead, which is both shorter and easier than the Thorp Creek Trail, but this route offers a better chance of solitude. This longer, more difficult alternate approach is complicated by the absence of a bridge over Thorp Creek near the trailhead. The creek can be fast-flowing and ice-cold during the spring thaw—cross with caution.
Begin by following the spur road down to Thorp Creek and fording. Once across, start down the converted logging road, passing the junction with the Little Joe Lake Trail #1330.1 and continuing to follow the road as it parallels the creek through recovering clear-cuts. Slide alders and huckleberries line the trail, rising above the grass and brush that cannot quite disguise acres of bleached snags and stumps.
Continue on the gravel road to the 0.4-mile mark, where the Thorp Creek Trail #1316 begins, trading road for trail and quickly transitioning from mild switchbacks to steeper grades. As you climb, younger firs and pines eventually appear, making this area more attractive to wildlife—don’t be surprised if you stumble upon some elk and deer on your way up.
At 2.1 miles reach the junction with the Thorp Lake Trail #1316.1 to the left, which leads a short 0.25 mile down to Thorp Lake. Continue straight ahead to finish the rocky climb up to the lookout.
In another 0.3 mile, reach the junction with the Kachess Ridge Trail #1315, where the Thorp Creek Trail ends. Keep left and continue climbing and enjoying increasingly better views for another 0.5 mile.
Find the last trail junction at the 2.9-mile mark. Here, the short Thorp Mountain Trail #1315.2 spur leads up to the lookout. This last stretch climbs steeply, a thin path scratched between the rocks, but any difficulties are soon forgotten as the expansive vistas come into view and command your full attention.
Thorp Mountain Lookout against a bluebird sky
On a good day, Mount Rainier rises above the shimmering blue of Kachess Lake. Nearby Red Mountain is easy to pick out to the northeast. Below, Thorp Lake nestles among the trees. And beyond, the horizon is filled with hundreds of snow-topped peaks and the forests of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Climb onto the decks of the lookout to find your new favorite view.
While this approach is the hard way to reach this vista, the hike more than makes up for its challenges with a healthy dose of solitude—you’re unlikely to meet too many fellow travelers willing to take on this lonely stretch of trail that climbs more than 2000 feet in a little over 3.0 miles. Come prepared for a workout!
The short side trip down to Thorp Lake adds only 0.5 mile to the hike, while more adventurous hikers can climb up to Little Joe Lake via Little Joe Lake Trail #1330.1. It’s a steep, somewhat brushy 1.5 miles to the lake and the Red Mountain Trail #1330. Those willing to endure some bushwhacking can make something of a loop by following the Kachess Ridge Trail #1315 north from the Thorp Creek Trail junction and traversing No Name Ridge for 1.2 miles to reach the Red Mountain Trail. Follow this trail down toward Little Joe Lake, navigating hard-to-follow brushy sections to reach the lake and the junction with Little Joe Lake Trail #1330.1. Follow this spur back to the Thorp Creek Trail to close the loop.
Like most things that bear the name Thorp, Thorp Mountain is named for Fielden Mortimer Thorp, a famed Yakima Valley pioneer who is often credited as being the first settler in that area, in 1860. The lookout was built between 1930 and 1931, a standard gabled L-4 tower cabin, 14 feet by 14 feet. Around the same time, lookouts were built on nearby Red Mountain and Jolly Mountain, though only the one on Thorp survives today. Extensive restoration of the lookout cabin was done in 2007 and 2008 to continue its legacy.
DISTANCE: 8.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2500 feet
HIGH POINT: 4740 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light to moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Polallie Ridge, USGS Chikamin Peak; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208, Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4176°N, 121.2381°W
NOTES: Two creek crossings may require fording when waters are high. Some sections are unmaintained and can be brushy in summer.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 15.5 miles through Roslyn and along Cle Elum Lake to reach the Cooper River Road (signed Forest Road 4600). Turn left onto the unpaved road and continue about 4.7 miles to the Cooper Lake turnoff. Stay on FR 46 and drive another 4.7 miles over Cooper Pass to the bottom of the valley and the signed trailhead.
Hike down the century-old mining road that runs along the bottom of Mineral Creek’s deep basin on your way to the gorgeous alpine Park Lakes. The rugged landscape and rocky precipices of Three Queens and Box Ridge offer a charming counterpoint to the creek fords and encroaching brush that give this trail a rough reputation. That reputation is partially deserved, but it also means you’re likely to get a big slice of wilderness all to yourself.
From the trailhead, the Mineral Creek Trail #1331 wastes no time presenting you with its first challenge: a river ford. Logs spanning the Kachess River are usually easy to find, but when they are not, it’s a short wade to the other side. Rejoin the trail and climb up the mountainside for 0.4 mile to the junction with the Little Kachess Trail #1312 to the left. Keep right on the Mineral Creek Trail, heading north and traversing into Mineral Creek Basin. Along these early stretches, the trail still hints that it was once a road, cutting a fairly gentle path above Mineral Creek.
Soon the granite points of Hibox Mountain and Three Queens appear, beckoning you deeper into the wilderness. At 1.6 miles, the trail reaches Mineral Creek. Here the curious can spend a little time investigating a nearby mine shaft at what remains of an old mining mill. This is also a good turnaround point for younger hikers.
The trail crosses Mineral Creek, which may require another dip in the water if no easy stepping stones are available. Enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness shortly afterward and continue a somewhat leisurely stroll to 2.5 miles, where the truly brushy portion of the trail begins. Slide alder, thimbleberry, and bracken fern crowd the trail and slow your progress for the next mile. Sometimes volunteers brush this section out, but more often than not you’ll need to push your way through the undergrowth. The trail remains easy to follow beneath the greenery; just take your time.
Soon reach the end of the basin, crossing yet another creek at 3.5 miles. Here the trail angles steeply uphill, leaving the brushy basin for mossy old-growth forest. Continue slogging up.
At 4.3 miles you reach Upper Park Lake, a gem set in the meadows of the Park Lakes Basin. From the lakeshore the exposed granite of Peak 6300 dominates the landscape. Anchoring one end of Chikamin Ridge, it rises dramatically above the water. Look closely and you’re likely to pick out hikers traversing the lower slopes following the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) up to the pass. Follow one of the many boot paths that lead around the lake to find a slice of serenity.
Another 0.5 mile farther, the Mineral Creek Trail connects with the PCT, 4.8 miles from the trailhead. Heading right on the PCT leads to an overlook of Lower Park Lake, past a number of unnamed tarns, and up to a windswept prominence above Spectacle Lake. The view here is spectacular, encompassing a number of lakes, waterfalls, and snowy mountaintops. The long drop down to Spectacle Lake from here is beyond the reach of most day hikers. Alternatively, head left on the PCT from the Mineral Creek Trail junction and climb up to the pass for more sprawling vistas filled with cliffs and peaks as well as Alaska Lake (Hike 37) and Joe Lake.
As its name suggests, Mineral Creek and the surrounding area have a long mining history. Prospecting began around 1900, but the major mining activity focused on copper extraction beginning in 1917. Back then Three Queens was known as “Mineral Mountain,” a name it kept until most of the mining ceased.
The Mineral Creek Copper Company operated from 1917 to 1926, largely under the management of Charles and Ernest Durrwachter. By 1920 the first mill was operating near the major Copper Queen and Liberty Lode prospects. By this time, a road was completed to haul out the twenty-five tons of ore the mill could process in a day. At its height, the Durrwachters’ total operations included more than 1000 feet of tunnels bored more than 450 feet into the ridges on both sides of Mineral Creek. A hydropowered rod mill, multiple Wilfley tables, and a concentrator all supported the mining effort.
Big boulders in Mineral Creek are perfect perches for soaking your feet on a hot summer day.
By 1930, mining activity began to wane, and in 1951 the property was bought by the Cascade Gold Mining and Milling Company. Mining was largely abandoned by the 1960s, and the road, adits, and remaining buildings were left to nature.
DISTANCE: 8.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 200 feet
HIGH POINT: 3000 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot and equestrian traffic; mountain bikes first 2 miles
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Polallie Ridge; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4341°N, 121.1868°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 15.5 miles through Roslyn and along Cle Elum Lake to reach the Cooper River Road (signed Forest Road 4600). Turn left onto unpaved FR 46, crossing the bridge and continuing 4.7 miles to FR 4616. Turn right and continue 0.7 mile to a fork. Veer left onto spur FR 113 and continue 1 mile to the trailhead. Privy available.
Relatively flat with an easily accessed trailhead, the Pete Lake Trail is a popular day hike and often the first leg on a backpack out to Spectacle Lake or a longer foray along the Pacific Crest Trail. Approachable for hikers of all ages and skill levels, Pete Lake is perfect for an introduction to backpacking or a short jaunt through the woods. While there is a lot of traffic in the summer—from day hikers and backpackers to cyclists and pack animals—the shoulder seasons see far fewer feet, with the added bonus of abundant wildflowers or bright fall foliage, depending on the time of year.
From the trailhead, follow the Pete Lake Trail #1323 along the rushing Cooper River through a young forest of spruce, hemlock, and pine. Pass the junction with the Tired Creek Trail #1317 at 1.2 miles and press onward down the dusty trail.
At 2.2 miles the Pete Lake Tie Trail #1323.1 branches off to the right. The trail sign here points toward “Road No. 235,” now shown as FR 4616 on modern maps. The short 0.5-mile Tie Trail is primarily used by mountain bikers to make a loop by cutting up to FR 4616 and following it back to the trailhead.
When you’re ready, continue on the Pete Lake Trail and pick your way across a number of creeks and streams, occasionally emerging from the trees to cross pika-filled talus fields. In 0.3 mile cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and older forest as you continue down the wide and well-trodden trail. Just before you reach the lake, pass the Waptus Pass Trail #1329 peeling off to the right. Keep left to reach the headwaters of the Cooper River and the shore of Pete Lake at 4.1 miles. From here, the trail continues around the lake, passing numerous shoreline campsites, each offering a slightly different expanse of water to enjoy.
The best views are the easiest to reach and can be found on the rocky beach near the lake’s outlet. From here you can take in the full length of the lake with an imposing wall of mountains rising above the water. The sharp point of Chikamin Peak anchors the southern end of the wall, followed by Lemah Mountain, then the flanks of Chimney Rock. Directly south of the lake, the main show for most of the campsites is the more demure Island Mountain. Find a quiet spot to break out a snack and linger around this pristine alpine lake.
Lemah Mountain rises above still-as-glass Pete Lake.
The Waptus Pass Trail offers a steep climb up to meadowy parklands before plunging back down to Waptus Lake (Hike 48). For those looking for more trail time, the Pete Lake Trail continues to hug the lakeshore before turning uphill and climbing through forest for 1.3 miles to the Lemah Meadow Trail #1232.2, which connects to the Pacific Crest Trail. Once there, hikers can push onward and upward to Spectacle Lake.
Pete Lake traces its name back to a US Forest Service packhorse that spent many a day plodding alongside the Cooper River, probably sometime around 1910. Until 1909, maps of the area leave the lake unnamed; only in 1916 does “Pete Lake” begin to appear. Before the 1960s, Pete Lake was a more remote backpacking destination, accessed via the Cooper River Trail #1311 that began at the Salmon La Sac Trailhead. Sometime in the mid-1960s the Forest Service finished building a road out to Cooper Lake, largely following the Cooper River Trail route. Today the Cooper River Trail still exists, and sharpeyed travelers will note the trail signs found along FR 4616.
DISTANCE: 8.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2700 feet
HIGH POINT: 5100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak, USGS Polallie Ridge; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4096°N, 121.1067°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to an intersection just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station. Veer left across the bridge on Forest Road 4316 toward the Salmon La Sac Campground. Continue past the campground, keeping right on FR 4316-111 to the end of the road for the Salmon La Sac Trailhead. Privy available.
Climb up the flanks of this ridgeline along an old fire lookout access trail for sweeping views and a pretty alpine lake and—if you opt for the Going Farther option—the opportunity to visit a former lookout site.
From the trailhead, briefly follow the Cooper River Trail #1311 alongside the Cooper River for 0.1 mile to the junction with the Polallie Ridge Trail #1309. Head right, away from the river and almost immediately to the next junction with the Waptus River Trail #1310 (Hike 48). Here, stay left to begin your ascent up Polallie Ridge, following the rocky trail as it climbs through stands of pine and fir.
While some sections are steeper than others, the route is almost entirely an uphill battle. As you work your way along the ridge, the trees break for small meadows or talus fields that provide brief glimpses into the surrounding landscape. These are just hints of what is to come, as the first real views do not appear until you cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 2.8 miles. Here the trail briefly levels out and the trees thin enough to reveal Mount Daniel, Cone Mountain, Sasse Mountain, Jolly Mountain, and Hex Mountain, as well as the Waptus River Valley below.
Beyond the views, the trail returns to the trees and continues to climb another mile before dropping down to Diamond Lake at 4.0 miles. The tree-lined shore offers several campsites, as well as a number of spots to settle in and enjoy the stillness of this pretty alpine lake.
Less popular than other nearby trails, Polallie Ridge is a good alternative for those seeking relative solitude and a challenge. During the high summer, some hikers will want to avoid this steep, hot climb up a loose and rocky trail, but it’s delightful when pocket meadows brim with wildflowers in late spring and early summer. For many, the long views are incentive enough to tackle this hike any time of year.
Those looking for a longer day and more views can continue past Diamond Lake another 3.0 miles to the Polallie Mountain Lookout site.
Diamond Lake’s wooded shores are mirrored in its still waters.
Polallie means “dust” or “fine powder” in Chinook Jargon, and like so many of the trails in this area, the trail tends to be fairly dusty in high summer. Around 1921, a fire lookout cabin was built on the high point of Polallie Mountain. In 1936 the cabin was replaced by a 25-foot-tall tower that was in use only until 1947, when the site was abandoned. Faint traces of the former lookout remain today. Lookouts would have used the Polallie Ridge Trail to access the site and carry in supplies.
DISTANCE: 16.9 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 900 feet in; 300 feet out
HIGH POINT: 3100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Early spring to late fall
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic; equestrian traffic common
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak, USGS Polallie Ridge; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4096°N, 121.1067°W
NOTE: This hike requires fording the Waptus River.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to an intersection just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station. Veer left across the bridge on Forest Road 4316 toward the Salmon La Sac Campground. Continue past the campground, keeping right on FR 4316-111 to the end of the road for the Salmon La Sac Trailhead. Privy available.
Waptus Lake might be the quintessential Alpine Lakes Wilderness hike, complete with a big alpine lake, stunning landscape, and plenty of nearby destinations to explore. With easy trailhead access and minimal elevation to tackle, this classic hike has been popular with backpackers and horse campers for decades.
Situated on the banks of the Cooper River, the Salmon La Sac Trailhead is popular with campers staying at the Salmon La Sac Campground, who come here to enjoy the river on a hot day.
From here, begin along the Cooper River Trail #1311, passing a busy swimming hole on your way to the junction with the Polallie Ridge Trail #1309 at 0.1 mile. Head right, away from the river, and just beyond arrive at the next junction where the Waptus River Trail #1310 branches off to the right. Take this wide, treelined trail as it gently rises, leaving the river sounds behind and drawing you closer to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
Reach the wilderness boundary at 1.1 miles, where the trail becomes a bit more interesting as it crosses footbridges and streams, passes small meadows and tarns, and climbs rocky hillocks before reaching the edge of the 2006 Polallie Ridge Fire. The burn is extensive, though grass and wildflowers have returned to add some color to the sun-bleached trees that remain. With few trees to obscure your view, the skyline is largely dominated by the slopes of Davis Peak (Hike 51), parts of which were also burned in 2006. After working your way through the burn, return to the shelter of the pines and push onward to reach the Waptus River, your merry companion for most of the rest of the hike.
At 3.1 miles, the trail reaches the bridgeless Hour Creek, complete with campsite. Hour Creek can make for a wet crossing during the spring melt, though usually the water is low enough that you can work your way across without too much trouble. Around here, you start to catch glimpses of the exposed heights of Cone Mountain through gaps in the canopy.
As you progress, you climb across the lowest shoulders of the mountain and begin to swing away from the Waptus River. Push onward, past a variety of wildflowers including phlox and columbine, monkshood and tiger lily. Pass campsites at 4.4 miles, 5.1 miles, and 6.3 miles, each offering a quiet place to drop your pack and take a moment to enjoy the trees. Eventually, at the 6.9-mile mark, rejoin the river and reach the junction with the Trail Creek Trail #1322 to the right. This trail leads a short way down to the riverside if you need access to the water, but you’ll need to ford the river to continue on this trail or reach the campsites, both of which are on the other side.
Press down the trail for nearly a mile to reach the junction with the Waptus Pass Trail #1329 at 7.8 miles. Here, signs state that the bridge across the Waptus River is out; it washed away in a flood in 2006 (it was a busy year!). Without a bridge, hikers and equestrians alike must now use the horse ford about 0.5 mile from the lake. Head left down the Waptus Pass Trail to the well-signed Waptus Horse Ford Trail #1329.1, taking it a short distance to the river. While there is some seasonal variation, the ford typically requires a 75-foot wade across swift-running, very cold water that is usually about 2 feet deep. If you wear waterproof footwear and bring poles to help you navigate the river rocks, crossing should not pose much difficulty.
Bears Breast Mountain rises above the north end of Waptus Lake.
Once across, continue down the dusty trail to reconnect with the Waptus River Trail and reach the first campsites at the end of the lake at 8.4 miles from the trailhead. Head to the lakeshore to take in the full length of one of the largest lakes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Water laps against tree-lined shores, while snowcapped Summit Chief Mountain to the west and more sharply pointed Bears Breast Mountain to the east rise like two sentinels guarding the wilderness beyond.
If you’re spending the night, continue on the main trail to the far end of the lake for some excellent campsites, including one on an island and another on a secluded bluff above the lake. Both are just beyond the last horse camp before reaching the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) at Spade Creek.
Many lake-filled glacial troughs are hidden between the ridges above Waptus Lake, so it’s no surprise that plenty of nearby trails have been built to access them, including the PCT. Destinations such as Lake Ivanhoe (Hike 50) and Spade and Venus Lakes (Hike 49) are both good day hikes if you’re base camping at Waptus.
Backpackers can reach Deep Lake (Hike 55) and Spinola Meadows via the Spinola Creek Trail #1310.1 and the PCT, passing the junction for Lake Vicente along the way.
Pete Lake (Hike 46) can be reached either via the PCT or by backtracking, refording the Waptus River, and following the Waptus Pass Trail to Pete Lake while trekking past the trail to Escondido Lake along the way.
Waptus Lake’s name comes from the Sahaptin word wáptas, meaning “feather.” The language was spoken by American Indian tribes who lived along the Columbia River and its tributaries in southern Washington and northern Oregon. A lake as large and accessible as Waptus naturally attracted the attention of the tribes, and it was well known enough that oral traditions make mention of mythical creatures that dwelled in its waters.
More recently, in October 1968, this hike marked the first meeting of a group of outdoor enthusiasts and conservationists who eventually formed the Alpine Lakes Protection Society (ALPS) to spearhead the creation of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Since that time, the hike to the lake has continued to be popular with backpackers, though the lightning-sparked 2006 Polallie Ridge Fire radically altered a sizable stretch of the trail and consumed over 900 acres of forest.
DISTANCE: 26.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 3600 feet in; 300 feet out
HIGH POINT: 5700 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 2 nights
BEST SEASON: Early summer to fall
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic to Waptus Lake; light to Spade Lake
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak, USGS Polallie Ridge; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4096°N, 121.1067°W
NOTE: Hike requires fording the Waptus River; see Hike 48 for details for first 16.9 miles
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to an intersection just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station. Veer left across the bridge on Forest Road 4316 toward the Salmon La Sac Campground. Continue past the campground, keeping right on FR 4316-111 to the end of the road for the Salmon La Sac Trailhead. Privy available.
This challenging backpack heads to a pair of rugged and remote alpine lakes nestled below the barren granite shoulders of Mount Daniel. They are tough to reach but offer the same dramatic vistas and lunar-like landscapes that the Enchantment Lakes are famous for—without the company. Spade Lake is a prime candidate for those looking to spend a night truly alone under the stars.
From the large camping area at the south end of Waptus Lake (see Hike 48), follow the Waptus River Trail #1310 north along the lakeshore for 0.6 mile to the junction with the Spade Lake Trail #1337. Turn right onto this trail and head uphill, following a creek up along a narrow trail through thick forest, crossing the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) in 0.2 mile.
The trail steepens beyond the PCT, with breaks in the old-growth canopy offering ever-expanding views of Waptus Lake and the surrounding valley, soon followed by the top of Summit Chief Mountain and the jutting spire of Bears Breast Mountain. Press onward and upward until the switchbacks and near-constant climb give way around the 1.25-mile mark to a long traverse around the mountainside through meadowlands and smaller stands of hemlock and fir. During the spring, keep an eye out for fields of glacier lily and other wildflowers dotting the meadows. You’re high enough here to catch your first glimpses of Mount Rainier and Mount Adams, which only get better as you continue to leave the trees behind.
Frequent rest stops are both much needed and easy to justify as you soon trade forest for talus and rugged bluffs. Continue your traverse, enjoying presiding views over the valley below. Within a mile of the lake, round a bend to find Spade Creek cascading down the steep cliffs below the lake, a sign that you’ll soon reach the lake basin.
Enter the basin at the 3.6-mile mark, following a trail that soon splinters as you approach the lake, These boot paths lead off to various campsites and viewpoints, many of them worth exploring. Wander over the exposed washboard of granite slabs to find a suitable spot to take in Spade Lake’s rocky shores. Make a beeline for the shore to find campsites in the bluffs, or circle around the east side of the lake, following boot paths to campsites deeper in the lake basin. Wherever you settle in, your eyes will be drawn to Mount Daniel’s snowy crown dominating the horizon above the lake.
Venus Lake lies in a cirque another 1.1 miles up the trail. Your destination is easy to pick out from the shores of Spade Lake—Venus Lake lies just behind the lowest notch above the far end of the lake. Follow the sometimes-faint boot path around the east side of the water toward the stream that flows out of Venus and into Spade. There’s no need to cross the stream; simply scramble up to the notch to reach steepshored Venus Lake at 4.7 miles.
This is a challenging backpack. The approach to Waptus Lake (Hike 48) is long, the 2400-foot climb up to Spade Lake is grueling, and a visit to Venus Lake requires a scramble and some routefinding. Perhaps because the price of admission is so high, these lonely lakes feel special, like a little lost world. Whether you spend the night or just day trip up from Waptus Lake, allow extra time to linger—it is hard to pull yourself away.
Spade and Venus are likely enough for a weekend of backpacking, but for those on a longer timeline, a day trip up to Lake Ivanhoe (Hike 50) or out to Deep Lake (Hike 55) are easy additions. There is a scramble route up to the summit of Mount Daniel from Venus Lake, but it is a very steep and challenging climb through talus and boulder fields to reach the top. If Mount Daniel is your goal, consider the easier Lynch Glacier approach from Peggys Pond (Hike 55) instead.
Find ample seating to take in the landscape on the large swaths of exposed granite surrounding Spade Lake.
Spade Lake gets its name from the vague resemblance its outline has to a garden spade, while Venus has no such apparent reasoning behind its name. Both of these lakes appear on maps dating back to 1902. The Mountaineers are widely credited with the first recorded ascent of Mount Daniel, in 1925, though it is likely they were following in the footsteps of previous climbers. While it generally appears as “Mt. Daniel” on USGS maps, The Mountaineers referred to it as “Mt. Daniels” for decades, and some maps label the mountain’s five high points as “Daniels.”
DISTANCE: 28.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2600 feet in; 300 feet out
HIGH POINT: 4700 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 2 nights
BEST SEASON: Early summer to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic, equestrian traffic common to Waptus Lake; light foot traffic to Lake Ivanhoe
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak, USGS Polallie Ridge, USGS Big Snow Mountain; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4096°N, 121.1067°W
NOTES: Hike requires fording the Waptus River; see Hike 48 for details for first 16.9 miles. The hike to Lake Ivanhoe requires at least two major creek fords; come prepared to wade through swiftly flowing water.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to an intersection just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station. Veer left across the bridge on Forest Road 4316 toward the Salmon La Sac Campground. Continue past the campground, keeping right on FR 4316-111 to the end of the road for the Salmon La Sac Trailhead. Privy available.
Lake Ivanhoe sits quietly in the heart of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, couched in a granite bowl between Summit Chief Mountain and Bears Breast Mountain. Accessed from either the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Valley or the Waptus River Valley, it’s beyond the reach of all but the most extreme day hikers. As a result, this remote alpine lake sees only a few visitors a year, making it an idyllic setting during the warm summer months.
From the large camping area at the south end of Waptus Lake (see Hike 48), follow the Waptus River Trail #1310 along the lakeshore, passing the junction with the Spade Lake Trail #1337 (Hike 49) after 0.6 mile. Push onward to the end of the Waptus River Trail, where it merges into the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) at 2.1 miles.
Nathan hops over a rushing creek near Lake Ivanhoe.
Continue straight ahead over Spade Creek, enjoying the mixed forest and well-trodden PCT for a nearly a mile, and cross the Waptus River on a sturdy bridge before reaching the Dutch Miller Gap Trail #1362, signed for Lake Ivanhoe. Veer right onto the Dutch Miller Gap Trail. Cross a fairly flat area for 0.2 mile to reach Chief Creek, which will likely require fording. When waters are very low, it’s possible to skip across on rocks, but most of the year expect to get your feet wet.
Beyond the creek the trail begins a long climb up forested slopes, switchbacking through sections of old growth interspersed with openings in the canopy that provide glimpses of the valley below. The views only get better as you climb and the trees recede. Eventually after 1.7 miles of climbing, the switchbacks end and you traverse around the mountainside and enter more-rugged territory, soon crossing an unnamed creek and its accompanying waterfall just shy of the lake.
From the falls, a short 0.1-mile climb brings you to Ivanhoe’s outlet stream, rushing over what remains of the bridge that once provided easier access to the lake. The trail splits here and loops around the lake before heading up to Dutch Miller Gap. Keep right and in 0.4 mile reach a spectacular campsite on a bluff overlooking Lake Ivanhoe at 5.8 miles.
The setting is wild and pristine. Snow lingers late here, with white patches of ice clinging to the lakeshore most of the year, adding bright contrast to the lake’s deep blue. Jagged cliffs rise high above either side of Ivanhoe, with rocky Dutch Miller Gap marking the low point in between. The rugged, steeply sloped shoreline can make access to the lakeshore a little challenging. Instead, continue around the lake a few thousand feet to reach a wide, stepped waterfall that makes for a perfect picnic spot.
The Dutch Miller Gap Trail continues another 0.5 mile up and over Dutch Miller Gap before dropping into the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Valley and soon reaching Williams Lake (Hike 93).
Sometimes called Summit Lake, Lake Ivanhoe is named for Sir Walter Scott’s Wilfred of Ivanhoe, the central character in Ivanhoe. Nearby Lake Rebecca and Lake Rowena, situated to the northeast on the other side of Bears Breast Mountain, are named for the two women Ivanhoe was torn between.
While Dutch Miller Gap was named for Andrew “Dutch” Miller, who discovered copper at La Bohn Gap in 1896, the miner probably did not make much use of his namesake gap to access his claims. Instead, foot traffic over Dutch Miller Gap was heaviest when it was one of the primary Cascade Crest Trail routes between the Middle Fork Snoqualmie and Snoqualmie Pass. When the Kendall Katwalk (Hike 34) opened in the late 1970s, hikers shifted to the new PCT route, leaving Lake Ivanhoe to become something of a backwater.
DISTANCE: 10.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 4000 feet
HIGH POINT: 6426 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.41873°N, 121.0846°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 1.6 miles to the Paris Creek Trailhead. Park here if your car can’t handle slightly rough gravel roads, and hike 0.25 mile to the trailhead; if your vehicle can handle the road, take FR 134 to the lower parking area and trailhead.
This is a fantastic hike with big summit views and a healthy dose of solitude, though the steep grade, tight switchbacks, and sun exposure can pose a challenge. Be prepared to log some extra trail hours working your way up to the summit of Davis Peak and taking your time on the descent. Though most of this hike lies outside the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the trail ends at a windswept viewpoint just inside the wilderness boundary. From this rocky vantage point, you can survey a vast amount of this fabled lake country. Anyone attempting to grasp the magnitude of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness from a single point—short of breaking out the ice axe and crampons—would be hard pressed to find a better spot than this lonely prominence on Davis Peak. The tough climb intimidates a lot of hikers, and while reaching the top requires a hefty effort, you’re likely to have the summit to yourself.
From the trailhead, the Davis Peak Trail #1324 begins with a short jaunt across a sturdy bridge spanning the Cle Elum River before beginning its long, steady ascent up the mountain. Well maintained and relatively free of rocks and roots, the trail climbs through a variety of landscapes: sections of old growth, meadows, recovering burn zones, and open ridgelines offering sneak peeks at the views to come.
As engaging as the trail is, it is almost overwhelmed by its defining characteristic: its seemingly endless series of tight switchbacks. The exact number depends on how you define a switchback, but the Davis Peak Trail racks up at least ninety as it ricochets up toward the summit. Gaps in the tree line widen as you climb, with the occasional talus field framing views of nearby lakes and mountaintops. Around 2.0 miles you reach the edge of the burn zone and the last of the tree cover.
The fire-ravaged slopes of Davis Peak offer great views but little respite from the summer heat.
Continue onward and upward through rocky terrain to the first ridgeline. From here a false summit and lingering snow can lure hikers off the main trail. Keep an eye on the ground. If it suddenly turns into a rocky, upward scramble, you’ve gone too far. Backtrack to rejoin the main trail as it drops to the northeast, off the ridge and down into a bowl. The route traverses the bowl and crosses a snow-fed creek before switchbacking up to the next ridgeline.
The trail climbs through grassy slopes just before you crest the exposed ridge to reach the lookout site, now just an incomplete ring of piled stones. While it may not feel like it, this is the summit of Davis Peak—at least as labeled on most maps. Take a moment to soak up the expansive views, perhaps scanning the horizon for smoke like the lookouts who came before you. After checking out what is left of the lookout’s foundation, push up the last 0.5 mile of trail, following the ridgeline and clambering over rocks and boulders to reach a slightly higher overlook, 5.0 long miles from the trailhead.
From here the views are enormous. The two lakes below are Terence (Hike 53) and Opal. Facing north you’ll see the other nearby prominences of Goat Mountain, Mount Daniel, and Mount Hinman. Over to the west Mount Stuart dominates the skyline, with nearby Hawkins Mountain rising underneath. Turning to the south, find Jolly Mountain and Sasse Mountain, with Cle Elum Lake and Mount Adams in the distance. Swing west to find Red Mountain, Lemah Mountain, and Chikamin Peak. Pull up a rock and enjoy the show.
Davis Peak is the southernmost prominence along a sprawling ridgeline known as Goat Mountain. Grover Burch, one of the first rangers in the US Forest Service, named the peak in 1926 when he became the Cle Elum District ranger. The peak was named to honor Louie Davis, a lookout worker who had recently died.
In 1934, a lookout cabin was constructed below the summit of Davis Peak and remained staffed until 1965 when the Forest Service shifted away from the lookout network as its primary means of fire detection. The lookout was removed in 1968. Today, all that remains of the lookout is a semi-circle of stones that were once part of the cabin’s foundation.
In September 2006, a lightning-sparked fire known as the Polallie Ridge Fire burned large portions of the mountainside below Davis Peak, including areas traversed by the trail route. The fire eventually spread to over 900 acres and took more than two weeks to contain, closing the trail for months. Currently the trail wanders through large swaths of bleached and burnt trees, a legacy of that fire.
DISTANCE: 6.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2700 feet
HIGH POINT: 6100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 4 to 5 hours
BEST SEASON: Summer to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176, Green Trails Alpine Lakes West–Stevens Pass No. 176S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.533°N, 121.0827°W
NOTE: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 11.3 miles to the Paddy-Go-Easy Pass Trailhead on the right. The trailhead parking area is small, with room for only a few cars. Privy available 1 mile farther down FR 4330 at the Cathedral Pass Trailhead.
This steep climb up to Paddy-Go-Easy Pass offers sweeping views of a lush valley, sprawling hills, and craggy peaks, while tranquil Sprite Lake is a quiet picnic destination. Do not expect much in the way of company on this lonely hike, as it is usually passed over for more popular nearby destinations like Tuck and Robin Lakes (Hike 57). A trek up to Paddy-Go-Easy Pass and Sprite Lake isn’t easy, but the views and solitude are well worth it.
From the trailhead, the Paddy-Go-Easy Pass Trail #1595.1 immediately enters a mixed forest and begins a nearly relentless climb to the pass. The narrow trail crosses the Alpine Lakes Wilderness boundary at 0.6 mile and begins steeply switchbacking up through the trees, crossing small meadows dotted with phlox and paintbrush. Gaps in the canopy offer glimpses of Tucquala Lake (formerly known as Fish Lake) and the valley below.
Before long the trees begin to thin out, and soon the trail pushes into grassy hillsides with ever-better views of nearby Cathedral Rock, Mount Daniel, Mount Hinman, and Mount Rainier. Reach the pass at 2.7 miles, trading the grass and trees for an expanse of exposed rock and the Cle Elum River Valley for the French Creek drainage. The trail now officially becomes the French Creek Trail # 1595. Take a moment to pick out some of the more prominent peaks—find the Cradle, Harding Mountain, and the French Ridge Peaks before settling on Dragontail Peak to the southeast.
When you’ve gotten your fill, veer left, following the trail as it traverses a rocky semiplateau toward Sprite Lake. At 3.0 miles, as the trail begins to angle downward, look for a cairn marking a rough path leading up through a boulder field. Veer right off the trail and up through the rocks, soon finding yourself on top of a grass ridge looking down on Sprite Lake. The path gently switchbacks down to the shore at 3.3 miles, with plenty of space to settle in and relax. Take in the scree-covered shoulders of Point 6566, sometimes called Paddy Go North, and enjoy this tranquil lake.
Adventurous souls can follow a rough scramble route from the lakeshore that eventually works its way up the ridge to Point 6566. The path is easily located near Sprite Lake’s outlet. For those spending a few nights in the area, return to the main trail and follow its descent into the French Creek Valley. From here, backpackers can reach a number of destinations, including Klonaqua Lakes (Hike 92) and Cradle Lake (Hike 89).
In 1883, a large area around the Cle Elum River Valley was organized as the Cle Elum Mining District, and miners filed hundreds of patents and claims over the decades. Traces of gold, silver, and nickel were found in the area, but despite a great deal of effort, the veins of precious metals were never quite big enough to be very profitable. The ridges around Sprite Lake and Paddy-Go-Easy were surveyed in 1910, and claims such as Mountain Sprite Lode No. 2 and Blue-Eyed Nellie were patented by the Aurora Mining and Tunnel Company in 1912. It’s no surprise that all this mining activity left a mark on the area. Paddy-Go-Easy Pass is named for a miner’s burro named Paddy, whose owner would tell the animal to “go easy” over rough portions of the trail. Perhaps that miner was John Lynch, who was involved in the Paddy-Go-Easy and Golden Rule Claims near the pass and owned a homestead near Fish Lake in 1919.
Sprite Lake through the haze of wildfire smoke
Miners and prospectors accessed their claims via a pack trail more or less where today’s trail begins. Early maps show the pack trail had long switchbacks that made for a slow climb up to the pass. Today’s trail is much more direct, but you can still find traces of the old route where the two trails cross. About 0.5 mile from the pass, you can follow a section of old trail out to the remains of an old mine, complete with rusting railroad ties, the last remains of a cabin, and a trickling stream. There are also a shaft and some tailings in the rocks above Sprite Lake, another legacy of those long-gone prospecting days.
DISTANCE: 17.0 miles to Lake Michael; 20.2 miles to Lake Terence
ELEVATION GAIN: 2500 feet in, 800 feet out to Lake Michael; 3000 feet in, 900 feet out to Lake Terence
HIGH POINT: 5200 feet (Lake Michael); 5600 feet (Lake Terence)
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Early summer to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light to moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Davis Peak; Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54348°N, 121.0968°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the Cathedral Pass Trailhead. Privy available.
Overlooked and undervisited, this hike out to a pair of remote alpine lakes offers quiet solitude and a little slice of adventure. Rugged landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and lonesome trail—this hike has all the hallmarks of a great alpine backpack.
From the trailhead at Tucquala Meadows, follow the Cathedral Pass Trail #1345 over the Cle Elum River and into the trees. At first the rocky trail is relatively flat as it works its way across the river valley, crossing a handful of small creeks before starting a series of long switchbacks that slowly ratchets up the mountainside. At 0.4 mile the trail enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, drawing you past brushy undergrowth and deeper into older forest of hemlock and fir.
The trail begins to flatten again and reaches the signed junction with the Trail Creek Trail #1322 to the left at 2.0 miles. Veer left, following the arrow pointing toward the Lake Michael Trail. Wide and well-worn, the Trail Creek Trail continues through the woods, passing above Squitch Lake hidden in the trees (an elusive boot path leads down to this lakelet). Stay on the dusty trail as it angles gently downward, and before long you’ll hear the trickle of the route’s namesake waterway, Trail Creek.
Cut through a small marsh that acts as the creek’s headwaters before returning to the trees and continuing down the sheltered trail. A single campsite at 3.6 miles breaks up the journey through the uniform and relatively young forest, a legacy of a century-old forest fire. Push onward to the 4.7-mile mark to reach the junction with the Lake Michael Trail #1336 and where the real adventure begins. Leave the gentle grades and wide trails behind to climb steeply up the shoulders of Goat Mountain. Gone are the wide switchbacks and well-worn tread, replaced now by a narrow, rocky path leading up through increasingly sparse forest.
After about a mile of climbing, the trail levels somewhat as you cross Goat Creek, beginning a traverse that undulates through wildflower-filled meadows and rocky creek beds. Not far beyond Goat Creek, just before you reach Moonshine Creek’s rocky creek bed, pass an unmarked trail leading farther up the mountainside at the 6.4-mile mark. Note this path, as it is the Moonshine Lake Trail #1336.1, which snakes 0.5 mile up to shallow Moonshine Lake and a single campsite.
Continue your traverse, eventually dropping steeply down to Lake Michael’s outlet creek. From here the trail follows the creek back to its source, finally climbing up to the lakeside, which you reach at 8.5 miles. Here, Goat Mountain rises high above the sparkling waters, nearly surrounding the lake in exposed crags and talus fields.
The trail forks on the lip of the lake basin. A boot path heads around the lake to the left, and the main trail continues to the right, crossing the outlet creek and heading upward to Lake Terence. If you’re looking to spend the night at Lake Michael, the best tent site is a few dozen feet down the lake trail, though there is also a horse camp a short way down the trail toward Lake Terence. Another former horse camp on the far end of Lake Michael is mostly buried under a rockslide, though some flat dry spaces can still be found there.
From Lake Michael, the rough and slightly overgrown route climbs a steep ridgeline above the lake before skirting the upper edges of a creek valley, offering some expansive views of surrounding mountaintops poking out of a sea of trees. Climb another ridge before a steep drop down to Lake Terence, 1.6 miles from Lake Michael, in the next bowl over, at the base of Davis Peak (Hike 51). There is only one campsite here near the outlet, as the lake is lined with steep, rocky slopes.
Climbers seeking the heights of Goat Mountain follow a scramble route from Lake Michael, while others prefer a route from Moonshine Lake. A quick trip up to Moonshine Lake outlined above is an easy addition to this hike, but the scramble routes are best left to those with the know-how for a more technical climb.
Lake Michael rests beneath the rocky heights of Goat Mountain.
Backpackers looking to add some extra days can make a loop by returning to the Trail Creek Trail heading down to the Waptus River Trail #1310, connecting to the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 to go up past Deep Lake to the Cathedral Pass Trail #1345, and then returning to Tucquala Meadows (see Hike 96 for a more detailed description).
DISTANCE: 5.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 feet
HIGH POINT: 4800 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 3 to 4 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54348°N, 121.0968°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the Cathedral Pass Trailhead. Privy available.
Journey into the wilderness just far enough to picnic on a quiet beach next to a lovely alpine lake with plenty of lakeshore to explore. Nearby campsites have been used for generations, making Squaw Lake an excellent choice for a family backpacking adventure.
From the Cathedral Pass Trailhead (officially part of the Tucquala Meadows Trailhead), take a moment before you head down the trail to look up at the exposed heights of Cathedral Rock. That rocky summit presides over the valley and will be a constant, welcome presence throughout the entire hike. Begin by following the Cathedral Pass Trail #1345 over the Cle Elum River on a sturdy bridge, leaving the wildflower-filled meadows behind. March along roadbed for a short time before transitioning to trail and entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.4 mile.
Brushy undergrowth thins as you climb long switchbacks, and the firs and hemlocks grow older and bigger. Cathedral Rock peeks through gaps in the canopy as you climb, and eventually the trail begins to level out near the junction with the Trail Creek Trail #1322 that branches off to the left at the 2.0-mile mark. Continue onward past the junction along the Cathedral Pass Trail.
The trail again steepens, climbing to reveal long views of the valley below. Reach the waters of Squaw Lake at 2.7 miles and find plenty of campsites and day-use areas just off the trail (a backcountry toilet is also available here). Drop your gear and take in this little lake. Squaw Lake is not the largest or most stunning alpine lake, but it has a certain charm. Gaze at the ridge across the water, with its layers of talus, underbrush, and trees. Follow boot paths around the lake and explore, or find a quiet spot and take in Cathedral Rock rising above it all.
Short day hikes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness are few and far between. Those with enough elevation to feel like you’ve gotten a taste of the wild are even harder to find. Squaw Lake has a bit of Goldilocks’ “just right” about it, providing almost any hiker with the opportunity to get a taste of what the Alpine Lakes Wilderness has to offer.
Day trippers can push another 1.6 miles up to Cathedral Pass for closer look at Cathedral Rock and views of Deep Lake and the sprawling wilderness below. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot some mountain goats picking their way across Cathedral Rock’s jagged outcroppings. Not far beyond the pass is the junction leading out to Peggys Pond, a rough 0.6-mile scramble out to a lovely tarn. Those overnighting at Squaw might consider a longer day hike down to Deep Lake (Hike 55) or a long haul out to Lake Michael (Hike 53).
Multiple campsites along the shores of Squaw Lake make it a great option for first-time backpackers.
While there has long been a trail up to Squaw Lake, the current route up to Cathedral Pass is relatively new, a product of trail reroutes and updates in the mid-1970s. Before that time, Squaw Lake was a destination unto itself, a side trip and favored rest stop along the Cascade Crest Trail that reached Deep Lake by heading down the Trail Creek Trail past Squitch Lake, then climbing steeply over the ridge to drop into the Spinola Creek Valley. The route then followed Spinola Creek up to Deep Lake, just as it does today.
DISTANCE: 15.0 miles to Deep Lake; 19.0 miles to Lake Vicente
ELEVATION GAIN: 2200 feet in, 1200 feet out to Deep Lake; 3300 feet in, 1200 feet out to Lake Vicente
HIGH POINT: 5600 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate; hard to Lake Vicente
HIKING TIME: 8 to 12 hours or overnight
BEST SEASON: Early summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic; light to Lake Vicente
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle, USGS Mount Daniel; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54348°N, 121.0968°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends. The final approach to Lake Vicente is a very steep scramble over indistinct trail and may require some routefinding; approach with caution.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the Cathedral Pass Trailhead. Privy available.
This hike is a classic, offering some of the best the Alpine Lakes Wilderness has to offer: a pristine alpine lake, views of the surrounding rugged landscape, and the quiet solace of the wilderness. While strong hikers can tackle this trail as a day hike, the distance really lends itself better to an overnight or a multiday exploration of the area, as there are a number of destinations nearby, including a popular scramble route up Mount Daniel by way of Peggys Pond.
As you gear up for your hike, look up toward craggy Cathedral Rock jutting dramatically into the skyline, giving you a taste of what lies ahead. From the Cathedral Pass Trailhead (officially part of the Tucquala Meadows Trailhead), follow the rocky Cathedral Pass Trail #1345, crossing the Cle Elum River on a bridge, then a few creeks, before beginning a series of long switchbacks, slowly ratcheting up the mountainside. At 0.4 mile the trail enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, drawing you past brushy undergrowth and deeper into dark stands of hemlock and fir.
Soon the trail begins to level out, and at 2.0 miles reach a junction where the Trail Creek Trail #1322 branches off to the left. Continue ahead on Cathedral Pass Trail for another 0.7 mile to your first destination, Squaw Lake (Hike 54). A number of campsites around this little lake, as well as a backcountry toilet, make it a decent option for a quick overnight with the kids or base camp for exploring nearby trails.
Cathedral Rock is reflected in the tranquil waters of Deep Lake.
From Squaw Lake, the trail begins a long, rocky traverse up toward Cathedral Pass, offering sporadic views of the Wenatchee Mountains just to the east, while skirting past the occasional tarn or campsite. Continue to push upward through thinning subalpine forest for 1.5 miles from the lake to the connection with the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) at 4.2 miles. Cathedral Pass is only 0.1 mile up ahead, so climb the last few feet to the 5400-foot pass. Do not expect too much fanfare when you arrive at the pass—there is little in the way of big sweeping views. But take a moment to scan the cliffs for mountain goats before beginning the long descent into the Spinola Valley.
Over the pass, the trail is a breeze. Wide and almost smooth, it gently guides you down the mountainside. At the first big switchback is the junction with Peggys Pond Trail #1375—this lovely tarn is worth a visit, though the 0.6-mile trail to reach it is somewhat challenging to navigate. Most hikers continue down to Spinola Meadows and the shores of Deep Lake.
As you descend, enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Deep Lake and the valley below as well as Circle Lake Falls cascading down the opposite side of the valley. Depending on the season, the waterfall can put on quite a show before the views disappear behind the trees as you reenter the forest. Eventually you reach the bottom where the old growth gives way to meadow. Here the barren cliffs of Cathedral Rock loom above Deep Lake, demanding your attention as you take in the panorama. At 7.4 miles find a spur trail leading toward the lakeshore. Take some time to explore before settling in—there are plenty of campsites around the lake for those planning to spend the night here, and you can afford to find the best vantage point to absorb this gorgeous alpine landscape.
Unless you’re planning to overnight at Lake Vicente, stash your heavy gear at Deep Lake. When you’re ready, push onward to the hike’s final challenge: Lake Vicente. Reach it by continuing another 0.4 mile down the PCT to a junction with a trail leading up the mountainside. This is the Lake Vicente Trail #1365; veer right and follow it past Deer Lakes and its campsites in 0.3 mile and into an open creek valley. The trail becomes indistinct at this point, as past flooding and landslides have largely covered it. When in doubt, simply follow the creek, eventually reaching the end of the valley. Then climb, scramble, and pull your way up the steep headwall, following faint indications of the trail scratched into the rock. Vicente Creek tumbles loudly down the headwall as you clamber over talus and carefully cross often-slick granite slabs to reach the shores of lonesome Lake Vicente, 1.6 miles from the junction. Find one good campsite near the lake outlet and enjoy the lake’s deep aquamarine waters. Do not expect company here, a distant 9.6 miles from the trailhead—you’re very likely to get these rocky shores and rubble-strewn slopes all to yourself.
Of course, a quick side trip out to Peggys Pond is worth the short semiscramble. The pond also serves as a base camp for those heading up Lynch Glacier to one of Mount Daniel’s peaks.
In the late 1800s, prospectors and sheepherders were far more common in the Salmon La Sac area than hikers. One of these prospectors was a gold miner named James “Jimmy” Grieve, who was likely the first to scale Cathedral Rock. As a result, it was known both as Grieve’s Peak and Jimmy’s Jumpoff for years. The name did not sound regal enough for the Forest Service, however, so someone in the 1940s or ’50s decided Cathedral Rock was a better fit. Grieve had several claims in the area and built a cabin near Peggys Pond that was a popular site for hikers to visit for decades, though it is little more than a pile of crumbling logs today.
The story behind other place names here is a bit murkier. Supposedly it was Spanish-speaking shepherds who inspired Albert H. Sylvester to give the Spinola Meadows and Vicente Creek and Lake their names. Deep Lake, unsurprisingly, was named for its depth, perhaps by the same folks who decided Grieve’s Peak bore a striking resemblance to a cathedral.
DISTANCE: 5.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 100 feet
HIGH POINT: 3500 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 2 to 3 hours
BEST SEASON: Spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy foot traffic; moderate equestrian traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle, USGS Mt. Daniel; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5451°N, 121.0977°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the end of the road and Deception Pass Trailhead (aka Tucquala Meadows Trailhead). Privy available.
Looking north from the shore of Hyas Lake toward the lower prominences of Mount Daniel
Short, sweet, and easily accessible Hyas Lake is both a popular day hike and a well-worn base camp for backpackers seeking (or returning from) adventures in the farther reaches of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Set dramatically beneath Cathedral Rock, this sprawling shallow lake offers engaging views and plenty of room to find your own secluded spot along the shore.
From the Tucquala Meadows Trailhead, follow Deception Pass Trail #1376 as it enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in 0.1 mile and glides up through second-generation mixed forest on a slight incline. The boot-pounded, wide trail is easy to navigate and filled with bright clearings that become a sea of green awash with color when wildflowers and flowering brush are in bloom. The incline quickly settles into a nearly flat trail, threading through trees and meadows and crossing a couple of large streams rushing down the mountainside to the Cle Elum River below. The exposed cliffs of Cathedral Rock peek through the trees, putting on the occasional show when the canopy opens up.
After a quick 2.0 miles, arrive at campsites and your first access to the lake. Hyas Lake is long. It’s another 0.7 mile to Little Hyas Lake, a small lake just far enough beyond the end of Hyas Lake to perhaps be considered a distinct body of water, yet close enough that when water levels are particularly high, it can seem like they’re both one slightly bigger lake. Some maps don’t bother to differentiate between the two.
As you follow the lakeshore, find ample opportunities to trek down to the water and pop your head out of the trees for a view of Cathedral Rock and Mount Daniel—but, arguably, the better perspectives are down near Little Hyas, at 2.7 miles. The campsites here are a good turnaround point for day hikers.
The hike to Hyas Lake is ideal for little boots and burgeoning backpackers. Even the most reluctant hiker cannot object to the ease of the trail. Abundant wildflowers in the spring and early summer are a great reason to hit this trail early in the season before the mosquitos and high-season crowds arrive.
Beyond Little Hyas Lake, the trail switchbacks up the valley wall, steeply climbing past the junction to Tuck and Robin Lakes (Hike 57) to reach Deception Pass; the junction with the Lake Clarice Trail #1066 (Hike 58); and the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT), which can be followed for the Cathedral Rock and Deception Pass Loop (Hike 59).
Hyas is Chinook Jargon for “big” or “great.” Many hikers and fishermen refer to Hyas Lake as “Big Lake,” though that name never appears on official maps of the area. It was here at Hyas Lake over a long weekend of backpacking in the 1970s that the Alpine Lakes Protection Society (ALPS) was conceived and formed, a group that was later instrumental in creating the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
DISTANCE: 12.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2900 feet
HIGH POINT: 6300 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy foot traffic, moderate equestrian traffic to Hyas Lake; moderate to heavy foot traffic to Tuck and Robin Lakes
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle, USGS Mt. Daniel; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5451°N, 121.0977°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends.
Pause on your climb to Tuck Lake to take in views of Hyas Lake, Mount Daniel, and Cathedral Rock.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the end of the road and Deception Pass Trailhead (aka Tucquala Meadows Trailhead). Privy available.
Remote and famously challenging, the hike up to Tuck and Robin Lakes is something of a rite of passage for many hikers. Despite the rough ascent and a trail that is difficult to follow in places, the rugged skylines, captivating views, and jaw-dropping lakes are not to be missed. Depending on snow levels, aim for late spring or late fall to minimize the crowds that flock to these fabled lakes. Arrive early if you’re planning an overnight up at Robin Lakes, as sites along the water fill up quickly. Mosquitos are also abundant in midsummer so come prepared.
From the trailhead, follow the Deception Pass Trail #1376 as it begins easily, gliding through mixed forest and frequent clearings that burst with wildflowers and flowering brush during the spring and summer. Almost entirely flat, the first 2.0 miles quickly disappear, and you find yourself standing on the quiet shores of Hyas Lake (Hike 56), taking in the contours of Cathedral Rock as it looms above the water. Continue onward, passing a number of campsites along the lakeshore. These are a great option for a quick backpack or a waypoint on a longer excursion into the wilderness.
Once you reach the end of Little Hyas Lake at 2.7 miles, the trail begins to climb toward Deception Pass, switchbacking up the mountainside for 1.3 miles to the signed junction with the Robin Lakes Trail #1376.1. Turn right onto the Robin Lakes Trail, which initially feels very similar, wandering pleasantly over streams and through dense forest.
Within a few tenths of a mile, the trail becomes serious, steeply climbing up a narrow trail increasingly made of roots and loose rock. The mile up to Tuck Lake gains 1000 feet, most of it by plowing straight up the mountain. Fortunately, frequent gaps in the tree line provide ever-grander views of Mount Daniel and Cathedral Rock, a welcome distraction during frequent stops to give your legs a rest.
Once the trail begins to level out, Tuck Lake is not far away. Crest the lake basin at 5.0 miles and make your way to the water to take in the rugged landscape. Rocky bluffs and cliffs rise high above the lake, spotted with trees and vegetation clinging to the steep slopes. Regroup here, but do not be tempted to set up camp. Robin Lakes is well worth the extra effort.
The trickiest part is here, as trails seem to snake off in many different directions, making the route difficult to follow. Cairns can be a helpful guide, though even these stake out competing routes. Work your way along Tuck’s lakeshore, aiming for the stream between Tuck and Tucks Pot. This approach will require you to climb up rocky bluffs and drop back down again, crossing the mass of logs piled at the lake’s outlet. Once you’re across, there will be a series of ups and downs for about 0.1 mile until you leave Tuck Lake behind, and the trail begins its steep ascent.
This section of trail is even steeper than the approach to Tuck Lake, but firmer footing helps make your next mile of relentless climbing a little easier. As you approach your destination, leave the last of the diminutive alpine trees behind and climb straight up exposed granite, eventually traversing your way toward Robin Lakes. The trail leads to a barren prominence above the lakes, and here you can see why some hikers refer to this area as the “Little Enchantments.” To your right, Mount Daniel stands massively, taking up a good chunk of the horizon. To your left, the Robin Lakes sit in bowls of granite, a lunar landscape sparsely dotted with a few trees, 6.2 miles into the wild. Head down to the lakes to explore, finding campsites along the shore and hidden upslope. Make sure to visit the farthest lake, as the view of Mount Daniel rising above the waters is stunning.
This is a challenging hike, largely due to the rough and difficult-to-follow trail. Despite the difficulty, the otherworldly terrain makes it an extremely popular destination during the summer months. Keep an eye out for the mountain goats that often frolic in the lingering snows here, and marmots and pika are not uncommon. It’s easy to spend hours exploring this alpine wonderland set against an enchanting backdrop.
There are a number of scrambling options from Robin Lakes, including climbing to the top of Granite Mountain and Trico Mountain, both of which are usually well marked by cairns. The Granite Mountain Potholes are another popular destination just a few tenths of a mile beyond Robin Lakes.
DISTANCE: 18.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1900 feet in; 500 feet out
HIGH POINT: 4900 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy foot traffic, moderate equestrian traffic to Hyas Lake; light foot traffic to Marmot Lake
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle, USGS Mt. Daniel; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5451°N, 121.0977°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the end of the road and Deception Pass Trailhead (aka Tucquala Meadows Trailhead). Privy available.
Marmot Lake from the scramble route up to Jade Lake
Cradled in the arms of Terrace Mountain are two alpine beauties: Marmot Lake and Lake Clarice. Beyond the reach of all but the most dedicated day hikers and trail runners, these quiet lakes rest languidly in rocky bowls that are the soul of wilderness. Big brother Marmot Lake is the larger and more popular destination, while often-overlooked Lake Clarice offers a kind of solitude that is difficult to find in this area.
The first leg of your journey takes you out to Hyas Lake (Hike 56), following the gentle grade of the Deception Pass Trail #1376 from Tucquala Meadows 2.0 miles through flower-filled meadows and second-growth forest to the edge of the lake. Enjoy the view before pressing on to the end of the lake and the beginning of the 1900 feet of elevation gain to Marmot Lake. The route switchbacks with increasing steepness up the valley walls for 1.3 miles to the signed junction with the Robin Lakes Trail #1376.1. Deception Pass is another 0.5 mile up ahead.
Deception Pass is a crossroads for a number of trails that merge in a wide hollow. Here the Deception Pass Trail ends as it connects to the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT). Taking the PCT south will lead back toward Tucquala Meadows via the highlands above Hyas Lake, eventually connecting with the Cathedral Pass Trail #1345. To the north, the PCT passes a junction with the Deception Creek Trail #1059 a few hundred feet beyond the pass. Find the signed Lake Clarice Trail #1066 on the far side of the hollow to continue your journey.
Leave the pass behind and begin climbing past small tarns and through petite meadows as the trail makes its way over a small hump known as Blue Ridge before dropping down into a grassy, cliff-lined bowl 1.3 miles from Deception Pass. Here find the seasonal waterfalls feeding marshy Hozzbizz Lake, easily accessed by a number of boot paths branching off into the heather. The lake fuels Hozzbizz Creek, your new trail companion as you cross the water and descend to the bottom of the valley and then immediately start to work your way back up again. Continue climbing, eventually crossing Marmot Lake’s curiously unnamed outlet stream and reaching the junction with the Marmot Lake Trail #1066.1 at the 7.9-mile mark. Veer left for Marmot Lake, another 0.4 mile up ahead; head right for Lake Clarice, 0.8 mile distant.
Marmot Lake is the better choice for overnight accommodations, as it has several sites, whereas Lake Clarice has only a single tent site to offer. Both lakes are lovely, though Lake Clarice is certainly the more dramatic, with tall exposed cliffs rising from half the shoreline. At the same time, the trail out to Lake Clarice does not get nearly the traffic that Marmot Lake does, so it often gets a little overgrown. Establish your base camp at Marmot Lake and visit both.
Whether it’s a single overnight or part of a multiday trek, a visit to this pair of lakes is never disappointing. There are certainly more remote places to visit in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, but few offer the same flexibility of options for further exploration.
The Marmot Lake Trail continues around Marmot Lake to a field of boulders and scree leading straight up the mountainside. Cairns mark a steep scramble that leads up past stunning views of Marmot Lake below, then through the meadows around No Name Lake and eventually to the prize of Jade Lake. Fed by Jade Glacier, the milky emerald waters are a sight to behold. This route is challenging and rough, but for those with enough endurance, it is a worthy adventure.
It is also possible (with a few more trail miles) to approach these lakes from the north via Deception Creek or Surprise Lake (Hikes 69 and 70).
Marmot Lake is named for the abundance of marmots in the area.
DISTANCE: 13.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2800 feet
HIGH POINT: 5500 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Summer to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot and equestrian traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Mt. Daniel, USGS The Cradle; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54348°N, 121.0968°W
NOTES: Scatter Creek cuts across FR 4330 9.2 miles from the guard station, making the road impassable when the water is high. Parking is scarce on summer weekends. The hike requires multiple river fords and creek crossings that are easier to navigate later in the season.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Roslyn, Exit 80. Eastbound turn left; westbound turn right, following Bullfrog Road 2.8 miles to the traffic circle junction with State Route 903. Follow SR 903 toward Roslyn for 16.6 miles through the town and along Cle Elum Lake to just beyond the Salmon La Sac guard station, where the road splits. Keep right, continuing toward Tucquala Lake along Forest Road 4330 (aka Fish Lake Road or Cle Elum Valley Road) on dirt and gravel for 12.3 miles to the Cathedral Pass Trailhead. Privy available.
This classic backpack route tours the Cle Elum Valley, from the heights of Cathedral Pass to the shores of Hyas Lake on the valley floor. Camp near alpine lakes, ford snowmelt-driven creeks, and wander through wildflower-filled meadowlands on this approachable and enjoyable wilderness adventure. While this loop can be done in either direction, the grade is steepest on the stretch of trail from Tucquala Meadows up to Cathedral Pass. By beginning along the Cathedral Pass Trail, you attack the elevation early and spend most of your hiking time gently descending back down to the meadows. Plus, by looping clockwise you can camp in the high country rather than spending the night somewhere along Hyas Lake.
Gear up with Cathedral Rock looming high above and dominating the horizon. The day’s goal is to reach the base of that jutting rock a little over 4 miles distant. Begin by following the Cathedral Pass Trail #1345 as it leads away from the waving grasses of Tucquala Meadows over the Cle Elum River on a footbridge. Wide and nearly flat, the route heads straight for the ridge wall, where it transitions from old road bed to trail and begins to switchback up the slope. Cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.4 mile and continue pressing upward while the brushy understory soon thins, replaced by ever-larger trunks of fir and hemlock.
At 2.0 miles the trail briefly plateaus at the junction with the Trail Creek Trail #1322. Signs here point to Waptus Lake (Hike 48) and Lake Michael (Hike 53), both quite a few miles away. Save those lakes for another day and continue along the Cathedral Pass Trail as it again steepens.
The trail climbs another 0.7 mile before delivering you to Squaw Lake (Hike 54). Take a few minutes to pause and enjoy this pretty little lake. Paths snake around the lakeside and there is room to roam. There are excellent campsites here for hikers who are planning a multinight tour or are otherwise ready to camp.
A backpacker pauses to admire Cathedral Rock.
The trail continues past the lake, beginning a long, rocky traverse up to Cathedral Pass. Along the way enjoy views of the Wenatchee Mountains just to the east and the vibrant greens of the river valley below. The trail snakes past the occasional tarn as it pushes up through subalpine forest for another 1.5 miles of widening views to reach the Pacific Crest Trail #2000 (PCT) at the 4.2-mile mark. While there is decent camping at the large unnamed tarn a few hundred feet before the PCT junction, complete with valley vistas just off the trail, there is an even better option less than a mile away: Peggys Pond. Those willing to add a little extra mileage and effort can reach it by continuing over 5400-foot Cathedral Pass to the signed junction with the Peggys Pond Trail #1375. From there it’s a somewhat difficult 0.6-mile traverse on primitive trail to the lake. Bunk down for the night in a gorgeous alpine landscape complete with a crystal-clear lake set beneath the towering heights of Cathedral Rock and the glacier-clad shoulders of Mount Daniel.
From the junction, the PCT wanders the high bluffs at the base of Cathedral Rock, beginning a long and very gradual descent toward Deception Pass. Views are plentiful, as is the potential to see some wildlife, whether it be mountain goats that frequent Cathedral Rock’s ledges or marmots and pikas common along the talus slopes. Spot the rocky crowns of Granite Mountain and Trico Mountain rising above the sprawling Hyas Lakes below, a long swath of blue filling the bottom of the green valley. The oftwildflower-lined trail is a breeze, the main challenge being the two creek fords you must navigate. Signs at either end of this stretch of trail warn that these fords can be dangerous and should be avoided when the waters are high. Reach the first creek at the 6.0-mile mark, and Daniel Creek at 7.2 miles. Of the two, Daniel Creek is deeper and swifter. Late in the season, these fords are unlikely to pose any real difficulty, but do not underestimate the strength of these waters barreling down the mountainside at breakneck speeds. When it doubt, retreat to hike another day.
Beyond Daniel Creek, cross through a few scree and talus fields before returning to the sheltering arms of mossy old-growth forest. Soon arrive at Deception Pass and the junction with the Deception Pass Trail #1376. Here find the Lake Clarice Trail #1066 leading out to Marmot Lake (Hike 58). Save that adventure for another day, and instead, veer off the PCT and follow the Deception Pass Trail as it heads down toward the Hyas Lakes and begins the long trek back to the trailhead.
In 0.5 mile, pass the Robin Lakes Trail #1376.1, and continue to descend through dense forest, ping-ponging down steep switchbacks before leveling out near the first campsite along Little Hyas Lake. From here the well-trodden trail glides through the trees, passing numerous opportunities to go out to the water to take in the landscape. Here again Cathedral Rock is the centerpiece, standing proudly over the sparkling waters of Hyas Lake. Pass more campsites as you progress, soon reaching the last lakeside campsite. From here the trail leaves the water for the last 2.0 miles through second-growth forest and wildflower-filled meadows to the parking area. Emerge from the trees into Tucquala Meadows to complete the loop and end your 13.4-mile journey.
Aside from a trek out to Peggys Pond, a few side trips are well within reach for those planning an overnight. A trip down to Deep Lake (Hike 55) is an easy addition for those staying at Peggys Pond. While challenging, there is time to include a side trip up to Tuck and Robin Lakes (Hike 57), but rather than a rushed day trip, you are far better off budgeting an extra night in the wilderness to fully explore the “Little Enchantments.”
DISTANCE: 8.8 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2100 feet in; 100 feet out
HIGH POINT: 6500 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Early summer to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Mt. Stuart; Green Trails Mount Stuart No. 209
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4366°N, 120.937°W
NOTE: High-clearance vehicle recommended.
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Exit 85, following signs to State Route 970; merge onto SR 970 and continue 6.5 miles to Teanaway Road. Turn left and continue 13.1 miles, trading pavement for gravel to reach a fork just past 29 Pines Campground. Veer right onto Forest Road 9737 (North Fork Teanaway Road), following it 9.6 miles to the road end and the Esmeralda Trailhead. Note that additional forks branch off FR 9737 and could cause confusion. Once you’re on FR 9737, always veer left when in doubt. Privy available.
Rock gardens and wildflower-filled creek basins, dusty trail and rugged vistas: the ever-popular hike out to Lake Ingalls is a delight. Teeming with mountain goats, the lake is a quintessential alpine lake, one that all hikers should have on their list of destinations.
From the Esmeralda Basin Trailhead, follow the Esmeralda Basin Trail #1394 on what remains of an old mining road up the hillside into the pines. Reach the Lake Ingalls Trail #1390 after a short 0.3 mile, and follow it as it veers right and begins to climb. The trail switchbacks up the mountainside, climbing steadily for 1.2 miles through open country.
At 1.5 miles, reach the junction with the Longs Pass Trail #1229. The views are almost immediately phenomenal. The Esmeralda Peaks are the nearest craggy, cliffy edifice, with dozens more mountaintops surrounding it. Alternate between savoring this engaging landscape and keeping an eye on the trail to avoid the loose stones that invariably find their way underfoot.
The rugged shore of Lake Ingalls with Mount Stuart in the distance
Continue past the Longs Pass junction, and begin a long upward traverse toward Ingalls Pass. Roll past boulders along the dusty trail, eyeing mesmerizing views. A few scattered trees crop up along the trail, but most of your sightline is unobstructed. Savor it all as you push up and over 6500-foot Ingalls Pass at 3.1 miles, entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness as you do. The jagged Stuart Range now takes the stage, with Mount Stuart rising above the rest. Take in the Ingalls Creek Valley below Stuart. Look north to the heights of Ingalls Peak and below it, still hidden from view, Lake Ingalls.
Press onward into the Headlight Basin, named for Headlight Creek that flows through it—the name likely a legacy of the area’s prospecting days. The trail splits shortly after the pass, the way to the right signed “Ingalls Way Alternate #1390.2.” The main path heads left, hugging the rim of the basin, while the alternate veers slightly right on a more direct route to the lake, plunging down into the basin, then climbing back out again on the other side. The main trail has more mileage, the alternate more elevation. Either route is a romp through patchy wildflower meadows, rock gardens, and trickling streams. Camping is prohibited at Lake Ingalls, so those overnighting should opt for the cross-basin approach, which passes a few more campsites en route.
Day hikers should keep left on the main trail, as it affords the best views. Press toward Ingalls Peak for an enjoyable mile-long tour of Headlight Basin, connecting with the alternate trail at a boulder field near the creek at 4.1 miles. It’s a short but tough scramble up to the lake from here. Work your way up through the scree to reach the rocky, barren lakeside, likely populated by a goat or three. Find a quiet spot on a giant slab of rock and take in the stunning setting.
From the lake it is not much farther to scramble up to Stuart Pass, following a faint boot path around the west side of the lake. Those planning a longer trip can then continue down from the pass along the Jack Creek Trail #1558 or the Ingalls Creek Trail #1215 (Hike 97).
There are a lot of Ingallses in the area—a peak, a lake, a creek, and a pass. All of them were named for and possibly by Captain Benjamin Ingalls, who led a survey expedition over the Wenatchee Mountains in 1855. He is credited with being the first prospector to discover gold in the area, though the gold find was not reported as part of the survey, and there has been a great deal of speculation over the years regarding exactly when and where Captain Ingalls made his discovery. We do know that Ingalls intended to return in 1861 to claim his riches—reportedly an alpine lake lined with gold quartz.
He never made it. A tree branch snagged on Ingalls’s pack and whipped backward into the man behind him, causing the man to fire the fifty-caliber rifle he was carrying into Ingalls’s back. As he lay dying on the banks of the Columbia River, Ingalls sketched out the location of his find before passing away two days later. The site he described was never found, becoming the stuff of legend. The quest to find the lake of gold drew fortune hunters to the area, and the legend and tragic end of Captain Ingalls led to the sprinkling of the Ingalls name over this section of wilderness.
Prospecting promoted by the legendary Ingalls gold lent the area names like Fortune Pass and Headlight Creek. Adits and shafts were dug in the area, and enough ore was pulled out of the nearby Tip Top prospect to prompt the building of a primitive mill. In the end, there was never enough mineral wealth found to prompt major mining work in the Ingalls Creek drainage.
DISTANCE: 3.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 350 feet
HIGH POINT: 5361 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 2 to 3 hours
BEST SEASON: Early spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Red Top Mountain; Green Trails Mount Stuart No. 209, Green Trails Liberty No. 210
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.2975°N, 120.7603°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Exit 85, following signs for State Route 970. Merge onto SR 970 and continue 16.6 miles, as SR 970 turns into Highway 97, to Forest Road 9738 on the left, just beyond the Mineral Creek Campground. Take FR 9738 for 2.6 winding miles to FR 9702, signed “Red Top Mountain.” Turn left onto FR 9702 and continue another 4.5 miles to the trailhead parking area. Privy available.
This short loop hike has it all: incredible views, a restored fire lookout, and a tour of agate fields favored by rock hounds. The hike delivers big rewards without much strain, making it a popular choice for young families and those looking to stretch their legs while on their way to other destinations.
From the trailhead, follow old roadbed toward the lookout perched on a finger of granite just above the treetops. After 0.2 mile, reach the signed junction with the Red Top Trail #1364.1 and the Teanaway Ridge Trail #1364, which marks the beginning of the loop. The views and the lookout are to your left, as is the steepest grade. The agate fields are to the right, but head left first to get the work out of the way and enjoy the vistas earlier in the day. During the spring and early summer, wildflowers are common along this stretch of trail, splashing purples, yellows, and whites across the red-gray rocks.
The sign suggests it’s 0.5 mile to the lookout, but it is not even half that distance; the steep trail delivers you to the top in about 0.2 mile. While the lookout cabin is staffed in the summer and they are happy to answer any questions you have, you’re likely to be distracted by the sweeping views. Snowy Mount Rainier dominates the southern skyline. The north is a sea of rocky spires, Mount Stuart rising high along the Stuart Range. Swing east to cast your gaze over the dozens of prominences in the Chelan and Entiat Mountains. To the northwest find the Teanaway peaks.
Soak up the views and poke your head into the lookout to see the historic equipment they have, including a working Osborne Firefinder, before continuing along the trail as it descends the bluff. In 0.2 mile reach another junction, this time with the Teanaway Ridge Trail and the Blue Creek Trail #1364.2. On your return, you’ll take the Teanaway Ridge Trail to the right to loop back to the trailhead. For now, ignore the Blue Creek Trail and veer left onto the Teanaway Ridge Trail to the agate fields, reaching them at the junction with the Indian Creek Trail #1364.3 at 0.9 mile from the trailhead. Interpretive signs provide information about the rocks found here.
Wander among the rocks until the 1.5-mile mark, when the trail starts to angle downward. It continues out to FR 9738-111 at 2.0 miles and after some forest-road walking regains the Teanaway Ridge Trail. Instead, turn around and work your way back down the trail, passing the junction with the Blue Creek Trail at 2.4 miles. Continue for another 0.6 mile, keeping close to the base of the lookout bluff as you progress, soon closing the loop and arriving back at the parking area.
In 1924 a fire lookout cabin was built on the red-tinted prominence then known as Redtop. The cabin was replaced in 1928 with a more standardized D-6 cupola cabin. Then in 1952, an L-4 tower cabin was added alongside the 1928 cabin on what was increasingly called “Red Top”; the lookout was actively used for decades before it was largely abandoned sometime in the 1970s. Between 1996 and 1997, volunteers restored the Red Top Lookout and returned it to service, and the lookout is now staffed during the summer.
The Stuart Mountain Range dominates the northern horizon from the summit of Red Top Mountain.
DISTANCE: 6.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 900 feet
HIGH POINT: 2900 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 3 to 4 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot and equestrian traffic
MAPS: USGS Blewett, USGS Enchantment Lakes; Green Trails Liberty No. 210, Green Trails Mount Stuart No. 209
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.4629°N, 120.6733°W
GETTING THERE: Take I-90 to Exit 85, following signs to State Route 970. Merge onto SR 970 and continue 37.9 miles, as SR 970 turns into Highway 97, to Ingalls Creek Road on the left. Turn onto the road, cross the bridge, and keep left at the fork, continuing 1.2 miles to the road end and trailhead. Privy available.
Explore the Ingalls Creek Valley on this creekside hike through fields of wildflowers set beneath the towering granite buttress of the Stuart Range. Trek through swaths of burn from relatively recent fires, clamber over boulder fields, and glide through groves of sheltering trees in the company of the rushing waters of Ingalls Creek.
From the trailhead, the Ingalls Creek Trail #1215 begins gently, the wide and dusty trail ascending slightly as it enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.3 mile. Wildflowers are abundant here, a wide variety blooming trailside from spring to midsummer. While the trail has long been known for its dazzling wildflower show, the 2014 wildfires have given the flowers more room to shine.
At 0.8 mile pass a swimming hole that tempts you to take off your boots and take a break from the dusty trail. Pass campsite after campsite as you progress, with a particularly good one at 1.0 mile that is perfect for a first backpack with a little one or a first-timer.
As you progress up the creek, cross streams tumbling down talus fields, hop across rocks, and peer up avalanche chutes at the sharp peaks above. Another good campsite is at 3.0 miles, where the terrain and trail begin to change. This is a good turnaround point for day hikers, as the trail becomes brushier ahead. Settle in for lunch, enjoying your view of Three Brothers on the opposite side of Ingalls Creek.
Long trails like this offer a little something for everyone. They allow day hikers to get a taste of the trail while backpackers can cover a lot of distance without an enormous amount of elevation gain. With lovely views, varied landscapes, a wildflower bonanza, and ample space to stretch out, Ingalls Creek has enough to offer to keep you coming back again and again.
The Ingalls Creek Trail extends 15.5 miles to Stuart Pass. Backpackers can push as far as they would like, with campsites fairly common along the route. But the trail itself is just the beginning. A half dozen trails branch off from Ingalls Creek, though many require fording the creek or balancing across it on a fallen log. Beginning around the 5.5-mile mark, reach the Falls Creek Trail #1216. Signs point across the water toward forested slopes and steep grades. Also in this area, find the grave of Fred Ericson, a man who owned a cabin nearby and was killed in an avalanche in 1928.
Ingalls Creek is your constant companion as you hike deeper into the valley.
Beyond Falls Creek reach trails leading up various creek drainages including Cascade, Hardscrabble, Fourth, and Turnpike Creeks. If you prefer passes, you have the option of Longs Pass or Stuart Pass. See Hike 97 for ideas on farther-flung destinations.
In the 1910s, automobile touring was on the rise, and Washington’s roadways were expanding and improving. The long-sought dream of a reliable roadway from Seattle through the Cascades was realized in 1915 with the dedication of the Sunset Highway, which ran from Spokane to Renton over Snoqualmie Pass. By 1922 it was routed to go over Blewett Pass.
As a result of the increased traffic through Blewett Pass, gas stations and accommodations popped up all along the route, including the Ingalls Creek Lodge, originally built in the 1920s where the Ingalls Creek Trailhead is today. Old pipes and a few crumbling foundations found here date back to that building. In 1942 the lodge was purchased by Edmond and Florence Archambault. In 1956 the Sunset Highway was expanded and rerouted, which required moving the lodge. The Archambaults moved it 1.3 miles to the other side of the new highway and operated it until 1973, when Florence passed away. The lodge continued to welcome visitors until it burned down around 1985. A replacement lodge was soon built, operating as Ingalls Creek Lodge until 2015, when it was purchased by the adjoining landowner.