Nada Lake (Hike 81)
Nada Lake (Hike 81)
DISTANCE: 4.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1800 feet
HIGH POINT: 3000 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 3 to 4 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy foot traffic
PERMIT: None
MAPS: USGS Leavenworth; Green Trails Leavenworth No. 178
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5686°N, 120.6809°W
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 1.4 miles to the Icicle Ridge Trailhead sign on the right. Turn right and then make an almost immediate left to the small trailhead parking area.
Pass abundant wildflowers as you climb to the top of Icicle Ridge for big views of the surrounding landscape on this popular hike. Located just outside Leavenworth, Icicle Ridge is part of the sprawling mountainous structure that makes up the northern wall of the Icicle Creek Valley. Just minutes from bustling downtown Leavenworth and easily accessible, the first section of the Icicle Ridge Trail is crowded on summer weekends, so be prepared to share it.
From the trailhead, the Icicle Ridge Trail #1570 begins, with little ceremony, a long series of switchbacks that relentlessly climb up the shoulders of the ridge, offering no reprieve until you reach the ridgeline. Early sections of the trail pass behind a few houses before zigzagging through thin forest and patches of wildflowers. Here too is the only water on the hike before you press upward toward the dusty reaches of the trail. As you climb, clusters of trees offer welcome shade, while breaks in the tree cover provide a window into Icicle Creek Valley in the distance.
The trail crests the ridge in a welcome clearing, complete with several logs to rest on, at 2.1 miles. Here you can peer down the other side of the ridge for your first peek at the Wenatchee River. If it’s early enough in the season, you may be able to see the waters of Dumas Falls tumbling down the exposed cliffs to the north.
While this clearing is a tempting place to stop, veer to the right and continue down the trail to the 2.3-mile mark to find the biggest views. Leavenworth is spread out below, with the Wenatchee River sparkling and shimmering in the sun. Note the charred remains of the trees that once covered this viewpoint, a reminder of the fires that made this panorama possible.
Wildflowers abound on fire-seared Icicle Ridge.
With abundant wildflowers and a spectacular view, the Icicle Ridge Trail has a lot to offer. At the same time, climbing 1800 feet in less than 2.5 miles makes this short trail a little challenging, especially on a hot day, so remember to pack sufficient water for the climb. This trail is also crowded on summer weekends, so be prepared to share it. As always, yield to the hikers who are climbing up.
For those looking for more trail to explore, the Icicle Ridge Trail continues up the ridge from the clearing, passing Fourth of July Creek Trail at 9.0 miles before pressing into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, eventually reaching Frosty Pass at the end of the 29.6-mile trail.
DISTANCE: 13.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 4200 feet
HIGH POINT: 5500 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 9 to 12 hours or overnight
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Snow Zone Enchantments permit for overnight stay
MAPS: USGS Leavenworth, USGS Blewett; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54434°N, 120.7096°W
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue for 4.2 miles to the Snow Lakes Trailhead parking area on the left. Privy available.
The traditional—and some argue best—approach to the fabled Enchantments begins from the Snow Lakes Trailhead. Instead of leaping straight to dessert via Aasgard Pass, the Snow Lakes route delays the magic for as long as possible. The debate is as old as the trails themselves, and there is no right answer, though hikers should try both: they are very different experiences.
Snow Lakes is a challenging but attainable day hike and a decent backpacking destination unto itself, though most folks undertaking the dusty trek intend to push upward into the Enchantments Basin. Because permits to overnight in the core Enchantments zone can be hard to come by, the Snow Lakes—which are outside that special-permit zone—make a perfect base camp for day hiking the area by using the more easily obtained Snow Lakes overnight permit. After all, by the time you’ve made the long grind up to Snow Lakes, it seems a shame to be so close to the Enchantments Basin and not climb up for a visit.
From the road, the Snow Lakes Trail #1553 begins a slow switchback up into the sloping canyon. As you climb, evidence of the fires that ravaged the area in 1994 can still be seen. The skeletons of charred trees line the trail, though after more than twenty years the underbrush has obscured much of the damage. However, the underbrush has yet to grow up enough to provide much in the way of shade, so this first section of the hike has a lot of sun exposure, making it hot and dusty during the summer.
Cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 1.2 miles. As you leave the burn area and the faint smell of ash behind, the trail enters a pine forest and bends closer to Snow Creek, providing access to occasional creekside rest stops. At about 2.0 miles the trail meanders past the large cliff faces of Snow Creek Wall, looming across the creek, and frequented by rock climbers. From here the trail soon begins to veer up the rocky canyon slopes.
Continue another 2.0 miles through talus fields, scattered sections of forest, and brushlined portions of trail to the sturdy footbridge crossing Snow Creek. Soon find yourself sharing the trail with Nada Creek as you push up to the marshy end of Nada Lake at 5.4 miles. While most hikers press onward to Snow Lakes on their quest to reach the Enchantments Basin, some overnight in the quiet solitude of Nada Lake. Several campsites line the lower section of the lake. If nothing else, the shores of Nada Lake are an excellent resting point to recharge for the final push to Snow Lakes, 1.5 miles up the trail.
Continuing onward, the trail quickly and steeply rises up the slopes above Nada Lake, passing campsites along the way. If water is being released from Snow Lakes, you’ll see the spray gushing from the cliffs above the lake. As you get closer, at a switchback in the trail at 6.3 miles, a boot path leads out to the tunnel and the control valves for the drainage system. Push upward through rocky terrain to the shady forests that surround Snow Lakes.
Reach Snow Lakes after 6.8 long miles, following the trail as it leads across the small dam that controls the water level between the lakes. Depending on the time of year, Upper Snow Lake may be quite low, exposing sandy shores covered in the bleached wood of fallen trees. The craggy heights of McClellan Peak and The Temple rise dramatically above Upper Snow Lake, a scene that captures the essence of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Find ample camping around both lakes.
Common throughout the Cascades, American pika are often heard in talus fields.
Continue beyond Snow Lakes to the Enchantments Basin, a challenging journey over exposed rock, up steep scrambles, and past a dozen ever more amazing alpine lakes all the way up to Aasgard Pass itself (see Hikes 82 and 83).
In the 1930s the construction of Grand Coulee Dam had an immediate impact on salmon runs. The US Bureau of Reclamation dealt with the issue through fish hatcheries, one of which was built on Icicle Creek to release into the Wenatchee River below the dam. Unfortunately, the bureau quickly realized that fluctuations in the water levels of Icicle Creek would cause problems for a sustainable hatchery. The problem was a lack of cold water; the solution was to tap the nearby Snow Lakes 7.0 miles upstream.
In 1938 the Forest Service cut a trail up to Nada Lake and the Snow Lakes and established a base camp on Nada Lake. From 1939 to 1942 crews carved a 9-foot-wide, 2250-footlong tunnel through solid granite under Lower Snow Lake to the bottom of Upper Snow Lake. At the same time, a small dam was constructed to regulate the water levels between the upper and lower lakes.
Today, water drains from the bottom of 150-foot-deep Upper Snow Lake to a bulkhead where it is funneled into a pipe and shot out toward Nada Lake. A series of valves controls the amount of water discharged. Typically, the system is in operation around seventy-seven days a year, usually between July and October, releasing an average of 3700 acre-feet of water annually.
DISTANCE: 25.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 6500 feet
HIGH POINT: 7800 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 2 nights
BEST SEASON: Late summer to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.54434°N, 120.7096°W
MAPS: USGS Leavenworth, USGS Blewett, USGS Enchantment Lakes; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Enchantments permit for overnight stay
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation. For reasons explained below, many features in this area are commonly referred to by more than one name. To avoid confusion, the official USGS name is used, followed by the alternate in parentheses.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 4.2 miles to the Snow Lakes Trailhead parking area on the left. Privy available.
The crown jewel of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the Enchantment Lakes Basin is a sprawling fairyland of high lakes, alpine meadows, snow-scoured boulders, and sawtooth ridges. A trip to these fabled highlands is nothing short of magnificent. The Enchantment Lakes Basin can be reached from one of two approaches: from Snow Lakes (Hike 81) or from Colchuck Lake via Aasgard Pass (Hike 83). The Snow Lakes approach is outlined here, as it is somewhat more accessible for most hikers. The price of entry is high, but once you reach this jaw-dropping landscape, you too will believe that the long, tough climb is a small price to pay.
Follow the Snow Lakes Trail #1553 for 6.8 miles to the dam between the two Snow Lakes (Hike 81). Continue on the trail as it contours the upper lake, passing campsites and views of the Temple’s sharp peak and McClellan Peak’s glacial crown. The Snow Lakes are an irrigation reservoir, so the water may have retreated far from the lakeshore, revealing fields of jumbled logs and stumps. Reach the bridge over Snow Creek and good camping at 8.1 miles. From here the trail becomes significantly more challenging, so tighten your pack straps and take one last look at Snow Lakes before starting the climb.
As you work your way up trail chipped into the rock, the trees increasingly yield to everlarger slabs of granite. Snow Creek rushes noisily nearby, often becoming a tumbling cascade as it hurtles down the mountainside—a welcome distraction from the steep ascent. Trudging switchbacks leads to a barren headwall, the first lip of the Enchantments Basin. Scramble up massive boulders and slabs, finding footholds in rebar driven into the stone or chipped into the rock. After much effort, reach the top of the headwall and the shores of Lake Viviane at 9.4 miles. Temple Lake (Naiad Lake) is here too, hidden behind the granite knoll near the lake outlet just above the trail.
Cross Snow Creek as it rushes out of Lake Viviane and work your way up and around a hill of granite to reach the end of Leprechaun Lake at 9.7 miles. Find excellent campsites here, as well as a backcountry toilet. From the campsites, find rocky prominences that offer long views of the Snow Creek Valley and Snow Lakes below.
Larch-lined Leprechaun Lake in bright fall color
Push onward under the sharp spires of Prusik Peak, clambering over boulders and skirting jutting ribs of rock to little Sprite Lake and its campsites. The trail hugs the lakeside and rounds a rocky bluff to reveal Perfection Lake (Rune Lake) at 10.4 miles as it dumps water into Sprite Lake in a tiny cascade. Continue beside Perfection Lake toward a sprawling larch-filled meadow and the junction with the Prusik Pass Trail #6714 at 10.7 miles. The trail leads up to Prusik Pass and on to Shield Lake—as well as one of the best viewpoints in the entire Enchantments Basin. From the rubble-strewn shoulders of Prusik Peak, you can take in the full parade of lakes from Lake Viviane all the way up to Little Annapurna and the top of Dragontail Peak. The junction with the Prusik Pass trail also marks the end of the Lower Enchantment Basin. There are several comfortable campsites here for those who would prefer to day trip to the upper basin.
A short climb delivers you to Inspiration Lake (Talisman Lake) at 10.9 miles. From here the trail angles upward to climb into true alpine tundra where it is windier, colder, and a little less hospitable. Push your way up a boulder-filled creek gully to reach a vast meadowland riddled with ponds and streams. Some call this area the Brisingamen Lakelets; you will simply call it enchanting. This is a popular area to drop your pack and set up camp, as there are established camps and a backcountry toilet.
Continue pushing onward and find an unsigned but well-trodden scramble route at 11.4 miles, leading out and up to the top of Little Annapurna. You’ll also find sweeping views of the Lower Enchantment Basin, including Crystal Lake tucked into a cirque between McClellan Peak and Little Annapurna.
Beyond the meadows, the trail enters a gray moonscape of talus, rock, and glacial till, contrasting with the stark white of the Snow Creek Glacier and the icy blue of the lakes and tarns. At the 12.2-mile mark the trail cuts between Tranquil Lake (Lake Freya) and a view of the largest lake in the Upper Enchantment Basin, Isolation Lake (Brynhild Lake). From here, it’s a short 0.4-mile hike through a boulder field to reach windblown Aasgard Pass (officially Colchuck Pass, though no one seems interested in using that name). From the pass, look down the broad talus-covered slope to the turquoise waters of Colchuck Lake and out toward Mountaineer Creek Valley. From here, wander back down into the basin where water cascades over rock, snow and glaciers cling to mountain slopes, and countless stepping stones invite exploring.
A climb up to the meadowy summit of Little Annapurna requires some routefinding, but the cairn-marked trail involves almost no scrambling, and the views from the summit are commanding and vast. Alternatively, through-hikers can drop down Aasgard Pass, navigating rubble and scree to Colchuck Lake (Hike 83), then leaving the boulders to arrive at good camping at 1.6 miles from the pass.
Around the early 1900s, Forest Supervisor Albert H. Sylvester spent the night near Snow Lakes, then known as Twin Lakes. He trekked up Snow Creek to find a series of unnamed alpine lakes he found “enchanting” and promptly named the group Enchantment Lakes. Sylvester’s discovery brought more visitors, who gave local names to the lakes and prominences they found, though not in any official or systematic way.
That changed in 1959 when Bill and Peggy Stark first visited the region. Their experience was life-changing. They became tireless advocates for the Enchantments Basin, returning every year for the next thirty-five years, naming features along the way. The couple ended up drawing a topographical map labeling those features in 1967, and the names they chose proved to be incredibly popular with hikers, climbers, and other outdoor adventurers who visited the area.
Over time the US Board on Geographic Names officially adopted many, but not all, of the Starks’ names. Despite that choice, many a hiker and hiking guide prefer the Norse and Arthurian names chosen by the Starks, and references to those names can confuse the uninitiated. For that reason, we’ve included both the official and the Starks’ names here.
DISTANCE: 8.8 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2300 feet
HIGH POINT: 5600 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 6 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Colchuck Zone Enchantments permit for overnight stay
MAPS: USGS Cashmere Mountain, USGS Enchantment Lakes; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.52774°N, 120.8208°W
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 8.4 miles to Eightmile Road (FR 7601). Turn left and follow gravel FR 7601 over Icicle Creek about 4 miles to the road end and parking area for Colchuck Lake and Lake Stuart Trailhead, at the far end of the lot. Privy available.
Nestled in a rocky cirque surrounded by sharp, craggy mountains, Colchuck Lake and its aquamarine waters host multitudes of hikers every year. Dragontail and Colchuck Peaks steal the show, while a far-flung rocky spine of the Enchantment Peaks guards the eastern shore. The setting is so enticing that visitors happily overlook the steep ascent and rougher portions of the trail for their chance to visit this alpine beauty.
Colchuck Peak reflected in Colchuck Lake’s dazzling waters
The Stuart Lake Trail #1599 begins by following Mountaineer Creek into a mixed forest of alder and pine. At 0.3 mile, the gentle trail crosses into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and the canopy slowly opens as you pass through talus fields and across log bridges. The rushing sounds of the creek remain a fairly constant companion as you steadily gain elevation along the hardpacked trail increasingly lined with lodgepole and ponderosa pines. You’ll cross Mountaineer Creek on a large log bridge around the 1.5-mile mark and soon arrive at the junction with the Colchuck Lake Trail #1599.1 (sometimes referred to as #1599A). The 2.2 miles you’ve gone so far have been relatively easy—that is about to change as you head left to push up toward Colchuck Lake.
From the junction, the once-friendly trail becomes steep, rocky, and difficult, with roots and rocks dominating the trail bed and tight switchbacks becoming common. As you navigate tricky sections of trail, keep an eye out for reasons to stop and catch your breath. Before long cross the rushing creek again on a sturdy bridge and, soon after, find a pocket view of Colchuck Peak rising in the distance. Beyond, splashing waterfalls and broad vistas beg for a moment’s pause. As you near your destination, cross exposed granite faces and find yourself inexplicably descending dozens of feet of hardearned elevation before beginning the final set of switchbacks up to the lakeshore.
At the 3.9-mile mark, the trail spills out onto granite bluffs high above the north end of Colchuck Lake, showcasing the rocky spires that surround the blue-green water. Across the lake, Aasgard Pass beckons from the saddle between Dragontail Peak and a low shoulder of a long ridgeline known as the Enchantment Peaks. Farther on, Colchuck Glacier clings to the north side of Colchuck Peak, slowly feeding the lake below. Press onward along the lakeshore to find access to the water or a suitable campsite. There is a designated day-use area next to Little Colchuck Lake 0.5 mile down the trail.
It’s no surprise that this eye-popping alpine lake is incredibly popular. If the stunning lake color set against a dramatic backdrop of mountaintops is not enough, the quick “backdoor” approach the Enchantment Lakes Basin provides more than enough enticement to backpackers. The rough and rocky route can be difficult and will challenge some hikers. At the same time, this trail makes for a great backpacking destination or training hike.
The Colchuck Lake Trail continues around the lake to snake up Aasgard Pass (Colchuck Pass on some maps) and into the realm of the gods: the Upper Enchantment Lakes Basin (Hike 82). Explore an otherworldly landscape of lakes and tarns or take a trek up to the top of Little Annapurna. Use caution on this approach, as the route is steep and mostly built on top of boulders and scree, making it treacherous under certain conditions. Avoid an ascent in the snow unless you have the equipment and training to undertake it.
In Chinook Jargon, Colchuck means “very cold water” or “ice water,” an apt name for this glacierfed lake, which is an irrigation reservoir for nearby farmers and residents. In 1926, a severe drought highlighted the need to supply water to Leavenworth and the surrounding areas during dry spells. Within a few years, the Icicle and Peshastin Irrigation District came together with a plan to dam alpine lakes to act as reservoirs. Four lakes were chosen to supplement seasonal water flows: Colchuck, Eightmile, Klonaqua, and Square Lakes (in addition to Nada and the Snow Lakes, which were already in use as reservoirs). By 1930 a dam was constructed at Colchuck Lake, and today’s trail likely follows a route blazed for the construction of that dam.
In 2005 the dam began to fail, causing the lake level to fall dramatically. Repairs the following year returned the lake to its familiar reservoir levels. Today, Colchuck Lake is part of an irrigation system that includes 60 miles of canals supplying water to over 8000 acres of farmland and orchards.
DISTANCE: 9.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1600 feet
HIGH POINT: 5100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 5 to 7 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Stuart Zone Enchantments permit for overnight stay
MAPS: USGS Cashmere Mountain, USGS Enchantment Lakes, USGS Mount Stuart; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.52774°N, 120.8208°W
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 8.4 miles to Eightmile Road (FR 7601). Turn left and follow gravel FR 7601 over Icicle Creek for about 4 miles to the road end and parking area for Colchuck Lake and Lake Stuart Trailhead, at the far end of the lot. Privy available.
On the trail to Lake Stuart, hiking through meadows with views of Argonaut Peak, Sherpa Peak, and Mount Stuart
Set at the feet of mighty Mount Stuart and fed by the glaciers clinging to the crags above, Lake Stuart invites hikers and backpackers to enjoy its wooded shores in a spectacular setting. While the lake draws fewer hikers than nearby Colchuck Lake, thousands visit these wild sparkling waters each summer. Lake Stuart’s popularity is unsurprising, given the relative ease with which hikers can reach this rugged alpine lake. While some prefer a more lonesome destination, there is more than enough lake and rocky terrain for everyone. To minimize your company along the trail, visit in late fall—you risk encountering snow, but if your timing is right, you’ll catch the Enchantments’ famous golden larches.
From the trailhead, follow the Stuart Lake Trail #1599 into a mixed forest alongside the rushing waters of Mountaineer Creek, a sound that keeps you company for most of your hike. At 0.3 mile enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and begin your climb. Breaks in the pines allow glimpses of the rocky spires above as you navigate talus fields and sets of rocky switchbacks before crossing a sturdy log bridge spanning Mountaineer Creek at 1.5 miles.
After climbing 2.2 miles reach the wellmarked junction with the Colchuck Lake Trail #1599.1 (sometimes referred to as #1599A); continue straight ahead toward Lake Stuart. With most of the elevation out of the way, the remaining 2.0 miles to the lake disappear beneath your boots with only a few ups and downs as you venture deeper into the creek valley.
As you near the lake, the trail skirts a large meadow, revealing the heights of Mount Stuart and Jack Ridge before returning to the trees. You finally reach the lakeside at 4.2 miles. The trail continues another 0.3 mile along the shore to the far end of the lake, passing a number of excellent campsites along the way. Find a spot to settle in and take in this picturesque setting.
Beyond Lake Stuart, a boot path continues up to Horseshoe Lake. The route is marked by blazes carved into the trees, but blowdowns and brush can make for rough going. Climb for 0.75 mile to a large, swampy meadow and work your way toward the end of the valley, keeping the meadow on your left until you reach a tree with a horseshoe nailed to it. This is your sign to head straight uphill. Use caution as you work your way up the steep, treacherous, rocky mountainside reach to Horseshoe Lake.
George B. McClellan named Mount Stuart in 1853 after his longtime friend Jimmie Stuart, a soldier who was killed a few years earlier in a skirmish with American Indians. Lake Stuart inherited its name from the mountain it sits below. Horseshoe Lake was named for its vaguely horseshoe shape.
DISTANCE: 7.8 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 feet
HIGH POINT: 4700 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 4 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate to heavy foot traffic
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Eightmile/Caroline Zone Enchantments permit for overnight stay
MAPS: USGS Cashmere Mountain; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5361°N, 120.8138°W
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 8.4 miles to Eightmile Road (FR 7601). Turn left and follow the gravel road over Icicle Creek for about 2.9 miles to the Eightmile Lake Trailhead. Privy available.
A perennial favorite, the Eightmile Lake Trail offers relatively easy access to a few alpine lakes tucked into a section of the Enchantments’ signature rugged terrain. In recent years fires have ravaged the forests around the trail, leaving enormous swaths of charred lonely sentinels. On the plus side, the fires cleared underbrush and removed the forest canopy, making way for a wonderland of wildflowers in the spring and early summer. While a popular day hike, Eightmile Lake is also a decent backpacking destination, though one that requires an Enchantments permit for overnight stays during the permit season.
The hike begins along the Eightmile Lake Trail #1552 as it follows Eightmile Creek, quickly serving up impressive views of towering Dragontail Peak and Colchuck Peak. The dusty path crosses multiple streams as you push deeper into the creek valley. After about 0.4 mile of mild elevation gain, note the abandoned logging roadbed that parallels the trail and keep left, continuing to push ahead to a wooden bridge spanning Pioneer Creek at 0.8 mile.
Little Eightmile Lake and the fire-damaged valley wall
Soon after, at the 1.1-mile mark, enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness while passing what remains of the ponderosa pines that once lined the trail. Within the wilderness, the trail begins to climb in earnest, switchbacking in places and crossing talus fields.
At 2.5 miles reach Little Eightmile Lake, which, as its name suggests, is tiny—depending on the time of year, it can appear to be little more than a deep marsh. Find the junction with the Eightmile–Trout Creek Trail #1554 here, which leads up to Lake Caroline (Hike 86), Windy Pass, and Trout Lake. Stay to the left, pushing onward to Eightmile Lake.
In another 0.5 mile reach Eightmile Lake, tucked quietly in a bowl at the base of Eightmile Mountain, which rises grandly at the far end of the lake. Other sharp ridges surround the pristine waters, adding further mystique to this wild and stunning setting. The trail continues to the far end of the lake, 3.9 miles from the trailhead, giving you plenty of space to find a quiet spot along the shore to enjoy the lake or set up camp if you’re planning a longer stay.
Gorgeous and approachable for hikers of all skill levels, Eightmile Lake is the primary access trail for exploring this section of the Enchantments. Despite the smell of ash and smoke that will linger for years to come, this trail still manages to showcase the beauty of this area.
A scramble route to the summit of Eightmile Mountain is fairly easy to follow from the lake. The Eightmile–Trout Creek Trail #1554 provides a quick (but very steep) side trip up to Lake Caroline (Hike 86).
Eightmile Creek got its name from the location where it flows into Icicle Creek: river mile eight. The lakes were then named for the creek that drains them.
Eightmile Lake is one of six alpine lakes that act as reservoirs for the Icicle and Peshastin Irrigation District. Easily seen from the trail at the lake’s outlet, the Eightmile Lake Dam was built in 1929, but over the years ice and snow have significantly damaged the structure. While it’s still partially functional, the damage has limited the irrigation district’s ability to regulate the lake. Plans are in the works to upgrade and restore the system and dam. Opponents, however, object to further human intrustions into this protected wilderness, making the project’s future uncertain.
Anyone hiking the Eightmile Creek Valley cannot help but notice that the area has seen more than its fair share of fires in the last few decades. Fires raged through the valley in 1994, and in 2010 the Eightmile Lake Fire made a lasting impression. But it was the 2012 Cashmere Mountain Fire that did most of the damage seen along the trail today.
DISTANCE: 9.6 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2500 feet in; 100 feet out
HIGH POINT: 6300 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 5 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
MAPS: USGS Cashmere Mountain; Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
PERMITS: Northwest Forest Pass; Eightmile/Caroline Zone Enchantments permit for overnight stay
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.5361°N, 120.8138°W
NOTES: Permit required to overnight in Enchantments area between May 15 and Oct. 31; reservation system changes often; for details visit www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue 8.4 miles to Eightmile Road (FR 7601). Turn left and follow the gravel road over Icicle Creek for about 2.9 miles to the Eightmile Lake Trailhead. Privy available.
With so much attention focused on the Enchantment Lakes Basin, hikers often overlook nearby trips. And when a trail is dry, dusty, and difficult like this one to Lake Caroline, that is doubly the case. Yet the rough, steep, and challenging hike up to this demure alpine lake offers more than sparkling waters and a tranquil setting: the views are absolutely spectacular.
Start from the trailhead, following the Eightmile Lake Trail #1552 as it traces a path alongside Eightmile Creek. Note the rugged crags of Dragontail Peak and Colchuck Peak as you progress—you’ll be getting better views of them soon. Push deeper into the creek valley, crossing the occasional stream and passing more than a few burnt trees along the way. Keep left when you encounter an abandoned logging road at the 0.4-mile mark, and cross the log bridge spanning Pioneer Creek soon after at 0.8 mile. Beyond lies the Alpine Lakes Wilderness boundary at 1.1 miles.
From here, start a steeper climb. Navigate your way up a few mild switchbacks and through a couple of talus fields to reach Little Eightmile Lake at 2.5 miles. Quite small even in the spring, this lake can seem more like a marsh in the high summer. Here too is the signed junction for the Eightmile–Trout Creek Trail #1554. Eightmile Lake and good campsites are just another 0.5 mile farther along the main trail, but to reach Lake Caroline, the work has only just begun.
The trail up to Lake Caroline weaves through wildfire-charred forest.
Veer right at the junction to begin a steep ascent on the brushy and exposed trail. Before fires denuded the mountainside, this early stretch threaded through the trees and enjoyed some shelter from the summer sun. Today hikers will find little respite from the heat as they climb through the charred remains of the forest. The rocky trail switchbacks relentlessly up from the valley, offering ever-increasing views of Little Eightmile Lake, Eightmile Lake, and Dragontail Peak, eventually entering meadows and parklands at heights that put large swaths of the Enchantment Peaks on prominent display.
After more than 2.0 miles of climbing, the trail levels out as you approach Lake Caroline, ultimately cresting the ridge that rims the wooded bowl the lake sits in. Eightmile Mountain rises some distance to the west, while Cashmere Mountain looms just to the north; behind you to the south find the heights of Mount Stuart rising above the surrounding crags, reaching toward the heavens. Continue down to reach the lakeshore, 4.8 miles from the trailhead. Find a quiet spot to enjoy a solitude that is sometimes difficult to come by in the Enchantments. There are sites around Caroline, but if you’re camping, you may want to look for better sites by continuing onward and upward to the meadows around Little Caroline Lake 0.5 mile farther down the trail.
Rough, steep and challenging, the approach to Lake Caroline sees far fewer boot soles than a typical trail in the Enchantments. Although fewer visitors means you’re likely to have Lake Caroline largely to yourself, the lack of traffic also means you can expect some sections of the underused trail to be a little overgrown. For those seeking to capture the essence of the Enchantments in all its rugged glory without having to share the experience with dozens of other hikers, there are few better options than the trek up to this sweet and unassuming alpine lake.
If you’ve already made the hard trek up to Lake Caroline, the short journey up to Little Caroline Lake takes little effort and is well worth the tour through grassy alpine meadows. Beyond, the trail continues another 2.0 miles up through fields of wildflowers and treedotted meadows to windswept Windy Pass, offering panoramic views of the surrounding sea of mountaintops. For through-hikers, the trail continues down to Trout Creek Trail #1555 and eventually leads out to the Jack Trout Trailhead.
The fire damage along the Eightmile Lake Trail and the approach to Lake Caroline is the result of recent fires. In 1994 fires scarred much of the area below the lake. And while the 2010 Eightmile Lake Fire added to the destruction, the massive 2012 Cashmere Mountain Fire did the lion’s share of the damage found along the trail today.
DISTANCE: 11.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 4500 feet in; 400 feet out
HIGH POINT: 6750 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 8 to 9 hours
BEST SEASON: Summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Chiwaukum Mountains, USGS Jack Ridge; Green Trails Chiwaukum Mts. No. 177
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6087°N, 120.8821°W
NOTE: Camping is prohibited within 200 feet of Lake Edna.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 14.9 miles, turn right into the parking area for the Chatter Creek Trailhead just before reaching the Chatter Creek guard station.
Explore boulder-strewn creek basins, stands of alpine forest, and lonely lakesides on this sometimes-challenging trek up to Lake Edna. This is the high country—more rock slabs and alpine tundra than meadows and forest. Remote and pristine, the clear waters of Lake Edna invite quiet contemplation. This serene setting is within reach, but it is not an easy reach.
From the Chatter Creek Trailhead, follow the Chatter Creek Trail #1580 through the pines, switchbacking steadily upward through the trees and talus. The trail here is fairly new, cut less than twenty years ago, making for an easy hike up the mountainside. Reach Chatter Creek after about 1.0 mile, crossing it on a solid bridge and connecting with the tread of older trail on the other side. You will immediately notice the difference. Gone is the wide and hardpacked trail, replaced instead by a narrow, crumbling rut angling steeply up into the creek valley.
Soon after the bridge, enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 1.2 miles, where the hard climbing begins. Unless the trail has been recently brushed out, expect undergrowth to increasingly crowd the trail as you press upward. The trail is easy to follow, if hard to see in sections.
The trees begin to thin, and talus fields and brushy slopes move in as you pass a good campsite at 1.9 miles, just before crossing Chatter Creek again. The trail continues its steep climb, becoming rockier until you round a shoulder of Grindstone Mountain and enter a broad basin. The grade slackens here, allowing you to catch your breath and marvel at the headwaters of Chatter Creek.
Winter is coming to Lake Edna and Ladies Pass on a late summer day.
Reach an excellent campsite at 2.5 miles, with views of the valley below and the tips of Cashmere Mountain and Eightmile Mountain peeking out over the ridges across the valley. Press deeper into the basin under the watchful gaze of granite-faced Grindstone Mountain. Chatter Creek tumbles and bumbles nearby as you make your way toward the basin’s headwall. Your destination is a low, nearly barren saddle on the ridgeline, easily spotted on your approach by the ribbon of trail cut through the boulders and scree below it.
Slowly but surely, climb the long, rocky switchbacks up the slopes of Icicle Ridge to the saddle and some excellent views. Some call it a day here at 4.2 miles from the trailhead, and it is no wonder—peaks and valley fan out in all directions from this vantage point. Find Bootjack Mountain (Hike 90), Jack Ridge, and the Trout Creek Valley (Hike 88) to the south, along with much more of Cashmere Mountain and Eightmile Mountain, as well as Mount Stuart in the distance. To the north are Index Creek Valley, Snowgrass Mountain, and Cape Horn.
From the saddle, the trail drops sharply into the rubble-filled bowl below, wasting little time shuttling you down among the thin larches. Work your way across the valley bottom through patches of greenery clinging to the rocks near snowmelt-driven streams. Skip across a stream or two before climbing once again. Reach a bench dotted with trees and a patch of meadow. Keep to the most well-worn trail here, avoiding thinner boot paths that will lead you astray. Climb along a rushing creek to the junction with the Icicle Ridge Trail #1570 at the 5.3-mile mark, and veer left onto it.
The trail heads straight up 0.3 mile to little Lake Edna. In high summer, when the snow briefly retreats for a few weeks, Lake Edna’s heather-lined shores dazzle with pinpoints of pink and purple. Above, the jagged cleft top of Cape Horn draws the eye, its snow-patched slopes scrubbed of greenery. In the fall, the larches scattered above the shores light up the rock-covered, glacier-carved lake basin. After 5.6 miles of tough trail, find a comfortable rock, break out your lunch, and enjoy the rugged landscape before exploring the lakeshore.
From Lake Edna, the Icicle Ridge Trail continues up over Ladies Pass and follows the ridge above creek drainages and cirques filled with alpine lakes. Not far over the pass, the trail reaches a junction with the Chiwaukum Creek Trail #1571, which leads down to Lake Brigham and Lake Flora. Beyond, the Icicle Ridge Trail passes above Upper Florence Lake, then Lake Mary and Lake Margaret, before ending at Frosty Pass. From Frosty Pass, backpackers can drop down into the Wildhorse Creek Valley via the Wildhorse Creek Trail #1592 (Hike 76) or make a loop by following the Frosty–Wildhorse Trail #1592 back down to Icicle Creek (Hike 98).
In 1909, Forest Supervisor Albert H. Sylvester led a tour through the Icicle Creek watershed with one of his rangers, Burne Canby. On that tour, they camped at Frosty Pass, naming it for the early frost that they awoke to in the morning. As they continued their tour, they stumbled upon lake after lake in rapid succession—first Margaret, then Mary, Florence, and Alice, followed by Edna, Ida, and finally Augusta. They even spied Lake Victoria across the creek valley, hiding in a deep cirque on the slopes of Cashmere Mountain. Each was named in honor of a woman in their lives—Edna was a girlfriend of Burne Canby—and it began a naming convention that continued for years to come.
As Sylvester put it in a speech he made years later in 1943, “It marked the beginning of a practice we followed on the forest for years. There are approximately 150 lakes and ponds in the forest, some of the smaller ones not yet named. The numbers of ladies’ lakes grew until practically all rangers’ and other Forest Service men’s wives, sisters, sweethearts, mothers, and daughters had lakes named for them.”
The pass above Edna was named Ladies Pass for all the lakes bearing women’s names. After all these “Ladies Lakes” became better known, a lake that Sylvester had overlooked on his 1909 tour was named Lake Brigham by Jack Gonser, a game commissioner and outdoor enthusiast. This lake, surrounded by lakes named for women, was named for the Mormon leader Brigham Young, in reference to the practice of polygamy associated with the early Mormon church. As a result, this group of lakes is sometimes referred to as the “Mormon Ladies Lakes.”
Other features in the area named by Sylvester include Cape Horn, which refers to the sharpness of the peak, as well as Grindstone Creek, named for a small grindstone that Sylvester and Ranger John Bender lost in the creek. The name was later given to the mountain the creek runs down. Chatter Creek he named for the “chattering” sound of the water. This last was not his most inventive name, but after days of christening lakes, mountains, and streams, his creativity may have understandably been running a little low.
DISTANCE: 12.4 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2000 feet
HIGH POINT: 4800 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: 7 to 8 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to late fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Jack Ridge; Green Trails Chiwaukum Mts. No. 177
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6058°N, 120.9168°W
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 16.7 miles reach Rock Island Campground and turn left across the bridge spanning Icicle Creek. In 0.1 mile turn left onto spur road 615 (FR 7600-615). Continue a little over 0.1 mile to the Jack Trout Trailhead on the right. Privy available.
Hike out to a wooded lake thick with moss and lined with grass—no alpine tundra or barren moonscapes here. Instead, find a welcoming lakeshore with plenty of room to explore the lake basin, tie up a hammock in the trees, or throw a line in the water.
From the Jack Trout Trailhead, head into the trees along the Jack Creek Trail #1558. Pass the Jack-Pine Tie Trail #1597 (signed “Jackpine Trail”) on your right, a wide equestrian highway leading out to the Blackpine Horse Camp. The well-maintained Jack Creek Trail wanders under needles of pine and larch, soon crossing Jack Creek on a sturdy steel bridge. Beyond, enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.6 mile.
Soon climb through the trees, veering away from the creek and reaching a junction with the Trout Creek Trail #1555 at 1.4 miles. Ahead that trail follows Jack Creek deep into the wild, reaching Cradle Lake (Hike 89) and beyond, a journey for another day. Instead, head left and up, continuing to climb the valley wall.
After 2.0 miles of switchbacks up the ridge, round the ridge at a rocky vista offering sweeping views of the Icicle Creek Valley before dropping onto the back side of Jack Ridge above Trout Creek. From here the trail skirts the wilderness boundary and soon exits the shelter of spruce and pine for a broad swath of clear-cut, logged in the 1980s by the Pack River Lumber Company. Skim along the top of the brutal mile-long cut, traversing a field of silvered stumps and snags, the trail increasingly obscured by new growth. Along the way take advantage of the missing canopy to admire the rugged ridges and cliffs of Cashmere Mountain rising across the valley.
Cut through a stand of trees spared the chain saw before returning to another long stretch of recovering mountainside. Reach the wild forest once again, angling down toward the valley bottom and crossing a few bubbling streams before reaching the 5.6-mile mark and the junction with the Eightmile–Trout Creek Trail #1554, which leads up to Windy Pass and Lake Caroline (Hike 86). Push past the junction along the main trail; the lake is a little over 0.5 mile ahead.
Pass the junction with the Jack Ridge Trail #1557 just before cutting through marshlands to reach Trout Lake at the 6.2-mile mark, with waters green from algae and aquatic plants. Grass spills over the lakeshore and out into the lake, blurring the shoreline. In the distance Eightmile Mountain rises above the valley, its sharp peaks flecked with snow. Find campsites tucked into the shore and ample tranquility just about everywhere.
Bushwhackers and adventurers can continue past the lake deeper into the basin, picking their way toward the base of Eightmile Mountain. Your reward is ever-increasing views of Eightmile’s rugged profile and a small tarn. Those looking for a loop, follow the unmaintained Jack Ridge Trail, which rockets straight up over Jack Ridge and drops down the other side to Jack Creek and the Jack Creek Trail. Follow it back to the Trout Creek Trail junction to close the loop. Backpackers have the option of tackling the steep Eightmile–Trout Creek Trail up to Windy Pass to eventually reach Lake Caroline (Hike 86).
Eightmile Mountain from the marshy shores of Trout Lake
Cashmere Mountain, which features prominently on this hike, was named by Judge James Harvey Chase, an early settler and booster in the nearby town of Mission. In 1904 the town decided to change its name, and Chase suggested Cashmere, inspired by the poem “Lalla Rookh” by Sir Thomas Moore, which highlights the beauty of the mountains of Kashmir in India.
Trout Creek and Trout Lake were named for the fish found in their waters.
DISTANCE: 17.8 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 3400 feet in; 100 feet out
HIGH POINT: 6200 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Summer to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot and equestrian traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Jack Ridge, USGS Chiwaukum Mountains, USGS The Cradle; Green Trails Chiwaukum Mts. No. 177, Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6058°N, 120.9168°W
NOTES: Hike requires a ford of Jack Creek and Meadow Creek; use caution and do not attempt during spring melt or when water levels are high. Camping is prohibited within 200 feet of Cradle Lake.
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 16.7 miles reach Rock Island Campground and turn left across the bridge spanning Icicle Creek. In 0.1 mile turn left onto spur road 615 (FR 7600-615). Continue a little over 0.1 mile to the Jack Trout Trailhead on the right. Privy available.
Part forested river walk and part steep switchbacking ascent, this approach to Cradle Lake stores up all the hard climbing for one 2.6-mile burst up the steep valley wall to a wide lake bowl. The wild, isolated lake does not see too many visitors, and when night falls the open slopes are a front-row seat to a vast star show above.
The hike begins from the Jack Trout Trailhead, following the Jack Creek Trail #1558 as it crosses the Jack-Pine Tie Trail #1597 (signed “Jackpine Trail”) that leads out to the Blackpine Horse Camp. Head into the forest of pine, fir, and larch on well-maintained trail. Soon cross Jack Creek on a hefty wooden bridge and enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.6 mile.
From here the trail climbs briefly, temporarily leaving the creek and soon passing the junction with the Trout Creek Trail #1555 (Hike 88) at 1.4 miles. Beyond the junction, the trail veers back down toward the creek. Wind your way beneath the trees, Jack Creek never too far from your side. To the tune of rushing snowmelt and tumbling riverstone, these first few miles breeze by, punctuated by the occasional climb over a bluff or outcropping before dropping back toward the creek again.
Pass the unmaintained Jack Ridge Trail #1557 at 3.4 miles. As you press deeper along huckleberry-lined trail, blowdowns become increasingly common, as do stream crossings. Hop across stones to keep your feet dry as you continue down this lonely stretch of trail, passing a number of nice creekside camps along the way.
At 5.0 miles reach the junction with the Meadow Creek Trail #1559, where the Jack Creek Trail continues straight up the valley. Turn right onto the Meadow Creek Trail, which drops down to Jack Creek. Depending on the water levels, the time of year, and a little bit of luck, there may be stones or logs to guide you across the water. If not, ford the creek and continue onward, but don’t change footwear just yet, as you need to ford Meadow Creek a few thousand feet down the trail. As always, do not attempt to ford these creeks during the spring melt or when water levels are high. When in doubt, turn around and adventure another day.
Once you’re across Meadow Creek, work your way through the trees alongside the creek. At 6.3 miles reach the junction with the Snowall–Cradle Lake Trail #1560 and a big horse-pounded campsite. If you’re on a twonight excursion, consider bedding down here and saving the next leg of the journey for the morning, as it’s a heart-pounding uphill battle from here to the lakeshore. It is a labor best tackled in the dew of morning rather than the heat of the day.
When you’re ready begin your climb, take the Snowall–Cradle Lake Trail up, switchbacking tightly and seemingly endlessly up the mountainside, alternating between thin forest, the occasional burnt snag, and sections of exposed rock. Eventually find blessed relief from the switchbacks when you attain a ridge at 7.7 miles.
Continue climbing along the back of this ridge toward the lake. Views begin to open here, with the top of Highchair Mountain coming into view, along with nearby Harding Mountain and long views down the Jack Creek Valley and Blackjack Ridge. At 8.4 miles pass the junction with an abandoned section of trail that leads out along Blackjack Ridge to Bootjack Mountain (Hike 90).
From here the trail drops off the ridge and traverses toward Cradle Lake, with some ups and downs along the way, reaching the lake outlet at 8.9 miles from the trailhead. Step out toward the lakeshore’s lovely alpine scene: iron-rich orange boulders lie at the bottom of a pointed ridge. Grassy meadows burst with wildflowers during the summer, and a backdrop of rugged peaks including Harding Mountain rounds out the horizon. Nestled between the long arms of the Cradle and Highchair Mountain, the shallow lake sparkles in the sun. Boot paths lead around the lake, offering a multitude of vantage points to enjoy this remote landscape. If you’re spending the night, note that camping is prohibited within 200 feet of the lake, and campsites are hard to come by.
The Snowall–Cradle Lake Trail continues around Cradle Lake and up the ridge to a saddle. Any stay at Cradle Lake all but requires a trip up here for close views of Harding Mountain and the Cradle, as well as the Snowall Creek Valley. Those on longer excursions can continue on the trail over the saddle and down along Snowall Creek, following it to the Icicle Creek Trail (Hike 91) and FR 76. Alternatively, adventurers can follow the unmaintained trail between Cradle Lake and Bootjack Mountain (Hike 90), which also leads back to FR 76.
Harding Mountain from the trail below Cradle Lake
The Cradle was named for the distinct shape of its two-pointed summit. A wide, smooth scoop separates the two points, looking a little like a cradle. That name set the theme for the area: Highchair Mountain and Nursery Mountain are both part of a circle of ridges surrounded by Icicle Creek to the north, French Creek to the west, Meadow Creek to the south, and Jack Creek to the east.
DISTANCE: 7.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 3900 feet
HIGH POINT: 6789 feet
DIFFICULTY: Hard
HIKING TIME: 6 to 7 hours
BEST SEASON: Summer to early fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Very light foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Jack Ridge; Green Trails Chiwaukum Mts. No. 177
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6100°N, 120.9450°W
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 16.7 miles reach Rock Island Campground. Turn left, crossing a bridge over Icicle Creek, and continue another 1.4 miles to a large pullout on the right for the Blackpine Trailhead, 18.1 miles from Highway 2.
Blackjack Ridge rises between Black Pine Creek and Jack Creek, a rugged jut of rock that culminates in Bootjack Mountain. The views from the summit are spectacular, but the hike to the top is grueling. It’s dry, dusty, and relentlessly steep, making it among the least hiked trails in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
From Blackpine Trailhead, cross FR 76 and enter the trees, following an access trail that soon reaches the Jack-Pine Tie Trail #1597 (signed “Jackpine Trail”), a wide and dusty horse highway that connects the Jack Trout Trailhead with the Blackpine Horse Camp. The camp is to the right. Veer left and continue for 0.1 mile to the junction with the Blackjack Ridge Trail #1565. Here the Jack-Pine Tie Trail continues out along Icicle Creek. Turn right onto the Blackjack Ridge Trail #1565.
Work through some encroaching underbrush that soon gives way to a solid, hardpacked trail lined with salal and fern as your ascent begins in earnest. And make no mistake, “ascent” is nearly an understatement, as you slog your way up through dense forest, zigzagging up switchback after switchback after switchback, crossing into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.3 mile.
No views break up this workout, though it is steep enough that most hikers are more focused on putting one boot in front of the other. Pause often as the trail rockets 3000 feet up the mountainside in a little more than 2.0 miles. Eventually the trees thin and the brush thickens, soon yielding to a grassy meadowland and silver snags, a legacy of a long-ago burn. Here are the first hints of the panorama to come. In the spring and summer, wildflowers thrive here, painting the mountainside with pinks, yellows, and purples. Across the Jack Creek Valley, spy Cashmere Mountain and Jack Ridge, the closest prominences in an expanding sea of trees and snowy mountaintops. It’s tempting to pull up a log and get lost in the vista, and it’s a fine place to pause, but bigger views lie ahead.
Continue through the parklands, traversing the shoulders of the mountainside to attain the ridge at 2.8 miles. Pause here and avoid the temptation to continue following the trail, which descends through meadows and boulder fields toward the Jack Creek Valley. Instead, head left and downridge on a short path leading to a large, boot-pounded viewpoint on a rocky knob. The views are grand at this picnic point, with Grindstone Mountain to the north and the choppy prominences of Jack Ridge just across the valley, as well as Cashmere Mountain and Eightmile Mountain rising behind. This is the end of the trail for many hikers, but still better views await those who don’t mind a little scrambling.
Return to the main trail and head straight up the ridgeline—a boot path is hard to find here, but you will run into it very soon. Views continue to broaden as you follow the knife’s edge of the ridge 0.7 mile, crossing increasingly large sections of talus along the way. The boot path is well-worn and fairly easily followed to the summit block, where you can pick your way up the last few hundred feet through the boulders to the windswept summit of Bootjack Mountain. The 360-degree views are vast.
Start taking peak attendance: Mount Rainier, Glacier Peak, Mount Baker, Mount Ingalls, Mount Stuart, and the rest of the Enchantment Peaks are all present. Nearer afield find Snowgrass Mountain, Grindstone Mountain, Highchair Mountain, and Harding Mountain. Black Pine Creek drainage is immediately below to the northwest, with Sixtysix Hundred Ridge buttressing the opposite side of the valley. To the southeast are Jack Creek and Jack Ridge. Break out the map and see how many more you can pick out, then pull up a rock, tuck into lunch, and enjoy the view.
Icicle Ridge fills the horizon from the high meadows of Bootjack Mountain.
The Blackjack Ridge Trail continues beyond the Bootjack summit boot path junction, dropping to a shelf below Bootjack and the rocky ridge and working through old burn, meadows, marshes, and forest to the Snowall–Cradle Lake Trail #1560, approximately 8.0 miles from the trailhead. This section of trail is all but abandoned, however, with the trail becoming indistinct at times.
Blackjack Ridge was named for its location between Black Pine Creek and Jack Creek.
DISTANCE: 10.0 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 500 feet
HIGH POINT: 3200 feet
DIFFICULTY: Easy
HIKING TIME: 5 to 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Late spring to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Moderate foot traffic; light equestrian traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS Jack Ridge, USGS Chiwaukum Mountains, USGS Stevens Pass; Green Trails Chiwaukum Mts. No. 177, Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6123°N, 120.9497°W
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 16.7 miles reach Rock Island Campground. Turn left, crossing a bridge over Icicle Creek, and continue another 1.8 miles to the Icicle Creek Trailhead, 18.5 miles from Highway 2. Privy available.
As creekside walks go, this meander along the banks of Icicle Creek is hard to beat. The nearly flat trail is cooled by the creek’s rushing waters and the sheltering pines, while openings in the canopy allow for pleasant views of forested valley walls and boulder-filled avalanche chutes. While this tour gives hikers a good sense of the Icicle Creek Valley, it covers less than a quarter of its length, which stretches out to Josephine Lake (Hike 73) and the Pacific Crest Trail, passing a half dozen trail junctions along the way.
From the trailhead, follow the Icicle Creek Trail #1551 into the old growth, soon coming within earshot of the tumbling creek and entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.3 mile. Wide, flat, and dusty, the trail traverses the valley above the creek, skipping across a number of melt-driven streams as it winds its way through the trees. Breeze along hardpacked tread, quickly putting trail behind you and reaching French Creek Camp at 1.5 miles, complete with a backcountry toilet. This popular and well-established camp works as a stopping point for first-time backpackers or those on a longer journey.
Continue past the camp to a footbridge spanning French Creek, taking a moment to peer up at the rugged heights of Grindstone Mountain across the valley. Just beyond the bridge, reach the junction with the French Creek Trail #1595 at 1.7 miles. The French Creek Valley tempts, beckoning you toward the Snowall drainage (Hike 98) and Klonaqua Lakes (Hike 92). Resist the temptation and continue following Icicle Creek as it rounds the end of French Ridge.
At the 2.1-mile mark, find the junction with the French Ridge Trail #1564 leading up to a former lookout site, far-reaching views, and a brushy boot path out to Turquoise Lake. Stay on the main trail and stick to the valley bottom, eventually rounding the ridge into a long view of the valley with the Bulls Tooth rising in the distance.
Icicle Creek rushes down its densely forested banks.
Wander deeper into the trees as Icicle Creek flows through broad meadows and over logjams. Pass pleasant camps and placid swimming holes, enjoying the valley views along the way. After a little over 2.9 miles that melt nearly effortlessly beneath your boots, reach a sturdy bridge crossing over Icicle Creek, and just beyond reach the junction with the Frosty–Wildhorse Trail #1592, a good turnaround point for day hikers. Find a cool place to picnic and soak your feet in the creek, or continue up the Icicle Creek Trail a few dozen feet to marshy meadows offering views of French Ridge and the hanging valley carved into it that holds Lake Cuitin.
The Icicle Creek Trail is one of the main arterials through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. From this well-connected trail, backpackers can adventure up to Frosty Pass and Ladies Lakes country via the Frosty–Wildhorse Trail (Hike 98), visit Lake Leland along the Lake Leland Trail #1566, climb up to Chain Lakes (Hike 74), or trek out to the end of the trail at Josephine Lake (Hike 73).
The Icicle Creek Valley was a favorite stomping ground of Forest Supervisor and prolific place-namer Albert H. Sylvester. He named Icicle Creek, using a derivation of the Wenatchee Indian word na’sik-elt meaning “narrow-bottom canyon or gorge.” The way the word is pronounced, if the first and last letters are dropped, a’sik-el sounds a lot like “icicle.” Sylvester also gave Lake Cuitin and Cuitin Creek their names. Cuitan or ku-i-tan is Chinook Jargon for “horse,” a reference to the small amount of horse grazing available at the mouth of the creek.
French Creek begins its long journey to Icicle Creek from Sprite Lake near Paddy-Go-Easy Pass (Hike 52). The creek and the ridge were named for a prospector and homesteader who held claims along the waters. French Ridge was also home to a fire lookout, an L-5 cabin built in 1934 that was used until it was removed in 1970. The lookout site and its big views can be reached via the French Ridge Trail (Hike 92).
DISTANCE: 18.2 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 2300 feet
HIGH POINT: 5100 feet
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
HIKING TIME: Overnight
BEST SEASON: Summer to fall
TRAIL TRAFFIC: Light foot traffic
PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass
MAPS: USGS The Cradle, USGS Chiwaukum Mountains; Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
TRAILHEAD GPS: 47.6123°N, 120.9497°W
GETTING THERE: Take Highway 2 to Icicle Creek Road (Forest Road 76) just west of Leavenworth. Turn onto Icicle Creek Road and continue as the pavement turns to gravel at 12.5 miles, then keep right at the Y just beyond. At 16.7 miles reach Rock Island Campground. Turn left, crossing a bridge over Icicle Creek, and continue another 1.8 miles to the Icicle Creek Trailhead, 18.5 miles from Highway 2. Privy available.
Pristine, difficult to reach, and often overlooked, the Klonaqua Lakes make for an excellent overnight destination or a very challenging day hike. Travel through old-growth forest alongside three different creeks as you make your way up to a set of three alpine lakes nestled beneath Granite Mountain. Yes, three. While most maps of the area leave the impression that there are only two Klonaqua Lakes, there is a third tucked high up on Granite’s slopes, often left unlabeled and visited by only the most ardent of lake baggers.
From the Icicle Creek Trailhead, follow the Icicle Creek Trail #1551 as it enters a mature forest filled with the rushing sounds of nearby Icicle Creek. Cross into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at 0.3 mile. The trail bed is flat and well-traveled, allowing you to glide alongside the creek for 1.5 miles to French Creek Camp. Soon cross French Creek, and just beyond arrive at the French Creek Trail #1595 junction at 1.7 miles.
Veer left onto the French Creek Trail and trade smooth trail for a steady climb through the trees, weaving beneath the canopy and never straying far from the sounds of the water. After 0.5 mile, the grade tapers somewhat under the shadow of French Ridge. Continue working your way up the French Creek Valley, enjoying brief glimpses of the surrounding landscape through breaks in the canopy and the cheerful companionship of the creek, splashing merrily as you climb. The forest is lovely, but the miles soon pile up with only the occasional creek cutting across the trail to break things up.
At 5.2 miles, reach the junction with the French Ridge Trail #1564, which scales the heights of French Ridge in a long series of tight and extremely steep switchbacks before heading back along the ridgeline toward Icicle Creek. Push past this junction for another 1.0 mile to the next junction, with the Snowall–Cradle Lake Trail #1560, a rough trail leading up through the Snowall Creek Valley between Sixtysix Hundred Ridge and the Cradle. Campsites here serve as a good base camp for exploring Snowall Creek, which requires a creek ford. Ignore the temptation to drop your pack here in favor of Snowall Creek, and continue working your way down the French Creek Trail.
Lower Klonaqua Lake and snowcapped Granite Mountain
In another mile you finally reach the junction with the Klonaqua Lakes Trail #1563, 7.2 miles from the trailhead. Turn uphill to leave French Creek behind and begin the steep climb to the lower Klonaqua Lake, navigating the rough, blowdown-prone trail as it steadily switchbacks up the mountainside. Push onward and ever upward for nearly 2.0 miles to reach the lakes.
As you approach the lower lake, note a large cairn next to a steep boot path at the 8.6-mile mark. This is the most defined approach to the upper Klonaqua Lake (see Going Farther). For now, continue on the main trail to reach the sheltered edge of the lower Klonaqua Lake at 9.1 miles. A few campsites are scattered among the trees as the lake comes into view, and there is space for several tents in a large clearing near the water. Pick your way out along the remnants of the Klonaqua Dam to get the best view of craggy Granite Mountain overshadowing the lake and the tree-lined shore.
With no official trail leading to it, the upper Klonaqua Lake sees even fewer visitors than its lower neighbor. From the cairn at 8.6 miles, follow the steep boot path up past Bobs Lake to the shore of the upper lake. Wilder, rockier, and untouched by irrigation projects, this Klonaqua Lake is well worth the extra effort and routefinding. This is the end of the trail for most hikers, but climbers and mountaineers have been known to follow scramble routes up and around Granite Mountain to reach Robin Lakes (Hike 57) on the other side.
Sometime in the 1910s, that famed USGS surveyor turned Forest Supervisor Albert H. Sylvester explored the area around Klonaqua Lakes. He found a system of three lakes and dubbed them Klonaqua, as the number three is klone in Chinook Jargon, and qua means water in the Wenatchee tongue. Sylvester mixed the two languages to come up with the name.
The lakes are part of the historic Icicle Creek Irrigation District, which has had a variety of names over the years and is currently known as the Icicle and Peshastin Irrigation District. In 1927 the district was granted water rights to a number of lakes, including the Klonaqua Lakes, in order to bring water to thirsty orchards and residents. In 1933 the district built a dam at the outlet of Klonaqua Lakes to manage the water levels. The dam operated for decades before falling into disrepair. Today hikers arriving at the end of the main Klonaqua Lakes Trail will find a rusting gate actuator near the lakeshore and the crumbling remains of the dam among the logjam at the lake outlet.
However, this familiar scene may change soon. Proposals are in the works to expand the alpine lake storage capacity of the irrigation district, and one part of that plan includes replacing the Klonaqua Dam. The project is being spearheaded by the Icicle Work Group, a consortium of governmental, tribal, and agricultural stakeholders. Early versions of the plan proposed tapping into the upper lake as well, by boring a tunnel similar to the Snow Lakes system or installing a pump system, though this more ambitious proposal has been dropped. Wilderness advocates are working to delay, reduce, or block the plan, which has yet to be approved. In the coming years, hikers may find a new landscape—or still be greeted by scenery unchanged over the last eighty-five years.