My early culinary training was in French food. In the 1970s, I got excited about the cooking of Richard Olney, Simone Beck, Julia Child, Elizabeth David, and Alma Lach (from Chicago, of all places) and then the Troisgros brothers and on to Mireille Johnston, Paul Bocuse, and Jacques Pépin. Nowadays, when I read through recipes for some of the dishes that captivated me then, I find some of them too fussy, and yet they brought a certain generation of American cooks forward from casserole-blighted lives.
My mom’s theory of raising kids was to keep us busy, so starting when I was thirteen years old, I took all of the classes offered at the brilliant, though now-defunct, La Cuvette cooking school. I ended up doing retail for Lois Lee, who was the owner of the shop where the classes were held and my first and foremost culinary mentor. Verna Meyers, the teacher, kept telling me that I was too small and couldn’t lift the stockpots. But she kept teaching me because I set up the equipment for all of her classes. She set high standards and always told me to work with the best—people and ingredients—one of the most important pieces of advice I have ever been given. I have tried to put those words of wisdom to work in this and every menu in this book.
This country French menu is one of my favorites in the book, and it is good even if you make only one of the dishes. The peppers and eggs make a great supper dish or a Sunday brunch, and the quail are a satisfying twist on grilling when you are not in the mood for a classic American barbecue. And I like to make the charlotte at least once each apple season. I usually pour a little extra crème fraîche on top and eat the charlotte while curled up by the fire reading a book.
WITH ONION AND “UNDEVILED” EGGS
This luscious combination is beautiful brought to the table right in the pot it was braised in, with some toasted bread on the side. It is good served hot or at room temperature. You can instead put a dollop of the pepper mixture on top of hard-boiled egg halves for simple “undeviled” eggs, or you can serve the pepper mixture in the gratin dish topped with soft-boiled or poached eggs sprinkled with Maldon sea salt and grilled crunchy bread, all garnished with minced chives and chive blossoms. You can also transform it into a sauce by simply dicing the bell pepper and onion instead of slicing them.
The pepper and onion mixture may be made up to 1 day in advance, covered, and refrigerated. If you are feeling lazy, you can even skip roasting the peppers and use sliced raw peppers, skin and all. Leftovers (or if you decide to make extra on purpose) are good on grilled fish or chicken and would brighten up a sandwich or a baked potato. | SERVES 6
1½ TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL OR UNSALTED BUTTER
1 RED BELL PEPPER,
ROASTED, PEELED, SEEDED, AND CUT LENGTHWISE INTO WIDE STRIPS
1 ORANGE OR YELLOW BELL PEPPER,
ROASTED, PEELED, SEEDED, AND CUT LENGTHWISE INTO WIDE STRIPS
½ RED ONION, JULIENNED
1 CLOVE
3 TABLESPOONS DRY WHITE WINE
½ CUP CHIFFONADE-CUT FRESH BASIL, MINT, OR SAGE LEAVES
1 LOAF COUNTRY-STYLE FRENCH BREAD SUCH AS PAIN AU LEVAIN OR BAGUETTE, THINLY SLICED
OLIVE OIL, FOR TOASTING THE BREAD
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
SHAVED PARMESAN, AGED DRY JACK, OR RICOTTA SALATA CHEESE (OPTIONAL)
3 HARD-BOILED EGGS, HALVED LENGTHWISE (OPTIONAL)
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a cast-iron or other heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the bell peppers and onion and stir to coat. Cook for a minute or two, to get the vegetables hot throughout, and then add the clove and wine. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting, cover, and let cook for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until the peppers and onion are nicely melted into the oil. It is important to cook this slowly, so use a
heat diffuser if necessary. Stir in half of the basil near the end of the cooking time.
While the vegetables are cooking, brush the bread slices on both sides with olive oil and arrange them on a baking sheet. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, until golden brown and crispy on both sides. Reserve until needed.
When the peppers and onions are melted and luscious, turn up the heat and reduce any pan juices to a syrup. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, top the toasted bread slices with the pepper-onion mixture, scatter a little cheese on top, and then a sprinkling of the remaining basil. Or, nestle the egg halves, cut side up, in the pepper-onion mixture and serve directly from the braising pot, with the toasted bread on the side.
Grilled Quail Salad
WITH ROASTED MUSHROOMS AND HONEY COFFEE VINAIGRETTE
This salad could be made with Cornish game hens, pheasant, or squab in place of the quail, though you will have to adjust the cooking time according to the bird. I like how the white of the button mushrooms contrasts with the shiitake, and I think their different textures play nicely off of each other. Other mushrooms, such as cremini, would work fine, as well. You want to use only the white and pale green parts of the frisée here, but the green trimmings can be saved for soup or for sautéing. If you are not fond of bitter greens, substitute a lettuce of your choice. | SERVES 6
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS BREWED ESPRESSO OR DOUBLE-STRENGTH REGULAR COFFEE
¼ CUP AGED SPANISH SHERRY VINEGAR
2 TEASPOONS HONEY
1 SHALLOT, MINCED
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
¼ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
½ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH ROSEMARY
1 TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH THYME
4 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
4 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PLUS MORE IF NEEDED
6 PARTIALLY BONED OR BONE-IN QUAIL
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
8 OUNCES SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS, STEMMED AND QUARTERED
8 OUNCES BUTTON MUSHROOMS, STEMMED AND QUARTERED
GRATED ZEST AND JUICE OF ½ LEMON
4 TO 6 CUPS FRISÉE OR CURLY ENDIVE OR ESCAROLE CHICORY LEAVES, WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY
2 CUPS WILD OR CULTIVATED ARUGULA OR WATERCRESS, TOUGH STEMS REMOVED
ABOUT 1 TABLESPOON COFFEE BEANS, CRUSHED, OR COCOA NIBS, FOR GARNISH
To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, whisk together the espresso, vinegar, honey, shallot, salt, and pepper until the honey is well incorporated and the salt is fully dissolved. Gradually whisk in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream and continue to whisk until well emulsified. Reserve until needed.
To make the marinade, mix together half each of the rosemary, thyme, garlic, and olive oil. Rinse the birds under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Season the birds with salt and pepper and rub well with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for several hours. This is a strong marinade so they won’t need a lot of time.
While the birds are marinating, cook the mushrooms. In a large, heavy sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil (or more if needed to coat the pan lightly) over high heat. Tilt the pan to spread the oil. In rapid succession, add the mushrooms, lemon juice, and lemon zest, then cover and cook, shaking the pan, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the mushrooms begin to brown around the edges. Add the remaining rosemary, thyme, and garlic and cook for another minute or two, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add half of the vinaigrette and cook until the liquid in the pan is almost completely absorbed by the mushrooms. Remove from the heat and reserve until ready to serve.
To cook the quail, prepare a medium-hot charcoal and/or wood fire in a grill. If you are working with bone-in birds, split them at the backbone so they can be laid flat on the grill; if the breastbones have been removed, tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders to keep the breasts uncovered for nice grilling.
Place the birds on the grill rack directly over the fire and grill, turning once, for 2½ to 3 minutes on each side, until the skin is well caramelized. As the birds cook on each side, rotate each one a quarter turn after the first minute or so to create attractive crosshatching. A little charring on the skin here and there isn’t bad. Alternatively, you could cook the quail on a stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat.
Just before the quail are ready to come off the grill, in a small saucepan, bring the remaining half of the vinaigrette to a boil over high heat. Place the frisée and arugula in a bowl, pour the hot vinaigrette over the top, and toss to mix. Reheat the mushrooms until hot.
To serve, divide the greens among individual plates, placing them in the center. Sprinkle the mushrooms over the greens, dividing them evenly, and place a quail in the center of each plate. Garnish each serving with no more than ½ teaspoon of the coffee beans and serve.
GRILLED ASPARAGUS OR FAVA BEANS
WITH RICOTTA SALATA
Darren McRonald, a former chef at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, taught me this dish. If you want to be authentic, you can use a French cheese (they make literally hundreds of different kinds), but I have found that mildly salty ricotta salata is an excellent choice. You might instead opt for a French or American fresh goat cheese, a good feta, or even crumbled Roquefort. | SERVES 6
2 POUNDS ASPARAGUS (ABOUT 24 SPEARS), TOUGH ENDS SNAPPED OFF, OR YOUNG, TENDER FAVA BEANS IN THE POD
4 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 OUNCES RICOTTA SALATA CHEESE
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal and/or wood fire in a grill. Place the asparagus or fava beans in a flat, shallow dish, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat evenly.
Place the asparagus or fava beans on the grill rack directly over the fire and grill, turning as needed to cook evenly, for 2 to 4 minutes, until they turn a brighter shade of green and are just starting to become tender. A grilling basket or perforated tray helps keep the vegetables from falling through the grill grates.
Transfer to a serving platter. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and crumble or coarsely grate the cheese over the top. Very young, tender fava beans can be eaten pod and all, though some diners may choose to squeeze the steamed beans free of the pods.
Apple Charlotte
APPLE CHARLOTTE
WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE OR WHIPPED CREAM
When selecting apples for this classic French dessert, pick larger ones. Smaller apples have more core by weight. A sweet-tart variety like McIntosh would be good. If you do not have a traditional charlotte mold, just about any straight-sided pot or mold with a cover will work. I used a Le Creuset mold for this recipe and have also used a terrine covered with aluminum oil in the past; soufflé dishes would also work. | SERVES 6 TO 8
3 TO 4 POUNDS COOKING APPLES
½ CUP APRICOT JAM OR ORANGE MARMALADE
¼ TO ⅓ CUP SUGAR, DEPENDING ON SWEETNESS OF APPLES
2 TO 4 TABLESPOONS DARK RUM
1½ TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
1 TEASPOON PURE VANILLA EXTRACT
1 (1½-POUND) LOAF BRIOCHE, CHALLAH, OR OTHER EGG BREAD, CUT INTO ¼- TO ⅓-INCH-THICK SLICES
CRÈME FRAÎCHE OR LIGHTLY SWEETENED WHIPPED CREAM, FOR GARNISH
Peel and core the apples but leave them whole. Put them in a heavy saucepan, place over low heat, cover, and cook slowly, letting them steam in their own juices, for 15 to 20 minutes, until very soft and mashable.
Add ¼ cup of the jam, the sugar, rum to taste, the butter, and the vanilla to the apples and mash together all of the ingredients until well mixed. Then continue to cook over low heat, uncovered, until very thick. The timing will vary depending on the type of apple used. Remove from the heat and reserve.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Have ready an 8-cup charlotte mold. Cut the bread slices into rectangles that can be easily fit in the mold. One at a time, dip one side of each bread rectangle into the clarified butter and arrange the bread over the entire bottom and sides of the mold, with the buttered side against the mold.
Pack the apple mixture into the bread-lined mold and then top with a layer of butter-dipped bread rectangles, with the buttered side up. Cover the mold. (At this point, the charlotte may be covered and refrigerated for 1 day before continuing. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking to take off some of the chill.)
Bake for 45 minutes, until golden brown and very aromatic. Transfer to a rack, uncover, and let cool for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the remaining ¼ cup jam and a few spoonfuls of water and heat, stirring, until warm and the consistency of a nice glaze.
To unmold the charlotte, invert a serving plate over the top of the mold and carefully flip the mold and plate together, and then carefully lift off the mold. Drizzle the warm jam glaze evenly over the charlotte and carry your masterpiece to the table so your guests can see it before it is cut. Pass a bowl of crème fraîche at the table.
