I have been fascinated with Greece, both ancient and modern, for nearly my whole life. I regularly read about it in books, newspapers, and magazines; watch programs about it on television, and have studied it in classrooms. My associations range from its crowded pantheon of gods and goddesses and extraordinary archaeological sites to Jacqueline Kennedy’s second husband, a shipping tycoon. Despite decades of fascination with everything Greek, I didn’t actually see the country in person until John and I went there on our honeymoon.
It was a boat trip—a summer cruise—and most of our time was spent island hopping alongside crowds of other vacationers. In fact, we never set foot on the mainland. But we did have a particularly wonderful—and iconic—meal one night of grilled fresh fish with lightly cooked greens and delicious honeyed fruits—a simple and delightful Mediterranean feast. Greek cooks draw on the same ingredients as their neighbors—fish, fresh vegetables, olive oil, olives, cheeses, lamb, poultry, grains—but prepare their bounty in uniquely Greek ways.
CRETAN MIXED-VEGETABLE CASSEROLE
This Cretan dish has the unusual name of symbetheri, or “in-laws,” most likely because it brings lots of unrelated vegetables together, much like in-laws at a wedding. It can be served hot, at room temperature, or chilled, and I always make it in big batches because it comes in handy for a quick lunch, plus it tastes better the day after it is made. It is a rustic dish, so do not cut any of the vegetables too precisely and do include a mix of shapes and sizes. It is ideally made in summertime when fresh tomatoes and summer squashes are at their best, but you can substitute canned tomatoes for the fresh and 2 cups of peeled and diced winter squash (kabocha, butternut, acorn) for the summer squash in the cool months. Kalamata olives are the traditional choice here, but sometimes I find them too briny and instead opt for another Mediterranean olive. Use any olive that you like. In the menu, I am serving this dish as a first course, but it would make a wonderful main course or a side dish to grilled or roasted fish or chicken. | SERVES 6
OLIVE OIL, FOR SAUTÉING
8 VERY SMALL GLOBE EGGPLANTS, OR 4 ASIAN EGGPLANTS, TRIMMED AND HALVED OR IN BIG CHUNKS
3 YELLOW SUMMER OR PATTYPAN SQUASHES, CUT INTO 2-INCH CHUNKS
3 SMALL ZUCCHINI, ROLL CUT INTO 2-INCH CHUNKS (SEE
OPPOSITE), OR 12 BABY ZUCCHINI, TRIMMED AND LEFT WHOLE
2 SMALL RED OR SWEET ONIONS, FINELY CHOPPED
2 OR 3 CARROTS, PEELED AND CUT INTO ANGLED CHUNKS
4 TO 6 MEDIUM TO SMALL POTATOES (SUCH AS RUSSIAN FINGERLING OR YUKON GOLD), PEELED AND HALVED OR QUARTERED, DEPENDING ON SIZE
4 LARGE TOMATOES,
PEELED AND QUARTERED, OR 1½ TO 2 CUPS CANNED TOMATOES, QUARTERED
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH OREGANO
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
4 CLOVES GARLIC, SLICED
1 BUNCH COLLARD GREENS, MUSTARD GREENS, SWISS CHARD, OR RAINBOW CHARD, STEMMED AND CUT INTO 2-INCH PIECES
4 TO 6 OUNCES FETA CHEESE, CRUMBLED, FOR GARNISH
LEMON WEDGES, FOR GARNISH
BLACK OLIVES, FOR GARNISH
GRILLED OR WARMED CRUSTY BREAD SLICES, FOR SERVING
Coat a large saucepan with olive oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant and cook, turning as needed, for 10 to 12 minutes, until caramelized on all sides. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the summer squashes and then with the zucchini, adding more oil to the pan if needed to prevent scorching and transferring the vegetables to a plate as each batch is done. The timing for the squashes and zucchini will be shorter.
Pour a little more oil into the pan and add the onions, carrots, and potatoes and stir to coat lightly with the oil. Decrease the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for about 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Uncover, add the tomatoes and half of the parsley and oregano, and season with salt
and pepper. Bring to a boil and add the garlic and the reserved caramelized vegetables. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the greens and cook for 10 to 20 minutes longer, until the greens are wilted to your liking. In Crete, the vegetables are cooked until completely tender, but if you prefer your vegetables a bit firmer, shorten the cooking time.
To finish, transfer the vegetables to a large, deep platter, sprinkle with the remaining parsley and oregano, and serve hot or let rest before serving. This dish reheats well (it may be kept overnight in the refrigerator) and is also delicious cold. Garnish with the feta, lemon wedges, and olives just before serving and pass the bread at the table.
A ROLL CUT IS GOOD FOR CYLINDRICAL VEGETABLES, SUCH AS ZUCCHINI, ASPARAGUS, CUCUMBERS, OR CARROTS WITH THE VEGETABLE ON A CUTTING BOARD, MAKE THE FIRST CUT AT ONE END AT ABOUT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE. ROLL THE VEGETABLE A QUARTER TURN TOWARD YOU AND MAKE A SECOND CUT AT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE. CONTINUE TO ROLL THE VEGETABLE A QUARTER TURN AND CUT AT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE EACH TIME UNTIL YOU REACH THE OPPOSITE END OF THE VEGETABLE.
Lamb Stew
WITH GARLIC, PARSLEY, AND VINEGAR
You can enjoy this stew any time of year. In winter, the
beet salad is the perfect dish to precede it. In summer, use the dressing for the beet salad on a first-course salad of sliced assorted heirloom tomatoes. In fall, serve baked acorn, butternut, or kabocha squash alongside the stew. Or, for an even simpler supper, accompany the stew with crusty bread and a tumbler of red wine.
I have used lamb from the leg here, but it can made with shank or shoulder meat, too. Generally, I like to trim off excess fat and sinew, although the meat is always more tender when I haven’t removed the fat. If you choose not to trim the fat, you will need to skim more often. | SERVES 6
2 OR 3 SMALL TO MEDIUM EGGPLANTS, TRIMMED AND CUT INTO ½-INCH DICE
SEA SALT
½ CUP DRIED CURRANTS OR RAISINS
⅓ CUP RED WINE VINEGAR
¼ CUP DRY RED WINE
⅓ TO ½ CUP OLIVE OIL
3½ POUNDS BONELESS LAMB FROM THE LEG, TRIMMED OF FAT AND SINEW AND CUT INTO 2-INCH CUBES
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 LARGE YELLOW ONIONS, DICED
2 TO 4 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
2 TO 2½ POUNDS FRESH TOMATOES,
PEELED AND CHOPPED; 4 TO 5 CUPS CANNED TOMATOES, CHOPPED; OR 4 TO 5 CUPS CANNED TOMATO PUREE
SCANT 1 TABLESPOON HONEY
1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CINNAMON
1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN
4 TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH MINT
In a colander, toss the eggplant with enough salt to coat it lightly and let drain for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the currants, vinegar, and wine and leave to soak until needed. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
To brown the meat, place a large, ovenproof braising pan or flameproof terra-cotta casserole over medium-high heat and pour in enough of the olive oil to coat the bottom nicely. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add some of the lamb to the pan, being careful not to crowd the pan. (Work in small batches to ensure caramelization–not steaming.) If you didn’t hear a sizzle when the lamb hit the oil, increase the heat. Sear the meat, stirring occasionally and scraping up any brown bits that stick to the pan bottom, until browned on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate to drain. Brown the remaining meat in batches the same way.
If the pan is dry, add a little more oil. Then add the onion and garlic and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until the onion is
caramelized and has softened. If the garlic looks as if it might burn, decrease the heat slightly. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the onion and garlic to the plate with the lamb.
To start building the stew, add a little more oil to the pan if it is dry. Gently squeeze the excess moisture from the eggplant, put the eggplant in the pan, and stir to coat with the oil. Sauté the eggplant for a few minutes and then stir in the tomatoes, honey, cinnamon, cumin, and 2 tablespoons each of the mint and parsley. Bring to a boil, return the lamb and the onion and garlic to the pan, add the currants and their soaking liquid, and stir to mix well.
Cover the pan and transfer it to the oven. Braise for 1 to 1½ hours, checking from time to time and skimming off any fat as needed, until the lamb is tender and the juices have reduced to a saucelike consistency. When the meat is tender, take out the solids and reduce the liquid on the stove top, then recombine. Transfer the stew to a warmed serving dish, sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons each mint and parsley, and serve at once.
Here in California, I can find the ingredients for this easy salad from late fall until early spring, so I named it after the season in which it fits best. The red and golden beets and the salad greens will brighten a winter table. The same dressing complements a tomato salad in summer. | SERVES 6
3 MEDIUM-LARGE RED BEETS
3 MEDIUM-LARGE GOLDEN BEETS
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
1 CUP WATER
1 SHALLOT, MINCED
2 TABLESPOONS RED WINE VINEGAR
7 TO 9 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH DILL
1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH MINT
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1 HEAD FRISÉE, WHITE AND PALE GREEN LEAVES ONLY, CUT CROSSWISE INTO 1-INCH PIECES
1 HEAD TREVISO RADICCHIO, CUT CROSSWISE INTO 1½-INCH PIECES
1 HEAD ESCAROLE, TRIMMED OF ALL GREEN, CHOPPED INTO 1- TO 1½-INCH PIECES
½ CUP CRUMBLED FETA, FOR GARNISH
½ SMALL RED ONION, THINLY SLICED INTO HALF RINGS, FOR GARNISH
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 375°F. If the beet greens are still attached, trim them off, leaving ½ inch of the stem intact, and reserve for another use. In a roasting pan just large enough to accommodate the beets in a single layer, combine the beets, olive oil, salt, and water. Swish everything around so that the oil, salt, and water are well mixed and all of the beets are coated with some of the mixture.
Pop the pan into the oven and roast the beets for 1½ to 2 hours, until fork-tender. The timing will depend on their size.
To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together the shallot and vinegar. Gradually whisk in 7 tablespoons of the oil in a slow, steady stream and continue to whisk until well emulsified. Whisk in the dill and mint and season with salt and pepper. Taste and if it is too tart, add some or all of the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, a little at a time, until you arrive at the balance you like.
When the beets are ready, remove from the oven. When they are cool enough to handle, peel them, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices, and place in a bowl. Pour about one-third of the dressing over the beets (reserve the remainder for the greens) and marinate for at least 20 minutes.
To serve, arrange the beets, overlapping the slices slightly, on a nice plate. Place the greens in a bowl, drizzle with the remaining two-thirds dressing, and toss to coat. Pile the dressed greens in the center of the beets. Garnish the greens and the beets with the feta and onion and grind some pepper over the top.
POTATOES, TOMATOES, AND GREENS
Yahnera, a Cretan dish, combines potatoes, leeks, onions, and fennel. Tsigarelli, a specialty of Corfu, mixes greens with onion, garlic, and fennel and sometimes a touch of tomato. In this recipe, I have joined elements from both dishes along with what I had on hand the day I made it. For the greens, assemble a mixture that will impart a flavor that is a nice mix of mild and bitter. Rather than toss out the trimmed tough stems from the greens, you can chop them and tenderize them along with the onions.
If you use vegetable stock rather than chicken stock, this dish will make a nice main course for vegetarians. To turn it into a tasty appetizer, sprinkle it with feta cheese and serve it with grilled bread. And if you have leftovers, add some cooked dried heirloom beans and their broth or more stock to make a soup. | SERVES 6
¼ CUP OLIVE OIL
1 LEEK, WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY, CUT INTO ½-INCH-THICK SLICES
1 YELLOW ONION, DICED
2 TO 4 SMALL HEIRLOOM POTATOES, FINELY DICED
1 CUP
CHICKEN STOCK OR VEGETABLE STOCK, STORE-BOUGHT REDUCED-SODIUM CHICKEN OR VEGETABLE BROTH, OR WATER
1 TEASPOON FENNEL SEEDS, CRUSHED IN A MORTAR
2 CUPS
PEELED AND DICED FRESH OR CANNED TOMATOES
1 FENNEL BULB, BULB DICED AND FRONDS CHOPPED AND RESERVED FOR GARNISH
1 TEASPOON GROUND ALEPPO OR ESPELETTE PEPPER
2 BUNCHES KALE, CHARD, AND/OR MUSTARD GREENS, TOUGH STEMS REMOVED (SEE HEADNOTE) AND LEAVES TORN INTO BITE-SIZE PIECES
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
JUICE OF ½ TO 1 LEMON
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, FOR DRIZZLING
In a small Dutch oven or other heavy pot, heat the olive oil over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the leek and onion (and the chopped stems from the greens, if using), cover, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and starting to caramelize (
see more on caramelizing onions).
Add the potatoes, stock, and fennel seeds and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, fennel bulb, and Aleppo pepper, stir well, cover, and cook for about 5 minutes, until the potatoes are half-cooked (test with a fork). Add the greens and continue to cook, covered, for 5 to 8 minutes, until the potatoes and greens are tender and the juices have reduced and are syrupy.
If the vegetables are cooked to your liking but the dish is too brothy, using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a plate, increase the heat to high, and boil until the juices are reduced. Return the vegetables to the pan, stir to coat with the reduced juices, and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the fennel fronds, and drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil. Serve hot or at room temperature. It is also very tasty chilled.
Walnut Cake
WITH CITRUS SPOON SWEET
This combination is often eaten during Lent because it contains neither eggs nor butter. Spoon sweets, which are like jams that you eat with a spoon instead of smear on your morning toast, are very good but very sweet. This is an authentic recipe and the fruit must be cooked very slowly for the best result. Use a wide, heavy pan to ensure even evaporation, and cook the fruit until it is the consistency of a heavy syrup, rather than of a marmalade. Depending on the time of year and how juicy the fruits are, you may need to add more water toward the end of cooking.
Unless all of your guests have a serious sweet tooth, you will have some of the spoon sweet left over. It is good folded into an ice cream base, warmed and spooned on top of oatmeal, or served with pound cake and tea. You can also pack it into tightly capped small canning jars for gift giving. It will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of months. Just be careful to use a clean spoon to dish it out each time.
The walnut cakes go together quickly, which makes them a good choice for dessert even when you are not making spoon sweets. They make an excellent base for any seasonal fruit when you are pressed for time. You can forgo making the spoon sweets and instead heat up some high-quality orange or lemon marmalade for soaking the cakes and a good apricot jam to spoon on top. I used ½-cup custard cups for baking the cakes, but you can also use miniature angel food cake pans or individual soufflé dishes, adjusting the cooking time as necessary. | MAKES 6 SMALL CAKES
2 ORANGES
3 LEMONS
2 CUPS SUGAR
1 CUP WHITE WINE
2 CUPS WATER
½ CUP HONEY
1 CINNAMON STICK
½ CUP FRANGELICO OR BRANDY
1 TEASPOON BAKING SODA
1 CUP SEMOLINA
1 CUP FINELY CHOPPED WALNUTS
⅓ CUP SUGAR
1 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
¼ TEASPOON GROUND CLOVES
GRATED ZEST AND JUICE OF 2 ORANGES (½ CUP JUICE)
¼ CUP WALNUT OIL OR VERY FRUITY EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT, FOR GARNISH
WALNUT HALVES,
TOASTED, FOR GARNISH
To make the spoon sweet, slice off the stem end of each citrus fruit. Place the fruits in a saucepan, add water to cover, and bring to a full rolling boil over high heat. Boil for 1 minute and drain. Repeat this step 3 to 5 times, always starting the fruits in cold water, until they are very tender (this both tenderizes the fruits and removes some of their bitterness). Let the fruits cool until they can be handled.
Cut each fruit in half through its equator (not through the stem end). Cut each half into quarters and remove the white membrane connector (in the center of the orange) and seeds. Then finely cut each quarter into either perfect squares or rustic pieces. Both end up looking and tasting great.
Return the fruit pieces to the pan, add the sugar, wine, water, honey, and cinnamon, and stir to mix well. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and then decrease the heat to a very slow simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, for 1½ to 2 hours. Remember, the slower you go the better. I often put a
heat diffuser under the pan to avoid scorching. The mixture is ready when it is the consistency of a thick syrup and the skin of the fruit is tender and beginning to become translucent. If the mixture thickens too much and becomes like a marmalade before it is the correct consistency, add a bit more water and keep cooking. Remove from the heat, remove and discard the cinnamon stick, and reserve until needed.
To make the cake, preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray six ½-cup custard cups or similar molds with nonstick cooking spray and set them on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a small bowl, combine the Frangelico and baking soda and set aside. In a food processor, combine the semolina, nuts, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and cloves and process until fluffy and almost powdery. Pour into a big bowl. (It is okay to do this part by hand; the cakes will just have a little more “texture” from the hand-chopped walnuts.) Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the orange zest and juice, the Frangelico mixture, and the walnut oil. Using a wooden spoon, mix just until all of the ingredients are evenly moistened.
Fill each prepared mold three-fourths full (the cakes need room to expand in the heat of the oven). Bake for about 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cake comes out dry and the top springs back when gently pressed. Remove from the oven.
While the cakes are still hot from the oven, prick the top of each one about a dozen times with a toothpick or skewer. Spoon a little of the syrupy part of the spoon sweet (no more than a scant tablespoon) over the top of each cake. Let the cakes cool completely.
To serve, turn each cooled cake out onto a dessert plate. Top each cake sparingly with the spoon sweet and add a dollop of yogurt and the walnuts. Be sure to be generous with the yogurt. It is a welcome contrast to the sweetness of the dessert and it brightens the palate.
