INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Z

A

Abbazia di Novacella: 227

Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: 453

A.C. Milan: 278

Accademia (Florence): 474, 494–495; eating near, 539–540; reservations, 25, 488–489; sleeping near, 518–519

Accademia (Venice): 48, 60, 76–77

Accademia Bridge (Venice): 40, 60, 95; eating near, 112–113; map, 96–97; sleeping near, 95, 98–99

Accademia Musicale Chigiana (Siena): 611

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Acqua alta: 44–45

Adige River: 158, 171, 228

Agriturismo: 1163–1164. See also specific destinations

Airbnb: 1158–1159, 1162–1163

Air-conditioning, in hotels: 1162

Airfares (airlines): 23, 25, 1203–1204

Airports: Florence, 470; Milan, 332–335; Naples, 962–963; Perugia/Assisi, 760; Pisa, 575; Rome, 952–955; Venice, 118–121; Verona, 162

Alabaster Museum (Volterra): 649

Alabaster Workshop (Volterra): 652

Almanac, Italy: 1129

Alpe di Siusi: 201, 215–225; biking, 220, 225; hiking, 215, 218, 221–225; map, 216–217

Alpine Gardens (Stresa): 266

Altar of Peace (Ara Pacis; Rome): 829, 833

Altesino (near Montalcino): 710

Alto Adige: See Dolomites

Amalfi Coast: 18, 1081–1126; maps, 1083, 1090–1091; planning tips, 1082; self-guided tour, 1086–1092; tours, 970–971, 1045, 1084–1085; transportation, 1082–1086. See also Sorrento

Amalfi Town: 1090–1091, 1103–1110; eating, 1109; map, 1104; sights/activities, 1105–1109

Amalfi Town Cathedral: 1106–1107

Ambrose, Saint: 272, 290, 291, 292, 305–306, 312, 314

American Catholic Church (Rome): 887

American Express: 1148, 1150

Amerigo Vespucci Airport (Florence): 470

Amphitheaters (arenas): Assisi, 726–727; Lucca, 581, 583; Pompeii, 1034–1035; Verona, 163, 165–166. See also Colosseum

Anacapri: 1067, 1069; sights/activities, 1075–1078

Anatomy Theater (Padua): 135

Anchovy Festival (Monterosso): 341

Ancient Rome: 809–810, 844–862; eating near, 930–931, 934–935; guided tours, 827, 830; history of, 854, 859, 1127–1131; maps, 845, 847, 912–913, 1130; nightlife, 911; sleeping near, 914–917

Andersen, Hans Christian: 432–433

Anthony of Padua, Saint: 143–149

Antica Civita: 802–803

Apartment rentals: 1158–1159, 1162–1163

Aperitivo: 168, 181, 326, 327, 635, 653, 656, 930, 931, 1171–1172

Apps: 26, 1184; hotels, 1155; messaging, 1184–1185; navigation and maps, 32, 1152, 1199; Rome, 820, 824; sightseeing, 1154; train schedules, 1190, 1194; user reviews, 1159

Aracoeli Church (Rome): 867

Ara di Cesare (Rome): 858

Ara Pacis (Rome): 829, 833; eating near, 944–945

Arch of Constantine (Rome): 829, 850

Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome): 860

Arch of Titus (Rome): 853

Arco della Pace (Milan): 315

Arco di Tito (Rome): 853

‘Arena’ (Scrovegni) Chapel (Padua): 137–142; map, 140

Arengario Palace (Milan): 297–298

Armida Theater Cinema (Sorrento): 1057–1058

Armory (Venice): 72

Arnikahütte: 223

Arno River: 463, 487, 553, 558

Arsenale (Venice): 86

Arsenal Museum (Amalfi): 1106

Art: history timeline, 1133–1134; Venice Biennale, 62, 86. See also specific artists

Art museums: reservations, 25; sightseeing tips, 1152–1154. See also specific art museums

Artviva (Florence): 477, 547

Assisi: 17, 602, 720–760; arrival in, 722–723; eating, 757–759; helpful hints, 723–725; information, 721; maps, 722, 724–725, 728–729, 754–755; planning tips, 721; sights, 737–753; sleeping, 754–757; transportation, 722–723, 726, 759–760; walking tours, 726–749

Assisi Pinacoteca: 750

ATMs: 1146–1148. See also specific destinations

Atrani: 1092, 1108–1109

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1205

Auditorium Parco della Musica (Rome): 909

Augustine of Hippo: 292, 305

Augustus: 833, 840–841, 854, 858, 870, 873, 909, 1066, 1080, 1130, 1136

B

Bagatti Valsecchi Museum (Milan): 312

Bagnoregio: 795–806; eating, 805; helpful hints, 798; map, 796–797; sleeping, 804; transportation, 795–798, 806

Bagno Vignoni: 679, 715, 717–718

Baia delle Favole (Sestri Levante): 432–433, 434

Baia del Silenzio (Sestri Levante): 434–435

Banchi di Sopra (Siena): 615–616

Banchi di Sotto (Siena): 615–616

Bancogiro (Venice): 105

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money

Baptistery: Florence, 475, 482–483, 491–492; Milan, 291–292; Padua, 135–137; Pisa, 568–569; Siena, 604, 625; Verona, 172

Bar Camparino (Milan): 296–297

Bar Centrale (Riomaggiore): 411, 415, 417, 419

Bardini Garden (Florence): 511, 514

Bardolino: 111, 179

Bargello (Florence): 474, 508–509

Bars and cafés: overview, 1170–1171. See also specific destinations

Bartolomeo, Saint: 291

Basilica Aemilia (Rome): 858

Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi): 737–749; maps, 740, 746; self-guided tour, 739–749

Basilica di San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica

Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi): 750–752

Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio (Milan): 280, 305–306

Basilica of Constantine (Rome): 853–854

Basilica of St. Anthony (Padua): 143–149; map, 145

Basilica of St. Clare (Assisi): 731–732

Basilica of St. Francis (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco

Basilica Palladiana (Vicenza): 157

Basilica San Pietro (Rome): 828, 878–885; map, 879

Baths of Caracalla (Rome): 862–863

Baths of Diocletian (Rome): 829, 905

Baths of the Forum (Pompeii): 1029

Baveno: 264

Beaches: Atrani, 1108; Bonassola, 427; Capri, 1071, 1078; Cinque Terre, 343; Manarola, 404; Monterosso, 365–366; Riomaggiore, 416–417; Vernazza, 382–383, 386; Lake Como, 242, 253, 262; Lake Maggiore, 269; Levanto, 426; Marina di Praia, 1089; Marina di Puolo, 1056; Meta Beach, 1055–1056; Paraggi, 443–444, 449, 450, 452; Portofino, 452; Porto Venere, 456; Positano, 1098, 1099; Punta del Capo, 1056; Santa Margherita, 442, 443–444; Sestri Levante, 434–435; Sorrento, 1055–1056; Venice, 62, 84

Beccafumi, Domenico: 619

Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 1161–1162

Beer: 198–200, 584, 911, 941, 1179–1180

Bellagio: 250–257, 258; eating, 255–257; helpful hints, 250, 252; information, 250; map, 251; sights/activities, 252–253; sleeping, 253–254; transportation, 250

Bellini (cocktail): 111

Bellini family: 73, 75, 76, 81, 143, 156, 174, 311, 998

Bellini Theater (Naples): 981

Bell towers (campaniles): Castelrotto, 205; Florence, 475, 481, 491; Pisa, 561–565; Positano, 1097; Venice, 49, 65, 73

Belluno: 225–226

Bergamo Airport (Milan): 335

Bernini, Giovanni Lorenzo: 613, 622, 1137; in Rome, 839, 843–844, 875, 882–883, 885, 898, 900–901, 905–906

Beverages: 1177–1182. See also Wine and vineyards

Biblioteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 303

Biking (bike rentals): Alpe di Siusi, 220, 225; Bolzano, 188; Compatsch, 220; Florence, 472–473, 477; Levanto, 425–426; Lucca, 580, 589–590; Milan, 279; Orvieto, 767; Rome, 897; Santa Margherita, 438; Sestri Levante, 433

Bishop’s Palace (Pienza): 699

Blue Grotto (Capri): 1073–1075

Blue Marlin Bar (Vernazza): 383, 387, 393

Boating: Amalfi Town, 1105; Capri, 1072–1073; Cinque Terre, 343, 417; Levanto, 424–425; Positano, 1099; Sorrento, 1057. See also Kayaking

Boat travel: map, 1188–1189; Amalfi Coast, 1015, 1085; Capri, 1015, 1068–1069, 1072–1073, 1080; Cinque Terre, 344–346, 354, 366–367, 386–387, 408; Civitavecchia, 955; Lake Como, 231, 232–233, 235, 242–243, 250, 257–259; Lake Maggiore, 264; Lake Orta, 271; Levanto, 426, 432; Livorno, 550; Naples, 962, 1015; Portofino, 448, 449; Porto Venere, 455; Positano, 1095, 1099; Rome, 955; Santa Margherita, 447; Sestri Levante, 436; Sorrento, 1044, 1065–1066; Venice, 41–47, 57, 84–85, 119–120, 121; Grand Canal cruise, 51–62

Boboli Garden (Florence): 511, 514

Boccioni, Umberto: 78, 298

Bolzano: 185–201; eating, 198–200; helpful hints, 188; information, 186; map, 190–191; sights/activities, 192–196; sleeping, 196–197; transportation, 186, 188, 200–201; walking tour, 188–191

Bolzano Cathedral: 189

Bolzano City Hall: 190

Bolzano Dominican Church: 193–194

Bonassola: 427–428; hiking, 349, 353, 427–428

Books, recommended: 1209–1213

Borghese Gallery (Rome): 828, 898–901; map, 899

Borghese Gardens (Rome): 896–898

Borgo Marinaro (Naples): 1002–1003

Borgo Santi Apostoli (Florence): 517

Borgo Stretto (Pisa): 559

Borromeo, Charles: 267, 290

Borromeo Islands: 263, 267–270; map, 266

Borsa (Milan): 303

Botticelli, Sandro: 302, 505

Boy Extracting a Thorn: 864

Brancacci Chapel (Florence): 475, 514

Branca Tower (Milan): 314

Bravio delle Botti (Montepulciano): 680, 684

Breakfast: overview, 1166

Brera (Milan): eating, 330; nightlife, 320

Brera Art Gallery (Milan): 280, 310–311

Bressanone: 227

Bridge of St. Antonio (Bolzano): 196

Bridge of Sighs (Venice): 49, 62, 72, 73–74

Brindisi: transportation, 118, 332, 952, 1016

Brixen: 227

Brothel (Pompeii): 1033

Brunelleschi, Filippo: 481–482, 490, 492, 494, 496, 497, 510, 874, 1209

Brunello di Montalcino: 537, 679, 703, 706–710, 715

Brunello Wine Bus: 708

Bruno, Giordano: 837, 964

Budgeting: 23

Burano: 49, 84; map, 82–83

Buses (bus travel): 1196–1197; maps, 1188–1189, 1195. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 1145–1146

C

Cable cars (funiculars): Alpe di Siusi, 218–220; Capri, 1071–1072, 1077–1078; Castelrotto, 209; Compatsch, 218–220; Florian, 223–224; Naples, 968, 1003–1004; Oberbozen, 194–195; Puflatsch, 222–223; Stresa, 265–266

Cabs: 1197; tipping, 1150. See also specific destinations

Cadenabbia: 260

Ca’ d’Oro (Venice): 56–57

Cafés: overview, 1170–1171. See also specific destinations

Caffè Florian (Venice): 75, 88

Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua): 132–133

Caffè Tazza d’Oro (Rome): 840

Ca’ Foscari (Venice): 59

Calata Porta di Massa: 962, 1016

Calatrava Bridge (Venice): 55

Caligula’s Palace (Rome): 856

Calvario (Castelrotto): 208–209

Campania ArteCard: 958, 967, 1014

Campaniles: See Bell towers

Campatelli Tower House (San Gimignano): 669

Campidoglio (Rome): 829, 863–864

Campo de’ Fiori (Rome): 836–837; eating near, 929, 935, 938; market, 836, 908; sleeping near, 915–917

Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa): See Field of Miracles

Campo San Barnaba (Venice): eating, 113–114

Campo Santa Margarita (Venice): 114

Campo Santa Maria Formosa (Venice): 93–94, 109

Camposanto Cemetery (Pisa): 569–571

Canal District (Milan): 281, 317–318, 320; eating, 330–331

Canaletto: 76, 79, 311, 459

Canals of Venice: See Venice canals

Canazei: 226

Cannaregio (Venice): 31, 55; eating, 102–108

Cannaregio Canal (Venice): 55

Canoeing: See Kayaking

Canova, Antonio: 73, 81, 143, 260, 302, 310, 900

Cantina della Talosa (Montepulciano): 691

Ca’ Pesaro (Venice): 56

Capitoline Hill (Rome): 863–866; map, 865

Capitoline Museums (Rome): 828, 864–866

Capitoline She-Wolf: 864

Capodimonte Museum (Naples): 997–1001

Capodimonte Park (Naples): 1001

Capote, Truman: 450

Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua): 137–142; map, 140

Cappella del Transito (Assisi): 751–752

Cappella Sansevero (Naples): 986, 990–991

Cappelle Medicee (Florence): 474, 497–498

Cappelletta delle Gave: 449

Capri: 18, 1066–1080; helpful hints, 1071; information, 1069; maps, 1043, 1068; planning tips, 1067–1068; sights/activities, 1072–1080; tours, 970–971, 1045, 1068–1069; transportation, 1068–1071, 1080

Capri Cathedral: 1079

Capri City Hall: 1079

Capri Lighthouse: 1078

Capri Town: 1069–1070, 1078–1080

Capuchin Church (Monterosso): 364

Caravaggio: 302, 311, 507; in Naples, 987, 992–993, 1000; in Rome, 831, 839, 874, 901

Carcer Tullianum Museum (Rome): 866

Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice): 48, 59, 60, 78–79

Car insurance: 1198–1199

Carnevale (Venice): 86, 1208

Carracci, Annibale: 999

Carrara: 459

Car rentals: 23, 1197–1198

Carriage rides, in Compatsch: 220

Car travel (driving): 1199–1203; best three-week trip, 21; distances and time, 1200, 1201; road signs, 1202–1203. See also specific destinations

Casa Buonarroti (Florence): 510

Casa del Fauno (Pompeii): 1031–1032

Casa del Poeta Tragico (Pompeii): 1030

Casa di Menandro (Pompeii): 1034

Casa Rossa (Capri): 1076

Casinò, in Venice: 56

Castello (Venice): 31

Castello Banfi-Poggio alle Mura (near Montalcino): 710

Castello Brown (Portofino): 451

Castello di Vezio (Varenna): 241

Castello Doria (Porto Venere): 457

Castello Sforzesco (Milan): 280, 312–314

Castelmuzio: eating, 678, 694, 702

Castel Nuovo (Naples): 995

Castel Roncolo (Bolzano): 196

Castelrotto: 201–215; eating, 213–214; helpful hints, 202–204; information, 202; map, 203; nightlife, 210; sights/activities, 208–210; sleeping, 211–213; transportation, 202, 204, 214–215; walking tour, 204–208

Castelrotto Bell Tower: 205

Castelrotto Church: 205

Castelrotto Main Square: 204–206

Castelrotto Music Festival: 1209

Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome): 829, 895–896

Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples): 1004

Castel Tasso: 227–228

Castelvecchio (Verona): 173–174

Catacombs of Priscilla (Rome): 829, 901–902

Catacombs of San Gennaro (Naples): 1001

Cathedrals: See Duomos

Catherine of Siena, Saint: 615, 621, 627

Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo

Cattelan, Maurizio: 303

Cattolica University (Milan): 306

Cellini, Benvenuto: 486, 487, 508, 509

Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 1182–1886. See also Apps

Cemetery of the Fountains (Naples): 1001–1002

Central Market (Florence): 498, 550

Cerasi Chapel (Rome): 831

Certosa di San Giacomo (Capri): 1080

Certosa e Museo di San Martino (Naples): 1004–1005

‘Chapel of Maradona’ (Naples): 986

Chapel of the Incarcerated (Civita): 803

Chapel of the Madonna del Voto (Siena): 622–623

Chapel of the Reliquaries (Padua): 147

Chianti (region): 688–689, 714; tours, 643

Chianti (wine): 537, 1180

Chigi Chapel (Rome): 831

Chigi-Saracini Palace (Siena): 611

Christmas markets: 1209; Bolzano, 189

Christ of the Abyss: 453

Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 1135; sightseeing tips, 1155. See also specific churches and cathedrals

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona (near Montalcino): 710

Ciampino Airport (Rome): 954–955

Cicchetti, in Venice: 104–105, 106–107; guided tours, 49–50

Cimabue, Giovanni: 504, 510, 566, 744

Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Naples): 1001–1002

Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 281, 318

Cinque Terre: 12, 336–420; at a glance, 338; beaches, 404, 416–417; cards, 346–347; crowd-beating tips, 345; eating overview, 355–357; events, 341; flood and recovery, 363; helpful hints, 340–342; information, 339; maps, 337, 350–351; planning tips, 337–339; Riviera towns near, 421–461; sleeping overview, 354–355; transportation, 339–340, 342–346. See also Beaches, Cinque Terre; Hiking, Cinque Terre; and specific destinations

Cinque Terre Main Coastal Trail: 346–347, 348–350, 352–353, 365, 384–385; map, 350–351

Cinque Terre National Park: 339, 347, 411, 424, 457

Circumvesuviana Train: 1014; Herculaneum, 1035; map, 1015; Naples, 959, 1016; Pompeii, 1019; Sorrento, 1044, 1064, 1065, 1115–1116; theft alert, 963–964

Civic Museums: See Museo Civico

Civita di Bagnoregio: 17, 602, 795–806; eating, 804–805; helpful hints, 798; map, 796–797; sleeping, 803–804; transportation, 795–798, 806; walking tour, 799–803

Civita di Bagnoregio Church: 801–802

Civitavecchia: 955

Clare, Saint: 729, 730, 751–753; Basilica (Assisi), 731–732; biographical sketch, 733

Climate: 19–20, 1217

Clock towers: Lucca, 585; Montalcino, 704; Montepulciano, 685; Orvieto, 768; Venice, 61, 65–66

Clothing sizes: 1216

Coffee: 1178–1179

Col dei Rossi Belvedere: 226

Colle di Gritta: 352, 365

Colonna del Marzocco (Montepulciano): 684

Colosseum (Rome): 828, 845–850; eating near, 934–935; map, 847; sleeping near, 914–915

Columbus, Christopher: 442, 735

Column of Phocas (Rome): 861

Column of the Immaculate Conception (Rome): 843

Como (town): 231, 262–263

Como, Lake: 229–230, 234, 238–239, 250, 252, 257–260; beaches, 242, 253, 262; boat travel, 231, 232–233, 235, 242–243, 250, 253, 257–259; kayaking, 253; maps, 230, 233

Compatsch: 215–220, 222; map, 216–217

Constantine: 272, 864, 891, 1131, 1136; Arch of (Rome), 829, 850; Basilica of (Rome), 853–854

Consulates: 1144

Contucci Cantina (Montepulciano): 689–690

Cooking classes: Florence, 477, 547; Lucca, 580; Manarola, 407; Montalcino, 678; Paestum, 1126; Siena, 601; Varenna, 244; Volterra, 657–658

Corniglia: 338, 396–401; eating, 400–401; events, 341; hiking, 348, 349–350, 385, 399, 407; information, 396; map, 397; sleeping, 399–400; transportation, 396–397

Corno: 987

Corpus Domini (Orvieto): 767, 776

Correr Museum (Venice): 48, 73

Corsignano Parish Church: 701, 716

Corso (Montepulciano): 681, 684–686

Corso Cavour (Orvieto): 769, 793–794

Corso Colombo (Sestri Levante): 433

Corso Como (Milan): 317

Corso il Rossellino (Pienza): 697–698, 700, 701

Corso Italia (Pisa): 557–558, 1051

Corso Italia (Sorrento): 1051, 1054

Corso Marconi (Santa Margherita): 442

Corso Porta Borsari (Verona): 166–167

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (Rome): 838

Cortina: 225–226

Costa dell’Incrociata (Siena): 616

Costs of trip: 23

Credit cards: 26, 1146–1150

Crete Senesi: 688–689

Cristo degli Abissi: 453

Crivelli, Carlo: 311

Cruises: See Boat travel

Cuisine: 6, 7–8, 1173–1177; Cinque Terre, 355–357; courses, 1168; Florentine, 7, 536–537; Lake District, 7–8; Lucca, 594; Milanese, 7, 323, 326; Naples, 8, 1007; Roman, 8, 929, 932–933; Tirolean, 199; Tuscan, 536–537; Venetian, 7, 99–100, 110–111; Volterra, 658. See also Cooking classes; Eating; Gelato; Wine and vineyards

Curia (Pompeii): 1026

Curia (Rome): 859–860

Currency and exchange: 1146–1149

Customs House (Venice): 61, 78

Customs regulations: 1151–1152

D

Daddi, Bernardo: 485

Dante Alighieri: 139, 169–170, 487, 668, 779, 982, 1212

David (Bernini): 900

David (Michelangelo): 474, 486, 494–495

Da Vinci, Leonardo: See Leonardo da Vinci

Debit cards: 26, 1146–1150

De Chirico, Giorgio: 298

Della Quercia, Jacopo: 588, 625, 626; Fountain of Joy, 609, 611, 626

Della Robbia family: 494, 496, 515, 690, 706

Della Scala (Scaligeri) Family tombs (Verona): 170

De’ Ricci Cantine (Montepulciano): 691

Devotional Column (Verona): 166

Diamond Tower (Milan): 316

Diefenbach, Karl Wilhelm: 1078

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Diocesan Museum (Assisi): 731

Discounts: 1146

Doge’s Palace (Venice): 48, 61, 66, 70–72; map, 71

Dolce Vita stroll (Rome): 829, 831–833; map, 832

Dolomites: 15, 17, 183–228; about, 207; map, 184; planning tips, 184–185. See also specific destinations

Dominican Church (Bolzano): 193–194

Donatello: 80–81, 145–146, 622; in Florence, 484, 485, 487, 492, 494, 497, 509

Döner kebab: 181, 1063, 1170

Dopolavoro La Foce: 714, 717

Doriforo: 979

Dorsoduro (Venice): 31, 76–79; eating, 109, 112–114; map, 96–97; sleeping, 95, 98–99

Drinks: 1177–1182. See also Wine and vineyards

Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations

Ducal Palace (Venice): 48, 70–72; map, 71

Duccio di Buoninsegna: 504, 618, 621–622, 624

Duomos: architecture, 1135; sightseeing tips, 1155; Florence, 474, 479, 481–482, 489–491; Milan, 280, 285–292, 294–295; Montepulciano, 690–691; Naples, 991–992; Orvieto, 768, 773–780; Pienza, 698, 700; Pisa, 565–567; Ravello, 1111; San Gimignano, 667; Siena, 607, 612–614, 619–623; Verona, 172; Volterra, 646

Durazzo Park (Santa Margherita): 443

Dying Gaul: 866

E

East Rome: 810, 902–906; map, 902–903

Eataly (Florence), 534; (Milan), 317

Eating: 1165–1177; budget, 1169–1173; ordering tips, 1168–1169; pricing, 1165–1166; restaurant phrases, 1222; seasonal produce, 1174; tipping, 1150, 1167–1168. See also Cooking classes; Cuisine; Gelato; Markets; and specific destinations

Economy of Italy: 1129, 1142

Egyptian obelisks (Rome): 831, 840–841, 876–877

Ekklesiasterion (Paestum): 1122

Electricity: 1146

Embassies: 1144

Emerald Grotto: 1089

Emergencies: 1144

Engelrast: 223

Enoteca Oreste (Verona): 167

Ercolano (Herculaneum): 1035–1039; map, 1037

Eremitani (Padua): 142–143

Eremo delle Carceri (Mount Subasio): 753

Esino: 231, 237

Esino River: 236–237

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 25, 1144

Etruscans: best sights, 655; map, 655; overview, 654–655. See also specific sights and museums

Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 643

Etruscan Museums: Orvieto, 782; Volterra, 650–652

Etruscan Necropolis (Orvieto): 784

Etruscan Tunnel (Civita): 803

Euro currency: 1147

F

Falconry: 241

Farmhouse accommodations (agriturismo): overview, 1163–1164. See also specific destinations

Farnese Collection (Naples): 974–975

Faro (Capri): 1078

Fellini, Federico: 1137, 1214

Feltrinelli (Florence), 468, 472; (Milan), 278; (Naples), 959, 965; (Padua), 126; (Rome), 813, 842; (Siena), 601

Ferries: See Boat travel

Festa di Calendimaggio (Assisi): 723

Festa di San Francesco (Assisi): 723

Festivals: 1207–1209. See also specific destinations

Field of Miracles (Pisa): 552, 560–571; map, 561; tickets, 562

Films, recommended: 1213–1215

Fiordo: 1089

Firenze: See Florence

Firenze Card: 471

Fishing: 340, 346, 407, 444

Fish markets: Levanto, 424; Milan, 326; Naples, 1002; Pisa, 555, 559; Santa Margherita, 442; Venice, 57, 79, 116

Fiumelatte: 243

Fiumicino Airport (Rome): 952–954

Flavio Gioia: 1103

Florence: 12, 462–550; at a glance, 474–475; arrival in, 467–470; eating, 529–548; excursion areas, 551–596; festivals, 1207–1209; helpful hints, 470–473; information, 466–467; layout of, 463, 466; planning tips, 462; reservations, 25, 488–489; shopping, 516–517; sights, 488–516; sightseeing tips, 470–471, 488–489; sleeping, 517–528; tours, 476–478; transportation, 467–470, 473, 476, 548–550; walking tour, 478–488

Florence Duomo: 474, 479, 481, 489–491; climbing the dome, 475, 490–491; eating near, 534–535; guided tours, 489–490; Museum, 474, 492–494; sleeping near, 518–519; view of, 481–482

Florian Chairlift: 223–224

Fondaco dei Tedeschi (Venice): 40, 49, 57, 79

Fondamente Nove (Venice): eating, 115

Fontana Vecchia (Vernazza): 384

Fonte Gaia (Siena): 609, 611, 626

Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Fish markets; Gelato; Markets; Olive oil; Panforte; Pecorino cheese; Pesto; Speck; Wine and vineyards

Foreigners’ Club (Sorrento): 1044, 1057, 1062–1063

Fornillo Beach (Positano): 1098, 1099

Foro Romano (Roman forums): Assisi, 749–750; Paestum, 1121; Pompeii, 1024, 1026; Rome, 828, 850–861; map, 852

Fortezza di Montalcino: 704, 706

Forums of Augustus and Nerva (Rome): 870, 909

Fountain of Joy (Siena): 609, 611, 626

Four Rivers Fountain (Rome): 839

Fra Angelico: 496–497, 778

Fra Bartolomeo: 496, 646

Framura: 349, 422, 427–428

Francis of Assisi, Saint: 720, 729, 750–753; Basilica (Assisi), 737–749; biographical sketch, 730; message of, 742–743

Frari Church (Venice): 48, 79–81

Freud, Sigmund: 194

Freudpromenade (Bolzano): 195

Funiculars: See Cable cars

Funivia del Renon (Bolzano): 194–195

G

Galileo Galilei: 134, 487, 508, 565

Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa): 575

Galileo Science Museum (Florence): 474, 508

Galleria Alberto Sordi (Rome): 841–842, 906

Galleria Borbonica (Naples): 995–996

Galleria Borghese (Rome): 828, 898–901; map, 899

Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence): See Uffizi Gallery

Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence): See Accademia

Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice): See Accademia

Galleria Principe di Napoli (Naples): 980–982

Galleria Umberto I (Naples): 959, 995, 1006

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan): 280, 296–297

Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza): 157

Gallerie d’Italia (Milan): 281, 301–302

Gallery of Modern Art (Florence): 513–514

Galli Islands: 1078, 1087

Garibaldi, Giuseppe: 315, 362, 558, 983, 1140

Gates of Paradise (Ghiberti): 475, 482–483, 491, 493–494

Gelato: 537, 1176–1177; Bellagio, 256–257; Bolzano, 200; Corniglia, 398; Florence, 537, 543; Lucca, 595; Manarola, 410; Milan, 330; Montepulciano, 693–694; Naples, 988; Orvieto, 793; Pienza, 701–702; Pisa, 558; Rome, 934, 943; San Gimignano, 672; Santa Margherita, 447; Sestri Levante, 436; Siena, 635; Sorrento, 1063–1064; Varenna, 248; Venice, 117; Vernazza, 396; Verona, 181; Volterra, 660

Gentile da Fabriano: 311

Geological Museum (Civita): 801

German Exchange (Venice): 57

Gesù Church (Montepulciano): 686

Gesù Church (Rome): 875

Gesù Nuovo Church (Naples): 986, 989

Ghiberti, Lorenzo: 484, 491, 625; Bronze Doors (Florence), 475, 482–483, 493–494

Ghirlandaio, Domenico: 649, 667

Giacometti, Alberto: 651

Giambologna: 486, 494, 509

Giardinetti Reali (Venice): 37, 109, 116

Giardini di Augusto (Capri): 1079

Giardino Giusti (Verona): 175

Giglio Theater (Lucca): 587

Giolitti (Rome): 841, 943

Giordano, Luca: 498–499, 837, 1000, 1005

Giorgione: 76, 143

Giotto di Bondone: 143, 504, 750; Bell Tower (Florence), 475, 481, 491; biographical sketch, 138; St. Francis Basilica (Assisi), 737, 743–749; Scrovegni Chapel (Padua), 137, 140–142

Gittana: eating, 247

Giudecca Canal (Venice): 113

Giudecca Island (Venice): 61

Giusti Garden (Verona): 175

Glass, Venetian: 83–84, 86–87

Glass Museum (Murano): 84

Glider rides: 204, 407–408

Glurns: 228

Golden Altarpiece (Venice): 70

Gondolas, in Venice: 84–85

Government of Italy: 1129, 1142

Gozzoli, Benozzo: 498, 668

Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Naples): 994

Gran Caffè Quadri (Venice): 75, 115–116

Grand Canal (Venice): 31, 40, 51–62; eating alongside, 115; map, 52–53

Gran Teatro alla Fenice (Venice): 88

Grassi Palace (Venice): 59–60, 78

Greco, Emilio: 775, 780; Museum (Orvieto), 780

Greek Memorial Tomb (Paestum): 1120

Grödner Tal: 226

Groppo: 352

Grotta Azzurra (Capri): 1073–1075

Grotta dello Smeraldo: 1089

Guggenheim (Peggy) Collection (Venice): 48, 60, 77–78

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1205

Guinigi Tower (Lucca): 590

Guvano Beach (Cinque Terre): 350

H

Hadrian: 839, 873, 895–896, 904, 1131

Haring, Keith: 557

Harry’s American Bar (Venice): 88–89

Heart of Rome walk: 833–845; map, 834–835

Hemingway, Ernest: 61, 89, 265

Herculaneum: 1035–1039; map, 1037

Hermitage (Mount Subasio): 753

Hiking: Alpe di Siusi, 215, 218, 221–225; Amalfi Coast, 1108–1109; Assisi, 753; Atrani, 1108–1109; Capri, 1071, 1078; Cinque Terre, 346–354; at a glance, 348–349; Bonassola, 349, 353, 427–428; Corniglia, 348, 349–350, 385, 399, 407; guided, 347–348; Manarola, 348, 350–352, 405–406, 407; map, 350–351; Monterosso, 348–349, 352–353, 365, 385, 426–427; Riomaggiore, 349, 353, 407, 413–414, 416; Vernazza, 348–350, 365, 384–386; Volastra, 348, 351–352; Dolomites, 195–196, 201, 208–210, 213, 221–225; Lake Como region, 241, 243–244, 252–253, 262, 265–266; Levanto, 348, 352–353, 426–427; Orvieto, 784–785; Portofino, 449–450, 452; Porto Venere, 456–457; Ravello, 1109, 1112; San Gimignano, 667–668; Sestri Levante, 433

Hill towns of central Italy: map, 603; overview, 602–603; sleeping overview, 603; transportation, 602–603. See also specific towns

History: 1127–1142; timeline, 1133–1134

Holidays: 1207–1209

Holy Rosary Church (Positano): 1096

Horse (da Vinci): 318–319

Horseback riding: 204

Horse-drawn carriage rides, in Compatsch: 220

Hospital of the Innocents (Florence): 496

Hostels: overview, 1164–1165. See also specific destinations

Hotels: money-saving tips, 1156–1157; overview, 1157–1161; reservations, 1160–1161. See also specific destinations

Hotel zum Wolf (Castelrotto): 208, 212

House of Juliet (Verona): 168–169

House of Menander (Pompeii): 1034

House of the Faun (Pompeii): 1031–1032

House of the Tragic Poet (Pompeii): 1030

House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome): 856

House of the Vettii (Pompeii): 1032

I

Ice cream: See Gelato

Ice Man: 192–193

Il Campo (Siena): 598, 607, 608–609, 616; eating, 635–636; sleeping, 628

Il Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 281, 318

Imperial Forums (Rome): 828, 867–871; map, 868; sound-and-light shows, 871, 908–909

Information sources: 1143–1144. See also specific destinations

Inter Milan: 278

Internet security: 1186

Isabella Experience (Castelmuzio): 678, 694, 702

Isola Bella (Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 267–268

Isola Madre (Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 269–270

Isola Superiore (Pescatori; Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 269

Italian Parliament (Rome): 841

Italian restaurant phrases: 1222

Italian Riviera: See Cinque Terre; Riviera

Italian survival phrases: 1221

Itineraries: 19–22

J

Jewish Ghetto (Venice): 55

Jewish Quarter (Rome): 866

John Paul II, Pope: 648–649, 884, 1051

John XXIII, Pope: 882

Juliet’s House (Verona): 168–169

Julius Caesar: 836, 854, 858, 870, 909, 1128, 1130, 1136; Temple of (Rome), 858

K

Kastelruth: See Castelrotto

Kastelruther Spatzen-Laden (Castelrotto): 206, 208

Kayaking (canoeing): Cinque Terre, 343, 417; Lake Como, 253; Levanto, 424–425

Klobenstein: 194

Kloster Neustift: 227

Kornplatz (Bolzano): 189

L

La Biennale (Venice): 62, 86

Lace, Venetian: 84, 87

Lace Museum (Burano): 84

La Fenice Opera House (Venice): 88

La Foce Gardens: 679, 714, 716–717; eating and sleeping, 680, 714, 717

Lake Como Food Tours: 243–244

Lake Como region: 229–263; maps, 230, 233; planning tips, 230–231

Lake District: 15, 229–271; map, 230. See also specific destinations

Lake Maggiore region: 263–271; map, 266

Lakes: See specific lakes

Langkofel: 215, 218

Language: 28; German, 187; online translation tip, 1146; restaurant phrases, 1222; survival phrases, 1221

Language barrier: 1183

Largo Taragio (Corniglia): 399

La Rinascente: Florence, 516, 542; Milan, 319, 328; Rome, 906

La Salute Church (Venice): 49, 61, 78

La Scala Opera House and Museum (Milan): 280, 299–301

La Spezia: 422, 457–461; map, 458

La Strada dei Santuari: 353–354

Last Supper, The (Leonardo): 25, 280, 284, 307–310; sleeping near, 321–322

Laubengasse (Bolzano): 189–190

La Vena di Vino (Volterra): 652–653

Leaning Tower of Pisa: 561–565

Leather, shopping for, in Florence: 509–510, 516

Lemon Grove Garden (Sorrento): 1054–1055

Lenno: 259

Leonardo da Vinci: 299, 303, 304, 306, 506, 891; Horse (Milan), 318–319; The Last Supper (Milan), 280, 284, 307–310

Leonardo da Vinci National Science and Technology Museum (Milan): 281, 306

Levanto: 422, 423–432; beaches, 426; eating, 430–432; helpful hints, 424–426; hiking, 348, 352–353, 426–427; information, 424; map, 425; sights/activities, 426–428; sleeping, 428–430; transportation, 424, 432

Library of Trees (Milan): 316

Lido of Venice: 62, 84

Lifts: See Cable cars

Li Galli Islands: 1078, 1087

Limoncello: 356, 1052, 1054–1055, 1056, 1087, 1180

Linate Airport (Milan): 334–335

Linens, shopping for: 1099

Lippi family: 505, 514, 586

Livorno: 550

Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence): 486

Loggia della Mercanzia (Siena): 615

Lombardy: See Milan

Lorenzetti brothers: 617, 619, 744

L.O.V.E. (Milan): 304

Lubriano: 797–798

Lucca: 17, 575–596; eating, 593–595; helpful hints, 577, 580; information, 576; maps, 578–579, 582; planning tips, 576; sights, 589–591; sleeping, 591–592; tours, 581; transportation, 577, 596; walking tour, 581–589

Lucca Cathedral Museum: 588–589

Lucca Classica: 577

Lucca Clock Tower: 585

Lucca ramparts: 575, 589–590

Lucca Volto Santo: 577, 580, 588, 1209

Lugano: 263, 332

Luini, Bernardino: 304

Lungomare (Naples): 1002–1003

M

Machiavelli, Niccolò: 487, 510, 1211

Madonna del Voto Chapel (Siena): 622–623

Madonna di Montenero: 353, 416

Madonna di Reggio: 348, 365, 385–386

Madonna di Vitaleta Chapel: 715

MADRE (Naples): 996

Maggiore, Lake: 263–264; beaches, 269; boat travel, 264; map, 266

Mahlknechthütte: 223–224

Mail: 1186–1187. See also Post offices

Malpensa Airport (Milan): 332–334

Mamertine Prison (Rome): 829, 866

Manarola: 338, 401–410; beaches, 404; eating, 409–410; events, 341; experiences, 407–408; hiking, 348, 350–352, 405–406, 407; information, 401; map, 402–403; sleeping, 408–409; tours, 407–408; transportation, 339–340, 401–403; walking tour, 403–407

Manarola Cemetery: 406

Manarola Church: 405

Manarola Harbor: 403–404

Mantegna, Andrea: 77, 174, 310–311, 998

Maps: apps and navigation tools, 32, 1152, 1199. See also Map Index

Maradona (Diego) Chapel (Naples): 986

Marble Museum (Carrara): 459

Marco Polo Airport (Venice): 118–120

Maretsch Castle (Bolzano): 195

Marina di Praia: 1089

Marina di Puolo: 1056

Marina Grande (Capri): 1069–1070; beach, 1071; map, 1070

Marina Grande (Sorrento): 1044, 1048, 1053–1054, 1056; eating, 1054, 1064; map, 1049

Marina Piccola (Sorrento): 1044, 1048, 1055, 1066

Marinzen Lift (Castelrotto): 209

Mark, Saint: See St. Mark’s Basilica

Markets: seasonal produce, 1174; Assisi, 723; Bagnoregio, 798; Bolzano, 188, 189, 191, 200; Castelrotto, 204; Florence, 498, 499, 516, 550; Levanto, 424; Lucca, 577; Milan, 298, 320, 326; Montalcino, 704; Montepulciano, 682; Monterosso, 360; Naples, 984, 1002; Orvieto, 767; Padua, 124, 127, 130, 149; Pienza, 696–697; Pisa, 555, 559; Rome, 836, 907–908; San Gimignano, 664; Santa Margherita, 439, 442; Sestri Levante, 433; Siena, 601; Varenna, 238; Venice, 57, 79, 116; Vernazza, 375, 378; Verona, 167; Volterra, 642. See also Fish markets

Martini, Simone: 617, 618–619, 668, 744, 781, 1000

Masaccio: 510–511, 514, 998

Massages, in Cinque Terre: 360, 378

Mastrojanni (near Montalcino): 709

Maurizio Tower (Orvieto): 768

Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome): 833

Meazza Stadium (Milan): 278

Medical emergencies: 1144

Medici Chapels (Florence): 474, 497–498

Medici Fortress and Archaeological Park (Volterra): 653

Medici-Riccardi Palace (Florence): 475, 498–499

Medieval Festival (Volterra): 642

Menaggio: 262

Mendel Haus (Castelrotto): 206

Mercato Centrale (Florence): 498, 550

Mercato Monti (Rome): 907

Mercato Nuovo (Florence): 499, 516

Mercato Rialto (Venice): 57, 116; eating, 101, 104–106

Mercato Trionfale (Rome): 907

Mergellina (Naples): 1003

Meta Beach: 1055–1056

Metric system: 1215–1216

Metro: Milan, 278–279; Naples, 962, 966–968; Rome, 820–823

Michelangelo Buonarroti: 459, 613, 621, 685, 974, 998, 1136–1137; in Florence, 481, 482, 485, 486, 490, 494, 497–498, 507; David, 474, 486, 494–495; guided tours, 477–478; House, 510; Medici Chapels, 474, 497–498; Tomb, 510; Uffizi Gallery, 506; Pietà Rondanini (Milan), 313; in Rome, 833, 837, 863–864, 867, 874, 875, 881–882, 883–884, 900; Moses, 829, 871–872; Sistine Chapel, 891–895

Milan: 15, 272–335; at a glance, 280–281; arrival in, 275–277; eating, 323–331; helpful hints, 277–278; information, 275; maps, 273, 279, 282–283, 286, 324–325; nightlife, 320; planning tips, 274; vs. Rome, 276–277; shopping, 319–320; sights, 285–319; sleeping, 320–323; tours, 284; transportation, 275–277, 278–279, 332–335

Milan Archaeological Museum: 305

Milan City Hall: 298

Milan Duomo: 285–292; eating near, 326–329; map, 289; Museum, 280, 292–294; orientation, 280, 285–287; rooftop, 294–295; self-guided tour, 287–292; shopping near, 319–320; sleeping near, 321

Milano Centrale: 275–276, 332; sleeping near, 322–323

Milan Pinacoteca Ambrosiana: 280, 302–303

‘Millstone Square’ (Vernazza): 383–384

Minghetti, Marco: 838

Mobile phones: 26, 1182–1186. See also Apps

MoDo City Museum (Orvieto): 780–781

Monastery of San Giacomo (Capri): 1080

Mondo Guide: 968–969, 970–971, 1021, 1045, 1068–1069, 1086

Money: 1146–1152; budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations

Montalcino: 602, 679, 703–712, 715; eating, 711–712; information, 704; map, 706; sights, 704–707; sleeping, 680, 711; transportation, 704, 712; wine and wineries, 679, 703, 706–710, 715

Montalcino City Hall: 704–706

Montalcino Fortezza: 704, 706

Montalcino Museums: 706

Monte Amiata: 700, 716

Monte dei Paschi (Siena): 616

Monte Palatino (Rome): 828, 861–862

Montepulciano: 602, 679, 680–694; eating, 693–694; helpful hints, 682; information, 681; map, 683; sights/activities, 689–692; sleeping, 680, 692; transportation, 681–682, 694; walking tour, 682–688

Montepulciano Duomo: 690–691

Montepulciano Town Hall: 686–687

Monterosso al Mare: 338, 357–374; beach, 365–366; eating, 371–374; events, 341; experiences, 365–367; helpful hints, 360; hiking, 348–349, 352–353, 365, 385, 426–427; information, 357; map, 358–359; nightlife, 367; sleeping, 367–371; transportation, 339–340, 357–360, 374; walking tour, 361–365

Monterosso al Mare Cemetery: 365

Monte Solaro (Capri): 1070, 1077–1078

Monti (Rome): 810, 816, 871; eating, 930–931, 934–935; nightlife, 911; shopping, 906, 907

Monticchiello: 716, 719; eating, 694, 702, 719

Monumental Cemetery (Milan): 281, 318

Moscati, Giuseppe: 989

Moses (Michelangelo): 829, 871–872

Mountain lifts: See Cable cars

Mount Mottarone: 266

Mount Subasio: 721, 753

Mount Vesuvius: 1017, 1026, 1028, 1039–1041

Movies, recommended: 1213–1215

Munich: transportation, 118, 201, 215, 332, 952

Murano: 49, 83–84; map, 82–83; shopping, 83–84, 86–87

Musei Capitolini (Rome): 828, 864–866

Musei Civici agli Eremitani (Padua): 142–143

Musei di Montalcino: 706

Musei Vaticani (Rome): 828, 885–895; map, 888

Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia): 459

Museo Archeologico (Naples): 969–979, 980; eating near, 1008–1009, 1012; map, 973; self-guided tour, 972–979

Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige (Bolzano): 192–193

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Orvieto: 782

Museobottega della Tarsialignea (Sorrento): 1055

Museo Civico: Naples, 995; Orvieto, 782; Padua, 142–143; San Gimignano, 668–669; Siena, 607, 616–617

Museo Civico del Marmo (Carrara): 459

Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico (Orvieto): 782

Museo Correr (Venice): 48, 73

Museo del Duomo (Milan): 280, 292–294

Museo della Carta (Amalfi): 1105, 1107

Museo della Cattedrale (Lucca): 588–589

Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome): 829, 833

Museo delle Sinopie (Pisa): 571

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Florence): 474, 492–494

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Orvieto): 780–781

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Pisa): 571

Museo dell’Opera e Panorama (Siena): 607, 623–625

Museo del Novecento (Milan): 281, 296, 297–298

Museo del Parco (Portofino): 452

Museo di Capodimonte (Naples): 997–1001

Museo Diefenbach (Capri): 1080

Museo Diocesano (Assisi): 731

Museo di San Marco (Florence): 474, 496–497

Museo Emilio Greco (Orvieto): 780

Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra): 650–652

Museo Galilei (Florence): 508

Museo Galilei e Istituto di Storia della Scienza (Florence): 474

Museo Geologico (Civita): 801

Museo Missionario Indios (Assisi): 736

Museo Naturalistico Archeologico (Vicenza): 156–157

Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Florence): 474, 508–509

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Tecnica ‘Leonardo da Vinci’ (Milan): 281, 306

Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Rome): 828, 903–904

Museo Pietà Rondanini (Milan): 313

Museums: sightseeing tips, 1152–1154. See also specific museums

Museum of Ancient Art (Milan): 314

Museum of Costume and Fashion (Florence): 514

Museum of Inlaid Wood (Sorrento): 1055

Museum of San Marco (Florence): 474, 496–497

Museum of the Imperial Forums (Rome): 870

Museum of the Innocents (Florence): 496

Museum of the Risorgimento: Milan, 281, 311; Padua, 133–134

Museum of the Sinopias (Pisa): 571

Music: See Opera

Musica a Palazzo (Venice): 88

Music on the Rocks (Positano): 1098, 1100

Mussolini, Benito: 183, 187, 268, 273, 295, 296, 297, 303, 866–867, 870, 985, 1137, 1140–1141

N

Nanni di Banco: 484, 485, 491

Naples: 18, 956–1016; arrival in, 959, 962–963; eating, 1007–1013; helpful hints, 963–965; history of, 964–965; information, 959; maps, 960–961, 966–967, 980–981, 1010–1011; planning tips, 957–958; sights, 969–1005; sleeping, 1005–1007; tours, 968–969; transportation, 959, 962–963, 965–968, 1014–1016; walking tours, 979–989

Naples Archaeological Museum: 969–979, 980; eating near, 1008–1009, 1012; map, 973; self-guided tour, 972–979

Naples Centrale Station: 959, 963; eating, 1007–1008, 1013; sleeping near, 1006–1007

Naples Civic Museum: 995

Naples Duomo: 991–992

Naples International Airport: 962–963, 1065

Napoli Sotterranea: 987, 996

National Archaeological Museum of Orvieto: 782

National Museum of Rome: 828, 903–904

Naval Museum (Naples): 1005

Naviglio Grande (Milan): 281, 317–318, 320; eating, 330–331

Necropoli Etrusca di Crocifisso del Tufo (Orvieto): 784

Nerva: 870

‘New Beach’ (Vernazza): 382–383, 386

New Bolzano: 195

Nightlife: See Opera; and specific destinations

North Rome: 810, 896–902; eating, 944–945; map, 897; nightlife, 911

Nuova Bolzano: 195

O

Oberbozen: 194–195

Obstplatz (Bolzano): 188, 191, 200

Olive oil: 243, 379, 426, 550, 608, 702, 710, 757, 786, 790, 791

Oltrarno (Florence): 466, 511–516; eating, 542–548; maps, 512–513, 528–529; shopping, 517; sleeping, 526–528

Olympic Theater (Vicenza): 156

Opera: Lucca, 587; Milan, 280, 299–301; Naples, 994–995; Rome, 909–910; Venice, 88; Vernazza, 387; Verona, 162

Oratorio dei Pellegrini (Assisi): 736

Oratory of St. George (Padua): 149

Oratory of Santa Caterina (Corniglia): 399

Oratory of Sant’Erasmo (Santa Margherita): 442–443

Oratory of the Dead (Monterosso): 363–364

Orcagna, Andrea: 485

Orcia River: 714, 718

Orsanmichele Church (Florence): 484–485, 499

Orta, Lake: 271

Orta San Giulio: 271

Orto Botanico (Padua): 149–150

Orvieto: 17, 602, 762–794; eating, 791–794; helpful hints, 767; history of, 763; information, 764–765; maps, 764–765, 770–771, 788–789; nightlife, 767; sights/activities, 773–786; sleeping, 786–791; tours, 767–768; transportation, 765–767, 794; walking tour, 768–773

Orvieto City Hall: 769

Orvieto Classico: 761, 785–786

Orvieto Duomo: 768, 773–780; map, 774; Museum, 780–781

Orvieto National Archaeological Museum: 782

Orvieto ramparts: 772, 785

Ospedale degli Innocenti (Florence): 496

Oswald-von-Wolkenstein Riding Tournament (Castelrotto): 202

Ötzi the Iceman: 192–193

P

Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1219

Padua: 123–154; eating, 151–154; helpful hints, 126; information, 124, 126; maps, 125, 128–129; planning tips, 124; sights, 127–150; sleeping, 150–151; transportation, 126–127, 154

Padua Botanic Garden: 149–150

Padua Civic Museums: 142–143

Padua University: 123, 134–135, 136

Paestum: 18, 1113–1126; background, 1117, 1119; eating, 1116; map, 1118; self-guided tour, 1119–1125; sleeping, 1125–1126; transportation, 1115–1116, 1126

Paestum Archaeological Museum: 1119–1122, 1122–1125

Palace of Tiberius (Rome): 856

Palatine Hill (Rome): 828, 861–862

Palazzi Papali (Orvieto): 781

Palazzo Balbi (Venice): 59

Palazzo Bò (Padua): 134

Palazzo Chigi-Saracini (Siena): 611

Palazzo Comunale (Montepulciano): 686–687

Palazzo Correale (Sorrento): 1050

Palazzo Davanzati (Florence): 502

Palazzo dei Conservatori (Rome): 864

Palazzo dei Priori (Volterra): 645–646

Palazzo del Comune (Assisi): 735

Palazzo della Ragione (Padua): 130–132

Palazzo della Ragione (Verona): 170

Palazzo del Popolo (Orvieto): 769, 794

Palazzo di Propaganda Fide (Rome): 842–843

Palazzo Ducale (Venice): 48, 70–72; map, 71

Palazzo Filippeschi (Orvieto): 772

Palazzo Grassi (Venice): 59–60, 78

Palazzo Grimani (Venice): 59

Palazzo Leoni Montanari Galleries (Vicenza): 157

Palazzo Madama (Rome): 839

Palazzo Massimo (Rome): 828, 903–904

Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Florence): 475, 498–499

Palazzo Nuovo (Rome): 865–866

Palazzo Papadopoli (Venice): 59

Palazzo Piccolomini (Pienza): 700

Palazzo Pitti (Florence): 474, 511–514

Palazzo Reale (Milan): 292–294, 296

Palazzo Reale (Naples): 993–994

Palazzo Ricci (Montepulciano): 691

Palazzo Valentini (Rome): 829, 871

Palazzo Vecchio (Florence): 474, 485–486, 507–508

Palazzo Viti (Volterra): 648–649

Palazzo Zuckermann (Padua): 143

Paleo-Christian Baptistery of San Giovanni (Milan): 291–292

Palio di Siena: 612–613, 1208

Palladio, Andrea: 76; Vicenza, 122, 154, 156–157

Panforte: 537, 637

Panorama dal Facciatone (Siena): 625

Pantheon (Rome): 828, 839–840, 873–874; eating near, 940–942; gelato, 943; map, 872; sleeping near, 917–918

Pantheon neighborhood (Rome): 810, 872–875; eating, 935–943; maps, 834–835, 872, 916, 936–937; sleeping, 915–918; walking tour, 833–844

Papal audiences: 886–887

Paper Museum (Amalfi): 1105, 1107

Paraggi Beach: 443–444, 449, 450, 452

Paragliding: 204, 407–408

Parco Archeologico (Volterra): 653

Parco delle Grotte (Orvietto): 784

Parco di Portofino: 452

Parco di Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita): 443

Parco Sempione (Milan): 314–315

Parmigianino: 507, 999

Pasquino (Rome): 838

Passeggiata: 173, 908, 1002–1003, 1054

Passo dello Stelvio: 228

Passo di Sella: 226

Passports: 25, 27, 1144, 1151, 1157

Pasta: overview, 1174–1175

Pazzi Chapel (Florence): 474, 509–510

Pecorino cheese: 536, 695, 698, 1176

Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice): 48, 60, 77–78

Pellegrinaio Hall (Siena): 626

Peretola Airport (Florence): 470

Perledo: 231, 236–237

Perugia/Assisi Airport: 760

Pesto: 432

Pflegerhof Herb Farm (Seis): 210

Phones: 1182–1187

Piano, Renzo: 909

Piazza Aldo Moro (Sestri Levante): 433

Piazza Antelminelli (Lucca): 577, 589

Piazza Bellini (Naples): 981

Piazza Brà (Verona): 158, 159, 163, 165; eating, 177–178, 180; sleeping, 176–177

Piazza Cadorna (Stresa): 266–267

Piazza Capellini (Manarola): 404

Piazza Capranica (Rome): 840

Piazza Caprera (Santa Margherita): 439, 441

Piazza Carità (Naples): 985

Piazza Citadella (Lucca): 586–587

Piazza Colonna (Rome): 841

Piazza Dante (Naples): 981–982

Piazza degli Affari (Milan): 303–304

Piazza dei Cavalieri (Pisa): 559–560

Piazza dei Mercanti (Milan): 281, 296, 298–299

Piazza dei Mulini (Positano): 1096

Piazza dei Priori (Volterra): 641, 642, 643, 653

Piazza dei Signori (Padua): 131, 132, 152

Piazza dei Signori (Verona): 169–170

Piazza dei Signori (Vicenza): 157

Piazza del Campidoglio (Rome): 829, 863–864

Piazza del Carmine (Florence): 545

Piazza del Duomo (Milan): 281, 295–296

Piazza del Duomo (Orvieto): 768

Piazza del Duomo (San Gimignano): 666–667

Piazza del Duomo (Siena): 612

Piazza del Giglio (Lucca): 587

Piazza del Grano (Bolzano): 189

Piazza della Chiesa (Bellagio): 252, 256

Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano): 665

Piazza della Frutta (Padua): 127, 130, 152

Piazza della Madonna dei Monti (Rome): 816, 911, 930, 934

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (Lucca): 581, 583

Piazza della Repubblica (Florence): 483–484, 499, 502

Piazza della Repubblica (Orvieto): 769–770

Piazza della Scala (Milan): 299

Piazza della Signoria (Florence): 466, 485–486; eating, 535, 538–539

Piazza delle Coppelle (Rome): 908

Piazza delle Erbe (Padua): 127, 130

Piazza delle Sorgenti (Bagno Vignoni): 717–718

Piazza delle Vettovaglie (Pisa): 555, 559

Piazza del Plebiscito (Naples): 984, 993

Piazza del Popolo (Levanto): 426

Piazza del Popolo (Montalcino): 704–706

Piazza del Popolo (Rome): 831

Piazza di Montecitorio (Rome): 840–841

Piazza di Pietra (Rome): 840

Piazza di Santo Spirito (Florence): 466, 544–545

Piazza di Spagna (Rome): 843, 906

Piazza Duomo (Ravello): 1110–1111

Piazza Erbe (Bolzano): 188, 191, 200

Piazza Erbe (Verona): 158, 167–168; eating, 178, 181; sleeping, 175–176

Piazza Farnese (Rome): 837

Piazza Flavio Gioia (Positano): 1097

Piazza Gae Aulenti (Milan): 316

Piazza Garibaldi (Montalcino): 704

Piazza Garibaldi (Monterosso): 362

Piazza Garibaldi (Naples): 989

Piazza Garibaldi (Pisa): 558–559

Piazza Gesù Nuovo (Naples): 985–986

Piazza Grande (Montepulciano): 686–688

Piazza Indipendenza (Siena): 615

Piazza Kraus (Castelrotto): 204–206

Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence): 466, 475, 514–515

Piazza Marconi (Vernazza): 381–382

Piazza Matteotti (Sestri Levante): 433

Piazza Mazzini (Santa Margherita): 439

Piazza Napoleone (Lucca): 587

Piazza Navona (Rome): 838–839; eating near, 929, 938–939

Piazza Pio II (Pienza): 698–699

Piazza Risorgimento (Rome): 943–944

Piazza Salimbeni (Siena): 616

Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (Naples): 986

Piazza San Giorgio (Varenna): 239–240

Piazza San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Square

Piazza San Michele (Lucca): 585–586

Piazza Santissima Annunziata (Florence): 475, 495–496, 539

Piazza Sette Settembre (Naples): 983

Piazza Tasso (Sorrento): 1043, 1048–1050

Piazza Tolomei (Siena): 615–616

Piazza Umberto I (Capri): 1078–1079

Piazza Venezia (Rome): 866–867; map, 865

Piazza Vittoria (Capri): 1075, 1077

Piazza Vittoria (Naples): 1003

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Pisa): 555, 557

Piazza Walther (Bolzano): 188–189

Piccolomini Altar (Siena): 621

Piccolomini Library (Siena): 623

Piccolomini Palace (Pienza): 700

Picnics (picnicking): 1172–1173. See also Markets; and specific destinations

Pienza: 602, 679, 695–703, 715; eating, 701–702; helpful hints, 696–697; information, 696; map, 696–697; sights, 697–701; sleeping, 678–679; transportation, 696, 703

Pienza City Hall: 699

Pienza Duomo: 698, 700

Piero della Francesca: 311, 505

Pietà (Michelangelo): 883–884

Pietà Rondanini (Michelangelo): 313

Pieve di Corsignano: 701

Pinacoteca: Assisi, 750; Padua, 142–143; Rome, 901; San Gimignano, 668–669; Siena, 607, 618–619; Volterra, 649

Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 280, 302–303

Pinacoteca di Brera (Milan): 280, 310–311

Pio Monte della Misericordia Church (Naples): 987, 992–993

Pisa: 17, 552–575; eating, 573–574; helpful hints, 555; information, 553; maps, 552, 556, 561; planning tips, 552–553; sights, 560–571; sleeping, 572–573; transportation, 553–555, 574–575; walking tour, 555–560

Pisa Duomo: 565–567; Museum, 571

Pisa Leaning Tower: 561–565

Pisano family: 143, 558, 564–571, 612–613, 622

Pitti Palace (Florence): 474, 511–514

Pius II, Pope: 693, 698–700, 701

Pizza (pizzerias): 1007, 1170, 1173; Naples, 988, 1007–1009; Roman, 933. See also specific destinations

Plattkofel: 215, 218

Poldi Pezzoli Museum (Milan): 281, 311–312

Pompeii: 18, 1017–1035; backgorund, 1023; eating, 1022; maps, 1018, 1020–1021, 1025; self-guided tour, 1023–1035; tours, 970–971, 1021–1022; transportation, 1018–1019

Ponte di Mezzo (Pisa): 555, 558

Ponte Pietra (Verona): 171

Ponte Scaligero (Verona): 174

Ponte Vecchio (Florence): 475, 487–488, 508; eating with a view, 542–544; sleeping near, 525–526

Pontone: 1108

Population of Italy: 1129

Porcelain Museum (Florence): 514

Pordoi Pass: 225–226

Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 643

Porta al Prato (Montepulciano): 681, 684

Porta Borsari (Verona): 166–167

Porta Garibaldi (Milan): 276, 317, 332

Port’Alba (Naples): 982

Porta Marina (Pompeii): 1023–1024

Porta Nolana Open-Air Fish Market (Naples): 1002

Porta Nuova (Milan): 280, 315–317

Porta Perlici (Assisi): 727

Porta Portese (Rome): 907

Porta San Giovanni (San Gimignano): 664

Porta Santa Maria (Civita): 799

Portofino: 422, 444, 448–454; maps, 449, 451

Porto Venere: 422, 454–457; hiking, 349, 353; map, 456

Porziuncola Chapel (Assisi): 751

Porziuncola Museum (Assisi): 752

Positano: 1087–1088, 1092–1102; eating, 1102; information, 1093; map, 1094–1095; nightlife, 1100; shopping, 1099–1100; sights/activities, 1099–1100; sleeping, 1100–1101; tours, 1093–1094; transportation, 1094–1095; walking tour, 1096–1099

Post offices: 1186–1187; Vatican City, 886, 890. See also specific destinations

Pozzo della Cava (Orvieto): 771–772, 782

Pozzo di San Patrizio (Orvieto): 783

Praiano: 1088–1089

Prato della Valle (Padua): 149

Presepi: 987, 1015, 1105

Priscilla, Catacombs of (Rome): 829, 901–902

Puccini, Giacomo: 300, 577, 581, 586–587; House (Lucca), 590–591

Puflatsch: 208, 219–220, 222–223

Punta Bonfiglio (Manarola): 406–407

Punta del Capo: 1056

Punta della Dogana (Venice): 49, 78

Punta di Montenero: 416

Punta Mesco: 349, 361–362, 427

Punta Spartivento: 238, 252, 256