abdomen adjustments, 97–98
accessories, 12–13
activewear, 202–211
ballpoint pins/needles, 25
basting tape, 30
bed skirts, 333–335
beeswax with holder, 25
betweens, 25
bias, 272
bias bound finish, 113
bias strips, 80
bias tape, 33
blindstitch hem foot, 13
bobbins, 10
bodkin, 31
body measurements, 37
bolster pillows, 237–239
bound seam finishes, 112–114
box pillows, 234–236
braid, 33
brocade, 62
buckram, 272
bust adjustments, 90–93
button foot, 13
buttonhole attachments, 12
buttonhole cutter, 31
buttonholes, 164–167
chainstitch, 16
clearance, 272
closures, 34, 162–183, 240–245
corded piping, 33
corners
inside, 22
outside, 23
cover stitch, 17
crewels, 25
crosswise grain, 272
cuffs, 130–133
curtains, 304–315
curved edges, 22
cushions, 256–263
cut length, 272
cutting board, 31
cutting layouts, 41
cutting tips, 80
cutting tools, 28
cut width, 272
darts, 120–121
decorator fabrics, 219–223
diagonal fabrics, 48
directional fabrics, 79
draperies, 316–323
dressmaker’s tracing paper, 26
duvet covers, 328–332
edges
curved, 22
decorative, 246–251
easy, 148–149
elasticized, 216–217
ribbed, 208–211
elastic, 33
elasticized edges, 216–217
elasticized waistbands, 202–207
embroidered fabrics, 65–67
equipment, 24–31
cutting tools, 28
hand sewing, 25
marking tools, 26
measuring tools, 27
pressing tools, 29
sewing-machine needles, 24
specialized, 30–31
even feed foot, 13
eyes, 34
fabric preparation, 73–74
fabrics. See also specific types
classic, 48–49
classification of, 44
decorator, 219–223
easy-to-sew, 45
handling special, 46
sewing techniques for, 47
tailoring, 185
fashion drawings, 40
fasteners, 34
fine thread, 32
finish, 272
finished length, 272
flanged pillow shams, 325–327
flange pillows, 232–233
flat-fell seams, 107–108, 115, 117
flatlock stitch, 17
flat panel curtains, 304–307
flounce, 272
French seams, 105–106, 115, 116, 225
fringe, 251
frogs, 34
fullness, 272
fur, 69
fusible interfacings, 57, 70–72, 184–189
futon covers, 264–267
gabardine, 48–49
gathers, 122–125
glue, 30
hand basting, 82
hand sewing equipment, 25
heading, 273
heavyweight fabrics, 47
hems, 142–149, 196–197, 286–287
hip adjustments, 98–101
inside corners, 22
interfacings, 57, 70–72, 184–189
interlining, 273
ironing board, 30
irons, 29
jackets
lining, 198–199
tailoring, 185–197
knife-edge pillows, 228–229
lace, 65–67
lace seam binding, 33
lamé, 62
lapped closures, 244–245
layout
of directional fabrics, 79
pattern, 75
of plaids and stripes, 76–78
leather, 69
length adjustments, 87–89
leotards, 212–217
lightweight fabrics, 47
liquid markers, 81
liquid ravel preventer, 30
loop turner, 31
lustrous fabrics, 62–63
man-made fibers, 44
marking tips, 81–83
marking tools, 26
measuring tools, 27
medium-weight fabrics, 47
metallic fabrics, 62
milliner’s needles, 25
miter, 273
mock box pillows, 230–231
mock up, 273
mounting boards, 282–285
napkins, 347–348
napped and pile fabrics, 46
natural fibers, 44
necklines
finish for, 148–149
ribbed, 209–211
needle gripper, 30
needles
hand sewing, 25
serger, 15
sewing-machine, 24
needle threader, 25
no-grain fabrics, 47
notched collars, 190–193
notions, 32–35
one-way design fabrics, 46
on-grain, 273
outside corners, 23
overedge foot, 13
overedge seam finish, 115, 116
overedge stitch, 16
overlap, 273
overlock seams, 115
overlock stitch, 16
pants, lining, 200–201
paper-back fusible web, 31
parsons chairs, 268–271
patch pockets, 150–154
to bust, 90–93
guidelines for, 85
to hips, 98–101
to length, 87–89
methods, 86
for swimsuits and leotards, 212–213
to waist and abdomen, 94–98
pattern catalogs, 36
patterned fabrics, 222–223
pattern envelope, 38–39
pattern pieces, 42
pattern repeat, 273
patterns
components, 40–43
laying out, 75
selecting, 36
pillows, 226–251
closure options, 240–245
decorative edges, 246–251
forms and fillings, 227
types of, 228–239
pillow shams, 325–327
pin catcher, 31
pinch-pleated draperies, 316–323
placemats, 344–346
plain seams, 224
pleating pins, 25
pockets, 150–161
point presser/clapper, 29
point turner, 31
polyester thread, 32
preparation, fabric, 73–74
preshrinking, 74
press cloth, 29
pressing mitt, 29
pressing tools, 29
pressure regulation, 10–11
prints, 48
projection, 273
quilting pins, 25
railroading, 273
return, 273
ribbed edges, 208–211
ribbing, 55
rickrack, 33
rod pocket, 273
rod-pocket curtains, 312–315
rolled hem stitch, 17
Roman shades, 296–303
rotary cutter, 28
ruffles, 250
rules, 27
satin, 62
scarf swags, 288–291
scissors, 28
seam finishes, 110–119
seam gauge, 27
seam ripper, 28
seam roll, 29
seams, 102–119
curved, 104
encased, 105–108
ending, 21
home décor, 224–225
for loose weaves, 51
machine-stitching, 103
serged, 115–119
starting, 21
stretch, 109
types of, 115–119
seam tape, 33
seat covers, 253–263
self-bound seams, 105
self-lined, 273
sequined fabrics, 62
serged seams, 115–119
sergers, 14–25
basic of, 20–23
care and maintenance, 15
functions and parts, 14–15
tension adjustments, 18–19
types of, 16–17
sewing directions, 41
sewing-machine needles, 24
sewing machines. See also sergers
accessories, 12–13
choosing, 9
stitch adjustments, 10–11
threading, 10
shades, Roman, 296–303
shank, 12
shank buttons, 34
sharps, 25
shears, 28
shoulder pads, 194–195
shoulders, tailoring jacket, 194–195
shower curtains, 336–337
silk pins, 25
silky fabrics, 58–61
skirts, lining, 200–201
sleeve board, 29
slipcovers, 252–271
slits, stitching, 22
snap tape, 34
special purpose foot, 13
stacking space, 273
stitched and pink seams, 110
stitches
removing, 23
types of, 16–17
stitch length regulator, 10
straight pins, 25
straight stitches, 11
straight-stitch plate, 12
stretch seams, 109
suede, 69
supplies, 32–35. See also equipment
swags, 288–291
swimsuits, 212–217
synthetic fur, suede, and leather, 69
tab curtains, 308–311
tablecloths, 338–343
table-top ironing board, 30
taffeta, 62
tailoring, 184–201
tailor’s ham, 29
tape measure, 27
tapes, 33
thread
types of, 32
thread clipper, 28
toggles, 34
tools. See equipment
tracing paper, 26
tracing wheels, 26
tricot bound finish, 113
trims, 33
T-square, 27
turn and stitched finishes, 110, 111
twill tape, 33
twill weave fabrics, 46
undertreatment, 273
valances, 292–295
velvet, 49
waist adjustments, 94–98
waistbands, 140–141
weights, 31
welting, 246–249
window hardware, 276–281
window measurements, 274–275
window treatments, 272–323
woven fabrics, 73
yardstick, 27
zigzag plate and foot, 12
zipper foot, 13