USING A MOBILE PHONE IN EUROPE
Map: Transportation Costs in Greece
Map: Public Transportation in Greece
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for purchases, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To round out your knowledge, check out “Resources from Rick Steves.” For more information on these topics, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-tips.
The Greek national tourist office has a helpful website with lots of information and downloadable maps and brochures (www.visitgreece.gr). Other good websites include www.culture.gr (Greek Ministry of Culture, with information on major archaeological sites and museums), www.thisisathens.org (City of Athens Convention and Visitors Bureau), and www.athensguide.com (guide to Athens by travel writer Matt Barrett).
In Greece, tourist offices are often marked EOT (for the Greek phrase “Greek Tourism Organization”). Unfortunately, budget cuts have forced many towns to close their TIs. The offices that are still open can usually give you a free map, a few local tips, and some assistance with bus connections. In general, though, your hotelier may end up being your best source of information.
Emergency and Medical Help: In Greece, dial 112 for English-speaking help for any emergency or 171 or 1571 for the Tourist Police.
The Tourist Police serves as a contact point between tourists and other branches of the police and is also responsible for handling problems such as disputes with hotels, restaurants, and other tourist services (available 24 hours daily; Athens office located south of the Acropolis in Koukaki at Veikou 43, office tel. 210-920-0724).
If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Borders: If you enter Greece from most European countries (those that are part of Europe’s open-borders Schengen Agreement), you won’t need to go through customs. But if you arrive on a direct flight from the US, or from the neighboring countries of Turkey, Macedonia, Albania, or Bulgaria (which aren’t part of the EU pact), you’ll have to clear customs.
Time Zones: Greece, which is one hour ahead of most of continental Europe, is generally seven/ten hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, try www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Most shops catering to tourists are open long hours daily. In Athens stores are generally open weekdays from 9:00 to 20:00. Afternoon breaks are common, and some places close early a few nights a week.
Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer, and there’s no rush hour. Friday and Saturday evenings are lively; Sunday evenings are quiet.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement locally. Low-cost hair dryers and other small appliances are sold at Public stores (ask your hotelier for the closest branch; there’s a hard-to-miss location on Syntagma Square).
Bathroom Etiquette: There’s a reason every bathroom in Greece has a small wastebasket next to the toilet—bad plumbing. Don’t flush toilet paper; use the wastebasket instead.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts to youths (up to age 18), students or teachers (with proper identification cards, www.isic.org), families, seniors (loosely defined as retirees or those willing to call themselves seniors), and groups of 10 or more. Always ask. Some discounts are available only for EU citizens.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites. You can also paste text or the URL of a foreign website into the translation window at Translate.google.com. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your smartphone’s camera.
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for a cash machine (ATM) at the airport and load up on local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• Withdraw large amounts at each transaction (to limit fees) and keep your cash safe in a money belt.
• Pay for most items with cash.
• Pay for larger purchases with a credit card with low (or no) international fees.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe, day-to-day spending is generally more cash-based than in the US, and cash is highly preferable in Greece. I find cash is the easiest—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, tips, and local guides. Some businesses (especially smaller ones, such as B&Bs and mom-and-pop cafés and shops) may charge you extra for using a credit card—or might not accept credit cards at all. Having cash on hand helps you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work.
I use my credit card to book and pay for hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, and to cover major expenses (such as car rentals or plane tickets). It can also be smart to use plastic near the end of your trip, to avoid another visit to the ATM.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Use this to pay for larger items (at hotels, larger shops and restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on).
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost, demagnetized, eaten by a temperamental machine, or simply doesn’t work.
US Dollars: I carry $100-200 US as a backup. While you won’t use it for day-to-day purchases, American cash in your money belt comes in handy for emergencies, such as if your ATM card stops working.
What NOT to Bring: Resist the urge to buy euros before your trip or you’ll pay the price in bad stateside exchange rates. Wait until you arrive to withdraw money. I’ve yet to see a European airport that didn’t have plenty of ATMs.
Use this pretrip checklist.
Know your cards. Debit cards from any major US bank will work in any standard European bank’s ATM (ideally, use a debit card with a Visa or MasterCard logo). As for credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal, American Express is less common, and Discover is unknown in Europe.
Most credit and debit cards have chips that authenticate and secure transactions. Europeans insert their chip cards into the payment machine slot, then enter a PIN. With a US card, you provide a signature instead of a PIN number to verify your identity.
Any American card, whether with a chip or an old-fashioned magnetic stripe, will work at Europe’s hotels, restaurants, and shops. For self-service payment machines, you may need a PIN number. I’ve been inconvenienced a few times by self-service payment machines in Europe that wouldn’t accept my card, but it’s never caused me serious trouble.
If you’re concerned, ask if your bank offers a true chip-and-PIN card. Cards with low fees and chip-and-PIN technology include those from Andrews Federal Credit Union (www.andrewsfcu.org) and the State Department Federal Credit Union (www.sdfcu.org).
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one and allow time to receive the information by mail.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts; you’re unlikely to have access to your savings account.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent), a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (1 percent), and—for debit cards—a $2-5 transaction fee each time you use a foreign ATM (some US banks partner with European banks, allowing you to use those ATMs with no fees—ask).
If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new debit or credit card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low-to-no international transaction fees.
European cash machines have English-language instructions and work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate.
In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Greece, they are surprisingly labeled ATM in the Greek alphabet. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank. Ideally use it during the bank’s opening hours; if your card is munched by the machine, you can go inside for help.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later—your bank’s network may be temporarily down.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure than a bank ATM, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see below).
Avoid exchanging money in Europe; it’s a big rip-off. In a pinch you can always find exchange desks at major train stations or airports—convenient but with crummy rates. Banks in some countries may not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
European cards use chip-and-PIN technology, while most cards issued in the US use a chip-and-signature system. But most European card readers can automatically generate a receipt for you to sign, just as you would at home. If a cashier is present, you should have no problems. Some card readers will instead prompt you to enter your PIN (so it’s important to know the code for each of your cards).
At self-service payment machines (transit-ticket kiosks, parking, etc.), results are mixed, as US chip-and-signature cards aren’t configured for unattended transactions. If your card won’t work, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash.
Drivers Beware: Be aware of potential problems using a credit card to fill up at an unattended gas station, enter a parking garage, or exit a toll road. Carry cash and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. When approaching a toll plaza, use the “cash” lane.
Some European merchants and hoteliers cheerfully charge you for converting your purchase price into dollars. If it’s offered, refuse this “service” (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC). You’ll pay extra for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. Some ATMs also offer DCC, often in confusing or misleading terms. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency.
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while the fraudulent use is investigated by your bank.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In Greece, to make a collect call to the US, dial 00-800-1311. Press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Greece isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At Greek restaurants that have waitstaff, locals generally round up their bill after a good meal (usually about 10 percent). For more on tipping in restaurants, see “Eating,” later.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.50, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Greek souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 24 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €120 (about $145) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.) Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount on souvenirs.
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a “Tax-Free Shopping Cheque.” You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in to allow time to find the customs office—and to stand in line. Some customs desks are positioned before airport security; confirm the location before going through security.
It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new Greek sandals, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. Many merchants work with a service that has offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings. These services, which extract their own fee (usually around 4 percent), can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). Other refund services may require you to mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring home one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Greece’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, and local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps. Maps with even more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device. Be aware that pulling up maps or looking up turn-by-turn walking directions on the fly requires an Internet connection: To use this feature, it’s smart to get an international data plan (see here). With Google Maps or City Maps 2Go, it’s possible to download a map while online, then go offline and navigate without incurring data-roaming charges, though you can’t search for an address or get real-time walking directions. A handful of other apps—including Apple Maps, OffMaps, and Navfree—also allow you to use maps offline.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in Athens, see the “Athens at a Glance” sidebar in the Sights in Athens chapter. Because these times can vary, it’s best to confirm the latest by checking with the TI or your hotelier.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check online for possible museum closures during your trip.
Most of Greece’s ancient sites and archaeological museums are operated by the government. In general, hours at sights are longer during peak season (April-October) and on weekends, and shorter on weekdays and in the off-season. The timing of this seasonal switch can be unannounced and differs between sights. Year-round, if things are slow, places may close early with no advance notice. It’s smart to arrive well in advance of listed closing times and to hit your must-see sights in the morning, especially if traveling outside of summer.
The Ministry of Greek Culture website (www.culture.gr) purports to list the latest hours for virtually all of the major sights—including Athens’ Acropolis, Ancient Agora, Acropolis Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum, plus the attractions at Delphi, Olympia, Epidavros, and Mycenae—but you’ll get more reliable, up-to-date information by asking your hotelier or calling the sights directly.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
All museums and archaeological sites run by the Ministry of Greek Culture, including the Acropolis, are free on national holidays and every first Sunday from November through March. Children under 18 always get in free to these sights.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit. The Acropolis is much more entertaining if you’ve polished up on Doric architecture the night before.
Most of Greece’s artifacts have been plunked into glass cases labeled with little more than title and date. Sights run by the Greek Ministry of Culture provide a free information pamphlet, though usually only by request.
More than most destinations in Europe, Greece demands (and rewards) any effort you make to really understand its treasures. If you read up on Greek history and art, the artifacts come to life; without this background, visiting Greece’s museums can quickly become an unforgiving slog past stiff statues and endless ceramic vases.
It can also help to put your imagination into overdrive. As you stroll Athens’ Ancient Agora, mentally clad the other tourists in robes. Approach the temple at Delphi as if you were about to learn your fate from an oracle; enter the stadium at Olympia ready to race its length in front of a huge crowd. At museums, imagine being the archaeologist who unearthed the intact glass vessels, intricate golden necklaces, and vases inscribed with the faces of people who lived four millennia ago.
Many major ancient sites have both an archaeological site and a museum for the artifacts and models. You can choose between visiting the museum first (to mentally reconstruct the ruins before seeing them) or the site first (to get the lay of the ancient land before seeing the items found there). In most cases, I prefer to see the site first, then the museum. However, crowds and weather can also help determine your plan. If it’s a blistering hot afternoon, tour the air-conditioned museum first, then hit the ruins in the cool of evening (if opening hours allow). Or, if rain clouds are on the horizon, do the archaeological site first, then duck into the museum when the rain hits.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive less than 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Allow extra time for these lines in your planning. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Etiquette and Photography at Ancient Sites: Archaeological sites are meticulously monitored; you’re sure to hear the tweets of many whistles aimed at visitors who’ve crossed a barrier or climbed on a ruin.
If an attraction’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether. The Greeks take their ancient artifacts very seriously. Posing with ancient statues—or even standing next to them for a photo—is strictly forbidden.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. An extra fee, which may not be optional, might be assessed for these shows.
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides and Apps: In Greece, audioguides are rare, but good guidebooks are available. And I’ve produced free downloadable audio tours for my Athens City Walk, the Acropolis, Ancient Agora, and National Archaeological Museum; look for the 
symbol in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
You can usually hire a live local guide at the entrance to major ancient sites or museums at a reasonable cost (prices are soft and negotiable; save money by splitting the guide fee with other travelers). I list recommended guides in the “Helpful Hints” section of many chapters. Two notable exceptions are Olympia, where guides are sparse, and the Acropolis, where the loitering guides are generally of poor quality.
Services: Important sights may have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (usually a handy place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a city, I choose places in my favorite neighborhoods. My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all the comforts. In this book, the price for a double room ranges from about $50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to $500 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustering around $95-145. Athens is a bit more expensive, while the Peloponnese is cheaper. Greek islands (especially Mykonos and Santorini) have the highest rates by far.
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and a stable staff, and run with a respect for Greek traditions. I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service. Most places I recommend fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times (roughly Easter through October). See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Greece; for tips on making reservations, see the sidebar, later.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling hotels a few days to a week before their arrival. If you anticipate crowds (worst on weekdays at business destinations and weekends at tourist locales) on the day you want to check in, call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. Some apps—such as HotelTonight.com—specialize in last-minute rooms, often at business-class hotels in big cities. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in a standard double room with a private toilet and shower in high season, include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through a booking site, which extracts a commission). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. Taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a dollar or two per person, per night). And keep in mind that some hotels in Greece, especially smaller places, may require payment in cash.
Room rates are especially volatile at larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Prices can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. Of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels. You can do this either by comparing prices on Hotels.com or Booking.com, or by checking the hotels’ own websites. To get the best deal, contact my family-run hotels directly by phone or email. When you go direct, the owner avoids the 20 percent commission, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or free breakfast if it’s not already included (see sidebar). If you prefer to book online or are considering a hotel chain, it’s to your advantage to use the hotel’s website.
Some hotels offer a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. To cut costs further, try asking for a cheaper room (for example, with a shared bathroom or no window) or offer to skip breakfast (if included).
Additionally, some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify, you must book direct (that is, not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
You’ll usually see the word “hotel,” but you might also see the traditional Greek word Xenonas (ΞΕΝΩΝΑΣ/Ξενώνασ). In some places, especially Nafplio, small hotels are called pensions.
A “twin” room has two single beds; a “double” has one double bed. If you’ll take either, let the hotel know, or you might be needlessly turned away. Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
An “en suite” room has a bathroom (toilet and shower/tub) attached to the room; a room with a “private bathroom” can mean that the bathroom is all yours, but it’s across the hall. If you want your own bathroom inside the room, request “en suite.” If money’s tight, ask about a room with a shared bathroom. You’ll almost always have a sink in your room, and as more rooms go en suite, the hallway bathroom is shared with fewer guests. Most bathrooms come with just a shower (if you want a bathtub, ask for one when you reserve).
Arrival and Check-In: Hotel elevators are becoming more common, though some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up). Elevators are typically very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up without you.
When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. The EU requires that hotels collect your name, nationality, and ID number. Relax. Americans are notorious for making this chore more difficult than it needs to be.
If you suspect that night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a noisy café), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: More pillows and blankets are usually in the closet or available on request. Towels and linens aren’t always replaced every day. Hang your towel up to dry.
All over Greece, including Athens, most bathrooms have ancient plumbing that clogs easily. You may see signs requesting that you discard toilet paper in the bathroom wastebasket. This may seem unusual, but it keeps the sewer system working and prevents you from getting cozy with your hotel janitor.
Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal doesn’t always make it to the rooms; sometimes it’s only available in the lobby). There’s often a guest computer with Internet access in the lobby. Simpler places rarely have a room phone, but often have free Wi-Fi.
If visiting areas with mosquitoes (such as Kardamyli and Monemvasia), avoid opening your windows, especially at night. If your hotel lacks air-conditioning, request a fan. Many hotels furnish a small plug-in bulb that helps keep the bloodsuckers at bay. If not already plugged into the electric socket, it may be on a table or nightstand. Some may have a separate scented packet that you have to unwrap and insert into the device.
Hotels in Greece are required by law to be nonsmoking, but enforcement is spotty. Hoteliers are obsessive about eliminating any odors, but if your room smells like the Marlboro man slept there, ask to be moved.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
Breakfast and Meals: A satisfying Greek breakfast with cheese, ham, yogurt, fresh bread, honey, jam, fruit, juice, and coffee or tea is standard and is sometimes included in hotel prices. More expensive hotels also tend to serve eggs and cereal.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in. That way you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Rooms in private homes (similar to B&Bs, called dhomatia/ ΔΩΜΑΤΙΑ/δωματια in Greece) offer double the cultural intimacy for a good deal less than most hotel rooms. You’ll usually have air-conditioning, your own bathroom, and a minifridge, but expect simple, stripped-down rooms, and little or nothing in the way of a public lounge. Hosts generally speak English and are interesting conversationalists. Your stay probably won’t include breakfast, but you’ll have access to a kitchen.
Local TIs may have lists of dhomatia and can book a room for you, but you’ll save money by booking directly with the dhomatia listed in this book.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum-night stay, and compared to hotels, rentals usually have less-flexible cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no hotel reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Aggregator websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. If you prefer to work from a curated list of accommodations, consider using a rental agency such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com. Agency-represented apartments typically cost more, but this method often offers more help and safeguards than booking direct.
Before you commit, be clear on the details, location, and amenities. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using the Street View feature on Google Maps. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well-connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? There are typically two kinds of hosts: those who want minimal interaction with their guests, and hosts who are friendly and may want to interact with you. Read the promotional text and online reviews to help shape your decision.
Apartments and Rental Houses: If you’re staying somewhere for four nights or longer, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment or house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry machines and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in. If you make good use of the kitchen (and Europe’s great produce markets), you’ll save on your meal budget.
Private and Shared Rooms: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. Some places allow you to book for a single night; if staying for several nights, you can buy groceries just as you would in a rental house. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some may be interested in getting to know the travelers who come through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer, and who can live with the idea of having strangers in their home (don’t assume that where you live is not interesting to Europeans). A good place to start is HomeExchange. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip. It’s easiest and safest to pay through the site where you found the listing. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline to avoid fees; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
A hostel provides cheap dorm beds where you sleep alongside strangers for about $25 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
Greek food is simple...and simply delicious. Unlike the French or the Italians, who are forever experimenting to perfect an intricate cuisine, the Greeks found an easy formula and stick with it—and it rarely misses. The four Greek food groups are olives (and olive oil), salty feta cheese, ripe tomatoes, and crispy phyllo dough. Virtually every dish you’ll have here is built on a foundation of these four tasty building blocks.
When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest the average price of a typical main course—but not necessarily a complete meal. Sticking to souvlaki will save you plenty over ordering meat and fish dishes. Obviously, expensive items (steak, seafood, etc.), fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate a place’s personality:
Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling pies and sandwiches.
Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a good taste of local cuisine on a budget.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, service, and cuisine. These are ideal for a memorable meal that doesn’t break the bank. This category often includes affordable “destination” or “foodie” restaurants. And splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, pricey and intricate cuisine, and an expansive (and expensive) wine list.
To assign price ranges for restaurants in Greece, these price points were my rule of thumb: $$$$—most salads and starters over €8, main dishes over €15; $$$—most salads and starters €5-8, main dishes €10-15; $$—most salads and starters under €5, main dishes under €10; $—meals under €5. I haven’t categorized places where you might snack, graze, or assemble a picnic: supermarkets, delis, ice cream stands, cafés or bars specializing in drinks, chocolate shops, and so on.
Greeks like to eat late: Dine at 18:00, and you’ll be surrounded by other tourists; stick around until 21:00, and they’ll all have been replaced by locals. Especially in cities, popular restaurants tend to stay open until midnight or even past that.
Restaurant hours can be informal. While the opening times I’ve listed are reasonably reliable, closing times often depend on how busy a place is—if you arrive too late on a slow day, you may find the place shuttered.
Smoking is banned in enclosed spaces, such as restaurants and bars. As a result, many smokers occupy outdoor tables—often that’s where you’ll want to sit too. Despite the law, many bars and some restaurants allow smoking inside, too.
In addition to the traditional Greek restaurant (estiatorio), you’ll also encounter these places:
Taverna: Common, rustic neighborhood restaurant with a smaller menu, slinging Greek favorites. These tend to be cheaper, to cater to locals’ budgets.
Mezedopolio: Eatery specializing in small plates/appetizers/mezedes.
Ouzerie: Bar that makes ouzo, often selling high-quality mezedes—or even meals—to go along with it.
If you’re looking for fast food, in addition to the usual international chains (McDonald’s and Starbucks), there are some Greek versions. Grigoris Coffee Right is the local version of Starbucks, and Goody’s is the Greek take on McDonald’s. Everest is open 24/7, selling sandwiches and savory pies to go.
When you sit down at a restaurant, you’ll likely be asked if you want a basket of (generally fresh, good) bread, often with your napkins and flatware tucked inside. You’ll pay a bread and cover charge of about €0.50-1 (usually noted clearly on the menu).
Menus are usually written in both Greek and English. Many tavernas will have a display case showing what they’ve been cooking for the day, and it’s perfectly acceptable to ask for a look and point to the dish you want. This is a good way to make some friends, sample a variety of dishes, get what you want (or at least know what you’re getting), and have a truly memorable meal. Be brave.
Greece has many local specialties. At least once, seek out and eat or drink the notorious “gross” specialties: ouzo, eggplant, fish eggs, octopus, and so on. You’ve heard references to them all your life—now’s your chance to actually experience what everyone’s talking about. Kali orexi! (Bon appétit!)
A small dessert (that you didn’t order) may appear at the end of your restaurant meal—often a tiny pastry, candied fruit, or shot of grappa. It’s included in the price of your meal. You are welcome to linger as late as you want—don’t feel pressured to eat quickly and turn over the table.
Tipping: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At Greek restaurants that have waitstaff, service is generally included, although it’s common to round up the bill after a good meal (about 10 percent; so, for an €18.50 meal, pay €20). It’s considered bad form to leave a single euro, though; if a bill is €10, leave a €2 tip.
Although the Greeks don’t like to admit it, their cuisine has a lot in common with Turkish food, including many of the same dishes. (This is partly because they share a similar climate, and partly because Greece was part of the Ottoman Empire for nearly 400 years.) Some names—such as moussaka—come directly from Turkish. You’ll find traces of Italian influences as well, such as pastitsio, the “Greek lasagna.”
My favorite fast, cheap, and filling Greek snack is souvlaki pita, a tasty shish kebab wrapped in flat bread. Souvlaki stands are all over Greece (see sidebar on here). On the islands, eat fresh seafood. Don’t miss the creamy yogurt with honey. Feta cheese salads and flaky nut-and-honey baklava are two other tasty treats. Dunk your bread into tzatziki (TZAHT-zee-kee), the ubiquitous and refreshing cucumber-and-yogurt dip. (Tourists often call it tzitziki, which sounds like the Greek word for crickets—a mispronunciation which endlessly amuses local waiters.)
In the early 20th century, chef Nikolaos Tselementes learned international cooking techniques and used them to revolutionize Greek cuisine—codifying many recipes you’ll still find all over the country. It was Tselementes who introduced non-Greek elements like béchamel sauce to local cooking, in beloved recipes such as moussaka and pastitsio. To this day, Greeks call a cookbook—and anyone who’s really adept at using it—a “Tselementes.”
Here are more flavors to seek out during your time in Greece.
As you’ll quickly gather when you pass endless tranquil olive groves on your drive through the countryside, olives are a major staple of Greek food—both the olives themselves and the oil they produce. Connoisseurs can distinguish as many varieties of olives as there are grapes for wine, but they fall into two general categories: those for eating and those for making oil.
Greeks are justifiably proud of their olive oil: Their country is the third-largest producer in the European Union, and they consume more olive oil per capita than any other Mediterranean nation—almost seven gallons per person a year. Locals say that the taste is shaped both by the variety and the terrain where the olives are grown. Olive oils from the Peloponnese, for example, are supposed to be robust with grassy or herbaceous overtones. Pay attention, and you’ll notice the differences as you travel. Common, edible Greek olives include the following:
Amfissa: Found in both black and green varieties, grown near Delphi. These are rounder and mellower than other varieties.
Halkithiki: Large, green olives from northern Greece, often stuffed with pimento, sun-dried tomato, feta cheese, or other delicacies.
Kalamata: Purple and almond-shaped, the best-known variety. These come from the southern Peloponnese and are cured in a red-wine vinegar brine.
Throubes: Black, wrinkled olives, usually from the island of Thassos, that stay on the tree until fully ripe. Dry-cured, they have an intense, salty taste and chewy texture.
Tsakistes: Green olives grown mainly in Attica (near Athens) that are cracked with a mallet or cut with a knife before being steeped in water and then brine. After curing, they are marinated in garlic and lemon wedges or herbs.
Feta: Protected by EU regulations, it’s made with sheep’s milk, although up to 30 percent of goat’s milk can be added (but never cow’s milk). Feta comes in many variations—some are soft, moist, and rather mild; others are sour, hard, and crumbly (it depends on how much goat milk is used, and how—and how long—it’s aged).
Graviera: A hard cheese usually made in Crete from sheep’s milk, it tastes sweet and nutty, almost like a fine Swiss cheese.
Kasseri: The most popular Greek cheese after feta, it’s a mild, yellow cheese made from either sheep’s or goat’s milk.
Flaky phyllo-dough pastries (pita, not to be confused with pita bread) are another staple of Greek cuisine. These can be ordered as a starter in a restaurant or purchased from a bakery for a tasty bite on the run. They can be made out of just about anything, but the most common are spanakopita (spinach), tiropita (cheese), kreatopita (beef or pork), meletzanitopita (eggplant), and bougatsa (with a sweet cream filling).
Mezedes (meh-ZEH-dehs), known internationally as meze, are a great way to sample several tasty Greek dishes. This “small plates” approach is common and easy—instead of ordering a starter and a main dish per person, get two or three starters and one main dish to split.
Almost anything in Greece can be served as a small-plate “starter” (including several items listed in other sections here—olives, cheeses, and main dishes), but these are most common:
Bekri meze: Literally “drunkard’s snack”—chunks of chicken, pork, or beef cooked slowly with wine, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, and olive oil.
Dolmathes: Stuffed grape (or cabbage) leaves filled with either meat or rice and served hot or cold.
Gigantes (also Gigantes plaki): “Giant” lima beans oven-baked until tender in a mix of tomato, peppers, dill, other herbs, and sometimes sausage or pork.
Greek salad (a.k.a. horiatiki, “village” salad): Ripe tomatoes chopped up just so, rich feta cheese (usually in a long, thick slab that you break apart), olives, and onions, all drenched with olive oil. You’ll find yourself eating this combination again and again—yet somehow, it never gets old. It’s sometimes topped with rusk (or “Cretan rusk”)—crunchy, dry croutons made of rustic barley bread.
Keftedes: Small meatballs, often seasoned with mint, onion, parsley, and sometimes ouzo.
Melitzanosalata: Cooked eggplant with the consistency of mashed potatoes, usually well-seasoned and delicious.
Pantzarosalata: Beet salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar.
Papoutsaki: Eggplant “slippers” filled with ground beef and cheese.
Roasted red peppers: Soft and flavorful, often drizzled with olive oil.
Saganaki: Cooked cheese, often breaded, sometimes grilled and sometimes fried, occasionally flambéed.
Soutzoukakia: Meatballs with spicy tomato sauce.
Taramosalata: Smoky, pink, fish-roe mixture with the consistency of mashed potatoes, used as a dip for bread or vegetables.
Tirokafteri: Feta cheese that’s been softened and mixed with white pepper to give it some kick, served either as a spread or stuffed inside roasted red peppers.
Tzatziki: A pungent and thick sauce of yogurt, cucumber, and garlic. It seems like a condiment but is often ordered as a starter, then eaten as a salad or used to complement other foods.
Summertime visitors might be disappointed not to find much soup on the menu (including avgolemono, the delicious egg, lemon, and rice soup). Soup is considered a winter dish and is almost impossible to find in warm weather. If available, Greek chicken soup (kotosoupa) is very tasty. Kremithosoupa is the Greek version of French onion soup, and kakavia or psarosoupa is a famous fish soup often compared to bouillabaisse.
Here are some popular meat and seafood dishes you’ll likely see.
Arnaki kleftiko: Slow-cooked lamb, usually wrapped in phyllo dough or parchment paper. Legend says it was created by bandits who needed to cook without the telltale signs of smoke or fire. (Baked fish, and other meats, may also be served kleftiko.)
Gyro: Literally “turn,” a gyro is not a type of meat but a way of preparing it—stacked on a metal skewer and vertically slow-roasted on a rotisserie, then shaved off in slices. In Greece it’s usually made from chicken or pork, and often served wrapped in a pita, making a handy to-go sandwich.
Moussaka: A classic casserole with layers of minced meat, eggplant, and potatoes and a topping of cheesy béchamel sauce or egg custard.
Pastitsio: A layered baked dish called the “Greek lasagna.” Ground meat is sandwiched between two layers of pasta with an egg-custard or béchamel topping.
Souvlaki: Pork or lamb cooked on a skewer, often wrapped in pita bread (and sometimes topped with fries); also can be served on a platter with rice.
Stifado: Beef stew with onions, tomatoes, and spices such as cinnamon and cloves. It was traditionally made with rabbit (kouneli).
Barbounia: Red mullet that is usually grilled or fried and is always expensive. These small fish are bony, but the flesh melts in your mouth.
Gavros: An appetizer similar to anchovies. Squeeze lemon luxuriously all over them, and eat everything but the wispy little tails.
Htapothi: Octopus, often marinated and grilled, then drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice.
Psari plaki: Fish baked in the oven with tomatoes and onions.
Baklava: Phyllo dough layered with nuts and honey.
Ekmek: A cake made of thin phyllo fibers soaked in honey, then topped with custard and a layer of whipped cream.
Karydopita: Honey-walnut cake made without flour.
Kataifi: Thin fibers of phyllo (like shredded wheat) layered with nuts and honey.
Loukoumades: The Greek doughnut, soaked in honey or sugar syrup.
Meli pita: Honey-cheese pie, traditionally served at Easter.
Wine: There are two basic types of Greek wines—retsina (resin-flavored, rarely served) and nonresinated wines.
Retsina wine, a post-WWII rotgut with a notorious resin flavor, has long been famous as the working man’s Greek wine. It makes you want to sling a patch over one eye and say, “Arghh.” The first glass is like drinking wood. The third glass is dangerous: It starts to taste good. If you drink any more, you’ll smell like it the entire next day. Why resin? Way back when, Greek winemakers used pine resin to seal the amphoras that held the wine, protecting the wine from the air. Discovering that they liked the taste, the winemakers began adding resin to the wine itself.
If pine sap is not your cup of tea, there are plenty of nonresinated wine options. With its new generation of winemakers (many of them trained abroad), Greece is receiving more recognition for its wines. More than 300 native varietals are now grown in Greece’s wine regions. About two-thirds of the wine produced in Greece is white. The best known are Savatiano (the most widely grown grape used for retsina and other wines), Assyrtiko (a crisp white mostly from Santorini), and Moschofilero (a dry white from the Peloponnese). Red wines include Agiorgitiko (a medium red also from the Peloponnese; one carries the name “Blood of Hercules”) and Xynomavro (an intense red from Naoussa in Macedonia). Greeks also grow cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, and other familiar varieties. And Santorini bottles the sweet, luxurious, expensive dessert wine called Vinsanto.
Here are a few wine terms that you may find useful: inos (οίνος—term for “wine” printed on bottles), krasi (spoken term for “wine”), ktima (winery or estate), inopolio (wine bar), lefko (white), erithro or kokkino (red), xiro (dry), agouro (young), me poli soma (full-bodied), epitrapezio (table wine), and O.P.A.P. (an indication of quality that tells you the wine came from one of Greece’s designated wine regions).
Beer: Greeks are proud of their few local brands, including Alpha, Fix, Vergina, and Mythos.
Spirits: Beyond wine and beer, consider special Greek spirits. Cloudy, anise-flavored ouzo, supposedly invented by monks on Mount Athos, is worth a try even if you don’t like the taste (black licorice). Similar to its Mediterranean cousins, French pastis and Turkish raki, ouzo turns from clear to milky white when you add ice or water (don’t drink it straight). Greeks drink it both as an aperitif and with food. I like to sip it slowly in the early evening while sharing several mezedes with my travel partner. Some of the best-selling brands are Ouzo 12, Plomari Ouzo, and Sans Rival Ouzo.
Even better is tsipouro. Similar to Italian grappa, this brandy is distilled from leftover grape skins; it is sometimes flavored with anise. Stronger and purer than ouzo, it’s best drunk with water on the rocks. Some of the best are Barbayanni, Tsilili, and Adolo.
Metaxa is to be savored after dinner. This rich, sweet, golden-colored liqueur has a brandy base blended with aged wine and a “secret” herbal mixture.
If you’re traveling on the Peloponnese, try Tentura, a regional liqueur flavored with cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and citrus. It packs a spicy kick.
Coffee: All over Greece, Starbucks-style coffeehouses have invaded Main Street. But, while most modern Greeks drink espresso, you can still seek out traditional Greek coffee (similar to Turkish coffee). This unfiltered brew is prepared in a small copper pot called a briki or an ibrik, and usually served with a glass of water and a chunk of candy called loukoumi. While most of the world calls this candy “Turkish delight,” locals boast that it was actually invented by Greek pastry chefs, then spread throughout the Ottoman Empire—so their name, “Greek delight,” is more fitting.
In summer, cafés are filled with Greeks sipping iced coffee drinks. Freddo cappuccino (iced cappuccino) is the drink of choice, with a thick, creamy layer of milk on top, whipped with a special blender. You can also usually find a frappé (iced Nescafé; order it black or white—with milk), freddo espresso (iced espresso, no milk), and freddo mokka.
When ordering coffee, the barista will usually ask how much sugar you want in it. (They may say, “How much sugar? Normal?”) You can order your coffee pikro/sketos (bitter/plain), metrio (semisweet—the default choice), or gliko (sweet).
Don’t ask for a “regular coffee,” as almost nobody will understand what you mean.
Water: Water is served in bottles. It’s very cheap (even in otherwise expensive areas) and rarely carbonated.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone—either your US phone or one you buy in Europe. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described next, and more details are at www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see www.ricksteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended Athens hotels as an example (tel. 210-324-9737).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (30 for Greece), and phone number.
To call the Athens hotel from home, dial 011-30-210-324-9737.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the Athens hotel from Turkey, dial 00-30-210-324-9737.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within Greece (from one Greek landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number.
To call the Athens hotel from Delphi, dial 210-324-9737.
Toll-Free Calls: International rates apply to US toll-free numbers dialed from Greece—they’re not free.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Iceland | 354 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353 / 44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. You can access the Internet, send texts, and even make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi, but some—especially expensive hotels—charge a fee. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or use it offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi, and to change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network just long enough for the task at hand. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually turning off data roaming or cellular data (either works) in your device’s Settings menu. Another way to make sure you’re not accidentally using data roaming is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), and then turn your Wi-Fi back on as needed.
It’s also a good idea to keep track of your data usage. On your device’s menu, look for “cellular data usage” or “mobile data” and reset the counter at the start of your trip.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, Viber, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost voice and video calls over Wi-Fi. With an app installed on your phone, tablet, or laptop, you can log on to a Wi-Fi network and contact friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some of these services you can call any mobile phone or landline worldwide for just pennies per minute.
Many of these apps also allow you to send messages over Wi-Fi to any other person using that app. Be aware that some apps, such as Apple’s iMessage, will use the cellular network if Wi-Fi isn’t available: To avoid this possibility, turn off the “Send as SMS” feature.
With a European SIM card, you get a European mobile number and access to cheaper rates than you’ll get through your US carrier. This option works well for those who want to make a lot of voice calls or needing faster connection speeds than their US carrier provides. Fit the SIM card into a cheap phone you buy in Europe (about $40 from phone shops anywhere), or swap out the SIM card in an “unlocked” US phone (check with your carrier about unlocking it).
SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and vending machines. Costing about $5-10, they usually include prepaid calling/messaging credit, with no contract and no commitment. Expect to pay $20-40 more for a SIM card with a gigabyte of data. If you travel with this card to other countries in the European Union, there may be extra roaming fees.
I like to buy SIM cards at a phone shop where there’s a clerk to help explain the options. I’ve used the Germanos (ΓΕΡΜΑΜΟΣ) electronics stores, whose staff speak English, to buy a SIM card and help me switch my US mobile phone to a Greek number. They’re all over Greece, including at the Athens airport. The Greek phone company is known by its initials: OTE. Certain brands—including Lebara and Lycamobile, both of which are available in multiple European countries—are reliable and especially economical. Ask the clerk to help you insert your SIM card, set it up, and show you how to use it. In some countries, you’ll be required to register the SIM card with your passport as an antiterrorism measure (which may mean you can’t use the phone for the first hour or two).
Find out how to check your credit balance. When you run out of credit, you can top it up at newsstands, tobacco shops, mobile-phone stores, or many other businesses (look for your SIM card’s logo in the window), or online.
It’s possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel (or the increasingly rare public phone), and check email or browse websites using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. You can use a prepaid international phone card (available at post offices, newsstands, street kiosks, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel. Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number.
You’ll see public pay phones in a few post offices and train stations. The phones generally come with multilingual instructions; most don’t take coins but instead require insertable phone cards (Telekarta, ΤΗΛΕΚΑΡΤΑ, sold at post offices, newsstands, etc.). With the exception of Great Britain, each European country has its own insertable phone card—so your Greek card won’t work in a Turkish phone.
Most hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at Internet cafés and public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a Web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov and search for “Know Before You Go.”
The Greek postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider a service such as DHL (www.dhl.com). Get stamps for postcards and letters at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some minimarts and card shops.
To connect the destinations in this book, you’ll either drive, take a bus or boat, or fly (train service is minimal).
For touring around the mainland, your best options are car or bus. A rental car allows you to come and go on your own schedule, and make a beeline between destinations. Outside of congested Athens, roads are uncrowded, and parking is often free. However, driving in Greece can be stressful, as Greek drivers tackle the roads with a kind of anything-goes, Wild West abandon. And it’s more expensive than the bus. But if you’re a confident driver, the convenience of driving in Greece trumps the hassles of bus transport.
Greece’s network of public buses is affordable and will get you most anywhere you want to go. Unfortunately, it’s not user-friendly. Particularly outside of Athens, the frequency can be sparse and schedules are hard to nail down. You’d need to allow plenty of time, expect delays, and pack lots of patience to visit all of my recommended destinations.
Greek buses are cheap, and the fleet is clean, modern, and air-conditioned, but the bus system can be frustrating. Athens has decent bus service to popular destinations such as Delphi, Nafplio, and the port town of Piraeus, but smaller destinations on the Peloponnese are connected by only one or two buses a day.
All buses are run by a central company (KTEL, or KTEΛ in Greek), but the local offices don’t cooperate with each other—each one sets its own schedules, and they often don’t coordinate well. Specific bus schedules can be very difficult to pin down, even for buses leaving from the town you’re in. (Forget about getting bus schedules for other Greek towns.) Local TIs, where they exist, are unlikely to have the information you need. Don’t hesitate to ask your hotelier for help—they’re used to it.
KTEL has no helpful website or information office for the entire Greek bus system, but there is a list of local phone numbers and websites at www.ktelbus.com (you’ll need to know the name of the province where you are traveling). The KTEL Athens site (www.ktelattikis.gr) is hard to navigate, but Matt Barrett’s website has schedules for long-distance buses from and to Athens (www.athensguide.com).
Particularly on the Peloponnese, where your journeys likely will require a transfer (or multiple transfers), you frequently won’t be able to get the information for the full route from the bus station at your starting point. For example, to go from Nafplio to Monemvasia, you’ll change at Tripoli, then Sparta. The Nafplio bus station can give you details for the leg to Tripoli, but can’t tell you anything about the rest of the journey.
Before you get on a bus, ask the ticket seller and the conductor explicitly if there are transfers—they might not volunteer these details otherwise. Then pay attention (and maybe even follow the route on a map) to be sure you don’t miss your change.
Greece has been a great seafaring nation since the days of Odysseus. Today the country’s islands are connected to Athens’ port (Piraeus, see the Athens Connections chapter for details) and to one another by a variety of ferries, ranging from hulking, slow-moving car ferries to sleek, speedy catamarans. While the decentralized ferry system isn’t as straightforward or efficient as many travelers would like it to be, it’s still fairly fast and easy to get around by boat in Greece.
Buying Tickets: In peak season (especially July-Aug), some popular connections—such as Piraeus-Hydra—can sell out early; book at least a week in advance. Advance tickets also make sense if you’ll be setting sail soon after your arrival in Greece. Outside of peak season, it’s generally safe to purchase your ticket a day or two before your crossing. Buying from a travel agency can be the easiest way to understand your options, and costs no more than buying online, but beware that some agencies may try to upsell you. Ferries are comfortable; there’s no need to spring for business-class seats.
Greek ferry services are operated by multiple companies without a central information service. Good websites for researching connections include www.danae.gr/ferries-Greece.asp, www.greekferries.gr, and www.gtp.gr. Some ferry companies post only their current schedule—if you’re looking online in January, you may not find sailing times for June. If you buy tickets online, you’ll need to convert your reservation into an actual ticket. Some ferry companies let you do this online through Web check-in (they’ll send you an eticket). Otherwise, you’ll need to go to a ticket office or travel agency before the boat trip to pick up a paper ticket (you’ll need your passport).
Before you buy, make sure you’re clear on the ferry company’s refund and exchange policies. Since schedules can flex with demand, confirm your sailing time a day ahead.
Possible Delays or Cancellations: Smaller high-speed ferries (such as the Hellenic Seaways’ “Flying Cat” and SeaJet’s SuperJet or SeaJet2) can be affected by high winds and other inclement weather. Larger ferries, such as the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed, SeaJet Champion Jet, and the Blue Star ferries are slower, more stable, and less likely to be canceled. In general, cancellations are rare but possible in summer, and more common off-season. If a sailing is canceled, the ferry company will contact you to rebook (for this reason, it’s essential to provide a telephone number when you book). Usually you can go later that same day, but it’s possible (though rare) to get stranded overnight. Even if the sea is rough, the ships may still run—but the ride can be very rocky. If you’re prone to seasickness, be prepared.
Boarding the Ferry: If a place has several ports (such as Mykonos), make sure you know which port your boat leaves from. While ferry companies tell passengers to be at the dock 30 minutes before the boat leaves, most locals amble over to the dock about 10 minutes ahead. The sole advantage to turning up early is the chance to grab a better seat, which only makes a difference if your ferry has open seating, such as the Blue Star ferries (although even if there are assigned seats, they’re often ignored). Don’t be surprised if boats aren’t on time—soak up some sun at the dock while you wait.
On the Ferry: Greece’s ferries are very relaxing and can be a lot cheaper than flying, though they take longer. On big, slow-moving car ferries, you can sit outside and watch the islands slide by—but on the fast boats you’ll be sitting inside, peering through saltwater-spattered windows.
Bigger ferries move slowly but can run in almost any weather. While the number of cars allowed onboard is limited, they can accommodate about 1,000-2,000 walk-on passengers, and tend to cost less. The smallest, fastest ferries are typically catamarans carrying only about 300-400 passengers, so they are more likely to sell out. While small boats are time-efficient, they have to slow down (or sometimes can’t run at all) in bad weather. On some islands, such as Mykonos, bigger ferries arrive at a different point (usually farther from the main town) than the smaller boats (which may drop you right in the town center).
You may be able to stow your luggage on a rack on the boarding level of your boat; otherwise you’ll haul it up several flights of stairs to the passenger decks. Ferries of all sizes typically are equipped with WCs and charging outlets; many offer Wi-Fi (usually for a fee and with spotty service). You can buy food and drinks on most boats. It’s not too expensive, but it’s usually not top quality, either. Bring your own snacks or a picnic instead.
If you’re renting a car in Greece, bring your driver’s license. You’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your driver’s license (sold at your local AAA office for $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com). While that’s the letter of the law, I generally rent cars without having this permit. How this is enforced varies from country to country: Get advice from your car-rental company.
Rental companies require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 or older. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. Consider several companies to compare rates.
Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. For a friendly local car-rental company in Athens, consider Swift/Escape (see here; www.greektravel.com/swift). It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper www.autoeurope.eu), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal—but because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Always read the fine print or query the agent carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally cheaper than an automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance; be aware that these cars are usually larger models (not as maneuverable on narrow winding roads). Because of the size of Greek roads (and Greek parking spaces), it’s a good idea to rent a small vehicle.
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, leasing can save you money on insurance and taxes. Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Athens and dropping in Istanbul—while efficient, can be expensive if the company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border.
As a rule, always tell your car-rental company up front exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain types of cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, such as Turkey, where you might need to present proof of insurance
Picking Up Your Car: Compare pickup costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options. Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. Returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
When you pick up the rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. In Greece, your rental car is likely to come pre-scratched and dented for you (which is actually a plus, in that you’re unlikely to get hassled for tiny dings in the vicinity of pre-existing ones). Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500), costs $15-30 a day (figure roughly 30-40 percent extra) and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months. Car leases must be arranged from the US. One of many companies offering affordable lease packages is Auto Europe.
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Device: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigation in Europe, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic updates, you’ll generally need Internet access. And driving all day while online can be very expensive. Helpful exceptions are Google Maps, Here WeGo, and Navmii, which provide turn-by-turn voice directions and recalibrate even when they’re offline.
Download your map before you head out—it’s smart to select a large region. Then turn off your cellular connection so you’re not charged for data roaming. Call up the map, enter your destination, and you’re on your way. View maps in standard view (not satellite view) to limit data demands.
GPS Devices: If you prefer the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. Note that the unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off.
A less-expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be aware that you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip.
Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in when my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a European gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop (the Road Editions maps are tops).
Statistically, Greece is one of the most dangerous European countries to drive in. Traffic regulations that are severely enforced back home are treated as mere suggestions here. Even at major intersections in large towns, you might not see stop signs or traffic lights; drivers simply help each other figure out who goes next. And yet, like so many seemingly chaotic things in Greece, somehow it works quite smoothly. Still...drive defensively. Greeks won’t hesitate to pass you, if they feel you’re going too slowly.
Road Rules: The speed limit, almost never posted, can be hard to ascertain on backcountry roads. Generally, speed limits in Greece are as follows: city—50 km/hour; open roads—90 km/hour; divided highways—110 km/hour, superhighways—130 km/hour. Making matters even more confusing, half of all Greek drivers seem to go double the speed limit, while the others go half the limit. On country roads and highways, the lanes are often a car-and-a-half wide, with wide shoulders, so passing is common—even when there’s oncoming traffic in the other lane. Do as Greek drivers do on two-lane roads with wide shoulders—straddle the shoulder if someone wants to pass you.
Don’t drink and drive: The legal alcohol limit is lower in Greece than in the US. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid using a mobile phone without a hands-free headset. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Road Signs: Because road numbers can be confusing and inconsistent, navigate by city names. Know the names of major cities en route to your destination. Often the signs will point only to the next major town, even if your final destination is a big city. Almost all road signs are in Greek and in English, but you should also know the name of your destination using the Greek alphabet—road sign transliteration can be confusing. Most Greek town names can be spelled a number of different ways in the Latin alphabet—don’t be too worried about exact spelling, especially at the ends of town names.
Tolls: Special highways called Ethniki Odos (National Road) have tolls, which vary and usually must be paid in cash. This includes the road between Athens and the Peloponnese and part of the stretch between Athens and Delphi.
Fuel: Gasoline (venzini, βενζίνη) prices are around $6.50 a gallon for regular unleaded—labeled 95, less for diesel, which is around $5 per gallon (ntizel, ντίζελ). Self-service gas stations are rare. Tell the attendant how much you want to spend and use cash. He’s just there to pump gas, so don’t expect him to wash your windshield or check your tires.
Parking and Safety: Choose parking places carefully. You’ll rarely pay for parking, and parking laws are enforced only sporadically. If you’re not certain, ask at your hotel (or ask another local) whether your space is legit. Keep your valuables in your hotel room, or, if you’re between destinations, covered in your trunk. Leave nothing worth stealing in the car, especially overnight. If your car’s a hatchback, take the trunk cover off at night so thieves can look in without breaking in. Try to make your car look locally owned by hiding the “tourist-owned” rental-company decals and putting a local newspaper in your front or back window. While you should avoid parking lots with twinkly asphalt, thieves break car windows anywhere, even at stoplights.
Drive carefully. If you’re involved in an accident, expect a monumental headache—you will be blamed. Small towns come with speed traps.
Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, couples can travel short distances by cab for little more than two bus or subway tickets. Taxis can be your best option for getting to the airport for an early morning flight or to connect two far-flung destinations. If you like ride-booking services like Uber, these apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: You request a car on your mobile device (connected to Wi-Fi or a data plan), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. For more about taxis in Athens, see here.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is Kayak.com. An alternative is Google Flights, which has an easy-to-use system to track prices. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try Skyscanner.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can usually be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying Within Europe: If you’re considering a drive or bus ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines include EasyJet and Ryanair. For flights within mainland Greece and to the Greek islands, the country’s main carriers are Olympic (www.olympicair.com), Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com), Astra Airlines (www.astra-airlines.gr), and Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr). But be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book.
These days you can also fly within Europe on major airlines affordably—and without all the aggressive restrictions—for around $100 a flight.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. It’s also important to charge your electronic devices before you board because security checks may require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Begin your trip at www.ricksteves.com: My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, photos, and radio interviews organized by country; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; monthly travel news dispatches; a video library of my travel talks; my travel blog; and my latest guidebook updates (www.ricksteves.com/update).
Our Travel Forum is an immense yet well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chime in when they can be helpful (www.ricksteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers travel bags and accessories that I’ve designed specifically to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, other accessories, and a wide selection of guidebooks and planning maps (www.ricksteves.com/shop).
Choosing the right rail pass for your trip—amid hundreds of options—can drive you nutty. Our website will help you find the perfect fit for your itinerary and your budget: We offer easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (www.ricksteves.com/rail).
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries and have over 900 departures annually reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. We offer a 14-day tour of Athens and the Heart of Greece. You’ll enjoy great guides, a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers), and plenty of room to spread out in a big, comfy bus when touring between towns. You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our Tour Catalog, visit www.ricksteves.com/tours or call us at 425/608-4217.
Books: Rick Steves Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks, city guidebooks (Rome, Florence, Paris, London, etc.), Snapshot guidebooks (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket guidebooks (full-color little books on big cities, including Athens), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed country guides in a full-color, easy-to-scan format), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks.
My phrase books—for Italian, French, German, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers); Mediterranean Cruise Ports and Northern European Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port); and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with tips for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes, and we’re working on new shows every year. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv.
Travel Talks on Video: You can raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes (including my talks on travel skills, packing smart, European art for travelers, travel as a political act, and individual talks covering most European countries), see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US, and you can also listen to it as a podcast on iTunes, iHeartRadio, Stitcher, Tune In, and other platforms. A complete archive of programs (over 400 in all) is available at www.soundcloud.com/rick-steves.
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve also produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe, including sights in Athens. My audio tours and other audio content are available for free through my Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized into handy geographic playlists. For more on my app, see here.