Península de Nicoya
Northern Peninsula
Playas del Coco
Playa Hermosa
Playa Ocotal
Bahía Potrero
Playa Grande
Playa Tamarindo
Playas Avellanas & Negra
Playa Junquillal
Santa Cruz
Central Peninsula
Nicoya
Parque Nacional Barra Honda
Nosara Area
Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional
Playa Sámara
Playa Carrillo
Islita Area
Playas San Miguel & Coyote
Southern Peninsula
Mal País & Santa Teresa
Cabuya
Montezuma
Playas Pochote & Tambor
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú
Paquera
Islands near Bahía Gigante
Playa Naranjo
Undiscovered Nicoya
Surfing the Peninsula
Península de Nicoya
Why Go?
Maybe you’ve come to the Península de Nicoya to sample the sapphire waters that peel left and right, curling into perfect barrels up and down the coast. Or perhaps you just want to hunker down on a pristine patch of sand and soak up some sun. By day, you might ramble down rugged roads, fording rivers and navigating ridges with massive coastal views. By night, you can spy on nesting sea turtles or take a midnight dip in the luxuriant Pacific. In between adventures, you’ll find no shortage of boutique bunks, tasty kitchens and indulgent spas to shelter and nourish body and soul. Whether you come for the thrills or just to chill, the Nicoya peninsula delivers. You’ll find that the days (or weeks, or months) drift away on ocean breezes, disappearing all too quickly.
When to Go
A Accommodation rates are lower from May to November. Prices rise significantly during holiday weeks (Christmas, New Year and Easter).
A Peak rainfalls through September and October mean the peninsula is at its most lush; the air isn’t nearly as dusty, rivers swell, whales are migrating and prices are cheap.
Most Beautiful Beaches
Best Places to Stay
Península de Nicoya Highlights
1 Playas del Coco Diving down deep to spy on sea turtles, manta rays and bull sharks.
2 Nosara Catching morning swells and relishing afternoon asanas.
3 Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional Marveling at Mother Nature’s ways during arribada, the mass arrival of nesting olive ridley turtles.
4 Playa Carrillo Sitting beneath the palms and watching a spectacular sunset.
5 LocosCocos Devouring delectable ceviche and ice-cold cerveza on postcard-perfect Playa San Miguel.
6 Mal País and Santa Teresa Surfing luscious breaks and feasting on farm-fresh cooking.
7 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú Kayaking and swimming in the bioluminescent waters.
8 Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco Hiking to a wilderness beach at the tip of the peninsula.
Parks & Reserves
Most of Nicoya’s parks and reserves lie along the shoreline, with several stretching out to sea to protect marine turtles and their nesting sites.
Parque Nacional Barra Honda Best in the dry season; you can go spelunking in underground limestone caves.
Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste Crucial to the survival of the leatherback turtle, this park protects one of the turtle’s major Pacific nesting sites.
Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional Olive ridley turtles converge in arribadas (mass nestings) at Ostional.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Camaronal This out-of-the-way refuge has good surf and protects the nesting grounds of four marine-turtle species.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú A privately owned reserve and an unexpected oasis of diverse landscapes.
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco Costa Rica’s first protected wilderness area is at the peninsula’s cape.
8Getting There & Away
The international airport in Liberia provides easy access to much of the Península de Nicoya. Small airstrips also serve Tamarindo, Nosara, Punta Islita (charters only) and Tambor, with regular flights from San José.
Most destinations are served by public buses; Santa Cruz and Nicoya are the region’s inland hubs. Private shuttles also run to the major beach destinations (including a fast boat service between Jacó and Montezuma).
You’ll probably want your own vehicle to reach more remote places. To drive the roads less traveled, it’s mandatory to have a 4WD, but be aware that during the rainy season many roads are impassable, especially on the remote southwestern coast. Always ask locally about conditions before setting out.
Northern Peninsula
The northern Nicoya coastline in a snapshot: white-sand beaches, rugged green hills, azure waters, stucco subdivisions. This is some of the most coveted real estate in the country, and when you zoom in, it’s a jumble of resorts and retirement properties with a high gringo-to-Tico ratio. The Costa Rican lifestyle here traditionally revolved around the harvest and the herd, but today Ticos live by the tourist season. Each year from December to April, when the snow falls on Europe and North America, Guanacaste experiences its dry season and tourists descend en masse. Ticos and expats alike are becoming increasingly aware of the tricky balance of development and conservation. But the waves keep rolling in and the sun continues to smile on the beaches of the northern peninsula.
Playas del Coco
Sportfishing is the engine that built Playas del Coco, while deep-sea diving has become an additional attraction. You’ll mingle with foreign-born anglers and divers at happy hour (it starts rather early). That said, there is an actual Tico community here and plenty of Tico tourists. The town broadened its international sporting reputation by hosting the country’s first-ever Ironman competition in June 2017.
Stroll along the grassy beachfront plaza at sunset and gaze upon the wide bay sheltered by long, rugged peninsular arms, the natural marina bobbing with motorboats and fishing pangas (small motorboats). All will be right in your world.
2Activities
Sportfishing, sailing, scuba diving and sea kayaking are popular activities that keep the troops entertained. Sea kayaks are perfect for exploring the rocky headlands to the north and south of the beach.
Pacific Coast Stand-Up PaddleWATER SPORTS
(Pacific Coast Discovery; 
%8359-5118; www.pacificcoastsuptours.com; lessons US$35, tours US$65-85)
Let Jorge and his crew take you out for an amazing day of paddling, exploring hidden coves, spotting dolphins and other sea creatures, and picnicking on a near-private beach. The three-hour tour even allows time for snorkeling. These guys also offer surf and snorkel tours, all of which are recommended. There is no formal office, but you can find these folks down at the beach or phone them beforehand.
Blue MarlinFISHING
(%2670-2222; www.sportfishingbluemarlin.com; half-day from US$500)
Takes sportsfishers out on eight different cruises, on boats ranging from the 28ft Sea Fox to the luxury 55ft Jackpot. Fishers routinely hook sailfish, marlin, dorado (mahi-mahi) and roosterfish. This company practices catch and release with all species.
4Sleeping
When it comes to lodgings in Playas del Coco, the emphasis seems to be on quantity rather than quality. There are loads of places to stay, but many of them are uninspiring. Fortunately, things have perked up a bit in recent years, with some newer hostels and a couple of unique high-end (though not too expensive) options.
Garden House at M&MHOSTEL$
(%2670-0273; gardenhouse@hotelmym.com; La Chorrera; dm $20-25, d incl breakfast $60; 
a
W
s)
There are plenty of budget cabinas (cabins) in Coco but this is the only proper hostel. After many changes in name and management, the property is now known as the Garden House – operated by the good folks behind Hotel M&M. There are two dorm rooms, a handful of privates and a sweet swimming pool, all within striking distance of the beach.
Villa del SolHOTEL$$
(%2670-0085, in Canada 514-400-9101; www.villadelsol.com; La Chorrera; d incl breakfast US$65-85, apt US$85-105; 
pa
iWs)
About 1km north of the town center, this leafy, tranquil property attracts monkeys, iguanas and a good variety of birdlife, in addition to happy travelers lounging on hammocks. The main building has stylish rooms with sunset-view balconies. In the back building, studio apartments (sleeping four) offer excellent value. Walk to the beach in five minutes.
Hotel M&MHOTEL$$
(%2670-1212; www.hotelmym.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$40/55/75; pW)
A romantic beachfront hacienda with a wooden balcony overlooking the boardwalk. Fan-cooled rooms have ceramic tiled floors, beamed ceilings and cold-water showers. This simple place is one of the only beachfront properties in Coco. And if the beach is not your thing, you can take a dip in the pool at sister property Garden House. Strangely, although M&M is slightly more expensive than the Garden House, it doesn’t have air-con, whereas its sister hostel does – if that matters in your decision-making process.
Pato Loco InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(%2670-0145; www.patolocoinn.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$58/68/78; paiWs
#)
Coloradan Mary Cox and parrot Simon offer a warm welcome to Coco Beach, with a wide range of rooms, a friendly bar and the best American breakfast in town (think biscuits and gravy). Most rooms feature stenciling or thematic murals, hand-painted by Mary herself. Stop by for Monday or Friday happy hour to shoot the breeze with expats.
Hotel ChantelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%2670-0389; www.hotelchantel.com; d incl breakfast US$69-89, ste US$115-200; paWs#)
Perched on a cliff overlooking the coast, this intimate hotel is a step up from other local lodgings. Eleven rooms feature tasteful wood and wicker furniture, contemporary artwork and private terraces with stunning vistas of Playas del Coco. The elegant infinity pool and the breezy rooftop restaurant Lookout share the same panoramic view. It’s a short drive from town: just south of Flor de Itabo, head west off the main road and follow the signs.
Rancho ArmadilloHOTEL$$$
(%8336-9645, 2670-0108; www.ranchoarmadillo.com; d incl breakfast standard US$204, deluxe US$244-278; paWs)
Near the entrance to town, this private estate is on a hillside about 600m off the main road (mostly paved), with ocean views to remind you where you are. It’s set on 25 acres with plenty of wildlife, and the seven rooms are decorated with individually crafted furniture, hand-woven tapestries and local artwork. Self-catering gourmands will appreciate the professional kitchen.
Hotel La Puerta del SolHOTEL$$$
(%2670-0195; www.lapuertadelsolcostarica.com; d/ste incl breakfast US$124/178; paWs)
Alessandro’s unpretentiously luxurious Mediterranean-inspired hotel is a short walk from the town and the beach, but a world away from the traffic and the noise. There are two large suites and eight huge pastel-colored rooms, with polished brick and concrete floors, king-sized beds and private terraces. The grounds are lush with blooming tropical flowers surrounding a glorious pool.
DEEP DIVES
The northern peninsula is one of the best and most easily accessible dive destinations in the country, though visibility varies greatly (9m to 15m, and sometimes up to 20m). Typical dive sites include the following:
A Volcanic rock pinnacles near the coast
A Isla Santa Catalina (about 20km to the southwest)
A Isla Murciélago (40km to the northwest, near the tip of Península Santa Elena)
There is no colorful hard coral such as you would see at a reef, but the sites make up for it with abundant marine life. Plenty of turtles and pelagics meander through, including mantas, sharks and whales. You’ll be lost in huge schools of smaller tropical fish. These waters are sometimes home to humpback whales, who can be heard underwater during calving season (January to March) and seen during migration season (June and July).
Isla Santa Catalina and Isla Murciélago both host migrant manta rays from December to late April, and Murciélago is also known for its regular sightings of resident bull sharks. Divers also head to Narizones, which is a good deep dive (about 27m), while Punta Gorda is an easy descent for inexperienced divers.
Costa Rica Dive Center (%2670-0308; www.summer-salt.com; Las Chorreras; 2-tank dives from US$80) This friendly Swiss-run dive shop (formerly known as Summer Salt) has professional, bilingual staff. Snorkelers are also welcome on the dive boats. Follow the sign to Summer Salt.
Rich Coast Diving (%2670-0176; www.richcoastdiving.com; 2-tank dives from US$85, Open Water courses US$550; 
h7:30am-6pm) This Dutch outfit is one of the largest dive operations in Coco. They offer the regular range of local dives (good for spotting sharks, rays and schools of fish) as well as more expensive trips to the Islas Catalinas and Murciélagos. CDC certified.
5Eating
Coco’s main drag is lined with places to eat, but it’s hard to distinguish one from another on this noisy, crowded street. Our favorite places are on the beach (of course) or tucked away in the quieter corners of town. Not surprisingly, it excels at seafood.
Heladeria & Pasteleria Dolce AmaroICE CREAM$
(%7025-2216; Plaza de Nino; ice cream US$3-5, pastries US$3-4; h8am-noon & 3-9pm Tue-Sat, from 9:30am Sun; aW)
Charming north Italian couple Elena and Francisco, from the hills of Venezia, offer a mind-boggling combination of homemade ice cream (18 flavors at last count) and killer pastries such as the chocolatosa (super chocolate). All the ice-cream making and espresso equipment comes from the old country. It’s behind Panaderia Tutu.
Tuanis BowlsSUSHI$
(Plaza del Coco; dishes US$8-9; h9am-8pm)
A fresh face on the Coco scene, this laid-back shack offers a select few (simply delish) items such as acai bowls featuring the Brazilian wonder-fruit in a variety of mixtures (add cacao chips or chia), and tuna poke bowls which taste like the fish just leapt from the nearby waves. From the Tico slang for ‘cool’ – Tuanis really is.
LookoutSEAFOOD$$
(%8755-7246; www.thelookoutcoco.com; oysters US$2-3, small plates US$6-15; h4-10pm Wed-Sun; W
v)
So many things to love about the Lookout: sustainably harvested Pacific oysters, locally brewed craft beers, and a small but intriguing menu of snacks, ceviches and sandwiches. And then there’s the view, taking in the Golfo de Papagayo and the Cordillera de Guanacaste in the distance. Service, however, can be slow. Located on the top floor of the Hotel Chantel.
La Dolce VitaITALIAN$$
(%2670-1384; www.ladolcevitacostarica.com; La Chorrera; mains US$15-20; hnoon-10pm; v)
Set in the Pueblito Sur open-air mall/food court about 500m north of the main drag, this is the local expat choice for oven-fresh pizza in Playas del Coco. The setting brings to mind suburban USA, but you can’t argue with the tuna or octopus carpaccio. It also serves a range of pastas, distinctive seafood dishes and traditional grills.
CitronFUSION$$$
(%2670-0942; www.citroncoco.com; appetizers US$10, mains US$15-24; h5:30-10pm Mon-Sat)
The contemporary menu features fresh ingredients and innovative preparations, including enticing specials from the wok (such as sea bass poached with scallions, soy sauce and sesame oil). Save room for a decadent Mediterranean dessert like panna cotta. Despite the shopping-mall setting, you can dine in the sophisticated, minimalist dining room or on an open-air deck, surrounded by pochote trees. It sometimes stays open later in high season.
Restaurante Donde Claudio y GloriaSEAFOOD$$$
(%2670-1514; www.dondeclaudioygloria.com; La Chorrera; breakfast US$5-10, lunch US$10-20, mains US$14-24; h7am-9pm; W)
Founded by Playas del Coco pioneers Claudio and Gloria Rojas, this casual, beachfront seafood restaurant has been a local landmark since 1955. The setting is perfect – breakfast, lunch or dinner – for watching beach goings on. Food is consistently good (though pricey). Service can be slow, but you’re in no hurry, right? Owner Javier rents a few rooms at the property next door.
6Drinking & Nightlife
BambooBAR
(%2670-0711; www.facebook.com/elcocobeach; appetizers US$5-10, mains US$8-16, pizzas US$16-28; h11am-11pm; W)
The former Tiki Coco offers a front-row seat for the ongoing beach-volleyball action or, even better, a killer sunset. This open-air beach bar offers beach-accented gastropub fare, ice-cold beers and hand-crafted cocktails, not to mention service with a smile. Happy-hour specials nightly from 3pm to 9pm.
Zi LoungeCLUB
(%2670-1978; www.zilounge.com; h11am-2:30am; W)
This is a pretty snazzy nightspot for a beer-drinking fishing port, but it suffers from an identity crisis – with a food menu that spans the globe, plus hookahs, sports on the TVs, nightly DJs and occasional live music. Still, people seem to be having a good time. Plus, you have to love an eight-hour happy hour (11am to 7pm).
8Information
Police (%2670-0258) Southeast of the plaza by the beach.
8Getting There & Away
It’s easy to get to Playas del Coco, which is located 25km from the Liberia airport; the journey takes only an hour or so by bus.
San José buses arrive and depart from the main terminal, about 100m south of Pato Loco Inn. Buses for Liberia, Filadelfia and, very rarely, Playa Panama, stop next to the red awning and benches opposite the Hard Rock Cafe.
Liberia US$2, one hour, departs hourly from 5am to 11pm.
San José Pulmitan US$10, five hours, departs 4am, 8am and 2pm.
Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa (Beautiful Beach) is a lovely, wide and languid sheltered bay, framed by headlands and sprinkled with coconut palms and olive trees. Although it’s only 5.5km (by road) north of Playas del Coco, and development is springing up rapidly along this entire coastline, Hermosa feels more remote.
2Activities
North Pacific ToursFISHING
(%8398-8129; www.northpacifictours.com; fishing trips from US$400, surfing trips from US$300)
This fish and surf operation knows where to find the biggest fish and the biggest breaks. Captain Mauricio and first mate Daniel will take you on their 26ft fishing boat, Don Manual, for coastal fishing, snorkeling and/or surfing. Split-charters available. Trips vary in length from half to full days.
BA DiversDIVING
(%2672-0032; www.badivers.cr; Rte 159; 2-tank dives from US$120; h7am-5pm)
BA’s very experienced and efficient crew will take you out on the Legend to hit the local dive sites around Playa Hermosa. Longer trips to the Bat Islands are also on offer. Located on the main road at the southern end of town, next to Restaurante Plaza del Mar.
4Sleeping
Congo’s Hostel & CampingHOSTEL$
(%2672-1168; www.congoshostel.com; campsites US$9, dm incl breakfast US$12-15; paW)
This decent, friendly budget option is on the second beach-access road, just one block from the beach. It’s a ramshackle but relaxed place, offering hammocks, secure parking (US$2) and an open-air communal kitchen. The four-bed dorm rooms have metal beds with worn mattresses and a bathroom. Breakfast is coffee and tortillas.
La Gaviota TropicalHOTEL$$$
(%2672-0011; www.lagaviotatropical.com; r/ste/master ste US$150/170/290; paWs)
It’s ingenious: a vertical hotel. All five huge suites (fully equipped and impeccably decorated) face the sea. Cool off in the small but spectacular infinity pool on the top floor. Downstairs, you can enjoy an excellent meal at Roberto’s restaurant (mains US$15-20; h11am-10pm; W) or walk a few steps to the sand.
Bosque del MarHOTEL$$$
(%2672-0046; www.bosquedelmar.com; d/tr/q US$225/282/339; paiWs) 
S
Perched on the sand at the southern end of the beach, this lovely all-suite hotel offers a stunning location. Guests relish the gorgeous gardens, private terraces and contemporary design elements. Pay more for beachfront suites, which allow you to enjoy ocean views while soaking in your own open-air hot tub. Get here via the first beach-access road.
Hotel El VeleroHOTEL$$$
(%2672-0036, 2672-1017; www.costaricahotel.net; d US$140; paWs)
Just steps from the beach, this resort hotel has 22 spacious rooms decorated with woodwork, bamboo beds with colorful bedspreads, wicker ceiling fans and granite washbasins. Ask for a seafront room on the 2nd floor for maximum views.
5Eating
GingerMEDITERRANEAN$$
(%2672-0041; www.gingercostarica.com; tapas US$6-13; h5-10pm Tue-Sun; v)
On the east side of the main road, you’ll see this stunner cantilevered into the trees. This is not the restaurant you would expect to find in an unassuming beach village. The chic ambience complements a gourmet list of Asian- and Mediterranean-inspired tapas, fresh-fruit cocktails and a decent wine list. Reservations recommended for dinner during busy seasons.
La Casita del MariscoSEAFOOD$$
(%2672-0226; ceviches & soups US$8-10, mains US$10-15; hnoon-10pm)
A rather hidden, unassuming gem near the end of town, this place has Ticos and gringos alike raving about the soups, ceviches and all things fishy. And you’ve got a great view of the famous Monkey Head rock in the bay: what could be better? Go the whole hog and treat yourself to a lobster. It’s located across from Las Brisas condominiums.
A more visible version of this restaurant exists in Playas del Coco, too.
Aqua SportCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2672-0151; www.facebook.com/aquasportcr; mains US$10-20; h10am-10pm; W)
This colorful, fun beach bar is an excellent place to pass an evening feasting on burgers or fish tacos and swilling beers. Or sample the Peruvian specialties, such as lomo saltado (salted pork), diabla shrimp (spicy with tomato sauce) and of course ceviche. Take a seat in the giant green rocking chair and chill.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses to Liberia and San José depart from the main road on the northern end of the beach and make a stop in Sardinal.
Liberia La Pampa (MAP; %2665-7530, 2686-7245; www.transporteslapampa.com); US$2, 1¼ hours, departs eight times from 5am to 7pm.
San José Tralapa; US$11, six hours, departs 5am.
CAR
Coming from Liberia, you’ll drive west for 14km, crossing the steel bridge and entering the village of Comunidad. Before the Do-It Center, turn right and drive another 1.6km. Turn left at the sign for Playa Panamá. Continue 11km and turn left onto the road that will take you into Hermosa. The entire route is paved, albeit winding.
If you have some time, it’s worth exploring the beaches along the Golfo de Papagayo. Playa Panamá is right in the middle of the gulf with mangroves on one side, and a placid bay that feels almost like a lake. In between are the rustic Playa Bonita and Playa Buena.
Playa Ocotal
There is not much of a town here – just a few vacation rentals and an attractive resort. That’s one reason it feels like a rustic outpost amid the condo-mania of the northern peninsula. The beach is gray and wooded, populated by mischievous magpie-jays, while the picturesque northernmost corner is dotted with small, brightly painted fishing boats rocking on the tide as wide-winged brown pelicans glide around them, and kids cavort on the sand. The water is warm and placid, and you can snorkel around the rocks at the southern end.
Playa Ocotal is about 4km southwest of Playas del Coco by paved road and it’s worth a trip simply to eat at Father Rooster.
2Activities
Rocket Frog DiversDIVING
(%2670-1589; www.scuba-dive-costa-rica.com; 2-tank dives US$85-165, depending on location; h8am-6pm)
An awesome upstart dive shop on the Los Almendros property which hits 22 local dive sites and motors out to the Islas Catalinas to dive with mantas. The 36ft, purpose-designed Pacific Express promises to make it to distant dive sites in half the time of other vessels.
Diamante Eco Adventure ParkADVENTURE
(%2105-5200, toll-free international 1-800 464 5554; www.diamanteecoadventurepark.com; Playa Matapalo; adult/child packages from US$42/34; h8:30am-4:30pm)
Here’s an attempt to fit all of Costa Rica into one adventure park. This park offers almost every activity in the book, including all-terrain vehicle (ATV) tours, fishing, hiking, biking, horseback riding, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, stand-up paddling, surfing and ziplining. There’s also an animal sanctuary and a botanical garden. And if you need a rest after your adventures, a hammock-strung beach.
4Sleeping & Eating
Los Almendros de OcotalAPARTMENT$$
(%2670-1560; www.losalmendrosrentals.com; studio/apt/villa US$82/180/237; paiWs)
Perched on the hillside just above the beach, these studios and apartments are a great option for divers, beach bums and self-caterers. Studios (no beach view, unfortunately) sleep two, apartments sleep four and villas sleep six. Fancier units have a private pool and terrace, and there are Jacuzzis downstairs at the foot of the beach.
Villa Casa BlancaGUESTHOUSE$$$
(%2670-0518; http://boutiquehotelsguanacaste.typepad.com; d/ste US$110/125; paWs)
This gracious stucco mansion houses a friendly B&B. The property is charming in an artistic Old World way, with plenty of eclectic art, a two-tiered swimming pool and a wide porch offering glorious ocean views. The rooms are a little tired, but adequate. It’s a five-minute walk down to the beach, or you can take a bike from the lobby.
Father Rooster Bar & GrillPUB FOOD$$
(%2670-1246; www.fatherrooster.com; mains US$10-20; h11am-10pm; W)
This colorful gastropub by the sea serves up tasty sandwiches and US pub fare, as well as top-notch (though expensive) cocktails. Try the Tica Linda, a wicked mix of Cacique, juice and grenadine. You can’t beat the location, whether you sit in the rockers on the shaded terrace or at tables under the palms, sunk into the sand. Pura vida!
8Getting There & Away
There are hourly buses between Liberia and Playas del Coco, some of which continue on to Ocotal. Otherwise, it’s not too long a walk from Coco, which is around 4km away by road; a taxi from Coco should cost under US$10.
Bahía Potrero
Although they’re lined up in a row, Playas Danta, Pan de Azúcar, Potrero, Flamingo, Brasilito and Conchal have little in common. The beaches range from gray sand to white sand to crushed seashells, with a wide variety of development along the way. It’s gratifying to know that even here – along this busy strip of coastline – it’s still possible to find a pretty playa (beach) without another soul on it.
Coming from the north, it’s tempting to take the road from Sardinal to Potrero. Keep in mind there’s a reason why locals call this route the ‘Monkey Trail.’ The first 8km of gravel road leading to the small town of Nuevo Colón is fine, but the second half is pretty brutal, and should only be tackled in dry season with a 4WD. The Monkey Trail begins 5km west of El Coco; turn right at the Castrol Oil sign and follow the signs for Congo Trail Canopy Tour. At the ‘T’ intersection in Nuevo Colón, turn left, bear left at the fork and continue for 5km until you reach Congo Trail Canopy. From there, it’s a hair-raising 6km drive to Bahía Potrero.
To avoid the rough roads, return to the main peninsular highway from El Coco, then head south through Filadelfia and on to Belén (a distance of 18km), from where a paved road heads 25km west to Huacas. Take the road leading north until you hit the ocean in Brasilito. If you turn right and head north, you’ll pass Playa Flamingo and Bahía Potrero before reaching Playa Pan de Azúcar. If you make a left instead and head south, you will end up at Playa Conchal.
Potrero
Several beaches – largely undeveloped – are strung along this low-key bay. Playa Prieta is a gorgeous black-sand beach, with crystal-blue waters and lush green vegetation, making for a colorful landscape indeed. The small cove is ideal for swimming, sunbathing and strolling. To the south, the gorgeous white-sand beach at Playa Penca curves around another little cove, where stand-up paddleboarders ply the sheltered turquoise bay toward gleaming offshore islets. Further south is the more developed ‘town’ beach, Playa Potrero.
There’s a small fishing pueblo (village) at Potrero, just beyond the northern end of the eponymous beach. This is where the bus line ends, so these beaches won’t see the weekend rush found at Brasilito. It’s a nice walk (at low tide) from Flamingo along the beach.
4Sleeping & Eating
Pitaya LodgeHOTEL$$
(%2654-4145; www.pitayalodge.com; d/q incl breakfast US$75/95; paWs)
Oddly situated on the main drag north of Potrero, this little place (named for the popular dragon fruit) is set up like a roadside motel – a strip of rooms facing the pool, facing the road. That said, it has a boutique feel, with batik fabrics adorning earth-toned walls. It’s a 15-minute walk to Playa Penca.
Bahía del SolBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%2654-4671; www.bahiadelsolhotel.com; d/ste incl breakfast from US$220/316, 4-person ste US$468; paiWs)
With a prime beachfront location at Playa Potrero, this luxurious spot gets high marks for four-star laid-back elegance. Large, tropically themed rooms surround a pool with a swim-up bar and a garden with hammocks and day beds. Out front, the lawn leads to the upscale hotel restaurant, Nasu, and a beach peppered with palapas (shelters with thatched, palm-leaf roofs and open sides). Recently added ‘deluxe superior’ rooms fall between a standard and a suite, with an in-room Jacuzzi (US$280).
The ShackAMERICAN$
(La Choza; %2654-6038; www.facebook.com/TheShackCR; breakfast US$6-7; h8am-2:30pm; pW)
Set beneath a stilted tin roof twirling with ceiling fans, this fabulous diner is Potrero’s favorite spot to grab a bite. It focuses on inexpensive yet filling brunches such as breakfast burritos, various egg specials and oatmeal bowls. And the Bostonian owner says the homemade bagels are coming back!
Beach HouseBAR
(%2654-6203; www.beachhousecr.com; h11am-10pm; W
c)
It’s hard to resist this colorful shack on the beach offering cold fruity cocktails and glorious sunset views. You’d expect seafood and pub fare, but there’s also live music and a playroom for kids. The ‘you hook it, we cook it’ special is on offer for fishing folk at a US$6 surcharge.
8Getting There & Away
Departing Potrero, buses begin their route on the southeast corner of the soccer field. All buses go via Flamingo.
San José Tralapa; US$10, six hours, departs 2:45am, 9am and 2pm.
Santa Cruz Transportes Folklórica (www.transportesfolklorica.com); US$3, two hours, departs eight times per day from 6am to 9:40pm.
Playa Flamingo
Any time a once-pristine slice of paradise sprouts McMansions and condos and gets stitched up with a network of roads, there is a tendency to point fingers and raise hell about what was and what now is. And, yes, at Flamingo it does feel like the developers won. But that does not change the fact that this sugary, postcard-worthy white-sand and shell beach is glorious. Kissed by a serene blue sea with the rugged keys of the Catalinas floating off in the distance, it attracts a local Tico scene along with package tourists. Nose the air if you must, but admire the ocean in front of you, not the developments behind. Budget options and small-scale or independent lodgings of any sort are nonexistent. If you want to visit the beach but save a few bucks, consider staying in nearby Brasilito.
5Eating
La Cuchara VerdeVEGETARIAN$$
(%8811-0222; mains US$8-12; h8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; Wv) S
‘Positive food’ is promised at this good-vibes vegetarian cafe. Burgers, sandwiches, pastries and egg dishes will sate your animal-free appetite. Pair your meal with an organic iced tea or a fresh-fruit smoothie.
Angelina’sSEAFOOD$$$
(%2654-4839; www.angelinasplayaflamingo.com; pizza US$16-19, mains US$16-29; h11:30am-10pm)
Relatively formal for Costa Rica, Angelina’s offers fine dining in a breezy, open-air setting, upstairs at the Plaza mini-mall. Innovative seafood preparations feature tropical fruits and local flavors. Frugal travelers can feast on pizzas with unique toppings or delectable pasta dishes, washed down with Costa Rican craft beers.
8Getting There & Away
Buses depart from the traffic circle near the town entrance and travel via Brasilito. Some also head north into Potrero and then turn around. Schedules change often, so ask locally about departure times as well as the best place on the road to wait for the bus.
Liberia La Pampa; US$3, two hours, departs 5am, 10:30am, 12:30pm and 3:40pm.
San José Tralapa; US$13, six hours, departs 9am and 2pm.
Santa Cruz Transportes Folklórica (%2680-3161; www.transportesfolklorica.com; cnr Calle 7 & Av 3); US$3, 1½ hours, departs 12 times per day from 6am to 10pm.
Playa Brasilito
Unlike the other touristy towns along this stretch, Brasilito feels like an authentic pueblo, complete with a town square, a beachfront soccer pitch, a pink-washed iglesia (church) and a friendly Tico community. All of which makes up for the beach, which has much better neighbors on either side. Fortunately, it’s just a short stroll along the sea to sugary Conchal.
4Sleeping
oHotel Quinta EsenciaB&B$$
(%2654-5455; www.hotel-quintaesencia.net; d incl breakfast $75; paWs)
An artistic vibe pervades this chilled-out lodging, built around the trees on the northern edge of Brasilito. The comfortable guest rooms feature driftwood, bamboo and neutral tones, accented by ribbons of color. Co-owner Stephanie is an artist, and you’ll see her work scattered about the premises. There’s a lot of love (and a few cute cats) here. It’s up a somewhat rough, muddy road.
Diversion TropicalCABINA$$
(%2654-5519; www.diversiontropical.com; s/d/tr US$49/55/61; paWs)
Next to Papaya, this is an outstanding deal in a busy roadside location. Tiled rooms are clean but cramped, with those upstairs giving a glimpse of the ocean. Guests have free use of snorkel gear, while kayaks are available for rental. Communal facilities (aka the ‘Fun Zone’) include an outdoor kitchen and grill, a book exchange, board games and darts. Under new ownership, added perks include memory-foam mattresses.
Hotel BrasilitoHOTEL$$
(%2654-4237; www.brasilito.com; dm US$74-94, s/d US$64/95; paW)
On the beach side of the plaza, this basic hotel offers simple, clean rooms with wood floors and ceiling fans, lined up along a wide balcony. Sea-view rooms cost a little more, but are worth the splurge. Otherwise, the patio’s hammocks are ideal for soaking up the sunset. Budget rooms (no air-con) are also available. There are 10 different price categories for rooms, from budget singles to family options.
Conchal HotelHOTEL$$$
(%2654-9125; www.conchalcr.com; d incl breakfast US$106-123; paiWs)
This bougainvillea- and palm-dappled lodge is a sweet retreat. Spacious rooms are fitted with unique design touches, such as beamed ceilings and wrought-iron furniture. Enjoy the lovely gardens while lounging poolside or from the privacy of your patio. A simple but scrumptious continental breakfast is served at the Papaya Restaurant, which is also recommended for other meals.
5Eating
Camarón DoradoSEAFOOD$$
(Golden Shrimp; %2654-4028; cnr of Plaza Deportes; set meals US$9, children’s plates US$7-9, fish platters US$14-28; hnoon-10pm)
Conveniently located on the corner where the main square meets the beach, just before Don Brasilito’s, this local favorite has been serving up fresh seafood for years (although the shrimp really aren’t golden). The sign says it all: lunch and dinner on the beach – what could be better?
The SpotINTERNATIONAL$$
(%2654-5463; www.facebook.com/thespotbrasilito; tapas US$6-8, mains US$12-14; h7am-9pm Tue-Sun; Wv)
Downstairs from the Hotel Brasilito, this restaurant occupying a fresh, open-air patio serves a wide range of international fare, from French petit déjeuner (breakfast) to Mediterranean tapas and American burgers. Tropical decor and ocean views promise a pleasant experience.
Papaya RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$
(%2654-9125; www.conchalcr.com; mains US$16-20; h8:30am-6:30pm Thu-Tue; Wv)
Vegetarians and seafood lovers, rejoice! For the former, there are all-day breakfasts, power salads and falafel wraps. For the latter, there are seafood salads, fresh grilled fish and jumbo shrimp. Come during the day for big burritos and flatbread sandwiches, or come at night for fancier fare – and (sometimes) live music. The restaurant is in the Conchal Hotel.
8Getting There & Away
All buses to/from Playa Flamingo and Potrero (US$3) travel through Brasilito (originating in Liberia, Santa Cruz or San José). There are three daily buses to San José. Buy tickets in advance at the Tralapa Agencia (%2221-7202; h8am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 3pm Sun, closed noon-1pm) at the north end of Brasilito, across from the sports field (the bus stops here, too).
Playa Conchal
Just 1km south of Brasilito is Playa Conchal, a gorgeous stretch of palm-backed sea and sand. Conchal rates among Costa Rica’s most beautiful beaches. The name comes from the billions of conchas (shells) that wash up on the beach, and are gradually crushed into coarse sand. The shallows drift from an intense turquoise to sea-foam green deeper out – a rarity on the Pacific coast. If you have snorkeling gear, this is the place to use it.
The beach is often packed with locals, tourists and countless vendors, but on weekdays during low season, Playa Conchal is pure paradise. The further south you stroll, the wider, sweeter and more spectacular the beach becomes.
You can walk to Conchal from Brasilito depending on the tide and the amount of rain (the gully between the two beaches may flood, but local dudes with off-road vehicles will ferry you across, for a price).
DON’T MISS
PLAYA PAN DE AZÚCAR
Although buses stop at Potrero, travelers with their own ride can continue 3km north on a paved road to ‘Sugar-Bread Beach,’ named for the strip of sugary white sand that’s protected at both ends by rocky headlands. This is one of the most scenic stretches of road in all of northern Costa Rica, as dry rugged cliffs sheer down into aquamarine coves sheltered by offshore islets. The ocean here is calm, clear and perfect for snorkeling. The remote location – and the lack of cheap accommodations – create an atmosphere of total seclusion.
Perched on its own little piece of paradise, Hotel Sugar Beach (%2654-4242; www.sugar-beach.com; d/ste incl breakfast from US$158/280; paiWs) S is the only accommodation on this playa. If it’s out of your budget (or full), there are more options in nearby Bahía Potrero.
The drive from Potrero to Playa Pan de Azúcar is one of the most scenic stretches of paved road in all of northern Costa Rica. (This is a rarity in Costa Rica: a totally remote, perfectly private, drop-dead gorgeous ‘secret spot’ that doesn’t require a 4WD.)
Playa Grande
Playa Grande is a wide, gorgeous beach, famous among conservationists and surfers alike. By day, offshore winds create steep and powerful waves. By night, an ancient cycle continues, as leatherback sea turtles bearing clutches of eggs follow the ocean currents back to their birthplace. The beach stretches from the Tamarindo estuary, around a dome rock – with tide pools and superb surf fishing – and on to equally grand Playa Ventanas. Even confident swimmers should obey riptide signs, as people have drowned here.
Since 1991 Playa Grande has been part of the Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste, protecting one of the world’s most important leatherback nesting areas. At night it’s only possible to visit the beach on a guided tour.
You’ll notice many ‘For Sale’ signs bordering the park, and the inevitable whine of the chainsaw, which gives one pause for thought as to which way this community is going.
1Sights
Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de GuanacastePARK
(%2653-0470; adult/child US$12/2, turtle tours incl park admission US$35; h8am-noon & 1-5pm, tours 6pm-2am)
Las Baulas national marine park encompasses the entire beach at Playa Grande, as well as the adjacent land and 220 sq km of ocean. This is one of the world’s most important nesting areas for the critcally endangered baula (leatherback turtle). In the evenings from October to March, rangers lead tours to witness the turtles’ amazing cycle of life. Canoe tours explore the mangroves, home to caimans and crocodiles, as well as numerous bird species such as the roseate spoonbill.
2Activities
Surfing
Surfing is the main motivation for coming to Playa Grande, and it is indeed spectacular. There are two main beach breaks – one at either end of the beach – especially at high tide in the early morning. Unfortunately, when the surf’s up the breaks get crowded, so chat up some locals to learn their secrets.
Playa Grande Surf CampSURFING
(%2653-1074; www.playagrandesurfcamp.com; board rental per day US$20, 2hr lessons US$40)
In addition to board rental and surf lessons, this outfit also offers surf packages which include accommodations, and can arrange transportation to the best breaks on the peninsula. It’s in the southern part of Playa Grande.
Frijoles Locos Surf & SpaSURFING
(%2652-9235; www.frijoleslocos.com; boards per hour US$5-25, 1½hr lessons from US$30; h9am-6pm)
An all-purpose surf shop where you can rent surfboards and sign up for lessons. Afterwards, recover with a deep-tissue massage or another spa treatment. This place also rents just about everything you need to guarantee a great day at the beach, including bikes, snorkel gear, boogie boards and paddleboards, and shade tents. Enjoy!
Wildlife-Watching
Playa Grande is a wilderness beach, nearly surrounded by mangrove swamps. Protected by the Tamarindo Wildlife Sanctuary (in addition to the Las Baulas national park), this place is teeming with wildlife – and not only turtles. Local guides lead canoe expeditions in the Tamarindo estuary, where you can spot crocs, monkeys, anteaters and pizotes (coatis), not to mention a stunning variety of birds.
Black Turtle ToursWILDLIFE
(%8534-8664; Hotel Las Tortugas; canoe tour per person US$30, turtle tour per person US$25)
Paddle a canoe through the saltwater jungle that dominates the Tamarindo Wildlife Sanctuary, at the southern end of Playa Grande. This maze of mangroves – including five different species – is home to a spectacular array of flora and fauna. Your guide, Jhonathan, will help you spot it.
4Sleeping
Lodgings are located at the two ends of Playa Grande. At the northern end, you’ll find the heart of the village, with Hotel Las Tortugas, the main beach entrance, the ranger station and the bulk of facilities. At the southern end, a handful of guesthouses have opened up in the Palm Beach Estates development, where there’s another beach-access point. Further south is Hotel Bula Bula and the boats to Tamarindo.
Playa Grande Surf CampCABINA$
(%2653-1074; www.pgsc.com; dm US$25, d US$45-50; paWs)
Aside from offering boards, lessons and trips, the surf camp is also a great budget-accommodations option. Three cute, thatched, A-frame cabinas have private porches and hammocks, just steps from the beach. There are also two breezy elevated cabinas that sleep two. Surf packages available. A recently opened smart cafe downstairs and an outdoor shared kitchen up the ante here.
oLa Marejada HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%2653-0594, in USA & Canada 800-559-3415; www.hotelswell.com; r US$90; aWs)
Hidden behind a bamboo fence, this stylish nest is a gem. The eight elegantly understated rooms have stone-tile floors, rattan and wooden furnishings, and queen beds. There’s not a lot of space here, but it’s lovingly cared for and generously shared. Surf lessons and massage services are offered onsite, not to mention an excellent restaurant.
Indra InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(www.indrainn.com; r US$72; paW)
It’s not too fancy at Indra Inn, but it doesn’t have to be. The grounds are blooming with fruit trees and hung with hammocks. Rooms are freshly updated (the old bar has recently been converted into four rooms) and simply decorated. Owners Matt, Natalia and Dante are charming hosts. Other perks include irresistible breakfasts, daily yoga classes and good vibes.
BP Surf HostelCABINA$$
(%8879-5643; bpsurf@gmail.com; r US$75; paWs)
We know a bargain when we see one, and we see one here. Four spacious cabinas feature spotless tile floors and bathrooms, well-stocked kitchens and shiny stained-wood furnishings. They’re lined up in a row, facing a small swimming pool and shady bar. Everything you need in one convenient, comfortable package.
Hotel CantaranaINN$$$
(%2653-0486; www.hotel-cantarana.com; Palm Beach Estates; s/d US$120/135; paWs)
This is a lovely, intimate inn nestled into the semi-gated Palm Beach Estates. Spacious and luxurious rooms each have a private terrace overlooking the glittering pool and gorgeous gardens. A highlight is the restaurant, set on the 2nd-floor terrace amid the treetops. Open for breakfast and dinner, the kitchen creates tasty concoctions from local ingredients.
Hotel Bula BulaHOTEL$$$
(%2653-0975; www.hotelbulabula.com; r incl breakfast US$141; paWs)
At the southern end of town, Hotel Bula Bula has decked out its rooms with king-size beds, tropical paint jobs and whimsical local art. The grounds are gorgeous and the front porch is well equipped with rattan rockers. Most importantly: cocktails. The Great Waltini’s hardwood bar puts out some seriously potent drinks, including rum yummies, margaritas and the mysterious Siberian. Monday Mexican Nights crank up the fiesta a notch or two.
Hotel Las TortugasHOTEL$$$
(%2653-0423; www.lastortugashotel.com; d economy/standard US$160/180, apt US$250; paWs) S
Local hero and granddad of Playa Grande, Louis Wilson was instrumental in the designation of the national park. Abutting the beach, his hotel was carefully designed to keep ambient light away from the turtle-nesting area. Rooms are modest, but they’re only about 15 steps from the waves. Apartments (500m inland) offer more space and amenities, including kitchenettes and private porches.
5Eating & Drinking
Taco StarMEXICAN$
(tacos US$3; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Three words: beachfront taco stand. Hefty beef and veggie tacos and fresh fruit batidos (shakes) will sustain you for a full day of sun and surf. Can’t beat it.
Cafe Del PuebloITALIAN$$$
(%2653-2315; mains US$10-22; h5-10pm Mon-Sat)
Just east of town, this open-air Italian restaurant is a gem. Thin-crust pizzas get good reviews, and regulars rave about the innovative seafood preparations, tender steaks and homemade pasta dishes. Dine under the stars on the patio. Reservations recommended on weekends.
Kike’s PlaceBEER GARDEN
(%2653-0834; hnoon-10pm)
For nightlife on the northern end of Playa Grande, Kike’s is the only game in town. Order the local catch of the day from the blackboard until 10pm, or hang out playing pool and watching odd (and old) movies under the array of international flags above the bar. A bit more Tico flavor than your hotel bar, for sure.
8Information
Playa Grande Clinic (%2653-2767, 24hr emergency 8827-7774; www.facebook.com/pgclinic; hMon-Fri) If you get rolled too hard in the surf and need a doctor, find this clinic next to Kike’s Place.
8Getting There & Away
The Santa Cruz bus (516) to and from the coastal towns stops at Playa Grande twice daily, at 7am and 3pm, but the road is paved so it’s also an easy drive.
Alternatively, catch a boat across the estuary from Tamarindo to the southern end of Grande (around US$2 per person, from 7am to 4pm). From Playa Grande arrange your boat to Tamarindo at Hotel Bula Bula or just pop up on the beach – the boatmen will see you. Note: three tourists have been attacked and one surfer lost his lower leg to a croc in the estuary – take the boat and don’t try crossing on the cheap.
Playa Tamarindo
POP 6400
If Patrick and Wingnut from the 1994 surfing movie Endless Summer II surfed a time machine to present-day Tamarindo, they’d fall off their boards. A quarter century of hedonism has transformed the once-dusty burg into ‘Tamagringo,’ whose perennial status as Costa Rica’s top surf and party destination has made it the first and last stop for legions of tourists.
Despite its party-town reputation, Tamarindo offers more than just drinking and surfing. It forms part of Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste, and the beach retains an allure for kids and adults alike. Foodies will find some of the best restaurants in the country. There’s a thriving market on Saturday mornings and fierce competition has kept lodging prices reasonably low. Its central location makes it a great base for exploring the northern peninsula.
2Activities
Costa Rica Stand-Up Paddle AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8780-1774; www.costaricasupadventures.com; board rental from US$30, lessons/tours US$85/155)
Yoga classes on the ocean: here’s your chance to do sun salutations on a stand-up paddleboard. If you prefer more traditional SUP activities – say, paddling – you can do that too. Lessons take place right on the beach at Nogui’s, while tours go out to ride the surf or explore the flat waters of the estuaries.
Ser Om Shanti Yoga StudioYOGA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8591-6236; www.seryogastudio.com; Plaza Tamarindo, 2nd floor; classes from US$15)
There’s a full schedule of daily hatha and Vinyasa yoga classes, as well as Pilates and restorative yoga. It all takes place in a bright, airy studio on the top floor of Plaza Tamarindo.
E-Bike Costa RicaMOUNTAIN BIKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8458-7963; www.ebikecostarica.com; rental per day/week US$40/200; h8am-6pm)
Surfing
Like a gift from the surf gods, Tamarindo is often at its best when neighboring Playa Grande is flat. The most popular wave is a medium-sized right that breaks directly in front of the Tamarindo Diria hotel. The waters here are full of virgin surfers learning to pop up. There is also a good left that’s fed by the river mouth, though be advised that crocodiles are occasionally sighted here, particularly when the tide is rising (which is, coincidentally, the best time to surf). There can be head-high waves in front of the rocks near El Be. More advanced surfers will appreciate the bigger, faster and less crowded waves at neighboring beaches: Playa Langosta, on the other side of the point; Playas Avellanas, Negra and Junquillal to the south; and Playa Grande to the north.
There are countless surf schools offering lessons and board rental in Tamarindo. Surf lessons hover at around US$45 for 1½ to two hours, and most operators will let you keep the board for a few hours beyond that to practice.
oIguana SurfSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-0613; www.iguanasurf.net; board rental per day US$20, group/semiprivate/private lessons US$45/65/80; h8am-6pm)
Iguana Surf has been giving lessons for some 25 years, so they probably know what they’re doing. Excellent for couples, families or anyone really. The two-hour lesson includes a rash guard and locker, in addition to the surfboard. After your lesson, all gear is half-price.
Learn Improve Surf CompanySURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8316-0509; www.learnimprovesurfcompany.com; lessons per person US$70)
Edgar Sanchez wants to teach you how to surf. This upstart company excels at offering instruction for all ages and abilities. It also takes more advanced wave riders on surf tours to Playa Avellanas and Playa Grande.
Matos Surf ShopSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-0845; www.matossurfshop.com; Sunrise Commercial Center; board rental per day US$10; h8am-7pm)
In addition to giving lessons and renting boards, this place also offers surf photography and video (in case you wanted to star in your own version of Endless Summer). Tamarindo’s cheapest rates for board rental and sales. There is another outlet in Playa Grande.
Kelly’s Surf ShopSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1355; www.kellysurfshop.com; board rental per day/week US$20/120, group/semiprivate/private lessons US$50/65/90; h9am-6pm)
One of the best surf shops in the area, Kelly’s has a terrific selection of newish boards that it rents by the day or week. Premium boards cost a bit more. Staff are super informative, with lessons, advice and other recommendations to get you out on the waves. You can also rent bikes here.
Blue TrailzSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1705; www.bluetrailz.com; board rental per day US$15, group/semiprivate/private surf lessons US$45/60/80; h7am-7pm)
Blue Trailz offers surf lessons, board rental and other more comprehensive surf packages. The experienced and amiable surf instructors come highly recommended. Good discounts are possible if you book ahead online. There’s a hostel at the back, if you’re inclined to stay after your lesson.
Witch’s Rock Surf CampSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1262; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com; week-long package from US$868; h6am-10pm) S
Weeklong packages include lessons, board rental and a place to stay on the beach. Excursions to Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point are also available. Endless Summer surf legend Robert August shapes boards here.
Diving
Tamarindo is a surf town. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see below the waves. Enticing dive sites in the vicinity include the nearby Cabo Velas and the Islas Catalinas.
Freedive Costa RicaDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8353-1290; www.freedivecostarica.com; Plaza Conchal; free diving US$35-55, snorkeling US$55, spearfishing US$145; h9:30am-5:30pm)
Owner Gauthier Ghilain claims free diving is ‘the most natural, intimate and pure form of communion with the underwater world.’ It requires no bulky gear and minimal training. He promises a safe and super-fun environment in which to learn how to explore the deep blue sea in new ways.
Tamarindo DivingDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8583-5873; www.tamarindodiving.net; 2-tank dives US$110)
It’s called Tamarindo Diving, although trips actually depart from Playa Flamingo and head out to the Islas Catalinas. (It’s a trade-off: you’ll spend more time on the road but less time on the boat motoring to your destination.) Turtles, dolphins and whales are often spotted from the boat, while eagle rays, sharks and manta rays are lurking below the surface.
TTours
There are tour agencies all around town, offering surf lessons of course, but also boat tours, canopy tours, snorkeling trips, ATV rentals, sea kayaking and stand-up paddling. Bike and board rental is also easy to find.
4Sleeping
Tamarindo is packed with lodging options in all price ranges, including all manner of hostels, guesthouses and high-end resorts. The center can feel a bit oppressive, with crowded streets and nonstop heat, but it’s not that hard to escape the hullabaloo by staying on the south side of town. Things quieten down pretty quickly when you leave the main drag. We list high-season rates; prices drop significantly during other times of year.
Tamarindo BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1720; www.tamarindobackpackershostel.com; dm US$15, d with/without bathroom US$50/40; paiWs)
This attractive yellow hacienda has a great vibe that welcomes all comers. Private rooms (mostly with shared bathroom) are excellent value, with Spanish-tiled floors, mural-painted walls, beamed ceilings and flat-screen TVs. The dorms are quite clean but otherwise unspectacular. Outside, hammocks are strung in the tropical gardens and around a small pool. It’s a five-minute walk to the beach.
Located just uphill from the Mini Pura Vida Hostel (not Pura Vida Hostel!)
La Botella de LecheHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-0189; www.labotelladeleche.com; dm US$13-15, d US$50; paiWs)
With a relaxed vibe, this congenial spot – aka ‘the Bottle of Milk’ – is recommended for its warm and attentive management, plus air-conditioned rooms and dormitories. Stenciled walls pretty up the otherwise plain rooms. Facilities include a shared kitchen, surfboard racks, hammocks and a TV lounge.
Pura Vida HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2464; dm US$18-20, d with/without bathroom US$60/50; aiW)
Inside this leafy compound are dorms and private rooms accented by trippy murals and mirrored mosaics. The vibe is friendly and super chill, especially in the common rancho, furnished with hammocks and rocking chairs. They sometimes organize open-mic nights, live music and fire shows in keeping with the rockero-themed murals in the rooms. Free bikes and boards are available too. (This is not the Mini Pura Vida Hostel, the name of which is the result of an unpleasant business breakup.)
Blue Trailz HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1705; dm/r US$15/69; aiW)
Across the street from the beach, this immaculate and intimate hostel is popular among the surfer set. Budget travelers appreciate the clean, cool dorms (with air-con) as well as the attentive service from the staff. Guests get reduced rates on boards, bikes, lessons and tours at the Blue Trailz surf shop out front. Sweet.
Hotel MahayanaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1154; www.hotelmahayana.com; d US$65; paWs)
The Mahayana is a sweet retreat, away from the hustle and bustle of the main drag. Spotless, citrus-painted rooms are fitted with high ceilings, big windows and private terraces (with hammocks). The courtyard contains a small, cool pool and an outdoor kitchen, which is at your disposal.
Villas MacondoHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-0812; www.villasmacondo.com; s/d/tr US$50/60/70, with air-con US$75/87/97, apt US$125-170; paiWs)
Although it’s only 200m from the beach, this establishment is an oasis of serenity in an otherwise frenzied town – it’s also one of the best deals around. Beautiful modern villas with private hammocks and patios surround a solar-heated pool and tropical garden. Larger apartments are equipped with kitchens: ideal for families. Extra credit for naming it after Garcia-Marquez’s fictional town.
Harry’s El EsconditeGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8842-3419; www.esconditetamarindo.com; d/tr US$80/100; aWs)
Four attractive cabinas – with full kitchens and private patios – are arranged around a tropical garden with hammocks and a small swimming pool. Upstairs, guests share an open-air kitchen and sundeck. Free use of surfboards and bikes makes Harry a hero.
oBeach BungalowsB&B$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8800-0011; www.tamarindobeachbungalows.com; d incl breakfast US$214; pWs) S
Shaded by palms, these two-story teak bungalows feel like a luxurious retreat. In each bungalow, the upstairs is a rich yet rustic sleeping area, while the downstairs is an open-air poolside chill-out lounge. Guests enjoy a decadent breakfast, as well as free use of bikes, a gas grill and a common kitchen. Not exactly on the beach, but why quibble?
Ocho Artisan BungalowsBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8365-9666; www.ochoartisansbungalows.com; bungalow/casita $240/350; paW)
A slice of paradise just a block off the main drag. Meander through the jungle-like grounds’ inlaid wooden paths to any of seven bungalows (plus one casita) with pristine patios, or trundle over to the outdoor bar overlooking the beach. The stately and roomy habitations, comfortable for up to four, shine with newness; even the mosquiteros (mosquito nets) look fancy.
Tamarindo Bay Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2692; www.tamarindobayhotel.com; d incl breakfast from US$125; paWs) S
Here’s a romantic getaway for grown-ups only, where contemporary design goes hand in hand with environmental consciousness. Slick modern rooms have king-size beds and rainforest showers. Bikes, snorkel gear and boogie boards are at your disposal. But our favorite feature is the swimming pool, complete with multicolored LED lighting and recycled plastic decking. The open-air breakfast terrace is a treat, too.
Hotel LuameyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1510; www.hotelluamey.com; d from US$150; paWs)
Simply exquisite, this boutique hotel is an oasis of serenity and beauty in the midst of Tamarindo chaos. Spacious cabaña suites are decorated in soothing earth tones, with dark wood furnishings, stone showers and private patios (where breakfast is served). Service is very accommodating. Yoga and surf classes offered.
Sueño del Mar B&BB&B$$$
(%2653-0284; www.sueno-del-mar.com; d US$237, casitas US$277-367; paiWs)
This exquisite B&B on Playa Langosta is set in a stunning faux-dobe Spanish-style posada. The rooms have four-poster beds, artfully placed crafts and open-air garden showers, while the romantic honeymoon suite has a wraparound window with sea views.
There’s private beach access beyond the pool and tropical garden, and a priceless, pervasive atmosphere of seclusion and beauty. No children allowed.
TAMARINDO’S LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
Use your vacation time wisely by learning Spanish. There are several language schools in Tamarindo, all of which offer weeklong intensive courses at various levels. Packages usually include ‘homestay’ accommodations with a Tico family. Here’s a Tamarindo special: ‘Spanish & Surf’ packages that include language classes, surf lessons, accommodations and board rentals.
Coastal Spanish Institute (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2673; www.coastalspanish.com; per week from US$525) This Spanish school is located right on the beach in downtown Tamarindo (which may make it more difficult to concentrate on your grammar and vocabulary). It specializes in weekly surf and Spanish packages, which include 20 hours of Spanish classes and six hours of surf instruction, as well as board rental.
Instituto de Wayra (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-0359; www.spanish-wayra.co.cr; per week from US$320; h7am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sun) A Spanish program that offers small class sizes and an immersive experience. The school recommends (and arranges) homestays so students have more opportunities to polish up their language skills.
5Eating
oLa BodegaBREAKFAST, SANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8395-6184; www.labodegatamarindo.com; Nahua Hotel; mains US$6-8; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat; Wvc)
This delightful shop and cafe specializes in unique combinations of ingredients, focusing on whatever is fresh, local and organic. For breakfast, it does amazing things with eggs, while lunch is a daily changing menu of sandwiches and salads. Any time of day, you can’t go wrong with its banana bread or lemon scones and a cup of fresh brewed java.
oGreen PapayaMEXICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2652-0863; www.facebook.com/Gr33nPapaya; mains US$5-10; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; aWvc)
Swing on up to the bar for a breakfast burrito or pull up a tree-stump stool to sample the fantastic fare. The mahi-mahi tacos are perfection in a tortilla, while non-meat-eaters will appreciate the multiple veggie options including enchiladas in creamy chipotle sauce. You’ll go loco for the Chocolate Lovers dessert. Everything is funky, fresh and friendly – don’t miss it.
Surf ShackBURGERS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2346; www.facebook.com/surfshacktamarindo; mains US$5-10; h11am-9pm Fri-Wed; W)
If you are craving a big bad burger, Surf Shack has you covered, with a good selection of patties, thick-cut onion rings and irresistible milkshakes. Tin-can walls and surfboard decor create a laid-back vibe, enhanced by the drinks coming from the bar. It’s steps from the beach; the sea breeze is the perfect accompaniment to anything you order.
Nordico Coffee HouseCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nordicocoffee.com; Plaza Tamarindo; US$5-8; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat)
A Danish-Guatemalan couple have created this clean, well-lit place to eat and people-watch, towering above Tamarindo Plaza. The blue-and-white tiled walls, decorated with whale themes, shine brightly, and hip young staff are attentive. Smoothies, sandwiches and salads, sheltered from the sun in air-con coolness. Next to Ser Om Yoga Studio.
Falafel BarLEBANESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1268; www.facebook.com/tamarindofalafelbar; mains US$5-10; h7am-10pm Wed-Mon; v)
When you get tired of casados, head to this Middle Eastern cafe for all the faves: shawarma, falafel, tabbouleh, hummus and kebabs. The pita bread is made fresh daily. Fresh juice and coffee in the morning; a real ‘bar’ at night.
SproutINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2374; mains US$13-15; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; Wvc)
Sprout specializes in – wait for it – healthy food. Here, ‘healthy’ is a code word for fresh, nutritious and delicious, with a menu featuring giant salad bowls, veggie wraps and straight-out-of-the-surf seafood (including amazing fish tacos). Wash it down with a glass of organic wine or a ‘Green Day’ batido (spinach and mango flavor) and you’ll be feeling fine.
UtopiaFRENCH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2275-4375, 7073-3584; h5:30-10pm)
Hervé is out to impress with dishes including creamy chicken vol au vent, moules marinière (mussels in white wine) and a passel of veggie dishes. But the pastry chef saves his best for last, with unholy black-and-white mousse and other delectables. Thursday is Latin night, with salsa and merengue dancing. It’s next to Pura Vida Hostel.
La BaulaPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1450; www.facebook.com/PizzeriaLaBaula; mains US$12-16; h5:30-10:30pm; vc)
The best pie in Tamarindo, by some accounts. This casual open-air restaurant has 28 different pizzas with a wide variety of toppings, as well as salads. It’s also one of the most family-friendly restaurants in town, with a playground to keep the kids entertained. The open-air, woodsy setting requires insect repellent.
Seasons by ShlomyMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8368-6983; www.seasonstamarindo.com; Hotel Arco Iris; small plates US$8-12, mains US$18-20; h6-10pm Mon-Sat; v)
Don’t leave town without eating here. Israeli chef Shlomy offers a short list of carefully selected and perfectly prepared dishes. Depending on the availability of ingredients, you might start with grilled octopus or a lobster-leek terrine. Follow up with seared tuna in a honey and chili marinade or filet mignon in red-wine sauce. Perfection on a plate. Understated yet elegant, this mostly open-air restaurant also has some indoor seating and romantic poolside tables, and now offers a children’s menu too. Reservations are recommended.
Dragonfly Bar & GrillASIAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-1506; www.dragonflybarandgrill.com; mains US$18-22; h5:30-10pm Wed-Mon; pWv)
Beloved for its refined menu and its upscale tiki-bar atmosphere, this open-air dining room has twinkling lights and lanterns. The eclectic menu leans Asian, but fuses international elements. Go for the goodness-filled Buddha Bowl or the fiery Thai beef served on glass noodles. Desserts such as tres leches (three-milk pudding) are also divine.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The main drag in Tamarindo has the festive feel of spring break, with well-oiled patrons spilling out onto the beach, drinks in hand. Almost every hour is happy hour, all around you. If you’re not sure where to start, go for sundowners at any bar on the beachfront strip – if you can wait that long.
oCafe TicoCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8861-7732; www.facebook.com/cafeticotamarindo; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; W)
Walk in. Take a deep breath. Smell the magic brewing? On the wall it says, ‘good days start with coffee.’ Sip it on the shady patio while snacking on a homemade pastry. Pura vida.
Sharky’sSPORTS BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8729-8274; www.sharkysbars.com; h6pm-2am)
If you want to catch the big game, look no further than Sharky’s. Besides nine screens showing sports, there are burgers, wings and lots of beer. There’s a nightly lineup of fun and games, including karaoke night on Tuesday and ladies’ night on Saturday. The motto is ‘un zarpe mas?’ (one last drink?). Get ready to get your drink on.
El Be!BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2653-2637; h10am-10pm)
Formerly Le Beach Club, this place has changed languages (and added an exclamation point!) but the cool vibe remains the same. Lounge on beach beds or hammocks and listen to the DJ’s sounds. Happy hour (4pm to 7pm) features drink specials, live jazz music and fabulous sunsets. It’s not a bad option for food if you’re feeling peckish.
Volcano Brewing CompanyBEER GARDEN
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.volcanobrewingcompany.com; h11am-10pm)
Beer on the beach is never a bad thing, and when it’s Tico home brew, even better. The 10 varieties of cerveza are a bit pricey, but consider the location. Stare into the Pacific over your plastic cup of Gato Malo (Bad Cat) stout – and you can order from El Vaquero restaurant next door. It’s right next to Witch’s Rock Surf Camp.
TAMARINDO’S DRUG PROBLEM
Like a few other Tico beach towns with a young surfer crowd, Tamarindo has a bit of a nocturnal drug culture, a by-product of the country’s place as a way station on the South America–North America trade route. The casual stroller will be approached with offers for drugs (and sometimes women) after the sun goes down. It’s an annoyance at best; it’s still illegal if you get caught with drugs, and in recent years more violence along the beaches has occurred relating to San José–based gangs moving in.
8Information
BAC San José (Plaza Conchal; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Backwash Laundry (h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Get your filthy unmentionables washed, dried and folded.
Banco de Costa Rica (Plaza Conchal; h24hr) Twenty-four hour ATM.
Coastal Emergency Medical Service (%2653-1974, emergency 8835-8074; h24hr)
8Getting There & Away
Surfers and other beach party people flock to Tamarindo by air, bus and car. If you choose your lodgings wisely, there’s no need for a car, as you can walk to the beach and book tours of other outings in the area.
AIR
The airstrip is 3km north of town; a hotel bus is usually on hand to pick up arriving passengers. During high season, Sansa (%2290-4100; www.flysansa.com; Tamarindo Airport) has three daily flights to and from San José (one way US$140), as does Nature Air (one way US$124). Nature Air has two flights from Liberia. If you book early or go for the promotional fares, you can get pretty good discounts on these prices.
BUS
The Empresa Alfaro (%2653-0268, 2222-2666; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3:30pm Sun) office is near the beach, while other buses depart from the bus stop in front of Pacific Park.
Private shuttle buses offer a faster (albeit more expensive) option. Tamarindo Shuttle (%2653-0505; www.tamarindotransfersandtours.com; Centro Comercial Galerías del Mar) provides comfortable and convenient transfers from Tamarindo to destinations around the country, including both airports. Tropical Tours (%2640-0811, 2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com) has daily shuttles that connect Tamarindo to San José, as well as to several destinations in the southern part of the Nicoya peninsula.
BUSES FROM TAMARINDO
| Destination | Company | Price (US$) | Duration | Departures |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Liberia | La Pampa | 3 | 2½hhr | 12 times per day 3:30am-6pm |
| San José | Alfaro | 11 | 5½hr | 3am & 5:30am |
| San José | Tralapa | 11 | 5½hr | 7am |
| Santa Cruz | Tralapa | 2 | 1½hr | 6am, 8:30am & noon |
CAR & TAXI
By car from Liberia, take Hwy 21 to Belén, then Hwy 155 via Huacas to Tamarindo. A taxi costs about US$50 to or from Liberia.
Amazingly, there’s no gas station here. For that, you’ll have to drive 15 paved kilometers to Huacas, hang a right and go up the hill. The gas station is 4km ahead, on the right.
8Getting Around
Here’s a great service. Avellanas Express (one way/return US$6/12; h8am-5pm) runs a surf shuttle to area beaches. There are two different ‘lines’ from Tamarindo: the Blue Line goes back and forth to Playa Conchal; and the Green Line goes south to Avellanas and Negra. Based at Neptuno Surf Shop.
Playas Avellanas & Negra
These popular surfing beaches have some of the best, most consistent waves in the area, made famous in the surf classic Endless Summer II. The killer waves have led to one section being nicknamed ‘Little Hawaii.’
Playa Avellanas is an absolutely stunning pristine sweep of pale golden sand. Backed by mangroves in the center and with two gentle hillsides on either end, it has plenty of room for surfers and sunbathers to have an intimate experience even when there are lots of heads in town.
Playa Negra is also undeniably romantic. Though the sand is a bit darker and the beach is broken up by rocky outcrops, gorgeous dusty back roads link tide pools of expat shredders who picked this place to exist (and surf) peacefully. Though there isn’t much local soul here, the beach itself is a beaut.
2Activities
The waves at Playa Avellanas are decent for beginners and intermediate surfers. Little Hawaii is the powerful and open-faced right featured in Endless Summer II, while the beach break barrels at low tide. Still, advanced surfers get bored here, so they go to Playa Negra, which is blessed by a world-class right that barrels. Further south is (hush hush) Playa Tortuga, an epic break for advanced surfers only. The waves are best between April and November, but start getting good in March.
Avellanas Surf SchoolSURFING
(%2653-1531; www.avellanas-surf-school.com; board rental per day US$20, lessons adult/child US$70/60; h8am-5pm)
Mauricio Ortega is a local guy who loves to surf and wants to share his expertise and lifestyle with anyone who cares to partake. He and his wife Dialan run this highly rated surf school, and rent out a handful of cabins and villas close to the waves. Located next to Lola’s.
Playa Negra SUP Wave RidersSURFING
(%8702-7894, 2652-9420; www.playanegrasupwaveriders.com; lessons US$65-85, tours US$50-70)
In less than two hours, you’ll learn how to stand up and paddle, either by touring the flats of the local estuary or by heading out on the open ocean waves. If you already know what you’re doing, rental boards are also available. ASI certified.
4Sleeping
There’s not really a village here – just a series of surf-oriented lodgings strung out along the road that connects the two beaches. That said, there’s a nice range of sleeping options, from hippy surf camps to more sophisticated guesthouses and villas. If you prefer to sleep out under the stars, you’ll find a few places to string a hammock or pitch a tent at the southern end of Playa Avellanas.
Casa SurfGUESTHOUSE$
(%2652-9075; www.casa-surf.com; Playa Avellanas; dm per person US$15; p) S
Casa Surf looks tropically terrific, with bamboo exterior and palm thatch roof. Inside, you’ll find simple, clean rooms – brightly painted and fastidiously kept – with shared access to a bathroom and a kitchen. The upstairs hammock deck is an enticing place to spend an afternoon (or night). Also available: bike rental, book exchange and community guitar.
The casa offers an excellent-value surf, sleep and eat option (US$30), which includes two meals daily and surfboard rental.
Kon TikiHOSTEL$
(%2652-9117; www.kontikiplayanegra.com; Playa Negra; r per person US$20; pW)
Along the road from Avellanas, this low-key and inviting place has a rambling collection of colorful cabins on stilts. In the middle of it all is a rickety pavilion where guests swing in hammocks and devour pizza and other affordable fare. Bathroom facilities are shared. It’s popular with surfers and howler monkeys.
Peace RetreatB&B$$
(www.peaceretreat.ca; Playa Negra; s/d US$80/100, without bathroom US$60/75; pWs)
Sweet screened teak cabins are sprinkled around the jungly grounds, while additional rooms are perched above the central Casa Yoga. This is a place for relaxing and detoxing, rejuvenating and rejoicing. Morning yoga classes are open to the community. ‘Retreat’ packages are also available.
Las Avellanas VillasAPARTMENT$$
(%2652-9212; www.lasavellanasvillas.com; Playa Avellanas; d/tr/q US$90/100/110, air-con supplement US$10; paW)
Thoughtfully designed, these five stunning casitas are oases of tranquillity and balance, with private teak terraces, polished concrete floors, indoor greenery, open-air showers and large windows streaming with natural light. For practical matters, there are surfboard racks and hammocks (of course). Full kitchens make this option perfect for families or groups. The grounds are about 800m from the beach.
Café Playa NegraGUESTHOUSE$$
(%2652-9351; www.cafeplayanegra.com; Playa Negra; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$55/75/90/120; paiWs)
These stylish, minimalist digs upstairs from the cafe have polished concrete floors and elevated beds, dressed with colorful bedspreads and other artistic touches. There’s a groovy shared deck with comfy hammock chairs and an inviting swimming pool. The downstairs cafe, open all day, is worth a stop no matter where you are sleeping. Sample delectable sandwiches and super-fresh seafood.
Playa Negra Surf LodgeCABINA$$
(%2652-9270; www.playanegrasurflodge.com; Playa Negra; s/d/tr/q US$55/65/75/85, studio US$80, all incl breakfast; aWs)
The quaint cabinas here are set around a gorgeous tropical garden teeming with hummingbirds, butterflies and parakeets. Simple rooms have freshly painted walls and a few artistic details. Guests also have access to a shared terrace and plenty of hammocks. Don’t skip out on lunch at the onsite Jalapeño Eatery & Market. Studios have private kitchens.
Hotel Mauna LoaBUNGALOW$$
(%2652-9012; www.hotelmaunaloa.com; Playa Avellanas; d/tr/q from US$90/120/140, kitchen-use supplement US$20-30; paWs)
This hip spot offers a straight shot to the beach. Paths lead from the gorgeous pool area through a lush garden to attractive podlike bungalows. Look for open-air showers and swaying hammocks outdoors, and pastel-brushed walls and comfy orthopedic beds indoors. Prepare meals in the communal kitchen or eat at the onsite Italian restaurant. It’s closed from June to September.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
NO-STRAW CHALLENGE
A Canadian boy living in Avellanas, Max Machum, was inspired to try to eliminate plastic drinking straws from restaurants when he heard the Leatherback Project’s director describe how he had to remove a straw from a turtle’s nose to save its life. His ambitious idea was picked up by Lola’s on the Beach, which invested in biodegradable, environmentally friendly straws, and by other local restaurants.
There’s a national conversation in Costa Rica about how to eliminate plastics entirely – and it got its start here. You can spread the word and also specifically ask not to be given a straw when ordering drinks. More information is available on the ‘No Straw Challenge’ Facebook site.
5Eating
A legendary beach cafe that’s named after a pig: that’s the main eating destination in these surfer outposts. There are also some low-key markets and one renowned restaurant worth the trip into Negra.
Jalapeño Eatery & MarketMEXICAN$
(%2652-9270; www.playanegrasurflodge.com; Playa Negra; mains US$7-10; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
There’s something special about this glorified taco bar. Ingredients are all organically produced or locally sourced. Tortillas are hand-rolled; hot sauce and other condiments are homemade; chickens and eggs come from the neighbor’s farm. Even the fish is usually speared by the chef/owner. (So don’t complain if it takes longer than you expected.)
Lola’s on the BeachCAFE$$
(www.facebook.com/playaavellana; Playa Avellanas; mains US$6-12; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun; pW)
Hang out at this stylish beach cafe while waiting for the waves. Slanted wood chairs are planted in the sand beneath thatched umbrellas. A tree-stump bar overlooks an open kitchen, where the beachy cuisine is tops. Kudos for their determined efforts to recycle cooking oils and not use any plastics (you’ll get a groovy paper straw, if you ask).
In case you’re wondering, Lola was an enormous and lovable pig, aka the ‘Queen of Avellanas.’ She has since passed, but her legacy lives on in ‘little’ Lolita!
Villa DeevenaFUSION$$$
(%2653-2328; www.villadeevena.com; Playa Negra; mains US$19-33; h7am-10pm; paW)
Foodies drive from all over Guanacaste to sample the fare at this hidden gem. It’s worth the search for this otherworldly restaurant, the brainchild of chef Patrick Jamon (let the jokes begin: jamon means ‘ham’ in Spanish). Start with a fresh-fruit cocktail while you peruse the masterful menu: perfect preparations of seafood, slow-roasted meats and one-of-a-kind desserts. Reservations recommended.
The property also offers simple but elegant luxury at its minimalist two- to four-person bungalows (double occupancy US$124). Swish accommodations – decorated with hardwood and soothing tones – surround the glittering saltwater pool.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
There is no public transportation between Tamarindo and these beaches, though surf camps often organize trips. You can also catch a ride on the Avellanas Express, which departs Tamarindo at 10am, 2pm and 5pm, with the first two shuttles going all the way to Playa Negra. To return to Tamarindo, the shuttle departs from Playa Negra at 11am and 3pm, and from Avellanas at 11:15am, 3:15pm and 6pm.
CAR
From Tamarindo, drive 5km inland to the village of Villareal, and turn right on to the dirt road. This road becomes progressively worse as you get further from Tamarindo and it usually requires a 4WD. If you’re not coming from Tamarindo, drive west from Santa Cruz on the paved highway, through 27 de Abril to Paraíso, then follow the signs to the beach of your choice. As always, do not leave valuables in your car, especially at the beaches.
Playa Junquillal
Hard to pronounce and almost as difficult to find, Junquillal (say ‘hoon-kee-yal’) is a 2km-wide gray-sand wilderness beach that’s absolutely stunning and mostly deserted. To the south, a dome boulder crumbles into a jutting rock reef and beyond that is a vast, 200-hectare estuary carved by the Río Nanda Mojo. To the north is a narrow rise of bluffs sprouting clumps of palm trees. Sunsets are downright surreal, with blinding golds, molten oranges and shocking pinks. The sea does swirl with fierce rip currents, however, and when it gets big, surfers descend from Negra. Even when the surf isn’t high, it’s dangerous out there. Don’t let kids or even intermediate swimmers venture out alone.
With far more Ticos than tourists, Junquillal has an inviting authenticity unique in the northern peninsula. The nearest town is 4km inland at Paraíso.
TURTLES
Olive ridley turtles nest in Junquillal from July to November, with a peak in numbers from August to October, but in smaller numbers than at the refuges; Junquillal is also an important nesting site for leatherbacks. Though the area is not officially protected, conservation groups such as Asociacion Vida Verdiazul (%2658-7251; www.verdiazulcr.org; roundabout, Beach Rd) have teamed up with local communities to protect the nesting sites and eliminate poaching.
4Sleeping
El Castillo DivertidoHOTEL$
(%8351-5162, 2658-8428; www.castillodivertido.com; s US$20-30, d US$30-50; pW)
This colorful castle, decked out with crenellated walls and carved masks, is just 100m from the beach, offering panoramic views from its rooftop bar. Take advantage of the one-of-a-kind kayaking tours through the Río Nanda Moja and surrounding mangroves. On Friday nights, all guests are invited to partake of cold drinks and delicious grilled meat at a weekly sunset BBQ.
oMundo Milo EcolodgeBUNGALOW$$
(%2658-7010; www.mundomilo.com; d incl breakfast US$67-77; paWs) S
Attention to detail is paramount at this unique ecolodge. Choose between three fan-cooled (or low-electric air-con), skylit bungalows, surrounded by lush vegetation and styled after a different world region (Africa, Mexico, Persia). The pool is an artful arc overlooking tropical woodland, with monkeys howling, birds chanting and waves crashing in the distance. Lieke, your hostess, is also a wonderful cook.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses depart from Junquillal to Santa Cruz (US$3, 1½ hours) at 6am, 9am, 12:30pm and 4:30pm; you can catch the bus anywhere along the main road. Buses from Santa Cruz to Junquillal depart from the Mercado Municipal at 5am, 10am, 2:30pm and 5:30pm.
CAR
If you’re driving, it’s about 16km by paved road from Santa Cruz to 27 de Abril, and another smooth 17km into town.
From Junquillal, it’s possible to drive 35km south to Nosara via the legendary surf spot of Marbella. However, this is a very rough dirt road for 4WD only and it may be impassable in the rainy season. There are no gas stations on the coastal road and little traffic, so ask locally before setting out. It’s easier to reach beaches south of Junquillal from Nicoya.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
GUAITIL
An interesting excursion from Santa Cruz, Guaitil is a small potter community, where attractive ceramics are made from local clays, using earthy reds, creams and blacks in pre-Columbian Chorotega style. Ceramics are sold outside the potters’ houses and also in San Vicente, 2km beyond Guaitil. If you ask, you can watch part of the potting process, and residents will be happy to give you a few lessons for a small fee. You might also find traditional foods, such as corn tamales and rosquillos (cheese rings), here.
Santa Cruz
POP 12,300
A stop in Santa Cruz, a sabanero (cowboy) town typical of inland Nicoya, provides some local flavor missing from foreign-dominated beach towns. Unfortunately, there aren’t any attention-worthy sights, so most travelers’ experience of Santa Cruz consists of changing buses. However, the town is an important regional administrative center, and a good base for visiting Guaitil. At certain times of the year you can also witness the Guanacaste bull-riding tradition in the city’s bullring. In Costa Rica, the bull is never killed, but brave (or foolhardy!) citizens take their chances dodging them.
In 1993, about three central city blocks burned to the ground in a devastating fire. An important landmark is the vacant-lot-looking field known as Plaza de Los Mangos, which was once a large grassy square with three mango trees. Soon after the fire, the attractive and shady Parque Bernabela Ramos opened 400m south of Plaza de Los Mangos.
4Sleeping
Hotel La PampaHOTEL$
(%2680-0586; Av 5 btwn Calles 2 & Central; s/d from US$36/40; paW)
A good budget option, this peach-tinted hotel is 50m west of the Plaza de Los Mangos. It isn’t all that inspiring from the outside, but the rooms are clean and modern, providing a decent place to lay your head.
La Calle de AlcaláHOTEL$$
(%2680-1515, 2680-0000; www.hotellacalledealcala.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 1 & 3; s/d/ste US$58/77/140; paWs)
With its stucco arches and landscaped garden around a pool, this hotel gets points for design. Carved wooden doors open into small tiled rooms with rattan furnishings. It’s one block due east of the bus terminal; a convenient stopover option.
8Getting There & Away
Santa Cruz is 57km from Liberia and 25km south of Filadelfia on the main peninsular highway. A paved road leads 16km west to 27 de Abril, from where dirt roads continue to Playa Tamarindo, Playa Junquillal and other beaches. There’s a gas station off the main intersection with the highway.