| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Z |
Abbazia di Novacella: 229
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: 449–450
Accademia (Florence): 470, 494–495; eating near, 539–541; reservations, 25, 487–488; sleeping near, 518–519
Accademia (Venice): 48, 59, 77–79; eating near, 119, 122
Accademia Bridge (Venice): 59, 100; eating near, 119
Accademia Musicale Chigiana (Siena): 612
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
A.C. Milan: 278
Acqua alta: 68–69
Agriturismo: 1151–1152. See also specific destinations
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 1150
Airfares (airlines): 23, 25, 1197–1198
Airports: Florence, 466–467; Milan, 327–330; Naples, 956; Perugia/Assisi, 759; Pisa, 576–577; Rome, 946–949; Venice, 126–129; Verona, 166
Alabaster Museum (Volterra): 651
Alabaster Workshop (Volterra): 654–655
Almanac, Italy: 1116
Alpe di Siusi: 206, 218–228; biking, 223, 228; hiking, 219, 223–227; map, 220–221
Alpine Gardens (Stresa): 266
Altar of Peace (Ara Pacis; Rome): 823, 828
Altesino (near Montalcino): 708
Alto Adige: See Dolomites
Amalfi Coast: 18, 1070–1113; maps, 1072, 1078–1079; planning tips, 1071; self-guided tour, 1075–1080; tours, 960–961, 1036, 1075; transportation, 1071–1075. See also Sorrento
Amalfi Town: 1080, 1090–1097; map, 1092
Amalfi Town Cathedral: 1094–1095
Ambrose, Saint: 272, 290, 291, 292, 305–306, 311, 313
American Bookstores: Milan, 278; Rome, 810
American Catholic Church (Rome): 881, 905
Amerigo Vespucci Airport (Florence): 466–467
Amphitheaters (arenas): Assisi, 725–726; Lucca, 578, 583; Pompeii, 1023; Verona, 169–170. See also Colosseum
Anacapri: 1056, 1058, 1065–1068
Anatomy Theater (Padua): 140
Anchovy Festival (Monterosso): 337
Ancient Rome: 804, 839–866; eating near, 936–940; guided tours, 821, 824–825; history of, 848, 854, 1114–1118; maps, 840, 842, 912–913, 1117; nightlife, 903–904; sleeping near, 911–914
Andersen, Hans Christian: 431
Anthony of Padua, Saint: 149–155
Antica Civita: 798
Apartment rentals: 1148–1150
Aperitivo: 171, 186, 322, 544, 658, 923, 1161, 1169
Apps: 26; navigation and maps, 32, 1140, 1193–1194
Aracoeli Church (Rome): 860
Ara di Cesare (Rome): 852
Arch of Constantine (Rome): 823, 845
Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome): 854–855
Arch of Titus (Rome): 847–848
Arco della Pace (Milan): 314
Arco di Tito (Rome): 847–848
“Arena” (Scrovegni) Chapel (Padua): 142–148; map, 144
ArenaMuseOpera (Verona): 177
Arengario Palace (Milan): 297–298
Argenti/Silverworks Museum (Florence): 513
Armory (Venice): 73
Arnikahütte: 225
Arno River: 459, 462, 484, 554, 559
Arsenale (Venice): 87
Arsenal Museum (Amalfi): 1093–1094
Art: history timeline, 1120–1121; Venice Biennale, 87. See also specific artists
“Artisan Lane” (Volterra): 646–647
Art museums: reservations, 25–26; sightseeing tips, 1140–1142. See also specific art museums
Assisi: 17, 602, 719–759; arrival in, 721–724; eating, 756–758; helpful hints, 724–725; information, 720; maps, 721, 722–723, 726–727, 752–753; planning tips, 720; sights, 735–751; sleeping, 752–756; transportation, 721–724, 725, 758–759; walking tours, 725–748
Assisi Olive Wood: 733
Assisi Pinacoteca: 750
ATMs: 1134–1137. See also specific destinations
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 37, 821, 1200
Auditorium Parco della Musica (Rome): 901–902
Augustus: 828, 836, 848, 852, 864, 1065, 1117, 1124
Bagatti Valsecchi Museum (Milan): 281, 310
Bagnoregio: 790–801; eating, 801; helpful hints, 794; maps, 791, 795; sleeping, 799–800; transportation, 791–793, 801
Bagno Vignoni: 679, 713, 716–718
Baia delle Favole (Sestri Levante): 431, 432
Baia del Silenzio (Sestri Levante): 432
Banca Etruria (Montepulciano): 687
Banchi di Sopra (Siena): 616
Banchi di Sotto (Siena): 616
Bancogiro (Venice): 114–115
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money
Baptistery: Florence, 471, 479, 490–491; Milan, 292; Padua, 142; Pisa, 570–571; Siena, 608, 625–626; Verona, 176
Bar Camparino (Milan): 296
Bar Centrale (Riomaggiore): 413, 415, 418
Bardini Garden (Florence): 513
Bargello (Florence): 470, 509–510
Bars and cafés: overview, 1159–1160. See also specific destinations
Bartolomeo, Saint: 291
Basilica Aemilia (Rome): 853
Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi): 735–748; maps, 738, 744; self-guided tour, 737–748
Basilica di San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica
Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi): 748–749
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio (Milan): 280, 305–306
Basilica of Constantine (Rome): 848–849
Basilica of St. Anthony (Padua): 149–155; map, 151
Basilica of St. Clare (Assisi): 731
Basilica of St. Francis (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica Palladiana (Vicenza): 163
Basilica San Pietro (Rome): 822, 871–879; map, 872
Baths of Diocletian (Rome): 823, 897–898
Baths of the Forum (Pompeii): 1017–1018
Baveno: 264
Beaches: Atrani, 1096; Bonassola, 426; Capri, 1056, 1060, 1068; Cinque Terre, 339; Monterosso, 352, 364; Riomaggiore, 415; Vernazza, 378, 383; Lake Como, 244, 253; Lake Maggiore, 268–269; Levanto, 424–425; Marina di Praia, 1077; Marina di Puolo, 1045; Meta Beach, 1045; Paraggi, 441, 447, 449; Porto Venere, 453; Positano, 1086, 1087; Punta del Capo, 1045; Santa Margherita, 440–441; Sestri Levante, 431, 432; Sorrento, 1045; Venice, 49, 61, 85
Beccafumi, Domenico: 619–620
Beer: 202–203, 585, 903, 932, 1169
Bella figura: 10
Bellagio: 250–256, 258, 259; eating, 255–256; helpful hints, 251; information, 250–251; map, 252; sights/activities, 251–254; sleeping, 254–255; transportation, 251
Bellini (cocktail): 111
Bellini, Giovanni: 76, 77, 79, 82, 148, 162, 178, 990
Bellini Theater (Naples): 974
Bell towers (campaniles): Castelrotto, 209–210; Florence, 471, 478, 490; Pisa, 564–567; Positano, 1085–1086; Venice, 48, 64, 75–76
Belluno: 228
Bergamo Airport (Milan): 330
Bernini, Giovanni Lorenzo: 613, 622, 623, 1125; in Rome, 834, 838–839, 869, 876–877, 890, 893–894, 898
Beverages: 1167–1172. See also Wine and vineyards
Biking (bike rentals): Alpe di Siusi, 223, 228; Bolzano, 193; Compatsch, 223; Florence, 469, 473; Levanto, 424, 426; Lucca, 579, 582, 590–591; Milan, 284; Orvieto, 765; Rome, 890; Santa Margherita, 436; Sestri Levante, 431
Bindelweg: 229
Bishop’s Palace (Pienza): 699
Blue Grotto (Capri): 1061–1063
Blue Marlin Bar (Vernazza): 377, 385, 390, 393
Boating: Amalfi Town, 1093; Capri, 1057; Cinque Terre, 339, 415; Levanto, 424; Positano, 1087; Sorrento, 1045–1046; Vernazza, 383–384. See also Kayaking
Boat travel: map, 1179; Amalfi Coast, 1003, 1005, 1074; Capri, 1003, 1005, 1057, 1059, 1061–1063, 1069; Cinque Terre, 340, 341, 353, 364, 383–384, 405; Civitavecchia, 949; Lake Como, 234, 235–236, 238, 244, 251, 253–254, 257–259; Lake Maggiore, 264; Lake Orta, 270; Levanto, 430–431; Livorno, 550–551; Naples, 955–956, 1003, 1005; Portofino, 446; Porto Venere, 451–452, 456; Positano, 1081; Rome, 949; Santa Margherita, 445; Sestri Levante, 435; Sorrento, 1033–1034, 1054–1055; Venice, 42–46, 56, 86–87, 127–128, 129; Grand Canal cruise, 50–61
Boboli Garden (Florence): 513
Bolzano: 190–205; eating, 202–205; helpful hints, 193; information, 191; map, 194–195; sights/activities, 196–200; sleeping, 200–202; transportation, 191, 193, 205; walking tour, 193–196
Bolzano Cathedral: 194–195
Bolzano Dominican Church: 198
Bonassola: 426–427; beaches, 426; hiking, 345, 350–351, 426–427
Books, recommended: 1204–1208
Borghese Gallery (Rome): 822, 890–894; map, 892
Borghese Gardens (Rome): 890
Borgo Marinaro (Naples): 993
Borgo Stretto (Pisa): 560
Borromeo, Charles: 266–267, 290–291
Borromeo Islands: 263, 266–270; map, 265
Borsa (Milan): 303
Botticelli, Sandro: 302, 506–507
Boy Extracting a Thorn: 859
Brancacci Chapel (Florence): 471, 513–514
Branca Tower (Milan): 313
Bravio delle Botti (Montepulciano): 682, 686
Breakfast: overview, 1155
Brera (Milan): eating, 322, 325–326; nightlife, 317
Brera Art Gallery (Milan): 280, 309–310
Bressanone: 229
Bridge of St. Antonio (Bolzano): 200
Bridge of Sighs (Venice): 48, 60–61, 73, 76
Brindisi: transportation, 125, 327, 549, 946, 1006
Brixen: 229
Brothel (Pompeii): 1022
Brunelleschi, Filippo: 478–479, 489, 494, 496, 497, 511, 545, 868
Brunello di Montalcino: 533, 679, 702, 705–708, 710, 713–714
Budgeting: 23
Burano: 49, 83–84, 88; eating, 123; events, 88; map, 84–85
Buses (bus travel): 1189–1190; map, 1179. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 1133
Cable cars (funiculars): Alpe di Siusi, 219, 222; Capri, 1059, 1060, 1067–1068; Castelrotto, 213; Compatsch, 219, 222; Naples, 963, 994–995; Oberbozen, 198–199; Puflatsch, 225; Stresa, 266
Cabs: 1190; tipping, 1138. See also specific destinations
Cadenabbia: 260
Ca’ d’Oro (Venice): 55–56
Cafés: overview, 1159–1160. See also specific destinations
Caffè Florian (Venice): 74–75
Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua): 138–139
Caffè Tazza d’Oro (Rome): 835
Ca’ Foscari (Venice): 58
Calata Porta di Massa: 955–956, 1003
Calatrava Bridge (Venice): 54
Caligula’s Palace (Rome): 851
Calvario (Castelrotto): 213
Campaniles: See Bell towers
Campidoglio (Rome): 823
Campo de’ Fiori (Rome): 829, 832; eating near, 925, 930; market, 829, 900; sleeping near, 914–916
Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa): See Field of Miracles
Campo San Barnaba (Venice): eating, 120–121
Campo Santa Margarita (Venice): 121
Campo Santa Maria Formosa (Venice): 96–97, 118
Camposanto Cemetery (Pisa): 571–572
Canal District (Milan): 281, 314–315, 317; eating, 326
Canals of Venice: See Venice canals
Canazei: 229
Cannaregio (Venice): 30, 54; eating, 109–115
Cannaregio Canal (Venice): 54
Canoeing: See Kayaking
Canova, Antonio: 74, 82, 148, 258, 259, 268, 302, 309, 893, 991
Cantina della Talosa (Montepulciano): 692
Ca’ Pesaro (Venice): 55
Capitoline Hill (Rome): 856–859; map, 858
Capitoline Museums (Rome): 822, 857–859
Capitoline She-Wolf: 859
Capodanno Pisano (Pisa): 557
Capodimonte Museum (Naples): 989–991
Capodimonte Park (Naples): 992
Capote, Truman: 448
Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua): 142–148; map, 144
Cappella Sansevero (Naples): 978, 981–983
Cappelle Medicee (Florence): 470, 498
Capri: 18, 1055–1069; helpful hints, 1060; information, 1058; maps, 1032, 1056, 1059; planning tips, 1055–1057; sights/activities, 1061–1068; tours, 960–961, 1036, 1057, 1060; transportation, 1057–1061, 1069
Capri Cathedral: 1064
Capri City Hall: 1064
Capri Town: 1056, 1058, 1063–1065
Capuchin Church (Monterosso): 362–363
Caravaggio: 302, 310, 508; in Naples, 979, 983–984, 991; in Rome, 828, 834, 868, 894
Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice): 49, 58, 59, 80
Car insurance: 1192–1193
Car leasing: 1193
Carracci, Annibale: 990
Carrara: 455–456
Carriage rides, in Compatsch: 223
Car travel (driving): 1194–1197; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 1196, 1197; navigation options, 1193–1194; road signs, 1195. See also specific destinations
Casa Buonarroti (Florence): 511
Casa del Fauno (Pompeii): 1020–1021
Casa del Poeta Tragico (Pompeii): 1019
Casa di Menandro (Pompeii): 1023
Casa Rossa (Capri): 1066
Casinò, in Venice: 55
Castello (Venice): 30
Castello Banfi-Poggio alle Mura (near Montalcino): 708
Castello Brown (Portofino): 448
Castello di Vezio (Varenna): 243
Castello Doria (Porto Venere): 453
Castello Sforzesco (Milan): 280, 311–313
Castel Nuovo (Naples): 986
Castel Roncolo (Bolzano): 200
Castelrotto: 206–218; eating, 217–218; helpful hints, 207–208; information, 206; map, 207; nightlife, 214; sights/activities, 213–214; sleeping, 214–217; transportation, 208, 218; walking tour, 209–212
Castelrotto Bell Tower: 209–210
Castelrotto Church: 210
Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples): 995
Castel Tasso: 229–230
Castelvecchio (Verona): 177–178
Catacombs of Priscilla (Rome): 823, 894–895
Catacombs of San Gennaro (Naples): 992
Cathedrals: See Duomos
Catherine of Siena, Saint: 615, 621, 627, 628
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo
Cattelan, Maurizio: 303
Cattolica University (Milan): 306
Cellini, Benvenuto: 483, 484, 509, 510
Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 1173–1177
Cemetery of the Fountains (Naples): 992
Central Market (Florence): 498–499, 530–531
Cerasi Chapel (Rome): 828
Certosa di San Giacomo (Capri): 1064
Certosa e Museo di San Martino (Naples): 995–996
“Chapel of Maradona” (Naples): 978
Chapel of the Incarcerated (Civita): 798–800
Chapel of the Madonna del Voto (Siena): 623
Chapel of the Reliquaries (Padua): 153–154
Chianti (region): 713, 716; tours, 645
Chigi Chapel (Rome): 828
Chigi-Saracini Palace (Siena): 612
Christmas market (Bolzano): 194
Christ of the Abyss: 450
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 1122; sightseeing tips, 1142–1143. See also specific churches and cathedrals
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona (near Montalcino): 707
Ciampino Airport (Rome): 946, 949
Cicchetti, in Venice: 112–115, 116–117; guided tours, 47
Cimabue, Giovanni: 505–506, 568, 742–743
Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Naples): 992
Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 281, 315
Cinque Terre: 12, 331–419; at a glance, 333; cards, 342–343; crowd-beating tips, 341; eating overview, 354–355; events, 337; experiences, 405; flood and recovery, 361; helpful hints, 336–337; information, 334–335; maps, 332, 346–347; planning tips, 332–334; Riviera towns near, 420–457; sleeping overview, 352–353; transportation, 335, 337–342. See also Beaches, Cinque Terre; Hiking, Cinque Terre; and specific destinations
Cinque Terre Main Coastal Trail: 342, 345–351; map, 346–347
Cinque Terre National Park: 334–335, 343, 348, 350, 356, 396, 423
Circumvesuviana Train: 955, 1004; Herculaneum, 1024; Naples, 954, 1004, 1006; Pompeii, 1006, 1008; Sorrento, 1033, 1053; theft alert, 957
Civic Museums: See Museo Civico
Civita di Bagnoregio: 17, 602, 790–801; eating, 800–801; helpful hints, 794; maps, 791, 795; sleeping, 799–800; transportation, 791–793, 801; walking tour, 794–799
Civita di Bagnoregio Church: 796–797
Civitavecchia: 949
Clare, Saint: 728, 730, 748–749, 750; Basilica (Assisi), 731; biographical sketch, 732
Clock towers: Lucca, 586; Montalcino, 705; Montepulciano, 687; Orvieto, 767; Venice, 60, 64
Clothing sizes: 1211
Coffee: 1168–1169
Col dei Rossi Belvedere: 229
Colonna del Marzocco (Montepulciano): 686
Colosseum (Rome): 822, 840–845; eating near, 939–940; map, 842; sleeping near, 911–914
Columbus, Christopher: 439, 734
Column of Phocas (Rome): 855
Column of the Immaculate Conception (Rome): 838
Como, Lake: 232–233, 237, 240–242, 250, 251, 257–262; beaches, 244, 253; boat travel, 234, 235–236, 238, 244, 251, 253–254, 257–259; kayaking, 253–254; maps, 233, 236
Constantine: 272, 859, 1118, 1124; Arch of (Rome), 823, 845; Basilica of (Rome), 848–849
Consulates: 1201
Contucci Cantina (Montepulciano): 690–691
Cooking classes: Florence, 473, 474, 547; Lucca, 582; Manarola, 405; Montalcino, 681; Montepulciano, 680, 682; Paestum, 1113; Varenna, 245; Volterra, 660
Corniglia: 333, 376, 394–398; eating, 398; events, 337; hiking, 344, 348–349, 382, 397; information, 394; map, 395; sleeping, 397–398; transportation, 337, 394–395; walking tour, 395–397
Corno: 979
Corpus Domini (Orvieto): 765, 767, 774
Correr Museum (Venice): 48, 74–75
Corsignano Parish Church: 701, 714
Corso (Montepulciano): 684, 686–688
Corso Cavour (Orvieto): 767, 768, 769, 789–790
Corso Colombo (Sestri Levante): 432
Corso Doria (Santa Margherita): 439
Corso il Rossellino (Pienza): 698
Corso Italia (Pisa): 559, 1040
Corso Italia (Sorrento): 1043
Corso Marconi (Santa Margherita): 439
Corso Porta Borsari (Verona): 170–171
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (Rome): 833
Cortina: 228
Costa dell’Incrociata (Siena): 617
Costs of trip: 23
Costume Gallery (Florence): 513
Crete Senesi: 717
Cristo degli Abissi: 450
Crivelli, Carlo: 309–310
Crown of Thorns: 162
Cruises: See Boat travel
Cuisine: 6, 7–8, 1162–1167; Cinque Terre, 354–355; courses, 1156–1157; Florentine, 7, 532–533; Lake District, 7–8; Lucca, 595; Milanese, 7, 322; Naples, 8; Roman, 8, 926–927; Tirolean, 204; Tuscan, 532–533; Venetian, 7, 110–111; Volterran, 661. See also Cooking classes; Eating; Gelato; Wine and vineyards
Curia (Pompei): 1015
Curia (Rome): 853
Currency and exchange: 1134–1135
Customs House (Venice): 60, 79
Customs regulations: 1139–1140
Daddi, Bernardo: 502
Dante Alighieri: 145, 173, 483, 778, 974–975, 1206
David (Bernini): 893–894
David (Michelangelo): 470, 482, 494–495, 894
Da Vinci, Leonardo: See Leonardo da Vinci
De Chirico, Giorgio: 298
Della Quercia, Jacopo: 589, 626; Fountain of Joy, 608, 610, 627
Della Robbia brothers: 494, 496, 515, 691, 705
Della Scala (Scaligeri) Family tombs (Verona): 174
De’ Ricci Cantine (Montepulciano): 692
Devotional Column (Verona): 170
Diefenbach, Karl Wilhelm: 1064
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Diocesan Museum (Assisi): 730
Discounts: 1134
Doge’s Palace (Venice): 36, 48, 60, 64–65, 71–73; map, 72
Dolce Vita stroll (Rome): 823, 826–828; eating, 935–936; map, 827
Dolomites: 15, 17, 188–231; about, 211; map, 189; planning tips, 189–190. See also specific destinations
Dominican Church (Bolzano): 198
Donatello: 81, 150–151, 622, 624; in Florence, 481, 491, 494, 497, 499, 508, 510
Dopolavoro La Foce: 713, 715–716
Doriforo: 972
Dorsoduro (Venice): 30, 77–80; eating, 118–121; sleeping, 100–104
Drinks: 1167–1172. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations
Ducal Palace (Venice): 48, 71–73; map, 72
Duccio di Buoninsegna: 505–506, 618, 619, 622, 624–625
Duomos: architecture, 1122; sightseeing tips, 1142–1143; Florence, 470, 476, 478–479, 488–490; Milan, 280, 285–292, 294–295; Montepulciano, 691; Naples, 983; Orvieto, 766–767, 771–778; Pienza, 699–700; Pisa, 567–569; Ravello, 1098–1099; San Gimignano, 669; Siena, 608, 613–615, 620–624; Verona, 175–176; Volterra, 648
Durazzo Park (Santa Margherita): 440
Dying Gaul: 859
East Rome: 804–805, 895–898; maps, 896–897
Eataly (Florence), 534–535; (Milan), 325; (Rome), 941
Eating: 1153–1167; budget, 1159–1162; ordering tips, 1157–1158; pricing, 1154; restaurant phrases, 1215; seasonal produce, 1163; tipping, 1138, 1156. See also Cooking classes; Cuisine; Gelato; Markets; and specific destinations
Economy of Italy: 1116, 1129–1130
Egyptian obelisk (Rome): 836
Ekklesiasterion (Paestum): 1109
Electricity: 1133–1134
Embassies: 1201
Emerald Grotto: 1078–1079
Engelrast: 225
Enoteca Oreste (Verona): 171
Ercolano (Herculaneum): 1024–1028; map, 1026
Eremitani (Padua): 148–149
Eremo delle Carceri (Mount Subasio): 751
Etruscans: best sights, 657; map, 657; overview, 656–657. See also specific sights and museums
Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 645–646
Etruscan Museums: Orvieto, 779–780; Volterra, 652–654
Etruscan Necropolis (Orvieto): 781
Etruscan Tunnel (Civita): 798
Euro currency: 1134–1135
Falconry: 243
Farmhouse accommodations (agriturismo): overview, 1151–1152. See also specific destinations
Farnese Collection (Naples): 967–968
Faro (Capri): 1068
Feast of Our Lady of Good Health (Venice): 88
Feltrinelli: 133, 278, 464, 604, 810, 957
Ferries: See Boat travel
Festa di Calendimaggio (Assisi): 724
Festa di San Francesco (Assisi): 724
Festivals: 1202–1203. See also specific destinations
Field of Miracles (Pisa): 553, 561–573; map, 563; tickets, 562
Films, recommended: 1208–1210
Fiordo: 1077–1078
Firenze: See Florence
Firenze Card: 25, 463, 467, 485–487
Fish markets: Levanto, 423; Naples, 993; Pisa, 557, 560; Santa Margherita, 439–440; Venice, 56, 80, 124
Fiumelatte: 244–245
Fiumicino Airport (Rome): 946–948
Flavio Gioia: 1091
Florence: 12, 458–551; at a glance, 470–471; arrival in, 463–467; eating, 528–549; excursion areas, 552–597; festivals, 1202–1203; helpful hints, 467–469; information, 463; layout of, 460, 462; planning tips, 458–459; reservations, 25, 487–488; shopping, 515–516; sights, 485–515; sleeping, 516–528; tours, 473–475; transportation, 463–467, 469, 472, 549–551; walking tour, 475–484
Florence Duomo: 470, 476, 478–479, 488–490; climbing the dome, 471, 489–490; eating near, 534–535; guided tours, 489; Museum, 470, 491–494; sleeping near, 517–519
Fondaco dei Tedeschi (Venice): 37, 56, 80
Fontana Vecchia (Vernazza): 377
Fonte Gaia (Siena): 608, 610, 627
Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Fish markets; Gelato; Markets; Olive oil; Panforte; Pecorino cheese; Pesto; Speck; Wine and vineyards
Foreigners’ Club (Sorrento): 1033, 1046, 1051
Fornillo Beach (Positano): 1086, 1087
Foro Romano (Roman forums): Assisi, 749–750; Paestum, 1108; Pompeii, 1013, 1015; Rome, 822, 845–855; map, 846
Fortezza di Montalcino: 704, 710
Forums of Augustus and Nerva (Rome): 864
Fountain of Joy (Siena): 608, 610, 627
Four Rivers Fountain (Rome): 834
Framura: 345, 350–351, 421, 427
Francis of Assisi, Saint: 719, 728, 748–749, 750–751; Basilica (Assisi), 735–748; biographical sketch, 729; message of, 740–741
Frari Church (Venice): 48, 80–82
Freud, Sigmund: 198
Freudpromenade (Bolzano): 199
Funiculars: See Cable cars
Funivia del Renon (Bolzano): 198–199
Galileo Galilei: 140, 483, 495, 509, 511, 561, 568
Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa): 576–577
Galileo Science Museum (Florence): 470, 509
Galleria Alberto Sordi (Rome): 837, 899
Galleria Borbonica (Naples): 987
Galleria Borghese (Rome): 822, 890–894; map, 892
Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence): See Uffizi Gallery
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence): See Accademia
Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice): See Accademia
Galleria Principe di Napoli (Naples): 973
Galleria Umberto I (Naples): 954, 986
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan): 280, 296–297
Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza): 162–163
Gallerie d’Italia (Milan): 281, 301–302
Gallery of Modern Art (Florence): 513
Garibaldi, Giuseppe: 314, 360, 559, 975, 1127
Gates of Paradise (Ghiberti): 471, 479, 490–494
Gelato: 1166–1167; Bellagio, 256; Bolzano, 200; Corniglia, 396; Florence, 533, 540; Lucca, 597; Manarola, 408; Milan, 324, 326; Naples, 980; Orvieto, 789; Pisa, 559–560; Rome, 934–935, 939, 944; San Gimignano, 674; Santa Margherita Ligure, 444; Sestri Levante, 434; Siena, 637, 638–639; Sorrento, 1052; Varenna, 249; Venice, 124–125; Vernazza, 393; Verona, 175, 187; Volterra, 662
Gentile da Fabriano: 309
Geological Museum (Civita): 796
German Exchange (Venice): 56
Gesù Church (Montepulciano): 688
Gesù Church (Rome): 868–869
Gesù Nuovo Church (Naples): 977, 980–981
Ghiberti, Lorenzo: 481, 626; Bronze Doors (Florence), 471, 479, 490–494
Ghirlandaio, Domenico: 669
Giacometti, Alberto: 654
Giardinetti Reali (Venice): 36–37, 118, 124
Giardini di Augusto (Capri): 1064
Giardini di Cataldo (Sorrento): 1043
Giardino Giusti (Verona): 179
Giglio Theater (Lucca): 588
Gioco del Ponte (Pisa): 557–558
Giordano, Luca: 499
Giotto di Bondone: 148, 505–506, 750; Bell Tower (Florence), 471, 478, 490; biographical sketch, 147; St. Francis Basilica (Assisi), 735–736, 743–747; Scrovegni Chapel (Padua), 142, 145–148
Gittana: eating, 248
Giudecca Canal (Venice): 118, 121, 123
Giudecca Island (Venice): 60, 122–123
Giusti Garden (Verona): 179
Glass Museum (Murano): 83
Glurns: 230–231
Golden Altarpiece (Venice): 71
Gondolas, in Venice: 86–87
Government of Italy: 1116, 1129–1130
Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Naples): 986
Grand Canal (Venice): 30, 37, 50–61; eating alongside, 114–115; map, 52–53
Gran Teatro alla Fenice (Venice): 90
Grassi Palace (Venice): 58–59, 79
Greco, Emilio: 773, 779; Museum (Orvieto), 779
Greek Memorial Tomb (Paestum): 1107–1108
Grödner Tal: 228–229
Groppo: 349
Grotta Azzurra (Capri): 1061–1063
Grotta dello Smeraldo: 1078–1079
Guggenheim (Peggy) Collection (Venice): 48, 59, 79
Guinigi Tower (Lucca): 591
Guvano Beach (Cinque Terre): 349
Haring, Keith: 558
Harry’s American Bar (Venice): 91
Hemingway, Ernest: 59, 91, 265–266
Herculaneum: 1024–1028; map, 1026
Hermitage (Mount Subasio): 751
Hiking: Alpe di Siusi, 219, 223–227; Amalfi Town, 1095–1096; Assisi, 751; Atrani, 1096; Capri, 1060, 1068; Cinque Terre, 342–352; at a glance, 344–345; Bonassola, 345, 350–351; Corniglia, 344, 348–349, 397; guided, 343–344; Manarola, 344, 347–349, 405; map, 346–347; Monterosso, 344, 345–346, 349, 350, 363; Riomaggiore, 344, 345–348, 414; Sciacchetrail, 337, 345, 351; Vernazza, 344, 349, 363, 382–383; Volastra, 344, 348–349; Dolomites, 200, 206, 213, 216, 223–227; Lake Como region, 243, 244–245, 251, 253, 261–262; Lake Maggiore region, 265–266; Levanto, 345, 350, 351, 426–427; Orvieto, 781–782; Portofino, 446–447, 449; Porto Venere, 345, 351, 453; Ravello, 1096, 1100; San Gimignano, 669–670; Sestri Levante, 431
Hill towns of central Italy: map, 603; overview, 602–603; sleeping overview, 603; transportation, 602–603. See also specific towns
History: 1114–1129; timeline, 1120–1121
Holidays: 1202–1203
Horse (da Vinci): 281, 315–316
Horseback riding: 208
Horse-drawn carriage rides, in Compatsch: 223
Hospital of the Innocents (Florence): 496
Hostels: overview, 1151. See also specific destinations
Hotels: money-saving tips, 1143–1145; overview, 1145–1148; reservations, 1148–1149. See also specific destinations
Hotel Wolf (Castelrotto): 212, 215
House of Juliet (Verona): 172–173
House of Menander (Pompeii): 1023
House of the Faun (Pompeii): 1020–1021
House of the Tragic Poet (Pompeii): 1019
House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome): 850
House of the Vettii (Pompei): 1021
Ice cream: See Gelato
Ice Man: 196–198
Il Campo (Siena): 599, 608, 609–610, 617; eating, 636–637; sleeping, 628–629
Il Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 281, 315
Imperial Forums (Rome): 822, 861–865; map, 861; sound-and-light shows, 865, 901
Information sources: 1131–1132. See also specific destinations
Inter Milan: 278
Internet security: 1177
Isola Bella (Lake Maggiore): 263, 266–268
Isola Madre (Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 269–270
Isola Superiore (Pescatori; Lake Maggiore): 263, 268
Italian Parliament (Rome): 836
Italian restaurant phrases: 1215
Italian Riviera: See Cinque Terre; Riviera
Italian survival phrases: 1214
Itineraries: 19–22
Jewish Ghetto (Venice): 54
Jewish Quarter (Rome): 859
John Paul II, Pope: 651, 878, 879, 1039
John XXIII, Pope: 876
Juliet’s House (Verona): 172–173
Julius Caesar: 832, 848, 852, 863, 1115, 1117, 1124; Temple of (Rome), 852
Kastelruth: See Castelrotto
Kastelruther Spatzen-Laden (Castelrotto): 210, 212
Kayaking (canoeing): Cinque Terre, 339, 415; Lake Como, 253–254; Levanto, 424
Klobenstein: 199
Kloster Neustift: 229
Kornplatz (Bolzano): 195
La Biennale (Venice): 87
Lace Museum (Burano): 84
La Fenice Opera House (Venice): 90
La Foce Gardens: 679, 712–713, 715; eating and sleeping, 682, 715–716
Lake Como region: 232–262; maps, 233, 236; planning tips, 233–234
Lake District: 15, 232–271; map, 233. See also specific destinations
Lake Maggiore region: 263–270; map, 265
Lakes: See specific lakes
Language: 28; German, 192; online translation tip, 1134; restaurant phrases, 1215; survival phrases, 1214
Language barrier: 1173
Largo Taragio (Corniglia): 396–397
La Rinascente: Florence, 543; Milan, 316, 323; Rome, 899
La Salute Church (Venice): 49, 59, 60, 79
La Scala Opera House and Museum (Milan): 280, 299–301
La Spezia: 421, 451, 454–457; map, 455
La Strada dei Santuari: 351–352
Last Supper, The (Leonardo): 280, 284, 306–309
Laubengasse (Bolzano): 196
La Vena di Vino (Volterra): 655
Leaning Tower of Pisa: 564–567
Leather, shopping for, in Florence: 510, 511, 516
Lemon Grove Garden (Sorrento): 1043
Leonardo da Vinci: 299, 303, 304, 586; Horse (Milan), 281, 315–316; The Last Supper (Milan), 280, 284, 306–309; National Science and Technology Museum (Milan), 281
Leonardo da Vinci National Science and Technology Museum (Milan): 281, 306
Lerici: 451
Levanto: 421, 422–431; beaches, 424–425; eating, 429–430; helpful hints, 423–424; hiking, 345, 350, 351, 426–427; information, 423; map, 425; sights/activities, 424–427; sleeping, 427–429; transportation, 423, 430–431
Lifts: See Cable cars
Limoncello: 1041, 1043, 1044, 1076, 1170
Linate Airport (Milan): 329–330
Linens, shopping for: 1087–1088
Livorno: 550–551
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence): 482–483
Loggia della Mercanzia (Siena): 616
Lombardy: See Milan
Lorenzetti brothers: 618, 619, 742, 743
L.O.V.E. (Milan): 303
Lubriano: 793
Lucca: 17, 577–597; eating, 594–597; helpful hints, 579, 582; information, 578; maps, 580–581, 584; planning tips, 578; sights, 590–592; sleeping, 592–594; tours, 582; transportation, 578–579, 597; walking tour, 582–590
Lucca Cathedral Museum: 589–590
Lucca Clock Tower: 586
Luini, Bernardino: 304
Lungomare (Naples): 993–994
Machiavelli, Niccolò: 483, 511, 1205
Madonna del Voto Chapel (Siena): 623
Madonna di Montenero: 414
Madonna di Reggio: 363, 377, 383
Madonna di Vitaleta Chapel: 714
MADRE (Naples): 988
Maggiore, Lake: 263–270; beaches, 268–269; boat travel, 264; map, 265
Mail: 1178. See also specific destinations
Malpensa Airport (Milan): 327–329
Manarola: 333, 399–408; beaches, 402; eating, 407–408; events, 337; hiking, 344, 347–349, 405; information, 399; map, 400–401; sleeping, 405–407; transportation, 335, 399–400; walking tour, 401–405
Manarola Cemetery: 404
Manarola Church: 403
Manarola Harbor: 401–402
Mantegna, Andrea: 78, 178, 309, 990
Maps: apps and navigation tools, 32, 1140, 1193–1194. See also Map Index
Maradona (Diego) Chapel (Naples): 978
Marble Museum (Carrara): 455
Marco Polo Airport (Venice): 126–127
Maretsch Castle (Bolzano): 200
Marina di Praia: 1077
Marina di Puolo: 1045
Marina Grande (Capri): 1058, 1060; map, 1059
Marina Grande (Sorrento): 1033, 1037–1039, 1042, 1045; eating, 1052–1053; map, 1038
Marina Piccola (Sorrento): 1033, 1037, 1044–1045, 1054–1055
Marinzen Lift (Castelrotto): 213
Mark, Saint: See St. Mark’s Basilica
Markets: seasonal produce, 1163; Assisi, 724; Bagnoregio, 794; Bellagio, 251; Bolzano, 193, 194, 196, 203; Castelrotto, 208; Florence, 498–499, 502, 516, 530–531; Levanto, 423; Lucca, 579; Milan, 298, 317, 324–325; Montalcino, 704; Montepulciano, 684; Monterosso, 358; Naples, 976, 993; Orvieto, 765; Padua, 132, 136, 155; Pienza, 698; Pisa, 557, 560; Rome, 829, 900, 944; San Gimignano, 665; Santa Margherita, 439–440; Sestri Levante, 431; Siena, 604; Varenna, 240; Venice, 56, 80, 124; Vernazza, 373; Verona, 171; Volterra, 644. See also Fish markets
Martini, Simone: 618, 619, 742, 743, 779, 991
Massages, in Cinque Terre: 359, 376
Mastrojanni (near Montalcino): 706–707
Maurizio Tower (Orvieto): 767
Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome): 828
Meazza Stadium (Milan): 278
Medical emergencies: 1132, 1201
Medici Chapels (Florence): 470, 498
Medici Fortress and Archaeological Park (Volterra): 658
Medici-Riccardi Palace (Florence): 471, 499
Medieval Festival (Volterra): 644
Menaggio: 261–262
Mendel Haus (Castelrotto): 210
Mercato Centrale (Florence): 498–499, 530–531
Mercato Monti (Rome): 900
Mercato Nuovo (Florence): 502, 516
Mercato Rialto (Venice): 56, 124; eating, 112–115
Mercato Trionfale (Rome): 900, 944
Mergellina (Naples): 994
Meta Beach: 1045
Metric system: 1210–1211
Metro: Milan, 278–279; Naples, 954, 956, 960–963; Rome, 813, 818–819
Michelangelo Buonarroti: 455, 476, 478–479, 481, 489, 494, 497, 508, 613, 621–622, 687, 828, 832, 857, 860, 868, 875–876, 893, 967, 990, 1123, 1124–1125; David (Florence), 470, 482, 494–495, 894; House (Florence), 511; Medici Chapels (Florence), 470, 498; Moses (Rome), 823, 864–865; Pietà Rondanini (Milan), 312; Sistine Chapel (Rome), 885–889; Tomb (Florence), 511; Uffizi Gallery (Florence), 507–508; walking tour, in Florence, 474
Milan: 15, 272–330; at a glance, 280–281; arrival in, 275–276; eating, 322–326; helpful hints, 277–278; information, 275; maps, 273, 279, 282–283, 286, 320–321; nightlife, 317; planning tips, 274; vs. Rome, 276–277; shopping, 316–317; sights, 285–316; sleeping, 317–322; tours, 284–285; transportation, 275–276, 278–279, 284, 327–330
Milan Archaeological Museum: 304
Milan City Hall: 298
Milan Duomo: 280, 285–292; eating near, 322–324; map, 289; Museum, 280, 292–294; rooftop, 294–295; self-guided tour, 287–292; shopping near, 316–317; sleeping near, 318
Milan Pinacoteca Ambrosiana: 280, 302–303
“Millstone Square” (Vernazza): 376
Minghetti, Marco: 833
MoDo City Museum (Orvieto): 778–779
Monastery of San Giacomo (Capri): 1064
Mondo Guide: 960–961, 963–964, 1009–1010, 1036, 1057, 1075
Money: 1134–1140; budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Montalcino: 602, 679, 702–711; eating, 709–710; information, 703–704; map, 703; sights, 704–708; sleeping, 681–682, 708–709; transportation, 704, 711; wine and wineries, 533, 679, 702, 705–708, 710, 713–714
Montalcino City Hall: 704–705
Montalcino Museums: 705
Monte dei Paschi (Siena): 616–617
Monte Palatino (Rome): 822, 856
Montepulciano: 602, 679, 682–695; eating, 693–695; helpful hints, 684; information, 683; map, 685; sights/activities, 690–692; sleeping, 682, 693; transportation, 683–684, 695; walking tour, 684–690
Montepulciano Duomo: 691
Montepulciano Town Hall: 688–689
Monterosso al Mare: 333, 355–372; beach, 364; eating, 369–371; events, 337; experiences, 363–364; helpful hints, 358–359; hiking, 344, 345–346, 349, 350, 363, 382–383, 426; information, 355–356; map, 356–357; nightlife, 365; sleeping, 365–368; transportation, 335, 357–358, 372; walking tour, 359–363
Monterosso al Mare Cemetery: 363
Monte Solaro (Capri): 1056, 1058, 1067–1068
Monti (Rome): 804, 936–937; eating, 936–939; nightlife, 903–904; shopping, 899, 900
Monticchiello: 714–715; eating, 694–695
Monumental Cemetery (Milan): 281, 315
Moses (Michelangelo): 823, 864–865
Mountain lifts: See Cable cars
Mount Mottarone: 266
Mount Vesuvius: 1007, 1015, 1017, 1028–1030
Movies, recommended: 1208–1210
Munich: transportation, 125, 205, 218, 327, 946
Murano: 49, 83; events, 88; map, 84–85; shopping, 83, 89
Musei Capitolini (Rome): 822, 857–859
Musei Civici agli Eremitani (Padua): 148–149
Musei di Montalcino: 705
Musei Vaticani (Rome): 822, 879–889; map, 882
Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia): 455
Museo Archeologico (Naples): 964–972; eating near, 1002; map, 966
Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige (Bolzano): 196–198
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Orvieto: 779
Museobottega della Tarsialignea (Sorrento): 1044
Museo Civico: Naples, 986; Orvieto, 779–780; Padua, 148–149; San Gimignano, 670–671; Siena, 608, 617–618
Museo Civico del Marmo (Carrara): 455
Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico (Orvieto): 779–780
Museo Correr (Venice): 48, 74–75
Museo del Duomo (Milan): 280, 292–294
Museo della Cattedrale (Lucca): 589–590
Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome): 823, 828
Museo delle Sinopie (Pisa): 572
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Florence): 470, 491–494
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Orvieto): 778–779
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Pisa): 572–573
Museo dell’Opera e Panorama (Siena): 608, 624–625
Museo del Novecento (Milan): 280, 296, 297–298
Museo del Parco (Portofino): 449
Museo di Capodimonte (Naples): 989–991
Museo Diefenbach (Capri): 1064
Museo Diocesano (Assisi): 730
Museo di San Marco (Florence): 470, 497
Museo Emilio Greco (Orvieto): 779
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra): 652–654
Museo Galilei e Istituto di Storia della Scienza (Florence): 470, 509
Museo Naturalistico Archeologico (Vicenza): 162
Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Florence): 470, 509–510
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Tecnica “Leonardo da Vinci” (Milan): 281, 306
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Rome): 822, 895–897
Museo Pietà Rondanini (Milan): 312
Museums: sightseeing tips, 1140–1142. See also specific museums
Museum of Ancient Art (Milan): 312–313
Museum of Inlaid Wood (Sorrento): 1044
Museum of San Marco (Florence): 470, 497
Museum of the Imperial Forums (Rome): 863
Museum of the Risorgimento: Milan, 281, 310; Padua, 139
Museum of the Sinopias (Pisa): 572
Music: See Opera
Musica a Palazzo (Venice): 90–91
Music on the Rocks (Positano): 1086–1087, 1088
Mussolini, Benito: 188, 192, 267, 273, 295, 296, 297, 303, 860, 863, 1125, 1127–1128
Naples: 18, 950–1006; arrival in, 954–956; eating, 997–1003; helpful hints, 956–957, 960; history of, 952–953; information, 954; maps, 958–959, 962, 1000–1001; planning tips, 951–952; sights, 964–996; sleeping, 996–997; tours, 960–961, 963–964; transportation, 954–956, 960–963, 1003–1006; walking tours, 972–980
Naples Archaeological Museum: 964–972; eating near, 1002; map, 966
Naples Civic Museum: 986
Naples Duomo: 983
Naples International Airport: 956, 1053–1054
National Archaeological Museum of Orvieto: 779
National Museum of Rome: 822, 895–897
Naval Museum (Naples): 995–996
Naviglio Grande (Milan): 281, 314–315, 317; eating, 326
Necropoli Etrusca di Crocifisso del Tufo (Orvieto): 781
New Bolzano: 199–200
Nightlife: See Opera; and specific destinations
North Rome: 804, 890–895; map, 891; nightlife, 903
Nuova Bolzano: 199–200
Oberbozen: 198–199
Obstplatz (Bolzano): 193, 196, 203
Olive oil: 337, 402, 532, 708, 756, 783, 785–786
Oltrarno (Florence): 462, 512–515; eating, 544–549; map, 528–529; shopping, 516; sleeping, 526–528
Olympic Theater (Vicenza): 162
Opera: Lucca, 588; Milan, 280, 299–301; Naples, 986; Rome, 902; Venice, 90; Vernazza, 384–385; Verona, 166
Oratory of St. George (Padua): 155
Oratory of Santa Caterina (Corniglia): 396–397
Oratory of Sant’Erasmo (Santa Margherita): 440
Oratory of the Dead (Monterosso): 361–362
Orcagna, Andrea: 502
Orsanmichele Church (Florence): 480–481, 499, 502
Orta, Lake: 270–271
Orta San Giulio: 270–271
Orto Botanico (Padua): 155
Orvieto: 17, 602, 760–790; eating, 787–790; helpful hints, 765–766; information, 762–764; maps, 762–763, 768–769, 791; nightlife, 766; sights/activities, 771–783; sleeping, 783–787; transportation, 764–765, 790; walking tour, 766–771
Orvieto City Hall: 767–768
Orvieto Classico: 760, 782–783
Orvieto Duomo: 766–767, 771–778; map, 772; Museum, 778–779
Orvieto National Archaeological Museum: 779
Orvieto Umbria Jazz: 765
Ospedale degli Innocenti (Florence): 496
Osteria dell’Aquacheta (Montepulciano): 693–694
Oswald-von-Wolkenstein Riding Tournament (Castelrotto): 207
Ötzi the Iceman: 196–198
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1213
Padua: 131–160; eating, 157–160; helpful hints, 133; information, 132–133; map, 134; sights, 135–155; sleeping, 156–157; transportation, 133, 135, 160
Padua Botanic Garden: 155
Padua Civic Museums: 148–149
Padua University: 131, 139–142
Paestum: 18, 1101–1113; eating, 1104; map, 1105; maps, 1078–1079; self-guided tour, 1106–1112; sleeping, 1112–1113; transportation, 1102–1103, 1113
Paestum Archaeological Museum: 1109–1112
Paestum Archaeological Site: 1106–1109
Palace of Tiberius (Rome): 851
Palatine Hill (Rome): 822, 856
Palazzi Papali (Orvieto): 778–779
Palazzo Balbi (Venice): 58
Palazzo Bò (Padua): 139–140
Palazzo Chigi-Saracini (Siena): 612
Palazzo Comunale (Montepulciano): 688–689
Palazzo Correale (Sorrento): 1039
Palazzo Davanzati (Florence): 503
Palazzo dei Conservatori (Rome): 859
Palazzo dei Priori (Volterra): 648
Palazzo del Comune (Assisi): 734
Palazzo della Ragione (Padua): 136, 137
Palazzo della Ragione (Verona): 173–174
Palazzo del Popolo (Orvieto): 768
Palazzo di Propaganda Fide (Rome): 838
Palazzo Ducale (Venice): 48, 71–73; map, 72
Palazzo Filippeschi (Orvieto): 770–771
Palazzo Forti (Verona): 177
Palazzo Grassi (Venice): 58–59, 79
Palazzo Grimani (Venice): 58
Palazzo Leoni Montanari Galleries (Vicenza): 162–163
Palazzo Madama (Rome): 834
Palazzo Massimo (Rome): 822, 895–897
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Florence): 471, 499
Palazzo Nuovo (Rome): 859
Palazzo Papadopoli (Venice): 58
Palazzo Piccolomini (Pienza): 700
Palazzo Pitti (Florence): 471, 512–513
Palazzo Reale (Milan): 292–294, 296
Palazzo Reale (Naples): 984–985
Palazzo Valentini (Rome): 823, 864–865
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence): 470, 482, 508
Palazzo Viti (Volterra): 650–651
Palazzo Zuckermann (Padua): 149
Palio di Siena: 614–615, 628, 1203
Palladio, Andrea: 65, 77, 130, 160, 161–163
Panorama dal Facciatone (Siena): 625
Pantheon (Rome): 822, 835, 866–868; eating near, 932–934; map, 867; sleeping near, 916–917
Pantheon neighborhood (Rome): 804, 828–839, 866–869, 914; eating, 925, 930–935; maps, 830–831, 867, 915, 928–929; sleeping, 914–917
Papal audiences: 880–881
Paper Museum (Amalfi): 1095
Parco Archeologico (Volterra): 658
Parco di Portofino: 449
Parco di Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita): 440
Parco Sempione (Milan): 313–314
Parliament building (Rome): 836
Parmigianino: 990
Pasquino (Rome): 833
Passeggiata: 176–177, 901, 993–994, 1043
Passo di Sella: 228–229
Pasta: overview, 1164–1165
Pazzi Chapel (Florence): 470, 510–511
Pecorino cheese: 532, 696–697, 698, 1166
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice): 48, 59, 79
Pellegrinaio Hall (Siena): 626–627
Peretola Airport (Florence): 466–467
Perugia/Assisi Airport: 759
Pflegerhof Herb Farm (Seis): 214
Phone numbers, useful: 1201
Phones: 1173–1178
Piano, Renzo: 901–902
Piazza Aldo Moro (Sestri Levante): 431
Piazza Antelminelli (Lucca): 579, 590
Piazza Bellini (Naples): 974
Piazza Brà (Verona): 164, 165, 167–169; eating, 182–184; sleeping, 180, 182
Piazza Cadorna (Stresa): 266
Piazza Capellini (Manarola): 402
Piazza Capranica (Rome): 835–836
Piazza Caprera (Santa Margherita): 436
Piazza Carità (Naples): 976–977
Piazza Citadella (Lucca): 587
Piazza Colonna (Rome): 836
Piazza Dante (Naples): 974–975
Piazza Dante (Pisa): 575
Piazza degli Affari (Milan): 303
Piazza dei Cavalieri (Pisa): 561
Piazza dei Mercanti (Milan): 280, 296, 298–299
Piazza dei Mulini (Positano): 1083
Piazza dei Priori (Volterra): 645, 648
Piazza dei Signori (Padua): 136–137, 158
Piazza dei Signori (Verona): 173–174
Piazza dei Signori (Vicenza): 163
Piazza del Campidoglio (Rome): 823, 857
Piazza del Carmine (Florence): 545–546
Piazza del Duomo (Milan): 280, 295–296
Piazza del Duomo (Orvieto): 766–767
Piazza del Duomo (San Gimignano): 668–669
Piazza del Duomo (Siena): 613
Piazza del Giglio (Lucca): 588
Piazza del Grano (Bolzano): 195
Piazza della Chiesa (Bellagio): 251, 253
Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano): 667
Piazza della Frutta (Padua): 136, 158
Piazza della Madonna dei Monti (Rome): 903–904, 937, 938
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (Lucca): 583
Piazza della Repubblica (Florence): 480, 502–503
Piazza della Repubblica (Orvieto): 769–770
Piazza della Scala (Milan): 299
Piazza della Signoria (Florence): 462, 482; eating, 535–539
Piazza delle Coppelle (Rome): 900
Piazza delle Erbe (Padua): 136, 137
Piazza delle Sorgenti (Bagno Vignoni): 717
Piazza delle Vettovaglie (Pisa): 557, 560
Piazza del Plebiscito (Naples): 976, 984
Piazza del Popolo (Levanto): 425, 426
Piazza del Popolo (Montalcino): 704–705
Piazza del Popolo (Orvieto): 765
Piazza del Popolo (Rome): 826, 828
Piazza di Montecitorio (Rome): 836
Piazza di Pietra (Rome): 835
Piazza di Santo Spirito (Florence): 462, 544–545
Piazza di Spagna (Rome): 838, 899
Piazza Duomo (Ravello): 1098
Piazza Erbe (Bolzano): 193, 196, 203
Piazza Erbe (Verona): 164, 171–172; eating, 186, 187; sleeping, 179–180
Piazza Farnese (Rome): 832–833
Piazza Flavio Gioia (Positano): 1084
Piazza Garibaldi (Monterosso): 360
Piazza Garibaldi (Pisa): 559–560
Piazza Gesù Nuovo (Naples): 977
Piazza Grande (Montepulciano): 688–689
Piazza Indipendenza (Siena): 616
Piazza Kraus (Castelrotto): 209
Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence): 462, 471, 514–515
Piazza Marconi (Vernazza): 378–379
Piazza Matteotti (Sestri Levante): 432
Piazza Mazzini (Santa Margherita): 438
Piazza Napoleone (Lucca): 588
Piazza Navona (Rome): 834; eating near, 930–931
Piazza Pio II (Pienza): 699
Piazza Risorgimento (Rome): 944
Piazza Salimbeni (Siena): 616–617
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (Naples): 977–978
Piazza San Giorgio (Varenna): 242–243
Piazza San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Square
Piazza San Michele (Lucca): 586–587
Piazza Sette Settembre (Naples): 975
Piazza S.S. Annunziata (Florence): 471, 496, 539
Piazza Tasso (Sorrento): 1032, 1037–1039
Piazza Tolomei (Siena): 616
Piazza Umberto (Capri): 1063–1064
Piazza Venezia (Rome): 859–860; map, 858
Piazza Vittoria (Capri): 1065, 1067
Piazza Vittoria (Naples): 993–994
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Pisa): 558
Piazza Walther (Bolzano): 193–194
Piccolomini Altar (Siena): 621–622
Piccolomini Library (Siena): 623
Piccolomini Palace (Pienza): 700
Picnics (picnicking): 1161–1162. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Pienza: 602, 679, 695–702, 714; eating, 701; information, 697; map, 696–697; sights, 698–701; sleeping, 678–681; transportation, 697–698, 702
Pienza City Hall: 699
Pienza Duomo: 699–700
Piero della Francesca: 310, 506
Pietà Rondanini (Michelangelo): 312
Pieve di Corsignano: 701
Pinacoteca: Assisi, 750; Padua, 148–149; Rome, 894; San Gimignano, 670–671; Siena, 608, 619–620; Volterra, 651
Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 280, 302–303
Pinacoteca di Brera (Milan): 280, 309–310
Pio Monte della Misericordia Church (Naples): 979, 983–984
Pisa: 17, 553–577; eating, 574–576; helpful hints, 557–558; information, 554; maps, 553, 556–557, 563; planning tips, 553–554; sights, 561–573; sleeping, 573–574; transportation, 555, 557, 576–577; walking tour, 558–561
Pisa Duomo: 567–569; Museum, 572–573
Pisa Leaning Tower: 564–567
Pisano family: 148, 559, 565–571, 573, 613, 622
Pitti Palace (Florence): 471, 512–513
Pius II, Pope: 695, 699–700, 701
Pizza (pizzerias): 1159, 1163–1164; Naples, 980, 997–999; Roman, 927. See also specific destinations
Poldi Pezzoli Museum (Milan): 281, 310
Pompeii: 18, 1007–1023; backgorund, 1012; eating, 1011–1012; information, 1009; maps, 1008, 1010–1011, 1014; self-guided tour, 1012–1023; tours, 960–961, 1009–1011; transportation, 1008–1009
Ponte dei Greci (Venice), eating: 122–123
Ponte di Mezzo (Pisa): 559
Ponte Pietra (Verona): 175
Ponte Scaligero (Verona): 178
Ponte Vecchio (Florence): 471, 484, 509
Pontone: 1096
Population of Italy: 1116
Porcelain Museum (Florence): 513
Pordoi Pass: 228
Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 645–646
Porta al Prato (Montepulciano): 682, 686
Porta Borsari (Verona): 170–171
Porta Garibaldi (Milan): 276, 327
Port’Alba (Naples): 974
Porta Marina (Pompei): 1012–1013
Porta Nolana Open-Air Fish Market (Naples): 993
Porta Perlici (Assisi): 726
Porta Portese (Rome): 900
Porta San Giovanni (San Gimignano): 665, 667
Porta San Paolo (Rome): 945
Porta Santa Maria (Civita): 794
Portofino: 421, 441, 445–451; maps, 446, 448
Porto Venere: 421, 451–453; hiking, 345, 351, 453; map, 452
Porziuncola Chapel (Assisi): 748–749
Porziuncola Museum (Assisi): 749
Positano: 1076–1077, 1080–1090; eating, 1089–1090; information, 1082; map, 1084–1085; nightlife, 1088; shopping, 1087–1088; sights/activities, 1087–1088; sleeping, 1088–1089; transportation, 1082–1083; walking tour, 1083–1087
Post offices: 1178; Vatican City, 880, 884. See also specific destinations
Pozzo della Cava (Orvieto): 770, 781
Pozzo di San Patrizio (Orvieto): 780
Praiano: 1077
Prato della Valle (Padua): 155
Priscilla, Catacombs of (Rome): 823, 894–895
Puccini, Giacomo: 300, 579, 587; House (Lucca), 591–592
Punta Bonfiglio (Manarola): 404–405
Punta del Capo: 1045
Punta della Dogana (Venice): 49, 79–80
Punta di Montenero: 414
Punta Mesco: 345, 350, 360, 426
Punta Spartivento: 241, 253, 256, 258
Quadrilateral (Milan): 316
Quattro Cantoni (Siena): 612
Quercia, Jacopo della: See Della Quercia, Jacopo
Rail travel: See Train travel; and specific destinations
Ramaio Cesare (Montepulciano): 691
Raphael: 302–303, 310, 508, 513, 828, 868, 877, 989–990; Rooms (Vatican), 885
Rauchhütte: 224
Ravello Duomo: 1098–1099
Ravello Festival: 1099
Red House (Capri): 1066
Reggio: events, 337; hiking, 363, 377, 383
Reifenstein Castle: 229–230
Reliquary Chapel (Assisi): 741–742
Renaissance: overview, 476, 1123; walking tour, in Florence, 475–484. See also specific artists
Rental properties: 1148–1151
Resources from Rick Steves: 1198–1200
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rialto Bridge (Venice): 48, 56–57, 80; eating near, 108–109, 112–113, 122; map, 98–99; sleeping near, 97–100
Rialto market (Venice): 56, 80, 124; eating, 112–115, 122
Rifugio Belvedere: 229
Rifugio Bolzano: 227
Rifugio Viel del Pan: 229
Rinascente: See La Rinascente
Riomaggiore: 333, 409–419; beaches, 415; eating, 417–419; events, 337; experiences, 414–415; helpful hints, 410–411; hiking, 344, 345–348, 414; information, 409; map, 410–411; nightlife, 415–416; sleeping, 416–417; transportation, 335, 409–410; walking tour, 411–414
Riomaggiore Church: 412
Riomaggiore Marina: 413–414; eating, 417
Risorgimento: 1125–1127
Risorgimento Museums: Milan, 281, 310; Padua, 139
Ritschhütte: 224
Ritten, the: 198–199
Riva de Biasio (Venice): 54
Riviera: 17, 420–457; at a glance, 421; home base, 420–421; map, 422. See also Cinque Terre
Rocca (San Gimignano): 669–670
Rocca di Tentennano: 718
Rocca Maggiore (Assisi): 720, 727, 750
Rocca Minore (Assisi): 727, 751
“Rodeo Drive” (Capri): 1064
Roman amphitheaters: See Amphitheaters
Roman forums: See Foro Romano
Roman Holiday (movie): 828, 1209
Roman House at Palazzo Valentini (Rome): 823, 864–865
Roman numerals: 1210–1211
Roman theaters: See Teatro Romano
Roma Pass: 26, 807, 810, 814–815
Rome: 14, 802–949; at a glance, 822–823; arrival in, 805–807; eating, 922–945; festivals, 1203; helpful hints, 807, 810–812; information, 805; layout of, 803–805; vs. Milan, 276–277; nightlife, 901–904; planning tips, 803; reservations, 25–26, 814–815; shopping, 899–900; sights, 839–898; sightseeing tips, 807, 810, 814–815; sleeping, 904–922; tours, 821, 824–826, 933; transportation, 805–807, 812–813, 816–821, 945–949; walking tours, 826–839. See also specific neighborhoods
Rome, ancient: See Ancient Rome
Rome Auditorium: 901–902
Rome from the Sky elevator: 823, 861
Romeo and Juliet, in Verona: 164, 172–173
Rome Termini Station: See Termini Station
Romulus: 297, 851, 856, 859, 1114, 1124
Rossellino, Bernardo: 695, 698, 699
Rosso di Montalcino: 533, 707, 1170
Rostrum (Rome): 853–854
Royal Palace (Naples): 984–985
Runkelstein Castle (Bolzano): 200
Running Park Seiser Alm: 227–228
Rupe (Orvieto): 781–782
Safety: See Theft alerts
St. Anthony Basilica (Padua): 149–155; map, 151
St. Anthony Basilica (Sorrento): 1040–1041
St. Catherine Sanctuary (Siena): 608, 628
St. Clare Basilica (Assisi): 731
St. Cristina: 229
St. Francis Basilica (Assisi): 735–748; maps, 738, 744; self-guided tour, 737–748
St. George’s Anglican Church (Venice): 39
St. John the Baptist Church (Monterosso): 360–361
St. Lawrence Church (Manarola): 403
St. Mark’s Basilica (Venice): 36, 48, 60, 62–63, 65–71; map, 66; self-guided tour, 67–71
St. Mark’s Campanile (Venice): 36, 48, 64, 75–76
St. Mark’s Square (Venice): 36, 48, 60, 62–65; cafés, 74–75, 91, 123–124; eating near, 115–118; gelato, 125; maps, 63, 94–95; nightlife, 91; pigeon poop, 37; sleeping near, 92–97
St. Mary of the Angels Basilica (Assisi): 748–749
St. Michael Church (Volterra): 650
St. Moritz: transportation, 250, 262
St. Patrick’s Well (Orvieto): 780
St. Paul’s Within the Walls Church (Rome): 902
St. Peter-in-Chains Church (Rome): 823, 864–865
St. Peter’s Basilica (Rome): 822, 871–879; map, 872
St. Peter’s Square (Rome): 869–871
St. Teresa in Ecstasy (Bernini): 898
Sala De Marchi (Varenna): 244
Sale Moscati (Naples): 981
Salerno: 1080; map, 1102; transportation, 1102–1103
Salumi: 1165–1166
Salute Church (Venice): 49, 59, 60, 79
Salviati Building (Venice): 59
San Bartolo Church (San Gimignano): 670
San Biagio Church (Montepulciano): 692, 712
San Brizio Chapel (Orvieto): 775–776
Sanctuary of Montenero: 414
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Soviore (Monterosso): 363
Sanctuary of St. Catherine (Siena): 608, 628
San Damiano Church (Assisi): 750–751
San Domenico Church (Siena): 627
San Francesco Basilica (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco
San Francesco Church (Montepulciano): 690
San Francesco Church (Pienza): 698
San Francesco di Paola Church (Naples): 984
San Francesco Woods (Assisi): 751
San Frediano Church (Lucca): 583–584
San Fruttuoso Abbey: 449–450
San Gennaro, Catacombs of (Naples): 992
San Giacomo Church (Santa Margherita): 440
San Giacomo Monastery (Capri): 1064
San Gimignano: 17, 602, 663–675; eating, 673–674; helpful hints, 665; information, 664; maps, 642, 666; planning tips, 642; sights, 670–671; sleeping, 671–673; transportation, 641–642, 664–665, 674–675; walking tour, 665–670
San Gimignano City Hall: 668–669
San Gimignano Civic Museum: 670–671
San Gimignano Duomo: 669
San Gimignano Towers: 667–668, 670–671
San Gimignano 1300: 671
San Giorgio Church (Portofino): 448–449
San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice): 49, 65, 77
San Giovanni (Lake Como town): 258
San Giovanni Battista (Monterosso): 361–362
San Giovanni Church (Lucca): 588
Sanità (Naples): 988–989
San Lorenzo Basilica (Florence): 497–498
San Lorenzo Church (Porto Venere): 453
San Lorenzo Market (Florence): 498
San Luigi dei Francesi Church (Rome): 834, 868
San Marco (Venice): 30, 60, 62–76; eating, 115–118; maps, 63, 94–95; sleeping, 92–97
San Marco Basilica (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica
San Marco Campanile (Venice): 36, 48, 64, 75–76
San Marco Clock Tower (Venice): 60, 64
San Marco Museum (Florence): 470, 497
San Marco Museum (Venice): 65, 71
San Marcuola (Venice): 54–55
San Martino (Naples): 963, 985, 994–995, 994–996
San Martino Carthusian Monastery and Museum (Naples): 995–996
San Martino Cathedral (Lucca): 588–589
San Maurizio Church (Milan): 281, 304
San Michele Cemetery (Venice): 49, 83
San Michele Church (Capri): 1066
San Michele Church (Lucca): 586–587
San Miniato Church (Florence): 471, 515
San Pietro Church (Porto Venere): 453
San Pietro in Vincoli (Rome): 823, 864–865
San Polo Church (Venice): 49, 82
San Rocco School (Venice): 48, 82
San Rufino Cathedral (Assisi): 728, 730
San Silvestro (Venice): 57
San Stae Church (Venice): 55
Santa Chiara Church (Naples): 981
Santa Corona Church (Vicenza): 162
Santa Croce Church (Florence): 470, 510–511
Santa Giulia (near Montalcino): 708
Sant’Agostino Church (Montepulciano): 687
Sant’Agostino Church (San Gimignano): 670
Santa Lucia (Naples): 993
Santa Lucia Station (Venice): 33–34, 54, 125; map, 106–107; sleeping, 104–108
Santa Margherita Basilica: 438–439
Santa Margherita Ligure: 421, 435–445; eating, 443–444; helpful hints, 436; history of, 441; information, 436; map, 437; sights/activities, 440–441; sleeping, 442–443; transportation, 435–436, 444–445; walking tour, 436–440
Santa Maria Assunta Church (Positano): 1084–1086
Santa Maria Belvedere (Corniglia): 397
Santa Maria degli Angeli Church (Rome): 823, 897–898
Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo
Santa Maria del Giglio (Venice): 59
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice): 49, 59, 60, 79
Santa Maria della Scala (Siena): 608, 626–627
Santa Maria della Vittoria Church (Rome): 898
Santa Maria delle Grazie (Milan): 280, 306–309
Santa Maria delle Grazie (Sorrento): 1034–1035
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome): 828
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Venice): 48, 80–82
Santa Maria in Aracoeli Church (Rome): 860
Santa Maria Novella Church (Florence): 470–471, 511–512; eating near, 543
Santa Maria Novella train station (Florence): 462, 463–464, 549
Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church (Assisi): 734
Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church (Rome): 868
Sant’Ambrogio Basilica (Milan): 280, 305–306
Sant’Anastasia Church (Verona): 174–175
Sant’Andrea Church (Levanto): 426
Sant’Andrea Church (Orvieto): 769–770
Sant’Angelo (Venice): 58
Santa Susanna Church (Rome): 881, 905
Sant’Ignazio Church (Rome): 868
Santissima Annunziata Church (Florence): 496
San Tomà (Venice): 58
Santo Stefano Church (Assisi): 734–735
Santuario di Nostra Signora di Reggio: 363, 377, 383
Santuario di Nostra Signora di Reggio (Vernazza): 363, 377, 383
San Zaccaria (Venice): 49, 60–61, 61, 76
San Zeno Maggiore Basilica (Verona): 178
San Zulian Church (Venice): 38–39
Sasso Lungo Mountains: 219
Save Vernazza: 384
Savonarola, Girolamo: 483, 497, 507, 776
Scaligeri Family tombs (Verona): 174
Scams: 1132–1133. See also Theft alerts
Schlernhaus: 227
Schloss Runkelstein (Bolzano): 200
Scrovegni Chapel (Padua): 142–148; map, 144
Scuola del Santo (Padua): 155
Scuola San Rocco (Venice): 48, 82
Seasons: 19–20
Secret Room (Naples): 969–970
Seis (Siusi): 208, 214, 218, 219, 222; nightlife, 214; sleeping, 216–217
Seiser Alm: See Alpe di Siusi
Seiser Alm Bahn Cable Car: 219, 222
Sella Pass: 228–229
Senate House (Rome): 853
Sestri Levante: 421, 431–435; map, 433
Settimana Francescana (Assisi): 724
Sforza Castle (Milan): 280, 311–313
Shopping: clothing sizes, 1211; hours, 1133; VAT refunds, 1139. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Siena: 14, 598–640; at a glance, 608; arrival in, 599–601, 604; eating, 634–639; festivals, 614–615, 1203; helpful hints, 604–605; information, 599; maps, 600, 606–607, 611, 632–633; planning tips, 598; sights, 617–628; sleeping, 628–634; tours, 605, 608–609; transportation, 599–601, 604, 639–640; walking tour, 609–617
Siena Archaeological Museum: 627
Siena City Tower: 609–610, 618–619
Siena Civic Museum: 608, 617–618
Siena Crypt: 626
Siena Duomo: 608, 613–615, 620–624; Museum, 608, 624–625
Siena Palio: 614–615, 628, 1203
Siena Pinacoteca: 608, 619–620
Sightseeing: apps and maps, 32, 1140; best three-week trip, 20–21; general tips, 1140–1143; itineraries, 19–22; money-saving tips, 23–24; must-see destinations, 12–14; reservations, 25–26; worth-it destinations, 15–18. See also specific sights and destinations
Signorelli, Luca: 651, 771, 775–778, 779
SIM cards: 1176–1177
Sinking Boat Fountain (Rome): 838–839
Sistine Chapel (Rome): 822, 885–889
Siusi: See Seis
Skiing: 208
Sleep code: 1144
Sleeping: 1143–1152; money-saving tips, 1143–1145; online reviews, 1153; reservations, 24, 25, 1148–1149; types of accommodations, 1145–1152. See also specific destinations
Sorrento: 18, 1031–1055, 1076; eating, 1050–1053; helpful hints, 1034–1036; information, 1033; maps, 1032, 1034–1035, 1038; nightlife, 1046–1047; sights/activities, 1043–1046; sleeping, 1047–1050; tours, 1036; transportation, 1033–1034, 1036–1037, 1053–1055; walking tour, 1037–1042
Sorrento Cathedral: 1039–1040
Sorrento Men’s Club: 1040
Sorrento Musical: 1046–1047
South Rome: See Trastevere
South Tirol Museum of Archaeology (Bolzano): 196–198
Spaccanapoli (Naples): 975–976, 979; eating, 999, 1002
Spanish Quarter (Naples): 976
Spanish Steps (Rome): 828, 838–839, 899, 903; eating near, 935–936; sleeping near, 917
Special events: 1202–1203. See also specific destinations
Speck Fest (Bolzano): 194
Spedaletto Castle: 713
Spiaggia Grande (Positano): 1086, 1087
Spritz: 138
Straw Market (Florence): 502, 516
Stresa Town: 264–266; map, 265
Student tour packages: 50, 475, 826
Subway: See Metro
Südtiroler Archäologiemuseum (Bolzano): 196–198
Swimming: See Beaches
Switchbacks of the Friars (Monterosso): 362
Tabularium (Rome): 859
Taddeo di Bartolo: 651, 670, 691
Tavola caldas: overview, 1160–1161. See also specific destinations
Taxes: VAT refunds, 1139
Taxis: 1190; tipping, 1138. See also specific destinations
Teatro alla Fenice (Venice): 90
Teatro alla Scala (Milan): 280, 299–301
Teatro dell’Opera (Rome): 902
Teatro di San Carlo (Naples): 986
Teatro Goldoni (Venice): 90
Teatro Mancinelli (Orvieto): 780
Teatro Olimpico (Vicenza): 162
Teatro Romano (Roman theater): Padua, 155; Pompeii, 1022–1023; Verona, 178–179; Volterra, 652
Teatro Tasso (Sorrento): 1046–1047
Tea with Mussolini (movie): 672, 1209
Telephone numbers, useful: 1201
Telephones: 1173–1178
Telfen: 208
Temperatures, average monthly: 1211–1212
Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina (Rome): 849–850
Temple of Castor and Pollux (Rome): 851
Temple of Ceres (Paestum): 1106–1107
Temple of Hera (Paestum): 1108–1109
Temple of Isis (Pompeii): 1022
Temple of Julius Caesar (Rome): 852
Temple of Jupiter (Pompei): 1013, 1015
Temple of Minerva (Assisi): 734
Temple of Neptune (Paestum): 1108
Temple of Saturn (Rome): 855
Temple of Vesta (Rome): 850
Tennis, in Sorrento: 1045
Tentennano Castle: 718
Terme del Foro (Pompeii): 1017–1018
Termini Station (Rome): 805–806, 895, 945–946; eating, 940–941; maps, 896–897, 906–907, 942–943; sleeping, 905–911
Theft alerts: 27, 1132–1133, 1137–1138; Cinque Terre, 336; Florence, 467; Milan, 277; Naples, 956–957; Rome, 810–811; on trains, 1188; Venice, 36
Tiburtina Station (Rome): 806–807, 945, 946
Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista: 77, 80, 90, 148
Time zones: 1133
Tintoretto: 73, 76, 77, 82, 148, 309, 455, 589
Tirol: See Dolomites
Titian: 78, 82, 148, 155, 176, 302, 455, 508, 513, 894, 989, 990
Tobacco shops: 1134
Todi: sleeping, 786–787
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Rome): 860
Torcello: 49, 84–85; map, 84–85
Toro Farnese: 967–968
Torre Branca (Milan): 313
Torre dei Lamberti (Verona): 173–174
Torre del Mangia (Siena): 609–610, 618–619
Torre del Moro (Orvieto): 767
Torre Grossa (San Gimignano): 667–668, 670–671
Torre Guinigi (Lucca): 591
Torrenieri: 708
Toscanini, Arturo: 296, 299, 300
Tour guides: tipping, 1138. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 1131–1132. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 1198–1199. See also specific destinations
“Trail of the Witches”: 225
Train travel: 1180–1189; best three-week trip, 20–21; general tips, 1188–1189; map, 1179; schedules, 1180–1181, 1184; strikes, 1188–1189; tickets, 1182–1183, 1184–1186. See also Circumvesuviana Train; and specific destinations
Trajan’s Column (Rome): 822, 862
Trajan’s Forum (Rome): 822, 862–863
Trajan’s Market (Rome): 822, 863
Transportation: 1178–1198; budgeting, 23; map, 1179. See also specific destinations
Trastevere (Rome): 805, 917, 924; bookstores, 810; eating, 924–925; map, 918–919; sleeping, 917–918
Travel insurance: 26
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 1132–1134
Treasury Museum (Rome): 878–879
Tremezzo: 258–259
Tre Scalini (Rome): 834
Trevi Fountain (Rome): 823, 837–838, 869, 903; eating near, 931–932
Treviso Airport (Venice): 128–129
Triennale di Milano: 313
Trionfale market (Rome): 900, 944
Trip costs: 23
Tuff (tufo): 775
Turkish “Fondaco” Exchange (Venice): 54–55
Tuscan Wine School (Siena): 605
Tuscany: agriturismo, 603, 631, 634, 660, 673, 678–682; cuisine, 532–533; driving distances and time, 1197; geology, 716–717; guided tours, 473, 474, 605, 608, 645, 678; heart of, 17, 676–718; “heart of Tuscany” driving tour, 711–718; maps, 680–681, 712. See also Florence; Lucca; Pisa; Siena
Uffizi Gallery (Florence): 470, 503–508; courtyard, 483–484, 508; map, 504; reservations, 25, 487–488, 504–505
Umbria: 719–801; agriturismo, 755–756, 786–787; views of, from Assisi, 726–727, 731–732. See also Assisi; Civita di Bagnoregio; Orvieto
Umbria Jazz (Orvieto): 765
Underground Orvieto: 780–781
University of Padua: 131, 139–142
UPIM (Rome): 899