Grilled Catfish with Barely Cooked Tomatoes
Grilled Catfish with Hoppin’ John
Grilled Swordfish with Green Gumbo
Grilled Trout with Cornbread Puree
Cornmeal-Dusted Grouper with Herb Puree
Fried Catfish with Green Tomato Tartar Sauce
Beeliner Snapper with Fried Peppers
Sheepshead “on the Half Shell” with Tomato Gravy
Potlikker-Steamed Sea Bass with Corn Dodgers
Grilled Catfish with Barely Cooked Tomatoes
Serves 4
Barely Cooked Tomatoes
3 pounds heirloom tomatoes
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon Lindera Farms Turmeric Vinegar (see Resources)
Catfish
Four 5- to 7-ounce skinless farm-raised catfish fillets (such as Carolina Classics; see Resources), about ½ inch thick
1 tablespoon canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon benne oil (see Resources)
2 teaspoons Anson Mills Antebellum Benne Seeds (see Resources)
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
goes well with:
This dish captures the essence of picking a ripe tomato off the plant and eating it under the blazing-hot sun of the South. That tomato is probably pushing 100°F during the hottest part of the day—almost starting to cook. To translate the experience to the plate, I peel the tomatoes, dice them, and marinate them in a little bit of fish sauce for a couple of hours before warming them in a pan until they hit that internal temperature of 100°F. The result is a tomato that is at the intersection of raw and cooked.
Adding benne seeds to the plate brings it into the fold of classic Gullah Geechee food traditions. You could swap the catfish for some steamed Carolina Gold rice for an incredible vegetarian dinner.
For the tomatoes: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Working in batches, lightly score the skin on the bottom of each tomato with an X and submerge the tomatoes in the boiling water for 10 seconds. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool; do not leave them in there for longer than 5 minutes. Drain, then peel, halve, and seed the tomatoes and cut them into medium dice.
Combine the diced tomatoes, fish sauce, and vinegar in a medium nonreactive saucepan, cover, and set aside at room temperature for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.
For the catfish: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals in an even layer in the bottom of the grill. Place the grill rack as close to the coals as possible.
Meanwhile, reheat the tomatoes over low heat until they are just warmed through, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the catfish fillets with canola oil on both sides and season liberally with salt and white pepper. Grill the fillets skinned side up until lightly charred and opaque, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillets over and grill them for 2 minutes more.
To serve: Arrange the catfish fillets on four warm plates. Spoon the tomatoes over the fillets, drizzle with the benne oil, and sprinkle with the benne seeds and chopped parsley.
I know the average home grill setup is far simpler than what I’m used to in a professional kitchen, and I developed and tested the recipes in this book keeping that in mind. To that end, all the recipes can be made with a standard Weber-style kettle grill, good-quality hardwood lump charcoal, and a few other essential tools. Once you’re comfortable starting and maintaining a charcoal grill, everything that follows is just a variation on a theme. (For a look at how I cook over a hearth, see Fireplace Cookery.)
Lighting the Grill
Grilling starts with lighting your charcoal, and the best way to do this is by using a chimney starter. Essentially a perforated metal tube with a handle on the side and a grate at one end, it uses the airflow principle of drafting to draw oxygen over the coals, allowing them to light and burn quickly in an easily handled container.
Crumple a few sheets of newspaper and put them in the bottom of your kettle grill. Set the chimney starter over the paper with the grate end down. Fill the chimney with charcoal (it usually takes 3 to 4 pounds of charcoal). Light the newspaper using a match or lighter and let the chimney do the rest of the work. Generally speaking, it will take 20 to 25 minutes for the coals to light completely and be ready. They should be evenly lit and glowing, without any large flames coming out of the top of the starter.
Carefully pour the glowing-hot coals into the bottom of the grill. The handle on the side of the chimney will be hot, so don’t grab it without using a thick kitchen towel or oven mitt. Set the hot chimney out of the way where it won’t set anything on fire or burn anyone.
From here, each recipe will differ a little bit. Where (or if) you position the grill rack, and whether you spread the coals evenly or off to one side, depends on what you’re cooking.
Essential Tools
Having these tools on hand will make your grilling life much easier.
•Metal Tongs. A pair of sturdy long-handled tongs and another smaller pair are crucial for moving food around on the grill surface, whether on the rack or in a basket. The long-handled version is also a great tool for moving hot coals around in the bottom of your grill.
•Grill Baskets. There are tons of different types of grilling baskets available. For me, the most versatile one is a round open-top fine-mesh wire basket. A good grill basket will let you cook things over the coals you otherwise couldn’t, from delicious English peas to squid or even peanuts. It also lets you get more conventional grilling ingredients far closer to the coals than you can using the grill rack.
•Kitchen Towels. A stash of dry, heavy-duty kitchen towels is a must when you’re grilling.
•Grill Brush. Cleaning the grill rack before and after grilling is crucial to ensuring that the food you cook doesn’t stick to the grate or pick up any unwanted flavors. Select a good brush with stiff metal bristles and a sturdy handle.
Grilled Catfish with Hoppin’ John
Serves 4
Red Peas
2 cups Vegetable Stock
½ cup Anson Mills Sea Island Red Peas (see Resources), soaked in water to cover in the refrigerator overnight
¼ cup roughly chopped drained Preserved Tomatoes or canned whole tomatoes
1 ounce bacon, preferably Benton’s (seeResources), cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 small garlic clove, peeled
1 fresh bay leaf
5 thyme sprigs
Kosher salt
Rice
2 cups water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice (see Resources)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
Catfish
Four 5- to 7-ounce skinless farm-raised catfish fillets (such as Carolina Classics; see Resources), about ½ inch thick
1 tablespoon canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon Espelette pepper
1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion greens
32 pea or bean flowers (optional)
Equipment
Electric pressure cooker (see Note)
Goes Well With:
Rice-and-Shrimp Croquettes with Tomato Chili Sauce
Hoppin’ John made with red peas and rice is certainly a meal in itself. But it can share the plate with simply grilled catfish or even shrimp. Here the flavor of the catfish complements the Hoppin’ John without overwhelming it.
Note: You’ll need to start this recipe a day ahead of time to soak the red peas.
For the red peas: Combine the vegetable stock, drained peas, tomatoes, bacon, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme in the pressure cooker, lock on the lid, bring the cooker up to high pressure, and cook for 15 minutes. Carefully release the steam from the pressure cooker. Drain the peas, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. Remove and discard the garlic, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs.
Transfer the peas to a small saucepan and season lightly with salt. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (Tightly covered, the peas will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.)
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals in an even layer in the bottom of the grill. Place the grill rack as close to the coals as possible.
for the rice: While the grill is heating, combine the water, salt, and cayenne in a small saucepan, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and stir to completely dissolve the salt. Reduce the heat to medium, add the rice, stir once, and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, about 10 minutes.
Drain the rice and spread it out on a rimmed baking sheet. Place the rice in the oven to dry for 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally. Scatter the butter evenly over the rice and return it to the oven for about 5 minutes, stirring it twice during that time, until the rice is dry. All the excess moisture should have evaporated and the grains should be separate.
For the catfish: While the rice is in the oven, using a pastry brush, lightly brush the catfish fillets with canola oil on both sides and season liberally with salt and white pepper. Grill the fillets skinned side up until lightly charred and opaque, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillets over and grill them for 2 minutes more. Transfer them to a platter, sprinkle with the lemon juice and Espelette pepper, and lightly cover with foil to keep warm.
Meanwhile, remove the peas from the refrigerator and warm them over low heat.
To serve: Lay a catfish fillet slightly off center on each of four warm plates. Using a slotted spoon, spoon a line of peas right next to each fillet. Spoon some of the rice, slightly overlapping the peas, in a line down each fillet. Sprinkle the sliced scallions and pea flowers, if using, over the rice.
Grilled Swordfish with Green Gumbo
Serves 6
Smoked Vegetables
1 cup small dice sweet onion
⅔ cup small dice peeled carrots
Green Gumbo
2 pounds greens (see headnote)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
4 cups Vegetable Stock
3 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably Bourbon Barrel Bluegrass Soy Sauce (see Resources)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Swordfish
Six 6-ounce skinless swordfish steaks, about 1½ inches thick
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
to complete
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion
Equipment
Smoker
Meat grinder
Goes Well With:
Green gumbo, or gumbo z’herbes, doesn’t bear much resemblance to the more well known versions you’re probably familiar with. More often than not completely meatless, green gumbo sometimes doesn’t even feature the iconic roux that defines the typical gumbos of the Gulf Coast. When there is a roux in green gumbo, it is usually far lighter than the deep-brown one found in the traditional version. This dish is especially popular in and around New Orleans during the Lenten season, when a lot of folks abstain from meat.
Green gumbo will be different each time you make it, because the idea is to use all the fresh greens you can find. So one day it might be kale, turnip greens, Swiss chard, and parsley, and the next it could be collard greens, arugula, radish tops, and sorrel. Use the widest variety of the freshest leafy greens and herbs you can get your hands on—the more, the better. Tradition has it, the more types of greens you use, the more friends you’ll make in the coming year. You also don’t have to stop at farmed produce; green gumbo is a great way to use any wild greens that you can forage.
For the vegetables: Prepare the smoker with hardwood charcoal and hickory (see Smoking); maintain the temperature at between 125°F and 150°F.
Combine the onion and carrot in a shallow baking dish that will fit in your smoker and spread them out in a thin single layer. Smoke the diced vegetables until they have developed a rich smoky flavor but still retain their fresh texture, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the smoker and set aside to cool to room temperature.
For the gumbo: Wash the greens in the sink or a large bowl of cold water, changing the water several times if they are sandy. Drain and dry.
Grind the cleaned greens through the large die of a meat grinder; set aside.
Heat the butter in a large pot over medium heat until foamy. Add the smoked onion and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 7 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour just begins to turn light brown, about 4 minutes. Gradually whisk in the vegetable stock and bring to a simmer, whisking. Add the greens, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are just tender but still vibrant in flavor, about 30 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and season with salt, if necessary, and black pepper. Remove from the stove, cover, and set aside. (The gumbo can be made ahead. Tightly covered once cooled, it will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.)
For the swordfish: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals in an even layer in the bottom of the grill. Place the grill rack as close to the coals as possible.
Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the swordfish steaks with the olive oil on both sides. Season liberally with salt and white pepper. Grill the swordfish steaks on the hottest part of the grill for about 5 minutes, without moving them. When the steaks can easily be moved without any resistance, turn them over and grill, moving the fish around the grill if necessary to avoid flare-ups, until the flesh just begins to flake when gently prodded with a fork, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with the lemon juice, and lightly cover with foil to keep warm.
To complete: Reheat the gumbo gently over medium-low heat, then stir in the fresh lemon juice. Divide the gumbo among six warm bowls, place a swordfish steak in each bowl, and sprinkle with the scallion.
Grilled Trout with Cornbread Puree
Serves 4
Cornbread Puree
¼ recipe Basic Cornbread, made a day ahead, broken into small pieces
1 cup whole milk
½ cup full-fat buttermilk (see Note)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Trout
Four 7-ounce skin-on trout fillets, about ½ inch thick
2 teaspoons canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
goes well with:
Potatoes and Ramps Cooked in Ham Fat
Grilling is the first thing that pops into my head when I think about cooking trout. I’m not even sure if there is any other way. The aroma of the trout grilling elicits so many memories of fishing and camping trips from my youth, and I love to relive those at home. Using the lid allows the grill to cook like an oven, resulting in trout with a delicate texture.
The cornbread puree is very much the result of a late-night “What if?” Sometimes those ideas don’t work out, but this one did. It’s fun to see the reaction from my dinner guests when I serve it. Try it with grilled pork too.
For the cornbread puree: Combine the cornbread, milk, and buttermilk in a medium saucepan and warm through over low heat. Transfer to a blender and blend on high until completely smooth, about 3 minutes. Blend in the salt and white pepper. Transfer the puree to a small saucepan, cover, and set aside.
For the trout: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals in an even layer in the bottom of the grill. Place the grill rack at its normal height.
Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the skin of the trout with the canola oil to keep it from sticking to the grill rack. Lightly season the fillets on both sides with salt and white pepper. Place the fillets skin side down on the grill, cover the grill, and grill until the flesh is just cooked but still slightly translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle the fillets with lemon juice.
To serve: Reheat the cornbread puree over low heat. Lay a trout fillet on each of four warm plates and sprinkle with a few grains of finishing salt. Put a spoonful of the cornbread puree beside each fillet.
Cornmeal-Dusted Grouper with Herb Puree
Serves 4
Herb Puree
Kosher salt
1 cup tightly packed mixed herb leaves, such as basil and parsley
¼ teaspoon grated garlic
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Grouper
1 cup fine white cornmeal, preferably Anson Mills (see Resources)
2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
2 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper, plus more for seasoning
Four 6-ounce skinless grouper fillets, about ¾ inch thick
2 tablespoons canola oil
Herbs and edible flowers, such as basil, fennel, and elderflower (optional)
goes well with:
Crowder Pea and Hominy Succotash
Dredging a pristine fillet of your favorite fish in seasoned high-quality cornmeal is a great way to give it a crispy texture without dealing with messy breading that can mask the flavor of the fish. As the cornmeal toasts and browns in the hot skillet, it gives off an aroma reminiscent of cornbread, which is never a bad thing. This herb puree is amazing with fish, but you can add it to almost any dish for a burst of bright, fresh flavor.
For the herb puree: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Put the herb leaves in a large mesh strainer and submerge them in the boiling water until tender and bright green, about 30 seconds. Leaving them in the strainer, transfer the herbs to the ice bath and submerge until completely cold. Remove from the ice bath, shake off the excess water, and drain the leaves on paper towels. Reserve ¼ cup of the ice water.
Combine the herbs, garlic, and reserved ¼ cup water in a blender and blend on high until completely smooth, about 1 minute. With the blender running on low, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Blend in ½ teaspoon salt. Transfer to a container, cover, and set aside. (The herb puree can be made ahead. Tightly covered, it will keep for up to 1 day in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before using.)
For the grouper: Combine the cornmeal, salt, and white pepper in a large shallow bowl and mix well. Season the grouper fillets liberally with salt and white pepper. Dredge the fillets in the cornmeal, gently shaking off any excess, and put them on a large plate.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Heat the canola oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the fillets in the skillet skinned side up and sear them for 2 minutes, without moving them. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the fillets are golden brown on the first side, about 3 minutes. (Peek under a fillet to check.) Turn them over and continue to cook just until the flesh flakes when gently prodded with a fork, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the fillets to the prepared baking sheet to drain briefly.
To serve: Place a grouper fillet on each of four warm plates. Spoon the herb puree next to the fillets. Garnish with the herbs and flowers, if using.
Fried Catfish with Green Tomato Tartar Sauce
Serves 6
Canola oil for deep-frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup full-fat buttermilk (see Note)
1 cup fine yellow cornmeal
Six 5- to 7-ounce skinless farm-raised catfish fillets (such as Carolina Classics; see Resources), about ½ inch thick, each cut lengthwise into 3 strips
Kosher salt
¼ cup Blackening Seasoning
About 1½ cups Green Tomato Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons finely sliced chives
goes well with:
The inspiration for this dish comes from Arnold’s Country Kitchen, a Nashville meat-and-three. It’s a cafeteria-style restaurant, and as you make your way down the line, you’ll see people from every walk of life. I love Arnold’s fried catfish, and here is my interpretation, served with a green tomato version of tartar sauce.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Fill a deep fryer with canola oil according to the manufacturer’s directions and heat the oil to 350°F. Alternatively, fill a deep heavy pot half full with canola oil and heat the oil over medium heat to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
Put the flour, buttermilk, and cornmeal in three separate shallow bowls. Liberally season the catfish strips with salt and about 3 tablespoons of the blackening seasoning. Working in batches, dredge the strips in the flour, then the buttermilk, and finally in the cornmeal and add them to the hot oil. Fry the strips until cooked through, crispy, and golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the fish to the prepared baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining strips.
Divide the catfish among six plates and sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of blackening seasoning and the chives. Serve each portion with a spoonful of the tartar sauce.
Green Tomato Tartar Sauce
Makes 2½ cups
1¾ cups mayonnaise, preferably Duke’s (see Resources)
3 tablespoons ⅛-inch dice Pickled Green Tomatoes, plus 2 tablespoons of their pickling liquid
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon chopped capers
2 tablespoons ⅛-inch dice shallot
1 heaping tablespoon chopped dill
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup very thinly sliced sweet onion
Put all the ingredients except the onion in a small bowl and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until cold. (Tightly covered, the tartar sauce base will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.)
Just before serving, fold the onion into the sauce base.
Beeliner Snapper with Fried Peppers
Serves 4
1 tablespoon Rendered Fresh Lard or vegetable oil
Eight 3-ounce skin-on beeliner snapper fillets, about ½ inch thick, lightly scored on the skin side
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ cup very thinly sliced red bell pepper
½ cup very thinly sliced green bell pepper
2 tablespoons Pepper Sauce
goes well with:
Field peas (see How to Cook Fresh Field Peas or Butter Beans)
Beeliner snapper, also called vermilion snapper, is at its peak in the summer season, so I gravitate toward serving it with sweet peppers and other sun-ripened seasonal produce. The snapper fillets are seared in lard, which adds a subtle layer of flavor to the dish. It also makes the fried peppers cooked in the same skillet that much more delicious. But if you don’t want to use pork fat, vegetable oil will get the job done.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels.
Cook the snapper in two batches: Heat half the lard in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Season the fillets liberally with salt and white pepper. Place a fillet in the skillet skin side down, applying light pressure on it with a spatula for about 30 seconds before adding another and pressing it down. This will help set the skin, keep the skin from curling, and cook the fish evenly. Repeat with 2 more fillets. Cook the fillets until the skin is crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn them over and cook just until the flesh flakes when gently prodded with a fork, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer the fillets to the prepared baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you cook the second batch. Transfer the second batch to the baking sheet and return the skillet to the heat.
Add the bell peppers to the skillet, season them lightly with salt and white pepper, and fry until they start to soften and lightly brown, about 2 minutes. Add the pepper sauce to the pan and stir to coat the bell peppers. Remove from the heat.
Arrange the snapper fillets on a platter and top with the fried peppers.
Sheepshead “on the Half Shell” with Tomato Gravy
Serves 4
1 tablespoon Rendered Bacon Fat
1 tablespoon fine white cornmeal, preferably Anson Mills (see Resources)
1½ cups Preserved Tomatoesor canned whole tomatoes, with their juices
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
1 teaspoon Hot Sauce or Red Clay Original Hot Sauce (see Resources)
Sheepshead
Four 6- to 7-ounce skin-on sheepshead fillets, about ½ inch thick, scales left on (see Note)
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
¼ cup Parsley Sauce
Goes Well With:
The sheepshead is an Atlantic saltwater fish found from Nova Scotia all the way south to Brazil. Its mouth, with its eerily human-looking teeth, allows it to eat barnacles off rocks and pilings, which is where you’ll find the fish. There’s a bit of a ritual to catching sheepshead, from digging the fiddler crabs for bait in the morning to rigging your pole for the particular challenge of hooking one (they’re so good at stealing bait, they’re called “saltwater bandits”), which makes fishing for them damn enjoyable.
My favorite way to cook a sheepshead is “on the half shell,” a technique used with redfish all along the Gulf Coast. I leave the scales on the fillets and gently cook them skin side down on the grill; the scales protect the skin, which holds in the moisture as the fish cooks, rendering it succulent and tender. As a result of its diet, sheepshead has a mild shellfish flavor, which is accentuated when you cook it this way. When it’s time to serve, simply lift the fillets away from the skin.
Note: You’ll need to request scale-on fillets from your fishmonger. If you can’t get sheepshead, you could substitute triggerfish or tilefish.
For the tomato gravy: Heat the bacon fat in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Stir in the cornmeal with a wooden spoon, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring constantly, until the cornmeal turns a light brown color, about 3 minutes.
Put the tomatoes in a bowl and crush them into bite-sized pieces with your hands. Add the tomatoes and their juices to the saucepan and stir to combine. Increase the heat to medium, bring the gravy to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has thickened slightly and the cornmeal is soft, about 10 minutes; be careful that it doesn’t stick or scorch. Add the salt, black pepper, and hot sauce and stir to combine. Remove from the stove, cover, and set aside.
For the sheepshead: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals over one side of the bottom of the grill. Place the grill rack at its normal height.
Place the sheepshead skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet and use a pastry brush to lightly brush the skin with olive oil to keep it from sticking to the grill rack. Liberally season the fillets with salt and white pepper.
Place the fillets skin side down on the cooler side of the grill, cover the grill, and grill for about 3 minutes. Rotate the fillets 180 degrees and grill until the flesh is just starting to flake when gently prodded with a fork but still moist, 2 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the grilled fillets to a clean rimmed baking sheet and brush the tops with the parsley sauce.
To serve: Spoon a circle of the tomato gravy in the center of each of four warm plates. Carefully lift the sheepshead fillets away from the skin and lay a fillet on top of the tomato gravy on each plate.
Potlikker-Steamed Sea Bass with Corn Dodgers
Serves 6
turnip green Potlikker
1 pound turnip greens
¾ cup diced fat from a country ham (or from really fatty bacon)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon dried shrimp (see Resources)
12 cups water
½ cup turnip vinegar (see Turnip Ferment) or apple cider vinegar
1½ teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
Corn Dodgers
½ cup fine yellow cornmeal, preferably Anson Mills (see Resources
½ cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
¾ cup water
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 large eggs
½ cup grated Gruyère-type cheese (about 2 ounces), preferably Kenny’s Farmhouse Norwood Cheese (see Resources)
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Sea Bass
Canola oil for the steamer insert
Six 6- to 7-ounce skin-on black sea bass fillets, about ½ inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Equipment
Pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip
Large saucepan with a steamer insert
goes well with:
Steaming is, no question, my favorite way to cook a fresh piece of black sea bass. There is something so delicate about this fish; the skin, the flesh, and the flavor all demand simplicity to allow them to shine. I use an aromatic liquid to steam the bass—in this case, one that has a Southern context: potlikker. This recipe treats the potlikker less like the result of cooking a pot of greens and more like the star of its own show.
Traditionally, corn dodgers are simply cornmeal mixed with a liquid, and perhaps some fat and onions, shaped into balls, and poached or simmered in potlikker or water. The texture of those traditional versions can often leave a lot to be desired, though. These corn dodgers are more delicate but still deliver that cornmeal flavor. They are poached in the same potlikker used to steam the fish, another example of my drive to echo flavors throughout a dish in different ways.
For the potlikker: Remove the stems from the turnip greens and discard. Make stacks of the leaves, roll them up into cylinders, and slice the cylinders into ribbons about ½ inch wide. Wash them in the sink or a large bowl of cold water, changing the water several times if they are sandy. Drain and dry.
Combine the ham fat, dried shrimp, and dried oysters in a large pot and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the fat renders, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the water, vinegar, and red pepper flakes, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the turnip greens, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 30 minutes to allow the flavor to develop.
Strain the potlikker through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large container and set aside. You will need 7 cups of potlikker for the dish. If you like, you can reheat the greens in some of the extra potlikker and serve them alongside the dish, or just discard them. (Tightly covered, the extra potlikker will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. Use it for cooking the Braised Turnips or a pot of greens or field peas.)
For the corn dodgers: Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the cornmeal and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is toasted and starts to smell a little nutty. Spread the cornmeal out on a plate and cool to room temperature.
Combine the cornmeal, flour, and salt in a small bowl.
Combine the water and butter in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, stir in the cornmeal mixture with a wooden spoon, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from the stove and cool until just warm, about 10 minutes.
Transfer the cornmeal mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a hand mixer and a large bowl). With the mixer on low speed, mix in the eggs one at a time, being sure each one is completely incorporated before adding the next. Add the cheese and parsley and mix until just combined. Transfer the mixture to the pastry bag.
Put 3 cups of the potlikker in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Form the corn dodgers by piping the batter directly into the potlikker, cutting off ¾-inch lengths of batter with a knife as you pipe it; work in batches of about 15 so that you don’t overcrowd the saucepan. Cook the corn dodgers until they are set and cooked through: They will initially sink into the potlikker and then will float to the surface; once they rise to the surface, cook for about 1 minute more. Transfer the cooked corn dodgers to a large skillet, along with about ¼ cup of the potlikker, and cover to keep warm while you cook the remaining batches. You want 42 corn dodgers.
For the sea bass: Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly oil the steamer insert to prevent the fish from sticking.
Cut each fillet crosswise in half and lightly season with salt and white pepper. Put 4 cups of the potlikker in the saucepan with the steamer insert and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Place 6 fillets skin side up in the steamer insert in one layer, without touching. Cover the saucepan and steam the fillets for 3 to 4 minutes, until they just begin to flake when lifted from the insert. Transfer the first batch to the prepared baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while you cook the second batch.
To serve: Warm the corn dodgers over medium heat. Carefully place 2 pieces of fish in each of six warm shallow bowls and pour in some of the hot potlikker from the steamer. Divide the corn dodgers among the bowls.
Serves 4
Fish-Head Stock
3 pounds fish heads (see Note), scaled and rinsed under cold water to remove any traces of blood
10 cups water
1 large sweet onion (about 8 ounces), thinly sliced
2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, thinly sliced
2 fresh bay leaves
5 thyme sprigs
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Stew
1 cup medium dice sweet onion
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped seeded jalapeño pepper
½ teaspoon Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Salt (see Resources)
½ teaspoon Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Black Pepper (see Resources)
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 tablespoons small dice celery
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1⅓ cups Preserved Tomatoes or canned whole tomatoes, passed through a food mill, with their juices
1 fresh bay leaf
¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper (see Resources)
Rice
4 cups water
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 fresh bay leaf
1 cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice (see Resources)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
1 tablespoon Anson Mills Antebellum Benne Seeds (see Resources)
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves for garnish
1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion greens for garnish
2 teaspoons onion flowers for garnish (optional)
Fish-head stew is one of the many great contributions to the food of the Lowcountry from the Gullah Geechee community. It’s not something you’re likely to find on a restaurant menu these days, so I hope you’ll cook it at home. The rich stew, served over rice, epitomizes the practice of using every part of an ingredient and not wasting a thing. But using the heads is not just frugality for frugality’s sake; some of the most flavorful meat is found in the head. A little extra time and effort spent picking through the cracks and crevices of the heads will yield all the delicious fat and collagen with its sticky, wonderful goodness. I’ve eaten versions of this dish on my visits to Senegal, and I combined what I saw there with the flavors of Charleston to create this take on it.
Note: Ask your fishmonger for fresh fish heads with the collars still attached, preferably from 2- to 3-pound whole fish.
For the stock: Combine the fish heads and water in a large pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Add the onion, celery, carrot, bay leaves, thyme, white peppercorns, and salt and return to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the flesh on the fish heads pulls away easily when picked with a fork, about 30 minutes.
Carefully transfer the fish heads to a rimmed baking sheet and cool. Strain the fish-head stock. (The stock can be made ahead. Once cooled, it can be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.) Pour 3½ cups of the stock into a heatproof container and set aside. (The remaining stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days—or up to 1 day if you made it ahead—or frozen for up to 3 months.)
When the fish heads have cooled enough to handle, carefully pick the flesh, discarding the skin, eyes, bones, cartilage, and any remaining scales. Put the flesh in a container, cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate. (Tightly covered, the fish will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.)
For the stew: Combine the onion, garlic, jalapeño, smoked salt, and smoked pepper in a mortar and crush with the pestle until the mixture becomes a wet paste.
Heat the canola oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the celery and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add half the onion mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until some of the moisture evaporates, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes to make a light roux. Slowly add 1½ cups of the reserved fish-head stock to the roux, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Stir in the tomatoes, bay leaf, and Aleppo pepper and simmer for 15 minutes to develop the flavors.
Stir in the remaining onion mixture and simmer for 3 minutes more. Remove from the stove and cover to keep warm. (The stew can be made ahead. Tightly covered once cooled, it will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.)
for the rice: While the stew is simmering, preheat the oven to 300°F. Combine the water, salt, white pepper, and bay leaf in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and stir to be sure the salt has dissolved completely. Reduce the heat to medium, add the rice, stir once, and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain.
Spread the rice out on a rimmed baking sheet; remove and discard the bay leaf. Place the rice in the oven to dry for 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally. Scatter the butter evenly over the rice and return it to the oven for 5 minutes, stirring it twice during that time, until the rice is dry. All the excess moisture should have evaporated and the grains should be separate.
While the rice is in the oven, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the benne seeds and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are toasted and start to smell a little nutty. Transfer to a plate to cool.
Combine the reserved fish and the remaining 2 cups fish-head stock in a small saucepan and gently reheat over low heat. Reheat the stew over medium heat; remove and discard the bay leaf.
To serve: Divide the rice among four warm bowls. Leaving any stock in the saucepan, divide the fish among the bowls, placing it beside the rice. Ladle the stew over everything, sprinkle with the benne seeds, parsley, scallion, and onion flowers, if using, and serve.
Serves 6
2 tablespoons canola oil
6 ounces andouille sausage, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
2 ounces fatty country ham scraps, preferably Bob Wood’s Country Ham Trimmings (see Resources), diced
1 cup small dice sweet onion
⅓ cup small dice red bell pepper
⅓ cup small dice green bell pepper
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice (see Resources)
1 cup Chicken Stock
24 oysters, shucked, liquor reserved
⅔ cup Preserved Tomatoes or canned whole tomatoes, drained and roughly chopped
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Thirty 26–30-count shrimp, preferably local, peeled and deveined
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Hot Sauce or Red Clay Original Hot Sauce (see Resources)
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup thinly sliced scallion greens
Goes Well With:
Peach and Tomato Salad with Cottage Cheese, Watercress, and Pawpaw Vinaigrette
Shrimp and oyster purloo is 100 percent my kind of dish. First, it’s a timeless recipe that doesn’t get the culinary credit it deserves. I like to think of it as the South’s version of paella, and when it’s cooked well, it evokes the same emotions but reflects the culture and tradition of the microregion where it’s made. Second, it’s truly a one-pot dish, from start to finish to serving, making it a perfect meal to cook at home.
Heat the canola oil in a large cast-iron Dutch oven or other heavy pot with a lid over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the sausage and ham scraps and cook, stirring frequently, until the ham fat has rendered and the sausage is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and bell peppers and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent and very fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Stir in the rice and cook, stirring, to toast the rice, about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock, oyster liquor, tomatoes, cayenne, red pepper flakes, salt, and white pepper and stir to combine. Once the mixture comes to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is tender and just starting to make a caramelized crust on the bottom of the pot, about 18 minutes. Watch carefully, because you want to add the shrimp in a single layer about 3 minutes before the rice is done, then cover the pot to let the rice finish cooking.
Remove the pot from the heat and add the oysters. Gently stir in the lemon juice, hot sauce, and parsley. Sprinkle with the scallion greens and serve family-style, directly from the Dutch oven.