Makes 3 quarts
3½ cups distilled white vinegar
3½ cups water
½ cup sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
3 tablespoons ⅛-inch dice sweet onion
6 fresh bay leaves
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
1¼ teaspoons ground turmeric
1 teaspoon celery seeds
2 tablespoons dill seeds
1½ teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
9 black peppercorns
3 garlic cloves
9 large dill sprigs
3 pounds heirloom beans, such as greasy, cut-short, half-runner, or Turkey Craw, washed, strings removed, and trimmed to fit the jars if necessary
These classic Southern pickled beans are great on their own, but they really shine next to freshly sliced good country ham.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, onion, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, turmeric, and celery seeds in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Turn off the heat.
Put 2 teaspoons of the dill seeds, ½ teaspoon of the mustard seeds, 3 peppercorns, 1 garlic clove, and 3 dill sprigs in each sterilized jar. Fill the jars with the beans, standing them up vertically, and ladle over the hot pickling liquid, leaving a ½-inch headspace. Wipe the rims and threads clean. Place the lids and rings on the jars and finger-tighten the rings.
Process the jars in a boiling-water bath for 13 minutes according to the canning instructions (see here). It is important that the jars seal properly and a vacuum forms. If any jars did not seal, you must store them in the refrigerator. Allow the beans to cure for 1 week before eating. Properly sealed, the beans will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Refrigerate after opening.
Makes 5 quarts
5 pounds medium okra pods
7½ cups apple cider vinegar
3 cups water
7 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced (with seeds)
7 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1½ cups kosher salt
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1½ tablespoons ground turmeric
1½ tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
Goes Well With:
I learned how to make pickled okra at the Peninsula Grill, cooking under chef Bob Carter. It was my first job at a well-known restaurant. I’ve used the same technique and flavors ever since. Pickled okra is excellent fried or sliced very thin and served over roasted fish. You could also add some to some cooked Carolina Gold rice to make a new version of Limpin’ Susan.
Sterilize five 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Make a small slit under the cap of each okra pod so that the pickling liquid can enter the pods. Pack the okra tightly into the jars.
Combine the vinegar, water, jalapeños, garlic, salt, sugar, turmeric, and mustard seeds in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the salt and sugar.
Ladle the mixture over the okra, leaving a ½-inch headspace. Wipe the rims and threads clean. Put the lids and rings on the jars and finger-tighten the rings.
Process the jars in a boiling-water bath for 15 minutes according to the canning instructions (see here). It is important that the jars seal properly and a vacuum forms. If any jars did not seal, you must store them in the refrigerator. Allow the okra to cure for 1 week before eating. Properly sealed, the okra will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Refrigerate after opening.
Note: This recipe also works as a quick pickle. Halve the recipe and store the jars in the refrigerator. Allow the okra to cure for 1 week before eating.
Makes 3 quarts
2 pounds Kirby cucumbers
2 cups small dice sweet onions (about 8 ounces)
¼ cup kosher salt
1 pound crushed ice
2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon celery seeds
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 fresh bay leaf, torn into pieces
3 whole cloves
½ jalapeño pepper, sliced paper-thin (with seeds)
Goes Well With:
Bread-and-butter pickles are one of my favorite treats. This recipe makes a quick pickle that keeps for up to 2 months in the refrigerator. If you like, you can process the jars in a boiling-water bath for 10 minutes to store them for longer (see here).
Cut the blossom ends off the cucumbers and slice the cucumbers into ⅛-inch-thick slices. To draw out the excess liquid and increase the crunch, layer the cucumber slices with the onions, salt, and ice in a glass or stainless steel container and weight with a plate large enough to cover the cucumbers and keep them submerged when the ice melts. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Drain the cucumbers and onions, put them in a large nonreactive pot, and add the sugar, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, vinegar, bay leaf, cloves, and jalapeño. Bring to a simmer over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Using an instant-read thermometer to check, make sure the internal temperature of the cucumbers reaches 180°F and stays there for 90 seconds. Skim off any foam that has risen to the top.
Divide the hot cucumbers among the sterilized jars. Ladle the hot vinegar mixture over the cucumbers, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims and threads clean, put the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings. Cool the jars to room temperature.
Refrigerate the jars and let the pickles cure for at least 1 week before eating. Unopened, the pickles will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Preserving is not just the practical act of saving that year’s crops; in many cases, it’s also about protecting a practice that has been a part of Southern culture and identity for centuries. To me, the continued tradition of conserving food for later use is an important one to keep alive at a time when almost everything we want is available year-round at the local supermarket.
The kitchen was always buzzing at my grandmother’s home in Pound, Virginia. There was rarely a time when some sort of food preparation wasn’t going on. If you were watching television, you were snapping beans. If you were porch sitting, you were shucking corn or grating cabbage. Growing up, I thought that’s what every family did. I wasn’t allowed to sit back and watch my family painfully cracking walnuts (and occasionally a thumb); I had to grab a hammer and crack walnuts too. But it was always great to catch up with my cousins or aunts and uncles and listen to stories from the old-timers. I miss those days, and I look forward to when I’ll be the old-timer, sitting there in my overalls and peeling apples with a pocketknife.
I was in my teens when I realized that much of this work was done to feed my family during rougher times, so preserving took on a whole new meaning for me. It was also around the same time that my grandmother’s basement stopped being a scary place and became a delicious place. When I eventually moved away from southwest Virginia and started cooking in professional kitchens, I began to understand how special the food in my grandmother’s basement was.
Why should we still go through all the trouble of picking, cleaning, chopping, curing, drying, boiling, sealing, smoking, or salting? The act of preservation is also one of transformation. A frugal Southerner will try to preserve just about anything. But just as often, ingredients are preserved to make them taste even better. If you have ever sat down to a lunch of leather britches (dried pole beans, an Appalachian specialty), some mixed pickles, and a hunk of good cornbread, you know what I mean. Those beans were no doubt delicious fresh in the field and would be amazing canned, but drying them, traditionally by stringing them up and hanging them over the hearth or a wood-burning stove, turned them into something special. After some time spent relaxing in a crock in the pantry, the vegetables in the pickle mix, which were picked at their prime, now act as a salty/sour/funky foil to the savory beans and cornbread.
Thoughtful preserving is also the best way to support your local agriculture. You wouldn’t believe how much perfectly good food goes into the compost pile at great farms everywhere because they simply can’t sell all their harvest. If we all took the time to live a little more like our grandparents did, we could really make a big difference in the livelihood of our local producers.
As a Southerner, I’m serious about preserving the things I love and am proud of. The history and traditions of these techniques are the roots of my idea of Southern cooking.
Guidelines for Preserving
Most of the recipes in this chapter are examples of pickling with vinegar, using lactic fermentation, or cooking fruits with sugar. Each technique is different, but they share the goal of making a flavorful product that is more shelf-stable than the fresh ingredients that went into it.
Here are some practical guidelines for preserving and canning that will help to ensure that you safely and successfully put up whatever beautiful produce you might have. I also recommend taking the time to study the detailed instructions provided by the National Center for Home Food Preservation and by the Ball Corporation (see Resources).
•First, the importance of cleanliness and freshness can’t be overstated. The ingredients you are preserving, as well as your work surface and kitchen tools, need to be impeccably clean. Choose fruits and vegetables that don’t have any sign of rot or mold.
•For pickling, distilled white vinegar and apple cider vinegar are the acids of choice. You can experiment with vinegars for quick pickles, because they will be kept refrigerated, but for preserving or canning safely, you must use a vinegar with an acidity of 5 percent or higher. The acidity acts both to preserve the food and to prevent the growth of bacteria.
•Use kosher salt or pickling salt for pickles. Iodized table salt or sea salts with other minerals will change the flavor of whatever you are preserving.
For Lactic Fermentation
•Invest in a stoneware pickling crock, or use one that’s been passed down in your family through the generations. Make sure there are no cracks in the glazing or through the crock itself. Those little nooks and crannies are the perfect hiding places for microbes that can ruin all your hard work. The size depends on what sort of quantities you intend to put up. Most of the recipes in this book call for a 1-gallon crock.
•Traditionally I’ve used layers of cheesecloth to cover ferments, and that certainly gets the job done, but recently I’ve found that a nylon-mesh filter bag, specifically one of those used for straining nut milks, makes an excellent, breathable barrier for my crocks. These are widely available online and in health food stores. Buy one and cut it into squares large enough to cover your ferment. You only need to use one layer, and these are reusable, good for many projects.
The jars you use must be sterilized. Here’s how.
•Fill a large canning pot fitted with a rack three-quarters full with water. Place your canning jars and rings in the pot and bring the water to a boil over high heat. When the water has come to a boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover the pot.
•Meanwhile, put the lids in a saucepan of hot water and heat until the water reaches 180°F. (Never boil the lids, because the sealant material may get damaged and then won’t produce a safe seal.) Remove from the heat and cover the pan.
•Lay a clean kitchen towel out on the counter or set out a wire rack. When you are ready to fill the jars, using canning tongs, remove them from the pot and invert them onto the towel or rack. Leave them there for 1 minute, then turn them right side up and fill them. You want the jars to be hot when you put the food into them. Use tongs to remove the lids and rings and shake off the water before putting them on the jars.
It is important that the jars seal properly and a vacuum forms. When this occurs, the lids become concave in the center and you can’t pop the button up and down. The lids usually ping when this happens, but since sealing may take several hours, you should always check the lids before you store the jars, not just rely on hearing a ping. If the jars have sealed properly, it is safe to store them in a pantry or other cool, dark place for up to 6 months. If not, store the jars in the refrigerator. Unopened, most pickles and preserves will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
A boiling-water-bath canning pot has a fitted lid and a removable rack to hold the jars, preferably one with handles so that you can load all the jars onto the rack and lift them into and out of the canning pot all at once. If you have an electric or induction stovetop, the bottom of the pot must sit flat, and the pot should be no more than 4 inches wider in diameter than the burner or heating element, no matter what type of stove you have. The pot must be deep enough that the jars will always be covered with at least 1 inch of boiling water during processing.
Tips to Ensure Safety and Consistency
•Ladle the food into the sterilized jars through a widemouthed funnel, making sure to leave the specified headspace.
•Before putting the lids on, run a clean thin-bladed knife around the inside of each jar to release any air bubbles. Wipe the rims and threads clean. Attach the lids and rings. Screw the rings on firmly but not tight (“finger-tighten”).
•Have the water in the canning pot at a high boil. Lower the jars into the boiling water. If using canning tongs, hold the jars below the rings, and be careful not to tilt them. The jars must be covered by at least 1 inch of boiling water at all times during processing; add more boiling water if needed. Cover the pot and return the water to a boil. Process the food for the time specified.
•Lift the jars out using the rack or canning tongs. Set them at least an inch apart on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop). Cool to room temperature and make sure the jars have sealed before tightening the rings again and storing.
Makes 1 quart
1 pound mild chili peppers, such as ají dulce or shishito, slit lengthwise down one side and stems trimmed to ¼ inch
1 large garlic clove, peeled
1 fresh bay leaf
2 cups rice vinegar
1⅓ cups water
⅔ cup sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
goes well with:
Grilled Chicken Wings with West African BBQ Sauce
Grilled Oysters with Green Garlic Butter
I can find room for these simple pickles on any dish, but they are especially good with pimento cheese or grilled fish.
Sterilize a 1-quart canning jar, along with its ring and lid (see here), and put it on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop). Put the peppers, garlic, and bay leaf in the jar.
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a medium nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar and salt. Ladle the liquid over the peppers. Wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Cool the jar to room temperature, then refrigerate the peppers for at least 1 week before eating to allow them to cure. Tightly sealed, the peppers will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Note: For longer storage, the peppers can be processed according to the instructions for boiling-water canning (see here). Process for 10 minutes. Properly sealed, the peppers will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 3 quarts
3½ pounds green heirloom tomatoes, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds
¼ cup ½-inch-thick slices jalapeño peppers (with seeds)
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
¾ teaspoon fennel seeds
¾ teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
¾ teaspoon black peppercorns
1¼ cups apple cider vinegar
1¼ cups rice vinegar
1¼ cups water
1 cup sugar
1½ star anise pods
1 green cardamom pod, cracked
1 fresh bay leaf
goes well with:
Crispy Pig’s Ears with Pimento Ranch
Fried Bologna with Pickled Peach Mustard
John Egerton’s Beaten Biscuits
This super-simple recipe is perfect for preserving those fall green tomatoes that probably aren’t going to make it all the way to ripe. You can dredge the pickled tomatoes in cornmeal and panfry them (see Fried Green Tomatoes). They also make a great base for delicious relish on the fly, especially with a nice piece of fish—just add some thinly sliced sweet onions. This pickling brine will work with just about anything.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Divide the tomato slices, jalapeño slices, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, and peppercorns among the jars, packing them in tightly.
Combine the vinegars, water, sugar, star anise, cardamom pod, and bay leaf in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Strain the mixture into the jars; discard the solids. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings. Cool the jars to room temperature, then refrigerate the jars and allow the tomatoes to cure for 1 week before eating. Tightly sealed, the tomatoes will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Note: For longer storage, the tomatoes can be processed according to the instructions for boiling-water canning (see here). Process for 10 minutes. Properly sealed, the jars will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 12 pickled peaches
12 large ripe peaches
3½ cups distilled white vinegar
3 cups water
2½ cups sugar
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised by beating with the back of a chef’s knife, then chopped
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
15 black peppercorns
10 allspice berries
2 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
Pinch of ground mace
goes well with:
Spring Lamb with Rhubarb Butter
Pickled peaches straddle the line between savory and sweet. They’re equally at home incorporated into a tangy barbecue sauce or finely chopped as a tart topping for good vanilla ice cream. Taste them, and you’ll think of a hundred things to eat them with.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Submerge the peaches in the boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool them and stop the cooking. Peel the peaches and place them in a nonreactive heatproof container.
Combine all the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.
Pour the hot pickling liquid over the peaches. Cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 week before eating to allow the peaches to cure. Tightly sealed, the peaches will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 3 quarts
2½ pounds ramps, cleaned and leaves and hairy root ends removed
¼ cup ½-inch-thick slices jalapeño peppers (with seeds)
1¼ cups apple cider vinegar
1¼ cups rice vinegar
1¼ cups water
1¼ cups sugar
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
¾ teaspoon fennel seeds
¾ teaspoon black peppercorns
3 whole cloves
1½ star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick
1 green cardamom pod, cracked
1 fresh bay leaf
goes well with:
Grilled Trout with Cornbread Puree
Ramp season is never long, and some years it’s fleetingly quick. Pickling these iconic foraged bulbs is a way to enjoy their unique flavor all year until it’s time to dig some more.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Combine all the ingredients in a large nonreactive pot and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Remove the pot from the heat.
Divide the ramp mixture among the canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings. Cool the jars to room temperature, then refrigerate the jars and allow the ramps to cure for 1 week before eating. Tightly sealed, the ramps will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Note: For longer storage, the ramps can be processed according to the instructions for boiling-water canning (see here). Process for 10 minutes. Properly sealed, the jars will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 3 quarts
4 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon mustard powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 bay leaf
3 large fennel bulbs (about 3 pounds), stalks removed and discarded, bottoms trimmed, and bulbs cut into large dice
goes well with:
Grilled Catfish with Barely Cooked Tomatoes
Pork Shoulder Steak with Grilled Mushrooms
Try these fennel pickles as an accompaniment to smoky grilled pork.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Combine all the ingredients except the fennel in a large nonreactive pot and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Remove the pot from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Add the diced fennel to the pickling mixture and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the stove.
Divide the fennel mixture among the canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings. Cool the jars to room temperature, then refrigerate the jars and allow the fennel to cure for 1 week before eating. Tightly sealed, the fennel will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Note: For longer storage, the fennel can be processed according to the instructions for boiling-water canning (see here). Process for 10 minutes. Properly sealed, the jars will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 12 pickled eggs
12 large eggs
3 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 cups water
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 whole cloves
½ cinnamon stick
Goes Well With:
File these pickled eggs under “childhood avoidance turned adult craving.” Today I’m always happy to see pickled eggs served as part of a Southern spread.
Using a sewing needle or pushpin, pierce a hole in the shell at the wide end of each egg. Put the eggs in a large saucepan and cover them with room-temperature water. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat and boil the eggs for 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the stove, cover it, and leave the eggs in the water for 10 minutes.
Carefully drain the eggs in a colander in the sink, then peel them under cold running water. Put the eggs in a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
Combine the vinegars, 2 cups water, sugar, salt, cloves, and cinnamon stick in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Transfer the mixture to a nonreactive container and cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until completely cold.
Add the eggs to the chilled brine, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 week before eating; stir and turn them occasionally. Tightly covered, the eggs will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes 1 pint
4 cups water
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon black peppercorns
1¼ teaspoons dried basil
1 large garlic clove, peeled
4 pounds medium asparagus, tough ends cut off
¾ cup white wine vinegar
Equipment
Juice extractor
goes well with:
You can brine and cure every kind of stem or vegetable that you could imagine, just like traditional capers. Asparagus “capers” are a great way to utilize the short Southern growing season and add a delicious salty, sour, funky note to anything from simply prepared vegetables to traditional sauces.
Bring 2 cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Add ¼ cup of the salt and stir to completely dissolve it. Remove from the stove, add the peppercorns, basil, and garlic, and let them steep in the brine while it cools to room temperature, then drain the brine through a fine-mesh sieve into a large nonreactive container. Discard the solids.
While the brine is cooling, roughly chop 2 pounds of the asparagus and run it through the juice extractor. Remove the pulp and run it through the juice extractor again to extract as much juice as possible. Strain the juice into the brine and stir well to combine.
Slice the remaining asparagus into ¼-inch-thick slices. Add to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for 2 days.
After 2 days, drain the asparagus and discard the brine.
Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons salt and stir until completely dissolved. Transfer the brine to a nonreactive heatproof container and cool to room temperature.
Add the asparagus to the brine, cover, and leave at room temperature for 24 hours.
Sterilize a 1-pint canning jar, along with its ring and lid (see here), and put it on a clean kitchen towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop). Drain the asparagus and add it to the jar.
Bring the vinegar to a simmer in a small saucepan and ladle it over the asparagus. Cool to room temperature, then wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Let stand at room temperature for 1 week, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the asparagus capers will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 1 pint
1 cup water
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 cups onion flowers
1 tablespoon Lindera Farms Ramp Vinegar (see Resources)
Equipment
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
goes well with:
Grilled Catfish with Hoppin’ John
At most farms, onion flowers are mowed over and turned under, but if you’re lucky, you can catch them before they’re gone and get them almost free. If you brine and ferment them, you’ll end up with capers with the distinctive flavor of onion that you can use anywhere you might use their more traditional Mediterranean counterparts.
Note: Onion flowers grow in huge clusters. Separate them from one another using sharp kitchen shears.
Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Remove from the stove, add the salt, and stir until completely dissolved. Cool to room temperature.
Put the onion flowers in a clean 1-pint canning jar, add the brine, cover with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth, and screw on the rim (without the lid). Put the jar in an area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let the onion flowers ferment until they are quite salty and pleasantly sour, about 10 days.
Remove the rim and mesh (or cheesecloth). Add the vinegar to the jar, wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Refrigerate the jar and allow the onion flower capers to cure for 1 month to develop flavor before eating. Tightly sealed, the onion flower capers will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 12 preserved lemons
2 cups sugar
2 cups kosher salt
12 lemons, washed and dried
goes well with:
Summer Melon with Country Ham and Grilled Honey–Black Pepper Vinaigrette
Use In:
Grilled Oysters with Green Garlic Butter
Baby Collards with Benne Caesar Dressing and Cornbread Croutons
The salty-sweet-sour flavor of preserved citrus might not be a staple of the Southern pantry, but I love to replicate flavors from around the globe using the bounty of the South. This recipe uses lemons, but try it with whatever fresh, beautiful citrus you have.
Combine the sugar and salt in a bowl and mix well.
Cut the lemons into quarters, stopping ½ inch from the bottom so they remain intact. Pack some of the sugar-salt mixture into the cuts in each lemon and gently press the pieces back together. Put the lemons in a plastic freezer bag and cover them with the remaining sugar-salt mixture. Seal the bag and freeze for 1 month before using. (Kept tightly sealed in the sugar-salt mix, the lemons can be frozen for up to 1 year.)
To use a lemon, rinse it thoroughly to remove all the salt and sugar. Scrape out all the flesh and white pith, leaving only the yellow peel; discard the flesh and pith. Thinly slice or dice the peel as specified in the recipe you are using.
Making your own vinegar might seem like a step too far for a lot of home cooks, but the truth is, it couldn’t be much simpler. More than anything, it is an investment of time; patience is the most challenging ingredient. I use three basic methods for making flavored vinegars at home: infusing alcohol with my desired flavor and then fermenting it into vinegar; using a steam juicer to infuse ingredients in white vinegar; and fermenting an ingredient into alcohol and then into vinegar. The three processes range from months of time and slightly more difficult to just a few hours and easy as can be. Seasoning a vegetable with a vinegar made from that same vegetable creates a depth of flavor and complexity that can take it from ordinary to amazing. Once you’ve made a vinegar or two using the following methods, you’ll be eyeing every possible ingredient, wondering what you can do with it.
How Vinegar Works
Almost every vinegar is the product of a simple chemical reaction. When wine is exposed to oxygen, acetobacters—or acetic acid bacteria—present in the air around us convert ethanol (alcohol) into acetic acid (vinegar) and water. As long as human beings have been fermenting ingredients into alcohol, acetobacters have been turning it into vinegar. Vinegar’s ability to deliciously acidify foods played a crucial role in the development of safe, stable ways of preserving foods. We eat pickles because they’re delicious, but pickling was traditionally a method of preserving fruits and vegetables.
Infusing an Existing Alcohol with Your Desired Flavor
This method is especially good for leafy ingredients. The recipe below is made with celery leaves, but you can use whatever herbaceous ingredient you like. This vinegar is made with white wine, but grain alcohol can also be used with this technique.
Celery Vinegar
Makes about 3 cups
One 750 ml bottle dry white wine
⅔ cup honey, preferably local
½ cup raw apple cider vinegar, such as Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
3 cups celery leaves, washed and dried
Equipment
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
Sterilize a 2-quart canning jar, along with its ring and lid (see here), and put it on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Combine the wine, honey, and vinegar in a bowl and whisk to dissolve the honey. Put the celery leaves in the bottom of the canning jar and cover with the wine mixture. Cover the jar with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth and secure it with butcher’s twine, tying a tight knot.
Put the jar in a dark area with a temperature of between 70°F and 75°F and let it ferment for about 2 months. Depending on the specific conditions, the vinegar may be ready sooner or later, so I recommend tasting the mixture after about a month. If it is still alcoholic, cover again and continue to ferment. You might notice a thin, almost gelatinous layer floating on top of your vinegar; this is the “mother” and is a great sign. It indicates that a happy, healthy colony of acetobacters is hard at work on your vinegar.
When your vinegar tastes pleasantly acidic with no alcohol flavor, it’s time to strain it. Remove the mother and put it in an airtight nonreactive container. Add just enough of the new vinegar to cover the mother. Seal the container tightly and store the mother in a cool, dark place. (Tightly covered, the mother will keep for at least a year.)
Strain the finished vinegar into a clean quart-size canning jar; discard the solids. Wipe the rim and threads clean. Place the lid and ring on the jar and tighten the ring. Tightly sealed, the celery vinegar will stay bright and flavorful for up to 1 year at room temperature.
Steam Juicer Vinegar
Makes about 2½ cups
The quickest and easiest method of making a flavored vinegar uses what I think is one of the coolest pieces of cooking equipment around, a steam juicer. A steam juicer is traditionally used to make jelly from fruits like grapes or apples. It works by steaming the ingredient of choice from below and collecting the concentrated juices that are released in a separate chamber of the pot. But why not use vinegar to make the steam?
3½ cups water, or as needed
2¾ cups Surig 25% Vinegar (see Resources)
3 pounds vegetables or fruits, such as cabbage or turnips, thinly sliced or chopped, depending on the ingredient
Equipment
Steam juicer
Combine the water and vinegar in the bottom of the steam juicer. Put the vegetables or fruit in the top of the juicer. Cover and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and steam until most of the water and vinegar are gone, 50 to 60 minutes. Check the level of water and vinegar often to avoid scorching the bottom of the juicer, and add ½ cup more water if the level becomes very low. Remove the entire juicer from the stove and set aside to cool to room temperature. This allows for as much extraction as possible.
Drain the vinegar through the attached hose into a nonreactive container; discard the solids. Cover and store at room temperature. Tightly covered, the vinegar will keep for up to 1 year.
Making Your Own Booze and Fermenting It into Vinegar
Making vinegar from alcohol is the most traditional method, but it’s also the most complicated and time-consuming one. I use the technique to make my favorite honey vinegar. The process starts with anaerobically fermenting honey and water in the presence of yeast into a honey wine, or mead. This can take up to a few months, depending on factors like temperature and whether you use commercial yeast or rely on the natural ones in the air around us.
After I make the honey wine, I ferment it into vinegar by exposing it to oxygen and, usually, adding a small amount of unpasteurized or “living” vinegar, which contains a colony of acetobacters. This vinegar mother is a floating cellulose-based structure made by the bacteria during acetic fermentation and is the best way to seed a new vinegar.
Makes 2 quarts
2½ pounds Charleston Hots or cayenne peppers, washed
5½ tablespoons coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
1 tablespoon dried rice koji (see Resources)
8 cups distilled white vinegar
Equipment
1-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Cheesecloth
Nylon mesh (see here; optional)
goes well with:
Everything
I use this method most summers to make a batch of hot sauce with rice koji. Koji is a grain, traditionally rice, that has been inoculated with the fungus Aspergillus orzyae. It is the ingredient that makes possible many traditional Japanese ingredients, from soy sauce to miso. The koji speeds up the fermentation process and helps to ensure against spoilage. It also acts like a natural thickener, creating a nicely textured hot sauce without the use of a modified starch like xanthan gum.
Remove the stems from the peppers and discard. Roughly chop the peppers. Put them in a large bowl and toss them with 3½ tablespoons of the salt.
Working in batches, transfer the peppers to a food processor and pulse until they are finely chopped but not pureed, about 10 times. Transfer the resulting mash to the pickling crock and fold in the rice. Place a square of cheesecloth on top and sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons salt evenly over the cheesecloth. Cover the crock with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth and secure with butcher’s twine, tying a tight knot.
Put the mash in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment for 1 month.
After 1 month, remove the mesh and lift away and discard the cheesecloth. There should be a beautiful bright red pepper mash underneath. Carefully pour the vinegar over the mash. Replace the mesh, secure it with butcher’s twine, and put the hot sauce in the same cool spot to age for 2 months.
Working in batches, transfer the mash to a blender and blend on high until smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve set over a container; discard the solids.
Ladle the hot sauce into two clean 1-quart canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the hot sauce will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator.
Makes about 1 quart
10 ounces chili peppers, such as green or red jalapeño, cayenne, or Charleston Hot, washed
1 tablespoon plus 2¼ teaspoons coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
4 cups distilled white vinegar
Equipment
Cheesecloth
Nylon mesh (see here; optional)
Use in:
Here’s another way to make vinegar at home (see How to Make Vinegar). Somewhere between a traditional vinegar and hot sauce, this piquant vinegar pairs brilliantly with Southern barbecue or anything you want to add a tangy kick to.
Remove the stems from the peppers and discard. Roughly chop the peppers. Put them in a large bowl and toss them with 1 tablespoon of the salt.
Transfer the peppers to a food processor and pulse until they are finely chopped but not pureed, about 10 times. Transfer the resulting mash to a clean 2-quart canning jar. Place a square of cheesecloth on top and sprinkle the remaining 2¼ teaspoons salt evenly over the cheesecloth. Cover the jar with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth and secure with butcher’s twine, tying a tight knot.
Put the mash in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment for 1 month.
After 1 month, remove the mesh and lift away and discard the cheesecloth. There should be a beautiful bright pepper mash underneath. Carefully pour the vinegar over the mash. Cover the jar with the mesh, secure it with butcher’s twine, and put the pepper vinegar in the same cool spot to age for 2 months.
Strain the vinegar through a fine-mesh sieve set over a container; discard the solids. Ladle the pepper vinegar into a clean 1-quart canning jar. Wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the pepper vinegar will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 3½ cups
2 pounds red jalapeño or cayenne peppers, washed, dried, and stems removed
2 tablespoons kosher salt
Equipment
Round 15-inch open-top fine-mesh wire grill basket
Cheesecloth
Nylon mesh (see here; optional)
Use in:
What could be more delicious than a funky, fermented pepper mash flavored with char from the hearth? The mash can be used in a thousand and one things, from Alabama White Sauce to Traditional Shrimp and Grits. After the fermentation, you could even pour over some distilled vinegar, age it a little longer, and make a charred hot sauce. How great does that sound?
Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill (see Grilling), removing the grill rack and distributing the hot coals in an even layer in the bottom of the grill.
Working in batches, place the peppers in a single layer in the grill basket, place the basket directly on the coals, and char the peppers on all sides, turning them with long-handled tongs, until blackened uniformly, about 10 minutes. Remove from the grill basket and cool to room temperature.
Roughly chop the peppers and put them in a food processor. Add 1 tablespoon of the salt and pulse until the peppers are finely chopped but not pureed, about 10 times.
Transfer the mash to a clean 1-quart canning jar. Place a square cheesecloth on top of the jar and sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of salt evenly over the cheesecloth. Cover the jar with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth and secure it with butcher’s twine, tying a tight knot.
Put the mash in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment for 1 month.
After 1 month, remove the nylon mesh and lift off the cheesecloth, revealing the bright red pepper mash underneath. Transfer the mash to a clean 1-quart jar. Wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the pepper mash will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes 2 cups
1⅓ cups Anson Mills Yellow Hominy Corn (see Resources)
10½ cups water
1 teaspoon culinary lime (see box, Culinary Lime, and Resources)
1¼ cups dried rice koji (see Resources)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
Bottled spring water
Equipment
Gallon freezer bag
1-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Use in:
Spring Lamb with Rhubarb Butter
I started playing around with making various misos and soy sauces using Southern ingredients in 2011. It was about a year after Husk had opened in Charleston, and I was starting to branch out creatively, tapping into the cuisines of other places and cultures for inspiration. I made miso out of various grains and legumes, from Sea Island red peas to green peanuts, but this hominy miso stood out. I find it so exciting to combine two of the cuisines I love the most: Southern and Japanese. Making miso at home takes some time and commitment, but it is totally worth it.
Combine the corn, 2½ cups of the water, and the culinary lime in a medium nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the outer hulls of the hominy begin to soften, about 35 minutes.
Drain the hominy in a colander and rinse it very well under cold running water. Transfer to a large nonreactive saucepan, add the remaining 8 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the hominy is soft, about 1½ hours. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.
Working in batches if necessary, transfer the hominy to a food processor and process until smooth, about 1½ minutes, adding just enough of the reserved cooking liquid so that it processes freely. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature.
Combine the koji and ¼ cup of the finishing salt in a glass bowl and gently massage together with your fingertips until well mixed. Fold the mixture into the hominy and stir to combine completely. If the mixture is too dry and crumbly, add bottled water 1 tablespoon at a time until the mixture is pasty and releases a small amount of clear liquid when pressed.
Place the mixture in the freezer bag, pushing it all the way down to the bottom to eliminate as much air as possible. Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of finishing salt over the top of the mixture and fold the top of the bag over it, but don’t seal the bag. Place the bag in the stoneware crock. Put at least 2 pounds of weight on top (a 1-quart canning jar filled with water works well). Put the crock in a dark area where the temperature will stay between 75°F and 85°F. After about 1 month, taste the miso; it should taste salty, sweet, and pleasantly savory, like a nice aged cheese.
Remove the clear liquid that has formed on top of the miso. (There will be only about 2 tablespoons of it, but you can refrigerate it for up to 6 months use as a salty seasoning, if you like.)
Working in two batches, transfer the miso to a food processor and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a nonreactive container with a lid. Place a piece of wax paper directly on top of the miso, to help prevent a skin from forming, then place the lid on the container and refrigerate. Tightly covered, the miso will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Check the wax paper occasionally and replace it if it has absorbed some of the liquid and become soggy.
Makes 4 quarts
8 cups water
⅓ cup pickling salt (see Note2)
1½ pounds fresh heirloom pole beans, such as greasy, cut-short, half-runner, or Turkey Craw, washed, strings removed, and broken into 1½-inch-long pieces
8 ears sweet corn, husks and silks removed
1 pound green cabbage, outer leaves removed, cored and finely chopped
1½ pounds green tomatoes, cored and cut into small dice
8 ounces banana peppers, cut into ½-inch-thick rings
Equipment
2-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
goes well with:
Grilled Trout with Cornbread Puree
The idea of mixed pickles might seem strange to a lot of people. When you hear the word pickle, the first thing that comes to mind is vinegar and acidity, not necessarily the funky sourness of lactic-fermented vegetables. If you read through the ingredients, they’re not all that dissimilar to those for a traditional chowchow, except for the vinegar and sugar you’d expect. I love that it’s a completely different way to preserve the same vegetables from the summer’s bounty. It’s a simple fermentation project worth every bit of the time and effort.
Put the water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the stove, add the pickling salt, and stir until completely dissolved. Cool to room temperature.
While the brine is cooling, put the beans in a large pot with enough water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the beans and cool to room temperature.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the corn and return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the corn just starts to soften, about 10 minutes. Transfer the corn to a rimmed baking sheet and cool to room temperature, then cut the kernels from the cobs.
Combine the green beans, corn kernels, cabbage, green tomatoes, and banana peppers in a large bowl and mix well, then transfer to the crock. Pour the brine over them. Weight the vegetables down with an inverted plate to help keep them submerged. Cover the crock with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth, securing it with butcher’s twine, then cover with a large plate.
Put the crock in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment until pleasantly sour, 2 to 3 weeks. Twice a week, remove the plate and mesh (or cheesecloth) and skim the top of the vegetables to remove any white scum, then replace the mesh and plate.
Drain the pickles, reserving the brine. Divide the pickles among four clean 1-quart canning jars and ladle in enough brine to fill them. Discard any extra brine. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the pickles will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator.
Makes about 2 cups
5 pounds boiled peanuts, from your favorite roadside stand or homemade (see Boiled Peanuts), drained of any liquid
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon dried rice koji (see Resources)
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
Bottled spring water, if needed
Equipment
Gallon freezer bag
1-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Use In:
Grilled Chicken Wings with West African BBQ Sauce
You can make this recipe with homemade or purchased boiled peanuts. If you’re going to be making your own, omit the bacon from that recipe. If you’re buying them from your favorite road stand, make sure they’re vegetarian. The slab bacon or other animal fat sometimes used in cooking them can go rancid, ruining the miso.
Shell the boiled peanuts. Weigh out 1¼ pounds shelled peanuts and snack on any extra.
Working in batches if necessary, transfer the peanuts to a food processor and process until smooth, about 1½ minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
Combine the koji and 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon of the finishing salt in a glass bowl and gently massage together with your fingertips until well mixed. Fold the mixture into the peanuts and stir to combine completely. If the mixture is too dry and crumbly, add bottled water 1 tablespoon at a time until the mixture is pasty and releases a small amount of clear liquid when pressed.
Place the mixture in the freezer bag, pushing it all the way down to the bottom to eliminate as much air as possible. Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of finishing salt over the top of the mixture and fold the top of the bag over it, but don’t seal the bag. Place the bag in the stoneware crock and put at least 2 pounds of weight on top (a 1-quart canning jar filled with water works well). Put the crock in a cool, dark area where the temperature won’t exceed 75°F and let ferment for about 6 months. Taste the miso to see if it’s ready; it should taste quite salty, a little sweet, and pleasantly savory, like a nice aged cheese.
Remove the clear liquid that has formed on top of the miso. (There will be only about 2 tablespoons, but you can refrigerate it for up to 6 months to use as a salty seasoning, if you like.)
Working in two batches, transfer the miso to a food processor and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer the miso to a nonreactive container with a lid. Place a piece of wax paper directly on top of the miso to help prevent a skin from forming, then place the lid on the container and refrigerate. Tightly covered, the miso will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Check the wax paper occasionally and replace it if it has absorbed some of the liquid and become soggy.
Makes 1 pint
1 pound ramps, cleaned, dried, and hairy root ends removed
1½ teaspoons coarse finishing salt, preferably J.Q. Dickinson’s (see Resources)
Equipment
Disposable nitrile gloves
Use In:
These funky fermented ramps are the base for the Creamed Ramps. Or roughly chop them and fold into the Potato and Ramp Puree, or try them as an unexpected addition to succotash.
Roughly chop the ramp bulbs and leaves. Combine with the salt in a nonreactive container and toss well. Transfer the mixture to a clean 1-pint canning jar, packing it in as tightly as possible. Put a nitrile glove over the mouth of the jar (or use plastic wrap) and secure it with a rubber band.
Let the ramps sit in a cool, dark place for at least 7 days to ferment. As the ramps ferment, the glove will inflate with the released gases. If after 4 days the ramps aren’t completely submerged in the liquid they have released, put on nitrile gloves and push them down into the liquid. Replace the original glove on the top of the jar. When properly fermented, the ramps will be completely submerged in their own liquid and have a pleasantly sour smell.
Transfer the ramp sauerkraut to a clean 1-pint canning jar. Wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the sauerkraut will keep for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
Makes 4 quarts
3 medium heads green cabbage (about 2 pounds each), with dark green outer leaves
3 tablespoons kosher salt
Equipment
1-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
Use in:
There is almost always a crock of this straightforward, classic ferment going at my house. I never want to run out.
Wash and dry the cabbage. Pull off the outer leaves. Stack the leaves a few at a time, roll them into cylinders, cut them into large ribbons, and transfer to a very large bowl. Cut the heads of cabbage into quarters and remove the cores. Slice the quarters crosswise into strips about ¼ inch wide and transfer to the bowl.
Add the salt to the cabbage and toss to coat thoroughly. Transfer the mixture to the pickling crock, pressing down to get all the cabbage in. Weight the cabbage down with an inverted plate to help keep it submerged in the liquid that will be released. Cover the crock with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth, securing it with butcher’s twine. Then cover the crock with a large plate.
Put the cabbage in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment until pleasantly sour, about 2 weeks. Twice a week, remove the plate and mesh (or cheesecloth) and skim the top of the cabbage to remove any white scum, then replace the mesh and plate.
Drain the pickled cabbage, reserving the brine. Divide the cabbage among four clean 1-quart canning jars and add enough of the brine to fill them. Discard any extra brine. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the cabbage will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes 2 cups
2½ pounds purple-top turnips, peeled and chopped
1¾ teaspoons kosher salt
Equipment
Juice extractor
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
use in:
Fermented juices are part of my never-ending quest to layer the flavors of my favorite vegetables all in one dish. Turnip juice was one of the first I made, but the technique works with almost any vegetable. A little juice added to a pan of braising vegetables gives them some depth and an acidic kick.
Run the turnips through the juicer. Discard the pulp and transfer 2 cups of the juice to a clean 1-quart canning jar (discard any extra juice). Add the salt and stir until completely dissolved. Cover the jar with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth and secure with butcher’s twine.
Put the jar in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let ferment until pleasantly sour, about 1 week. Remove the mesh (or cheesecloth), wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the turnip ferment will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes 2 quarts
10 ears sweet corn, husks and silks removed
8 cups water
⅓ cup pickling salt (see Note)
Equipment
1-gallon stoneware pickling crock
Nylon mesh (see here) or cheesecloth
goes well with:
Beeliner Snapper with Fried Peppers
Use In:
Sour corn could always be found in one of those mysterious crocks that sat in the dark and musky basement at my grandma’s house. I would look at it and think, “What on earth could be in there that I’d want to eat?” But when the contents of that crock hit the frying pan, I was the most eager one there.
These sour little corn kernels can be a part of many meals throughout the year. They’re essentially a sauerkraut of corn, which came into Southern cuisine by way of German immigrants to the Appalachian Mountains. They used what they had on hand—in this case, corn—to get the sour flavor that reminded them of the food they had left across the ocean.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the corn and return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the corn just starts to soften, about 10 minutes. Transfer the corn to a rimmed baking sheet and cool to room temperature.
While the corn is cooling, combine the water and pickling salt in a bowl, stirring to completely dissolve the salt.
Cut the corn kernels off the cobs and put them in the crock, discarding the cobs. Pour the brine over the kernels and cover the crock with nylon mesh or a double layer of cheesecloth, securing it with butcher’s twine. Cover the crock with a large plate.
Put the corn in a cool area with a maximum temperature of 75°F and let it ferment until pleasantly sour, about 1 week. Twice during the week, remove the plate and mesh (or cheesecloth) and skim the top of the corn to remove any white scum, then replace the mesh and plate.
Drain the sour corn, reserving the brine. Divide the corn between two clean 1-quart canning jars and add enough brine to fill them. Discard any extra brine. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the corn will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator.
NOTE: Pickling salt is much finer than kosher salt and sea salt and is used because no heat is needed for it to dissolve quickly in water.
Makes 3 pints
3 cups apple cider vinegar
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
¾ teaspoon celery seeds
¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
½ medium sweet onion (about 3 ounces), cut into small dice
1 red bell pepper (about 6 ounces), cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
½ hot banana pepper, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ small head green cabbage (about 12 ounces), outer leaves removed, cored and finely chopped
1½ cups small dice Pickled Green Tomatoes
1 cup Sour Corn, drained
¼ cup yellow mustard
goes well with:
Hominy and Pokeweed Griddle Cakes
Adding sour corn to a fairly traditional chowchow takes this familiar condiment in a different, delicious direction.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Combine the vinegar, brown sugar, and salt in a medium nonreactive pot and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar and salt. Reduce the heat to medium-high and briskly simmer the mixture until reduced by half, about 20 minutes.
Add the turmeric, mustard seeds, celery seeds, and red pepper flakes and stir well. Add the onion, bell pepper, banana pepper, cabbage, and green tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, about 15 minutes. Fold in the sour corn and mustard, remove the pot from the heat, and cool completely.
Divide the chowchow among the canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings. Refrigerate for at least 3 days to develop the flavors before eating. Tightly sealed, the chowchow will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Note: For longer storage, the chowchow can be processed according to the instructions for boiling-water (see here). Process for 15 minutes. Properly sealed, the jars will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes about 1½ quarts
5 pounds small, tart, underripe scuppernong grapes
½ Campden tablet (see Note and Resources), crushed and dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
The best grapes for making verjus are the tart, underripe ones you find early in the season. They are considerably firmer than their ripe counterparts. The result is an almost tropical flavored liquid that can be used for seasoning just the way you would use lemon juice.
Note: Campden tablets, which are metabisulfites, either sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite, are commonly used as a preservative in the winemaking process.
Working in batches, place the grapes in a blender and blend on low to extract as much juice as possible without breaking up the seeds or pureeing the skins. Transfer to a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl and press the grape mash to extract as much juice as possible. Discard the skins and seeds.
Line a fine-mesh sieve with three layers of cheesecloth and strain the juice into a nonreactive container. Stir the dissolved Campden tablet into the juice, cover, and leave at room temperature for 12 hours. The juice will separate into a clear liquid and a layer of sediment on the bottom.
Carefully ladle the clear verjus into one clean 1-quart canning jar and one clean 1-pint jar, making sure not to disturb the layer of sediment at the bottom of the container. Wipe the rims and threads, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the verjus will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 3 quarts
3 pounds greasy beans or cut-short, half-runner, or Turkey Craw beans, washed, strings removed, and broken into pieces about 1½ inches long
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
3 quarts water
Equipment
Pressure canner
goes well with:
Strip Steak with Worcestershire
Chicken Breasts with Black Pepper and Peanut Butter Gravy
Picking, stringing, washing, and canning my family’s haul of greasy beans each summer is one of my strongest food memories. Greasy beans are a type of pole bean so named because of their smooth, shiny pods. Pole beans epitomize the food heritage of the South, from the effort to develop and preserve special bean varieties to the necessity of putting up food. My pantry is empty if it doesn’t hold at least a few jars.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Divide the beans among the sterilized jars and sprinkle ½ teaspoon of the salt over each of them.
Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Pour boiling water into each jar, leaving a 1-inch headspace; you won’t use all the water. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and finger-tighten the rings.
Set up the pressure canner according to the manufacturer’s directions. At altitudes of 2,000 feet or less, process the jars at 11 pounds of pressure for 25 minutes. At above 2,000 feet, consult the canner manual for guidelines for high-altitude processing pressure and time.
When the processing is complete, turn off the heat and transfer the canner to one of the stove’s turned-off burners. Let the pressure completely dissipate on its own. The pressure has dissipated only when the pressure plug has dropped and no steam is released when the pressure regulator is lifted. Wait 10 minutes after the pressure dissipates before carefully opening the canner.
Carefully remove the jars from the canner and set them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop) to cool to room temperature.
It is important that the jars seal properly and a vacuum forms (see here). If any jars did not seal, store them in the refrigerator. Properly sealed, the beans will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 2 quarts plus 1 pint
5 pounds heirloom Roma (plum) tomatoes
½ cup tomato juice or water
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons Hot Sauce or Red Clay Original Hot Sauce (see Resources)
There are 101 uses for these tomatoes, from Lowcountry Fish-Head Stew to a smoky, beef fat–infused condiment (see Preserved Tomato Condiment). They’re one of the most versatile ingredients you can stock your pantry with.
Sterilize two 1-quart canning jars and one 1-pint canning jar, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Working in batches, lightly score the skin on the bottom of each tomato with an X and submerge the tomatoes in the boiling water for 20 seconds. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool; do not leave them in the ice bath for longer than 5 minutes. Drain. Peel the tomatoes and place in a large nonreactive pot.
Add the tomato juice, lemon juice, salt, and hot sauce to the tomatoes, cover, and heat over medium-low heat, gently stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes register an internal temperature of 180°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 20 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, divide the tomatoes among the jars and then ladle the liquid into the jars, leaving a ½-inch headspace. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and finger-tighten the rings.
Process the jars in a boiling-water bath for 40 minutes according to the canning instructions (see here). It is important that the jars seal properly and a vacuum forms. If any jars did not seal, store them in the refrigerator. Properly sealed, the tomatoes will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months; refrigerate after opening.
Makes 4 pints
4 pounds heirloom tomatoes
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
¼ cup minced shallots
1½ teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 cinnamon stick
½ star anise pod
6 cups diced peeled rhubarb (about 2 pounds stalks)
1½ teaspoons tomato vinegar (see Resources)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
goes well with:
Cured Duck Breasts with Rice Porridge
Serve this condiment alongside roasted or grilled poultry, but do try it as a foil to some good sharp cheese too.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Working in batches, lightly score the skin on the bottom of each tomato with an X and submerge the tomatoes in the boiling water for 20 seconds. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool; do not leave them in the ice bath for longer than 5 minutes. Drain. Peel, halve, and seed the tomatoes and cut them into ¼-inch dice.
Combine the wine, wine vinegar, sugar, shallots, ginger, cinnamon stick, and star anise in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the liquid has reduced by one-third, about 5 minutes.
Increase the heat to high, gently stir in the tomatoes and rhubarb, and bring the mixture back to a boil. Continue to cook for 30 seconds, then remove from the heat. Transfer the conserve to a glass or nonreactive container and cool to room temperature, then stir in the tomato vinegar and salt.
Divide the conserve among four clean 1-pint canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the conserve will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes about 1½ pints
3 pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup Worcestershire sauce, preferably Bourbon Barrel (seeResources)
2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
goes well with:
Use In:
Rice-and-Shrimp Croquettes with Tomato Chili Sauce
Just as with using bruised fruit to make a fruit butter, this tomato jam is a good way to use tomatoes that aren’t perfect looking. You can get them for a great price, and cooking them down with all these sweet and sour flavors gives you an incredible result. Try the jam with a burger and fries for a change of pace.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Working in batches, lightly score the skin on the bottom of each tomato with an X and submerge the tomatoes in the boiling water for 20 seconds. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool; do not leave them in there for longer than 5 minutes. Drain the tomatoes, then peel, halve, seed, and chop them.
Combine the vinegar and brown sugar in a large nonreactive saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, and stir to be sure the sugar has completely dissolved. Boil until reduced by half, about 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and Worcestershire sauce and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, until the mixture is a dark color and very thick, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Transfer the jam to a cutting board and finely chop it. Transfer to a bowl and add the olive oil, salt, and cardamom. Stir to combine well.
Transfer the jam to two clean 1-pint canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the jam will keep for up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
Makes 1 pint
1 pound fruit of your choice, such as strawberries, washed, hulled, and cut into small dice, or blueberries, washed and dried (for peach preserves, see box)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup sorghum syrup, preferably Muddy Pond (see Resources)
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Equipment
Candy thermometer
goes well with:
Use In:
Most of my favorite fruits have pretty short seasons, and so I never really get my fill. Putting them up in a preserve with the rich flavor of sorghum syrup is my preferred way to enjoy them longer.
Note: You’ll need to start this recipe a day ahead of time to macerate the fruit.
Combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive container and stir to mix well. Cover and macerate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
Transfer the macerated fruit mixture to a small nonreactive saucepan. Place the saucepan over low heat, attach a candy thermometer to the side, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is very thick and a rich, deep color and registers 220°F on the candy thermometer, about 1 hour. Remove from the stove and cool slightly.
Meanwhile, sterilize a 1-pint canning jar, along with its ring and lid (see here), and put it on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
Ladle the hot fruit preserves into the sterilized jar, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Cool to room temperature, then transfer the jar to the refrigerator. Tightly sealed, the preserves will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
To make peach preserves, start with 2½ pounds large ripe peaches. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Make an ice bath with equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. Working in batches, lightly score the skin on the bottom of each peach with an X and submerge the peaches in the boiling water for 10 seconds. Remove and submerge them in the ice bath to cool them and stop the cooking; do not leave them in the ice bath for longer than 5 minutes. Peel the peaches, cut the flesh away from the pits, and roughly chop. Proceed as directed.
Makes about 1 pint
1 large ripe watermelon (about 20 pounds)
goes well with:
Use In:
Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad
After tasting the famous Bradford watermelon (see Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad), I started experimenting with methods for making watermelon molasses, a by-product of (ultimately unsuccessful) nineteenth-century attempts to make table sugar from watermelons. After hundreds of pounds of watermelons, I came up with this recipe.
A word to the wise: This recipe is messy and requires quite an investment of time, but the result is worth it.
Cut the watermelon into manageable chunks and remove the rind, then remove any seeds (don’t worry about keeping the fruit intact). Working in batches, put the watermelon in a food processor and pulse several times to extract as much liquid as you can without breaking the melon up completely.
Drain the watermelon in a large fine-mesh sieve set over a large stainless steel pot or other container, pressing lightly on the pulp. You should have about 5½ quarts juice.
Put the watermelon juice in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, frequently skimming off any foam that forms on the surface. Keep the juice at a gentle simmer, adjusting the heat accordingly and stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until it has reduced by about two-thirds. Transfer the juice to a medium saucepan and continue to gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until it has reduced to about 2 cups. (Transferring it to a smaller clean saucepan at this point helps ensure that the molasses won’t scorch; if you notice any browning around the edges of the saucepan, immediately transfer the molasses to another saucepan to prevent any burnt flavors.) The whole process will take 4 to 6 hours. When it’s done, the watermelon molasses should be a deep crimson color and have the consistency of real maple syrup. Remove from the stove and cool for 30 minutes.
Set a clean 1-pint canning jar on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop). Transfer the watermelon molasses to the jar, wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the watermelon molasses will keep for up to 1 year in the refrigerator.
Makes about 1 pint
4 pounds muscadine grapes
Use grape molasses to glaze meat on the grill.
Working in batches, place the grapes in a blender and blend on low speed to extract the juice without breaking up the seeds or pureeing the skins. Transfer to a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl and press on the grape mash to extract as much juice as possible. Discard the skins and seeds.
Transfer the juice to a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and slowly reduce it over low heat, skimming off any foam and stirring it occasionally, until it is a deep red color and as thick as maple syrup, 1½ to 2 hours. If the sides of the pan start to brown, transfer the juice to a clean saucepan and continue to reduce. Let cool for 30 minutes.
Set a clean 1-pint canning jar on a dish towel or a wire rack. Transfer the molasses to the jar, wipe the rim and threads clean, place the lid and ring on the jar, and tighten the ring. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the molasses will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 2 pints
2½ pounds rhubarb, trimmed and chopped
½ cup water
1⅔ cups sugar
1 teaspoon ground sumac (see Resources)
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Use this method to preserve any fruit.
Combine the rhubarb and water in a large nonreactive pot, cover, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is very soft, about 1½ hours.
Add the sugar and spices, cover, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until very thick, about 2 hours. Remove from the heat, uncover, and cool.
Transfer the rhubarb butter to a blender and blend on high until completely smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer the rhubarb butter to two clean 1-pint canning jars. Wipe the rims and threads clean, place the lids and rings on the jars, and tighten the rings, then refrigerate. Tightly sealed, the rhubarb butter will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.
Makes 3 cups
Rice
½ cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice (see Resources)
1 cup water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Boudin
10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
1½ cups Chicken Stock
2 tablespoons Rendered Fresh Chicken Fat
4 ounces chicken livers, drained, rinsed, and cut into small dice
¼ cup fine dice sweet onion
¼ cup fine dice celery
½ jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced
1 teaspoon minced garlic
¼ cup chopped scallions
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (see Resources)
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
⅛ teaspoon TCM (see box, How to Make Peach Preserves, and Resources)
⅛ teaspoon chili powder
1 tablespoon Hot Sauce or Red Clay Original Hot Sauce (see Resources)
Equipment
Meat grinder
This boudin is a riff on the Cajun classic, made with chicken instead of pork. Eat boudin by itself on crackers, or stuff it into a casing, grill, and serve with some spicy mustard or hot sauce. Any boudin left over from dinner can be shaped into patties and fried up like breakfast sausage the next morning. It also makes an excellent stuffing for grilled quail.
For the rice: Combine the rice, water, and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer the rice until it is soft and all the water has been absorbed, about 12 minutes. Transfer the rice to a rimmed baking sheet, spread it out, and cool to room temperature, then transfer 1½ cups of the rice to a large bowl (refrigerate any extra rice for another use).
For the boudin: Combine the chicken breasts and stock in a saucepan, cover, and simmer over medium heat until the chicken is just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a small bowl and refrigerate until completely cold. Reserve the stock in the saucepan.
Heat the chicken fat in a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the chicken livers, onion, celery, jalapeño, garlic, scallions, and parsley and cook, stirring frequently, until the livers are cooked through and the vegetables are translucent, about 5 minutes. Spread the mixture out on a plate and refrigerate until cold.
Reheat the reserved chicken stock over low heat.
Grind the chicken breast and liver mixture together through the large die of the meat grinder and add it to the rice. Add the salt, Aleppo pepper, black pepper, white pepper, TCM, chili powder, and hot sauce and mix well. Slowly add about ¼ cup of the warm stock, mixing in just enough stock to give the boudin a stuffing-like consistency.
Cool the boudin to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve. Tightly covered, the sausage will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
Makes two 1½-pound sausages
¼ cup plus 1½ teaspoons nonfat dry milk powder
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1¼ teaspoons phosphate (see Resources)
1¾ teaspoons Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Paprika (see Resources)
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon Cure #2 (see Resources)
1 teaspoon monosodium glutamate (see Resources)
1¼ teaspoons onion powder
1¼ teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon mustard powder
⅛ teaspoon sodium erythorbate (see Resources)
Scant ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground mace
1½ pounds lean beef
1 pound pork shoulder
1¾ ounces bacon, preferably Benton’s (see Resources)
⅓ cup plus 2 teaspoons ice water
2 summer sausage casings (2.9 by 20 inches: see Resources), soaked in lukewarm water for 30 minutes
Equipment
Meat grinder
Stand mixer with sausage stuffer attachment
I’m not going to sugarcoat this: It takes a lot of effort to make bologna. It takes a lot of practice, too, and you’re probably going to mess up the first few, but saying that you make your own bologna can be an incredible source of pride. Once you get it right, you’ll never want to buy bologna again.
Combine the milk powder, salt, phosphate, paprika, Cure #2, monosodium glutamate, onion powder, white pepper, mustard powder, sodium erythorbate, nutmeg, and mace in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Set aside.
Grind the beef, pork, and bacon separately through the large die of the meat grinder into a bowl. Then combine the meats and run them through the grinder again into another bowl. Cover and refrigerate while you clean the grinder of any sinew and wash it under cold water.
Grind the meat mixture once more through the large die. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the spice mixture and mix on low speed until combined, about 1 minute. With the mixer running, slowly add the ice water to form a smooth paste. Scraping down the sides as needed, mix the bologna until the friction from mixing causes the temperature of the meat mixture to rise and it registers 57°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 1 minute.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Fill a 12-by-20-by-3-inch roasting pan with enough water to completely submerge the bologna and place the pan in the oven.
Divide the meat mixture in half. Using the sausage stuffer attachment, stuff half the meat mixture into each of the casings, then remove as much air as possible and tie off the ends with a double knot of butcher’s twine.
Put the bologna in the roasting pan, making sure it is completely submerged in the water; add more hot water if needed. Cook the bologna for about 1 hour, until it registers an internal temperature of 165°F on an instant-read thermometer.
Just before the bologna has finished cooking, make an ice bath with equal parts water and ice in a bowl large enough to hold both sausages. Submerge the cooked bologna in the ice bath until completely cold.
Remove the bologna from the ice bath, pat dry, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate until cold before serving. The bologna can be sliced and served as soon as it is cold, but it is better after being refrigerated overnight. Uncut in the casings or tightly wrapped after cutting, the bologna will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
Makes two 1½-pound sausages
½ cup nonfat dry milk powder
1 tablespoon plus 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon corn syrup solids (see Resources)
2¾ teaspoons dextrose (see Resources)
2 teaspoons Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Paprika (see Resources)
1¾ teaspoons phosphate (see Resources)
1½ teaspoons mustard seeds, crushed
1¼ teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
¾ teaspoon TCM (see box and Resources)
½ teaspoon ascorbic acid (see Resources)
¼ teaspoon celery seeds
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
2½ pounds boneless lean venison, very cold
1 pound pork fat, cut into ½-inch pieces, very cold
Scant ½ teaspoon minced garlic
2 summer sausage casings (2.9 by 20 inches: see Resources), soaked in lukewarm water for 30 minutes
Equipment
Meat grinder
Stand mixer with sausage stuffer attachment
Smoker
Venison sausage is an homage to my childhood, when the arrival of whitetail season each year always meant this smoky sausage wasn’t far off.
Combine the milk powder, salt, corn syrup solids, dextrose, paprika, phosphate, mustard seeds, white pepper, TCM, ascorbic acid, celery seeds, coriander, and nutmeg in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Set aside.
Combine the venison and pork fat and run the mixture through the large die of the meat grinder into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate while you clean the grinder of any sinew and wash it in cold water.
Grind the meat mixture once more through the large die. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the spice mixture and mix on low speed until combined, about 1 minute. With the mixer running, add the garlic and combine. Transfer the meat mixture to a container, cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly against the mixture, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
About 30 minutes before you’re ready to cook the sausage, preheat the oven to 300°F. Fill a 12-by-20-by-3-inch roasting pan with enough hot water to completely submerge the sausages and place the pan in the oven.
Divide the meat mixture in half. Using the sausage stuffer attachment, stuff half the mixture into each of the casings, then remove as much air as possible and tie off the ends with a double knot of butcher’s twine.
Put the sausages in the roasting pan, making sure they are completely submerged in the water; add additional hot water if needed. Cook them for about 1 hour, until they register an internal temperature of 165°F on an instant-read thermometer.
Just before the sausages have finished cooking, make an ice bath with equal parts water and ice in a bowl large enough to hold both of them. Submerge the cooked sausages in the ice bath until completely cold. Drain, pat them dry, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 4 hours.
Prepare the smoker for cold smoking with hardwood charcoal and hickory (see Smoking); maintain a temperature of between 75°F and 90°F.
Smoke the sausages for 4 hours. Remove the sausages from the smoker, transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, and cool to room temperature; wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours before slicing. Uncut in the casing or tightly wrapped after cutting, the summer sausage will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
Makes 3 pickled pig’s feet
Pig’s Feet
Kosher salt
3 pig’s feet (about 1 pound each), split lengthwise in half and rinsed under cold running water
1 fresh bay leaf
3 thyme sprigs
Pickling Liquid
4 cups distilled white vinegar
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Black Peppercorns (see Resources)
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
1½ teaspoons Bourbon Barrel Bourbon Smoked Paprika (see Resources)
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 fresh bay leaves
½ sweet onion (about 3 ounces), thinly sliced
Let’s face it: You may feel that eating one of those pickled pig’s feet from a jar perched on the counter of an out-there convenience store seems like a high-risk venture. But make them yourself with high-quality ingredients, and the risk becomes reward. I love to finely dice the meat and fold it into a pot of beans or slow-cooked greens.
Sterilize three 1-quart canning jars, along with their rings and lids (see here), and put them on a clean dish towel or a wire rack (not directly on the countertop).
For the pig’s feet: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pig’s feet, bay leaf, and thyme, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the pig’s feet are tender and offer no resistance when pierced with a knife in the meatiest part of the foot, about 2 hours. Drain the feet in a colander and rinse under cool running water to remove any fat and impurities. Discard the bay leaf and thyme.
While the feet are still slightly warm, use your hands to remove any bones that pull away easily. Get as many as you can, but do not cut into the feet with a knife, because you want to maintain their shape. Transfer the feet to the canning jars, putting 2 halves in each jar.
For the pickling liquid: Combine all the ingredients in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar and salt. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 minutes to develop the flavors.
Divide the hot pickling liquid among the jars, leaving a ½-inch headspace. Wipe the rims and threads clean and cool to room temperature.
Place the lids and rings on the jars, tighten the rings, and refrigerate for 1 week to allow the pig’s feet to cure before serving. Tightly sealed, the pig’s feet will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
Makes one 12-ounce piece
8 ounces blue crab roe, carefully picked over for shells and cartilage
12 large egg yolks
1 summer sausage casing (2.9 by 20 inches; see Resources)
4 cups kosher salt, plus more as needed
Use In:
Grilled Oysters with Green Garlic Butter
Crab roe bottarga lets you push the fresh blue crab roe season out a little longer. This recipe came about because I wanted to grate a little cured egg yolk over a she-crab soup to get an added layer of richness. Then I realized I could combine the egg yolk with the sweet crab roe and preserve that flavor for use throughout the year, until the next roe season came around.
Note: Blue crab roe is available in some seafood markets and from online sources (including Charleston Seafood; see Resources).
Pictured on the following page
Combine the roe and egg yolks in a food processor and process until completely combined, about 1 minute.
Using a funnel, slowly pour the roe mixture into the casing. Lightly tap the side of the casing to remove air bubbles. Cut off any excess casing about 3 inches above the mixture and tie the end off tightly with a double knot of butcher’s twine.
Pour 2 cups of the salt into the bottom of an 8-by-6-by-4-inch glass loaf pan or other nonreactive container. Add the bottarga and cover with the remaining 2 cups salt. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 3 days.
Remove the bottarga from the salt and wipe away any salt from its surface. Attach a length of butcher’s twine to the bottarga just below the knot at the top of the casing and hang the bottarga in the refrigerator, making sure it hangs freely and doesn’t touch anything; it’s important to have good air circulation around it. Place a bowl filled with kosher salt underneath the bottarga to catch any drippings and absorb odors. Let the bottarga hang for 7 to 10 days, making sure the temperature stays below 40°F. The bottarga will lose moisture and the texture will become firmer.
Transfer the bottarga to a container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 month.
Makes 12 dried oysters
1¼ cups water
1 tablespoon kosher salt
12 fresh oysters
Equipment
Dehydrator
Use In:
Potlikker-Steamed Sea Bass with Corn Dodgers
Cooked greens (see How to Cook a Pot of Greens)
Dried oysters are traditionally used in West African meat dishes such as lamb stew. They can be found everywhere in the market stalls of Dakar, sold alongside a huge variety of salted and dried seafood from the coastal waters, like sea snails, conch, catfish, shrimp, and clams. This simple technique for drying gives the oyster an umami blast along with the deep, oceanic flavor of a roasted oyster. Add them to flavor any sort of potlikker or broth or grate them over a dish for an intense, in-your-face seafood taste.
Pictured on the preceding page
Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat, then remove it from the stove, add the salt, and stir until completely dissolved. Pour the brine into a nonreactive heatproof container large enough to hold the oysters and cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until completely cold.
When the brine is cold, shuck the oysters (discard the liquor and shells). Add the oysters to the cold brine, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Transfer the oysters to the dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 145°F until they are completely dried out and have turned a deep brown color, about 12 hours. Transfer to an airtight container, cover, and store in a cool, dry place for up to 1 month.
Makes 12 cured yolks
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
12 large eggs yolks
Curing egg yolks is a simple way to use up an abundance of farm-fresh eggs and put a savory, rich flavor into your pantry. Grate them over anything from salads and egg dishes to creamy grits.
Mix the salt and sugar together in a bowl. Spread half the mixture in the bottom of a 9-by-12-inch glass baking dish. Make 12 equal indentations in the mixture to hold the yolks. Carefully place a yolk in each indentation and then carefully cover them with the remaining salt-sugar mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 7 days.
After 7 days, brush as much of the salt mixture off the yolks as possible. Lay a 26-by-8-inch double layer of cheesecloth out on a clean work surface. Arrange the yolks on it in a line, leaving space between them. Roll up the yolks in the cheesecloth. Using butcher’s twine, knot the cheesecloth between the yolks as if you were tying off sausage links and knot the ends.
Tie a length of butcher’s twine to one end of the roll and hang it in your pantry or another cool, enclosed area for 1 week.
After 1 week, remove the yolks from the cheesecloth and place them in an airtight container between layers of parchment paper. Cover tightly and store at room temperature or in a cool, dry place for up to 2 months.