INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Z

A

Academy of Arts: 97

Accommodations: See Sleeping

Addresses, locating: 16

Admiralsbrücke: 60

Admiralspalast Theater: 304

Air-conditioning, in hotel rooms: 260, 395

Airfares (airlines): 4, 5, 309, 433–434

Air Ministry, former: 36, 54, 224, 233–234

Airports: 309–311

Akademie der Künste: 97

Akhenaton: 126

Alexanderplatz: 10, 65–66, 175–176; tourist information, 13

Al fresco summer fun: 305–306

Alltag in der DDR: 42, 49–50, 202

Alte Nationalgalerie: 30, 40, 120–121, 129–138

Alte Potsdamer Strasse: 240–241

Alter Markt (Potsdam): 317, 326–327

Altes (Old) Museum: 40, 121, 140

Altes Rathaus (Potsdam): 326

Am Kupfergraben: 142

Ampelmann: 170, 293, 297

Ampelmännchen: 170–171

Anne Frank Center: 186

Antikmarkt Ostbahnhof: 295

Apartment rentals: 396–398; Berlin, 273

Apps: 6; map, 390, 428–429; at sights, 391–392

Aquariums: 79, 170

Arkonaplatz: 294

Art galleries: 306

Art museums: Academy of Arts, 97; Altes (Old) Museum, 40, 121, 140; Berlinische Galerie, 56–57; Bode Museum, 40, 121, 138–139; Boros Collection, 47–48; Bröhan Museum, 84–85; Liebermann-Villa (Wannsee), 330; Museum Barberini (Potsdam), 327; Museum Berggruen, 84; Museum of Decorative Arts, 31, 75, 254–257; Neues Museum, 30, 39–40, 123–129; New National Gallery, 258; Old National Gallery, 30, 40, 120–121, 129–138; Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection, 83–84. See also Gemäldegalerie; Pergamon Museum

Art Nouveau (Jugendstil): 45, 84, 184, 254

Assyrian art, at Pergamon Museum: 147–149

ATMs: 384–386

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 6, 28, 436

Auguststrasse: 188, 189; art galleries, 306; eating, 284–286; sleeping, 268

Autobahn: overview, 432–433

B

Babelsberg: 330

Babylonian art, at Pergamon Museum: 143–146

Ballhaus Berlin: 305, 307

Ballooning: 231

Banks (banking): before you go, 5–6. See also Money

Bar Jeder Vernunft: 304

Bassy Club: 305

Bayerischer Platz: 81

Beach bars: 306

Bebelplatz: 111–112

Beer: 25, 280, 409–410; International Beer Festival, 438. See also Beer gardens/halls; Pubs

Beer gardens/halls: Berlin, 276–278, 280, 291, 306; Wittenberg, 362

Behrenstrasse: 97, 108–109, 111

Beisheim Center: 240

Bellevue Palace: 23

Berggruen Museum: 84

Bergmannkiez: 61–62, 297; eating, 289

Berlin Airlift: 43, 63, 237

Berlinale: 241, 438

Berlin Cathedral: 40–41, 117–118, 303

Berlin City Hall: 173

Berliner Festspiele: 304

Berliner Luft: 115

Berliner Wasserbetriebe: 113

Berlin Green Head: 128–129

Berlin Hauptbahnhof: See Hauptbahnhof

Berlin House of Representatives: 238

Berlinische Galerie: 56–57

Berlin Museum of Decorative Arts: 31, 75, 254–257

Berlin Natural History Museum: 51

Berlin Open Air Festival: 438

Berlin Philharmonic: 244–245, 258, 293, 301

Berlin State Opera: 112, 302

Berlin Underworlds Association: 25

Berlin Wall: 48, 167, 367; top sights, 42; the basics, 212–213; Bernauer Strasse, 218–220, 222–223; bike tours, 27; buying “authentic” chunk of, 293; Checkpoint Charlie, 42, 51–54, 225–229; Documentation Center, 218–219; East Side Gallery, 31, 42, 67–68; fall of, 177, 367; fragments, 42, 54, 72, 232, 237; guided tours, 26; Mauerpark, 48–49, 209, 223; Niederkirchnerstrasse, 42, 232, 237; Stresemannstrasse, 238–239; Visitors Center, 213–214; The Wall: The Asisi Panorama, 231; Zimmerstrasse, 229, 231–232. See also Berlin Wall Memorial

Berlin Wall Memorial: 9, 42, 48, 210–223; background, 211–212; maps, 211, 215; orientation, 30, 210–211; the tour, 213–223

Berlin Wall Victims Memorial: 91, 94

Berlin Zoological Garden: 23, 79; eating, 291

Bernauer Strasse: 48, 208–209, 214; Berlin Wall, 218–220, 222–223

Beverages: 408–410. See also Beer

Biedermeier style: 136

Biking (bikes): Berlin, 21–22, 260; tours, 22, 27; on board trains, 425; Potsdam, 318–319; Wittenberg, 361

Bikini Berlin: 78, 269, 299

Bikinihaus: 78, 269, 299

Bismarck, Otto von: 1, 71, 75, 77, 137, 161, 371; biographical sketch, 162

Black Box Cold War: 231

Bleibtreustrasse: eating, 290–291

Boat travel and cruises: Berlin, 27, 171, 173; Elbe River, 361; Warnemünde, 314

Bode Museum: 40, 121, 138–139

Bonanza Coffee Heroes: 208, 283

Bonbonmacherei: 190

Book burning memorial at Bebelplatz: 112

Books, recommended: 439–440

Bookstores: 293

Bornstedt Royal Estate (Potsdam): 326

Boros Collection: 47–48

Boules: 60, 305

Boxhagener Platz: 67, 295

Brandenburgerie: 296

Brandenburger Tor: 103–105

Brandenburg Gate: 9, 30, 35, 94–95

Breakfast: overview, 401

Brewer’s Berlin Tours: 25, 320

British Embassy: 100

Bröhan Museum: 84–85

Budgeting: 4

Buses: 425–426; Berlin, 16–17, 20–21, 314; map, 18–19; tickets, 17–20; tours, 22–24; map, 418–419; Potsdam, 318, 319; Sachsenhausen, 331; Wittenberg, 347

Business hours: 383

C

Cabaret: 304

Cabs: See Taxis

Café Morgenrot: 204, 283

Café Sibylle: 179

Caravaggio: 253–254

Car insurance: 427–428

Car leasing: 428

Carnival of Cultures: 438

Car rentals: 426–427

Car travel: 428–433; distances and time, 430–431; road signs, 429

Castle Church (Wittenberg): 348–350

Cecilienhof Palace (Potsdam): 43, 327–329

Cell phones: 410–415

Central Berlin (historic core): 8–9; department stores, 298–299; eating, 275–279; maps, 32–33, 276–277; sights, 28–45. See also Museum Island; Unter den Linden

Central Post Office: 190

Chamäleon: 304

Chancellery: 23, 34

“Chapel of Reconciliation” (Berlin Wall): 220–221

Charlemagne: 158–159, 364–365

Charlottenburg Palace: 10, 31, 81–85; map, 83

Checkpoint Charlie: 42, 51–54, 225–229

Chinese House (Potsdam): 325

Chocolate: 110, 297–298

Churches and cathedrals: concerts, 302–303; architecture, 370; Berlin Cathedral, 40–41, 117–118, 303; Castle Church (Wittenberg), 348–350; French Cathedral, 110, 303; German Cathedral, 110; Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, 23, 31, 76, 78, 303; Marien Church, 173–174, 302; Nikolaikirche (Berlin), 45, 302–303; Nikolaikirche (Potsdam), 326; St. Hedwig’s Cathedral, 111–112, 303; St. Mary Town Church (Wittenberg), 351–355; Sophienkirche, 188; Zionskirche, 207

Church of All Saints (Wittenberg): See Castle Church

City West: 10, 75–81; art galleries, 306; eating, 289–291; history of, 77; map, 270–271; market, 295; shopping, 299; sleeping, 269–272; transportation, 312

Clärchens Ballhaus: 189, 285, 303, 305, 306–307

Classical music: Berlin, 301–303; Wittenberg, 348. See also Berlin Philharmonic

Climate: 4, 442

Clothing boutiques: 296–297

Clothing sizes: 441

Cold War: 224–232, 367, 376–378; top sights, 42–43, 51–54; books about, 439; Everyday Life in the DDR, 42, 49–50, 202; German History Museum, 166–167; guided tours, 24–25; life in the DDR, 172, 175; Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie, 31, 42, 52–54, 229; Palace of Tears, 31, 42, 47; terminology, 16; walking tour, 224–232; map, 226–227

Communist East Berlin, walking tour: 168–179; map, 169

Communist kitsch, shopping for: 292–293

Concentration camps: See Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum

Concert Hall: 38, 109–110, 302

Concerts: See Classical music

Costs of trip: 4

Courtyards (höfe): 30, 45, 174, 184–186, 189–190, 206

Cranach, Lucas: 249; in Wittenberg, 339, 340, 344, 346, 350–351, 353–357

Cranach Courtyard (Wittenberg): 350–351

Cranachhof (Wittenberg): 350–351

Credit cards: 383, 384–388

Cuisine: 275, 278, 399–408; traditional German fare, 403–408. See also Eating; Food

Currency and exchange: 384–385

Currywurst: 275, 278, 279, 281, 289, 291, 405

Curry 36: 62, 278, 289, 291

Customs regulations: 389–390

D

Day trips: 315–363; Potsdam, 315–330; Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum, 331–339; Wittenberg, 339–363

DB Tower: 240

DDR, Everyday Life in the: 42, 49–50, 202

DDR Museum: 30, 41, 44, 170

DDR Watchtower: 54, 238

Debit cards: 383, 384–388

Department stores: 298–299

Design, shopping for: 293

Deutsche Bahn, headquarters of: 240

Deutsche Kinemathek Film and TV Museum: 72–73, 241

Deutsche Oper: 302

Deutscher Dom: 110

Deutsches Historisches Museum: See German History Museum

Dieffenbachstrasse: 60

Dietrich, Marlene: 73, 77, 108, 240–241, 330

Dining: See Eating

Dinosaurs: 51

Discounts: 384; museum passes, 14–16. See also Money-saving tips; Museum Pass Berlin

Dock 11: 204

Doctors: 13

Drinks: 408–410. See also Beer

Drive Volkswagen Group Forum: 108

Driving: See Car travel

Dürer, Albrecht: 248–249

Dutch Quarter (Potsdam): 327

Dynamic currency conversion: 387

DZ Bank Building: 34, 96

E

East Berlin: Communist East Berlin, walking tour, 168–179; map, 169; use of term, 8, 212

Eastern Berlin: 10; map, 66; sights, 65–70; sleeping, 272–273. See also Friedrichshain

East Side Gallery: 31, 42, 67–68

East Side Mall: 67

Eating: 399–410; Berlin, 274–291; City West, 289–291; historic core, 275–279; Kreuzberg, 287–289; Prenzlauer Berg, 279–284; Scheunenviertel, 284–287; budgeting, 4; budget tips, 402–403; German restaurant phrases, 446; pricing, 400; tipping, 388, 402; Wittenberg, 362–363

Ebertstrasse: 72, 91, 93, 94

Egyptian Collection (Neues Museum): 39–40, 124–129

Elberadweg: 361

Elbe River Valley: 361

Electricity: 384

Embassies: 437; British, 100; Russian, 105–107; U.S., 13, 96, 437

Emergencies: 13, 383, 437

Engelberg: 206, 208, 282–283

Engels, Friedrich: 111, 171

Entertainment: 300–308; budgeting, 4; current schedule, 300; tickets, 301–302. See also Music; Theater

Entweder Oder: 206

Esarhaddon Stele: 147–148

EU (European Union): 378, 380–381

EurAide: 312, 313

Euro currency: 384–385

Europa Center: 79

Europaplatz: sleeping, 269

Everyday Life in the DDR: 42, 49–50, 202

Excursion areas: See Day trips

F

Falckensteinstrasse: 61

Farben: 204–206

Farmers markets: 295

Fasanenstrasse,: art galleries, 306

Fasching: 438

Fascism: 224, 235; top sights, 51–54; walking tour, 232–242; map, 226–227. See also Nazis

Fashion boutiques: 296–297

Fassbender & Rausch: 110, 297–298

Fat Tire Bikes: 22, 27

Fehrbelinner Platz: 295

Fernsehturm: See TV Tower

Festivals: 16, 437–438; Wittenberg, 347

Film and TV Museum: 72–73, 241

Films, recommended: 440

Flea markets: 294–295

Food: 275; farmers markets, 295; tours, 284. See also Cuisine; Eating; Street food

Forum Tower: 240

Frank (Anne) Center: 186

Frannz Club: 305

Französischer Dom: See French Cathedral

Frederick the Great: 1, 36–37, 38, 83, 103, 106–114, 160–161, 190, 272, 315, 367, 369; biographical sketch, 106–107; Sanssouci Park (Potsdam), 320–325; statue, 113

“Free” tours: 26

French Cathedral: 110, 303

French Impressionism: 136–137

Friedrich, Caspar David: 131–136

Friedrichshain: 10, 67–70; market, 295; nightlife, 307–308; sleeping, 272–273

Friedrichstadtpalast: 304

Friedrichstrasse: 108–109; shopping, 298

Friedrichstrasse Station: 20, 43, 47; sleeping near, 268–269

G

Galeria Kaufhof: 176

Galerie Kurt im Hirsch: 203

Galeries Lafayette: 109, 279, 298

Gay men and lesbians: 80, 93

Gedächtniskirche: See Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: See Berlin Wall Memorial

Gehry, Frank: 34, 96, 302

Gemäldegalerie: 74, 243–254; map, 246; orientation, 31, 243–245; self-guided tour, 246–254

Gemüse Kebab: 62, 278, 282, 286, 289

Gendarmenmarkt: 31, 38, 109–111; eating near, 279; shopping, 297–298

Georgenstrasse: eating, 122, 275

German Cathedral: 110

German Finance Ministry: 54, 233

German History Museum: 41, 43, 157–167; orientation, 30, 41, 157–158; self-guided tour, 158–167

German Resistance Memorial: 36, 75

German restaurant phrases: 446

German State Opera: See Berlin State Opera

German survival phrases: 445

German Unification: 371–372

German Unity Day: 378, 438

“Germany”: use of term, 366

Golden Hat: 124–125

Golssener Strasse: 64

Graefekiez: 59–60; eating, 287

Graefestrasse: 59–60, 287

Grimmstrasse: 60

Grosse Hamburger Strasse: 186–188

Guelph Treasure: 255–257

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 6, 435

Guided tours: See Tours

H

Hackesche Höfe: 45, 184; shopping, 297

Hackescher Markt: 181–183; eating, 286–287; maps, 194–195, 266–267; markets, 294; sleeping, 265, 268

Hals, Frans: 250–251

Hard Wax: 293–294

Hauptbahnhof: 9, 50–51, 311–313; arrival, 311–312; destinations, 313–314; shopping, 312; sights around, 50–51; tourist information, 13, 312

Haus Schwarzenberg: 37, 45, 184–186

Heckmann Höfe: 189–190

Heine, Heinrich: 112

Hekticket: 300–301

Helpful hints: 383–384; Berlin, 13–16; Wittenberg, 347–348

Himmler, Heinrich: 234, 235, 236, 333

Hirschhof: 206

Historical Town information Center (Wittenberg): 361

Historic core of Berlin: See Central Berlin

History: 364–378

History museum: See German History Museum

Hitler, Adolf: 34, 37, 56, 62, 71, 75, 81, 88, 90–92, 97, 108, 112, 117, 128, 164–166, 187, 233–237, 374–375; bunker site, 36, 98–99

Höfe (courtyards): 30, 45, 174, 184–186, 189–190, 206

Holbein, Hans, the Younger: 247–248

Holidays: 437–438

Holocaust: top sights commemorating, 37; Jewish Museum Berlin, 37, 55–56; Kristallnacht, 37, 56, 165, 198–199; memorials, 37, 81, 92–93, 112, 186, 187, 188; Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, 30, 35, 97–98; Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum, 331–339; stolpersteine, 37, 113, 184, 185

Holy Roman Empire: 158–159, 365–366

Hostels: 398–399; Berlin, 264, 265, 273; sleeping, 362

Hot-air ballooning: 231

Hotels: overview, 394–396; reservations, 396–397. See also Sleeping

Hotel Adlon: 96–97

Hotel de Rome: 111, 272

Hotel Oderberger: 203, 260–261

House of History (Wittenberg): 360

Humboldt Forum Visitors Center: 23, 41, 116

Humboldtstrasse (Potsdam): 327

Humboldt University: 111

Hundertwasserschule (Wittenberg): 361

Husemannstrasse: 200–201

I

Immigrants (immigration): 379

International Beer Festival: 438

International Literature Festival: 438

Internet access: 415–416

Internet security: 416

Isherwood, Christopher: 77, 439–440

Ishtar Gate: 144–145, 151

Itineraries: Berlin, 10–13; Potsdam, 317; Wittenberg, 341

J

Jackson, Michael: 97

Jazz: 303; Jazzfest Berlin, 438

Jewish Cemetery: 37, 187, 196

Jewish high school: 187

Jewish Museum Berlin: 37, 55–56

Jüdisches Museum Berlin: 37, 55–56

K

KaDeWe: 79–80, 291, 299

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church: 23, 31, 76, 78, 303

Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse: 10, 66, 170–171, 173, 175

Karl-Marx-Allee: 176, 178

Kastanienallee: 49, 202–204, 209, 305; eating, 279–283, 282; shopping, 296

Käthe Kollwitz Museum: 78–79

Kauf dich Glücklich: 206, 283, 297

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe): 79–80, 291, 299

Kebabs: 62, 275, 278, 282, 286, 288, 289

Kennedy, John F.: 43, 46–47, 80, 81

Kennedys Museum: 43, 46–47, 189

KGB Prison Memorial (Potsdam): 43, 329–330

Kieze, of Kreuzberg: 31, 58–62

Kiezkantine: 206

Kino Arsenal: 73

Klausberg Belvedere (Potsdam): 325

Kneipen: See Pubs

Kollhoff Tower: 73, 240

Kollwitz, Käthe: 38, 114, 163, 199–200; Museum, 78–79

Kollwitzkiez: 200, 283; eating, 283–284; shopping, 296

Kollwitzplatz: 199–200; eating, 283–284; market, 295

Komische Oper: 302

Konnopke’s Imbiss: 202, 281

Konzerthaus Berlin: 38, 109–110, 302

Kookaburra: 304

Koppenplatz: 188

Köthener Strasse: 238

Kottbusser Tor: 59

Kreuzberg: 10, 57–65; background, 57–58; eating, 287–289; Kieze, 31, 58–62; markets, 61, 287, 288, 294–295; shopping, 297

Kristallnacht: 37, 56, 165, 198–199

Kulturbrauerei: 49, 201–202; market, 295; shopping, 296; tourist information, 13

Kulturforum: 10, 74–75, 243–258; map, 245; orientation, 243–245

Kunstquartier Bethanien: 60

Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm): 10, 75–76, 299

L

Landwehr Canal: 59–60; market, 59, 287, 294–295

Language: 7; online translation tips, 384; restaurant phrases, 446; survival phrases, 445

Language barrier: 411

Laundry: 16

Lausitzer Strasse: 60

Layout of Berlin: 8–10

Lenbach, Franz von: 137

Liebermann-Villa (Wannsee): 330

Live music: See Classical music; Jazz; Music

Lustgarten: 116–117

Luther, Martin: 339–340, 368, 439; biographical sketch, 341–346; guided tours, 347–348; House (Wittenberg), 355–357, 359; legacy of, 358; sights in Wittenberg, 348–360; tomb of, 349

Luther Garden (Wittenberg): 360

Lutherhaus (Wittenberg): 355–357, 359

M

Mail: 416

Mall of Berlin: 299

Marheineke Markthalle: 61–62, 289

Marheinekeplatz: 61–62, 295

Marien Church: 173–174, 302

Market Gate of Miletus: 149–150

Markets: 294–295

Market Square (Wittenberg): 350

Markthalle Neun: 61, 288, 295

Marktplatz (Wittenberg): 350

Martin-Gropius-Bau: 237

Marx, Karl: 111, 171, 178

Marx-Engels-Forum: 171, 173

Mauerpark: 48–49, 209, 223; flea market, 294

Maybachufer street market: See Turkish Market

Medical help: 13, 383, 437

Mehringdamm: 62, 289

Meininger Hotel: 196, 264, 273

Melanchthon, Philipp: 340, 349, 350, 352, 353, 354; House (Wittenberg), 359

Memorial to May 10, 1933 Nazi Book Burning: 112

Memorial to Politicians Who Opposed Hitler: 90–91, 92

Memorial to the Homosexuals Persecuted Under the National Socialist Regime: 93

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: 30, 35, 97–98

Memorial to the Victims of Nazi “Euthanasia”: 93, 258

Menzel, Adolph: 137

Mercedes-Benz Arena: 305

Merkel, Angela: 142, 379, 380

Metric system: 441

Metzer Strasse: 197

“Missing buildings”: 188

Mobile phones: 410–415

Monbijoupark: 191, 306, 307

Money: 384–388; budgeting, 4; before you go, 5–6

Money belts: 384, 385, 387

Money-saving tips: 384; eating, 402–403; Museum Pass Berlin, 4, 13, 14–15; sleeping, 392–394

Monument to the Murdered Sinti and Roma of Europe: 92

Movies, recommended: 440

Movie theaters: 73, 241

Museum Barberini (Potsdam): 327

Museum Berggruen: 84

Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt: 37, 186

Museum für Naturkunde: 51

Museum Island: 9, 38–41, 114–118, 120–140; eating, 122–123, 275; map, 121; orientation, 121–123. See also Pergamon Museum

Museum Island Pass: 15, 121

Museum of Decorative Arts: 31, 75, 254–257

Museum of Islamic Art: 152–155

Museum of Otto Weidt’s Workshop for the Blind: 37, 186

Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie: 31, 42, 52–54, 229

Museum Pass Berlin: 4, 13, 14–15

Museum passes: 14–16. See also Museum Pass Berlin

Music: 301–303, 305; opera, 112, 302; shopping for, 293–294, 296; tango, 191, 307; tickets, 301–302; Wittenberg, 348

Musical Instruments Museum: 74–75, 258

N

Natural History Museum: 51

Navigation tools: 390, 428–429

Nazis (Nazism): 367, 374–376; top sights, 36–37; Fascism walking tour, 232–242; former Air Ministry, 36, 54, 224, 233–234; German History Museum, 164–167; German Resistance Memorial, 36, 75; guided tours, 24–25; Hitler’s bunker site, 36, 98–99; Kristallnacht, 37, 56, 165, 198–199; Memorial to Politicians Who Opposed Hitler, 90–91, 92; Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, 30, 35, 97–98; Neue Wache, 36, 113–114; New Synagogue, 45–46, 190–191; Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum, 331–339; Tempelhof Field, 36, 62, 64; terminology, 373; Topography of Terror, 31, 36, 54, 234, 236–237; Women’s Protest Memorial, 174. See also Holocaust

Neanderthal skull: 124

Nebuchadnezzar: 145–146

Nefertiti, Queen, bust of: 126–128

Neuer Garten (Potsdam): 327–330

Neues (New) Museum: 30, 39–40, 120, 123–129

Neue Wache: 36, 113–114

New National Gallery: 258

New Palace (Potsdam): 324–325

New Synagogue: 37, 45–46, 190–191

Niederkirchnerstrasse: 42, 232, 237

Nikolaikirche (Berlin): 45, 302–303

Nikolaikirche (Potsdam): 326

Nikolai Quarter: 44–45, 173; eating, 277, 279

Noir, Thierry: 68

Nordbahnhof “Ghost” Station: 43, 214–215, 217

Norman Tower (Potsdam): 325

Northern Berlin: 9; map, 46; sights, 45–51. See also Prenzlauer Berg; Scheunenviertel

O

Oderberger Strasse: 206, 208, 305; eating, 206, 208, 282–283

Old Museum: 40, 121, 140

Old National Gallery: 30, 40, 120–121, 129–138

Opera: 112, 302

Orangery (Potsdam): 325

Oranienburger Strasse: 186, 190–191; eating, 285; nightlife, 305–306

Oranienstrasse: 60–61; eating, 288

Organized tours: See Tours

Original Berlin Walks: 24–25, 320, 332

Orpheus Mosaic: 150

Otto Weidt’s Workshop for the Blind: 37, 186

P

Packing checklist: 443

Packing tips: 6

Palace of Tears: 31, 42, 47

Panoramapunkt: 73

Papyrus Collection: 128

Pariser Platz: 96–97

Passports: 5, 383, 387

Paul-Lincke-Ufer: 60, 305; eating, 287–288

Peacock Island: 330

Pergamon Altar: 142, 155–156

Pergamon Museum: 39, 141–156; map, 143; orientation, 30, 142–143; reservations, 5, 142; self-guided tour, 143–156

Philharmonic Concert Hall: 74–75, 244, 258, 301

Phones: 410–416

Piano, Renzo: 240

Pickpockets: 7, 387–388

Plattenbau: 173, 175

Platz der Luftbrücke: 43, 62, 64

Platz der Republik: 23, 87

Police: 383

Politics: 378, 380

Port of Warnemünde: 314

Post offices: 190, 415, 416

Potsdam: 315–330; map, 322–323; orientation, 317–318; planning tips, 317; sights, 320–330; tourist information, 318; tours, 320; transportation, 316–317, 318–319

Potsdamer Platz: 10, 72, 239–242; map, 245

Potsdam Museum: 326

Potsdam Old Town Hall: 326

Prater Biergarten: 203, 306

Prenzlauer Berg: 9, 31, 49–50, 193–209; eating, 279–284; maps, 194–195, 262–263; markets, 294, 295; nightlife, 305; orientation, 194–196; shopping, 296; sleeping, 260–264; tourist information, 13; transportation, 312; walking tour, 196–209

Pubs (kneipen): 275, 280, 284, 285–286, 290, 307

Q

Queen Nefertiti, bust of: 126–128

R

Radisson Hotel: 170

Rail passes: 420, 421, 422–423, 435

Rail travel: See Train travel

Ravenna Mosaic: 138–139

Reformation Day (Wittenberg): 347, 438

Regenbogenfabrik: 60

Reichstag: 9, 23, 29, 32–45, 86–90; memorials near, 30, 34–35; orientation, 29, 30, 32, 86–87; reservations, 5, 29; visiting, 32–34

Rembrandt van Rijn: 251–252

Rental properties: See Apartment rentals

Resources from Rick Steves: 434–436

Restaurants: See Eating

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt: 109, 298

Rogers, Richard: 240

Romans, ancient: 139, 364; art at Pergamon Museum, 149–151

Romanticism: overview, 132

Rosenhöfe: shopping, 297

Rosenstrasse: 174

Rosenthaler Platz: 49; eating, 286; sleeping near, 264–265

Rosenthaler Strasse: 183–184, 296–297

Rubens, Peter Paul: 250

Russian Embassy: 105–107

Rykestrasse Synagogue: 37, 198–199

S

Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum: 331–339; background, 333–334; map, 333; orientation, 332; self-guided tour, 334–339; transportation, 331–332

St. Hedwig Catholic Hospital: 188

St. Hedwig’s Cathedral: 111–112, 303

St. Mary’s Church: See Marien Church

St. Mary Town Church (Wittenberg): 351–355

Sammlung Boros: 47–48

Sanssouci Palace (Potsdam): 321–324

Sanssouci Park (Potsdam): 320–326

Sausage (wurst): about, 403, 405–406

Savignyplatz: eating near, 289–291; sleeping, 270–272

S-Bahn: 16–17, 20; map, 18–19; Nordbahnhof “Ghost” Station, 43, 214–215, 217; Potsdam, 316–317; Sachsenhausen, 331; tickets, 17–20

Schabowski, Günter: 177

Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection: 83–84

Scheunenviertel: 9, 37, 45–49, 180–192; art galleries, 306; eating, 284–287; maps, 182–183, 266–267; markets, 294; nightlife, 305–306; orientation, 180–181; shopping, 297; sleeping, 264–269; transportation, 312; walking tour, 181–192

Schinkel, Karl Friedrich: 38, 62, 83, 109–110, 117, 131, 326, 371

Schliemann, Heinrich: 40, 129

Schloss Charlottenburg: 31, 82–83

Schlosskirche (Wittenberg): 348–350

Schöneberg: 12, 80–81

Schöneberg City Hall: 43, 81, 295

Schönefeld Airport: 310–311

Schwedter Strasse: 208, 223

Seasons: 4–5

Senefelderplatz: 196; pubs near, 284

Shopping: 292–299; budgeting, 4; clothing sizes, 441; hours, 383; VAT refunds, 389; what to buy, 292–294

Short-term rentals: See Apartment rentals

Siegessäule: 23, 34, 71–72, 95–96

Sightseeing: 28–258; at a glance, 30–31; budgeting, 4; itineraries, 10–13; maps and navigation tools, 390; Museum Pass Berlin, 4, 13, 14–15; museum passes, 14–16; planning tips, 390–392; Potsdam, 320–330; reservations, 5. See also specific sights

Silent Heroes Memorial: 37, 186

SIM card: 411, 414–415

Sleep code: 393

Sleeping: 392–399; Berlin, 259–273; City West, 269–272; maps, 262–263, 266–267, 270–271; Prenzlauer Berg, 260–264; Scheunenviertel, 264–269; budgeting, 4; online reviews, 399; rates and deals, 392–394; reservations, 5, 396–397; types of accommodations, 394–399; Wittenberg, 361–362

Smartphones: 6, 410–415. See also Apps

Smell of Berlin: 115

Smoking: 301

Sony Center: 72, 241, 299

Sophienkirche: 188

Southern Berlin: 9–10; map, 52; sights, 51–65. See also Kreuzberg

Soviet War Memorial: 43, 92–93

Spandau Citadel: 305

Spandauer Strasse: 173

Speer, Albert: 71, 97, 165, 333

Spree River: 8, 90, 114, 118, 191, 305; cruises, 27, 171, 173

Squatters: 205, 379

Staatsoper: 112, 302

Stadtkirche St. Marien (Wittenberg): 351–355

Stadtschloss/Ladtag (Potsdam): 327

Stasi: overview, 69

Stasi Museum: 43, 68–70

Stasi Prison: 70

Steves, Andy, tours: 27

Stolpersteine (stumbling stones): 37, 113, 184, 185

Strandbar Mitte: 306

Strassburger Strasse: 197

Strasse des 17 Juni: 70, 295

Strausberger Platz: 179

Street food: 275, 278. See also Currywurst; Kebabs

Stresemannstrasse: 238–239

Subway: See U-Bahn

Synagogues: 37, 45–46, 190–191, 198–199

T

Tango: 191, 307

Taxes: VAT refunds, 389

Taxis: 426; Berlin, 21; Potsdam, 319; tipping, 388; Wittenberg, 347

Tegel Airport: 13, 310, 312

Telephone numbers, useful: 436

Telephones: 410–416

Tempelhof Field: 36, 62, 64

Temperatures, average monthly: 442

Terrorism: 380

Teufelsberg: 34

Theater: 202, 240–241; movie, 73, 241; tickets, 301–302; variety shows, 304

Theater RambaZamba: 304

Theft alert: 383, 387–388

Thirty Years’ War: 182, 368–369

Tickets: 301–302

Tiergarten: 10, 23, 70–72, 95–96; flea market, 295

Time zones: 383

Tipping: 388, 402

Tomb of Cartinia: 150

Topography of Terror: 31, 36, 54, 234, 236–237

Tour guides: Berlin, 26; Wittenberg, 347–348

Tourist information: 382–383; Berlin, 13; Potsdam, 318; Wittenberg, 347

Tours: Berlin, 22–27; by bike, 22, 27; food, 284; Potsdam, 320; Rick Steves, 435; Sachsenhausen, 332; Wittenberg, 347–348

Town Church of St. Mary (Wittenberg): 351–355

Trabi, the: 44, 230, 231

Trabi Museum: 231

Trabi World: 231

Train travel: 417–425; Berlin, 311–314; getting a seat, 424–425; map, 418–419; Potsdam, 316–317, 318; Sachsenhausen, 331; schedules, 417, 420; tickets, 420–424; Wittenberg, 341, 347, 363

Trams: 16–17, 20–21; map, 18–19; Potsdam, 319; tickets, 17–20

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears): 31, 42, 47

Transportation: 416–434; Berlin, 16–22, 309–314; map, 18–19; tickets, 17–20; budgeting, 4; map, 418–419; Potsdam, 316–317, 318–319; Sachsenhausen, 331–332; Wittenberg, 341, 347, 363

Travel insurance: 5

Travel smarts: 6–7

Travel tips: 383–384

Treptower Park: 43, 64–65

Trip costs: 4

Tuntenhaus: 203–204

Turkish Market: 59, 287, 294–295

TV show, recommended: 440

TV Tower: 66, 174; eating near, 276

U

U-Bahn: 16–17; map, 18–19; tickets, 17–20

Uber: 21, 426

Unter den Linden: 8–9, 23, 30, 35–38, 103, 107–108; map, 104–105; self-guided walking tour, 101–119

US Embassy: 13, 96, 437

V

Van der Weyden, Rogier: 249–250

VAT refunds: 389

VEB Orange: 208

Vermeer, Johannes: 252–253

Victory Column: 23, 34, 71–72, 95–96

Visitor information: 382–383; Berlin, 13; Potsdam, 318; Wittenberg, 347

W

Walking tours, guided: Berlin, 24–26; Potsdam, 320; Wittenberg, 347–348

Walking tours, self-guided: Berlin Wall Memorial, 210–223; Communist East Berlin, 168–179; Fascism and Cold War sights, 224–242; Museum Island, 120–140; Prenzlauer Berg, 193–209; Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate, 86–100; Scheunenviertel, 180–192; Unter den Linden, 101–119

“Wall of Remembrance” (Berlin Wall): 216–217

Wannsee: 330

Warnemünde: 314

Warschauer Strasse: 67

Wasserturm: 197–198

Water Tower: 197–198

Weather: 4, 442

Weekend Student Adventures (WSA): 27

WelcomeCard: 15–16, 17–19

Wenders, Wim: 71–72, 440

“West Berlin”: use of term, 8, 212

Western Berlin: 10; map, 71; sights, 70–85. See also City West

Wilhelmstrasse: 99–100, 233

Willy Brandt Berlin-Brandenburg International Airport: 309–310

Wine: 410

Wittenberg: 339–363; eating, 362–363; helpful hints, 347–348; map, 342–343; orientation, 346–347; sleeping, 361–362; tourist information, 347; transportation, 341, 347, 363

Wittenberge: 346–347

Wittenberg Historical Town information Center: 361

Wittenberg House of History: 360

Wittenbergplatz: 80, 295

Wittenberg Town Hall: 350

Wittenberg 360 Panorama: Luther 1517: 359–360

Women’s Protest Memorial: 174

World Time Clock: 176

World War I: 163–164, 367, 373

World War II: 367, 374–376; books about, 439; German History Museum, 165–166; guided tours, 24–25; top sights, 36–37. See also Holocaust; Nazis

Wrangelkiez: 61; eating, 288–289

Wrangelstrasse: 61

Wurst (sausage): about, 403, 405–406

Z

Zimmerstrasse: 229, 231–232

Zionskirche: 207

Zoo: See Berlin Zoological Garden