1. Santorum quoted in Charles M. Blow, “Santorum.” The original speech is archived on the Oxford Center for Religion and Public Life website at http://www.ocrpl.org/?p=96.
2. Dolan, “Fox’s Elisabeth Hasselbeck.”
3. Paoletti, Pink and Blue.
4. Justice Winter, Massie v. Henry, February 2, 1972.
5. For intersectionality in women’s fashion, Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain’t I a Beauty Queen? includes a thorough discussion of the relationship between black beauty culture, feminism, and the civil rights movement. Stylist Lloyd Boston (Men of Color: Fashion, History, Fundamentals) offers a detailed history of African American men’s fashions and their role in men’s fashions since World War II. Monica Miller’s Slaves to Fashion employs an intersectional lens in her historical study of black men’s use of elite fashions to perform both race and gender.
1. Roberts, “Old Grad Returns,” 303.
2. Horowitz, “Mitt Romney’s Prep School Classmates Recall Pranks.”
3. Bentley, “For the Right to Wear Our Hair Long.”
4. Goodson, “Next Generation Brand.”
5. Coupland, Generation X.
6. Kimmel, “Real Man Redux,” 48.
7. Kagan and Lunde quoted in Adams, “Male & Female: Differences between Them.”
8. Benedek and Adelson quoted in ibid.
9. Kagan and Symonds quoted in ibid.
10. Wyden, “When Both Wear the Pants.”
11. I am indebted to Dr. Susan-Marie Stedman, a scientist at NOAA, for this insight.
12. Miller, Slaves to Fashion.
13. “Harry Hay Interview.”
14. Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 139.
15. Faure, Rudi Gernreich, 23.
16. Kazin, “The Young: The Party of Hope,” 122.
17. Vanderbilt quoted in Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 132.
18. Ibid., 132.
19. Bullough, Science in the Bedroom.
20. Constantinople, “Masculinity-Femininity”; Bem, “Measurement of Psychological Androgyny.”
1. Smith and Greig, Women in Pants.
2. Fairchild, Fashionable Savages, 87.
3. Audsley, Bowling for Women, 11; emphasis added.
4. Fairchild, Fashionable Savages, 177.
5. Pierre, Looking Good, 137.
6. “Hem and the Haw,” Newsweek, 80.
7. Bradley, Husband-Coached Childbirth, 240.
8. Heidrich, Berg, and Bergman, “Clothing Factors and Vaginitis.”
9. “Beauty Bulletin,” Vogue, 127.
10. Ibid., 146.
11. Torres quoted in Fairchild, Fashionable Savages, 88.
12. Bender, “New Fashions Are Sad Blow to ‘Older’ Set,” 20.
13. Farrell-Beck, Uplift: The Bra in America, 147.
14. Fiegel, Dream a Little Dream of Me, 157.
15. Ibid., 217.
16. Ollove, “1960s Siren.”
17. Fiegel, Dream a Little Dream of Me, 176.
18. Ibid. 157; Ollove, “1960s Siren.”
19. Klemesrud, “Day for Plump, Motherly Models,” 38.
20. Milinaire and Troy, Cheap Chic.
21. “Personality Types and the Clothes That Go with Them,” Seventeen, August 1965.
22. Seventeen, June 1965, 22.
23. Pierre, Looking Good, 138.
24. Davidson, “Foremothers”; “Women Who Are Cute When They Are Mad,” 81.
25. “What If . . . Gloria Steinem Were Miss America?,” 132.
26. Gilder, Sexual Suicide, 7.
27. Von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life, 55.
28. Molloy, Dress for Success for Women.
29. Molloy, Dress for Success.
30. Molloy, Dress for Success for Women, 72.
31. Laver quoted in Taylor, “Women Perplex Fashion Historian.”
1. The term “peacock revolution” appeared in Frazier’s Esquire columns in 1968 but was originally coined by consumer psychology icon Ernest Dichter in 1965. Haye et al., Handbook of Fashion Studies, 193.
2. Nicholson, “Men’s Clothes,” 38.
3. Dearborn, Psychology of Clothing, 59.
4. Nystrom, Economics of Fashion, 71–78.
5. Babl, “Compensatory Masculine Responding,” 252–257.
6. Grambs and Waetjen, Sex, Does It Make a Difference?, 115; emphasis in original.
7. Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 140.
8. Conekin, “Fashioning the Playboy,” 454.
9. Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 139.
10. Kendall, “Men’s Fashions,” 174.
11. Bender quoted in Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 134.
12. Fish quoted in ibid., 157.
13. Green, “Modified Mod,” 149.
14. Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 149.
15. John Rogers, donation cover letter, 1980, Fashion Archives and Museum, Shippensburg University, PA.
16. “Bill Blass,” Voguepedia.
17. Ephron, “Man in the Bill Blass Suit,” 330.
18. “Suited for City Squiring,” Playboy, 135.
19. Lobenthal, Radical Rags, 39.
20. Ibid., 153.
21. Gernreich quoted in ibid., 39.
22. Taylor, “Men’s Fashions in the 1960’s,” 62.
23. Priore, “Joe Pepitone.”
24. Palmer quoted in Bennett-England, Dress Optional, 37.
25. Green, “Back to Campus,” September 1965, 140–142.
26. Green, “Back to Campus,” September 1966, 179.
27. Both ads appear in Playboy, September 1966.
28. Hentoff, “Youth—the Oppressed Majority,” 136.
29. Green, “Back to Campus,” September 1967, 179.
30. Green, “Back to Campus,” September 1968, 159.
31. Green, “Back to Campus,” September 1969, 276.
32. Bonnie and Clyde, directed by Arthur Penn. Warner Bros.–Seven Arts and Tatira-Hiller Productions, 1967.
33. Bennett-England, Dress Optional, 151.
34. Faure, Rudi Gernreich: A Retrospective.
35. Johnston, “What Will Happen to the Gray Flannel Suit?”
36. Taylor, “Hair Grooming Goes Unisex,” 38.
37. Phalon, “Long-Hair Trend Thinning Barber Ranks,” 20.
38. “Setting Your Own Style,” 61–88.
39. “Resort Fashion Report,” 104.
40. Aletti, “Discotheque Rock ’73,” 60.
41. Miller, Slaves to Fashion.
42. Bennett-England, Dress Optional.
43. Lynes, “What Revolution in Men’s Clothes?,” 26.
44. A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk.
45. Cole, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel.
46. Hair: The American Tribal Love-Rock Musical (1967) and Oh! Calcutta! (1969) debuted off-Broadway and then moved into major productions in New York and London. A pay television video version of Oh! Calcutta! (1971) was released to theaters in 1972, and a film version of Hair, directed by Miloš Forman, was released in 1979. Bob and Carol and Ted and Alice (1969) began as a feature film written and directed by Paul Mazursky and starring Natalie Wood, Robert Culp, Elliott Gould, and Dyan Cannon.
47. Pierre, Looking Good, 160.
48. Blazina, Cultural Myth of Masculinity.
1. Zolotow, William’s Doll; Thomas, Free to Be . . . You and Me.
2. Cook, Commodification of Childhood.
3. “New Day Dawning at Sears,” 44–45.
4. Paoletti, Pink and Blue.
5. Blank, Straight: The Surprisingly Short History.
6. Tanous, Making Clothes for Your Little Girls, 16.
7. “How to Sell Boys’ Wear,” 67–68.
8. “Spring 1974 Swatch Book,” 16.
9. “Male and Female Differences,” 43–44.
10. Money and Ehrhardt, Man and Woman, Boy and Girl
11. “Who Was David Reimer (also, Sadly, Known as ‘John/Joan’)?”; Colapinto, As Nature Made Him.
12. Gould, “X: A Fabulous Child’s Story,” 1972; Gould, X: A Fabulous Child’s Story, 1978.
13. Gould, “X: A Fabulous Child’s Story,” 1998.
14. Seavey, Katz, and Zalk, “Baby X.” 103–109.
15. Gould, X: A Fabulous Child’s Story, 1978.
16. Woodward, “Do Children Need Sex Roles?,” 79–80.
17. Ibid.
18. Horn, “Does a Boy Have the Right to Be Effeminate?,” 34, 100–101.
19. Guttentag and Bray, Undoing Sex Stereotypes.
20. B. Rice, “The Power of a Frilly Apron: Coming of Age in Sodom and New Milford,” Psychology Today, September 1975, 64–66.
21. Weisner and Eiduson, “Children of the 60’s as Parents,” 66.
22. Carmichael, Non-Sexist Childraising.
23. Ellison, “My Parents’ Failed Experiment.”
24. Burge, “Parental Child-Rearing Sex-Role Attitudes,” 199.
25. Examples of this sort of news item abound and include Palmer, “Angelina Jolie Says”; “J. Crew Ad Showing Boy”; Fisher, “My Son, the Princess”; and Hoffman, “On Parenting a Boy Who Is Different.”
26. “Boy or Girl?”
1. Ribeiro, Dress and Morality, and Robson, Dressing Constitutionally, both offer extensive descriptions of early sumptuary laws.
2. Derek Miller cited in Emerson, “British ‘His and Her’ Hairdos,” 29.
3. Mick Jagger quoted in ibid.
4. “School Orders Boy,” 44.
5. Rhodes, “Attleboro High Alums Come Together,” Sun Chronicle.
6. Bellaire, “Story of Georgie Porgie.”
7. Morris and Morris, “Are You a Boy or Are You a Girl.”
8. “Legal Group Snips at School ‘Rights.’”
9. “Students’ Rights Stressed in Report.”
10. “Supreme Court Lets Maryland Ruling Stand.”
11. “High Court Bars Review of Ruling on Long Hair.”
12. Buder, “Principals Score Long-Hair Ruling,” 31.
13. “Now It’s a Short Cut to Learning.”
14. “Student Fashions.”
15. Tinker v. Des Moines Independent Community School District (1969).
16. Horowitz, “Mitt Romney’s Prep School Classmates.”
17. Massie v. Henry (1972).
18. Cash v. Hoch (1970).
19. Blaine v. Board of Education (1972).
20. Independent School District v. Swanson (1976).
21. Massie v. Henry (1972).
22. Breen v. Kahl (1969).
23. Dawson v. Hillsborough (1971).
24. Howell v. Wolf (1971).
25. Lambert v. Marushi (1971).
26. Miller v. Gillis (1969).
27. Martin v. Davidson (1971).
28. Yoo v. Moynihan (1969).
29. Zwerdling, “Unshaven, Unshorn, and Unacceptable.”
30. “Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964.”
31. Diaz v. Pan American World Airways, Inc. (1972).
32. Fagan v. National Cash Register Company (1973).
33. Willingham v. Macon Telegraph Publishing Co. (1975).
34. Donohue v. Shoe Corporation of America (1972).
35. Aros v. McDonnell Douglas Corporation (1972).
36. Golden, “Sex Discrimination and Hair-Length Requirements,” 349.
37. Ibid., 350.
38. “Jailed Airman Finds Rules Have Changed,” 10.
39. “Airline Stewardess Wins Right,” 1.
40. “Title IX, Education Amendments of 1972.”
41. Jacobs v. Benedict (1973).
42. Trent v. Perritt (1975).
43. Feron, “Fashion, If Not Tradition,” 45.
44. Lipsyte, “Hair Again,” 58.
45. Wallace v. Ford (1972).
46. Feron, “Fashion, If Not Tradition.”
47. “Coaching Staff Resigns,” 42.
48. “Horace Mann Boys,” 1.
49. Johnson, “Constitution, the Courts, and Long Hair,” 32.
50. “Hairy Case,” 13.
51. Freeman v. Flake (1971).
1. Schulman, Seventies: The Great Shift, 186.
2. Ibid., 187.
3. Cohen, “Opting Out and Jumping In.”
4. hooks, Feminist Theory.
5. Paoletti, Pink and Blue.
6. “Direction ’88,” D9.
7. Kaiser, Rudy, and Byfield, “Role of Clothing in Sex-Role Socialization.”
8. Hoffman, “On Parenting a Boy Who Is Different.”
9. Perrin quoted in Schoenberg, “When Kids Cross the Gender Divide.”
10. Schoenberg, “When Kids Cross the Gender Divide.”
11. Grinberg, “Hasbro to Unveil Black and Silver Easy-Bake Oven.”
12. Coles quoted in Long, “Feminism Is Back in Fashion.”
13. Sterne, “Joanna Coles: ‘Cosmopolitan.’”
14. Orenstein, “What’s Wrong with Cinderella?”
15. Waters, “Leaving the Pink Behind.”
16. American Psychological Association, “Sexualization of Girls.”
17. Tirella, “Hannah Montana Crowned.”
18. Stephens-Davidowitz, “Google, Tell Me. Is My Son a Genius?”
19. Molloy, “Suits and Accessories.”
20. “Kennedy’s Barber Club Experience.”
21. Staplehurst, “Don Draper Effect.”
22. Baldoni, “‘Mad Men’: Learning from the Dark Side.”
23. Andelin, Fascinating Womanhood, 118.
24. Moran, “Gender Equality.”
25. Wolf, “Gender Equality.”
26. Pierre, Looking Good, 160.
27. Referring to Queer Eye for the Straight Guy (2003–2007), Bravo.
28. Twenge, “Changes in Masculine and Feminine Traits,” 5–6.
29. Fausto-Sterling, Sexing the Body.
30. Butler, Gender Trouble.
31. Parker, “Justice,” 18.
32. Zappa, “Take Your Clothes Off When You Dance.”