Keeping up Appearances

Notes

Introduction

1. R. Macaulay, Keeping Up Appearances (Collins, 1928, repr. Methuen, 1986), p. 63.

2. R. Cutforth, Later Than We Thought. A Portrait of The Thirties (Newton Abbot, David & Charles, 1976), pp. 34–7.

3. M.-O. A., D.R. 1211 reply to June 1939 directive.

4. T. Jeffery, ‘A Place in the Nation: The Lower Middle Class in England’, in R. Koshar (ed.), Splintered classes. Politics and the lower middle classes in interwar Europe (New York, Holmes & Meier, 1990), p. 71.

5. C. White, Women’s Magazines 1693–1968 (Michael Joseph, 1978), p. 117.

6. R. Lewis and A. Maude, The English Middle Classes (Phoenix, 1949), p. 13.

7. H. Perkin, The Rise of Professional Society. England since 1880 (Routledge, 1989, repr. 2002), p. 96.

8. R. Samuel, ‘The middle class between the wars: part three’, New Socialist, May/June 1983, p. 29.

9. A. Jackson, The Middle Class 1900–1945 (Nairn, David St John Thomas, 1991), p. 12.

10. R. Samuel, ‘The middle class between the wars: part one’ (New Socialist Jan/Feb 1983), p. 30.

11. Lewis and Maude, English Middle Classes, p. 20.

12. D.H. Aldcroft, The Inter-war Economy: Britain 1919–1939 (Batsford, 1973), p. 352.

13. J.B. Priestley, English Journey (Heinemann, 1934; repr. Mandarin, 1996); R. Graves and A. Hodge, The Long Weekend (Faber & Faber, 1940, repr. Abacus, 1995).

14. Priestley, English Journey, pp. 4–5.

15. A.M. Carr-Saunders, and D. Caradog Jones, A survey of the social structure of England and Wales, as illustrated by statistics (Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1938), p. 62.

16. J. Laver, Taste and Fashion (Harrap, 1931, repr. 1945), p. 104.

17. E. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams. Fashion and Modernity (Berkeley, University of California Press, 1985), p. 160.

18. Samuel, ‘The middle class: part three’, p. 29.

19. Samuel, ‘The middle class: part three’, p. 29.

20. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams, pp. 149–50.

21. C. Breward, The Culture of Fashion. A new history of fashionable dress (Manchester, Manchester University Press), p. 183.

22. A. de la Haye, ‘The Dissemination of Design from Haute Couture to Fashionable Ready-to-wear during the 1920s’, Textile History 24, 1 (1993), pp. 40–2.

23. A. Holdsworth, Out of the Doll’s House: The Story of Women in the Twentieth Century (BBC Books, 1988), p. 159.

24. T. Polhemus and L. Procter, Fashion & anti-fashion: an anthropology of clothing and adornment (Thames & Hudson, 1978), p. 69.

25. I. Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (Penguin, 1959, repr. 1990), p. 28.

26. Daily Mail, 8 February 1936.

27. Quoted in A. Ribeiro, Dress and Morality (Batsford, 1986), p. 159.

28. J.M. Heimann, The Most Offending Soul Alive. Tom Harrisson and his Remarkable Life (Honolulu, University of Hawaii Press, 1999, repr. Aurum, 2002), p. 129.

29. D. Bloome et al., Reading Mass-Observation Writing. Theoretical and Methodological Issues in Researching the Mass-Observation Archive (Brighton, University of Sussex Library, 1993), p. 3.

30. C. Horwood, ‘“Keeping Up Appearances”: Clothes, Class and Culture, 1918–1939’, Ph.D., Royal Holloway, University of London (2003).

31. G.B. Shaw, Man and Superman (Constable, 1903), p. 325.

1. Shopping for Status

1. Vogue, January 1931, p. 53.

2. L.E. Neal, Retailing and the Public (Allen & Unwin, 1933).

3. J.B. Jefferys, Retail Trading in Britain 1850–1950 (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press), p. 61.

4. Jefferys, Retail Trading, p. 62.

5. Neal, Retailing, pp. 43 and 47.

6. Jefferys, Retail Trading, p. 78.

7. Jefferys, Retail Trading, p. 329.

8. M. Corina, Fine Silks and Oak Counters. Debenhams 1778–1978 (Hutchinson Benham, 1978), p. 111.

9. Corina, Fine Silks, p. 121.

10. History of Advertising Trust/SEL/813.

11. D. Wainwright, The British Tradition. Simpson – a World of Style (Quiller Press, 1996), p. 30.

12. B. Lancaster, The Department Store. A Social History (Leicester University Press), p. 102; Corina, Fine Silks, p. 117.

13. E. Whiteing, Anyone for Tennis?’ Growing up in Wallington between the wars (Sutton, Sutton Libraries, 1979), p. 35.

14. History of Advertising Trust/SEL/1223.

15. Neal, Retailing, p. 23.

16. Whiteing, Anyone for Tennis?, p. 30.

17. History of Advertising Trust/SEL/322/1933.

18. John Lewis Partnership Archive, 18, memo dated 2 September 1932.

19. John Lewis Paterniship Archive, 118, memo dated 6 June 1932.

20. Lancaster, Department Store, p. 86.

21. Neal, Retailing, p. 12.

22. History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/3.

23. History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/4 History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/3.

24. History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/4 History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/3.

25. History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/9; History of Advertising Trust/CA/1/16.

26. The Statistical Review of Press Advertising, II, 2, January 1934, pp. 118–19; IV, 1, October 1935, p. 139.

27. Lancaster, Department Store, p. 90.

28. D.W. Peel, A Garden In The Sky. The Story of Barkers of Kensaington 1870–1957 (W.H. Allen, 1960), p. 80.

29. A. Adburgham, Shops and Shopping 1800–1914. Where, and in What Manner the Well-dressed Englishwoman Bought her Clothes (George Allen & Unwin, 1964), pp. 281–2.

30. Interview with Mrs J.B.

31. Oxfordshire County Record Office, B7/N/9.

32. J. Benson, The Rise of Consumer Society in Britain 1880–1980 (Longman, 1994), pp. 206–7.

33. W. Bland, Fashion for Pleasure’, Costume 12 (1978), p. 95.

34. L. Goldman, Oh What a Lovely Shore! Brighton in the Twenties through the Eyes of a Schoolboy (Brighton, L. Goldman, 1999), p. 98.

35. Whiteing, Anyone for Tennis, pp. 37–8.

36. Oxfordshire County Record Office, B17/c/1.

37. Interview with Mrs T.R.

38. A. Wise, ‘Dressmaking in Worthing’, Costume 32 (1998), p. 82.

39. Lewes U3A Oral History Group, Lewes Remembers Shops and Shopping (Lewes, Lewes U3A Publications, 1999), p. 54.

40. Jefferys, Retail Trade, p. 334.

41. Wise, ‘Dressmaking’, p. 84.

42. Goldman, Oh What a Lovely Shore!, p. 37.

43. D. Whipple, High Wages (John Murray, 1930, repr. New York, Harmondsworth, 1946).

44. Whipple, High Wages, pp. 115–16.

45. E. Newby, Something Wholesale. My Life and Times in the Rag Trade (Secker & Warburg, 1962, repr. Picador, 1985).

46. Newby, Something Wholesale, p. 171.

47. H. Levy, The Shops of Britain (Kegan Paul, Trench, Trubner & Co., 1947), p. 84.

48. Goldman, Oh What a Lovely Shore!, p. 101.

49. C. Langhamer, Women’s leisure in England 1920–1960 (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 2000), p. 40.

50. M.-O. A., D.R. 1559 reply to April 1939 directive.

51. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/2/F.

52. M.-O. A., D.R. 1077 reply to May 1939 directive.

53. L. Goldman, Brighton Beach to Bengal Bay (Brighton, L. Goldman, 1999), p. 35.

54. J. Wayne, The Purple Dress: growing up in the thirties (Gollancz, 1979), p. 42.

55. Goldman, Oh What a Lovely Shore!, p. 103.

56. M.-O. A., D.R. 1032 reply to May 1939 directive.

57. Royal Holloway, University of London, Bedford Centre for the History of Women Archive RHC RF131/7, M. Pike, Social Life at Royal Holloway College 1887–1939, Part II, p. 212.

58. M.-O. A., D.R. 1559 reply to April 1939 directive.

59. Interview with Mrs E.E.

60. M.-O. A., D.R. 1289 reply to June 1939 directive.

61. White, Women’s Magazines, pp. 94–5.

62. Mass-Observation, Browns of Chester. Portrait of a Shop 1780–1946 (Lindsay Drummond, 1947), p. 200.

63. Aldcroft, Inter-War Economy, p. 352.

64. P. Massey, ‘The expenditure of 1,360 British middle-class households in 1938–39’, Journal of the Royal Statistical Society, CV, part 3 (1942), pp. 159–85.

65. Massey, ‘Expenditure’, pp. 159–85.

66. K. Bill, ‘Clothing Expenditure by a Woman in the Early 1920s’, Costume, 21 (1993), pp. 57–8.

67. E.M. Delafield, The Diary of a Provincial Lady (1930, repr. Virago, 1985), pp. 9–10.

68. J. Robson, ‘The role of clothing and fashion in the household budget and popular culture, Britain, 1919–1949’, D.Phil. Oxford (1998), pp. 97–8.

69. The Lady, 2 January 1936, p. 35.

70. The Lady, 9 January 1936, p. 72.

71. The Lady, 9 July 1936, p. 93.

72. The Lady, 19 March 1936, p. 490.

73. The Lady, 3 July 1913, p. 50.

74. The Lady, 30 January 1919, p. 111.

75. The Lady, 1 October 1925, Supplement, p. VI.

76. The Lady, 7 February 1939, Supplement, p. III.

77. The Lady, 9 March 1939, Supplement, p. II.

78. The Lady, 21 January 1932, Supplement, p. II.

79. The Lady, 3 January 1929, Supplement, inside front cover.

80. Victoria & Albert Museum Archive, AAD/1989/8/2/1.

81. V. & A. M.A. AAD/1989/8/1/180.

82. V. & A. M.A. AAD/1989/8/1/167.

83. Delafield, Diary of a Provincial Lady, pp. 44–5.

84. V. & A. M.A. AAD/1989/8/1/32; AAD/1989/8/1/116.

85. V. & A. M.A. AAD/1989/8/1/124–7.

86. A. Briggs, Friends of the People: The Centenary History of Lewis’s (Batsford, 1956), p. 129.

87. Briggs, ‘Friends of the People’, p. 89.

88. Interview with Mrs E.E.

89. Interview with Mrs S.R.

90. Interview with Mrs S.R.

91. Oxfordshire County Record Office, B17/F10/1 (Jan 1933–Feb 1937); B17/F10/2 (March 1937–Dec 1941).

92. Vogue, January 1931, p. 53.

93. Sartorial Gazette, October 1929, p. 479; December 1934, p. 546; Style Guide (1935), 1, p. 55.

94. E. Sigsworth, Montague Burton. The tailor of taste (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1990), p. 51.

95. Men’s Wear, 2 July 1921, p. 16.

96. Sartorial Gazette, January 1935, p. 16.

97. M.-O. A., D.R. 1590 reply to May 1939 directive.

98. B. Ritchie, A Touch of Class. The Story of Austin Reed (James & James, 1990), p. 56.

99. P. Byrde, The Male Image. Men’s Fashion in England 1300–1970 (Batsford, 1979), p. 1.

100. Men’s Wear, 7 October 1922, p. 7.

101. Briggs, Friends of the People, p. 153.

102. M.-O. A., D.R. 1225 reply to May 1939 directive.

103. M.-O. A., D.R. 1291 reply to April 1939 directive.

104. M.-O. A., D.R. 1318 reply to April 1939 directive.

105. Levy, Shops of Britain p. 87.

106. Jefferys, Retail Trade, p. 315.

107. M.-O. A., F.R. A17 (Clothes), p.18.

108. Jefferys, Retail Trade, p. 300.

109. Lewes OHG, Lewes Remembers Shops, p. 57.

110. Sigsworth, Montague Burton, pp. 42–3.

111. E. Campbell, Can I Help You, Sir? (Peter Davies, 1939), p. 250.

112. Campbell, Can I Help You, Sir?, p. 254.

113. Ritchie, A Touch of Class, p. 47.

114. Sigsworth, Montague Burton, p. 46; K. Honeyman, ‘Montague Burton Ltd: The creators of well-dressed men’, in J. Chartres and K. Honeyman (eds), Leeds city business 1893–1993 (Leeds, University of Leeds, 1993), p. 207.

115. M.-O. A., F.R. A17 (Clothes), p. 16.

116. Simpson’s Archive, Guardbook 1 ‘B’.

117. Sigsworth, Montague Burton, p. 50.

118. M.-O. A., F.R. A17 (Clothes), p. 17.

119. Jefferys, Retail Trade, p. 303.

120. Ritchie, A Touch of Class, p. 44.

121. D. Caradog Jones, ‘Cost of Living of a Sample of Middle-class Families’ in Journal of the Royal Statistical Society, IV, 1928, p. 471.

122. The Tatler, 11 December 1929, p. xxix.

123. D. Lockwood, The Blackcoated Worker. A Study in Class Consciousness (George Allen & Unwin, 1958, repr. Oxford, Clarendon, 1989), p. 45.

124. Campbell, Can I Help You Sir?, p. 167.

125. Interview with Mr M.M.

126. Campbell, Can I Help You Sir?, p. 166.

127. W. Tute, The Grey Top Hat. The Story of Moss Bros of Covent Garden (Cassell, 1961), pp. 58–9.

128. Campbell, Can I Help You Sir?, p. 173.

2. Black Coats and White Collars

1. M.-O. A., D.R. 1216 reply to May 1939 directive.

2. Sartorial Gazette, October 1925, p. 443.

3. Aldcroft, Inter-War Economy, p. 352.

4. Jeffery, A Place in the Nation, p. 83.

5. J.G. Marley and H. Campion, ‘Changes in Salaries in Great Britain, 1924–1939’, Journal of the Royal Statistical Society IV (1940), p. 531.

6. H.L. Smith, The New Survey of London Life and Labour, III, Survey of Social Conditions (I) The Eastern Area (1932), Appendix 1, p. 416.

7. C.R. Hewitt, Towards my Neighbour: The Social Influence of the Rotary Club Movement in Great Britain & Ireland (Rotary International Association of Great Britain and Ireland, 1950), p. 3.

8. Hewitt, Towards my Neighbour, p. 11.

9. L.J. Shaw, The Rotary Club of Poole, Dorset (Poole, Rotary Club of Poole, 1973), p. 4.

10. Hewitt, Towards my Neighbour, p. 11.

11. H.J. Haden, The Rotary Club of Stourbridge 1922–1972. The Golden Jubilee History of Stourbridge Rotary Club (Stourbridge, 1973), between pp. 16 and 17.

12. F. Mort, Cultures of Consumption. Masculinities and Social Space in late twentieth-century Britain (Routledge, 1996), p. 137.

13. Caradog Jones, ‘Cost of Living’, pp. 463–502; Massey, ‘Expenditure’, pp. 159–85.

14. M.-O. A., D.R. 1415 reply to May 1939 directive.

15. M.-O. A., D.R. 1456 reply to May 1939 directive.

16. M.-O. A., D.R. 1264 reply to May 1939 directive.

17. Sartorial Gazette, May 1933, p. 203.

18. M.-O. A., D.R. 1194 reply to May 1939 directive.

19. M.-O. A., D.R. 1508.1 reply to May 1939 directive.

20. M.-O. A., D.R. 1130 reply to June 1939 directive.

21. Newby, Something Wholesale, p. 45.

22. E.J. Howard, Slipstream. A Memoir (Macmillan, 2002), p. 14.

23. R. Cobb, Still Life. Sketches from a Tunbridge Wells Childhood (Chatto & Windus, 1983), p. 141.

24. Man and His Clothes, January 1927, p. 7.

25. S. Nicholas, ‘The Construction of a National Identity: Stanley Baldwin, “Englishness” and the Mass Media in Inter-war Britain’, in M. Francis and I. Zweiniger-Bargielowska (eds), The Conservatives and British Society, 18801990 (Cardiff, University of Wales Press, 1996), p. 140.

26. A.W. Baldwin, My Father: The True Story (George Allen & Unwin, 1955), p. 140.

27. D. Judd, Radical Joe. A Life of Joseph Chamberlain (Cardiff, University of Wales Press, 1993), p. 265.

28. A. Marwick, Class. Image and Reality in Britain, France and the USA since 1930 (Collins, 1980), p. 88.

29. Sartorial Gazette, February 1934, p. 82.

30. Manchester Evening News, 9 November 1938.

31. Bradford Times & Argus, 4 May 1935.

32. T.S. Eliot, ‘The Wasteland’ (1922), in H. Gardner (ed.), New Oxford Book of English Verse 1250–1950 (Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1972), p. 84.

33. P. Corfield, Power and the Professions in Britain 1700–1850 (Routledge, 1995), p. 32.

34. A.M. Carr-Saunders, and D. Caradog Jones, A survey of the social structure of England and Wales, as illustrated by statistics (Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1938), p. 64.

35. A.M. Carr-Saunders, and D. Caradog Jones, A survey of the social structure of England and Wales, as illustrated by statistics (Humphrey Milford, 1928), p. 69.

36. Perkin, Rise of Professional Society, pp. 116–17.

37. Samuel, ‘The middle class, part one’, p. 30.

38. C. Breward, The Hidden Consumer. Masculinities, fashion and city life 1860–1914 (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1999), pp. 76–7.

39. Letter from Mr J.T. Hendrick, 31 March 2000.

40. M.-O. A., D.R. 1178 reply to April 1939 directive.

41. Style Guide (1935), 1 sec., p. 59.

42. Style Guide, December 1934, p. 546.

43. Style Guide, June 1933, p. 277.

44. M.-O. A., D.R. 1411 reply to May 1939 directive.

45. I am grateful to his son Professor T.P. Barwise of London Business School for this information.

46. M. Berg, A woman in history. Eileen Power, 1889–1940 (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1996), p. 153.

47. N. Robinson, The Royal Society Catalogue of Portraits (Royal Society, 1980), p. 178.

48. J. Brown, Lutyens and the Edwardians (Viking, 1996), plate 11, between pp. 84 and 85.

49. W. Blunt, Married to A Single Life. An Autobiography 1901–1938 (Salisbury, Michael Russell, 1983), p. 141.

50. M.-O. A., D.R. 1435 reply to April 1939 directive.

51. M.-O. A., D.R. 1425 reply to April 1939 directive.

52. B. Magee, Clouds of Glory. A Hoxton Childhood (Jonathan Cape, 2003), p. 178.

53. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

54. M.-O. A., D.R. 1435, D.R. 1507 replies to April 1939 directive.

55. L. Ugolini, ‘Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford’, Fashion Theory 4, 4, 2000, p. 440.

56. C. Breward, ‘Men, fashion and luxury, 1870–1914,’ in A. de la Haye and E. Wilson (eds), Defining Dress. Dress as object, meaning and identity (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1999), p. 52.

57. Lockwood, Blackcoated Worker, p. 45.

58. R. McKibbin, Classes and Cultures. England 1918–1951 (Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1998), p. 45.

59. F.D. Klingender, The Condition of Clerical Labour in Britain (Martin Laurence, 1935), pp. 79–80.

60. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

61. M.-O. A., D.R. 1207, reply to April 1939 directive.

62. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

63. John Lewis Partnership Archive, 3004/p.

64. Sartorial Gazette, January 1929, p. 12; July 1934, p. 309.

65. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

66. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

67. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

68. Lockwood, Blackcoated Worker, p. 122.

69. Sartorial Gazette, August 1930, p. 360.

70. M.-O. A., D.R. 1459 reply to April 1939 directive.

71. M.-O. A., D.R. 1427 reply to May 1939 directive.

72. J. Flugel, The Psychology of Clothes (Hogarth Press, 1930), p. 113.

73. J. Flugel, Men and Their Motives (Kegan Paul, Trench, Trubner, 1934), p. 65.

3. Business Girls and Office Dresses

1. Victoria & Albert Museum Archive, aad 1995/10/2 Daily Mirror, 18 February 1935.

2. J. Lewis, Women in England, 1870–1950 (Hemel Hempstead, Harvester Wheatsheaf, 1984), p. 152.

3. L. Davidoff and B. Westover, ‘“From Queen Victoria to the Jazz Age”: Women’s World in England, 1880–1939’, in L. Davidoff and B. Westover (eds), Our Work, Our Lives, Our Words (Basingstoke, Macmillan Educational, 1986), p. 28.

4. S. Alexander, ‘Men’s Fears and Women’s Work: Responses to Unemployment in London Between the Wars’, Gender and History 12, 2 (2000), p. 417.

5. K. Sanderson, ‘“A Pension to Look Forward to … ?”: Women Civil Service Clerks in London, 1925–1939’, in Davidoff and Westover, Our Work, p. 151.

6. Lockwood, Blackcoated Worker, p. 91.

7. Lockwood, Blackcoated Worker, p. 122.

8. Carr-Saunders and Caradog Jones, Survey (1928), p. 68; Carr-Saunders and Caradog Jones, Survey (1938), p. 65.

9. C. Dyhouse, Feminism and the family in England 1880–1939 (Oxford, Blackwell, 1989), p. 64.

10. Girls’ Favourite, 27 May 1922, p. 400.

11. T. Davy, ‘“A Cissy Job for Men; a Nice Job for Girls”: Women Shorthand Typists in London, 1900–1939’, in Davidoff and Westover, Our Work, p. 129.

12. Miss Modern, October 1930, p. 30.

13. M. Ryan, Office Training for Girls (Pitman, 1933), p. 134.

14. Girls’ Favourite, 9 December 1922, p. 451.

15. M.-O. A., D.R. 1178 reply to May 1939 directive.

16. Girls’ Favourite, 1 April 1922, p. 194.

17. Miss Modern, January 1932, p. 9.

18. Lockwood, Blackcoated Worker, p. 45.

19. Daily Mail, 19 November 1927.

20. Marley, ‘Changes in Salaries’, pp. 530–1.

21. R. Bowlby, ‘The Cost of Living of Girls Professionally Employed in the County of London’, Economic Journal 4 (1934), pp. 328–33.

22. Whiteing, ‘Anyone’, p. 59.

23. M.-O. A., D.R. 1085, reply to June 1939 directive.

24. H.L. Smith, The New Survey of London Life and Leisure, V, London Industries II (London School of Economics and Political Science, 1931), p. 195.

25. Smith, New Survey, V, II, p. 180.

26. M.-O. A. T.C. 18/1/C.

27. F. Donaldson, Child of the Twenties (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1959, repr. 1986), p. 134.

28. Miss Modern, February 1936, p. 32.

29. Miss Modern, November 1932, p. 20.

30. Victoria & Albert Museum Archive, aad/1995/10/2; Daily Mirror, 18 February 1935.

31. Miss Modern, October 1930, p. 42.

32. M.-O. A., D.R. 1040 reply to May 1939 directive.

33. Girls’ Favourite, 27 June 1922, p. 400.

34. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

35. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C.

36. Sanderson, ‘A Pension to look forward to’, p. 152.

37. Marley, ‘Changes in Salaries’, p. 527.

38. M. Pugh, Women and the Women’s Movement in Britain 1914–1939 (Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1992), p. 192.

39. C. Sykes, Nancy: the life of Lady Astor (Panther, 1972), p. 202.

40. J. Fox, The Langhorne Sisters (Granta, 1999), p. 319.

41. Drapers’ Record, 12 July 1930, p. 57.

42. Davidoff and Westover, ‘From Queen Victoria’, p. 10.

43. A. Vickery, ‘Golden Age to Separate Spheres: A Review of the Categories and Chronology of English Women’s History,’ Historical Journal 36, 2 (1993), p. 413.

44. Quoted in R. Macaulay, Life Among the English (Collins, 1942), p. 21.

45. A.S. Williams, Ladies of Influence. Women of the Elite in Interwar Britain (Allen Lane, 2000), p. 46.

46. M.-O. A., D.R. 1068 reply to April 1939 directive.

47. M.-O. A., D.R. 1534 reply to April 1939 directive.

48. E. Campbell, Can I Help You, Madam? (Cobden-Sanderson, 1938), p. 104.

49. D. Beddoe, Back to Home and Duty. Women Between the Wars 1918–1939 (Pandora, 1989), p. 77.

50. J. Gathorne-Hardy, The Public School Phenomenon (Hodder & Stoughton, 1977), p. 243.

51. S. Harrop, The Merchant Taylors’ School for Girls, Crosby. One hundred years of achievement 1888–1988 (Liverpool, Liverpool University Press, 1988), p. 105.

52. Harrop, Merchant Taylors’, p. 105.

53. A. Brazil, Joan’s Best Chum (Blackie & Co., 1926), frontispiece.

54. Harrop, Merchant Taylors’, pp. 84–5.

55. Harrop, Merchant Taylors’, pp. 84–5.

56. M.-O. A., D.R. 1581 reply to May 1939 directive.

57. E. Edwards, Women in teacher training colleges, 1900–1960 (2000), p. 41.

58. Edwards, Women in teacher training colleges, pp. 53, 56 and 71.

59. Royal Holloway, University of London, Archives BC PH7/1–3, BC PH7/9.

60. Royal Holloway, University of London, Archives BC PH7/9.

61. Interview with Mrs J.B.

62. Royal Holloway, University of London, Archives RHC RF131/1, Pike, Social Life Part II, p. 212.

63. Royal Holloway, University of London, Pike, Social Life Part II.

64. Royal Holloway, University of London, Archives RHC RF 131/7, Pike, Social Life Part IV, pp. 490–1.

65. Berg, A woman in history, p. 145.

66. Berg, A woman in history, p. 154.

67. L. Martindale, A Woman Surgeon (Gollancz, 1951).

68. H. Martindale, Women Servants of the State 1870–1938 (George Allen & Unwin, 1938).

69. National Portrait Gallery P363 (13); C. Townsend-Gault, ‘Symbolic facades: official portraiture in British institutions since 1920’, Art History 11, 4 (1988), pp. 511–26.

4. In Home and Garden

1. Woman’s Own, October 1932, p. 15.

2. Lewis, Women in England, p. 152.

3. J. Burnett, A social history of housing, 1815–1970 (Newton Abbot, David & Charles, 1978), p. 246.

4. McKibbin, Classes and Cultures, p. 73.

5. Jeffery, ‘A Place in the Nation’, p. 75.

6. A. Jackson, Semi-Detached London: Suburban Development, Life and Transport, 1900–1939 (Allen & Unwin, 1973), p. 169.

7. Jackson, Semi-Detached London, p. 169.

8. D. Ryan, ‘“All the World and Her Husband”: The Daily Mail Ideal Home Exhibition 1908–39’, in M. Andrews and M. Talbot (eds), All the World and Her Husband. Women in Twentieth-Century Consumer Culture (Cassell, 2000), p. 15.

9. P. Horn, Life Below Stairs in the 20th Century (Stroud, Sutton Publishing, 2001), p. 35.

10. Smith, New Survey, II, I, p. 439; C.S. Peel, Life’s Enchanted Cup: An Autobiography (1872–1933) (John Lane, 1933), p. 261.

11. Punch, 16 March 1921, p. 210.

12. Smith, New Survey, II, p. 442.

13. C. Horwood, ‘“Housewives’ Choice”. Women as Consumers Between the Wars’, History Today, March 1997, p. 23.

14. S. Bowden and A. Offer, ‘The Technological Revolution That Never Was: Gender, Class and the Diffusion of Household Appliances in Interwar England’, in V. de Grazia and E. Furlough (eds), The Sex of Things: Gender and Consumption in Historical Perspective (Berkeley, University of California Press, 1996), p. 245.

15. Bowden and Offer, ‘Technological Revolution’, p. 250.

16. M.-O. A., D.R. 1488 reply to April 1939 directive.

17. Miss Modern, December 1932, p. 29.

18. Woman’s Own, October 1932, p. 15.

19. M.-O. A., D.R. 1488 reply to April 1939 directive.

20. M.-O. A., D.R. 1488 reply to July 1939 directive.

21. M.-O. A., D.R. 1559 reply to April 1939 directive.

22. Interview with Mrs D.R.

23. D. Woods, Correct Dance-Room Behaviour: A Safe Guide for Avoiding Mistakes in the Dance Room (Universal Publications, 1936), p. 70.

24. Woods, Correct Dance-Room Behaviour, p. 69.

25. Bowden and Offer, ‘Technological Revolution’, pp. 245–8.

26. L. Hirst, ‘Dressing the part. Workwear for the home 1953–1965’, things 9 (1998), p. 25.

27. M.-O. A., D.R. 1420 reply to July 1939 directive.

28. Jackson, Semi-Detached London, p. 169.

29. M.-O. A., D.R. 1488 reply to May 1939 directive.

30. M.-O. A., D.R. 1559 reply to May 1939 directive.

31. M.-O. A., D.R. 1362 reply to July 1939 directive.

32. Campbell, Can I Help You, Madam?, p. 103.

33. K. Silex, tr. H. Paterson, John Bull at Home (G.G. Harrap & Co., 1931), p. 150.

34. Good Housekeeping, February 1931, p. 58.

35. E. Elias, Straw Hats and Serge Bloomers (W.H. Allen, 1979), p. 140.

36. Britannia and Eve, July 1930, pp. 30–1.

37. M.-O. A., D.R. 1533 reply to May 1939 directive.

38. Polhemus and Procter, Fashion & anti-fashion, p. 69.

39. Interview with Mrs E.E.

40. M.-O. A., D.R. 1299 reply to May 1939 directive.

41. Fashions for all, January 1925, p. 10.

42. E.M. Forster, Selected Letters of E.M. Forster 1879–1920, Vol. 1, ed. M. Lago and P.N. Furbank (Collins, 1983), pp. 253–5.

43. M.-O. A., D.R. 1194 reply to June 1939 directive.

44. M.-O. A., D.R. 1384 reply to May 1939 directive.

45. M.-O. A., D.R. 1505 reply to April 1939 directive.

46. L. Bradstock and J. Condon, The Modern Woman. Beauty, Physical Culture, Hygiene (Associated Newspapers, 1936).

47. 1289 reply to July 1939 directive.

48. Interview with Mrs D.R.; C. Cannon (ed.), Our Grandmothers, Our Mothers, Ourselves. A Century of Women’s Lives (Ogomos, 2000), p. 125.

49. Campbell, Can I Help You, Madam?, p. 103.

50. C. Zmroczek, ‘The Weekly Wash’, in S. Oldfield (ed.), This Working Day World. Women’s Lives and Culture(s) in Britain 1914–1945 (Taylor & Francis, 1994), p. 11.

51. N. Beauman, A Very Great Profession. The Woman’s Novel 1914–39 (Virago, 1983), p. 111.

52. Cutforth, Later Than We Thought, p. 31.

53. H. Forester, Success Through Dress (Duckworth, 1925), p. 166.

54. Girls’ Favourite, 15 January 1927, p. 574.

55. M.-O. A., D.R. 1299 reply to May 1939 directive.

56. Miss Modern, October 1930, p. 30

57. Miss Modern, January 1932, p. 9.

58. The Times, 16 March 1932.

59. M.-O. A., D.R. 1285 reply to July 1939 directive.

60. M.-O. A., T.C. 38/1/1/K.

61. Miss Modern, September 1932, p. 50; November 1932, p. 50; January 1936, p. 48; February 1936, p. 57.

62. M.-O. A., D.R. 1542 reply to July 1939 directive.

63. Statistical Review, I, 1, October 1932, pp. 62–3; III, 1, October 1934, p. 90.

64. Statistical Review, I, 3, April 1933, p. 99.

65. Statistical Review, VI, 3, April 1938, p. 56.

66. Statistical Review, V, 3, April 1937, p. 54.

67. M.-O. A., D.R. 1459.1 reply to April 1939 directive; D.R.1470.1, reply to May 1939 directive.

68. M.-O. A., D.R. 1289 reply to July 1939 directive.

69. M.-O. A., D.R. 1068 reply to April 1939 directive.

70. Statistical Review, IV, 1, October 1935, p. 114; IV, 2, January 1936, p. 113; VI, 3, April 1938, p. 118; VII, 4, July 1939, p. 118.

71. Good Housekeeping, February 1931, p. 18.

72. Good Housekeeping, March 1930, p. 222.

73. Good Housekeeping, July 1935.

74. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 39.

75. M.-O. A., D.R. 1474 reply to April 1939 directive.

76. The Times, 10 August 1932.

77. Cutforth, Later, p. 30.

78. New Statesman and Nation, 20 August 1938, p. 276.

79. Newby, Something Wholesale, p. 45.

80. John Osborne, A better class of person. An autobiography 1929–1956 (Faber, 1981), p. 23.

81. M.-O. A., D.R. 1194 reply to May 1939 directive.

82. M.-O. A., D.R. 1264 reply to April 1939 directive.

83. M.-O. A., D.R. 1301 reply to May 1939 directive.

84. J. Waller (ed.), A Man’s Book (Duckworth, 1977), p. 139.

85. M.-O. A., D.R. 1456 reply to April 1939 directive; D.R. 1301, 1318 and 1325 replies to May 1939 directive.

86. M.-O. A., D.R.s 1207, D.R.1141 replies to May 1939 directive.

87. M.-O. A., D.R. 1325 reply to May 1939 directive.

88. M.-O. A., D.R. 1040 reply to June 1939 directive.

89. M.-O. A., D.R. 1264 reply to May 1939 directive.

90. Byrde, Male Image, p. 154.

91. The Sketch, 29 June 1927, p. 660.

92. Drapers’ Record, 5 April 1930, p. 16.

93. Punch, 18 June 1930, p. 685.

94. M.-O. A., D.R.s 1435; and 1465 replies to May 1939 directive.

95. M.-O. A., D.R. 1393 reply to May 1939 directive.

96. Film Fashionland, May 1934, pp. 16–17.

5. From Seaside to Sports Club

1. M. Dickens, Mariana (Michael Joseph, 1940, repr. Penguin, 1999), pp. 281–7.

2. Smith, New Survey, IX, p. 78.

3. J. Walton, The British Seaside. Holidays and resorts in the twentieth century (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 2000), p. 53.

4. J. Pimlott and R. Alfred, The Englishman’s Holiday: A Social History (Faber & Faber, 1947), pp. 239–40.

5. Interviews with Mrs D.S. and Mrs T.C.

6. The Lady, 1 July 1937, p. 32.

7. Smith, New Survey, IX, p. 82.

8. V.S. Pritchett, ‘Scarborough’ in Y. Cloud (ed.), Beside the Seaside (Stanley Knott, 1934), p. 189.

9. Pritchett, ‘Scarborough’, p. 191.

10. M.-O. A., D.R. 1459 reply to April 1939 directive.

11. M.-O. A., D.R. 1474 reply to April 1939 directive.

12. Interview with Mrs D.R.

13. Drapers’ Record, 13 August 1932, p. 12.

14. C. Horwood, ‘“Girls Who Arouse Dangerous Passions”: women and bathing, 1900–39’, Women’s History Review 9, 4 (2000), p. 666.

15. Pimlott and Alfred, Englishman’s Holiday, p. 219.

16. Horwood, ‘Girls Who Arouse’, p. 665.

17. M.-O. A., D.R. 1563 reply to July 1939 directive.

18. Girls’ Favourite, 1 July 1922, p. 520.

19. The Lady, 22 July 1937, pp. 162–3.

20. Interview with Mrs E.E.

21. Interviews with Mrs E.E., Mrs D.R., Mrs G.R. and Mrs D.D.; K. Bill, ‘Attitudes Towards Women’s Trousers: Britain in the 1930s’, Journal of Design History 6, 1 (1993), p. 47.

22. Greater Manchester County Record Office, Documentary Photography Archive 1872/38 and 40.

23. John Lewis Partnership Archive, 118/a Monthly Special Notice, June 1932.

24. Horwood, ‘Girls Who Arouse’, p. 663.

25. A. Holt, ‘Hikers and Ramblers: Surviving a Thirties’ Fashion’, International Journal of the History of Sport (1987), pp. 56–67.

26. McKibbin, Classes and Cultures, p. 76.

27. C. Horwood, ‘Dressing like a Champion: Women’s Tennis Wear in Interwar England’, in C. Breward, B. Conekin and C. Cox (eds), The Englishness of English Dress (Oxford, Berg, 2002), p. 46.

28. Woman’s Life, 3 May 1924, p. 3.

29. Smith, New Survey, I, p. 281.

30. Jackson, Semi-detached London, p. 182.

31. McKibbin, Classes, p. 362.

32. Langhamer, Women’s leisure, p. 80.

33. Tennis Illustrated, August 1927, p. 46.

34. D. Round, Modern Lawn Tennis (George Newnes, 1934), p. 13

35. Horwood, ‘Dressing like a Champion’, p. 46.

36. S. Lenglen, Lawn Tennis for Girls (George Newnes, 1919), pp. 28–9.

37. Woman’s Life, 3 May 1924, pp. 20–1.

38. Woman’s Life, 31 May 1924, p. 12.

39. Woman’s Life, 31 May 1924, p. 5.

40. Vogue, May 1937, pp. 56–7 and 61.

41. Wimbledon Championship Programme, Kenneth Ritchie Wimbledon Library, Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum (1937), p. 7.

42. Punch, 20 June 1932, p. 681.

43. F. Perry, Fred Perry: an autobiography (Hutchinson, 1984), p. 10.

44. C. Horwood, ‘“Anyone for Tennis?”: Male Modesty on the Tennis Courts in Interwar Britain’, Costume 38 (2004), pp. 103–4.

45. M.-O. A., D.R. 1212 reply to April 1939 directive.

46. D. Birley, Playing the Game (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1995), p. 165.

47. G. Cousins, Golf in Britain: a social history from the beginnings to the present day (Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1975), p. 53.

48. B. Seymour, All About Golf (Ward Lock & Co., 1924), p. 24.

49. R. Cossey, Golfing ladies. Five centuries of golf in Great Britain and Ireland (Orbis, 1984), p. 114.

50. J. Farrell, Socks and Stockings (Batsford, 1992), p. 73.

51. Farrell, Socks and Stockings, p. 73.

52. Farrell, Socks and Stockings, p. 73.

53. The Outfitter, 11 July 1936, p. 14.

54. Daily Mail, 10 August 1920.

55. Men’s Wear, 20 April 1929, p. 67.

56. Cossey, Golfing Ladies, p. 35.

57. The Sketch, 29 June 1927, p. ix.

58. Vogue, 30 May 1928, pp. 60–1.

59. K. McCrone, Sport and the physical emancipation of women, 1870–1914 (Routledge, 1988), pp. 216–46.

60. Punch, 24 September 1930, p. 340.

61. M. Crane, The Story of Ladies’ Golf (Stanley Paul, 1991), p. 146.

62. Cossey, Golfing Ladies, p. 114; Punch, 20 April 1921, p. 309.

63. Crane, Ladies’ Golf, p. 146.

64. Vogue, 4 August 1937; Simpson’s Guardbook K1 ‘B’.

65. Cossey, Golfing Ladies, p. 115.

66. The Times, 11 October 1934.

67. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 276.

68. M.-O. A., D.R. 1264, 1393; and 1474 replies to May 1939 directive.

69. Greater Manchester County Record Office, 1141/2.

70. Obituary, Daily Telegraph, 25 January 2002.

71. Holt, ‘Hikers and Ramblers’, p. 59.

72. British Library 1883c13/2a.

73. R. Baden-Powell, Lessons from the Varsity of Life (A. Pearson, 1933), pp. 284–5.

74. Baden-Powell, Lessons, pp. 284–5.

75. M.-O. A., D.R. 1108 reply to May 1939 directive.

76. Baden-Powell, Lessons, pp. 284–5.

77. Bernstein Questionnaire (British Film Institute, 1937).

78. M.-O. A., D.R. 1264 reply to May 1939 directive.

79. M.-O. A., D.R. 1456 reply to April 1939 directive.

6. Top Hats and Tulle

1. Delafield, Diary of a Provincial Lady, p. 9.

2. The Times, 21 October 1957.

3. McKibbin, Classes and Cultures, pp. 390–1.

4. Rust, Dance in society: an analysis of the relationship between the social dance and society in England from the Middle Ages to the present day (Thames & Hudson, 1969), p. 93.

5. V. Buckley, Good times: at home and abroad between the wars (1979), p. 85; Rust, Dance in society, p. 92.

6. J. Stevenson, British Society 1914–45 (Penguin, 1984, repr. 1990), p. 397.

7. V. Silvester, Dancing is My Life (Heinemann, 1958), p. 32.

8. Silvester, Dancing, p. 102.

9. Rust, Dance in society, p. 93.

10. Rust, Dance in society, p. 93.

11. Middlesex County Times, 30 July 1921.

12. Stevenson, British Society, p. 398.

13. B.S. Rowntree and G.R. Lavers, English Life and Leisure (Longman, Green & Co., 1951), p. 279.

14. M.-O. A., D.R. 1140 reply to January 1939 directive.

15. S. Messenger, ‘The lifestyle of young middle-class women in Liverpool in the 1920s and 1930s’, Ph.D., University of Liverpool (1999).

16. M.-O. A., D.R. 1159 reply to January 1939 directive.

17. Whipple, High Wages, p. 96.

18. M.-O. A., D.R. 1091 reply to January 1939 directive.

19. M.-O. A., D.R. 1207 reply to January 1939 directive.

20. M.-O. A., D.R. 1140 reply to January 1939 directive.

21. M.-O. A., D.R. 1122 reply to January 1939 directive.

22. M.-O. A., D.R. 1300 reply to July 1939 directive.

23. M.-O. A., T.C. 38/5/H.

24. A. de Courcy, 1939: The Last Season (Thames & Hudson, 1989, repr. Phoenix, 2003), p. 198.

25. M.-O. A., D.R. 1040 reply to January 1939 directive.

26. M.-O. A., D.R. 1299 reply to July 1939 directive.

27. M.-O. A., D.R. 1135 reply to January 1939 directive.

28. A. MacCarthy, The Dance Band Era: the dancing decades from ragtime to swing: 1910–1950 (Studio Vista, 1971), p. 76.

29. Rust, Dance in society, p. 129.

30. Magee, Clouds of Glory, p. 165.

31. E.F. Benson, Queen Lucia (Hutchinson, 1920, repr. Black Swan, 1970), p. 41.

32. Punch, 15 April 1936, p. 421.

33. The Tatler, 25 December 1929, p. 637.

34. Man and His Clothes, June 1927.

35. The Times, 30 May 1922.

36. Man and His Clothes, August 1927.

37. L. Lewis, The Private Life of A Country House (1912–1939) (Newton Abbot, David & Charles, 1980), p. 89.

38. Lewis, Private Life, p. 67.

39. M.-O. A., D.R. 1135 reply to January 1939 directive.

40. Woods, Correct Dance-room Behaviour, p. 76.

41. M.-O. A., D.R. 1086 reply to July 1939 directive.

42. O. Lancaster, With an Eye to the Future (Century, 1986), pp. 58–9.

43. Man and His Clothes, March 1927, p. 4.

44. Men’s Wear, 30 July 1932, p. 12.

45. Men’s Wear, 14 August 1920, p. 291.

46. Man and His Clothes, May 1927, p. 7.

47. Man and His Clothes, January 1933, p. 21.

48. Lewis, Private Life, p. 111.

49. Punch, 18 March 1925, p. 290.

50. M.-O. A., D.R. 1400, reply to January 1939 directive.

51. B. Burman and M. Leventon, ‘The Men’s Dress Reform Party 1929–37’, Costume 21 (1987), p. 75.

52. Men’s Wear, Special Shipping Number, June 1920, p. 59.

53. Punch, 26 June 1929, p. 720; 3 July 1929, p. 14; 10 July 1929, p. 54.

54. Punch, 15 March 1929, p. 546.

55. The Times, 28 May 1934.

56. Man and His Clothes, June 1933, p. 15.

57. Ritchie, Touch of Class, p. 74.

58. R. Rhodes James (ed.), “Chips”: The Diaries of Sir Henry Channon (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1967, repr. Penguin, 1999), p. 60; Man and His Clothes, October 1927, p. 11.

59. Duke of Windsor, A Family Album (Cassell, 1960), p. 93.

60. Man and His Clothes, January 1933, p. 21.

61. Man and His Clothes, February 1937, p. 34.

62. Punch, 31 May 1933, p. 593.

63. T. Rattigan, The Collected Plays of Terence Rattigan, vol. 2 (Hamish Hamilton, 1953), pp. xi–xii.

64. The Times, 17 March 1932.

65. The Times, 15 March 1932.

66. The Times, 17 March 1932.

67. The Times, 23 March 1932.

68. The Times, 21 March 1932.

69. The Times, 22 March 1932.

70. The Times, 30 March 1932.

71. The Times, 30 March 1932.

72. Punch, 18 December 1929, p. 697.

73. Men’s Wear, 25 December 1926, p. 412.

74. M.-O. A., D.R. 1040 reply to January 1939 directive.

75. Bernstein Questionnaire (British Film Institute, 1934), p. 5.

76. World Film News (1936), quoted in J. Richards, The Age of the Dream Palace: Cinema and Society in Britain 1930–1939 (Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1984), p. 171.

77. Major R. Hoare, This Our Country (1934), quoted in Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 297.

78. A. Kuhn, ‘Cinema, culture and femininity in the 1930s’, in C. Gledhill and G. Swanson (eds), Nationalising Femininity. Cultures, sexuality and British cinema in the Second World War (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1996), pp. 181–2.

79. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 347; Richards, Dream Palace, p. 207.

80. Bernstein Questionnaire (1934), p. 1.

81. R. Lehmann, Invitation to the Waltz (Chatto & Windus, 1932, repr. Virago, 2001).

82. M.-O. A., D.R. 1963 reply to July 1939 directive.

83. M.-O. A., D.R. 1420 reply to July 1939 directive.

84. Richards, Dream Palace, pp. 178–9.

85. Wayne, The Purple Dress, p. 8.

86. Elias, Straw Hats, p. 76.

87. M.-O. A., D.R. 1408 reply to July 1939 directive.

88. Daily Mail, 13 May 1925.

89. The Times, 7 October 1927.

90. Vogue, 10 July 1929, p. 68.

91. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 45.

92. West Middlesex Gazette, 10 July 1926.

93. The Times, 30 March 1932.

94. Miss Modern, October 1930, p. 54.

95. Miss Modern, November 1930, p. 88.

96. J. and M. Davidson, Etiquette at a Dance: What to Do and What Not to Do (W. Foulsham & Co., 1937), p. 29.

97. de Courcy, 1939: The Last Season, p. 89.

98. M.-O. A., D.R.1077 reply to May 1939 directive.

99. Delafield, Diary of a Provincial Lady, p. 9.

100. Interview with Mrs T.R.

101. M.-O. A., D.R. 1086 reply to July 1939 directive.

102. M.-O. A., D.R. 1408 reply to July 1939 directive.

103. M.-O. A., D.R. 2318 reply to July 1939 directive.

104. Punch, 7 January 1920, p. 7.

105. John Lewis Partnership Archive, Monthly Special Notices, 118, September 1932.

106. M.-O. A., D.R. 1077 reply to January 1939 directive.

107. M.-O. A., D.R. 1051 reply to January 1939 directive.

108. Langhamer, Women’s leisure, pp. 167–8.

109. M.-O. A., D.R. 1035 reply to January 1939 directive.

110. M.-O. A., D.R. 1462 reply to July 1939 directive.

111. M.-O. A., D.R. 1566 reply to January 1939 directive.

112. M.-O. A., D.R. 1534 reply to July 1939 directive.

113. M.-O. A., D.R. 2210 reply to January 1939 directive.

114. Lewis, Private Life; M.-O. A., D.R. 1060 reply to January 1939 directive.

115. M.-O. A., D.R. 2187 reply to January 1939 directive.

116. John Lewis Partnership Archive, Monthly Special Notices, 118a, September 1932.

117. S. Alexander, ‘Becoming a Woman in London in the 1920s and 1930s’, in D. Feldman and G. Stedman Jones (eds), Metropolis, London. Histories and Representations (Routledge, 1989), pp. 264–5.

118. McKibbin, Classes and Cultures, p. 397.

7. Everything to Match

1. Miss Modern, January 1936, p. 31.

2. Cutforth, Later Than We Thought, p. 28.

3. M.-O. A., D.R. 1456 reply to May 1939 directive.

4. P.G. Wodehouse, ‘Jeeves and the Impending Doom’, Very Good, Jeeves! (Herbert Jenkins, 1930, repr. 2001), p. 12.

5. The Times, 20 July 1928.

6. M.-O. A., D.R. 1384 reply to April 1939 directive.

7. Baldwin, My Father, p. 102.

8. Victoria & Albert Museum Archive, aad 2/11–1983.

9. J. Laver (ed.), The Book of Public School Old Boys, University, Navy, Army Air Force & Club Ties (Seeley Service, 1968), p. 34.

10. Laver, Public School Old Boys.

11. F. Chenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion (Flammarion, 1993), p. 164.

12. Chenoune, History of Men’s Fashion.

13. Punch, 18 June 1930, p. 681.

14. J. and D.L. Moore, The Pleasure of Your Company (Gerald Howe, 1933), p. 292.

15. P. Keers, A Gentleman’s Wardrobe. Class Clothes and the Modern Man (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1987), p. 12.

16. A. Davidson, Blazers, Badges and Boaters. A Pictorial History of School Uniform (Horndean, Scope, 1990), p. 140.

17. A. Powell, A Dance to the Music of Time I. A Question of Upbringing (Heinemann, 1951, repr. Mandarin, 1991), pp. 88–91.

18. Cutforth, Later Than We Thought, p. 31.

19. Men’s Wear, 25 December 1926, p. 411.

20. M.-O. A., D.R. 1457 reply to May 1939 directive.

21. M.-O. A., D.R. 210 reply to July 1939 directive.

22. Miss Modern, January 1936, p. 31.

23. Massey, ‘Expenditure’, p. 175.

24. M.-O. A., D.R. 1077 reply to April 1939 directive.

25. R.P. Weston and B. Lee, Brahn Boots (1910).

26. J. Jensen, H.M. Bateman. The Man Who … and other drawings (Methuen, 1975), p. 46.

27. Punch, 19 April 1922, p. 307.

28. Punch, 10 July 1929, p. 56.29.

29. M.-O. A., D.R. 1324 reply to May 1939 directive.

30. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 278.

31. Interview with Mrs T.R.

32. Interview with Mrs T.C.

33. Interview with Mrs T.R.

34. J. Grove, ‘Victorian Respectability and the Etiquette of Dress’, Strata of Society, Costume Society Conference, Norwich (1973), p. 18.

35. N. Leyland and J. Troughton, Glovemaking in West Oxfordshire (Oxford, Oxford City and County Museum, 1974), p. 19.

36. Rose Harrison, Rose. My Life in Service (Cassell, 1979), p. 65.

37. Girls’ Favourite, 1 July 1922, p. 516.

38. L. Bentley, Educating Women. A Pictorial History of Bedford College University of London 1849–1985 (St Albans, Alma/RHUL, 1991), p. 53.

39. Forester, Success Through Dress, p. 156.

40. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/2/F.

41. Grove, ‘Victorian Respectability’, p. 18.

42. Girls’ Favourite, 1 July 1922, p. 516.

43. Harrop, Merchant Taylors’, p. 102.

44. C.C. Collins, Love of A Glove (New York, Fairchild, 1947), p. 79.

45. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C/40.

46. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/2/F.

47. V. Cumming, Gloves (Batsford, 1982), p. 82.

48. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C/40.

49. M.-O. A., D.R. 1299 reply to May 1939 directive.

50. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/1/C/40.

51. E. Bland, ‘With Hat and Gloves. A Career in Retailing’, Costume 24 (1990), p. 116.

52. P. Corfield, ‘Dress for Deference and Dissent: Hats and the Decline of Hat Honour’, Costume 23 (1989), p. 64.

53. G.R.M. Devereux, Etiquette for men. A book of modern manners and customs (Arthur Pearson, 1902, repr. 1937), pp. 14–15.

54. The Times, 30 November 1934.

55. The Times, 12 December 1934.

56. The Times, 20 April 1929.

57. Hatter’s Gazette, June 1934, p. 238; 15 April 1924, p. 188.

58. Hatter’s Gazette, 1 February 1919, p. 59.

59. Hatter’s Gazette, March 1934, p. 122.

60. J.G. Dony, The History of the Straw Hat Industry (Luton, Gibbs, Bamforth, 1947), p. 179.

61. The Times, 11 January 1934.

62. Hatter’s Gazette, 5 September 1924, p. 429.

63. Punch, 11 March 1925, p. 264.

64. Hat Works, Stockport Museum of Hatting Archive, The Wideawake, March 1934, p. 2.

65. Hatter’s Gazette, March 1934, p. 114.

66. Hatter’s Gazette, December 1934, p. 540.

67. Men’s Wear, 11 July 1936, p. 5; 29 August 1936, pp. 8–9.

68. Punch, 31 May 1922, p. 422.

69. Hat Works, Manchester Evening Chronicle, 20 July 1938, reprinted in The Wideawake, Autumn 1938, p. 3.

70. Men’s Wear Organiser, February 1931, p. 92.

71. Luton Museum Services, LTNMG 1980/27/9; Luton News, 15 June 1935.

72. Hatter’s Gazette, May 1939, pp. 176–7.

73. M.-O. A., D.Rs. 1141, 1151, 1285, 1324 and 1416 replies to April 1939 directive.

74. Hatter’s Gazette, January 1939, p. 28; February 1939, p. 57.

75. Hatter’s Gazette, July 1939, p. 63.

76. Luton Museum Services, LTNMG 1980/27/9; Luton News, 18 March 1926.

77. Forester, Success Through Dress, pp. 113–14.

78. Interview with Mrs T.R.

79. Bentley, Educating Women, p. 53.

80. Grove, ‘Victorian Respectability’, p. 18.

81. M.-O. A., D.R. 1044 reply to May 1939 directive.

82. M.-O. A., T.C. 18/5.

83. Daily Mail, 8 May 1939.

84. Luton Museum Services, Oral History Archive, Doris Green; see also Violet Vernon.

85. Bland, ‘With Hat and Gloves’, pp. 111–16.

8. Radicals, Bohemians and Dandies

1. E. Waugh, Brideshead Revisited (Chapman & Hall, 1945), p. 34.

2. Waugh, Brideshead Revisited.

3. S. Cole, ‘Don we now our gay apparel’: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century (Oxford, Berg, 2000), p. 17.

4. S.M. Newton, Health, art and reason: dress reformers of the 19th century (John Murray, 1974).

5. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 156.

6. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 120.

7. D. Crane, ‘Clothing Behavior as Non-Verbal Resistance: Marginal Women and Alternative Dress in the Nineteenth Century’, Fashion Theory 3, 2 (1999), p. 248.

8. J.B. Paoletti, ‘Ridicule and Role Models as Factors in American Men’s Fashion Change, 1880–1910’, Costume 19 (1985), pp. 121–34.

9. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 139.

10. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 157.

11. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 155.

12. Crane, ‘Clothing Behavior’, p. 261.

13. K. Rolley, ‘Fashion, Femininity and the Fight for the Vote’, Art History 13, 1 (1990), p. 3.

14. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams.

15. M. Easton, ‘Dorelia’s Wardrobe: “There goes an Augustus John!”’, Costume 8 (1974), pp. 30–4.

16. J. Laver, Dandies (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1968), p. 105.

17. B. Melman, Women in the popular imagination in the Twenties. Flappers and nymphs (Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1988), p. 145.

18. S. Zdatny, ‘The Boyish Look and the Liberated Woman: The Politics and Aesthetics of Women’s Hairstyles’, Fashion Theory 1, 4 (1997), p. 38.

19. Daily Mail, 19 April 1927.

20. P. Nystrom, Economics of Fashion (New York, Ronald, 1928), pp. 498–9.

21. B. Cartland, We Danced All Night (Hutchinson, 1970), pp. 105–6.

22. Cartland, We Danced All Night, pp. 105–6.

23. D.L. Moore, Pandora’s Letter Box: being a discourse on fashionable life, etc. (Gerald Howe, 1929), p. 94.

24. N. Nicolson, Portrait of a Marriage (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1973, repr. 1990), p. 110.

25. M. Costantino, Men’s fashion in the twentieth century. From frock coats to intelligent fibres (New York, Costume & Fashion Press, 1997), pp. 36–7; H. Acton, Memoirs of an Aesthete (Methuen, 1948, repr. Hamilton, 1984), p. 119.

26. Acton, Memoirs, p. 119.

27. Daily Mail, 17 June 1925.

28. A. Adburgham, A Punch History of Manners and Modes (Hutchinson, 1961), p. 325.

29. The Times, 4 September 1935.

30. M.-O. A., D.R. 1403 reply to July 1939 directive.

31. J. Betjeman, Betjeman’s Oxford (Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1990), p. 38.

32. Graves and Hodge, Long Weekend, p. 124.

33. H. Vickers, Cecil Beaton. The authorised biography (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1985), p. 86.

34. N. Mitford, Love in a Cold Climate (Hamish Hamilton, 1949), p. 184.

35. Acton, Memoirs, p. 2.

36. Cole, ‘Don We Now’, p. 19.

37. Cole, ‘Don We Now’.

38. M.-O. A., D.R. 1456 reply to May 1939 directive.

39. M.-O. A., D.R. 1465 reply to May 1939 directive.

40. C. Beaton, The Wandering Years. Diaries 1922–1939 (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1961), p. 187.

41. M.-O. A., D.R. 1122 reply to April 1939 directive.

42. M.-O. A., D.R. 1359 reply to May 1939 directive.

43. Q. Crisp, The Naked Civil Servant (Cape, 1968), pp. 26–7.

44. N. Cohn, Today there are no Gentlemen. The changes in Englishmen’s clothes since the War (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1971), p. 8.

45. E. Kelen, Peace in their Time. Men who led us in and out of war, 1914–1945 (Victor Gollancz, 1964), p. 337.

46. D. Dutton, Anthony Eden. A Life and Reputation (Arnold, 1997), p. 463.

47. Man and His Clothes, January 1927, p. 7.

48. Elias, Straw Hats, p. 137.

49. Windsor, Family Album, p. 105.

50. Windsor, Family Album, p. 13.

51. Windsor, Family Album, p. 114.

52. Windsor, Family Album.

53. E. Wilson, Bohemians. The Glamorous Outcasts (I.B. Tauris, 2000), pp. 64–5.

54. M.-O. A., D.R. 1299 reply to May 1939 directive.

55. Punch, 31 May 1922, p. 423.

56. E. Mannin, Young in the Twenties. A Chapter of Autobiography (Hutchinson, 1971), p. 31.

57. Punch, 8 February 1922, p. 113.

58. Punch, 15 May 1929, p. 546.

59. Punch, 17 March 1937, p. 299.

60. A. Calder-Marshall, The Magic of my Youth (Hart-Davis, 1951), p. 24.

61. M.-O. A., D.R. 1040 reply to May 1939 directive.

62. M.-O. A., D.R. 1291 reply to May 1939 directive.

63. Punch, 6 January 1937.

64. M.-O. A., D.R. 1090 reply to April 1939 directive.

65. M.-O. A., D.R. 1291 reply to May 1939 directive.

66. ‘The Intellectual Aristocracy’, reprinted in N. Annan, The Dons. Mentors, Eccentrics and Geniuses (Harper Collins, 1999), pp. 304–41.

67. V. Nicholson, Among the Bohemians. Experiments in Living 1900–1939 (Viking, 2002), p. 162.

68. F. Spalding, Gwen Raverat. Friends, Family and Affections (Harvill Press, 2001), p. 353.

69. E. Wilson, ‘Bohemian Dress and the Heroism of Everyday Life’, Fashion Theory 2, 3 (1998), pp. 169–70; E. Salter, Edith Sitwell (Oresko, 1979), p. 55.

70. Salter, Sitwell, pp. 38 and 59.

71. M.-O. A., D.R. 1470.1 reply to July 1939 directive.

72. Burman, ‘Men’s Dress Reform Party’, p. 85.

73. Burman, ‘Men’s Dress Reform Party’; Horwood, ‘Anyone for Tennis?’.

74. M.-O. A., D.R. 1361 reply to July 1939 directive.

75. Burman, ‘Men’s Dress Reform Party’; J. Bourke, ‘The Great Male Renunciation: Men’s Dress Reform in Inter-war Britain’, Journal of Design History 9, 1 (1996), pp. 23–33.

76. Men’s Wear, Special Shipping Number, June 1920, p. 59.

77. Men’s Wear, 2 April 1927, p. 16.

78. E. Gill, Clothes (Cape, 1931), p. 49.

79. M.-O. A., D.R. 1210 reply to July 1939 directive.

80. R. Skidelsky, Oswald Mosley (Macmillan, 1975), pp. 292–3.

81. O. Mosley, My Life (Nelson, 1968), pp. 302–3.

82. S. Taylor, The Great Outsiders. Northcliffe, Rothermere and the Daily Mail (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1996), pp. 282–3.

83. Taylor, Great Outsiders.

84. Skidelsky, Mosley, p. 163.

85. E. Wilkinson, Peeps at Politicians (P. Allen, 1930), p. 38.

86. Newton, Health, art and reason, p. 157.

87. J. Parker, Father of the House. Fifty years in politics (Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1982), p. 31.

88. Punch, 25 September 1929, p. 341.

89. Moore, Pandora’s Letter Box, p. 92.

90. Beaton, Wandering Years, p. 187.

91. M.-O. A., D.R. 1210 reply to April 1939 directive.

92. G. Orwell, The Road to Wigan Pier (Victor Gollancz, 1937, repr. Penguin, 1989), p. 162.