| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
| Z |
Abbeys: Cluny, 921, 922–923; Fontenay, 902–904; Fontevraud, 440–442; Jumièges, 238–239; Mont St-Michel, 318–323; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 689; St. Georges de Boscherville, 238
Acccommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Aiguille du Dru (Alps): 832
Aiguille du Midi Gondola (Alps): 816, 822, 824, 827–831, 837
Airborne Museum (Utah Beach): 303–304
Airlines (airfares): 25, 1155–1156
Airports: Geneva, 801, 818, 853–854; Lyon, 931; Nice, 740–741; Paris, 161–168; Strasbourg, 1022–1023
Aître St. Maclou (Rouen): 236
À l’Aise Breizh (Dinan): 337
Albert I Park (Nice): 714
Albert II, Prince of Monaco: 764, 771
Albert Schweitzer Museum (Kaysersberg): 1012
Albi: 525–536; eating, 535; helpful hints, 527; map, 526; sights/activities, 527–534; sleeping, 534–535; tourist information, 525; transportation, 525, 527, 535–536
Alésia MuséoParc (Alise-Ste-Reine): 899–900
Alise Ste-Reine: 899–900, 904, 906
All the Light We Cannot See (Doerr): 346, 1163
Almanac: 1073
Alpine Museum (Chamonix): 845–846
Alps (Alpes-Savoie): 16, 797–854; cuisine, 799; geology, 834–835; map, 798; planning tips, 797–799; transportation, 799. See also Annecy; Chamonix
Alsace: 16, 964–1031; cuisine, 967; map, 965; planning tips, 966; transportation, 966. See also specific destinations
Alsatian folk dancing and music: 987, 1029
Alsatian half-timbered houses: 976, 977, 1014, 1018
Alsatian Museum (Strasbourg): 1027
Alsatian wines: 967–968, 992–1002; about, 996–997; Colmar, 969, 970, 987; Eguisheim, 1006; Kaysersberg, 1012; map, 994; Riquewihr, 1014–1016; Route du Vin, 992–1002; tours, 996–998
Amboise: 362, 371–395; eating, 390–391; helpful hints, 372–373; maps, 374–375, 392–393; self-guided walk, 376–378; sights/activities, 378–385; sleeping, 385–389; tourist information, 372; transportation, 372, 392–395
Amboise City Hall Museum: 377
Amboise Clock Tower: 377
Amboise Royal Castle (Château): 367, 378–379, 381
American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 289–292
American Cemetery and Memorial (Thiaucourt): 1071
American Church (Paris): 124
American Hospital (Paris): 38
Amphithéâtre (Arles): 592–594
Amsterdam: train travel, 174
Angoville-au-Plain Church: 301
Annecy: 800–816; eating, 814–815; helpful hints, 801–805; map, 802–803; nightlife, 815; sights/activities, 805–812; sleeping, 812–814; tourist information, 800; transportation, 801, 815–816
Annecy Château Museum: 806
Annecy, Lake: 800, 803–804, 806–810; beaches, 807–808; cruises, 808; map, 809
Antibes: 693, 694, 776–790; eating, 788–790; helpful hints, 780–781; map, 778–779; self-guided walk, 781–783; sights/activities, 784–787; sleeping, 787–788; tourist information, 777; transportation, 777, 780, 790
Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 783, 785
Antibes Market Hall: 780, 782–783
Anybody’s Tombstone (Dinan): 336
Aosta, Italy: 846–847
Apartment rentals: 1102–1105, 1108; Paris, 142
Apps: 28; navigation, 1092, 1147; Paris, 38; sightseeing, 1094
Apt: market, 584
Aquarium, in Monaco: 772
Aqueduct (Pont du Gard): 640–644
“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 661
Arc de Triomphe (Paris): 57, 105–106, 125
Archaeological museums: Alise Ste-Reine, 899–900; Antibes, 783, 785; Arles, 602–604; Cluny, 923–924; Colmar, 983–984; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 489, 492–493; Lyon, 941–943; Nice, 723; Paris, 66, 98–99; Pont du Gard, 643; Strasbourg, 1026
Archaeological sites: See Cro-Magnon caves; Roman sites
Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 601
Arles: 576, 584–615; eating, 609–614; helpful hints, 586–587; maps, 588–589, 605, 610–611; planning tips, 585; self-guided walk, 587–601; sights/activities, 601–608; sleeping, 608–609; tourist information, 585; transportation, 585–586, 587, 614–615
Arles Ancient History Museum: 602–604
Arles Roman Arena: 592–594
Arles Roman Theater: 595
Army Museum (Paris): 56–57, 96
Arpentis Château: 388–389
Arromanches: 280–286; map, 281
Art: history timeline, 1076–1077; of the Riviera, 701. See also Cro-Magnon caves; Impressionism; and specific artists
Art museums: general tips, 1094–1095. See also specific art museums
Atelier de la Soierie (Lyon): 948–949
Athenaeum (Beaune): 862
Atlantic Wall: 288, 289, 302, 350
ATMs: 1086–1090. See also specific destinations
Attitude, French: 30
Aude River: 550
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 38, 1157
Autoire: 510
Auzou (Rouen): 228–229
Avenue de la République (Beaune): 872–874
Avenue Jean Médecin (Nice): 716
Avignon: 576, 615–640; eating, 635–639; helpful hints, 617, 620; maps, 618–619, 632–633; self-guided walk, 621–629; sights/activities, 629–630; sleeping, 630–635; tourist information, 616; tours, 621; transportation, 616–617, 639–640
Avignon City Hall: 622
Avignon Festival: 615, 617, 1160
Avignon Market Hall: 621, 628, 638
Avignon Ramparts: 624
Avignon Synagogue: 627–628
Avignon Waterwheel: 629
Aÿ: 1054–1055
Azay-le-Rideau: 363–364, 432–436; eating, 435–436; sleeping, 434–435; tourist information, 433
Azay-le-Rideau Château: 367, 432–434
Baeckeoffe: 967
Baie des Anges (Nice): 712–713
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 28. See also Money
Barrage Vauban (Strasbourg): 1028
Bartholdi, Frédéric-Auguste: 948, 973, 976; Museum (Colmar), 978, 985–987
Basilica of Ste. Madeleine (Vézelay): 908–911
Basse Corniche: 753–754
Bastides: 536–538
Bastille Opera (Paris): 124
Bateaux-Mouches (Paris): 51
Bateaux Parisiens (Paris): 51
Baths of Constantine (Arles): 602
Batobus (Paris): 51–52
Battle of Hastings: overview, 264
Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 267–268
Baubigny: 891
Bayeux: 220, 257–272; eating, 270–271; helpful hints, 259; map, 260–261; sights, 262–268; sleeping, 268–270; tourist information, 258; tours, 262; transportation, 258–259, 271–272
Bayeux Cathedral: 264–265
Bayeux Tapestry: 262–264
Bay of Angels (Nice): 712–713
Bay of Mont St-Michel: 310, 316
“Bayonet Trench” (Verdun): 1070
Beaches: Annecy, 807–808; Antibes, 781–782, 785; Cap Ferrat, 757–758; Cap Fréhel, 357; Collioure, 562, 564–565, 566; Dinard, 352; Dunes de Chevrêts, 358; Etrétat, 252; Nice, 703, 707–708, 714–715; Paris, 74; Pont du Gard, 642; St-Malo, 346. See also D-Day beaches
Beaulieu-sur-Mer: 758–759
Beaune: 860–881, 891; eating, 878–881; helpful hints, 861–862; maps, 864–865, 876–877; shopping, 862; sights/activities, 866–874; sleeping, 874–878; tourist information, 860–861; tours, 862–863, 866; transportation, 861, 881
Beaune Ramparts: 873–874
Beaune region: 882–897; maps, 890, 893; north vineyard loop, 892–895; south vineyard loop, 889–892
Beauvais Airport (Paris): 167–168
Bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes): 1101; Paris, 142. See also specific destinations
“Bedford Boys”: 295
Beer: about, 1127
Belvès: market, 453
Bennwihr: 1000
Berthillon (Paris): 158
Beverages: 1124–1128. See also Wine and vineyards
Beynac: 468, 470, 476–482; eating, 479; market, 452, 477; sleeping, 478–479
Beynac Château: 477–478
Bibliothèque Carnegie (Reims): 1041, 1047
Big Red One Museum (Colleville-sur-Mer): 289
Biking (bike rentals): 1155; Tour de France, 1160; Alsace, 998, 1001, 1003, 1009, 1012–1013; Amboise, 373, 384; Annecy, 803–804, 809–810; Antibes, 780; Arles, 586–587; Avignon, 620; Bayeux, 259, 262; Beaune, 863, 866, 882, 892; Blois, 403, 407–408; Burgundy, 882, 892, 894; Carcassonne, 541; Chambord, 411; Chamonix, 822; Chinon, 421, 428; Colmar, 970–971; Dinan, 334; Dordogne, 447; Eguisheim, 1003; Giverny, 210; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 681; Kaysersberg, 1009, 1012–1013; Loire Valley, 368–369, 384, 403, 407–408, 411, 421, 428; Luberon, 681; Lyon, 935–936; Nice, 707; Normandy, 274; Paris, 48–49, 54–55; Provence, 578, 586–587, 620, 652, 665, 669–670; Rance River Valley, 341; Reims, 1037; Ribeauvillé, 1001; St-Emilion, 506; St-Malo, 349; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 578, 652; Sarlat, 454, 456; Strasbourg, 1023; Vaison-la-Romaine, 665, 669–670; Versailles, 192; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 744–745
Bléré: sleeping, 389
Blois: 362, 401–410; map, 404–405
Blois Royal Castle (Château): 366, 403–406
Blues clubs, in Paris: 122–123
Boat cruises: Annecy, 808; Avignon, 620; Beynac, 478; Carcassonne, 550–551; Chinon, 422; Colmar, 971; Dinan, 341; Dinard, 352; Honfleur, 252; La Roque-Gageac, 474; Lyon, 937; Nice, 709–710, 739, 741–742; Paris, 50–52, 124, 176–177; Riviera, 700, 709–710, 739, 741–742, 752, 775–776; Strasbourg, 1028–1029; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 749
Boating: hotel barges, overview, 1108; Annecy, 803–804, 808; Antibes, 781; Chenonceaux, 397; Collioure, 566; Lyon, 935; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 749. See also Canoeing
Bonaparte Bridge (Lyon): 934, 937–938
Bonaparte, Napoleon: See Napoleon Bonaparte
Bon Marché (Paris): 121
Bonnieux: 690–691
Books, recommended: 1161–1163
Bordeaux: 505–508
Boudin, Eugène: 244, 246–247; biographical sketch, 249; Museum (Honfleur), 248–250
Boules: 127, 351, 473, 607–608, 745, 791; about, 580
Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 951
Boulevard Malesherbes (Paris): 121
Bourges Cathedral: 915–917
Bourges Medieval Quarter: 913, 917
Bouzy: 1054
Braille, Louis: 102
Brancion: 919–920
Brasserie Bofinger (Paris): 154
Brayer (Yves) Museum (Les Baux): 649
Breakfast: overview, 1110–1111
British Military Cemetery (Bayeux): 268
Brittany: 15, 329–360; cuisine, 331–332; map, 330; planning tips, 330; transportation, 330–331. See also specific destinations
Bruniquel: 537
Brussels: train travel, 174
Budgeting: 25
Budget tips: See Money-saving tips
Bullgames, in Arles: 607
Burgundy: 16, 855–926; at a glance, 856; cuisine, 858; maps, 857, 905; planning tips, 856–857; transportation, 857, 882–883. See also specific destinations
Burgundy Canal: 898
Burgundy wines: 858–859, 872–873, 882–897; Beaune, 862, 872–874, 879; maps, 890, 893; museums, in Beaune, 870, 871; savoring tactics, 1124–1125; shipping home, 872–873; tours, 862–863, 866, 883; transportation, 882–883
Buses (bus travel): 1142–1143; best three-week trip, 22–23; Paris, 43–47, 130, 135, 175–176; airports, 163–164, 168; scenic routes, 44–45, 46; tours, 49–50, 125–126. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 1086
Butterfly Exhibit (Hunawihr): 1000
Cabs: See Taxis
Caen: 306–309
Caen Memorial Museum: 306–309
Café de la Mairie (Paris): 122
Café de la Paix (Paris): 110
Café la Nuit (Arles): 600–601
Cafés (brasseries): 1115–1118; tipping, 1090–1091. See also specific destinations
Calvados: 221, 245, 259, 292, 296
Calvet Museum (Avignon): 629–630
Camargue Museum: 606
Camargue, the: 604–606; map, 605
Campervan rentals: 1146
Camping (campgrounds): overview, 1109
Canadian Cemetery (Juno Beach): 306
Canadian D-Day sites: 304–306
Canal de Bourgogne: 898
Canal du Midi (Carcassonne): 550–551
Canauxrama (Paris): 51
Cancale: 358–359
Candes-St-Martin: 428
Cannes Film Festival: 695, 726, 1160
Canoeing: Annecy, 803, 808; Chinon, 421, 428; Collioure, 566; Dinan, 334; Dordogne River, 447–448, 468–471; Loire River, 384, 421, 428; Pont du Gard, 642
Cap d’Ail: 765
Cap d’Antibes: 781, 783, 786–787
Cap Ferrat: 754–759; cruises, 709–710, 749; map, 756
Cap Fréhel: 357
Carcassonne: 538–556; eating, 555–556; helpful hints, 541, 544; maps, 542–543, 545, 558; nightlife, 552; self-guided walk, 544–549; sights/activities, 549–551; sleeping, 551–554; tourist information, 540; transportation, 540–541, 556
Carcassonne Walls: 546–547, 549
Carennac: 508–509
Car insurance: 1145–1146
Car leasing: 1146
Carnavalet Museum (Paris): 112
Carnegie Library (Reims): 1041, 1047
Car rentals: 25, 1144–1145; Paris, 166. See also specific destinations
Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 650
Car travel (driving): 1148–1155; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 1149; driving tips, 1153–1155; navigation options, 1147; Paris, 176; road signs, 1148, 1150–1151. See also specific destinations
Casinos: Chamonix, 826; Monte Carlo, 773–774; Nice, 713–714
Castelnau-Bretenoux Château: 509–510
Castelnaud: 468, 469–470, 475–476; sleeping, 476
Castelnaud Château: 475–476
Castelnau-de-Montmiral: 538
Castle Hill (Nice): 707, 710, 713, 715, 724–725
Castles: See Châteaux
Catacombs of Paris: 103–104
Cathars: overview, 529
Cathédrale de Monaco: 771–772
Cathédrale Notre-Dame: See Notre-Dame Cathedral
Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 710, 724
Caunes-Minervois: sleeping, 554
Caussade: 536
Cavaillon: market, 584
Cavaillon melons: 584
Cave art: See Cro-Magnon caves
Caveau de Puligny-Montrachet: 884, 891
Caveau des Vignerons (Amboise): 384
Caveau des Vignerons (Morey-St-Denis): 897
Caves Painctes (Chinon): 425–426
Caves Plouzeau (Chinon): 425
Caves Voltaire (Chinon): 425
Cell (mobile) phones: 1128–1130. See also Apps
Centre de Réintroduction (Hunawihr): 1000
Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Lyon): 952–953
Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 206
Centre Pompidou (Paris): 57, 114–115; sleeping near, 139
Ceramics, Museum of (Rouen): 237–238
Céret: 570
Cernay: 999
Cézanne, Paul: 88, 106, 112, 629, 949
Chagall, Marc: 565, 570, 701, 1045; gravesite, in St-Paul-de-Vence, 791; Museum (Nice), 710, 720–722
Chalet de la Floria (Alps): 841
Chambolle-Musigny: 896
Chambord Château: 366, 411–415
Chamonix: 816–854; at a glance, 836; eating, 850–853; helpful hints, 818–819; hiking, 834–844; history of, 818; maps, 820–821, 823, 828, 838–839; planning tips, 816; self-guided walk, 824–827; sights/activities, 824–846; sleeping, 847–850; tourist information, 817; transportation, 817–818, 819–823, 853–854
Chamonix City Hall: 825
Chamonix Protestant Church: 826–827
Champagne: 1032, 1049–1057, 1127; about, 1053
Champagne G. Tribaut (Hautvillers): 1056
Champagne Herbert Beaufort (Bouzy): 1054
Champagne region: 1032–1060; cuisine, 1033; maps, 1034–1035, 1055; planning tips, 1032; tours, 1049; transportation, 1032–1033
Champ de Mars (Paris): 94, 131
Champlain, Samuel de: 241
Champs-Elysées (Paris): 35, 56, 104–105, 125; map, 106–107
Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 768, 771
Chapaize: 920
Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 747
Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 794
Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe (Antibes): 786
Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 649
Chapel of St. Leo IX (Eguisheim): 1005–1006
Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 747
Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 794
Charlemagne: 232, 515, 539, 1046, 1072, 1082
Charles de Cazanove (Reims): 1050
Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris): 161–166, 168; map, 162; sleeping, 141–142
Chartres: 198–208; eating, 207–208; map, 200–201; sight, 199–206; sleeping, 206–207; tourist information, 199
Chartres Cathedral: 198, 199–205; map, 203
Chassagne-Montrachet: 891
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: 898–899, 906
Châteaux (castles): architecture, 1079; history, 382–383; Amboise, 367, 378–379, 381; Annecy, 806, 813–814; Arpentis, 388–389; Azay-le-Rideau, 367, 432–434; Beynac, 477–478; Blois, 366, 403–406; Castelnau-Bretenoux, 509–510; Castelnaud, 475–476; Chambord, 366, 411–415; Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, 898–899; Chaumont-sur-Loire, 366, 417–420; Chenonceau, 366, 395–400; Cheverny, 366, 415–417; Chinon, 424–425; Clos de Vougeot, 896; Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 367, 379–381; Collioure, 565; Commarque, 496–497; Comtal (Carcassonne), 548–550; Eza, 761; Fayrac, 470; Grimaldi (Antibes), 783; Guédelon, 911–913; Hautes Corbières, 557–559; Haut-Kœnigsbourg, 1001–1002; Husseren Les Cinq, 1006; La Fleunie, 500; Langeais, 367, 436–438; La Rochepot, 885–886, 891; Lastours, 560; Montfort, 467, 472; Nazelles, 389; Perreux, 388; Peyrepertuse, 557, 559; Pray, 388, 391; Quéribus, 557, 559; Rivau, 428; Rocamadour, 513; Savigny, 894; Ussé, 428; Villandry, 367, 438–440; Villeneuve (Vence), 793–794. See also Versailles Château
Chaumont-sur-Loire Château: 366, 417–420
Cheeses: 154, 221, 222, 370, 451, 584, 799, 858, 928, 1033, 1122–1123
Chemin de la Croix (Rocamadour): 511, 513, 514, 516
Chemin des Fontaines (St-Cirq Lapopie): 669
Chemin du Fauvisme (Collioure): 565
Chemins de Fer de Provence: 725
Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 871
Chénas: 962
Chenonceau Château: 366, 395–400
Cher River: 368, 395; canoeing, 384
Cheverny Château: 366, 415–417
Children, travel tips: 1106–1107
Chinon: 362, 421–432; eating, 431; helpful hints, 421–422; maps, 426–427, 434–435; self-guided walk, 422–424; sights/activities, 424–429; sleeping, 429–430; tourist information, 421; transportation, 432
Chinon Château: 424–425
Chinon Town Museum: 423
Chiroubles: 962
Chisseaux: eating, 401
Chocolat (movie): 474, 900, 902, 1163
Chocolate: 121, 228, 377, 598, 717, 883, 902, 1123
Christmas markets: 800, 968; Strasbourg, 1029
Churches (eglises): architecture, 1078. See also specific churches
Church of the Holy Cross (Kaysersberg): 1010–1011
Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 783
Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris): 57, 115–116
Citadelle Souterraine (Verdun): 1062
Classical theaters: See Théâtre Antique
Clos de Vougeot Château: 896
Clos-Lucé Château (Amboise): 367, 379–381
Clothing sizes: 1166
Cluny: 921–924
Cluny Museum (Paris): 57, 98–99
Cluny Museum of Art and Archaeology: 923–924
Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 747
Coffee: 1126–1127
Col de Balme: 844
Col de Banyuls: 570
Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 677
Col de la Forclaz: 812
Collection Lambert (Avignon): 630
Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune): 870
Colline du Château (Nice): 707, 710, 713, 715, 724–725
Collioure: 562–573; eating, 572–573; helpful hints, 563–564; map, 568–569; sights/activities, 564–570; sleeping, 570–572; tourist information, 563; transportation, 563, 573
Collioure Royal Castle (Château): 565
Colmar: 968–992; eating, 989–991; helpful hints, 970–971; map, 974–975; nightlife, 987–988; self-guided walk, 972–980; sights/activities, 980–987; sleeping, 988–989; tourist information, 969; tours, 971; transportation, 969–970, 992
Colmar Dominican Church: 979, 984–985
“Colmar Pocket” Museum (Turckheim): 1000
Commarque Château: 496–497
Comtal Château (Carcassonne): 548–550
Conciergerie (Paris): 72–73
Concoeur: 895
Condat-sur-Vézère: sleeping, 500
Confit de canard: 370, 450, 451–452, 1121
Confluence (Lyon): 951–952
Connery, Sean: 710
Conservatoire de Dentelles (Bayeux): 266
Constant, Christian: 150–151
Consulates: 1085–1086
Cooking classes: Carcassonne, 544; Nice, 711; Paris, 148–149; Sarlat, 456; Vaison-la-Romaine, 665
Cordes-sur-Ciel: 536–537
Costs of trip: 25
Côte d’Azur: See Riviera; and specific destinations
Côte de Grâce (Honfleur): 251
Côte d’Emeraude: 355–359
Côtes du Rhône: 662–679
Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 576, 673–679; guided tours, 578–579; map, 674
Courses camarguaises, in Arles: 607
Courseulles-sur-Mer: 305–306
Cours Jean Jaurès (Avignon): 615
Cours Saleya (Nice): 707, 714, 717–718, 731, 734
Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 772
Crayon (Lyon): 941
Créancey: 906
Crêpes: about, 1113–1114
Crépon: sleeping, 285
Crockpots (baeckeoffe), about: 967
Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 930, 938, 950–951
Cro-Magnon caves: 445, 482–503; at a glance, 488–489; guided tours, 448–449, 491; helpful hints, 491; map, 484–485; overview, 482–483, 486–490; planning tips, 490–491; reservations, 491
Cruise ships, on the Riviera: 741–742, 752, 775–776. See also Boat cruises
Cryptoporticos (Arles): 596
Cryptoportique (Reims): 1047–1048
Crystal Museum (Chamonix): 846
Cuisine: 7–8, 1119–1123; Alsace, 967; Brittany, 331–332; Burgundy, 858; Champagne region, 1033; Dordogne, 450–453; Languedoc-Roussillon, 524; Loire Valley, 370; Lyon, 928, 956–957; Normandy, 221, 222, 326; picnics, 1111–1114; Provence, 583–584; Reims, 1033; Riviera, 701–702; Savoie, 799; to-go foods, 1113–1115
Curie, Marie: 102
Currency and exchange: 1086–1090
Customs House (Colmar): 972–973
Customs regulations: 1092
Cycling: See Biking
Daladier Bridge (Avignon): 620
Dalí (Salvador) Theater-Museum (Figueres): 570
Daumier, Honoré: 85
Da Vinci Code: 909
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 79–80, 371, 377, 379–381, 383; Mona Lisa, 80
D-Day beaches (Normandy): 220, 272–306; American sites, 286–304; Canadian sites, 304–306; helpful hints, 278–280; history timeline, 278–279; map, 274–275; planning tips, 273–274; tours, 275–278; transportation, 274–275
D-Day Experience (Utah Beach): 304
D-Day Landing Museum (Arromanches): 283–284
Dead Man’s Corner (Utah Beach): 304
Degas, Edgar: 87, 98, 106, 237, 629
De Gaulle Airport (Paris): See Charles de Gaulle Airport
De Gaulle, Charles: 57, 96, 105, 266, 267, 306, 309, 1083
Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 86–87
Delacroix, Eugène: 81–82, 99, 237, 267
Dentelles de Montmirail: 677
Department stores, in Paris: 119–120
Deportation Memorial (Paris): 66–67
Dietary restrictions: 1117
Digne: 725
Dinan: 332–345; eating, 344–345; helpful hints, 333–335; map, 334–335; self-guided walk, 335–339; sights/activities, 340–342; sleeping, 342–344; tourist information, 333; transportation, 333, 345
Dinan Clock Tower: 337
Dinan Ramparts: 338–339
Dinard: 352
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Disneyland Paris: 214–216
Dizy: 1054–1055
Dolder Museum (Riquewihr): 1016
Domaine Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton): 887, 894
Domaine de Balme (Alps): 843, 844
Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 678
Domaine de la Chevalerie (Chinon): 428
Domaine de la Giraudière (Villandry): 436, 440
Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 180, 181, 184, 193–196; map, 195
Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 676
Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): 999
Domaine Lejeune (Pommard): 883
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand (Magny-les-Villers): 888, 894
Domaines d’Aloxe-Corton: 887, 894
Dominican Church (Colmar): 979, 984–985
Domme: 468, 472–473; market, 453, 472
Dordogne: 15, 444–521; at a glance, 445; cuisine, 450–453; home base, 446; maps, 448, 509; markets, 452–453; planning tips, 444–446; tours, 448–449; transportation, 447–448. See also specific destinations
Dordogne River: 444, 466; canoeing, 447–448, 468–471; cruises, 474, 478; map, 470–471
Dordogne River Valley: 466–482
Douaumont Ossuary (Verdun): 1068–1070
Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations
Ducal Palace (Nice): 718
Duclair: 238
Duingt: 810
Dumas, Alexandre: 102
Dunes de Chevrêts: 358
Eastern Dordogne: 508–517; map, 509
Eating: 1109–1123; budget tips, 26; with children, 1106–1107; ordering tips, 1118–1119; restaurant phrases, 1174; restaurant pricing, 1110; tipping, 1090–1091, 1116. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations
Eglise de Carsac: 467
Eglise des Dominicains (Colmar): 979, 984–985
Eglise Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 228
Eglise St-Jacques (Nice): 719
Eglise St-Pierre (Mont St-Michel): 317–318
Eglise Ste. Catherine (Honfleur): 247–248
Egouts de Paris: 95
Eguisheim: 999, 1002–1008; map, 1004–1005
Eguisheim Castle: 1005–1006
Eiffel Tower (Paris): 56, 91–94, 125; eating, 92, 148–149; reservations, 27, 91–93
Eiffel Tower neighborhood (Paris): 35, 91–96; eating, 148–160; map, 92
Eleanor of Aquitaine: 421, 424–425, 441, 915, 1072, 1074, 1082
Electricity: 1086
Elevage du Bouyssou (Sarlat): 480–482
Embassies: 1085–1086
Emerald Coast: 355–359
Englesqueville la Percée: 296
Entrevaux: 725
Epernay: 1056–1057
Equestrian Performance Academy (Versailles): 181
Espace Alpinisme (Chamonix): 846
Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 846
Espace Van Gogh Easel (Arles): 598
Etang de Vaccarès: 606
Etrétat: 252–253
Euro currency: 1086–1089
Exchange rate: 1087
Eza Château: 761
Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 759–762
Eze Church: 762
Eze-le-Village: 759–762
Fashion, in Paris: 121–122
Fauchon (Paris): 120
Fayencerie Augy (Rouen): 234–235
Fayrac Château: 470
Festivals: 1159–1161. See also specific festivals
Figueres: 570
Films, recommended: 1163–1165
Flag, French: 1073
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: 900–902, 906
Fleurie: 962–963
Fleury: 1068
Flower markets: Nice, 717–718; Paris, 72
Foie gras: 450, 451, 459, 479–482, 1120
Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 791–792
Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 599
Font-de-Gaume Cave: 488, 494–496
Fontenay Abbey (Burgundy): 902–904
Fontevraud Royal Abbey: 440–442
Fontvieille: sleeping, 609
Fontvieille (Monaco): 764, 771
Food: See Cheeses; Chocolate; Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Foie gras; Markets; Olive oil; Truffles
Food allergies: 1117
Food tours: Avignon, 621; Nice, 711; Paris, 148
Fort Carré (Antibes): 781, 785
Fort de Douaumont (Verdun): 1070–1071
Fort du Petit Bé (St-Malo): 350
Forteresse Royale de Chinon: 424–425
Fort la Latte: 356–357
Fort St. Elme (Collioure): 567
Forum Square (Arles): See Place du Forum
Fougères: 359–360
Fouquet’s (Paris): 105
Fourvière Hill (Lyon): 930, 938–943; eating, 957
Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze): 762
Frank Gehry Tower (Arles): 604
French Alps: See Alps
French attitude: 30
French language: See Language
French Riviera: See Riviera
French Riviera Pass: 694–695
Fuissé: 963
Gadagne Museums (Lyon): 946–947
Galamus Gorges: 557
Galerie Mario Colonel (Chamonix): 846
Galeries Lafayette (Paris): 111, 121, 123
Gare d’Austerlitz (Paris): 173
Gare de Bercy (Paris): 173
Gare de l’Est (Paris): 172
Gare de Lyon (Paris): 161, 171–172
Gare du Nord (Paris): 169–170
Gare Montparnasse (Paris): 170–171
Gare St. Lazare (Paris): 172–173
Garnier Opera (Paris): 57, 109–110, 124
Gauguin, Paul: 89, 98, 600, 949
Gauls: 661, 855, 899–901, 929, 941–943, 1072; about, 901
Gay nightlife, in Paris: 134
Gehry (Frank) Tower (Arles): 604
Geneva Airport: 801, 818, 853–854
Gérard Sion Galerie (Carcassonne): 551
Géricault, Théodore: 81, 237, 630
German Military Cemeteries (Normandy): 298–299, 323
German Military Cemetery (Bergheim): 1018–1019
Gevrey-Chambertin: 897
Gigondas: 678–679
Gîtes: 1102–1103
Glanum (St-Rémy): 654–655
“Golden Beach” (Omaha Beach): 295
Gondolas, in Chamonix: 822, 824, 827–831, 833–834; maps, 823, 828
Gordes: 688–689
Gorges de Galamus: 557
Gouffre de Padirac: 516–517
Government: 1073, 1075, 1080–1081
Governor’s Tower (Dinan): 338–339
Gramat: 510
Grand Balcon Nord (Alps): 837, 840
Grand Balcon Sud (Alps): 824, 840–841
Grande Allée des Promenades (Reims): 1040
Grande Corniche: 753–754
Grand Prix of Monaco: 695, 726, 764, 768, 770, 1160
Grand Rue (Bergheim): 1017–1018
Grand Rue (Colmar): 976–977
Grand Rue (Eguisheim): 1003–1004
Grand Rue (Mont St-Michel): 310, 316–317
Grand Rue (Ribeauvillé): 1001
Grand Rue (Strasbourg): 1024
Grimaldi Château (Antibes): 783
Gros Horloge (Rouen): 230–231
Grotte de Font-de-Gaume: 488, 494–496
Grotte de Rouffignac: 488, 500–502
Grotte du Pech Merle: 489, 520
Grotte Préhistorique des Merveilles: 513
Grottes de Cougnac: 489, 502–503
Grünewald, Matthias, Isenheim Altarpiece: 980–983
Gueberschwihr: 999
Guédelon Château: 911–913
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1157; updates, 29
Guy de Chassey (Louvois): 1054
Half-timbered houses of Alsace: 976, 977, 1014, 1018
Halles Boulingrin (Reims): 1048
Hamlet (Versailles): 194–195
Hartmannswillerkopf (Cernay): 999
Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène: 110
Hautes Corbières Château: 557–559
Haut-Kœnigsbourg Château: 1001–1002
Hautvillers: 1055–1056
Hédiard (Paris): 120
Henri de Villamont (Savigny): 888, 894
Hermès (Paris): 122
Heurtault Tower (Amboise): 379
High Corniche: 753–754
Hiking (walking): Albi, 533; Alet, 353; Alsace, 998; Annecy, 810; Antibes, 785–787; Avignon, 624; Bayeux, 266; Beaune, 872–874; Beynac, 478; Bourges, 917; Burgundy, 872–874; Cap Ferrat, 758–759; Cap Fréhel, 357; Carcassonne, 549–550; Chamonix, 834–844; map, 838–839; Chartres, 206; Collioure, 564–570; Dinan, 340–341; Duingt, 810; Eguisheim, 1003–1006; Etrétat, 252–253; Eze, 761–762, 762; Fort la Latte, 356–357; Giverny, 210; Honfleur, 251; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 681–682; Kaysersberg, 1012–1013; Lastours, 560; Mont St-Michel, 316–318; Pont du Gard, 642, 643–644; Rance River Valley, 340–341; Ribeauvillé, 1001; Riquewihr, 1012–1013; Roussillon, 685–686; St-Malo, 351; Vaison-la-Romaine, 669; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 748–749
Hill towns of the Luberon: 680–691; map, 682–683
Historial Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 234
History: 1072–1075; timeline, 1076–1077
Holidays: 1159–1161
Holocaust Memorial (Paris): 114
Honfleur: 220, 241–257; eating, 255–256; helpful hints, 245; map, 242–243; nightlife, 253; sights/activities, 245–253; sleeping, 253–255; tourist information, 244; transportation, 244–245, 257
Honfleur Jetty/Park: 252
Horseback shows: 181, 412, 924
Hospices de Beaune: 866–870
Hostels (auberge de jeunesse): overview, 1108–1109. See also specific destinations
Hot-air ballooning: 369, 449, 474
Hotels: booking sites, 1104; modern chains, 1100–1101; overview, 1097–1101; rates and deals, 1096–1097; reservations, 1102–1103. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Hotel barges, overview: 1108
Hôtel de la Cité (Carcassonne): 548
Hôtel Dieu des Hospices de Beaune: 866–870
Hôtel l’Aiguille du Midi (Alps): 849
Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 626
Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 711–712, 726, 727, 729
Houdini, Harry (Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin): 407
House of Etienne de la Boëtie (Sarlat): 457
“House of Heads” (Colmar): 979–980
House of Magic (Blois): 407
Hugo, Victor: 66, 95, 102, 322, 1164; House (Paris), 111–112
Huisnes-sur-Mer: 323
Hunawihr: 1000
Hurepel de Minerve: 561
Husseren Les Cinq Château: 1006
Ile Besnard: 358
Ile de la Cité (Paris): 35, 60–67; map, 64–65
Ile St. Louis (Paris): 57, 67–68, 125; eating, 157–158; map, 64–65; sleeping, 140–141
Ill River: 1026–1027, 1028; cruises, 1028–1029
Illuminated Lyon: 934
Impressionism: 86–88, 90, 97–98, 106–107, 208, 211–212, 244, 246–247
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 81, 85, 237
Institute of Oceanography (Villefranche): 748
International Center for Cave Art (Lascaux): 488, 498–500
International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 206
Internet security: 1132
Isenheim Altarpiece (Grünewald): 980–983
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 681–685
Italy: 827–831, 846–847; train travel, 175
Jardin Anglais (Dinan): 335
Jardin de la Paix (Cape Ferrat): 759
Jardin des Papillons (Hunawihr): 1000
Jardin d’Eté (Arles): 594
Jardin d’Eze: 761–762
Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris): 99
Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 623–624
Jardin Exotique (Monaco): 772
Jazz clubs, in Paris: 122–123
Jewish Art and History Museum (Paris): 113–114
Jewish Ghetto (Nice): 719
Jewish Quarter (Paris): 111, 134; eating, 155–156
Joan of Arc: 222, 227, 230, 233, 238, 317, 382, 423, 424–425, 917, 940, 1041–1042, 1043, 1045, 1074, 1082; biographical sketch, 229; Museum (Rouen), 234
Joan of Arc Church (Rouen): 228
Joan of Arc Tower (Rouen): 238
John, Elton: 710
Joucas: sleeping, 687
Juliénas: 963
Julien Bridge: 691
Jumièges Abbey: 238–239
Juno Beach: 305–306; map, 274–275
Juno Beach Centre (Courseulles): 305–306
Kayaking: See Canoeing
Kaysersberg History Museum: 1011
Keratry Mansion (Dinan): 336
Kids, travel tips: 1106–1107
Kientzheim: 1013
Koïfhus (Colmar): 972–973
La Basoche (Lyon): 946
La Belle Iloise (Dinan): 338
La Cambe: 298–299
La Capelière: 606
Lac Blanc (Alps): 841
Lace Conservatory (Bayeux): 266
La Cité (Carcassonne): 539, 544–549; eating, 555–556; map, 545; sleeping, 551–552
La Cité Médiévale (Rocamadour): 511, 516, 517
La Cité Religieuse (Rocamadour): 511, 513–516
La Cohue (Dinan): 338
La Condamine (Monaco): 765
La Confluence (Lyon): 951–952
Lacoste: 690
La Craquanterie (Dinan): 336
La Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 930, 938, 950–951
La Défense (Paris): 107–108
La Digue de la Mer: 606
Ladurée (Paris): 121
Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 57, 98–99
La Ferme de la Sapinière (Omaha Beach): 292
La Flégère Lift (Alps): 824, 833–834, 840–841, 843
La Fleunie Château: 500
La Grande Arche (Paris): 107–108
La Maison des Climats (Beaune): 861, 870
La Maison des Truffe (Paris): 120–121
La Marmite de l’Abbaye: 341
Langeais Château: 367, 436–438
Langrolay: sleeping, 343–344
Language: barrier and French attitude, 30; coffee and tea lingo, 1126–1127; hotel lingo, 1098; online translation tip, 1086; Paris Métro, 40–41; picnic terms, 1112; pronunciation guide, 1169–1172; restaurant phrases, 1174; road signs, 1150–1151; survival phrases, 1173; train terms, 1134; wine lingo, 1125
Languedoc-Roussillon: 16, 522–573; cuisine, 524; map, 523; planning tips, 523–524; transportation, 524. See also specific destinations
Lantern of the Dead (Sarlat): 458
La Petite France (Strasbourg): 1027–1028, 1029
Larmes de Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 228
La Rochepot Château: 885–886, 891
La Roque-Gageac: 468, 469, 473–475
La Roque St-Christophe: 489, 497–498
La Roquette (Arles): 601–602, 613–614
La Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 238–239
La Route Napoléon: 695
La Salle, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de: 231
Lastours Châteaux: 560
L’Atelier (Arles): 612
Latin Quarter (Paris): 68–72
La Tour de Faure: 519
La Tour Eiffel (Paris): 56, 91–94, 125; eating, 92, 148–149; reservations, 27, 91–93
La Tour Métallique (Lyon): 937–938
La Turbie: 762–763
Lebrec Calvados (Omaha Beach): 296
Le Brévent Gondola (Alps): 822, 824, 833–834, 843
Le Bugue: market, 452
Le Caveau des Musignys: 896
Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 86–87
Left Bank (Paris): 35, 98–102; eating, 158–161; guided tours, 52–54; maps, 100–101, 159
Le Hameau Dubœuf (Romanèche-Thorins): 963
Le Havre Cruise Port: 176–177
Le Mans Auto Race: 1160
Le Mémorial de Caen: 306–309
Le Mistral: 583
Le Mulet (Chamonix): 824
Le Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 630
Leonardo da Vinci Park (Amboise): 379–381
Le Saut aux Loups: 442–443
Les Baux: 576, 645–651; map, 647
Les Baux Castle Ruins: 645, 646, 648
Les Bossons: sleeping, 849
Les Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 871
Les Egouts de Paris: 95
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: 489, 491–503; caves near, 494–503; eating, 493–494; market, 452; sleeping, 493–494
Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 187–188
Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes (Versailles): 188
Les Grands Montets: 843
Les Haras Nationaux (Cluny): 924
Les Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 934, 941, 1160
Le Somail: sleeping, 554
Les Praz: 833–834, 840, 841, 844
Les Rochers Sculptés (Rothéneuf): 358
Le Trophée des Alpes: 762–763
L’Hospitalet (Rocamadour): 511, 512–513, 517
Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 81–82
Liberty Tree (Bayeux): 265–266
Lido (Paris): 105
Ligré: sleeping, 430–431
Limeray: sleeping, 389
L’Index Lift (Alps): 833–834, 841
L’Officiel des Spectacles: 36, 122, 123
Loire River: 361; biking along, 368–369, 384, 403, 407–408, 411; canoeing, 384, 421
Loire Valley: 15, 361–443; châteaux at a glance, 366–367; châteaux history, 382–383; cuisine, 370; home base, 362–364; map, 362–363; planning tips, 364–365; tours, 370; transportation, 365–369; wines, 370–371, 384–385, 417, 423, 425–428. See also specific destinations
London: train travel, 174–175
Longest Day, The (movie): 279–280, 300, 303, 1165
Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery: 286–288
L’Ossuaire de Douaumont (Verdun): 1068–1070
Lot River Valley: 518–521
Loubressac: 510
Louis Vuitton (Paris): 105
Louis XIV (Sun King): 186–187, 1082; Versailles, 186–187, 188–193
Lourmarin: market, 584
Louvois: 1054
Louvre Museum (Paris): 56, 74–82; map, 77
Low Corniche: 753–754
Lower Town (Les Baux): 648–650
Luberon hill towns: 680–691; map, 682–683
Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum (Lyon): 936, 941–943
LUMA Arles: 604
Lumière Museum (Lyon): 936, 953–954
Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 86–87
Luxembourg Garden (Paris): 99
Lyon: 16, 927–962; at a glance, 936; arrival in, 930–931; cuisine, 928; eating, 956–961; helpful hints, 931, 934–935; maps, 932–933, 945, 958–959; nightlife, 954; orientation, 929–930; planning tips, 927–928; shopping, 950; sights/activities, 937–954; sleeping, 955–956; tourist information, 930; tours, 936–937; transportation, 930–931, 935–936, 961–962
Lyon Airport: 931
Lyon City Card: 930
Lyon History Museum: 947
Lyon Museum of Fine Arts: 936, 949
Lyon Opera House: 941
Madeloc Tower: 567–570
Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 791–792
Magic, House of (Blois): 407
Maginot Monument (Verdun): 1066–1067
Magny-les-Villers: 887–888, 894
MAHB (Bayeux): 266–267
Mail: 1132. See also specific destinations
Maison de la Magie (Blois): 407
Maison de la Montagne (Chamonix): 825
Maison des Climats (Beaune): 861, 870
Maison des Têtes (Colmar): 979–980
Maison du Fauvism (Collioure): 565
Maison Forte de Reignac: 497
Maison Herzer (Kaysersberg): 1011
Maison Pfister (Colmar): 977–978
Maisons Satie (Honfleur): 250–251
Manet, Edouard: 86–87, 98, 629
Manoir de Gisson (Sarlat): 460
Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 649
Maps: navigation tools, 1092, 1147. See also Map Index
Marais (Paris): 36, 111–117, 134–140; eating, 151–157; guided tours, 52–54; map, 136–137; shopping, 120; sleeping, 135–140
Marie-Antoinette: 72, 73, 187, 193–196, 1082–1083
Markets: 1114–1115; Albi, 527, 534; Amboise, 373; Annecy, 801–802; Antibes, 780, 782–783; Arles, 586, 606–607; Avignon, 628, 638; Bayeux, 259; Beaune, 861; Bergheim, 1018; Beynac, 452, 477; Bonnieux, 690; Bourges, 914; Carcassonne, 541; Chamonix, 819; Chartres, 198; Chinon, 421; Cluny, 921; Collioure, 563; Colmar, 970, 973, 976; Dinan, 333, 338; Dinard, 352; Domme, 453, 472; Dordogne, 452–453; Honfleur, 245; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 681, 682–683; Kaysersberg, 1013–1014; La Roque-Gageac, 473; Lyon, 934; Martel, 508; Mortemart, 505; Nice, 703, 707, 714, 717–718, 731; Orange, 657; Paris, 72, 95; Reims, 1041, 1048, 1059; Rouen, 26, 236; St-Emilion, 505; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 652; Sarlat, 452, 453, 454, 458–459; Strasbourg, 1029; Vaison-la-Romaine, 664; Vence, 793; Versailles, 196; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 744
Marmottan Museum (Paris): 57, 97–98
Martel (Reims): 1051–1052
Martel (town): 508
Martigny, Switzerland: 823, 824, 846
Mary Magdalene: 907, 909, 910–911
Masséna Museum (Nice): 724
Massif Fortifié de Souville (Verdun): 1066
Matignon: 355–356
Matisse, Henri: 90, 112, 115, 533, 565, 570, 949; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 794; Museum (Nice), 710, 722–723
Maussane: 651; eating, 651; sleeping, 651
Mayle, Peter: 680, 690, 1106, 1162
Medieval Quarter (Bourges): 913, 917
Mémorial de Caen: 306–309
Mémorial de la Déportation (Paris): 66–67
Mémorial de la Shoah (Paris): 114
Mémorial de Verdun: 1067–1068
Mémorial Musée de Fleury (Verdun): 1068
Mémorial 39/45 Museum (Alet): 352
Ménerbes: 690
Menthon-St-Bernard: 811
Menton: 764
Mer de Glace (Alps): 824, 831–833, 837, 840
Merveilles Cave: 513
Metallic Tower (Lyon): 937–938
Meter Man (Colmar): 978
Metric system: 1166
Métro (Paris): 39–42, 130, 134–135; Cité “Metropolitain” stop, 72
Meursault: 884, 891; eating, 881
Middle Corniche: 753–754
Minerve: 560–561
Mini-Châteaux (Amboise): 381, 384
Mistral, Frédéric: 600
Mistral winds: 583
Mobile phones: 1128–1130. See also Apps
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 710, 723
Modern-Art Museum (Céret): 570
Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 1057
Monaco: 694, 764–776; eating, 774; helpful hints, 768–769; map, 766–767; self-guided walk, 769–772; sight/activities, 769–774; sleeping, 774; tourist information, 765; transportation, 765, 768, 769, 775–776
Monaco Cathedral: 771–772
Monaco Grand Prix: 695, 726, 764, 768, 770, 1160
Monaco Philharmonic Orchestra: 769
Monaco-Ville: 765, 769–772, 774
Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 80
Monastère St. Paul de Mausole (St-Rémy): 652–654
Monet, Claude: 87, 106, 231–233, 237, 244, 246–247, 949, 984, 1083; gravesite, in Giverny, 212; House and Gardens (Giverny), 208, 211–212; Marmottan Museum (Paris), 57, 97–98; Orangerie Museum (Paris), 56, 90
Money: 1086–1092; budgeting, 25
Money-saving tips: 25–26, 1086; Avignon, 616; Lyon, 930; Paris, 58–59, 143; Riviera, 694–695; sleeping, 1096–1097; Strasbourg, 1019–1020
Mont-Alban Fort: 748–749
Monte Carlo: See Monaco
Monte Carlo Ballet: 769
Monte Carlo Casino: 773–774
Montée de la Grande Côte (Lyon): 951
Montenvers: 824, 831–833, 837, 840, 850
Montignac: 498–500; eating, 501; market, 452
Montmartre (Paris): 36, 57, 116–118; eating, 161; map, 117
Montmartre Museum (Paris): 118
Montparnasse Tower (Paris): 103
Mont Rouge: 686
Mont St-Michel: 220, 310–328; eating, 326–327; helpful hints, 314–315; maps, 311, 313, 315; sights/activities, 316–323; sleeping, 323–325; tourist information, 311; transportation, 312–314, 327–328
Mont St-Michel Abbey: 318–323
Mont St-Michel Ramparts: 323
Montsec Monument (St-Mihiel): 1071
Monument to the Dying Lion (Verdun): 1067
Morey-St-Denis: 897
Morrison, Jim: 115
Mortemart: 505
Mountaineering Center (Chamonix): 846
Moutarderie Fallot (Beaune): 871–872
Movies, recommended: 1163–1165
Moyenne Corniche: 753–754
Mumm (Reims): 1050
Musée Alpin (Chamonix): 845–846
Musée Angladon (Avignon): 629
Musée Animé du Vin (Chinon): 423
Musée Archéologique: See Archaeological museums
Musée Calvet (Avignon): 629–630
Musée Carnavalet (Paris): 112
Musée-Château d’Annecy: 806
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux): 266–267
Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme (Paris): 113–114
Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret: 570
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 710, 723
Musée de la Reddition (Reims): 1041, 1048–1049
Musée de l’Armée (Paris): 56–57, 96
Musée de l’Hôtel de Ville (Amboise): 377
Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris): 56, 90
Musée de Montmartre (Paris): 118
Musée Départemental Arles Antiques: 602–604
Musée des Beaux-Arts: Lyon, 936, 949; Nice, 723; Paris, 106–107; Rouen, 236–237; Strasbourg, 1026
Musée des Confluences (Lyon): 952
Musée des Cristaux (Chamonix): 846
Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand (Honfleur): 251
Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 785
Musée d’Orsay (Paris): 56, 83–90; map, 84
Musée du Débarquement (Arromanches): 283–284
Musée du Débarquement (Utah Beach): 301–302
Musée du Louvre (Paris): 56, 74–82; map, 77
Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 623
Musée du Vin de Bourgogne (Beaune): 871
Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 630
Musée le Secq des Tournelles (Rouen): 237
Musée Lumière (Lyon): 936, 953–954
Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris): 57, 97–98
Musée Masséna (Nice): 724
Musée Matisse (Nice): 710, 722–723
Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux): 267–268
Musée Mémorial d’Omaha Beach: 293–294
Musée National d’Art Moderne (Paris): 114
Musée National de Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 489, 492–493
Musée National du Moyen Age (Paris): 57, 98–99
Musée National March Chagall (Nice): 710, 720–722
Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 772
Musée Picasso (Antibes): 784–785
Musée Picasso (Paris): 57, 112–113
Musée Réattu (Arles): 602
Musées des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (Lyon): 950
Musées Gadagne (Lyon): 946–947
Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi): 531–533
Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 649
Museon Arlaten (Arles): 601
MuséoParc Alésia (Alise-Ste-Reine): 899–900
Museums: sightseeing tips, 1094–1095. See also specific museums
Museum of Ceramics (Rouen): 237–238
Museum of Decorative Arts (Strasbourg): 1026
Museum of Ethnography (Honfleur): 251
Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 212
Museum of Ironworks (Rouen): 237
Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 650
Museum of the Sea (Honfleur): 251
Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 1041, 1048–1049
Museum of the Wine of Burgundy (Beaune): 871
Museum Pass (Paris): 58–59
Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts (Lyon): 950
Mushroom caves: 442–443
Mustard Mill (Beaune): 871–872
Napoleon Bonaparte: 81, 105, 194, 753, 924, 1074, 1083; Tomb (Paris), 56–57, 96
Narbonne Gate (Carcassonne): 544, 546, 550
Narrow-gauge train, in Nice: 725
National Guard Memorial (Omaha Beach): 295–296
National Museum of Prehistory (Les Eyzies): 489, 492–493
National Stud Farm (Cluny): 924
Nazelles-Négron: sleeping, 389
Nice: 694, 703–742; at a glance, 710; arrival in, 706; eating, 731–738; helpful hints, 707–708; as home base, 692; maps, 704–705, 728, 732–733, 736; nightlife, 725–726; self-guided walk, 711–720; sights/activities, 720–725; sleeping, 726–731; tourist information, 703, 706; tours, 709–711; transportation, 706, 708–709, 738–742
Nice Airport: 740–741; sleeping near, 731
Nice Archaeological Museum: 723
Nice Fine Arts Museum: 723
Nice Jazz Festival: 1160
Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 710, 723
Nice Opera House: 717
Normandy: 12, 217–328; at a glance, 220; cuisine, 221, 222, 326; map, 218–219; planning tips, 217–218; transportation, 219–221. See also D-Day beaches
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 289–292
Normandy Bridge: 252
Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 267–268
Norman Popular Arts (Honfleur): 251
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Chartres): 198, 199–205; map, 203
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 56, 60–63, 66, 125; map, 61; self-guided tour, 62–63, 66
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Reims): 1041–1045
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Rouen): 226, 231–234
Notre-Dame Cathedral (Strasbourg): 1024–1026, 1029
Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Lyon): 936, 939–941
Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel (Honfleur): 251
Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation (Nice): 718–719
Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison): 667–668
Notre-Dame des Anges (Collioure): 565
Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 682
Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 689
Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 934, 941, 1160
Nuits-St-Georges: 894
Nyons: market, 584
Oceanography Museum (Monaco): 772
Ochre Cliffs Trail (Roussillon): 686
Ochre Conservatory (Roussillon): 686
Old Lyon: See Vieux Lyon
Old Market Hall (Colmar): 973, 976
Old Nice: See Vieux Nice
Old Town (Colmar): 972–980; eating, 990; map, 974–975
Olive oil: 452, 564, 716–717, 735
Omaha Beach: 286–300; maps, 274–275, 287; sleeping near, 299–300
Omaha Beach Beachfront Drive: 295
Omaha Beach Focal Point: 294
Omaha Beach Memorial Museum: 293–294
Omaha Beach Memorial Statues: 294–295
Opera: Lyon, 941; Nice, 717; Paris, 57, 109–110, 124
Opéra Bastille (Paris): 124
Opéra Exhibit (Paris): 86
Opéra Garnier (Paris): 57, 109–110, 124
Oppède-le-Vieux: 689–690
Oradour-sur-Glane: 445, 503–505
Orange: 576, 656–661; map, 658
Orange City Hall: 661
Orangerie Museum (Paris): 56, 90
Orange Roman Theater: 657–660
Orches: 891
Orly Airport (Paris): 166–167; sleeping, 142
Orsay Museum (Paris): 56, 83–90; map, 84
Our Lady of Rocamadour: 513, 515–516
Overlord Museum (Omaha Beach): 292
Packing tips and checklist: 28, 1168
Padirac Cave: 516–517
Palace of Justice (Rouen): 231
Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 623, 625–626
Palace Square (Avignon): 622–623
Palace Square (Monaco): 770
Palais de Justice (Paris): 71, 231
Palais de la Méditerranée (Nice): 713–714
Palais de l’Isle (Annecy): 805, 806
Palais des Papes (Avignon): 623, 625–626
Palais du Tau (Reims): 1045–1047
Palais Jacques Cœur (Bourges): 917–918
Palais Jean de Bourbon (Cluny): 923–924
Palais Lascaris (Nice): 719
Palais Princier (Monaco): 770–771
Palais Rohan (Strasbourg): 1026
Palais Royal (Paris): 82
Parc de la Bouzaize (Beaune): 872
Parc de la Tête d’Or (Lyon): 935
Parc de Loisirs des Planards (Chamonix): 836, 845
Parc de Merlet (Chamonix): 836
Parc des Cigognes (Hunawihr): 1000
Paris: 12, 33–177; at a glance, 56–57; arrondisements, 35–36; eating, 142–161; entertainment, 122–124; excursion areas, 178–216; helpful hints, 37–39; money-saving tips, 58–59, 143; nightlife, 122–126; orientation, 34–36; planning tips, 33–34; self-guided walks, 60–74, 104–105, 124–125; shopping, 111, 119–122; sights, 74–118; sightseeing strategies, 38, 58–60; sleeping, 127–142; tourist information, 36; tours, 49–55, 124–126; transportation, 39–49, 161–177. See also specific neighborhoods
Paris Archaeological Crypt: 66
Paris Catacombs: 103–104
Paris Métro: See Métro
Paris Museum of Fine Arts: 106–107
Paris Museum Pass: 58–59
Paris Plages: 74
Paris Sewers: 95
Park Couttet (Chamonix): 826
Parthenon Friezes: 78
Passage de l’Argue (Lyon): 950
Path of Fauvism (Collioure): 565
Patriarche Père et Fils (Beaune): 874
Pedestrian safety, in Paris: 37–38
Penitents Chapel (Les Baux): 649
Père Lachaise Cemetery (Paris): 57, 115–116
Périgord-Aventure et Loisirs: 469
Pernand-Vergelesses: 894
Perreux Château: 388
Petit Balcon Sud (Alps): 841, 844
Petite France (Strasbourg): 1027–1028, 1029
Petite Venise (Colmar): 976, 988; eating, 990–991
Petit Palais (Paris): 106–107
Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 623
Petit Thouars Château (Chinon): 426–428
Petit train (tourist trains): Albi, 527; Amboise, 373; Avignon, 621; Beaune, 862–863; Carcassonne, 541, 544; Collioure, 563–564; Dinan, 334–335; Eguisheim, 1003; Honfleur, 245; Nice, 709; Paris, 50; Riquewihr, 1016; Rocamadour, 512; Strasbourg, 1023; Vaison-la-Romaine, 665; Versailles, 192
Peyrepertuse Château: 557, 559
Pfister House (Colmar): 977–978
Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 630
Phones: 1128–1132
Picasso, Pablo: 90, 115, 570, 949, 984; Museum (Antibes), 784–785; Museum (Paris), 57, 112–113
Pickpockets: See Theft alerts
Picnics: 1111–1114; vocabulary, 1112. See also Markets
Pigalle (Paris): 118
Piscine du Centre Sportif Richard Bozon (Chamonix): 836
Place Albert I (Antibes): 777
Place Balmat (Chamonix): 825–826
Place Benjamin Zix (Strasbourg): 1027, 1028
Place Billard (Chartres): 198
Place Charles de Gaulle (Bayeux): 266
Place d’Armes (Monaco): 765, 768
Place Dauphine (Paris): 73
Place de la Bastille (Paris): 124, 135; eating, 154
Place de la Cathédrale (Strasbourg): 1023–1024
Place de la Liberté (Sarlat): 458
Place de la Madeleine (Paris): 111, 120–121
Place de la Mairie (Roussillon): 686
Place de la République (Arles): 595–596
Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 622
Place de l’Opéra (Paris): 121
Place de République (St-Rémy): 652
Place des Capucins (Lyon): 951
Place des Celestins (Lyon): 955–956
Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 627, 637–638
Place des Corps-Saints (Avignon): 638
Place des Merciers (Dinan): 337
Place des Oies (Sarlat): 459
Place des Terreaux (Lyon): 948, 951
Place des Vosges (Paris): 111–112; eating, 151, 154; sleeping, 135, 138–139
Place Drouet d’Erlon (Reims): 1040–1041, 1058
Place du Centenaire (Eze): 761
Place du Change (Lyon): 947
Place du Châteaux Saint-Léon (Eguisheim): 1004–1005
Place du Dr. Pierre Walter (Bergheim): 1018
Place du Forum (Arles): 599–601, 612–613
Place du Forum (Reims): 1041, 1047–1048; eating, 1058–1059
Place du Général de Gaulle (Chinon): 423
Place du Grand Puits (Carcassonne): 549
Place du Guesclin (Dinan): 336
Place du Marché Notre- Dame (Versailles): 196, 197
Place du Palais (Avignon): 622–623
Place du Palais (Monaco): 770
Place du Peyrou (Sarlat): 456–457
Place du Tertre (Paris): 118
Place du Trocadéro (Paris): 94, 125
Place du Vieux Marché (Rouen): 227
Place Général Leclerc (Collioure): 563
Place Jeanne d’Arc (Chinon): 421
Place Lamartine (Arles): 590–591
Place Louis Lépine (Paris): 72
Place Masséna (Nice): 703, 715–716; eating, 735, 737
Place Michel Debré (Amboise): 378
Place Nautique (Lyon): 952
Place Notre-Dame (Annecy): 806
Place Nueve St. Jean (Lyon): 946
Place Pie (Avignon): 638–639
Place Rossetti (Nice): 719–720
Place Ste. Cécile (Albi): 527–528
Place St. Marc (Rouen): 22, 236
Place St. Michel (Paris): 68–69
Place St. Jean (Carcassonne): 556
Place St. Patrice (Bayeux): 259
Place Vendôme (Paris): 111, 121
Place Voltaire (Arles): 592
Plage d’Albigny (Annecy): 808
Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 781–782, 785
Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 758, 759
Plage de la Salis (Antibes): 785, 786
Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 757–758
Plage de Port d’Avall (Collioure): 566
Plage d’Imperial (Annecy): 807–808
Plage Municipal de Sevrier (Annecy): 808
Plage St. Vincent (Collioure): 566
Plague Cemetery (Rouen): 236
Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 824, 827, 829, 831, 832, 837, 840, 850
Planpraz (Alps): 824, 833, 840–841
Pléhérel-Plage: 357
Ploubalay: 355
Poilâne (Paris): 122
Pointe du Chevet: 355–356
Pointe du Grouin: 358
Pointe du Hoc: 296–298
Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument: 296
Pôle International de la Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 489, 492
Pommard: 883
Pompidou Center (Paris): 57, 114–115; sleeping near, 139
Pont au Double (Paris): 68
Pont Bonaparte (Lyon): 934, 937–938
Pont d’Avignon (pont St. Bénezet): 624–625
Pont de Normandie: 252
Pont des Arts (Paris): 73
Pont de Tancarville: 239
Pont du Corbeau (Strasbourg): 1026–1027
Pont du Gard: 576, 640–644; map, 641
Pont du Gard Museum: 643
Pont Julien: 691
Pont Morens (Annecy): 805
Pont Neuf (Paris): 73
Pont Valentré (Cahors): 520–521
Pont Vieux (Albi): 533
Pont Vieux (Carcassonne): 539, 549, 550
Population: 1073
Port de Lyvet: 341
Porte d’Aude (Carcassonne): 550
Porte de Dinan (St-Malo): 351
Porte de Mars (Reims): 1041, 1048
Porte des Champs Vauverts (St-Malo): 350
Port-en-Bessin: 289
Porte Sainte Anne (Fougères): 359
Porte St. Pierre (St-Malo): 351
Porte St. Thomas (St-Malo): 350
Port Winston Artificial Harbor (Arromanches): 282
Post offices: 1132; Monaco, 769, 772. See also specific destinations
Pouilly: 963
Pouilly-en-Auxois: 906
Prehistoric caves: See Cro-Magnon caves
Prehistory Welcome Center (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac): 489, 492
Presqu’île (Lyon): 930, 948–950; eating, 950; map, 958–959; nightlife, 954; sleeping, 956
Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 770–771
Printemps de Bourges: 914
Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 703, 710, 711–715, 725; eating, 737–738; map, 704–705; sleeping, 727, 729–730
Promenade du Moulinet (Dinard): 352
Promenade du Paillon (Nice): 716
Pronunciation guide: 1169–1172
Provence: 12, 574–679; at a glance, 576; cuisine, 583–584; maps, 575, 577; market days, 584; planning tips, 574–576; tours, 578–581; transportation, 576–578. See also specific destinations
Puligny-Montrachet: 884–885, 891
Puppets of the World Museum (Lyon): 947
Puycelsi: 537–538
Puymin: 665–666
Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 73
Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice): 714
Quartier Latin (Paris): See Latin Quarter
Rabanel, Jean-Luc: 612
Rabelais, François: 422–423, 425
Rail passes: 27, 1134–1135, 1138, 1141–1142, 1156–1157
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rance River: 332; cruises, 341
Rance River Valley: 340–342
Réattu Museum (Arles): 602
Refuge du Montenvers: 832, 850
Refuge-Hôtel La Flégère: 850
Refuge-Plan de l’Aiguille: 831, 837, 850
Reims: 16, 1034–1060; cuisine, 1033; eating, 1058–1059; helpful hints, 1037; maps, 1034–1035, 1038–1039; planning tips, 1032, 1034–1035; sights/activities, 1040–1057; sleeping, 1057–1058; tourist information, 1036; transportation, 1032–1033, 1036, 1037, 1040, 1059–1060
Reims Cathedral: 1041–1045
Reims Market Hall: 1041, 1048, 1059
Renault (Paris): 105
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 87–88, 98, 237, 984
Rental properties: See Apartment rentals
RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 39–40, 42–43, 164–165, 167, 168, 180
Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon): 952–953
Resources from Rick Steves: 1156–1157
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rhône River: 620, 624–625, 636, 927, 951–952, 962
Rhône Valley: 962–963
Ribeauvillé: 1001
Richard the Lionheart: 233, 421, 424, 441, 477, 514, 907
Riquewihr: 1000, 1012–1013, 1014–1017
Rivau Château: 428
Riviera: 14, 692–796; at a glance, 694; art scene, 701; cuisine, 701–702; helpful hints, 694–695; home base, 692–693; maps, 693, 697; planning tips, 693; tours, 700–701; transportation, 695–700. See also specific destinations
Rocamadour Château: 513
Roc de Chère: 811
Rodin, Auguste: 89–90, 949; Museum (Paris), 57, 97
RoissyBus: 164
Roman Bridge (Julien): 691
Roman Bridge (Vaison-la-Romaine): 663, 668
Romanèche-Thorins: 963
Romanée-Conti (Vosne-Romanée): 895–896
Roman sites (ancient Romans): 376, 546, 581–583, 753, 1072; Alise Ste-Reine, 899–900; Arles, 584, 592–597, 602–604; Glanum (St-Rémy), 654–655; Lyon, 941–943; Orange, 657–661; Paris, 66; Pont du Gard, 640–644; Pont Julien, 691; Reims, 1047–1048; Vaison-la-Romaine, 666–669
Roman theaters: See Théâtre Antique
Roque St-Christophe: 489, 497–498
Rosary, Chapel of the (Vence): 794
Rothéneuf: 358
Rouen: 220, 222–241; eating, 240–241; helpful hints, 226–227; map, 224–225; planning tips, 223; self-guided walk, 227–236; sights/activities, 236–239; sleeping, 239–240; tourist information, 223; transportation, 223, 226, 241
Rouen Great Clock: 230–231
Rouen Museum of Fine Arts: 236–237
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: 102, 399, 805, 807
Roussillon: 685–688
Route de la Champagne (Reims): 1052, 1054–1056; map, 1055
Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 238–239
Route des Bastides Albigeoises: 536–538
Route des Grands Crus: 888–889, 892, 895–897; map, 893
Route du Beaujolais: 963
Route du Vin (Alsace): 992–1002; map, 994
Route Napoléon: 695
Route of the Ancient Abbeys: 238–239
Route of the Bastides: 536–538
Royal Abbey of Fontevraud: 440–442
Rue Cler (Paris): 56, 95, 127–134; eating, 143–151; maps, 128–129, 144–145; sleeping, 131–134
Rue de Bretagne (Paris): 140, 157
Rue de Général de Gaulle (Riquewihr): 1014
Rue de la Bombarde (Lyon): 944, 946
Rue de la Cavalerie (Arles): 592
Rue de la Cordonnerie (Dinan): 338
Rue de la Fronde (Lyon): 947–948
Rue de la Monnaie (Lyon): 954
Rue de la Monnaie (Strasbourg): 1027
Rue de la Paix (Paris): 121
Rue de la Poissonnerie (Nice): 718–719
Rue de la République (Annecy): 806
Rue de la République (Arles): 597–598
Rue de la République (Sarlat): 460
Rue de la Salamandre (Sarlat): 458
Rue de Lutèce (Paris): 71
Rue des Pierres Plantées (Lyon): 951
Rue des Rosiers (Paris): 111, 134; eating, 155–156
Rue des Saules (Paris): 118
Rue des Tables Claudiennes (Lyon): 951
Rue des Teinturiers (Avignon): 628–629, 636–637
Rue Droite (Nice): 719
Rue du Bœuf (Lyon): 946
Rue du Conseil Souverain (Colmar): 987–988
Rue du Docteur Fanton (Arles): 599, 613
Rue du Jerzual (Dinan): 338
Rue du Mont Cenis (Paris): 118
Rue du Rempart (Eguisheim): 1003–1004
Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 229–230
Rue Mercière (Lyon), eating: 960
Rue Nationale (Amboise): 377
Rue Obscure (Villefranche): 747–748
Rue Royale (Paris): 121
Rue St. François de Paule (Nice): 716–717
Rue St. Honoré (Paris): 121
Rue St. Jean (Lyon): 944
Rue Voltaire (Arles): 592
Rue Voltaire (Chinon): 423
Russian Cathedral (Nice): 710, 724
RV rentals: 1146
Ryes: sleeping, 285
Sacré-Cœur (Paris): 57, 116–118
S. Paul Monastery and Hospital (St-Rémy): 652–654
St. Aubin: 891
St. Bénezet Bridge (Avignon): 624–625
St. Catherine Church (Honfleur): 247–248
St. Catherine’s Tower (Dinan): 339
St-Cirq Lapopie: 518–519
St-Cyprien: market, 452
St-Denis Church (Amboise): 376–377
Ste. Cécile Cathedral (Albi): 528–530
Sainte-Chapelle (Paris): 56, 69–71, 123; map, 70
Ste. Madeleine Basilica (Vézelay): 908–911
Ste-Mère Eglise: 303–304
St. Etienne Cathedral (Bourges): 915–917
St. Francois de Sales Church (Annecy): 805
St. Genest Church (Flavigny): 902
St-Geniès: market, 452
St. Georges Church (Lyon): 938
St. Georges de Boscherville Abbey: 238
St-Jacut-de-la-Mer: 355
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: 758–759
St. Jean Cathedral (Lyon): 943–944
St-Jeannet: 794, 795; sleeping, 795
St-Laurent-sur-Mer: 292; sleeping, 299–300
St. Leo IX Chapel (Eguisheim): 1005–1006
St. Louis Cathedral (Blois): 407
St. Maclou Church (Rouen): 235
St-Malo Ramparts: 346, 349–351
St-Marcellin-lès-Vaison: 673
St. Martin Church (Colmar): 978–979
St. Michael’s Chapel (Rocamadour): 515
St. Michael’s Church (Chamonix): 825
St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche): 748
St. Michel Church (Roussillon): 686
St-Mihiel: 1071
St. Nazaire Church (Carcassonne): 548
St. Nazaire Tower (Carcassonne): 547
St. Nicholas Church (Blois): 407
St-Paul-de-Vence: 790–792
St. Peter’s Cathedral (Annecy): 805–806
St. Peter’s Church (Mont St-Michel): 317–318
St. Pierre Chapel (Villefranche): 747
St. Pierre Church (Avignon): 626–627
St-Rémy-de-Provence: 651–656; map, 653
St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice): 720
St-Romain: 891
St. Sacerdos Cathedral (Sarlat): 457–458
St. Salvy Church and Cloister (Albi): 533–534
St. Sauveur Church (Dinan): 339
St. Saveur Church (Rocamadour): 515–516
St-Suliac: 342
St. Sulpice Church (Fougères): 359
St. Sulpice Church (Paris): 99
St. Thomas Church (Strasbourg): 1027
St. Trophime Church (Arles): 596–597
St. Trophime Cloisters (Arles): 597
St. Vincent Church (Les Baux): 649
Salin de Giraud: 606
Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum (Figueres): 570
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour: 513, 515–516
Santons Museum (Les Baux): 650
Saône River: 927, 930, 938, 951–952; cruises, 937, 952
Sarlat-la-Canéda: 453–466; eating, 464–465; helpful hints, 454, 456; maps, 455, 463; markets, 452, 453, 454, 458–459; self-guided walk, 456–460; sleeping, 461–464; tourist information, 453; transportation, 454, 465–466
Satie (Erik) Museum (Honfleur): 250–251
Savigny-lès-Beaune: 888, 892, 894
Saving Private Ryan (movie): 279–280, 291, 1165
Savoie: See Alps; Chamonix
Schweitzer, Albert: 1008; biographical sketch, 1010; Museum (Kaysersberg), 1012
Séguret: 673–676
Seine River: 34, 67–68, 73, 74, 238, 239, 241, 244, 251, 252, 376; beaches, in Paris, 74; cruises, 50–52, 124
Sensation Vin (Beaune): 874
Sentier Touristique de Tirepoil: 786–787
Sewers of Paris: 95
Shakespeare and Company (Paris): 68
Shopping: clothing sizes, 1166; hours, 1086; Paris, 111, 119–122; VAT refunds, 1091–1092. See also specific destinations
Sightseeing: best three-week trip, 20–23; with children, 1107; designing an itinerary, 18–19, 22–24; maps and navigation tools, 1092; must-see Destinations, 12–14; planning tips, 1093–1095; reservations, 27; worth-it destinations, 15–16. See also specific sights and destinations
Sigolsheim: 1013
SIM cards: 1129–1130
Sisteron: 695
Skiing, in Chamonix: 842–843
Sleep code: 1096
Sleeping: 1095–1109; booking site, 1104; budget tips, 25–26; hotel chains, 1100–1101; online reviews, 1105; rates and deals, 1096–1097; reservations, 27, 1102–1103. See also specific destinations
Sleeping Beauty castle (Ussé): 428
Smartphones: 28, 1128–1130. See also Apps
Sorbonne (Paris): 68
Souillac: market, 453
Spain: day trip, 570
Special events: 1159–1161. See also specific destinations
Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 206
Stein, Gertrude: 115
Strasbourg: 1019–1031; eating, 1030–1031; helpful hints, 1023; map, 1020–1021; sights/activities, 1023–1029; sleeping, 1029–1030; tourist information, 1019–1020; transportation, 1020–1023, 1031
Strasbourg Archaeological Museum: 1026
Strasbourg Cathedral: 1024–1026, 1029
Strasbourg-Entzheim Airport: 1022–1023
Strasbourg Historical Museum: 1026–1027
Strasbourg Museum of Fine Arts: 1026
Strasbourg Pass: 1019–1020
Suzette: 677–678
Switzerland: car travel, 799; hiking, 844; Martigny, 823, 824, 846
Sword of Roland: 515
Synagogue, Avignon: 627–628
Taittinger (Reims): 1051
Taizé: 924–926
Talloires: 811
Tanners’ Quarter (Colmar): 973
Tapisserie de Bayeux: 262–264
Taxes: VAT refunds, 1091–1092
Taxis: 1144; Lyon, 935; Nice, 709; Paris, 47–48, 126; to/from airports, 165, 167, 168; tipping, 1091. See also specific destinations
Téléphériques: See Gondolas, in Chamonix
Telephones: 1128–1132
Temperatures, average monthly: 1167
TGV trains: 173–174, 1133, 1135, 1139–1140; map, 1136–1137
Théâtre Antique (Roman Theater): Arles, 595; Lyon, 936, 941–943; Orange, 657–660
Théâtre des Jacobins (Dinan): 336
Theft alerts: 29, 31, 1085; Nice, 707; Paris, 37, 42, 93
Thello Train: 175
Thermes de Constantin (Arles): 602
Time zones: 1086
Tintin (comic strip): 417
Tipping: 1090–1091
Tollbooths, about: 1153
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Paris): 105
Tonnellerie Francois Frères (St-Romain): 891
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri: 86; Museum (Albi), 531–533
Tour Bidouane (St-Malo): 350
Tour de France: 1160
Tour de Madeloc: 567–570
Tour Eiffel (Paris): 56, 91–94, 125; eating, 92, 148–149; reservations, 27, 91–93
Tour guides: 27. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 1084–1085. See also specific destinations
Tourist scams, in Paris: 37
Tourist trains: See Petit train
Tour Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 238
Tour Métallique (Lyon): 937–938
Tour Montparnasse (Paris): 103
Tour Philippe-le-Bel (Villeneuve): 630
Tours: Rick Steves, 1157. See also specific destinations
Tours-sur-Marne: 1054
Train stations, in Paris: 169–173; map, 170
Train travel: 1133–1142; baggage check, 1140–1141; best three-week trip, 22–23; budgeting, 25; coping with strikes, 1140; general tips, 1141–1142; glossary of terms, 1134; map, 1136–1137; Paris, 42–43, 169–175; reservations, 27, 1139–1140, 1141–1142; schedules, 1133–1134; tickets, 1135, 1139. See also specific destinations
Tranchée des Baïonnettes (Verdun): 1070
Trans Côte d’Azur: 700, 709–710, 739
Transportation: 1132–1156; budgeting, 25; budget tips, 26; map, 1136–1137. See also Boat cruises; Buses; Car travel; Train travel; and specific destinations
Travel insurance: 27–28
Travel smarts: 29–32
Travel tips: 1085–1086
Treverien: 341
Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 180, 181, 184, 193–196
Trip costs: 25
Troglodyte houses (Amboise): 379
Trophée des Alpes: 762–763
Truffles: 120–121, 451, 454, 459, 482, 690
Tuileries Garden (Paris): 74
Turckheim: 999–1000
Uber: 1144; Lyon, 935; Nice, 709; Paris, 47, 126, 165, 167
Unterlinden Museum (Colmar): 980–984
Ussé Château: 428
Utah Beach: 300–304; map, 274–275
Utah Beach Landing Museum: 301–302
Uzès: market, 584
Vacqueyras: 678
Vaison-la-Romaine: 576, 663–673; eating, 671–673; helpful hints, 664–665; map, 664; sights/activities, 665–670; sleeping, 670–671; tourist information, 663; transportation, 663, 673
Valle d’Aosta, Italy: 846–847
Vallée Blanche (Alps): 843
Vandenesse-en-Auxois: 898
Van der Weyden, Roger: 869–870
Van Gogh, Vincent: 88–89, 629; in Arles, 585, 586; self-guided walk, 590–592, 594–595, 598–601; in St-Rémy, 652–654
VAT refunds: 1091–1092
Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Paris): 51
Vegetarians: 1117
Vélib’ Bikes (Paris): 49
Vence: 793–796
Venus de Milo: 78
Verdun: 16, 1060–1062; eating, 1062; maps, 1034–1035; planning tips, 1032; sleeping, 1062; tourist information, 1060; transportation, 1032–1033, 1060–1061, 1062
Verdun Battlefields: 1060, 1063–1071; background, 1064–1066; driving tour, 1066–1071; eating, 1063; map, 1065; tours, 1064; transportation, 1063–1064
Verdun Memorial Museum: 1067–1068
Verrerie d’Art de Kaysersberg: 1009
Versailles: 178–197; eating, 197; maps, 182–183, 197; orientation, 181, 184–188; planning tips, 180–181; self-guided tour, 188–196; sleeping, 196; transportation, 180
Versailles Château: 56, 178–179, 188–192; map, 189; orientation, 181, 184–188; self-guided tour, 188–192
Versailles Gardens: 179–180, 181, 184, 187–188, 192, 193
Ver-sur-Mer: sleeping, 285
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (Reims): 1052
Vézelay: 907–911
Victoire de Samothrace: 78–79
Victory Monument (Verdun): 1061–1062
Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay): 999
Vienne River: 421, 422; canoeing, 421, 428; cruises, 421
Vierville-sur-Mer: 292, 296; sleeping, 299–300
Vieux Bassin (Honfleur): 244, 245–247, 253; eating, 255
Vieux Lyon: 930, 936, 943–948; eating, 957–960; maps, 945, 958–959; nightlife, 954; sleeping, 955–956
Vieux Nice: 703, 710, 715–720; eating, 731–735; maps, 704–705, 732–733; self-guided walk, 715–720; sleeping, 730–731
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (Cap Ferrat): 755–757
Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane): 503–505
Village Détruit de Fleury (Verdun): 1068
Villa Kérylos: 759
Villa La Leopolda (Villefranche-sur-Mer): 753
Villa Masséna (Nice): 712
Villandry: 438–440; eating, 431, 440
Villandry Château: 367, 438–440
Ville Basse (Carcassonne): 539, 546–547, 550, 556
Ville-Basse (Vaison-la-Romaine): 663, 669; eating, 672; sleeping, 671
Villedieu: 669–670; eating, 672; sleeping, 671
Villefranche-sur-Mer: 693, 694, 743–752; map, 746
Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel: 748
Villefranche-sur-Mer Harbor: 745–747
Villefranche-sur-Saône: 963
Ville-Haute (Vaison-la-Romaine): 663, 668–669; eating, 671–672; sleeping, 670
Villeneuve Château (Vence): 793–794
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: 630
Villers-Bocage: sleeping, 270
Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards
Visitor information: 1084–1085. See also specific destinations
Vitrac: 469
Vitteaux: 906
Vosne-Romanée: 895–896
Vougeot: 896
Walking: See Hiking
Way of the Cross (Rocamadour): 511, 513, 514, 516
Western Emerald Coast: 355–359
Wi-Fi: 28, 1128–1129; Paris, 38. See also specific destinations
Wilde, Oscar: 115
Wine and vineyards: 1127; Beaujolais, 928, 937, 962–963; Bordeaux, 505–508; Côtes du Rhône, 576, 662, 669, 673–679; Languedoc-Roussillon, 524, 535, 541, 551, 566, 567–570; Loire Valley, 370–371, 384–385, 417, 423, 425–428; Lyon, 928; Paris, 149; Provence, 584; guided tours, 578–579; Riviera, 702; savoring tactics, 1124–1125; vocabulary, 1125. See also Alsatian wines; Burgundy wines; Champagne
Wine Road (Alsace): See Route du Vin
Winged Victory of Samothrace: 78–79
World War I: 96, 537, 920, 964, 1009–1010, 1018, 1040–1041, 1048, 1075; Verdun Battlefields, 1060, 1063–1071; Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay), 999
World War II: 96, 102, 257, 591, 968, 1000, 1009–1010, 1012, 1018, 1075; Deportation Memorial (Paris), 66–67; Holocaust Memorial (Paris), 114; Kaysersberg, 1012, 1013; Museum of the Surrender (Reims), 1041, 1048–1049; Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux), 267–268; Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon), 936; Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane), 503–505. See also D-Day beaches
Yachts of Antibes: 782
Yves Brayer Museum (Les Baux): 649
Zellenberg: 1016