Shopping

The V&A Waterfront is the city’s most popular shopping venue: it has a vast range of shops, the setting on the harbour is lovely and there’s a huge choice of places to eat and drink. Nearby, the Cape Quarter complex, accessed off Somerset Road on the border of Green Point and De Waterkant, is smaller and more exclusive. The city centre itself offers much variety: Long Street is great for South African crafts, gifts, antiques and secondhand books, while Bree and Kloof offer unique designer goods. For something edgier, the increasingly gentrified city-fringe districts of Woodstock and the East City are destinations in their own right, with clusters of cutting-edge design shops, markets and some of the city’s best restaurants and cafés. Cape Town’s Green Map (greenmap.org) is a great source of information about ethical shopping, organic markets, delis and health shops.

essentials

Opening hours Shops have traditionally opened from Monday to Friday 8.30am–5pm and Saturday 8.30am–1pm, though lots of supermarkets, bookshops and other specialist outlets are now open beyond 5pm and also on Sunday. That said, don’t expect much to be open on Sunday afternoons, except at the Waterfront or Cavendish Square (Claremont), and no alcohol is sold in shops on Sunday in South Africa. The Waterfront has the latest opening hours, with many shops staying open until 9pm.

Fashion, crafts and jewellery

Designers abound in Cape Town, and with the added fillip of the city being crowned World Design Capital 2014, you’ll find plenty of interesting clothes and handmade objects to fill your luggage. Cape Town is not known for its indigenous arts and crafts, and apart from some beadwork, wirework and township tableaus, many of the goods you’ll buy here are from elsewhere in Africa, especially Zimbabwe and Zambia. There are several crafts outlets in the city centre and the V&A Waterfront; in the latter, the Watershed is a relaxing space with myriad retailers under one roof. You can pick up the same wares for less at the pavement markets scattered around town, but prepare to be overwhelmed by choice and varying quality. Don’t expect exotic West African-style affairs: with the exceptions of Greenmarket Square and the Pan African Market, Cape Town’s markets are more like European or North American flea markets. If you’re after South African gold and diamonds, you’ll find the V&A Waterfront is one of the best places to browse – but price tags are high.

fashion

In addition to Long St and Woodstock’s stores, the Watershed at the Waterfront has several designers in one spot. Hope Street Market also hosts a monthly fashion market, where you’ll find everything from handmade jewellery to vintage clothing in addition to its usual food stalls.

Afraid of Mice 86 Long St afraidofmice.com; map. Afraid of Mice offers hand-picked vintage women’s wear, one-of-a-kind pieces and “the clothes you wish your mother had kept for you”. Brands such as Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Stella McCartney are displayed in a clean white environment. Mon–Fri 9.45am–5pm, Sat 10am–2pm.

Mememe Cnr Church & Long sts mememe.co.za; map. A selection of somewhat edgy women’s clothing and accessories characteristic of Capetonian style, such as sassy summer dresses, leather handbags and costume jewellery. Mon–Fri 9.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–3pm.

Mungo & Jemima 108 Long St; map; also in the Watershed mungoandjemima.com; map. Provides a platform for a variety of local designers, including the owners’ labels Coppelia and Good, selling small-run women’s clothing collections encompassing bikinis, soft cotton dresses and maxi-dresses in their elegant, white-painted boutique. 108 Long St Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–5pm; Watershed daily 10am–6pm.

The Space Cavendish Square, Claremont thespace.co.za. A women’s clothing store celebrating local designers from Adam & Eve dresses to Zamaan turbans. Find a designer one- or two-piece swimsuit, handmade sandals or casual-chic afternoon wear. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

craft shops

Africa Nova 72 Waterkant St, De Waterkant; map; also in the Watershed africanova.co.za; map. A better-than-average selection of ethnic crafts and curios as well as contemporary African textiles and artwork, with an emphasis on the individual and handmade. In the Cape Quarter mall, it is a dependable stop for quality souvenirs including Ardmore porcelain. Both stores: Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10am–2pm.

Ethno Bongo 35 Main Rd, Hout Bay andbanana.com. A charming shop selling quirky and well-priced crafts, jewellery and accessories made from reclaimed wood and recycled metal, as well as textile masks and bags – recommended for unique gifts and souvenirs. Mon–Fri 10am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm.

Kalk Bay Modern 136 Main Rd, Kalk Bay kalkbaymodern.co.za; map. Contemporary photography, ceramics and jewellery as well as fine art and San textiles, with solo and group shows making this a cultural hub and a place to pick up something collectable. Daily 9.30am–5pm.

Monkeybiz 61 Wale St, Bo-Kaap monkeybiz.co.za; map. A nonprofit income-generating project that sells unique, handmade items by 450 bead artists, aiming to create sustainable employment, particularly for women. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–1pm.

Montebello Design Centre 31 Newlands Ave, Newlands montebello.co.za. A great selection of South African crafts – jewellery, beadwork, ceramics, sculptures and even musical instruments – are created here by small studios, many training people from townships to become artisans. Besides watching the craftsmen at work, you can eat at the restaurant under the oaks. Check the website for details of their occasional late-opening night markets. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 9am–3pm.

Streetwires 77 Shortmarket St, Bo-Kaap streetwires.co.za; map. At this shop and working artists’ studio you can try your hand at beading, purchase wire and bead craft artworks from lion heads to minibus taxis or even get something custom made. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm.

markets

Greenmarket Square Burg St; map. City-centre open-air market on a cobbled square where you can pick up loads of presents to take home, from all over the continent. To the sound of bongo drums, marketers tout items from beaded rhinos to batik. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm.

Pan African Market 76 Long St; map. A multicultural hothouse of township and contemporary art, artefacts, curios and crafts. There’s also a café specializing in African cuisine, a bookshop, a Cameroonian hairbraider and a West African tailor. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–3pm.

Victoria Road Market Between Camps Bay and Llandudno. Carvings, beads, fabrics and baskets sold from a roadside market spectacularly sited on a clifftop overlooking the Atlantic. No set times, but usually daily 9am–4pm.

Watershed Dock Rd, V&A Waterfront waterfront.co.za; map. A creatively converted warehouse space with over 150 shops and stalls selling local art, craftwork, fashion, jewellery and more. Daily 10am–7pm.

Wola Nani 9 Drake St, Observatory wolanani.co.za. A nonprofit organization established in 1994, Wola Nani supports crafters whose works include recycled papier-mâché bowls, jewellery, lampshades, tea light candle holders, beadwork and recycled-magazine mirrors. Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm.

ceramics

Art In The Forest Off Constantia Nek Circle, Rhodes Drive, Constantia Nek; 6 also in the Watershed artintheforest.com; map. Perched within a hillside forest with sweeping views, this is a thriving ceramic centre and gallery. The studio, run by ceramicist Anthony Shapiro, offers workshops and produces ceramics, while the gallery hosts exhibitions of leading South African ceramicists and showcases their Forestware range. Profits support their outreach programs for vulnerable children. Constantia Nek Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat 10am–3pm; Watershed daily 10am–7pm.

Clementina Ceramics The Old Biscuit Mill, 375 Albert Rd, Woodstock clementina.co.za. Specializing in ceramics by Clementina van der Walt and other leading South African ceramicists, the shop also stocks unusual cards and other designer crafts. Clementina’s tableware, vases and tiles, handcrafted in her Karoo studio, deliberately subvert the sterility of mass production. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–3pm.

furniture

Private Collections 22 Hudson St, at Waterkant St privatecollections.co.za; map. Among the Cape Quarter mall’s numerous upmarket arty shops, Private Collections is easy to miss yet possibly the most extraordinary offering. A massive warehouse on two levels, it’s packed to the rafters with fantastic wooden architectural pieces, furniture and interior items from all over India, many of them antiques. Even if you’re not planning on buying anything, just pop in and prepare to be awed. Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm.

clockwise from top left ostrich eggs for sale; shopping on long street; beach towels in port elizabeth; tribal mask

Books

South Africa has some very talented authors, and there are good, locally published novels as well as volumes on history, politics and natural history. Exclusive Books is the main chain you’ll find in the airport and malls, while Upper Long St has several secondhand bookshops and a couple of notable independent bookshops.

Book Lounge 71 Roeland St booklounge.co.za; map. The most congenial central bookshop, with comfy sofas and a downstairs café, stocks an excellent selection of local books and an imaginative list of imported titles, as well as hosting launches and stimulating events with local writers and intellectuals. Mon–Fri 8.30am–7.30pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm.

Clarke’s Bookshop 199 Long St clarkesbooks.co.za; map. The best place in Cape Town for Africana has well-informed staff who can help you find what you want among the huge selection of local titles covering literature, history, politics, natural history, the arts and more. It also deals in out-of-print and collectors’ editions of South African books. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–1pm.

Exclusive Books Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront exclus1ves.co.za; map. Though small by British and American standards, Exclusive Books’ well-stocked shelves include magazines and a wide choice of coffee-table books on Cape Town and South African topics. There are also branches in the Cavendish Square (Claremont) and Constantia Village malls, though their opening times may vary. Daily 9am–9pm.

Kirstenbosch Shop Gate 1 & Gate 2, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Rhodes Dr, Newlands sanbi.org. A good selection of natural-history books, field guides and travel guides covering southern Africa, as well as a range of titles for kids. You don’t need a Gardens ticket to browse. The shop inside Gate 2 is smaller than the one inside Gate 1. Gate 1 daily 9am–6pm; Gate 2 daily 9am–4.30pm.

Wordsworth Books Gardens Centre, off Mill St, Gardens; map; 395 Main Rd, Sea Point; map wordsworth.co.za. A good general bookshop, with a strong selection of literature and travel. Both stores Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm.

Neighbourhood Food and craft markets

Evening and weekend markets are weekly rituals for lovers of fresh air and food in Cape Town and the Winelands, with an ever-changing array of popular neighbourhood markets. Browse interesting craft and food stalls, grab breakfast, a gourmet burger or craft beer and often catch some live music. Most of the markets fill up as the day or evening wears on, so get there as early as possible. Also check out the excellent and family-friendly markets on Winelands estates such as Blaauwklippen, Lourensford and Vergenoegd Löw.

Bay Harbour Market 31 Harbour Rd, Hout Bay bayharbour.co.za; map. Hout Bay’s lively weekend market fills a cavernous old fish factory with stalls selling African crafts and local designer clothes, alongside a host of artisan food traders – one even offering oysters and bubbly – and live acoustic acts. Fri 5–9pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–4pm.

Blue Bird Garage Food & Goods Market 39 Albertyn Rd, Muizenberg bluebirdgarage.co.za; map. A lively Friday-night institution in the south, with stalls selling food, wine, craft beer, clothing and jewellery, often accompanied by live music, in a former aeroplane hangar next to the railway line. Fri 4–10pm.

Hope Street (City Bowl) Market 14 Hope St citybowlmarket.co.za; map. This indoor market’s popularity has fluctuated over the years, but it remains a Thursday-evening staple, as much about meeting for a beer as grazing. Entering the market hall is a sensory experience, with jam-packed stalls laden with everything from curries to burgers and a live band creating a bubbly atmosphere. Take your pick from the mouthwatering options, then grab a spot at one of the communal tables. Thurs 4.30–8.30pm.

Mojo Market 30 Regent Rd, Sea Point facebook.com/TheMojoMarket; map. Beneath Sea Point’s colourful Mojo Hotel, the city’s newest market has 45 craft, design and fashion stalls in addition to twenty food vendors, a fresh produce section, 24hr coffee shop, three bars and live entertainment. Daily 8am–11pm.

Neighbourgoods Market Old Biscuit Mill, 373–375 Albert Rd neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za; map. For over a decade, this Victorian warehouse has been one of the best places to experience the Cape’s serious foodie credentials. Arrive when it opens to beat the devoted crowds, and wander around marvelling at the array of artisanal cheese, wood-fired bread, coffee, beer, fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables. Not cheap, but it sells the best produce of its kind in the Cape, as well as exceptional local designer crafts, homewares and clothing. Sat 9am–3pm.

Oranjezicht City Farm Market Beach Rd, Granger Bay waterfront.co.za/Shop/markets; map. Despite its relocation from the mountainside farm to the Waterfront, locals pick up fabulously fresh organic produce at this market, stopping for a coffee and breakfast or lunch with a beer and sea views. Sat 9am–2pm, though produce sells out fast.

V&A Food Market Dock Rd, V&A Waterfront waterfrontfoodmarket.com; map. An enjoyable if commercialised lunch choice with forty stalls selling food from empanadas to ice cream in the historical Pumphouse. Daily 10am–6pm.

MUSIC

African Music Store 62 Lower Main Rd, Observatory facebook.com/TheAfricanMusicStore;map. Sadly relocated from its longstanding home on Long St, this small shop specializes in African music from around the continent. It also has a modest collection of instruments, such as shakers and thumb pianos. Mon–Sat 10.30am–5.30pm.

Mabu Vinyl 2 Rheede St, Gardens mabuvinyl.co.za; map. The aficionado’s choice for a great selection of both new and secondhand CDs, vinyl and even cassettes, of many genres. Since it featured in Searching for Sugarman, the Oscar-winning Rodriguez documentary, it has made a splash with tourists who drop by to see some musical history. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 11am–3pm.

Musica Cavendish Square, Claremont musica.co.za. A generalist musical megastore for mainstream pop purchases, as well as African music, classical, jazz, rock, DVDs and video games. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

Food and provisions

Buying food from one of the weekly neighbourhood markets is always fun, while well-stocked delis provide more options. Of the major supermarket chains, Woolworths, which you’ll find all over the city, is the most upmarket. It measures up to quality supermarkets in Western countries, with good food, bread and wine for picnics or packaged salads and microwaveable meals to eat at your lodgings. Otherwise look for a Pick n Pay or Spar. The larger branches of the better supermarkets have fishmonger counters, though by far the most atmospheric places to buy seafood are the Hout Bay and Kalk Bay harbours. Cape Town also has a sprinkling of stores specializing in health foods and modest selections of organic fruit and vegetables, which you will also find at Woolworths. Supermarkets tend to have decent wine at competitive prices, but for more interesting labels, there are some first-rate specialist wine merchants. Otherwise, you can buy alcoholic beverages at bottle stores (the equivalent of the British off-licence), though most close at 6pm on Saturday and all Sunday, so plan ahead.

Delis

Giovanni’s 103 Main Rd, Green Point; map. Excellent breads and Italian foods to take away and – if temptation overcomes you – there’s always the option of sitting down for a pavement coffee with a view of Cape Town Stadium. Daily 7.30am–8.30pm.

Melissa’s 94 Kloof St, Gardens melissas.co.za; map. Highly delectable imported and local specialities at this popular gourmet deli with the option of eating in. Three Southern Suburbs branches include Constantia Village Courtyard mall. Not cheap, but always worth it. Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 8am–6pm.

Organic Zone Lakeside Shopping Centre, Main Rd, Lakeside organiczone.co.za; map. Always fresh and well-stocked organic fruit and vegetables, as well as grains, honey, breads and dairy products. Reasonably priced for the quality. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 8am–5pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

Fresh fish

Fish Market Mariner’s Wharf, Hout Bay Harbour; map. Fresh seafood from South Africa’s original waterfront emporium, although it’s slicker and less atmospheric than Kalk Bay Harbour. Daily 10am–8.30pm.

Kalk Bay Fish Market Kalk Bay Harbour, off Main Rd, Kalk Bay; map. Buy fresh fish directly from the fishermen and have it gutted and scaled on the spot. Your best bet is during the morning, especially at weekends, though catches are dependent on several factors including the weather and rough seas, so you may not get any. Yellowtail fish are in good supply and excellent cooked on a braai. Daily 9am–5pm.

Wine

Caroline’s Fine Wines 62 Strand St; map; Forest Glade House, Tokai Rd, Tokai carolineswine.com. Caroline Rillema has been in the wine business for decades and stocks the Cape’s finest and most exclusive wines, with prices ranging from under R100 to over R1000. 62 Strand St Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; Tokai Mon–Fri 9.30am–6pm, Sat 9.30am–1.30pm.

Vaughan Johnson’s Dock Rd, V&A Waterfront vaughanjohnson.co.za; map. One of Cape Town’s best-known wine shops, with a range of South African wines from far and wide, although it can be pricey. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

Wine Concepts Lifestyle on Kloof Centre, 50 Kloof St, Gardens; map; Cardiff Castle, cnr Kildare Rd and Main St, Newlands; wineconcepts.co.za. An excellent selection of South African and foreign wines from a knowledgeable and helpful outfit, with local estates often offering tastings. Lifestyle on Kloof Centre Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 9am–5pm; Newlands Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–4pm.

Malls and shopping centres

South African shopping tends to follow the American model, with malls offering a sterile and safe indoor environment for browsing, banking and eating. The Waterfront, however, offers waterside cafés and fabulous views.

Blue Route Mall Tokai Rd, Tokai blueroutemall.co.za. Major retailers and supermarkets are represented here, handy if you’re staying in Constantia or along False Bay. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

Cape Quarter 27 Somerset Rd, De Waterkant capequarter.co.za; map. This upmarket centre has a range of shops and boutiques selling everything from everyday essentials to quality souvenirs. It’s also a pleasant coffee stop. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–2pm.

Cavendish Square Vineyard Rd, Claremont cavendish.co.za. An upmarket multistorey complex, the major shopping focus for the Southern Suburbs. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

Constantia Village Main Rd, Constantia constantiavillage.co.za. Small, exclusive mall including two supermarkets, a post office and general, practical shopping facilities. Next door is the similar Constantia Village Courtyard mall (constantiavillagecourtyard.co.za). Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm.

Gardens Centre off Mill St, Gardens gardensshoppingcentre.co.za; map. Close to the Company’s Garden and city centre, this is a good-sized shopping mall with a broad selection of shops including two large supermarkets, a bookstore, pharmacy, opticians and local South African craft and fashion stores. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm.

Victoria Wharf Breakwater Boulevard, V&A Waterfront waterfront.co.za; map. It would be possible to visit Cape Town and never leave the Waterfront complex, which has a vast range of upmarket shops packed into the Victoria Wharf mall. You’ll find the major South African chains, selling books, clothes, food and crafts, as well as two cinemas, one with art-house films. Daily 9am–9pm.

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