1.1 Boy Capel, Léon de Laborde, and Chanel, ca. 1908. (Edmonde Charles-Roux collection)
1.2 Arthur “Boy” Capel with Chanel, Balsan’s Château Royallieu. (Collection Sirot-Angel)
1.3 Cartoonist SEM’s illustration of Chanel at Boy Capel’s mercy, ca. 1910. (SPADEM, Paris)
2.1 Misia Godebska, 1905. (Lebrecht Music & Arts)
2.2 Composer Igor Stravinsky and ballet dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, Paris, 1911. (Lebrecht Music & Arts/Corbis)
2.3 Misia dressed as a man, ca. 1910. (Lebrecht Music & Arts)
2.4 Lieutenant Hans Günther von Dincklage and fellow officers, ca. 1917. (Courtesy Michael Foedrowitz)
2.5 Chanel, 1920. (Pictures, Inc./Getty)
2.6 Impresario Sergei Diaghilev and composer Igor Stravinsky, Seville. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
2.7 Jean Cocteau with Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Leon Woizikowsky, and Bronislava Nijinska, London. (Photo by Sasha. Hulton Archive/Getty)
2.8 Grand Duke Dimitri, 1910. (RIA Novosti)
2.9 The hallmark Chanel No. 5 flacon. (Musée Carnavalet/Roger-Viollet)
2.10 Pierre Wertheimer, 1928. (Keystone/Gamma Rapho)
2.11 The poet Pierre Reverdy, 1940. (Albert Harlingue/Roger-Viollet)
3.1 Lady Dunn with Chanel and her dog Gigot. (Condé Nast Archive/Corbis)
3.2 Bendor, Duke of Westminster, and Chanel at the Grand National racetrack, May 1924. (Hulton Archive/Getty)
3.3 Chanel and Vera Bate, ca. 1925.
3.4 Chanel and Sir Winston Churchill at the Duke of Westminster’s Eaton Hall, 1929. (Hugo Vickers Collection)
3.5 Chanel in hunting dress with Winston Churchill and his son, Randolph, in France, 1928. (UPI/Bettmann News Photos, New York)
3.6 Serge Lifar, as Vestris, wearing a costume designed by Chanel, June 1939. (Boris Lipnitzki/Roger-Viollet)
3.7 Maximiliane von Schoenebeck, “Catsy,” the wife of Baron von Dincklage, ca. 1930. (Photo by Walter Bondy. Ville de Toulon, France, Bibliothèque Municipale, Fonds Bondy)
3.8 French naval lieutenant Charles Coton and wife, Léa, mid-1930s. (Courtesy Walter Bondy)
4.1 With Ina Claire, Hollywood, 1931. (Bettmann/Corbis)
4.2 Gloria Swanson in Tonight or Never. (United Artists/Photofest)
4.3 Robert Greig and Gloria Swanson in Tonight or Never. (United Artists/Photofest)
4.4 Paul Iribe, 1924. (Paramount Pictures/Photofest)
4.5 Mila Parély and Nora Gregor in Rules of the Game, 1939. (Cine Classics Inc./Photofest)
4.6 Madge Evans, Ina Claire, and Joan Blondel in the 1932 film The Greeks Had a Word for Them. (United Artists/Photofest)
5.1 Suzanne and Otto Abetz with René de Chambrun, September 1941. (Roger-Viollet)
5.2 Baron von Dincklage, ca. 1935. (Courtesy Mme Edmonde Charles-Roux.)
5.3 Le Témoin illustration.
5.4 “Spatz” von Dincklage and Hélène Dessoffy, the French Riviera, ca. 1938. (Photo from Them, by Francine du Plessix Gray)
6.1 Chanel’s employees struck and closed her business, 1936. (Keystone/Gamma-Rapho)
6.2 Misia Sert, 1937. (Photo François Kollar)
6.3 The Duke of Windsor and his bride, the former Wallis Simpson, greeted by Adolf Hitler, 1936. (Courtesy Archives Ullstein Bild)
7.1 Chanel’s grand-niece Gabrielle Palasse. (Mme Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie private collection)
7.2 André Palasse, Chanel’s nephew, Paris. (Mme Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie private collection)
7.3 Nazi führer Adolf Hitler, Eiffel Tower, June 1940.
7.4 The Nazi swastika above the building of the French Interior Ministry in occupied Paris, January 1940. (Ullstein Bild/Roger-Viollet)
7.5 German officers, Paris Opéra, ca. 1940. (Keystone France/Gamma-Rapho)
7.6 Correspondence from German Military Headquarters, Paris. (Archives nationales, Paris, AJ/40/871)
7.7 List of civilians allowed by Nazis to room at the Hôtel Ritz. (CARAN AJ/40/871)
7.8 Dining room of the Hôtel Ritz, 1939. (Roger-Viollet)
7.9 Starving Parisians searching for food and scraps in the garbage, September 1942. (LAPI/Roger-Viollet)
8.1 French document revealing Vaufreland was “an intimate friend of Chanel.” (Centre historique des archives)
8.2 Dincklage’s protégé, Baron Louis de Vaufreland. (French National Archives)
8.3 Police intelligence report showing Chanel’s Abwehr agent number and code name. (Préfecture de Police, Paris, BA1990, “Chanel”)
8.4 Sonderführer Albert Notterman, 1947. (Private collection)
9.1 H. Gregory Thomas, World’s Fair, New York, 1939. (New York World’s Fair 1939–1940 records, Manuscripts and Archives Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations.)
10.1 Abwehr major Theodor Momm, ca. 1947. (Courtesy Michael Foedrowitz.)
10.2 German Abwehr agent Count Joseph von Ledebur-Wicheln, 1944. (National Archives, Kew)
10.3 SS headquarters, Berlin. (Courtesy Michael Foedrowitz)
10.4 SS general Walter Schellenberg, Himmler’s chief of SS intelligence. (Courtesy Michael Foedrowitz)
10.5 Document from Chanel’s police file. (Préfecture de Police, Paris, France. BA1990, “Chanel”)
10.6 SS captain Walter Kutschmann in civilian dress. (From the private collection of Michael Foedrowitz)
10.7 Letter from Henry Hankey forwarding Chanel’s letter to Winston Churchill’s personal secretary, January 1944. (Charwell Trust 20/198)
11.1 German officers, Paris, August 1944. (Keystone/Getty Images)
11.2 Two women bearing Nazi swastikas on their shorn heads. (Three Lions/Getty Images)
11.3 Top secret personal telegram from Winston Churchill in Moscow, October 1944. (The Sir Winston Churchill Archive Trust, CHAR 20/198A)
11.4 Top secret dispatch from British diplomat, December 1944. (The Sir Winston Churchill Archive Trust, CHAR 20/198A)
11.5 Letter from Allied Force Headquarters, Paris, reporting to London, December 1944. (Chartwell Trust)
11.6 Dincklage, 1944. (Swiss National Archives)
11.7 Index card from French archives with Chanel’s name handwritten. (French National Archives)
11.8 A jury trial in session, Palais de Justice, Paris. (Albert Harlingue/Roger-Viollet)
11.9 Rosencrantz estate near Kiel. (Courtesy Michael Foedrowitz)
12.1 Walter Schellenberg, 1945. (U.S. National Archives).
12.2 Chanel and Dincklage, Switzerland, 1949. (Bridgeman Art Library)
12.3 The rue Cambon staircase from the Broadway musical Coco, 1970. (Cecil Beaton—Camera Press London)
12.4 Chanel, in spectacles, watches a fashion show from her spiral staircase on rue Cambon. (Photo 12/DR)
12.5 Cecil Beaton sketch. (National Portrait Gallery, London)
12.6 Claude Pompidou, 1962. (Jean Mounicq/Roger-Viollet)
epl.1 Delphine Seyrig in Last Year at Marienbad. (Astor Pictures Corp./Photofest)
epl.2 Jeanne Moreau in Louis Malle’s 1958 film The Lovers. (Zenith International Films/Photofest)
epl.3 Romy Schneider in Boccaccio ’70. (Embassy Pictures Corp./Photofest)