autumn at Strawbery Banke
lupine blossoms
The Best of Maine, Vermont & New Hampshire
Wild Places: Shores and Summits
Ogunquit’s Marginal Way.
Imagine yourself in New England: walking a dirt road lined with brilliant maple leaves, watching a rocky shoreline from a slender lighthouse, or beside a white-steepled church on a village green.
All lined up along the international border, Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire claim a lion’s share of the region’s most iconic scenes. And while there are vibrant cities to explore here—especially the thrumming coastal hub of Portland—the spirit of the three states lies in their small towns, mountains, and the seemingly endless coastline.
Drive the shore of New Hampshire and Maine to see lobster traps piled high, as locals line up at summertime seafood shacks. Vermont’s back roads lead to maple sugar shacks and dairy farms, and rivers in all three states invite swimming on warm afternoons.
Winter storms blanket the high mountains in deep drifts of snow, so travelers willing to brave the cold are rewarded with great skiing and riding, or can bundle up for a trip through the hills by horse-drawn sleigh.
And while all of New England lights up in the fall, the varied terrain in the northern states means even more dramatic contrasts and gorgeous foliage. Whether you’re looking for outdoor adventures, farm-to-table dining, or the perfect autumn drive, Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire offer a lifetime of escapes.
tugboats in Portsmouth
Killington Peak
1 Acadia National Park: Catch America’s first sunrise from Cadillac Mountain, then find a million tide pools in this historic national park (click here).
2 Fall Foliage: The changing colors spread from north to south; chase them from Vermont’s extravagant maple forests to the fiery hues of New Hampshire’s White Mountains (click here).
3 Hiking New Hampshire’s White Mountains: Hike through a rocky landscape of summits, valleys, and plants found nowhere else (click here).
4 Maine Lobster Feasts: Whether you’re dining on reinvented lobster rolls or sitting down to a traditional feast, these crustaceans are quintessential New England (click here).
5 Skiing and Snowboarding in Vermont’s Green Mountains: Choose your mountain—Vermont’s peaks offer some of the finest skiing and riding in the region (click here).
6 Burlington’s Breweries: Vermont has more breweries per capita than any other state, and many of its award-winning craft beers (and ciders!) are only available locally (click here).
Rolling hills rise into the peaks of the Green Mountains, a forested landscape that enfolds apple orchards, sugar maples, and dairy farms. Life in Vermont is defined by the seasons: Sugarmakers boil sap into maple syrup in the early spring, fall foliage ignites the trees, and winter brings skiers for New England’s finest skiing and riding. Not that it’s all maple syrup and cheddar—the offbeat state has a culture all its own, from its insistently liberal values to circus schools, cutting-edge craft beer, and endless opportunities for outdoor adventures.
fall foliage and the Stowe Community Church in Stowe, Vermont
Despite a fierce culture of independence, the Granite State’s not entirely insulated from the outside world—New Hampshire extends a slender arm of land to the ocean that shouldn’t be overlooked. Easily walkable and fun to explore, Portsmouth is among the finest destinations in New England for an immersion in colonial and maritime history, while Hampton Beach is a whirlwind of tanning oil, fried dough, and cruising crowds. Just inland, the forested landscape is webbed with a vast network of lakes, from the hyped-up vacation towns on Lake Winnepesaukee to quiet Squam Lakes, where silent mornings are broken only by the sound of calling loons.
Bare rocky peaks emerge from the forest in the rugged heart of the state, where the Presidential Range sets the stage for Mount Washington, the tallest mountain in New England. The fierce alpine zone is home to tiny flowers found nowhere else on earth, but it’s surprisingly easy to reach: by car, wood-powered railway, or on foot, following one of the steep tracks that wind through the Whites. It’s not all sweaty adventures, though, since historic hotels, swimming holes, and one of the region’s most scenic drives offer a relaxing alternative to a weekend of peak-bagging.
From the seaside chic of downtown Portland to a fractured map of bays, peninsulas, and harbors, coastal Maine invites long days of exploring. Catch sunrise at a whitewashed lighthouse, or survey the very best lobster rolls from Kittery to Camden. Hop a schooner for a downwind run, then find your own perfect beach for an afternoon in the sand (or rocks). This is one of New England’s most popular tourist destinations, but the scale of the coast gives everyone some breathing room: Once you get beyond the vacation towns that line Route 1, an untouched version of Maine beckons down long, narrow roads that all seem to lead to the sea.
Sprawling from Mount Desert Island to the facing mainland, Acadia National Park is unlike any other. Bare pink granite peaks dip into alpine lakes, all with views across the Atlantic coast. The top of Cadillac Mountain catches some of America’s first light, and a network of carriage trails means the whole thing can be reached by bicycle, or on foot. Continue past Acadia and you’re in the thick of Downeast Maine: a long, quiet coast that ends in the fishing outpost of Lubec, whose candy-striped West Quoddy Head Light is the easternmost point in the continental United States.
Dramatic seasonal changes transform New England—but there’s no bad time to visit. When schools let out in late June, the region’s high season begins. Everyone heads to the beach—or the mountains—and prices spike around the region. Some of New England’s sweetest experiences are pure summertime: finding swimming holes to beat the heat, and visiting the seasonal seafood shacks at the edge of the water. For the best of both worlds, plan a trip that overlaps with summer temperatures but bucks the crowds. Students disappear by late August and early September, the ocean is as warm as it’s gonna get, and prices dip until the arrival of leaf peepers.
Autumn brings cooler temperatures and one of New England’s starring attractions: fall color. The displays of bright leaves start to pick up at the end of September, with northernmost destinations reaching “peak foliage” in the middle of October. This season is a favorite for many, with warm, sunny days that alternate with crisp nights, and fall brings a host of fleeting pleasures: picking apples at local orchards, evenings cool enough for a crackling campfire, and outings fueled by cinnamon-scented cider donuts.
Winter weather begins in earnest at the end of December. The region can enter a deep freeze for weeks at a time—there’s usually one or two weeks in northern New England when the mercury shivers in the single digits (or below). But for lovers of skiing, skating, and gorgeously frozen scenery, those winter months are a bonanza. Bring plenty of clothes and you’ll be warm and cozy while riding the snowy peaks of the Green Mountains, or rolling through the hills on a horse-drawn sleigh.
Starting in the south, then moving north, March brings spring in fits and starts. Blooming lilacs scent the air, and in the forest, a profusion of wildflowers appears. While the weather stays fitful until well into May, there’s plenty to recommend the season. Throughout northern New England, but especially in Vermont, spring means maple syrup, and visiting between late February and early April is the chance to taste the region’s sweetest harvest straight from the pan. And maple syrup’s not the only seasonal treat: A recent wave of interest in foraged foods mean springtime restaurant menus feature woodsy ingredients like ramps, a kind of wild onion, and fiddleheads, the bright green tendrils of ostrich ferns.
The easiest place to fly into for launching a trip in New England is Boston, though Portland, Maine, is another major hub for the area. International visitors will need valid passports or visas to fly into the United States. If you are renting a car in any city, plan to pick it up after spending time there, as paid parking and crowded streets makes it easier to explore by public transport.
Blending history, culture, and New England’s most gorgeous scenery, this two-week trip is a whirlwind introduction to the best of the region, from the lighthouses of Penobscot Bay to Green Mountain valleys. Starting in the maritime city of Portland means an instant immersion in Maine culture before diving into the charms of the Mid-Coast, then rising into the Appalachian Mountain Range. You’ll need a car to squeeze the hits into eight days.
Plan to arrive in Portland in time for a sunset sail across Casco Bay, hopping one of the city’s historic schooners, then wrap up the evening with a steaming bowl of clam chowder on the waterfront. If you’re itching to hit the town, visit a few of Portland’s great craft breweries, or dress up for drinks at the Portland Hunt & Alpine Club.
Take a morning walk through the Old Port, and if you’re up for more time on the water, take the mail boat route to the Casco Bay Islands for a glimpse of offshore life within sight of the city skyline. A seafood lunch at Eventide Oyster Co. is a must, followed by an afternoon of browsing the wonderful Portland Museum of Art.
Wake up early for a sweet breakfast from the Holy Donut, then plot a course along the shore—make your first destination the Maine Maritime Museum, in the shipbuilding city of Bath. When you’ve got your fill of salty history, duck down onto Georgetown Island for a classic lobster roll at Five Islands Lobster Co. From there, continue to the picturesque harbor town of Camden, stopping to stretch your legs on the short walk to Owl’s Head Light.
the schooner Lewis R. French by Owl’s Head
As the first cold days arrive in the beginning of autumn, the weather frosts the tips of trees with a wash of pale yellow and orange. It’s an early sign of the changing season. Weeks later, the forests will be alight in brilliant hues, a display that can be shocking in its vividness.
Experiencing the changing colors is truly a highlight of exploring New England, but what’s really happening in the trees? Leaves get their verdant hue from a healthy dose of chlorophyll, a key ingredient in plants’ transformation of sunlight into sugars. As the season changes, chlorophyll dwindles, draining off the green color as it goes.
The yellow and gold that begins to appear are from carotenoids, plant pigments that have been in the leaves all along, but masked by the lush greens of midsummer. But what about the brilliant reds? Those are due to anthocyanins, the same brilliant pigments that lend cranberries, red apples, and cherries their vibrant hues. Anthocyanins are mostly produced in the autumn, and depending on conditions, trees might have just a little—or enough for a gaudy leaf show.
It’s hard to plan for the perfect fall trip, as varied weather conditions mean the leaves change at different times each year. Colors begin to change in mid-September, continuing through mid-October. The first color appears at northern latitudes and high altitudes, working south and toward sea level as the season progresses.
• Kancamagus Highway, New Hampshire: The twists and turns of this 34-mile road through the White Mountains passes through gorgeous forests that are brilliant in autumn.
fall colors in New Hampshire
• Mad River Valley, Vermont: A broad valley flanked with peaks on each side, this gorgeous spot offers wide-open views and easy access to higher-elevation terrain.
• Acadia National Park, Maine: Offset by the island’s many evergreen trees, fall colors are especially dramatic here, with kettle ponds and harbors to reflect the leaves.
Make a beeline for Mount Desert Island, where Acadia National Park encompasses some of the finest coastal scenery in Maine. On day one, choose a hike: Walk across the gentle sandbar to Bar Island, hop across the boulders on the Ship Harbor Trail, or try the vertiginous route up the Beehive, a mound of bare rock with views across the Penobscot Bay.
Ambitious travelers can rise early to catch sunrise from the summit of Mount Desert Island, which catches mainland America’s first rays for much of the year. Bring a bike or rent some wheels for a day on the carriage trails, then pause for a Mount Desert Island tradition: fresh popovers with sweet strawberry jam. If you’re hankering for a lobster dinner, there’s no better place than Thurston’s Lobster Pound, where you choose your bug from a tank of crawling critters, then eat with the waves beneath your feet.
Get a taste of backwoods Maine as you drive across the state to New Hampshire’s White Mountains, heading from the seaside all the way to the top of Mount Washington—by car, cog railway, or on foot. Whatever option you choose, make your way to the historic Omni Mount Washington Resort for sunset drinks on the broad balcony, with views back toward the mountains.
downtown Woodstock
Dust off your hiking boots for another day in the White Mountains: There are all-day epics like the Presidential Traverse, or you can meander the gentle trail to Diana’s Baths, a series of pools that are perfect for cooling off. For a more easygoing tour through the mountains, book a ticket on the Conway Scenic Railway, whose Notch Trail catches some of the region’s most dramatic scenery.
Duck into the southern Green Mountains, where you’ll trade rocky summits for lush valleys. Adorable Woodstock is the perfect village home for a night, with bright covered bridges, art galleries for browsing, and even an old-fashioned town crier message board. After getting your bearings, head to the nearby Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site to visit the presidential family home and cheese factory, then pause for beers at Long Trail Brewing Company, a local craft beer pioneer.
If you have time before heading home, stay in Vermont and explore more of the countryside. Go apple picking at the Scott Farm Orchard or head to the hills outside Montpelier for a tour of a maple sugarhouse.
Make a swooping descent through the finest of the region’s scenery, stopping to spy on moose, wander endless beaches, and trace perfect back roads on two wheels. There’s a lifetime of exploring to do in these wild places, but this trip includes the undisputed highlights.
Start where the Appalachian Trail ends—in the mountain landscape of Baxter State Park. Mount Katahdin isn’t New England’s highest mountain, but it’s certainly the toughest, especially if you take on the iconic Knife Edge, a vertiginous trail that teeters along a narrow ridge of boulders.
hiking Mount Katahdin’s Knife Edge
Rest your mountain legs on the drive to Mount Desert Island, where the hiking is a tad less punishing. You could push for a sunrise trek to the peak of Cadillac Mountain, or just take it easy on the shore, poking around the tide pools and beaches in Acadia National Park.
Choose your sport for day two: There’s stunning rock climbing that rises straight from the waves at Otter Cliffs, and on-island guiding companies can get you fully kitted out. Otherwise, take to the seas for a kayak trip along the edge of Mount Desert Island, watching for whales and seals along the way.
It’s back to wild peaks and footpaths when you head to the White Mountains, where the Presidential Range rises above all comers. The fittest travelers could take on the whole series of mountains—an enormous hike often called the “Death March”—but there are trails for all abilities, and plenty of rivers for post-walk soaks. Watch for moose as you hop from rock to rock, or join one of the moose-spotting tours that stalk the enormous animals in their favorite hangouts.
Bundle up for some time in the snow, and you’ll be amply rewarded—New England sparkles through the winter, and hours out of doors just make it sweeter to pass a long winter night by the fire.
• O’er the hills you go: Head to Vermont’s Shelburne Farms for an old-fashioned sleigh ride, complete with Percheron draft horses and jingling bells (click here).
• Get some turns in the Green Mountains: Vermont’s rolling terrain offers some of the best skiing and riding around, from the mammoth slopes of Killington Resort (click here) to the old school charms of the skier-only Mad River Valley (click here). And if you prefer to earn your turns, there’s endless cross country in the state, starting with the Stowe Mountain Resort (click here), still owned by the Austrian singers of Sound of Music fame.
skiing the Green Mountains
• Ski New Hampshire: The White Mountains of New Hampshire are excellent for skiing. Bretton Woods Mountain Resort (click here) offers stunning views from 97 trails, ranging from beginner to expert. Cannon Mountain (click here) boasts the longest vertical drop in the state.
• Have the run of Acadia: There’s not always enough snow on Mount Desert Island for cross-country skiing, but when the temperatures drop, you’ll have miles of carriage roads—and can lay tracks all the way to the top of Cadillac Mountain (click here).
From there, take a few hours to drive to Vermont’s Green Mountains. In the winter, visitors can ski and snowboard in the hills of the Mad River Valley at Sugarbush and Mad River Glen.
