| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
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| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
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Accommodations: See Paradores; Sleeping; and specific destinations
Admiral’s Hall (Sevilla): 658–659
Adolfo Suárez Barajas Airport (Madrid): 392, 487–488
Ainhoa (Ainhoa): 260
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 20, 27, 924
Airfares (airlines): 23, 959–960
Airports: Barcelona, 39, 152–154; Biarritz, 256; Bilbao, 221, 224; Gibraltar, 832; Granada, 571, 625; Madrid, 392, 487–488; Málaga, 808; Pamplona, 277; St-Jean-de-Luz, 237–238; San Sebastián, 191; Santiago, 343; Sevilla, 633; Tangier, 864–865; VAT refunds, 917–918
Alameda del Tajo Park (Ronda): 760–761
Alameda Market (Ronda): 770
Al-Andalus Life, Museum of (Córdoba): 721
Albayzín (Granada): 568, 574, 606–611; eating, 620–622; map, 608–609; safety, 611; sleeping, 618–619
Alcaicería (Granada): 574, 576–577
Alcazaba (Granada): 582–583, 589–590
Alcázar (Jerez): 785
Alcázar (Segovia): 510–512
Alcázar (Sevilla): 629, 639, 655–664; guided tours, 638, 657; map, 656
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Córdoba): 726
Algeciras: 845–846
Alhambra (Granada): 582–600; eating, 588; grounds, 597–599; guided tours, 573, 588; helpful hints, 586–588; maps, 586–587, 591; by moonlight, 590; orientation, 574, 584–586; planning tips, 583–584; reservations, 584–585; self-guided tour, 588–600; sleeping, 619; traveling to, 583
Alhambra Museum (Granada): 582, 588–589
Alhóndiga Bilbao: 228
Almanac: 895
Almonacid: 565
Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 411
Altamira Caves: 332–333
Ambasmestas: 269
American Embassy (Madrid): 456, 963
American Legation Museum (Tangier): 878–879
Americas, Museum of the (Madrid): 401, 453–454
Andalucía: at a glance, 742; cuisine, 8, 936; itineraries, 742; southern, map, 740–741; white hill towns, 17, 739–786. See also Córdoba; Granada; Sevilla
Anglican Church (Tangier): 871, 872–873
Antigua Chapel (Sevilla): 651
Apartment rentals: 925–929; Barcelona, 135–136
Apes of Gibraltar: 824–825
Apps: 26, 943; hotels, 921; maps and navigation tools, 918–919, 957; messaging, 943–944; review, 928; sightseeing, 920
April Fair (Sevilla): 635, 680, 681, 964
Aquariums: Barcelona, 63; Biarritz, 258; San Sebastián, 200
Aqueducts, Roman: 69; Segovia, 503, 509
Arab Baths (Granada): 606
Arab Baths (Ronda): 765–766
Arabic language: 854–855
Archaeological sites: Altamira Caves, 332–333; Pileta Cave, 766–767. See also Romans, ancient
Architecture: castles, 903; churches, 904; overview, 902–906. See also Modernisme; and specific architects and buildings
Archivo General de Indias (Sevilla): 664–665
Arco de Santa María (Burgos): 304
Arcos de la Frontera: 742, 743–754; eating, 753–754; helpful hints, 745; maps, 744, 746; nightlife, 751; self-guided walk, 745–751; sleeping, 751–753; tourist information, 743; transportation, 743–745, 754
Arenal Market (Sevilla): 683, 703
Armory (Madrid): 429
Army Museum (Toledo): 535, 543–544
Arnéguy: 273
Art (artists): overview, 902. See also specific artists and art museums
Artisan Market (Córdoba): 724
Art Nouveau: See Modernisme
Art Nouveau Museum (Salamanca): 376–377
Artxanda Funicular (Bilbao): 229
Ascain: 259
Assassination Attempt Memorial (Madrid): 411
Association of San Miguel (Arcos): 750
Astorga Cathedral: 323
Astrolabe Tapestry: 541
Asturias: cuisine, 936
Atapuerca: 305
Atlas Mountains (Morocco): 890
ATMs: 912–913
Atocha Station (Madrid): 387, 390, 483–485
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 961
Auritz: 274
Automobile History Museum (Salamanca): 377
AVE: See Train travel
Ave Maria Path (Montserrat): 166
Avenida de la Constitución (Sevilla): 629, 665, 687
Averroes: 725
Ávila: 518–524; eating, 523–524; map, 520–521; sights/activities, 519–523; sleeping, 523
Ávila Cathedral: 522
Ávila Wall: 519
Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel (Barcelona): 64–65, 122
Azabache: 343–344
Azkuna Zentroa (Bilbao): 228
Aznar, José María: 899–900
Baiona: See Bayonne
Balcony of Europe (Nerja): 791, 795–796; beaches, 798–800
Bandit Museum (Ronda): 763–764
Baños Árabes (Granada): 606
Baños Árabes (Ronda): 765–766
Baños del Alcázar Califal (Córdoba): 726
Barajas Airport (Madrid): 392, 487–488
Barcelona: 12, 29–157; at a glance, 50–51; arrival in, 39; beaches, 51, 122; eating, 136–152; excursion areas, 15, 158–179; helpful hints, 39–41; itineraries, 30–33; neighborhoods, 33–35; nightlife, 125–128; self-guided walks, 52–74; shopping, 122–124; sights, 75–122; sleeping, 128–136; tourist information, 35, 38; tours, 45, 47–49, 52; transportation, 39, 41–44, 152–157. See also specific neighborhoods
Barcelona Card: 38
Barcelona Cathedral: 51, 69–70, 77, 80
Barcelona City Hall: 72–73
Barcelona Head (Lichtenstein): 63
Barcelona History Museum: 51, 74, 83
Barcelona Maritime Museum: 50, 75–76
Barcelona waterfront: 34, 63–64, 120; eating, 151–152; map, 121
Barceloneta: 34, 63, 120; eating, 151–152; map, 121; nightlife, 128
Bar de los Jubilados (Guernica): 218–219
Barri Gòtic (Barcelona): 34, 76–83; eating, 144–147; guided tours, 45, 48; map, 66–67; nightlife, 126; self-guided walk, 64–74; shopping, 123–124; tapas, 146–147
Barrio del Cid (León): 313
Barrio Húmedo (León): 313
Barrio San Basilio (Córdoba), eating: 733
Barrio Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 629, 640–647, 665–666; eating, 698–699; Jews of Sevilla, 644; map, 641; self-guided walk, 640–647; sleeping, 688–689, 692
Barri Xines (Barcelona): 61–62
Basílica de la Macarena (Sevilla): 639, 674–676
Basilicas: See Churches and cathedrals
Basques: overview, 184–185
Basque Country: 15, 180–261; at a glance, 181; cuisine, 8, 186, 936; French, 235–261; itineraries, 181–182; language, 183; map, 182–183; Spanish, 187–235; transportation, 182–183. See also specific destinations
Basque Country Museum (Guernica): 216–217
Basque Culture, Museum of (Bayonne): 252–253
Basque Museum (Bilbao): 229–230
Baths: Córdoba, 726; Granada, 574, 581, 606; Ronda, 765–766
Bay of Biscay: 212–214
Bayonne: 181, 249–256; map, 251
Bayonne Ramparts: 254
Beaches: Barcelona, 51, 120; Biarritz, 256, 257, 258; Cadaqués, 177; Comillas, 333; Fuengirola, 811; Guéthary, 249; Lequeitio, 213; Marbella, 811; Nerja, 797–800; St-Jean-de-Luz, 243; San Pedro de Alcántara, 811; San Sebastián, 201–202; Sitges, 178; Tangier, 881; Tarifa, 838–839; Torremolinos, 811; Valdevaqueros, 839; Vejer de la Frontera, 787
Beer: 941
Belén Artístico (Arcos): 751
Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 457, 459–460
Betlem Church (Barcelona): 57–58
Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne Airport: 237–238, 256
Biarritz Fishermen’s Wharf: 258
Bidart: 249
Biking (bike rentals): Barcelona, 40–41, 49, 120; Bayonne, 252; Salamanca, 370–371; San Sebastián, 192; Sevilla, 636, 638; Tarifa, 834
Bilbao: 181, 219–235; eating, 233–235; helpful hints, 224; itineraries, 219; maps, 222–223, 231; sights, 225–230; sleeping, 230–233; tourist information, 220; tours, 224–225; transportation, 220–221, 235
Bilbao, Guggenheim: 225–228; eating near, 233; sleeping near, 230, 232
Bilbao Fine Arts Museum: 228
Bilbo: See Bilbao
Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 527, 533, 552, 554
Bishop’s Palace (Astorga): 321–322
Bishop’s Prison (St-Jean-de-Luz): 269
Black Virgin of Montserrat: 164–166
Block of Discord (Barcelona): 93, 96–100
Boat travel and cruises: Barcelona, 63, 76, 156–157; Bilbao, 225; ferries to Morocco, 845, 846, 857–859, 864; map, 950–951; St-Jean-de-Luz, 240–241; San Sebastián, 199; Sevilla, 640
Bocadillos de calamares: 408, 478, 480
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla (Jerez): 785
Bodegas Tradición (Jerez): 784
Books, recommended: 965–970
Boquería Market (Barcelona): 50, 58–60, 142–144
Bosch, Hieronymus: 436–437
Boulevard Pasteur (Tangier): 873–874
Bourbon Palace (El Escorial): 500
Breakfast: overview, 931–932
Bretxa Market (San Sebastián): 198–199, 210
“Bridge of the Queen” (Puente La Reina): 293
Budget tips: 23–24. See also Money-saving tips
Bullfighting (bullfights): 906–909; history of, 908; Madrid, 400, 458–459; Pamplona, 280, 283; Ronda, 758–760; Sevilla, 639, 680–681; Tarifa, 837
Bullfighting museum: Córdoba, 725–726; Madrid, 459; Ronda, 759–760; Sevilla, 639, 680–681
Bulls, Running of the (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Buñuel, Luis: 170, 171, 447, 902
Burgos: 265, 297–310; map, 298
Burgos Cathedral: 300–303
Burguete: 274
Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Greco): 535, 546
Burriana Beach (Nerja): 799, 807
Buses (bus travel): 953; budgeting, 23; map, 950–951. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 912
Caballerizas Reales de Córdoba: 729–730
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: 953–954; tipping, 917. See also specific destinations
Café Granja Viader (Barcelona): 58, 142
Café Iruña (Pamplona): 283, 290–291
CaixaForum (Barcelona): 50, 119
CaixaForum (Madrid): 452
Calahonda Beach (Nerja): 799
Calahorra Tower (Córdoba): 721
Calatrava, Santiago: 116, 221, 228, 295, 457, 906
Caliphate Alcázar, Baths of the (Córdoba): 726
Calle Agua (Sevilla): 643
Calle Agua de Albayzín (Granada): 610
Calle Almirante Ferrándiz (Nerja): 805–806
Calle Ancha (León): 313–314
Calle Cava Baja (Madrid): 477–478
Calle Cuna (Sevilla): 684
Calle de Jesús (Madrid): 476–477
Calle de la Estafeta (Pamplona): 281, 289
Calle de la Montera (Madrid): 403, 417, 470
Calle del Arenal (Bilbao): 234
Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 403, 413–416
Calle del Codo (Madrid): 409, 410
Calle del Perro (Bilbao): 233–234
Calle de Postas (Madrid): 405
Calle Ermita (Granada): 576, 577
Calle Herrera Oria (Nerja): 806–807
Calleja de las Flores (Córdoba): 721
Calle Jardines (Bilbao): 234
Calle Mayor (Madrid): 405, 410, 411
Calle Mayor (Puente La Reina): 292
Calle Nueva (Ronda): 770
Calle Real (Gibraltar): 831
Calle Reinoso (Sevilla): 645
Calle Reyes Católicos (Granada): 575
Calle Sagasta (Sevilla): 684
Calle San Jacinto (Sevilla): 678–679, 694
Calle San Lorenzo (Burgos): 307
Calle Santa María (Bilbao): 234
Calle Santa María la Blanca (Sevilla): 699–700
Calle Sierpes (Sevilla): 683–684
Calle Sombrerería (Burgos): 306
Calle Tetuán (Sevilla): 683
Calle Van Dyck (Salamanca): 383
Camarmeña: 337
Camino de Santiago: 15, 262–330; at a glance, 264–265; hiking, 269, 308–309; history of, 270–271; itineraries, 264–265; maps, 266–267, 274–275, 322–323; symbols, 282; tourist information, 266; tours, 266–267; transportation, 263–264. See also Santiago de Compostela; and specific destinations
Camper (Madrid), 461; (Sevilla), 683
Campillos: 767
Canaletes Fountain (Barcelona): 55–56
Cantabria: 331–337
Cantarriján Beach (Nerja): 800
Capilla del Carmen (Sevilla): 678
Capilla Real: See Royal Chapel
Carabeillo Beach (Nerja): 799
Carabeo Beach (Nerja): 799
Car insurance: 956
Car leasing: 956
Carmens, in Granada: 621–622
Carrefour (Barcelona): 56, 142
Carrer Ample (Barcelona): 123–124
Carrer de Bonsuccés (Barcelona): 124
Carrer de la Mercè (Barcelona): 127, 146–147
Carrer de la Palla (Barcelona): 69, 123
Carrer de la Portaferrissa (Barcelona): 57, 123
Carrer del Bisbe (Barcelona): 69–70, 72
Carrer del Bisbe Bridge (Barcelona): 72
Carrer de l’Esparteria (Barcelona): 124
Carrer del Paradís (Barcelona): 73–74
Carrer del Rec (Barcelona): 124
Carrer dels Banys Nous (Barcelona): 123
Carrer de Petritxol (Barcelona): 123
Carrer de Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 71
Carrión de los Condes: 310
Carthusian Monastery (Burgos): 305
Carthusian Monastery (near Granada): 574, 614
Car travel (driving): 25, 957–959; mileage and time, 955; navigation options, 957; road signs, 958; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also specific destinations
Cartuja de Miraflores (Burgos): 305
Casa Batlló (Barcelona): 51, 93, 96
Casa de Botines (León): 313
Casa de la Historia (San Sebastián): 200
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona): 70
Casa de los Picos (Segovia): 505
Casa de Murillo (Sevilla): 645
Casa de Pilatos (Sevilla): 670
Casa de Sefarad (Córdoba): 721–722
Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona): 51, 97
Casa Milà (Barcelona): 50, 97, 99–100
Casa Museu Amatller (Barcelona): 96–97
Casa Museu Salvador Dalí (Port Lligat): 175–176
Casas rurales: overview, 925
Casemates Square (Gibraltar): 815, 820–821, 830
Casita Museo de Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 416
Castell: 82
Castile: 297
Castillo de San Jorge (Sevilla): 678
Castle of Montjuïc (Barcelona): 113
Castrojeriz: 310
Catalan Art Museum (Barcelona): 50, 116–118
Catalan College of Architects (Barcelona): 69
Catalan language: 46, 47, 139; essential phrases, 47
Catalan Music, Palace of (Barcelona): 50, 92
Catalunya: cuisine, 7, 136–139, 936; overview, 46–47. See also Barcelona
Catedral de Barcelona: 50, 69–70, 77, 80
Catedral de Granada: 574, 578–579, 603–606
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 411
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cave Museum of Sacromonte (Granada): 574, 612–613
Cell phones: See Smartphones
Cenicero: 295
Centro de Arte Caja Burgos: 303
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 400, 445–451
Centro de Interpretación del Misticismo (Ávila): 522
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla: 666
Cervantes, Miguel de: 354, 564–565, 654, 901, 967
Chamartín Station (Madrid): 390, 483
Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aranazau (Ainhoa): 260
Chapel of Saint Agatha (Barcelona): 74, 83
Chapel of Saint Anthony (Sevilla): 649–650
Chapter Rooms (El Escorial): 496–497
Charles III: 286, 288, 402–403, 415, 500; biographical sketch, 424; Royal Palace (Madrid), 420, 423–428
Charles V: 375, 414, 440, 497, 498, 499, 508, 525, 539, 544, 601, 602, 658, 661, 896–897, 901; Alhambra (Granada), 582–586, 588–589; Wall (Gibraltar), 818, 820
Chefchaouen (Morocco): 889
Chiringuitos: 120, 128, 152, 179, 480
Chocolate: 97, 248, 253–254, 291, 413, 482–483, 624. See also Churros con chocolate
Chueca (Madrid): 481–482
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 904; Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 411; Astorga Cathedral, 323; Ávila Cathedral, 522; Barcelona Cathedral, 51, 69–70, 77, 80; Betlem Church (Barcelona), 57–58; Burgos Cathedral, 300–303; Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina), 292; Church of the Savior (Sevilla), 669; Granada Cathedral, 574, 578–579, 603–606; León Cathedral, 314–317; Lugo Cathedral, 330; Montserrat Basilica, 164–166; Pamplona Cathedral, 286–287; St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier), 871, 872–873; Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne), 253; St. Ginès (Madrid), 413; St. Jean-Baptiste (St-Jean-de-Luz), 244–245; St. Matthew (Tarifa), 834–835; St. Peter’s (Arcos), 750; Salamanca Cathedral, 371, 374; San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana), 801–802; San Esteban Church (Salamanca), 377–378; San Isidoro Church (León), 313; San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona), 287–288; San Salvador Church (Nerja), 796–797; San Saturnino Church (Pamplona), 287; Santa Ana Church (Granada), 580; Santa Ana Church (Sevilla), 679; Santa Anna Church (Barcelona), 65, 68; Santa María Church (Arcos), 747–748; Santa Maria del Mar Church (Barcelona), 51, 93; Santa Maria del Pi (Barcelona), 60, 126; Santa María la Mayor (Ronda), 761–762; Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro), 327–328; Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla (Sitges), 177; Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona), 70–71; Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao), 229; Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, 344–350; Santos Justo y Pastor (Segovia), 512; Segovia Cathedral, 509–510; Sevilla Cathedral, 639, 647–655; Toledo Cathedral, 534, 535, 536–540; Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia), 512
Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina): 292
Church of the Savior (Sevilla): 669
Churriguera, José Benito: 377
Churros con chocolate: 123, 291, 482–483, 624, 844–845, 931
Cibeles CentroCentro of Culture and Citizenship (Madrid): 452–453
Cinema Rif (Tangier): 872, 881–882
Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 416–417
Citadel Park (Barcelona): 122
City of Granada Orchestra: 571
City Under Siege (Gibraltar): 827
Clerecía Towers (Salamanca): 376
Clothing Museum (Madrid): 401, 454
Clothing sizes: 971
Colegio de Infantes (Toledo): 541
Columbus, Christopher: 74, 184, 374, 426, 456, 579–580, 593, 603, 658–659, 894; biographical sketch, 663; Monument (Barcelona), 62–63; tomb (Sevilla), 651
Comillas: 333–334
Concurso Popular de Patios Cordobeses (Córdoba): 709, 729
Consuegra: 564
Consulates: 963–964
Convent Guard Room (Gibraltar): 820
Convento de las Dueñas (Salamanca): 378
Convento de San Bernardo (Granada): 582
Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 522
Cooking classes: 49, 52, 193–194, 398–399
Córdoba: 17, 706–738; arrival in, 708–709; eating, 732–737; entertainment, 729–730; helpful hints, 709; history of, 716–717; itineraries, 706–707; maps, 708, 710–711, 734–735; sights, 712–729; sleeping, 730–732; tourist information, 707; transportation, 708–709, 737–738
Córdoba City Walls: 724
Córdoba Synagogue: 723–724
Corpus Christi Church and Convent (Madrid): 409
Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 508
Corral del Carbón (Granada): 574, 575
Cortés, Hernán: 901
Costa del Sol: 17–18, 789–847; history, 795; itineraries, 790; map, 790. See also specific destinations
Costs of trip: 23
Court of the Orange Trees (Córdoba): 712–713
Court of the Orange Trees (Sevilla): 653–654
Courtyard of the Dolls (Sevilla): 661
Courtyard of the Hunt (Sevilla): 657–658
Courtyard of the Lions (Granada): 594–595
Courtyard of the Maidens (Sevilla): 659–660
Courtyard of the Myrtles (Granada): 592
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cruz de Ferro (Mount Irago): 324
Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 519, 522
Cuesta de Gomérez (Granada): 615–616
Cueva de Altamira: 332–333
Cueva de la Pileta: 766–767
Cueva de Nerja: 800
Cuisine: 7–8, 929–932; Andalucía, 8, 936; Ávila, 523; Basque Country, 8, 186, 936; Catalan, 7, 136–139, 936; Córdoba, 732; Galician, 8, 363–364, 936; Granada, 619–620; Madrid, 471; Moroccan, 884–885; Ronda, 770; Salamanca, 381; Segovia, 514; Sevilla, 693–694; Toledo, 558. See also Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Currency and exchange: 912–913; Gibraltar, 817; Morocco, 854, 865–866
Customs regulations: 918
Dalí, Salvador: 48, 68, 122, 167, 174, 447, 902; biographical sketch, 170–171; House (Port Lligat), 175–176; Theater-Museum (Figueres), 169–173
Damascene, shopping for: 553
Dance: See Flamenco; Sardana dances; Zambra dance
Deba: 213
Del Salón Beach (Nerja): 798, 805
Descalzas Royal Monastery (Madrid): 430
Discounts: 912. See also Money-saving tips
Domènech i Montaner, Lluís: 50, 70, 92, 97, 107, 334
Donibane Lohizune: See St-Jean-de-Luz
Donostia: See San Sebastián
Don Quixote (Cervantes): 564–565, 967
Drinks: 937, 940–942. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
Dürer, Albrecht: 435
Eating: 7–8, 929–942; restaurant pricing, 930–931; Spanish restaurant phrases, 976; Spanish schedule, 8, 929–930; tipping, 917, 934, 937. See also Cuisine; Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Economy of Spain: 895, 899–902
Eixample (Barcelona): 34–35, 93–107; eating, 149–151; maps, 94–95, 136–137; nightlife, 128; shopping, 124; slepping, 134–135; tapas, 151
El Alma de Córdoba: 730
El Born (Barcelona): 34, 70, 83–93; eating, 147–149; nightlife, 127; shopping, 124
El Capricho (Comillas): 333–334
El Cid: 297, 301–304, 900, 968
Elciego: 295
El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), 65, 124, 142; (Granada), 572; (Madrid), 393, 396, 460, 480–481, 482; (Sevilla), 682
Electricity: 912; Gibraltar, 817
El Escorial: 492–500, 905; maps, 493, 495
El Greco: 195, 228, 497, 522, 525, 532, 539–540, 558, 671, 784, 902; biographical sketch, 547; bus tours, in Toledo, 532–533; Museum (Toledo), 535, 547–548; Prado Museum (Madrid), 440; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 535, 541–543; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 535, 546–547
El Martes (Toledo): 553
El País Vasco: See Spanish Basque Country
El Playazo (Nerja): 798
El Prat de Llobregat Airport (Barcelona): 39, 152–154
El Rastro Flea Market (Madrid): 401, 460–461
Els Quatre Gats (Barcelona): 68, 145
El Torno Pastelería de Conventos (Sevilla): 642, 655
E-mail: See specific destinations
Embassies: 963–964
Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Equestrian shows: 729–730, 782–784, 786
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 401, 454
Espacio Fundación Telefónica (Madrid): 417–418
Espadrilles, shopping for: 123
Espelette (Ezpeleta): 260–261
Estadi Olímpic (Barcelona): 116
Euro currency: 913
Europa Point (Gibraltar): 816
Euskal Herria: See Basque Country
Euskal Museoa (Bilbao): 229–230
Events: See Festivals
Exchange rate: 913
Ferdinand: 345, 359, 375, 385, 414, 426, 508, 539, 548, 550–551, 568, 579, 593, 644, 658, 661, 662, 664, 746, 896, 900; Royal Chapel (Granada), 574, 579, 601
Feria de Abril (Sevilla): 635, 680, 681, 964
Ferpal (Madrid): 414–415
Ferries to Morocco: 845, 846, 857–859, 864
Fès (Morocco): 889
Festivals: 964–965; Córdoba, 709; Granada, 571; Nerja, 800; Pamplona, 276, 277, 280, 284–285; Santiago, 343; Sevilla, 635, 636–637, 681; Sitges, 177
Fiesta de San Fermín (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Figueres: 168–173
Films, recommended: 968–969
Fishermen’s Wharf (Biarritz): 258
Flamenco: Arcos, 751; Barcelona, 126; Córdoba, 730; Granada, 613–614; Madrid, 400, 463; Nerja, 800, 802; Sevilla, 639, 671, 682, 684–687
Flamenco Dance Museum (Sevilla): 639, 671, 686
Foncebadón: 324
Font Màgica (Barcelona): 51, 118–119
Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Jamón; Markets; Marzipan; Mazapán; Nun-baked goodies; Percebes; Piments d’Espelette; Pintxos; Roast suckling pig; Serrano ham; Tapas; Tarta de Santiago; and specific destinations
Fort of San Bartolomé (Pamplona): 288
Fórum (Barcelona): 34
Fountain of Canaletes (Barcelona): 55–56
Franco, Francisco: 46, 82, 91, 113, 165, 172, 180, 187, 216, 237, 271, 342, 403, 413, 415, 419, 448, 450, 456, 498, 502, 503, 544, 602, 665, 820–821, 899, 901, 908, 966
Frederic Marès Museum (Barcelona): 51, 81
French Basque Country: 235–261; cuisine, 186; map, 182–183
Frigiliana: 801–802
Frómista: 310
Fuengirola: 811
Fuente Dé Cable Car: 336–337
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona): 51, 113, 116
Fundador Pedro Domecq (Jerez): 785–786
Funiculars (cable cars): Barcelona, 112, 113; Bilbao, 229; Fuente Dé, 336–337; Gibraltar, 823; Montserrat, 160–162, 167; San Sebastián, 202
Futbol: See Soccer
Galería de Arte San Pedro (Arcos): 750
Galicia: 262–263, 321–326, 338–366; cuisine, 8, 363–364, 936; language, 342. See also Santiago de Compostela
Galician Contemporary Art Museum (Santiago): 358
Galician folk-music concerts, in Santiago: 358–359
Galician People, Museum of the (Santiago): 358
Game of Thrones (TV series): 638
Garden of Earthly Delights (Bosch): 436–437
Gares: 292–293
Garganta del Cares: 335–336, 337
Gasparini Room (Madrid): 424–425
Gaudí, Antonio: 167, 313, 321–322, 333–334, 969; in Barcelona, 93, 96–97, 97, 99–111; Exhibition Center, 51, 81; guided tours, 45; Museum, 106–107; Palau Güell, 50, 61, 75; Park Güell, 50, 108–111; Sagrada Família, 50, 100–107
Gay community, in Sitges: 177–178
Gelmírez Palace (Santiago): 354
General Archives of the Indies (Sevilla): 664–665
Generalife Gardens (Granada): 582, 597–599
Gernika: See Guernica
Gernika Assembly House (Guernica): 217–218
Gernika Oak Tree (Guernica): 217–218
Gernika Peace Museum (Guernica): 215–216
Getaria: 213
Gibraltar: 812–832; arrival in, 815–816; eating, 829–831; embassies, 963; helpful hints, 817–818; itineraries, 814–815; maps, 813, 819; nightlife, 828; self-guided walk, 818–821; sights, 821–827; sleeping, 828–829; vs. Spain, 814; tourist information, 815; transportation, 815–817, 831–832
Gibraltar Moorish Castle: 827
Gibraltar Museum: 821
Gimeno (Barcelona): 58
Giralda Bell Tower (Sevilla): 639, 646, 653, 654–655
Girona-Costa Brava Airport: 39, 154
Golden Age: overview, 896–897
Gold Tower (Sevilla): 668
Golondrinas, in Barcelona: 63, 76
Gothic Quarter (Barcelona): See Barri Gòtic
Government of Spain: 895, 899–902
Governor’s Residence (Gibraltar): 820
Goya, Francisco de: 117, 228, 280, 446–447, 455, 539, 651–652; Prado Museum (Madrid), 441–444; tomb (Madrid), 401, 454
Granada: 12, 566–626; at a glance, 574; arrival in, 569–571; eating, 619–625; helpful hints, 571–572; itineraries, 567; maps, 568, 576, 608–609, 617; self-guided walk, 575–582; sights, 582–614; sleeping, 614–619; tourist information, 569; tours, 573, 575; transportation, 569–571, 572–573, 625–626
Granada Card Básico: 569
Granada Cathedral: 574, 578–579, 603–606
Granada Fine Arts Museum: 589
Granada Great Mosque: 574, 608–610
Granada International Festival of Music and Dance: 571, 589, 965
Granada San Francisco Parador: 598–599, 619
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors (Granada): 592–594
Grand Socco (Tangier): 869–872
Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona): 61, 125
Gran Vía (Granada): 579–580
Gran Vía (Madrid): 387, 417–419; map, 418–419; sleeping near, 465, 468
Gran Vía de Colón (Granada): 568–569, 579
Grazalema: 742, 776–780; eating, 779–780; map, 778–779; sleeping, 778–779
Grazalema Natural Park: 776–778
Great Mosque of Granada: 574, 608–610
Gros (San Sebastián): 189, 203–204; eating, 209–211; nightlife, 209–210; sleeping, 204
Guadalquivir River: 629, 677, 695, 698, 707, 720
Güell Park (Barcelona): 50, 108–111; map, 109
Guernica (Picasso): 214, 216, 448–450
Guernica (town; Gernika): 214–219
Guéthary: 249
Guggenheim Bilbao: 225–228; eating near, 233; sleeping near, 230, 232
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 960–961
Guitar, Spanish: See Spanish guitars
Guzmán el Bueno Castle (Tarifa): 835–837
Gypsies (Roma), of Granada: 613
Hall of the Abencerrajes (Granada): 595
Hall of the Ambassadors (Sevilla): 660–661
Hall of the Kings (Granada): 595–596
Hall of Two Sisters (Granada): 596
Hammam al Andalus (Granada): 606
Hammam El Bañuelo (Granada): 574, 581
Hemingway, Ernest: 274, 282–283, 288, 290–291, 399, 472, 967–968
Hermida Gorge: 335
Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 401, 454
Hiking (walking): Ainhoa, 260; Ávila, 519, 522; Bayonne, 254; Camino de Santiago, 269, 308–309; Cares Gorge, 335–336, 337; Gibraltar, 823; Granada, 583, 607; Montserrat, 166, 167; Nerja, 797, 798–799, 802; Picos de Europa, 337; Ronda, 764–766; San Sebastián, 202; Toledo, 528
Historic inns: See Paradores
History: 891–902; timeline, 892–893
Holidays: 964–965. See also Festivals
Holy Door (Santiago): 350
Holy Week: 835, 921, 964; Sevilla, 635, 636–637, 674, 676
Hondarribia: 191
Horses, of Jerez: 782–784
Horse shows: 729–730, 782–784, 786
Hospital de la Caridad (Sevilla): 639, 667–668
Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau (Barcelona): 107
Hospital de los Venerables (Sevilla): 665–666
Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs (Santiago): 345–346
Hostels: overview, 929. See also specific destinations
Hotels: overview, 922–925, 929; rates and deals, 921–922; reservations, 926–927. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
House of Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242
House of Siglo XV (Segovia): 508
House of the Moorish King (Ronda): 764–765
Huelgas Monastery (Burgos): 304–305
Human Evolution, Museum of (Burgos): 303
Hustlers, in Morocco: 853, 880
Ibeas de Juarros: 305
Iglesia del Salvador (Sevilla): 669
Immaculate Conception, doctrine of: 653
International Festival of Music and Dance (Granada): 571, 589, 965
Internet access: 947. See also specific destinations
Internet security: 946
Iron Cross (Mount Irago): 324
Iruña: See Pamplona
Irving, Washington: 577, 599, 968; Room (Granada), 596
Isabel: 345, 359, 375, 385, 414, 426, 508, 539, 548, 550–551, 568, 579, 593, 644, 658, 661, 662, 664, 746, 896, 900; Royal Chapel (Granada), 574, 579, 601
Isla de las Palomas (Tarifa): 838
Islam: overview, 852; Ramadan, 853–854
Islamic art: overview, 594
Islamic Córdoba: overview, 716–717
Isla Santa Clara (San Sebastián): 199
Itálica: 679–680
Itineraries: Andalucía, 742; Barcelona, 30–33; Basque Country, 181–182; Camino de Santiago, 264–265; Córdoba, 706–707; Costa del Sol, 790; designing your own, 19–22; Granada, 567; Madrid, 386; Morocco, 856–857; Sevilla, 628–629; Toledo, 526; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21
James, Saint: 72, 262, 270–271, 282, 302, 343, 346–350, 353; biographical sketch, 351; tomb, 350. See also Camino de Santiago
Jamón (ham): 7, 59, 138, 478, 933
Jardin del Convento (Madrid): 410–411
Jerez de la Frontera: 742, 780–786; map, 781; sights, 782–786; transportation, 780–782, 786
Jewish museums: Córdoba, 721–722; Sevilla, 666; Toledo, 535, 548–549
Jewish Quarter (Barcelona): 71–72
Jewish Quarter (Córdoba): 721–726; eating, 733, 736; map, 710–711; scavenger hunt, 722–723
Jewish Quarter (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Jews of Sevilla: 644
Joaquín Peinado Museum (Ronda): 764
John Mackintosh Cultural Centre (Gibraltar): 818, 820
Joy Eslava (Madrid): 413–414
Juan Carlos I: 415, 422, 427–428, 894, 901–902
Kasbah (Tangier): 879–880; sleeping, 882–884
Kasbah Museum (Tangier): 879–880
King Ferdinand: See Ferdinand
King Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 659–661
King’s Bastion Leisure Centre (Gibraltar): 818, 828
Knives, shopping for: 553
Kubo Gallery (San Sebastián): 202–203
Kukuxumusu (Pamplona): 281
Kursaal Conference Center (San Sebastián): 202–203
La Boquería Market (Barcelona): 50, 58–60, 142–144
La Cartuja (near Granada): 574, 614
La Concha Beach and Promenade (San Sebastián): 201
La Granja de San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 512–513
Laguardia: 294–295
La Hermida Gorge: 335
La Línea (Gibraltar): 829, 831
La Macarena (Sevilla): 639, 675
La Mallorquina (Madrid): 404, 480
La Mancha: 564–565
La Moreneta (Montserrat): 164–166
Language: 28, 898; Arabic, 854–855; Basque, 183; beverage terms, 940–941; breakfast terms, 931–932; Catalan, 46, 47, 139; dessert terms, 937; French, 239; Galego, 342, 898; online translation tips, 912; restaurant phrases, 976; survival phrases, 975; tapas terms, 938–939
Language barrier: 943
La Pedrera (Barcelona): 50, 97, 99–100
La Perla Spa (San Sebastián): 201
La Rhune (Larrun): 259
La Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
La Ribera Market (Bilbao): 230
Las Arenas (Barcelona): 51, 119–120
Las Meninas (Velázquez): 437–438
L’Atelier du Chocolat (Bayonne): 254
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 407–408
Laundry: See specific destinations
Lavapiés (Madrid): 457–458
Lekeitio: 213–214
León: 265, 297, 310–320; eating, 320; map, 312; sights, 311–319; sleeping, 319–320; tourist information, 311; transportation, 311, 320
León Cathedral: 314–317
León City Hall: 312
Le Pays Basque: See French Basque Country
Lequeitio (Lekeitio): 213–214
Liceu Opera House (Barcelona): 61, 125
Lichtenstein, Roy: 63
Lizarra: 293
Lonja Palace (Sevilla): 664–665
Lugo Cathedral: 330
Macarena (Sevilla): 674–676
Macarena, Basílica de la (Sevilla): 639, 674–676
Macho (Victorio) Museum (Toledo): 535, 549–550
Madinat Al-Zahra: 728–729
Madrid: 12, 385–489; at a glance, 400–401; arrival in, 390, 392; eating, 471–483; embassies, 963–964; excursion areas, 17, 490–524; experiences, 456–460; helpful hints, 392–393, 396; itineraries, 386; nightlife, 462–464; self-guided walks, 402–419; shopping, 460–462; sights, 419–455; sleeping, 464–471; tapas, 473–480; tourist information, 387, 390; tours, 398–402; transportation, 390, 392, 396–398, 483–489
Madrid History Museum: 401, 455
Madrid Town Hall: 410
Magic Fountains (Barcelona): 51, 118–119
Maids of Honor, The (Velázquez): 437–438
Mail: 947. See also specific destinations
Maimonides: 725
Málaga: 808–810
Málaga Airport: 808
Maps: See Map Index
Marbella: 811
Marès (Frederic) Museum (Barcelona): 51, 81
Mariano Zamorano (Toledo): 553
Marine Museum (Biarritz): 258
Maritime Museum (Barcelona): 50, 75–76
Markets: Arcos, 749; Ávila, 524; Barcelona, 50, 58–60, 70, 92–93, 142–144; Bayonne, 256; Bilbao, 230; Chefchaouen, 889; Córdoba, 724; El Escorial, 494; Gibraltar, 821; Granada, 610, 624–625; León, 313–314; Madrid, 406–409, 460–461, 480, 481–482; Marrakech, 889; Pamplona, 280; Rabat, 889; Ronda, 770; St-Jean-de-Luz, 238; Salamanca, 370, 383; San Sebastián, 198–199, 210; Santiago, 356–357; Segovia, 505, 516; Sevilla, 678, 682–683, 703; Tangier, 871, 873, 874–876; bargaining, 876; Tarifa, 845; Toledo, 553, 562
Markina: 213
Marks & Spencer (Gibraltar): 820, 830
Marqués de Riscal (Elciego): 295
Marrakech (Morocco): 890
Martorell i Montells, Joan: 334
Matisse, Henri: 880–881
Medina (Tangier): 861, 874–881; eating, 884–887; guided tours, 866–867, 869; map, 868; nightlife, 881–882; sleeping, 882–884
Medina Sidonia: 787
Mediterranean Steps (Gibraltar): 826
Mendoubia Gardens (Tangier): 871, 873
Mercado de la Bretxa (San Sebastián): 198–199, 210
Mercado de San Miguel (Madrid): 408–409, 480
Mercados: See Markets
Mercury Pond (Sevilla): 662
Metric system: 970–971
Metro: Barcelona, 41–44; Madrid, 396, 397, 488; Sevilla, 634
Mezquita (Córdoba): 707, 712–720; eating, 732; entertainment, 730; map, 714; sleeping, 730–731
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 545
Mezquita Mayor de Granada: 574, 608–610
Mihrab (Córdoba): 715
Military Heritage Centre (Gibraltar): 827
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada): 574, 607–608
Miramar Palace and Park (San Sebastián): 201
Miró, Joan: 60, 119–120, 451, 902; Museum (Barcelona), 51, 113, 116
Mobile phones: See Smartphones
Modernisme: 98, 906; Barcelona, 34–35, 38, 93–107; guided tours, 45; map, 94–95. See also specific architects
Moll Adossat (Barcelona): 156–157
Monasterio de Irache: 264, 293
Monasterio de la Cartuja (near Granada): 574, 614
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid): 430
Monasterio de las Huelgas (Burgos): 304–305
Monasterio de San José del Carmen (Sevilla): 645
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 535, 550–552
Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 492–500, 905; maps, 493, 495
Mondragón Palace (Ronda): 763
Money: 912–918; budget tips, 23–24; Gibraltar, 817; Morocco, 854, 865–866
Money belts: 27, 39, 911, 912, 916
Money-saving tips: 23–24, 912; Barcelona, 38, 143; sleeping, 921–922
Monistrol de Montserrat Station: 161–162
Monkeys of Gibraltar: 818, 824–825
Monte Igueldo (San Sebastián): 202
Monte Urgull (San Sebastián): 200–201
Montjuïc (Barcelona): 35, 64, 111–118; map, 114–115; nightlife, 128
Montjuïc Castle (Barcelona): 113
Montjuïc Communications Tower (Barcelona): 116
Montserrat: 158–168; eating, 168; history of, 165; map, 163; sights, 164–168; sleeping, 168; tourist information, 163–164; transportation, 160–162
Montserrat, Museum of: 166–167
Montserrat-Aeri Station: 160–161
Montserrat Basilica: 164–166
Montserrat’s Escolania: 168
Monument a Colóm (Barcelona): 62–63
Monumento al Encierro (Pamplona): 283
Monument to the Martyrs of Independence (Barcelona): 70
Moorish Baths (Granada): 574, 581
Moorish Castle (Gibraltar): 827
Moors: 270, 271, 894; architecture, 902, 905; cuisine, 7. See also specific sights
Morocco: 850–890; cuisine, 884–885; ferries, 845, 846, 857–859, 864; health concerns, 853; helpful hints, 853–855; itineraries, 856–857; map, 851; politics and safety, 851–854; tours, 856–857, 859–860; women in, 870. See also Tangier
Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario (Santiago): 354–355
Mosteiro San Paio (Santiago): 355
Mount Irago: 324
Movies, recommended: 968–969
Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 540
Muelle Adosado (Barcelona): 156–157
Murillo, Bartolomé: 228, 438–439, 643, 645, 648, 650, 652, 653, 667, 673, 902; biographical sketch, 650; House (Sevilla), 645
Musée Basque (Bayonne): 252–253
Museo Arqueológico Nacional/MAN (Madrid): 400, 453
Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco (Salamanca): 376–377
Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga: 809
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Granada): 574, 612–613
Museo da Catedral (Santiago): 350, 352–354
Museo das Peregrinacións e de Santiago: 357–358
Museo de América (Madrid): 401, 453–454
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 512
Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao): 228
Museo de Bellas Artes (Granada): 589
Museo de Bellas Artes (Sevilla): 639, 671–674
Museo de Burgos: 303–304
Museo de Història de la Automoción (Salamanca): 377
Museo de Historia de Madrid: 401, 455
Museo de la Alhambra (Granada): 582, 588–589
Museo de la Cerámica de Triana (Sevilla): 678
Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 400, 444–445
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Sevilla): 639, 671
Museo del Bandolero (Ronda): 763–764
Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 535, 543–544
Museo del Greco (Toledo): 535, 547–548
Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 478
Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 535, 545
Museo del Traje (Madrid): 401, 454
Museo de Nerja: 797
Museo de San Isidoro (León): 317–319
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 535, 541–543
Museo Joaquín Peinado (Ronda): 764
Museo Julio Romero de Torres (Córdoba): 727
Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): See Prado Museum
Museo Naval (Madrid), 401, 452; (San Sebastián), 199–200; (Sevilla), 668
Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 639, 670
Museo Picasso Málaga: 809
Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 535, 548–549
Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 400, 455
Museo Taurino (Córdoba), 725–726; (Madrid), 459; (Sevilla), 639, 680–681
Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo): 535, 549–550
Museo Vivo de Al-Andalus (Córdoba): 721
Museu Cau Ferrat (Sitges): 177
Museu d’História de Barcelona: 51, 74, 83
Museu Frederic Marès (Barcelona): 51, 81
Museu Maricel (Sitges): 177
Museu Marítim (Barcelona): 50, 75–76
Museum of Al-Andalus Life (Córdoba): 721
Museum of Basque Culture (Bayonne): 252–253
Museum of Human Evolution (Burgos): 303
Museum of Montserrat: 166–167
Museum of Navarre (Pamplona): 280
Museum of San Telmo (San Sebastián): 195, 198
Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 401, 453–454
Museum of the Galician People (Santiago): 358
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona): 50, 116–118
Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport (Barcelona): 116
Museu Picasso (Barcelona): 50, 84–92
Museu Romántic (Sitges): 177–178
Mutriku: 213
Mysticism Interpretation Center (Ávila): 522
National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 400, 453
Naval Museum (Madrid), 401, 452; (San Sebastián), 199–200; (Sevilla), 668
Navarre, Museum of (Pamplona): 280
Nerja: 790–810; eating, 804–807; helpful hints, 794; maps, 792–793; nightlife, 802; sights/activities, 795–802; sleeping, 802–804; transportation, 791, 794–795, 808–810
Nerja Caves: 800
Nerja Museum: 797
Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Notre-Dame d’Aranazau Chapel (Ainhoa): 260
Notre-Dame Gate (St-Jean-de-Luz): 270, 272
Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 411
Nun-baked goodies: 378, 410, 642, 655
Ocean Village (Gibraltar): 821, 828, 831
O’Hara’s Battery (Gibraltar): 825
Old Bridge (Ronda): 765
Old City (Barcelona): 33–34, 75–93; eating, 139–147; map, 54, 78–79, 130–131, 140–141; self-guided walks, 52–74; sights, 75–93; sleeping, 129–134
Old Town (Arcos): 743, 745–751; eating, 753–754; map, 746; nightlife, 751; sleeping, 751–752
Old Town (Bilbao): 220, 229–230; eating, 233–234; map, 231; sleeping, 232–233
Old Town (Granada): 575–582, 600–606; map, 576
Old Town (Ronda): 755, 761–766; eating, 770; sleeping, 768–769
Old Town (San Sebastián): 187–188, 194–199; eating, 205–209; map, 196–197; sleeping, 203–204
Old Town (Tangier): See Medina
Olive oil tour, around Granada: 573
Olympic and Sports Museum (Barcelona): 116
Olympic Stadium (Barcelona): 116
Orreaga: 273
Packing checklist: 973
Packing tips: 26
Paella feast, in Nerja: 807
Palace of Catalan Music (Barcelona): 50, 92
Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid): 452–453
Palacio de Mondragón (Ronda): 763
Palacio de Sobrellano (Comillas): 334
Palacio de Viana (Córdoba): 727
Palacio Real: See Royal Palace
Palacios Nazaríes (Granada): 582, 590–597; map, 591
Palau de la Generalitat (Barcelona): 72
Palau de la Música Catalana (Barcelona): 50, 92
Palau de la Virreina (Barcelona): 125
Palau del Lloctinent (Barcelona): 74
Palau Güell (Barcelona): 50, 61, 75
Palau Maricel (Sitges): 177
Palau Reial Major (Barcelona): 74
Pallozas: 326–327
Pamplona: 264, 275–291; eating, 289–291; festivals, 276, 277, 280, 284–285; helpful hints, 277; map, 278–279; self-guided walk, 280–283; sights, 286–288; sleeping, 288–289; tourist information, 276; transportation, 276–277, 291
Pamplona Airport: 277
Pamplona Cathedral: 286–287
Pamplona City Hall: 280–281
Pamplona Running of the Bulls: See Running of the Bulls
Pantéon Real (León): 318
Paradores: 925; Arcos de la Frontera, 752, 753; Granada, 598–599, 619; Santiago de Compostela, 359, 365; Santillana, 331–332; Toledo, 532, 558
Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona): 122
Parc Jean Moulin (St-Jean-de-Luz): 243–244
Pariès (Bayonne): 254
Park Güell (Barcelona): 35, 50, 108–111; map, 109
Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 401, 451
Partal Gardens (Granada): 597
Parte Vieja (San Sebastián): See Old Town
Paseo de la Alameda (Tarifa): 839
Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 456–457
Paseo de los Carabineros (Nerja): 798–799
Paseo de los Tristes (Granada): 574, 580–581, 623
Paseo Marítimo (Tarifa): 838, 843
Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona): 39, 93, 124
Passeig del Born (Barcelona): 124, 127
Patios: overview, 729
Patio de Arrayanes (Granada): 592
Patio de Banderas (Sevilla): 643, 664
Patio de la Montería (Sevilla): 657–658
Patio de las Doncellas (Sevilla): 659–660
Patio de las Muñecas (Sevilla): 661
Patio de los Leones (Granada): 594–595
Patio de los Naranjos (Córdoba): 712–713
Patio de los Naranjos (Sevilla): 653–654
Patio de los Reyes (El Escorial): 494–495
Pazo de Xelmírez (Santiago): 354
Pedrafita: 325–326
Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 659–661
Peinado (Joaquín) Museum (Ronda): 764
Peine del Viento (San Sebastián): 202
Pelota: 244
Petit Socco (Tangier): 874
Philip II Palace (El Escorial): 498–499
Philip’s Seat: 493
Phones: See Telephones
Picasso, Pablo: 69, 166, 448–451, 902; biographical sketch, 88–89; Guernica, 214, 216, 448–450; guided tours, in Barcelona, 45; Museo Picasso Málaga, 809; Museum (Barcelona), 50, 84–92
Picasso Tower (Madrid): 456–457
Pickpockets: 27, 39–40, 53, 392, 571, 916
Picos de Europa: 334–337
Pieros: 269
Pileta Cave: 766–767
Pilgrimage and Santiago Museum: 357–358
Pilgrimage to Saint James: See Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim Friends Office (St-Jean-de-Luz): 268–269
Pilgrims, Office for (Santiago): 346
Pintxos: 139–140, 143, 205–208, 209–210, 233–234
Pizarro, Francisco: 900
Plaça de Catalunya (Barcelona): 33, 39, 53, 55, 129
Plaça del Pi (Barcelona): 123
Plaça del Rei (Barcelona): 74
Plaça de Sant Jaume (Barcelona): 72–73
Plaça Nova (Barcelona): 68–69
Plaça Reial (Barcelona): 61, 126, 127
Plaça Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 70–71
Place de la Kasbah (Tangier): 880
Place Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242
Placeta de San Gregorio (Granada): 623
Plage de Corniche (Tangier): 881
Plague Monument (Córdoba): 720–721
Planelles Donat (Barcelona): 65
Playa Calahonda (Nerja): 799
Playa Carabeillo (Nerja): 799
Playa Carabeo (Nerja): 799
Playa Chica (Tarifa): 839
Playa de Burriana (Nerja): 799, 807
Playa de la Concha (San Sebastián): 201, 204
Playa del Cantarriján (Nerja): 800
Playa del Salón (Nerja): 798, 805
Playas Laga (Lequeitio): 213
Plaza de Bib-Rambla (Granada): 577–578
Plaza de Castilla (Madrid): 457
Plaza de Colon (Madrid): 456
Plaza de Doña Elvira (Sevilla): 646
Plaza de España (Arcos): 751
Plaza de España (Madrid): 419
Plaza de España (Medina Sidonia): 787
Plaza de España (Sevilla): 629, 677, 687
Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 412–413
Plaza de la Alianza (Sevilla): 646
Plaza de la Constitución (San Sebastián): 195
Plaza de la Encarnación (Sevilla): 670–671
Plaza de la Fuente Vieja (Frigiliana): 801–802
Plaza de la Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 645
Plaza de las Tendillas (Córdoba): 726–727
Plaza de la Trinidad (Granada): 616, 618
Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes (Sevilla): 641–642
Plaza del Cabildo (Arcos): 745–746
Plaza del Carmen (Madrid): 469–470
Plaza del Castillo (Pamplona): 276, 283, 289–290
Plaza del Mío Cid (Burgos): 304
Plaza del Salvador (Sevilla): 670, 684
Plaza del Socorro (Ronda): 770
Plaza del Triunfo (Sevilla): 642–643
Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 412
Plaza de San Martín (León): 320
Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 508
Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 458–459
Plaza de Toros (Sevilla): 680–681
Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 526, 540–541, 552, 554; eating, 559, 562
Plaza Isabel La Católica (Granada): 579–580
Plaza Larga (Granada): 610, 620
Plaza Mayor (Burgos): 304
Plaza Mayor (León): 313–314
Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 401, 406–408, 460; eating, 477–478, 479–480; map, 405; sleeping, 468–469
Plaza Mayor (Salamanca): 368, 370–371; eating, 382–383
Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 508–509, 513, 515
Plaza Nueva (Bilbao): 234
Plaza Nueva (Granada): 568, 580, 615; eating, 622–625
Plaza Nueva (Sevilla): 629, 668–669, 683; eating near, 702–703
Plaza San Isidoro (León): 313
Plaza San Marcelo (León): 312
Plaza San Martín (León): 312
Plaza San Miguel el Bajo (Granada): 611, 620–621
Police: 963
Ponce de León, Juan: 900
Port Lligat: 175–176
Post offices: 947. See also specific destinations
Pound sterling: 817
Prado Museum (Madrid): 400, 431–444; eating near, 476–477; map, 434; self-guided tour, 433–444; sights near, 451–453; sleeping near, 469, 471
Praza da Inmaculada (Santiago): 354–355
Praza da Quintana (Santiago): 355
Praza das Praterías (Santiago): 355–356
Praza do Obradoiro (Santiago): 345
Pronovias (Madrid): 416
Pronunciation guide: 974
Prostitution: 392–393
Puente del Carbón (Granada): 575
Puente la Reina: 264, 269, 292–293
Puente Nuevo (Ronda): 755, 761
Puente Viejo (Ronda): 765
Puerta del Perdón (Sevilla): 654
Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 387, 400, 402–405; eating, 476–477, 480–481; map, 405; sleeping near, 465, 468, 470
Puerta del Vino (Granada): 599
Puerto Banús: 811
Puerto de Ibañeta: 273
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep: 68, 96–97, 119, 145, 167
Pyrenees: 273–274
Quadrat d’Or (Barcelona): 35, 124
Queen Isabella: See Isabel
Queensway Quay Marina (Gibraltar): 828, 831
Rabat (Morocco): 889
Rail passes: 23, 25, 948, 949, 952, 960
Rail travel: See Train travel
Ramadan: 853–854
Rambla of Flowers (Barcelona): 58
Rambla of the Little Birds (Barcelona): 57
Ramblas (Barcelona): 33–34, 50, 52–53, 60–61, 75; eating, 139–142; guided tours, 45; map, 54; self-guided walk, 52–64; sights, 75–76; sleeping, 132–133
Real Fábrica de Tapices (Madrid): 453
Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 401, 452
Real Madrid: 416, 457, 459–460
Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda: 758–760
Recinto Ferial (Arcos): 751
Reconquista: overview, 894–896
Reial Cercle Artistic Museum (Barcelona): 68
Reina Sofía (Madrid): 400, 445–451
Renaixença: 98. See also Modernisme
Rental properties: 925–929; Barcelona, 135–136
ReservaTauro: 767
Reservations: sights, 25; sleeping, 25
Resources from Rick Steves: 960–961
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Retiro Park (Madrid): 401, 451
Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
Rif Cinema (Tangier): 872, 881–882
Roast suckling pig: 307, 381, 472, 514–515
Rock of Gibraltar: 822–825
Roma (Gypsies), of Granada: 613
Roman aqueducts: See Aqueducts, Roman
Roman Bridge (Córdoba): 721
Roman Bridge (Salamanca): 378
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 310, 589, 891, 894; Arcos, 749; Barcelona, 57, 64, 68–69, 70, 73; Córdoba, 721, 724–725; Itálica, 679–680; Lugo, 329–330; Salamanca, 378; Segovia, 509
Romero de Torres (Julio) Museum (Córdoba): 727
Roncesvalles Pass: 273
Ronda: 742, 755–774; eating, 770–773; helpful hints, 756, 758; maps, 757, 771; sights, 758–767; sleeping, 768–770; tourist information, 756; tours, 758; transportation, 756, 773–774
Rosemary scam, in Sevilla: 635
Route of the White Hill Towns: 739; map, 776–777
Royal Academy of Science and Arts (Barcelona): 56
Royal Alcázar (Sevilla): 629, 639, 655–664; guided tours, 638, 657; map, 656
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Jerez): 782–784
Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 401, 452
Royal Chapel (Córdoba): 717–718
Royal Chapel (Granada): 574, 579, 600–603
Royal Chapel (Madrid): 427
Royal Chapel Square (Granada): 579
Royal families of Spain: 414–415
Royal Palace (Barcelona): 74
Royal Palace (Madrid): 400, 412, 420–430; map, 421; self-guided tour, 422–430
Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 498
Royal Pantheon (León): 318
Royal St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro): 327–328
Royal Tapestry Factory (Madrid): 453
Royal Theater (Madrid): 412
Rúa do Franco (Santiago): 344, 364
Rubens, Peter Paul: 195, 354, 430, 439
Rue de la République (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242–243, 247
Rue d’Espagne (St-Jean-de-Luz): 272
Rue Gambetta (St-Jean-de-Luz): 243–244
Running of the Bulls (Pamplona): 276, 284–285; Monument, 283
Rusiñol, Santiago: 118, 166, 178
Sacred Art Museum (Santiago): 355
Sacred Cave (Montserrat): 167
Sacromonte (Granada): 611–614
Safety: See Theft alerts
Sagrada Família (Barcelona): 50, 100–107; map, 103
Sahagún: 310
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier): 871, 872–873
Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne): 253
St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 413
St. Jean-Baptiste Church (St-Jean-de-Luz): 244–245
St-Jean-de-Luz: 181, 236–249; eating, 247–248; helpful hints, 238; map, 240–241; self-guided walk, 242–245; sleeping, 246; tourist information, 237; tours, 238, 240–241; transportation, 237–238, 248–249
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: 264, 267–274
St. Martin’s Monastery (Santiago): 354–355
St. Matthew Church (Tarifa): 834–835
St. Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar): 825–826
St. Pelayo Monastery (Santiago): 355
St. Peter’s Church (Arcos): 750
Salamanca: 17, 367–384; eating, 381–384; helpful hints, 369–370; itineraries, 367; maps, 368, 372–373, 380; sights, 370–379; sleeping, 379–381; tourist information, 368–369; tours, 368; transportation, 369, 384
Salamanca Art Nouveau Museum: 376–377
Salamanca Card: 368–369
Salamanca Town Hall: 370
Salamanca University: 374–376
Samos: 328
San Agustín Market (Granada): 624–625
San Agustín Market (Toledo): 562
San Antonio de la Florida Hermitage (Madrid): 401, 454
San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana): 801–802
San Bartolomé Fort (Pamplona): 288
Sandeman (Jerez): 785
San Esteban Church (Salamanca): 377–378
San Fermín Txikito (Pamplona): 276, 277, 280, 284–285
San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 512–513
San Isidoro Church (León): 313
San Isidoro Museum (León): 317–319
San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 535, 550–552
San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona): 287–288
San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 492–500, 905; maps, 493, 495
San Miguel Market (Madrid): 408–409, 480
San Nicolás Island: 213
San Nicolás Viewpoint (Granada): 574, 607–608
San Pablo Airport (Sevilla): 633
San Pedro Church (Granada): 581–582
San Pedro de Alcántara: 811
San Román Church (Toledo): 545
San Salvador Church (Nerja): 796–797
San Saturnino Church (Pamplona): 287
San Sebastián: 181, 187–212; eating, 205–211; helpful hints, 192–193; itineraries, 188; maps, 190–191, 196–197; sights, 194–203; sleeping, 203–204; tourist information, 189; tours, 193–194; transportation, 189–192, 193, 211–212
San Sebastián Airport: 191
San Sebastián Aquarium: 200
San Sebastián Port: 199–201
Santa Ana Church (Granada): 580
Santa Ana Church (Sevilla): 679
Santa Anna Church (Barcelona): 65, 68
Santa Catalina de Zafra (Granada): 582
Santa Caterina Market (Barcelona): 51, 70, 92–93
Santa Cova (Montserrat): 167
Santa Cruz (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 535, 541–543
Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona): 63, 76
Santa María Church (Arcos): 747–748
Santa María del Mar Church (Barcelona): 51, 93
Santa María del Pi (Barcelona): 60, 126
Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 535, 550
Santa María la Mayor Church (Ronda): 761–762
Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro): 327–328
Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church (Sitges): 177
San Telmo Museoa (San Sebastián): 195, 198
Sant Felip Neri Church (Barcelona): 70–71
Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao): 229
Santiago de Compostela: 15, 17, 265, 338–366; eating, 363–366; helpful hints, 343–344; itineraries, 339; maps, 340–341, 360–361; shopping, 343–344; sights, 344–359; sleeping, 359–363; tourist information, 339; transportation, 342–343, 366
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral: 344–350; Museum, 350, 352–354
Santiago de Compostela City Hall: 346
Santillana del Mar: 331–332
Santiponce: 678
Sant Joan Chapel (Montserrat): 167
Sant Joan Funicular (Montserrat): 167
Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 265, 295, 296
Santo Domingo de Silos: 305
Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia): 512
Santo Tomé (Toledo): 535, 546–547
Sants Train Station (Barcelona): 39, 154–156
Sardana dances: 51, 81, 82, 165
Sare (Sara): 259–260
Sartre, Jean-Paul: 331
Scala Coeli (Salamanca): 376
Schweppes (Madrid): 418
Seasons: 27–28
Segovia: 503–518; eating, 514–516; helpful hints, 505; map, 506–507; sights, 505–513; sleeping, 513–514; tourist information, 504; transportation, 504, 516–518
Segovia Cathedral: 509–510
Semana Santa: See Holy Week
Seneca: 724–725
Serrano, Juan: 726
Sevilla: 14, 627–705; at a glance, 639; arrival in, 632–633; eating, 693–703; experiences, 680–682; festivals, 635, 636–637, 681; helpful hints, 635–636; itineraries, 628–629; maps, 628, 630–631, 641, 690–691, 696–697; nightlife, 684–687; self-guided walk, 640–647; shopping, 682–684; sights, 647–680; sleeping, 687–693; tourist information, 629, 632; tours, 637–638, 640; transportation, 632–635, 703–705
Sevilla April Fair: 635, 680, 681, 964
Sevilla Cathedral: 639, 647–655; map, 648; self-guided tour, 647–655
Sevilla City Hall: 668–669
Sevilla Fine Arts Museum: 639, 671–674
Sevilla University: 677
Ship Room (Granada): 592
Shopping: clothing sizes, 971; hours, 912; VAT refunds, 917–918. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 822, 826–827
Sierra de Atapuerca Mountains: 305
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park: 776–778
Sierra-Pambley Museum (León): 317
Sightseeing (sights): budgeting, 23; general tips, 918–920; maps and navigation tools, 918–919; reservations, 25; top destinations, 11–18; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also Itineraries; specific sights and destinations
Silla de Felipe: 493
SIM cards: 944–946
Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 535, 548–549
Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 535, 550
Sitges: 177–179
Sleep code: 922
Sleeping: 920–929; online reviews, 928; rates and deals, 921–922; reservations, 25, 926–927; types of accommodations, 922–929. See also Paradores; and specific destinations
Smartphones: 26, 942–946. See also Apps
Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 472
Soccer: 895; Barcelona, 56; Madrid, 416, 457, 459–460
Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 400, 455
South Coast: See Costa del Sol
Spanish Basque Country: 187–235; cuisine, 8, 186, 205; map, 182–183
Spanish Civil War: 297; guided tours, 49; overview, 502
Spanish guitars: concerts, 126, 462, 726–727; shopping for, 461–462, 616
Spanish language: See Language
Spanish restaurant phrases: 976
Spanish survival phrases: 975
Special events: See Festivals
Stairs to Heaven (Salamanca): 376
Steves, Andy: 52
Stradivarius (Antonius) Room (Madrid): 427
Subway: See Metro
Tajo River Gorge: 533, 558, 755, 761, 765
Tales of the Alhambra (Irving): 596, 968
TALGO: See Train travel
Tangier (Morocco): 18, 861–888; arrival in, 864–865; eating, 884–887; excursions,: from Gibraltar, 818; from Tarifa, 834; ferries, 845, 846, 857–859, 864; helpful hints, 865–866; itineraries, 862; maps, 863, 868; nightlife, 881–882; orientation, 862–864; sights/activities, 869–881; sleeping, 882–884; tours, 866–869; transportation, 864–865, 888
Tangier Airport (Morocco): 864–865
Tangier American Legation Museum (Morocco): 878–879
Tangier Anglican Church (Morocco): 871, 872–873
Tangier Beach (Morocco): 881
Tapas: 934–937; glossary of terms, 938–939. See also Pintxos; and specific destinations
Tarifa: 832–847; eating, 842–845; ferries, 845, 846, 857–859, 864; helpful hints, 834; map, 836–837; nightlife, 839; sights/activities, 834–839; sleeping, 839–842; tourist information, 833; transportation, 833, 845–847
Taverna Basca Irati (Barcelona): 60, 139, 142
Taxes, VAT refunds: 917–918
Taxis: 953–954; tipping, 917. See also specific destinations
Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres): 169–173
Teleféricos: See Funiculars
Telefónica (Madrid): 417
Telephone numbers, useful: 963–964
Telephones: 942–947; France, 239; Gibraltar, 817; Morocco, 866
Temperatures, average monthly: 971
Temple of Augustus (Barcelona): 73
Temple of Debod (Madrid): 454–455
Teresa of Ávila, Saint: 518, 522, 645, 900
Terramar Gardens (Sitges): 179
Terrorism Memorial (Madrid): 485
Theft alerts: 27, 911; Barcelona, 39–40, 53; Granada, 571, 611; Madrid, 392
Third of May, 1808 (Goya): 442–443
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 400, 444–445
Tiepolo, Giambattista: 423–424, 426, 428
Time zones: 911–912
Tinell Hall (Barcelona): 83
Tío Pepe González Byass (Jerez): 785
Toledo: 17, 525–564; at a glance, 535; arrival in, 528–529, 532; eating, 558–563; helpful hints, 532; history of, 529; itineraries, 526; maps, 527, 530–531, 556–557, 560–561; shopping, 553; sights, 534–553; sleeping, 554–558; tourist information, 527–528; tours, 532–533; transportation, 528–529, 532, 563–564
Toledo Bell Tower: 540
Toledo Card: 528
Toledo Cathedral: 534, 535, 536–540; map, 536
Torre del Oro (Sevilla): 668
Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 407–408
Torremolinos: 811
Torres de La Clerecía (Salamanca): 376
Tour guides: tipping, 917. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 910–911. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 960. See also specific destinations
Trafalgar cemetery (Gibraltar): 818
Train travel: 947–953; budgeting, 23; map, 950–951; overnight trains, 948–949; tickets, 949–953. See also specific destinations
Transportation: 947–960; budgeting, 23; map, 950–951. See also Boat travel and cruises; and specific destinations
Travel insurance: 26
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 911–912
Treasury (Córdoba): 718
Treasury (Toledo): 540
Triana (Sevilla): 639, 677–679; eating, 694–695
Trip costs: 23
Triumphal Arch (Córdoba): 720–721
Tuna music, in Salamanca: 378–379
Txikiteo: 206–207
Ultramarinos Beatriz (Pamplona): 281, 291
Universidad Pontificia (Comillas): 334
University of Salamanca: 374–376
University of Sevilla: 677
Valdevaqueros: 839
Valley of the Fallen (Valle de los Caídos): 500–503
Van der Weyden, Rogier: 435–436, 602
VAT refunds: 917–918
Vejer de la Frontera: 787
Velázquez, Diego: 87, 91, 539, 665–666, 671, 784, 897, 902; Prado Museum (Madrid), 437–438
Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia): 512
Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 512
Viceroy’s Palace (Barcelona): 74
Villafranca del Bierzo: 265, 269, 324–326
Villa Lucía (La Rioja): 295
Villaviciosa Chapel (Córdoba): 715–717
Virgen de la Antigua (Sevilla): 651
Virgin Mary’s Gate (Burgos): 304
Virgin of Dolores (Zahara): 775
Virgin of the Rock (Biarritz): 258
Visigothic Mosaic (Toledo): 713, 715
Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 535, 545
Visigothic Ruins (Toledo): 715
Visitor information: 910–911. See also specific destinations
Walking trails: See Hiking
Washington Irving Room (Granada): 596
Weekend Student Adventures (WSA Europe): 52
Weeping Virgin (Sevilla): 639, 675
Whale watching, in Tarifa: 838
White hill towns of Andalucía: 17, 739–786; at a glance, 742; maps, 740–741, 776–777
Windsurfing: 787, 832, 839, 845
Wine and vineyards: 940–941; glossary of terms, 940–941; Rioja, 264, 294–295, 295. See also Sherry
Wine Gate (Granada): 599
Women in Morocco: 870
World Expo Fairgrounds (Barcelona): 35, 118–120
World Trade Center (Barcelona): 156–157
World War II Tunnels (Gibraltar): 827
Yeguada de la Cartuja: 786
Yemas: 523
Ysios: 295
Zahara de la Sierra: 742, 774–776
Zambra dance, in Granada: 613–614
Zapatero, José Luis Rodríguez: 900
Zarautz: 213
Zarzuela, in Madrid: 401, 462–463
Zoco Municipal (Córdoba): 724
Zumaia: 213