Soup is the perfect meal for busy families with tight schedules. Most require only one big pot, and once the ingredients are combined they require little tending as they cook. The recipes here are meant to be enjoyed as satisfying main-course dishes. At Chanterelle, for example, our staff meal is often a hearty soup, such as a beef-rich borscht, served with some good crusty bread and a salad. Some of these soups will provide two family meals, which makes them ideal as planned leftovers. All are delicious the first time around, but like most soups they’ll gain even greater depth of flavor with reheating.
Another nice thing about soups is that they encourage creativity—which, after all, is one of the most pleasurable aspects of cooking.
When I was little, my aunt Gertie talked frequently about a hot beef borscht with garlic that she had eaten during her own childhood. Although her taste memory of it was vivid, no matter how hard she tried she was never able to make a version that matched the one she described so fondly. I think this richly beefy, slightly peppery borscht is what Aunt Gertie had in mind. Borscht is usually sweet and sour, with lemon juice as the traditional flavoring, but I also add vinegar—which contributes an appealing tanginess. Because this borscht contains meat, it should be served hot, not cold. Accompanied by thick-sliced rye bread, a cucumber or green salad, and a dish of sour cream, this makes a very satisfying meal. The sour cream is more than a garnish—it balances and smooths out the flavors. Like most soups, this borscht improves with age and reheating. However, caraway seeds will overwhelm the other flavors in reheated dishes, so add some of the seeds to the borscht each time you heat it, rather than all at once. SERVES 6 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 pounds beef brisket
5 cups Beefed-Up Veal Stock (page 38), canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water
3 tablespoons rendered chicken fat (see box, page 143) or canola or other vegetable oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2½ quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
5 cups peeled and shredded uncooked beets (5 to 6 large beets)
6 cups shredded cabbage (1- to 2-pound head)
7 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon caraway seeds (optional)
1. Place the beef in a large saucepan and add the beef stock. It should cover the meat. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the beef is tender, about 2 hours. Remove the beef from the liquid and let it cool. Reserve the stock. (This may be done a day ahead.) When it’s cool, cut the meat into ½-inch dice.
2. Heat the chicken fat or oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the reserved beef stock and the chicken stock, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and add the beets and lemon juice. Simmer, uncovered, until the beets are quite tender, about 30 minutes. At this point the beets should still be red, but they will have begun to give up their color to the broth.
4. Add the cut-up beef and cabbage, increase the heat to return the borscht to a simmer, then simmer, uncovered, until the cabbage is soft and the beef is heated through, about 10 minutes more. Season with the sugar, vinegar, salt, pepper, and caraway (if desired). Simmer for a couple of minutes to let the flavors blend, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.
Soups are the epitome of comfort food, and this flavorful Hot and Sour Soup is no exception. Highly seasoned and thick with two types of dried mushrooms, lily buds, and beef, it is equally satisfying served on its own or accompanied by Stir-Fried Rice Noodles with Bean Sprouts and Scallions (page 282). The recipe, traditionally made with pork, was inspired by a beef-based version in Barbara Tropp’s first cookbook, The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking. Beef gives the soup richer flavor, but you could substitute pork or chicken, or create an all-vegetable version. At first taste people assume the soup’s spiciness comes from chile peppers, but it actually contains none. Black pepper, the original spice used in China to add heat to certain dishes, is the surprise stand-in.
Special ingredients like dried wood ears (also called tree ears or black fungus) and shiitake mushrooms have become increasingly available in large supermarkets, but for lily buds and black vinegar you’ll probably need to visit a Chinese market. If necessary, the lily buds can be omitted, and balsamic vinegar can be substituted for the black vinegar. SERVES 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 ounces dried wood ear mushrooms
3 ounces dried shiitake mushrooms
3 ounces dried lily buds (optional)
1 beef flank steak (about 1¼ pounds), chilled in the freezer for 20 minutes to facilitate cutting
½ cup good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
4 teaspoons Asian sesame oil, plus additional for serving
1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar (see box, page 49)
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1 teaspoon sugar
3 quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce
1 cup rice vinegar, or more to taste
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
½ teaspoon ground Szechuan pepper
Coarse (kosher) salt, to taste
6 tablespoons cornstarch
½ cup cold water
3 large eggs, beaten
10 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and cut into ½-inch lengths
1. Place the wood ears, shiitakes, and lily buds (if desired) in separate bowls and cover each with boiling water. Let soak at room temperature for 30 minutes to soften.
2. Slice the chilled flank steak against the grain into ¼-inch strips, then cut each strip into ¼-inch dice. Combine ¼ cup of the regular soy sauce and 4 teaspoons sesame oil with the black vinegar, sherry, and sugar in a large bowl. Add the beef and toss to coat. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours and up to 24.
3. When you’re ready to make the soup, drain the wood ears, shiitakes, and lily buds using a slotted spoon. Lift them from the water, leaving the grit behind. (Only the shiitake soaking water is worth using now or saving for another recipe; strain it through a strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth and add it to the stockpot with the stock in step 4.) Trim and discard any hard parts from the wood ears and cut what remains into ½-inch pieces. Trim away any stems from the shiitakes and slice the caps into thin strips. Cut the lily buds in half lengthwise.
4. Bring the stock to a boil in a large, nonreactive stockpot over high heat. Add the mushrooms, mushroom soy sauce, and remaining ¼ cup soy sauce. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, to allow the mushrooms to flavor the broth. Drain the flank steak and add, along with 1 cup rice vinegar and both the black and the Szechuan peppers. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lily buds and simmer until the beef is tender and the lily buds are heated through, 5 minutes more.
5. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, and vinegar if necessary. Whisk the cornstarch with the water to blend. When smooth, whisk it into the soup to thicken, about 1 minute (see Note).
6. To serve, bring the soup to a boil quickly and swirl in the beaten eggs with a whisk to form shreds of egg. Toss in the scallions and season with a little additional sesame oil. Serve immediately.
Note: The soup may be prepared through step 5 several days ahead. If you’re doing so, refrigerate it, covered, and check the seasoning again before serving. You’re looking for a balance of the strong flavors of vinegar and pepper.
dried wood ears and lily buds
Wood ear mushrooms, also called black tree fungi, tree ears, or cloud ears (a larger, less tender version), are cultivated on fallen tree trunks or wood that has been allowed to rot before the fungus grows on it. They look like little blackish brown chips or flakes and are often used in tandem with lily buds to add crunchy textural interest to stir-fries and soups, especially hot and sour soups.
Lily buds, also called tiger lily buds or golden needles, are another traditional hot and sour soup ingredient. They are valued more for their intriguingly chewy texture than for their delicate, tealike flavor. Long, thin, and a light golden color, they are actually the dried, unopened flowers of yellow and orange daylilies. When you’re buying lily buds, avoid any that are brittle and brown (signs of age); look for flexible, golden ones.
Both wood ears and lily buds should be rehydrated before using. A long overnight soak in cold water works best. But if you’re pressed for time, wood ears can be quickly reconstituted by pouring boiling water over them (for lily buds, use warm water). Let soak for 30 minutes; drain by lifting them from the soaking liquid with a slotted spoon. Trim off any hard parts before using.
In this version of my mother’s chicken soup I combine the best of two worlds—fine home cooking and fine restaurant cooking—to create a more intensely flavorful version of a classic comfort food. By cooking the chicken in chicken stock, rather than simply in water, you double the flavor. It’s the same technique I use at Chanterelle to prepare consommé for the restaurant menu. The soup’s richly concentrated taste is the very essence of the bird as well as a perfect vehicle for Homemade Matzoh Balls (page 11).
The matzoh balls can be poached right in the chicken soup toward the end of the final simmering, or poached separately in chicken stock in another pan, then drained and added to the soup just before serving. Either method results in good flavor, although poaching matzoh balls in the soup does make it cloudy and a little less appetizing looking. Since I always have plenty of chicken stock in the restaurant, I usually poach them separately. SERVES 10 AS A MAIN COURSE
1 bunch fresh dill
1 bunch fresh chervil or
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 whole chickens (about 3½ pounds each), quartered
1 large onion, diced
8 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds
5 large parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch rounds
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Homemade Matzoh Balls (recipe follows; optional)
1. Using butcher’s twine, tie the dill, chervil, and parsley together in one big bunch. (If you’re using tarragon, just sprinkle it in after you pour the stock into the pot.) Place the bunch of herbs in a very large stockpot along with the chicken stock and chicken pieces. Set the pot over high heat and bring to a boil, skimming the surface as the foam rises to the top. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer the broth until the chickens are just cooked through, about 45 minutes. Test for doneness by piercing a thigh with a fork; the juices should run clear.
2. Carefully remove the chicken pieces from the broth and set aside to cool. Remove and discard the herb bundle.
3. Add the onion, carrots, and parsnips to the broth and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes; a fork should pierce quite easily through a piece of carrot (see Note).
4. While the vegetables cook, remove the skin from the chicken pieces and pull the meat from the bones. Discard the skin and bones. Coarsely chop the meat and add it to the soup, simmering it for 10 minutes longer to reheat. Remove the pot from the heat and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately.
Note: If you’re planning to cook the matzoh balls in the soup, add the batter in step 3, after the vegetables have been simmering for about 20 minutes and before the chicken is added. The matzoh balls should take about 15 to 20 minutes to poach in the simmering soup; they’ll bob to the surface when they’re done. Add the chicken after the matzoh balls have cooked for 10 minutes.
If you’ve cooked the matzoh balls separately and they’re still warm, add them 5 minutes after you add the chicken. If the matzoh balls are cool, add them at the same time that you add the chicken.
soup for sara
After several years of lunches centered on her fondness for peanut butter sandwiches, our daughter, Sara, suddenly discovered soup. So she and I began making soup together, tucking containers away in the freezer for her school lunches. She likes lentil and leek and potato, but her real favorite is chicken with fresh herbs and noodles or rice. Around noon in the wintertime, when I’m busy in the kitchen, I’ll picture her sitting at a table of boisterous kids, quietly reading a book and sipping soup from her thermos.
This is the matzoh ball recipe I make at home for my family and at the restaurant for staff meals. Sometimes I cheat a bit by adding just a little baking powder to the mixture to make it lighter and airier, but, of course, you wouldn’t do this if the matzoh balls were to be served during Passover. I once transformed these simple little dumplings into an unexpected and luxurious treat on the menu at Chanterelle, adding lots of chopped black truffles to the mixture and forming elegant miniature matzoh balls to set afloat in cups of chicken consommé. To make this fancier version for a special occasion, just add as much chopped black truffle as you can afford to this recipe. MAKES 1 DOZEN 2½- TO 3-INCH MATZOH BALLS
2 large egg yolks
¼ cup rendered chicken fat (see page 143), melted but not hot
½ cup warm Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¾ to 1 cup matzoh meal
½ teaspoon baking powder (optional)
2 tablespoons grated onion
1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, dill, and chervil leaves
½ teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
3 large egg whites
5 quarts Chicken Stock, water, or a combination of both
1. Combine the egg yolks and chicken fat in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until thickened. Add ½ cup warm chicken stock and continue beating. Mix in the matzoh meal, baking powder (if desired), onion, herbs, salt, and pepper. Set aside.
2. In a medium-size bowl using clean beaters, beat the egg whites with the mixer at medium-high speed until they reach soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whites gently but thoroughly into the matzoh mixture, then refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour.
3. Place the chicken stock in a large stockpot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
4. Use your hands to roll the matzoh mixture into balls slightly smaller than a Ping-Pong ball (matzoh balls expand as they cook). When the stock is boiling, reduce the heat and carefully lower the matzoh balls into the liquid. Poach the matzoh balls in the simmering stock until they float to the surface, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove them from the stock and keep warm until you’re ready to serve. If you’re making them a day in advance, transfer the matzoh balls to a storage container and refrigerate, covered, until you’re ready to reheat them in the soup.
I love tripe. Someday I’m going to organize a tripe lovers’ convention. I anticipate a skimpy turnout, however, since most people who didn’t grow up with tripe dishes think they’ll abhor it, and never bother trying it. Years ago, when I first began cooking in restaurants, I lived in a small apartment near Times Square. Exhausted and hungry at the end of a long shift, I often revived myself with a bowl of this soothing soup at one of the area’s many inexpensive Greek restaurants. It’s quite similar to avgolemono, a traditional, but tripeless, Greek soup also made with egg yolks and fresh lemon juice. The acidity of fresh lemon juice here balances the soup’s richness, while the combination of egg yolks and cream whisked in at the end serves as a thickener. Serve with a simple tomato, olive, and cucumber salad and a rustic loaf of bread. SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A MAIN COURSE
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 large onion, finely diced
6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups dry white wine
2½ quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 pounds beef tripe (see box, page 83), cut into ½-inch dice
5 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
3 leeks, white parts trimmed with some green attached, well rinsed, drained, and cut into ¼-inch dice
4 bay leaves
½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
3 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy (or whipping) cream
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Juice of 3 to 4 lemons
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish
1. Melt the butter in a large stockpot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic and sweat slowly until soft and translucent but not browned, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the flour and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes to develop a nutty aroma. Do not let the mixture brown. Whisk in the wine and increase the heat to medium. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer, whisking often, making sure there are no lumps. Add the tripe, carrots, leeks, bay leaves, and thyme and simmer, covered, until the tripe is as tender as you want it—about 1½ hours for a slightly resilient texture.
3. Combine the egg yolks and cream in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Reduce the heat under the soup to low; the soup should be barely simmering. Then whisk in the egg mixture. Continue to cook, stirring the soup constantly, until it thickens slightly. Don’t let the soup get too hot or it will curdle. Remove the pot from the heat and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; the soup should be lemony, but not overpoweringly so. Remove the bay leaves and serve, garnished with chopped parsley.
My wife, Karen, and I love Thai food, which is one of the reasons we traveled to Thailand a few years ago. We were fascinated by the extraordinary quality of the cooking (and ingredients) everywhere we went, even at the Bangkok airport. In fact, we ate this terrific-tasting version of a classic Thai soup at the airport snack bar. Inspired as I was by Thai cuisine, I felt it wasn’t quite right for the Chanterelle menu, so I experimented with ingredients and flavors for the Chanterelle staff, and eventually, little by little, some Thai influences made their way into the menu.
Here the light, elegant shrimp broth allows the haunting perfumes of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves to come through beautifully. Cucumber Salad with Red Onion and Chinese Sausage (page 314) is a perfect accompaniment. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE
2 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
1 small clove garlic, minced
6 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and sliced into very thin rounds
1½ pounds small or medium shrimp, peeled and deveined (reserve shells)
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
3 kaffir lime leaves
3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla), or more to taste
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
1 tablespoon good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
2 teaspoons chili-garlic sauce (sambal oelek)
1 can (8 ounces) straw mushrooms, drained (see Note)
1 cup thinly sliced green cabbage
6 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
1. Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and lemongrass, which should sizzle immediately in the oil. Stir the mixture until it’s aromatic but not browned, about 45 seconds. Add the reserved shrimp shells and stir until the shells have turned opaque, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and kaffir lime leaves and bring to a boil over high heat.
2. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, to let the stock reduce slightly and the flavors blend. Add 3 tablespoons each fish sauce and lime juice along with the soy sauce and chili sauce, and simmer for 10 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the broth into a clean pot, pressing hard on the solids in the sieve.
3. To serve, bring the broth to a simmer. Add the straw mushrooms, cabbage, and shrimp. Simmer gently until the shrimp is just opaque, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the scallions. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more fish sauce, lime juice, or chili sauce if needed. Serve immediately.
Note: Although we did find fresh straw mushrooms in Thailand, I have seen only the canned variety in the United States. These mushrooms are necessary to the look and feel of many Thai dishes. Although some might object to the canned version, preserved products are actually very typical in authentic Thai cuisine. You can substitute fresh cultivated white mushrooms if you like. The cooking time remains the same.
kaffir lime leaves
If you can imagine a pear-shaped lime with an exaggeratedly knobby surface, you know what a kaffir lime looks like. In Thai cooking the grated rind is used with aromatic spices in curries; the juice, as a flavoring for soups and dipping sauces. The fruit’s shiny, dark green leaves are flat and supple, a bit waxy, and a little thicker than bay leaves. They impart a pungent, zesty lemon-lime flavor with a slightly floral note to a wide variety of Thai dishes. Sometimes labeled “wild lime leaves,” kaffir lime leaves are available fresh, frozen, and dried at Asian markets as well as some specialty food shops and large supermarkets. Fresh leaves (your best choice) and frozen leaves have more flavor but can be difficult to find, depending on where you live.
If you can’t find kaffir lime leaves, then add a combination of fresh lemon juice and a bit of grated ordinary lime zest to the dish just before serving.
As is the case with so many historical regional recipes, the “correct” method for making clam chowder is a subject of enormous controversy. Should this beloved classic be made with salt pork or bacon? Tomatoes? Potatoes? Herbs? Cream? Passions run high. And the problem is compounded by the fact that quite often cooks just can’t seem to leave well enough alone, changing a classic dish for the sake of change rather than improvement.
This version of clam chowder is what I think of as the right one. It has few embellishments and is filled with a strong, presence. It can stand in splendid solitude as a wonderful one-pot meal, with the addition of just one special treat. If our pastry chef feels especially generous when we make a pot of chowder for our staff meal, if we beg and whine sufficiently, and—perhaps most important—if he plans to stay and eat with us, he’ll whip up a batch of buttery Herbed Biscuits (page 382). SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE
18 cherrystone clams or other hard-shell clams
1 cup dry white wine
3 strips bacon, cut crosswise into ⅛-inch pieces
1 medium onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 cups water
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 medium-size waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into ¼-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1 cup heavy (or whipping) cream
Dash of Tabasco sauce
1. Using a stiff brush, scrub the clams under cold running water. Rinse them well in a colander, then place them in a medium-size, nonreactive saucepan or stockpot. Add the wine, cover the pan, and set it over high heat. Steam the clams until they open, 5 to 8 minutes. Start checking after 5 minutes, removing each clam to a bowl as it opens, using tongs. If any clam seems reluctant to open, give the shell a sharp rap with the tongs; that usually does the trick. Discard any clam that absolutely refuses to open. Set the clams aside to cool.
2. Pour the clam cooking liquid through a strainer lined with several layers of dampened cheesecloth into a small heatproof bowl. Set aside.
3. Rinse out the saucepan and wipe it dry. Add the bacon and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon to paper towels to drain.
4. Add the onion and garlic to the bacon drippings in the saucepan and sauté over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes; be sure not to let the flour brown. Whisk in the reserved clam cooking liquid and the water, then add the thyme, bay leaves, and pepper. Bring to a boil, whisking occasionally, then reduce the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes to reduce the liquid somewhat and blend the flavors.
5. Meanwhile, remove the cooled clams from the shells; discard the shells. Chop the meat coarsely, either by hand or by pulsing briefly in a food processor. Set aside.
6. Add the potatoes to the soup and return to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes.
7. Add the bacon to the soup along with the chopped clams, cream, and Tabasco. Cook until everything is heated through, 2 to 3 minutes; do not let the soup boil, or the clams will toughen. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary, then ladle into soup bowls and serve immediately.
This is a heady soup redolent of the sea and richly infused with saffron and cream. Using the essence of mussel juice created by steaming the mussels in white wine adds an unusual dimension to the flavor. I like to use Prince Edward Island or other rope-cultured mussels, because they’re a nice small size and I’ve found them to be tastier and cleaner than other mussels, but any mussels you can find will do just fine. Simple accompaniments, like a big green salad and a loaf of warm crusty bread, are all that’s needed to turn this soup into a pleasant supper. SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 pounds mussels
1 bottle (750 ml) dry white wine, such as a Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small dice
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon saffron threads, soaked (see page 174)
4 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
4 cups heavy (or whipping) cream
Coarse (kosher) salt, to taste (optional)
Pinch of cayenne pepper, or to taste
Fresh lemon juice, to taste
1 bunch chives, snipped, for garnish
1. Soak, clean, and debeard the mussels (see box).
2. Place the mussels in a medium-size, nonreactive saucepan or stockpot. Add the wine, shallots, and garlic. Cover the pan and place it over high heat. Steam the mussels until they open, about 5 to 8 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally to redistribute the mussels as they steam.
3. Using a slotted spoon, remove the mussels to a bowl and set them aside, discarding any that haven’t opened. Pour the cooking liquid through a strainer lined with cheesecloth into a heatproof bowl and set aside. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the shells, discarding the shells. Cover the mussels to keep them warm while you prepare the soup.
4. Rinse out the saucepan and wipe it dry. Add the butter and melt over medium-low heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the flour, and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the mixture develops a nutty aroma, about 5 minutes. Be careful not to let the flour brown.
5. Add the mussel cooking liquid, saffron, and chicken stock and whisk well. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, to reduce the liquid somewhat and blend the flavors. Reduce the heat so the liquid simmers briskly and whisk in the cream. Cook until slightly thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes, whisking occasionally. Taste the soup. If it’s not the desired strength, continue simmering to reduce it and further concentrate the flavors. Taste again and season with salt (if necessary), cayenne, and lemon juice.
6. To serve, divide the mussels among soup plates and ladle the hot soup over them. Garnish with snipped chives.
cleaning mussels
Fill a bucket with cold water. Add the mussels and a handful of salt. Soak the for about an hour to dislodge the dirt and any grit from around the lip of the shells, then remove them from the water and place in a colander in the sink. Under cold running water, use a stiff brush to vigorously scrub off any remaining grit or barnacles from each mussel. Leave the hairy “beard” that protrudes from the side of each shell intact for now. Discard any mussels with open or broken shells. Just before you plan on cooking the mussels, use your fingers or the dull side of a paring knife to pull off the beards.
This satisfying soup is always a hit both at home and at our staff meal. There are no shortcuts to making it, but the effort is well worth the tasty end result. It’s best to plan on preparing this over a two-day period—fixing the ham stock the first day, and finishing the soup the next. Like many restaurant kitchens, we frequently have Smithfield ham trimmings on hand at Chanterelle; I often use 2 or 3 pounds of them for ham broth, but I also make it with the same amount of ham hocks. Since the ham is already quite salty on its own, I recommend using homemade Chicken Stock (page 39) here. It tends to be less salty than even low-sodium canned chicken broth. SERVES 10 TO 12 AS A MAIN COURSE
FOR THE HAM STOCK:
3 or 4 ham hocks (2 to 3 pounds)
3 large carrots, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 large onions, unpeeled, cut into large chunks
About 5 quarts Chicken Stock (page 39), canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water, enough to cover the ham, carrots, and onions by 3 inches
FOR THE SOUP:
5 quarts ham stock, or more as needed
¼ cup canola or other vegetable oil
2 medium onions, cut into ¼-inch dice
4 large cloves garlic, minced
2 pounds green split peas
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices
3 bay leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, or to taste (optional)
Diced ham from the hocks, for garnish
1. Prepare the ham stock: Combine the ham hocks, carrots, onions, and chicken stock or water in a large stockpot and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming the surface as the foam rises to the top. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 2½ hours, skimming occasionally and adding stock or water if the liquid reduces too much. Strain the stock, reserving the ham hocks but discarding the vegetables. Refrigerate the stock, covered, for at least 8 hours and up to 24. When the hocks are cool enough to handle, remove the meat, dice it, and refrigerate, tightly covered.
2. When you’re ready to prepare the soup, remove and discard the layer of fat on the surface of the ham stock. Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat the vegetables, covered, until translucent but not browned, about 10 minutes, uncovering occasionally to stir.
3. Add the peas, carrots, bay leaves, and 5 quarts stock and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady simmer, then skim the surface of foam and debris. Simmer, uncovered, until the peas are tender, about 2 hours, stirring occasionally and scraping the bottom of the pot to make sure the soup isn’t sticking. You may need to add more stock or water if the soup gets too thick. When it’s done, the soup should be thick but not porridgelike.
4. Remove the soup from the heat and discard the bay leaves, then season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, I like to stir in a couple of tablespoons of butter to finish the soup. Ladle into bowls and garnish each with diced ham.
the best bay leaves
Fresh bay leaves are one of my favorite seasonings. I love their pungent, complex, up-front flavor with its hints of lavender, clove, and eucalyptus. Unfortunately, they’re difficult to find, although you’ll occasionally see them at specialty food shops or farmers’ markets. If you’re lucky enough to buy fresh leaves, let them age a day or so in a cool dark place before using, then break or bend each leaf to release its peppery flavor and perfume. Aromatic dried Turkish bay leaves are an excellent substitute for fresh bay. Be sure to read the label. If the origin isn’t stated, you can assume the leaves are not Turkish. Always remove the leaves from the dish before serving.
Robustly satisfying and easy to make, this is my basic black bean soup. The recipe is simple and flexible, with plenty of room for adjustments and extra touches of your own. For example, in place of the bacon you could simmer a smoked ham hock in the stock until tender, then dice the meat and add it to the soup. Or you could expand the number and type of vegetables, adding sweet peppers, leeks, or zucchini—or some leafy greens like collards or bok choy. Throw in a few hot peppers, a smoked or spicy sausage or two, or even a couple of hot dogs. Almost anything goes. This version is thick with whole beans, but a smoother consistency and a fancier, more refined soup can be achieved by using half the amount of beans, then puréeing the finished soup until it’s smooth. Whether plain or fancy, the soup needs only a simple lettuce and tomato salad and some piping-hot Cornbread (page 381) to become a hunger-stanching supper.
Serve with its array of garnishes set out on the table in small bowls. SERVES 6 AS A MAIN COURSE
2 cups dried black beans
6 cups cold water
3 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
4 ounces slab bacon, rind discarded, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 medium onion, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
3 large cloves garlic, minced
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39), canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water, or more as needed
4 bay leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or more to taste
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Madeira
1 teaspoon wine vinegar, preferably sherry vinegar but white wine or red wine vinegar will do
For garnish: sour cream, diced onion, chopped fresh cilantro leaves, chopped hard-cooked egg
1. Pick over the beans, discarding any stones or bits of debris. Place the beans in a colander or strainer and rinse well under cold running water. Drain. Place the beans in a large stockpot or bowl, add the water (it should cover the beans by 2 inches), and soak for 8 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Heat the oil in a very large stockpot over medium-low heat. Add the bacon and sauté, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 15 minutes.
3. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic to the pot and sweat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft but not browned, about 10 minutes.
4. Drain the soaked beans. Add them to the pot along with 8 cups stock and the bay leaves. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are tender and the vegetables have practically dissolved, 1 to 1½ hours. Stir the soup occasionally to make sure the beans aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pot. If the soup becomes too thick, add additional stock or water. Most of the beans should keep their shape, but some will fall apart enough to thicken the soup.
5. Remove the pot from the heat and season with salt, pepper, Tabasco, dry sherry, and vinegar. Remove the bay leaves.
6. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with any combination you like of sour cream, diced onion, fresh cilantro leaves, and chopped hard-cooked egg.
Lentils come in a wide array of colors and sizes. My favorites are the tiny (about the size of a peppercorn) green French lentilles de Puy, which are grown on volcanic soil near the town of Le Puy in the mountainous region of the Auvergne. A bit firmer than brown lentils, they don’t fall apart as easily, and I find their complex, slightly peppery taste intriguing. Look for them at specialty food stores. Of course, you can easily use the larger, more readily available brown lentils from the supermarket instead.
The simplicity of this soup allows the fine earthy flavor of the lentils to come through beautifully. If desired, you could further enhance the dish by simmering some smoked sausage or ham along with the lentils, adding an appealing depth of flavor.
A little garlic vinaigrette added to each bowl of soup before serving is an unexpected final touch. As an alternative garnish, you might add a swirl of salsa to each serving, or a dollop of sour cream mixed with Madras-style curry powder. SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A MAIN COURSE
FOR THE SOUP:
1 pound French de Puy (green) lentils or regular brown lentils
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
7 to 8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup Tasty Basic Tomato Sauce (page 271) or good-quality commercial tomato sauce
2 bay leaves
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup red wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, minced
TO FINISH:
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, or to taste
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Pick over the lentils, discarding any stones or bits of debris. Rinse under cold running water and drain.
2. Heat the oil in a medium-large stockpot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the lentils, 7 cups of the stock, the tomato sauce, bay leaves, and thyme. Stir to mix, then increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady simmer and cook, partially covered, until the lentils are tender, about 45 minutes, uncovering occasionally to stir. You may need to add another cup of stock if the lentils absorb too much liquid. Stir in the carrot and simmer for 20 minutes more.
4. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: Combine the oil, vinegar, and garlic in a small bowl and whisk to blend.
5. When the soup is ready, remove it from the heat and season with the vinegar and salt and pepper. Ladle into soup bowls, then whisk the vinaigrette to reblend, and drizzle a tablespoonful over each portion. Serve immediately.
Like many chefs, I have vivid childhood memories of my mother in her kitchen, and to this day I still remember how she prepared mushroom-barley soup. Compared to other dishes I watched her make, the whole process of making this particular soup seemed much more elaborate, like a ritual.
She made the soup the way they do in Jewish dairy restaurants, using for the broth the strained water she had soaked the mushrooms in, rather than adding meat stock. I recall watching, fascinated, as she made a brown roux, adding flour to butter, cooking it until it was quite dark, then using it to enrich and thicken the meatless soup. As for mushrooms, she used Polish dried mushrooms, even though they were expensive. They’re hard to find these days, so I use dried porcini mushrooms imported from Italy, and for added flavor, I also use Chicken Stock (page 39) though this obviously makes the soup nondairy. SERVES 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
4 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
4 cups very warm water
2 medium leeks
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
2 medium onions, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 small clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
10 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 bay leaves
½ cup pearl barley
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Place the porcinis in a bowl and cover with the water. Let soak at room temperature for 30 minutes to soften.
2. Trim away and discard all but ½ inch of the green part from the leeks. Split the leeks lengthwise and rinse them well under cold running water to remove the grit. Drain and cut into ¼-inch dice.
3. Melt the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrots, onions, leeks, and garlic. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onions and leeks are wilted and very lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. The flour may brown slightly. Whisk in the chicken stock and increase the heat to high.
4. While the soup comes to a boil, lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain the liquid into the soup through a strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth and continue to bring to a boil. Add the bay leaves.
5. Rinse the soaked mushrooms and remove and discard any hard or gritty parts (see Note). Chop the mushrooms coarsely and add them to the soup. Add the barley and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the barley is tender, about 45 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.
Note: I rinse reconstituted dried porcinis because I find they’re still likely to have some grit. This is not true of shiitakes.
bizarre breakfasts
To my way of thinking, breakfast is a state of mind rather than a traditional morning meal. I don’t have anything against morning per se; I just don’t especially like most breakfast foods. In fact, I’ll eat virtually anything in the morning rather than face a bowl of cereal, a bagel or muffin, or bacon and eggs. I love a bowl of cold noodles in the morning, for example, or a meat loaf sandwich garnished with Cider Vinegar Slaw (page 310) or leftover Cooked Spinach Salad with Soy and Sesame (page 341). And practically any warm soup tastes good, though I have to say I’m very partial to Mushroom-Barley (page 26) and Chicken Soup with Fresh Herbs (page 9).
The early winter season leading up to the insanity of the December holiday rush is our busiest time at the restaurant. The pace is frenetic, and we’re all overworked and exhausted. Every so often I look around to find that almost everyone has the sniffles. At times like this we all need a big, steaming, healthful bowl of vegetable soup to clear our sinuses and bolster our morale. This gently flavored soup does the trick, so we dubbed it Panacea Vegetable Soup. When you’re feeling frail, one bowl will make you feel like new. Be sure to add the vegetables in stages so that each cooks for the correct amount of time without getting too soft.
If you like your vegetable soup to include pasta, add ¼ cup orzo 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time. SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 leeks
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped (1½ cups)
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2½ quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups canned tomatoes with juice, tomatoes crushed by hand
2 bay leaves
¼ teaspoon dried oregano leaves
¼ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
4 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 yellow squash, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 zucchini, cut into ½-inch pieces
4 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 cup (well-packed) spinach, rinsed and spun dry
¼ small head green cabbage, shredded
1 can (15½ ounces) cannellini or red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving
1. Trim away and discard all but 2 inches of the green part from the leeks. Split the leeks lengthwise and rinse them well under cold running water to remove the grit. Drain and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices.
2. Heat the oil in a very large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and leeks, reduce the heat to low, and sweat until the onions are translucent but not browned, 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Add the stock, tomatoes, bay leaves, oregano, and thyme, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Then lower the heat to medium and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the carrots and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the butternut and yellow squashes, zucchini, and green beans and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add the spinach, cabbage, and cannellini beans and continue simmering, uncovered, for 10 minutes more. The soup should be thick with vegetables that are tender but still hold their shape.
4. Remove the pot from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Add the vinegar, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if necessary, before serving. Pass the Parmesan at the table.
sweating vegetables
Sweating refers to slowly cooking sliced or diced ingredients in a small amount of fat, water, or stock over very low heat in a pan until they soften and release their juices but do not brown. Many cooks cover the pan, but I prefer to leave it uncovered so I can see what’s going on. As the vegetables sweat, their flavors develop, becoming sweeter and more pronounced. When potatoes, carrots, onions, and leeks are used in combination with other ingredients, they are often sweated first.
Like the New England Clam Chowder recipe on page 16, the flavor of this hearty, filling classic depends on the fine quality of the ingredients and the care taken in their preparation rather than on novelty. Be sure to use starchy Idaho (russet) potatoes for this soup rather than waxy ones. Waxy potatoes (round thin-skinned red potatoes or Yukon Golds, for example) will produce a gummy-textured soup, and this recipe is meant to make one that isn’t too thick. Take care to sweat the vegetables slowly (see page 29), which allows their flavors to develop. And use a good chicken stock, preferably homemade. It’s attention to details like these that separates an adequate cook from a good one. This is also why your guests will marvel at how such a simple soup can taste so delicious.
I like to add cream for a luxurious-tasting soup. If you decide not to use it, the soup will still be wonderful. However, don’t be tempted to substitute milk, half-and-half, or even additional stock. SERVES 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 bunches leeks (about 12)
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
4 large russet potatoes (about 2 pounds total), such as Idaho, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
3 quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups heavy (or whipping) cream (optional)
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 bunch fresh chives, finely snipped, for garnish
1. Trim the leeks, leaving about 5 inches of green. Split the leeks lengthwise and rinse them well under cold running water to remove the grit. Drain and coarsely chop.
2. Melt the butter in a large stockpot over low heat. Add the leeks, onions, and potatoes, cover, and sweat the vegetables slowly for 30 minutes, uncovering occasionally to stir.
3. Add the chicken stock and increase the heat to high. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are quite soft, about 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Pour the soup into a colander set over a second pot. Pass the vegetables through a food mill and return them to the stock in the pot. Stir to blend the soup, then bring it to a boil again. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, to reduce the soup a bit and concentrate the flavors. Add the cream, if desired, and return the soup to a boil. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper and garnish with a sprinkling of chives.
using a food mill
A food mill is the best piece of kitchen equipment for achieving the proper texture for Leek and Potato Soup (page 30) or Creamy Tomato Mint Soup (page 32). In contrast to a blender or food processor, which purées soups and sauces, a food mill simultaneously purées and strains out any bits of fiber, skin, or seeds. Depending on which perforated disk you use, the consistency of ingredients processed this way can range from extremely smooth to interestingly textured. Essentially the mill, which is set over a bowl, is a mechanical sieve consisting of an open-base, bowl-shaped hopper with a hand-cranked spring-loaded blade used to push ingredients through interchangeable disks (with small, medium, or large holes). The mills are made of plastic, aluminium, tinned steel, or stainless steel (the best choice) and are available at any well-stocked kitchenware store.
Although tomatoes and aromatic herbs always complement each other, tender sprigs of fresh mint seem to have a special affinity for tomatoes. In this soup the mint is a sprightly highlight that serves as a refreshing foil to the richness of the cream. Other fresh herbs, such as thyme or basil, can be substituted and the soup will still be very tasty, but you really owe it to yourself to make this recipe with mint at least once. As for the tomatoes, if it’s summertime choose the ripest, freshest ones you can find (a pinch of sugar will bring out their natural sweetness); at other times of the year canned will do just fine. Serve with a basket of hot garlic bread and a tossed vegetable salad. SERVES 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
4 cups peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped fresh ripe tomatoes (4 to 5 pounds; see box, page 33) or 4 cups canned whole plum tomatoes with their juice (two 28-ounce cans)
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 small (about 2 ounces) bunch fresh mint leaves, very coarsely chopped, stems discarded
2 cups heavy (or whipping) cream
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pinch of sugar (optional)
1. Melt the butter in a medium-large, nonreactive stockpot over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and sweat, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not browned, about 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Add the flour and cook, stirring, until the mixture develops a nutty aroma, about 10 minutes. Be careful not to let the flour brown.
3. Add the tomatoes, breaking them up against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon if they’re canned. Add the stock, tomato paste, and mint and increase the heat to high. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are very soft, about 30 minutes.
4. Pour the soup into a colander set over a second pot. Pass the tomatoes through a food mill and return them to the stock in the pot. Stir to blend the soup.
5. Whisk in the cream, then simmer, uncovered, whisking frequently, until the soup is well flavored and slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar to highlight the sweetness of the tomatoes, if desired. Serve piping hot.
peeling and seeding tomatoes
While it’s not essential to skin and seed the tomatoes you use in soup, it does ensure that there’ll be no unsightly shriveled bits of tomato skin visible. Bring a pot of water to a boil. If it isn’t large enough to hold all of the tomatoes, simply blanch a few at a time. With a sharp paring knife, cut a small, shallow X in the bottom of each tomato. Carefully ease the tomatoes into the boiling water and blanch until the edges of the Xs begin to curl up, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes from the pot to a colander and rinse under cold running water for about a minute. Using the paring knife or your fingers, pull off and discard the skin from each tomato, beginning at the X. The skin should come away easily; if it doesn’t, return the tomato to the boiling water for a few more seconds. Core the tomatoes, then cut the peeled tomatoes in half crosswise and use your fingers to poke out the seeds. Discard the seeds. Riper tomatoes are the easiest to peel, but be careful not to blanch them too long or they will become mushy.
This is bright orange, bold, and laced with bourbon. What more could you ask of a soup? The natural sweetness of the squash’s creamy-textured flesh works in tandem with the bourbon’s mellow caramelness to produce a luxuriously smooth, thick soup with lots of character. Although butternut is classified as a winter squash, it’s available almost year-round these days, so there’s no reason to let the season dictate when you make this soup. Occasionally the butternut squash sold in the summer is slightly less flavorful, but this is easily remedied by adding ½ teaspoon sugar to the squash as it simmers in the broth. Serve with roast chicken or Herbed Pinwheel Pork Loin (page 100) and a simple salad of mixed greens. SERVES 8 AS A FIRST COURSE
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 large butternut squash (3 to 3½ pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch chunks
6 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup Wild Turkey or other excellent bourbon, plus additional for serving if desired
1 bay leaf
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fresh lemon juice, to taste
¼ cup heavy (or whipping) cream (optional)
1. Melt the butter in a medium-size stockpot over low heat. Add the chopped onion, cover, and slowly sweat the onion, uncovering occasionally to stir, until soft and translucent but not browned, about 8 minutes.
2. Add the butternut squash, chicken stock, ¼ cup bourbon, and the bay leaf and increase the heat to high. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the squash is quite soft and tender, about 25 minutes.
3. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Pour the soup into a colander set over a second pot. Working in batches, process the squash in a food processor or blender to a smooth purée. Stir the puréed squash into the stock in the pot.
4. Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Continue simmering until the soup is the consistency of heavy cream, 5 to 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper and a squirt of fresh lemon juice. For a richer-tasting soup, stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons of extra bourbon, the heavy cream, or both just before serving. Or you can drizzle the cream over the top of each bowl.
The enveloping warmth of this classic soup makes it the perfect antidote to a cold winter night. The onions are first cooked very slowly to concentrate their flavor, then caramelized over high heat to add subtle sweetness to the soup. The aroma of the onions languidly simmering in a broth infused with port, brandy, and white wine is the essence of French cooking. The port is a nontraditional touch inspired by James Beard’s recipe for onion soup. It adds a supplemental bit of sweetness and helps give the broth a warm, rich color. For a quick garnish, top with crispy croutons (see box, page 356) and a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan. To serve the soup gratinéed as they do in French bistros, fill individual ovenproof bowls with hot soup and top with a thick slice of toasted French bread and a slice of Gruyère cheese. Place the bowls under the broiler until the cheese is melted, bubbly, and a bit browned. SERVES 6 AS A MAIN COURSE
1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil
5 large onions, peeled and sliced lengthwise (about 5 cups)
½ cup port
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup brandy
½ teaspoon sugar
8 cups Beefed-Up Veal Stock (page 38), Chicken Stock (page 39), or canned low-sodium beef or chicken broth
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Crisp croutons (see box, page 356), for garnish
Freshly grated Parmesan, for garnish
1. Combine the butter and oil in a medium-large stockpot and heat over low heat. Add the onions and cook, uncovered, until brown but not crisp, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Increase the heat to medium high and cook the onions, uncovered, stirring often, to further brown and caramelize them, 5 to 10 minutes more.
2. Stir in the port, white wine, and brandy and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, uncovered, until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and stock and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cook the soup for 1 hour to allow the flavors to blend. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve, making sure each portion has a healthy amount of luscious onions. Top with the croutons and grated Parmesan.
how to ripen avocados
These days it’s pretty unusual to find ripe, ready-to-use avocados at the store. However, ripening them yourself is simple. Two to three days before they’re needed, buy the inevitably hard avocados, choosing those that feel heavy for their size when you heft them in the palm of your hand. Without crowding, place them in a brown paper bag along with an apple or tomato. (These fruits emit a harmless natural gas that speeds ripening.) Set the bag in a warm place away from direct sunlight and turn the bag once a day to ensure even ripening. The avocados should be ready to use within 3 days. You’ll know they’re ripe if they yield slightly to the touch when gently squeezed.
This cool, refreshing soup is a snap to make yet tastes as if it took a lot of time and effort. Lovely to look at, it has an intriguingly rich, slightly nutty taste. I use only Hass avocados, which have rough, pebbled, dark green skin (when very ripe, the skin turns almost black) and a deliciously buttery texture. Other types are much too watery and not nearly as flavorful. The finished soup should be creamy and a little thick. Since it doesn’t need to be reduced to become thick and flavorful, canned broth rather than homemade chicken stock works nicely here.
Like any dish made with avocado, the soup’s pale green color will darken when exposed to air for any period of time, so unless you’re prepared to face khaki-colored food, serve within a few hours of preparation. The addition of fresh lime juice brightens the taste and slows discoloration. SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A FIRST COURSE
½ small onion, chopped
6 small ripe Hass avocados (about 2½ pounds total), peeled, pitted, and cut into chunks
6 cups canned low-sodium chicken broth
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
¼ teaspoon ground cumin, or to taste
Dash of Tabasco sauce
Juice of 1 lime
For garnish: chopped fresh cilantro leaves and diced tomato, or sour cream
Working in two batches, combine half of all the ingredients except the garnish in a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Transfer the purée to a large serving bowl. Repeat with the remaining half, then add to the serving bowl. Stir, taste, and adjust the seasonings. Refrigerate, covered, to chill. Serve cold or slightly chilled, topped with cilantro and tomato or a dollop of sour cream.
At Chanterelle I buy veal soup bones by the huge frozen boxful. These bones come completely nude—stripped entirely of any meat. Since you can’t produce a flavorful stock from clean-as-a-whistle bones, I use beef shins cut through the bone in ¾-inch slices to beef up the flavor. If your veal bones have a little meat clinging to them, fine. But to ensure a greater depth of flavor, I recommend adding some beef.
This recipe makes a lot of stock, I know, and on top of that it involves a long, slow simmering time. But it’s easy to prepare and will keep for months in the freezer. Still, truth be told, although I believe that it’s best to make stock in large batches, you don’t have to if your storage space is limited. The recipe is easy to halve or even quarter. If the vegetable amounts aren’t exact, that’s okay—stock making isn’t rocket science. MAKES ABOUT 12 QUARTS
10 pounds veal bones, preferably with some meat left on
1- to 2-pound piece beef shin
¼ cup canola or other vegetable oil
3 large onions, unpeeled, cut into large chunks
4 carrots, unpeeled, cut into large chunks
3 heads garlic, cut in half through the cloves
12 to 15 quarts water
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Place the veal bones and beef in a large, flameproof roasting pan and drizzle with the oil. Place the pan in the oven and roast the bones for 25 minutes, turning them after about 12 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic, distributing the vegetables evenly among the bones. Continue to roast until nicely browned but not burned or blackened, 45 minutes to 1 hour more.
3. Transfer the bones and vegetables to a large stockpot. Discard the fat in the pan and add 4 cups of the water. Place over high heat and deglaze the roasting pan, scraping up the browned bits. Pour the liquid from the roasting pan over the bones and add enough of the remaining water to cover them well.
4. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, skimming the surface as the foam rises to the top. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 6 hours, skimming occasionally and adding water if it evaporates enough to uncover the bones.
5. Remove the bones and the meat and strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve. At this point the meat and vegetables won’t have much flavor, but if you’re a fan of overboiled food, by all means nibble away; otherwise, discard them.
6. Let the stock cool before transferring it to storage containers. The stock will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days, and in the freezer for 6 months. Skim the fat off the top before proceeding with a recipe.
Restaurants make and use incredible quantities of chicken stock. In the kitchen at Chanterelle I literally cannot count the number of times a day we dip a ladleful or pour a flavorful stream of it into a pot. A good homemade chicken stock is essential to anyone who likes to cook and enjoys well-prepared food. For the sake of convenience, low-sodium canned chicken broth can be used in most recipes in this book, but the truth is that any dish prepared with your own homemade stock will taste better.
The simple flavorings in this chicken stock are my version of mirepoix. In the French cooking tradition this is a mixture of coarsely chopped aromatic vegetables, usually carrots, onions or leeks, and celery; turnips or parsnips are sometimes included as well. The vegetables enhance and provide flavor but are not intended to become part of the final dish. I don’t add celery here because I dislike it. Feel free to add a rib or two if you like. MAKES ABOUT 9 QUARTS
10 pounds chicken necks, backs, and trimmings
3 large carrots, unpeeled, very roughly chopped
2 large onions, unpeeled, very roughly chopped
2 heads garlic, loose outer skins removed, cut crosswise in half
9 to 10 quarts cold water, or enough to cover
1. Combine all the ingredients in a stockpot that’s big enough to hold everything comfortably; the water should cover the bones and vegetables by 3 to 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat, skimming the surface as the foam rises to the top, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for at least 3 hours (4 is better). Add water if the stock seems to be reducing too much, and skim occasionally.
2. Remove the pot from the heat, let it cool, then strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into one or more storage containers. The stock will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Skim the fat off the top before proceeding with a recipe.
degreasing chicken stock
The easiest, most effective way to degrease homemade stock is to strain it into a clean container and refrigerate it overnight. The fat will rise to the top, forming a solid layer that’s easy to remove. At the restaurant, when we’re in too much of a hurry to wait for the stock to chill, we use another method. Before we strain the stock, we place the pot off center on the burner and turn up the heat so the stock reaches a low boil. The liquid in the side of the pot that’s resting on the burner will boil; the rest won’t. Due to some mysterious law of physics, the fat from the liquid on the boiling side will move to the other side, where it can be carefully ladled off.
After degreasing, if you won’t be using the entire amount of stock, simply strain it into a clean container and refrigerate. Any fat that remains can be removed the next day.
This is a light, mild-flavored stock suitable for use in seafood-based soups and stews and in sauces that will be served over broiled or sautéed fish. In general I like my fish stock to be as neutral as possible, and so I use a minimum of ingredients. If I want to bump up the flavor with bay leaves or freshly ground black pepper, I add them when the stock is combined with other ingredients. Choose only non-oily fish for stock and remove the bitter-tasting gills from the fish heads using kitchen shears or a knife. MAKES ABOUT 4 QUARTS
4 pounds assorted nonoily fish trimmings, including heads (gills removed), bones, and scraps from white-fleshed fish such as halibut, flounder, cod, grouper, or striped bass
3 large carrots, cut into chunks
2 large onions, unpeeled, very roughly chopped
4 quarts cold water
2 cups dry white wine
1. Rinse all the fish trimmings, ridding them of any traces of blood and making sure that any skin on the heads or scraps is free of scales.
2. Combine all the ingredients in a stockpot that’s big enough to hold everything comfortably; the liquid should cover the ingredients by 3 to 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat, skimming the surface as the foam rises to the top, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
3. Remove the pot from the heat and strain the stock through a fine sieve into one or more containers. The stock may be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months.