Since everyone on our staff loves pork—except the vegetarians, of course—it’s a frequent and very welcome main dish at staff meals. Pork has a habit of showing up in a wide range of preparations featuring every part of the pig, from chops, ribs, and roasts to bacon, ham, and sausage. In down-home mode pork is a relaxed, casual meat that loves to wallow in thick, spicy-sweet barbecue sauce. In its more elegant persona we enjoy Sautéed Pork Chops with a silky, piquant Sauce Charcutière (page 103) or pinwheel slices of Herbed Pinwheel Pork Loin (page 100). Our preference for pork also has a thrifty side, since a little goes a long way in dishes like Pork Goulash, Szeged Style (page 106), and Chinese-Style Meatballs for a Crowd (page 128).
It takes just a few minutes to butterfly a boneless loin (one of the tenderest parts of the pig), spread it with garlicky herb stuffing, and roll it up pinwheel-style for roasting. When the roast is sliced, each piece reveals an attractive whirligig spiral of stuffing. Serve with polenta, Potato Gratin (see box, page 329) or Spiced Applesauce (page 303). SERVES 4 TO 6
1 boneless pork loin (about 2 pounds), trimmed of fat
½ cup fine dry bread crumbs (see box, page 279)
¼ cup chopped mixed fresh herbs (some combination of thyme, sage, and oregano leaves)
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup heavy (or whipping) cream (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Make a deep lengthwise cut along one side of the pork loin from one end to the other and extending about two thirds of the way in. Open out the loin as you would a book. Starting on the left-hand side, at the bottom edge, slice through the thickness of the meat, easing your knife around the inner edge (what would be the spine of a book), and then along the top edge (do not slice along the outside edge). Again, open up this flap as you would a book. Repeat on the right side. Open out the right-side flap of the loin and set the loin aside while you prepare the stuffing.
3. Combine the bread crumbs, herbs, garlic, butter, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and stir well to mix. Spread the mixture over the opened-out pork loin, reserving a bit for the top of the roast. Roll up the loin from one long side and tie securely at 1-inch intervals with butcher’s twine. Spread the reserved stuffing on top of the loin, then place the loin in a flameproof roasting pan. Roast until just cooked through, 50 to 60 minutes. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast will register 150°F if you like your pork slightly pink, 155°F for well done.
4. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let it rest for a few minutes before untying and slicing.
5. Meanwhile, prepare a little sauce. Set the roasting pan over medium-high heat, pour in the wine, and bring to a boil, scraping up the little browned bits stuck to the pan. When the liquid is reduced to almost nothing, 2 to 3 minutes, pour in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cook until the stock is reduced by half, then stir in the cream, if desired, and reduce the sauce until a light, saucelike consistency is achieved, a minute or two more. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, if necessary, and cover to keep warm.
6. Untie the pork loin, then slice it and arrange on a serving platter. Serve immediately, accompanied by the sauce in a sauceboat.
pork pointers
Today’s pork is not the pork that most of us grew up eating. In the past twenty years, particularly the past ten, it has undergone a makeover. Due to changes in what hogs are fed, pork is now much higher in protein and contains far less fat, nearly 60 percent less than previously. It’s also more tender, because hogs are sent to market earlier. To ensure its staying moist and flavorful, this leaner, tenderer pork requires somewhat lower cooking temperatures than were once traditional.
I think of ham as a delicious convenience food for our staff meals. Brushed with a simple, lively-flavored glaze and popped into the oven for only an hour or so, its preparation is nearly effortless, which makes it a handy way to feed a crowd. I buy Fleur de Lis boneless smoked ham, which is an inexpensive supermarket ham with good flavor, but you could use any ham labeled “fully cooked” or “ready to eat.” The wonderful sharpness of the Dijon mustard in the glaze is mellowed just a bit by some honey and Madeira, while the balsamic vinegar–soy sauce combination broadens the spectrum of flavor and also burnishes the ham with some appetizing color. Depending on the season, serve with Summertime Creamed Corn (page 313) or Potato Gratin (see box, page 329). SERVES 8 TO 10
½ cup Dijon mustard
½ cup honey
2 tablespoons Madeira or medium-dry sherry
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman 1 boneless cooked smoked ham (about 4 pounds)
2 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Combine the mustard, honey, Madeira, vinegar, and soy sauce in a small bowl and whisk until smooth.
3. Place the ham in a flameproof roasting pan and brush well with the mustard glaze. Roast the ham in the preheated oven, brushing it with the glaze at 20-minute intervals, until nicely glazed and browned, about 1 hour.
4. Transfer the ham to a serving platter. Pour the chicken stock into the roasting pan, set it over high heat, and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Pour the contents of the roasting pan into a 1½-quart saucepan and return to a boil. Whisk in any unused glaze, then bring the glaze to a boil and add the butter. Stir until the butter is incorporated, then remove the pan from the heat.
5. To serve, slice the ham, arrange it on a serving platter, and pass the sauce in a gravy boat.
Hefty hunks of meat like these double-cut pork chops benefit from a refined, complex sauce that keeps each bite exciting. The one here is an updated, slightly lighter version of a French classic. Sherry vinegar and Dijon mustard add a distinctive piquancy to the silky sauce, as do the tart, coarsely chopped cornichons that provide surprising little pockets of crunchiness. If you prefer, the chops can be grilled rather than sautéed. Everyday Mashed Potatoes (page 334) are a must with this dish, and some lightly cooked kale, Swiss chard, or spinach would be nice as well. SERVES 6
2 medium onions, finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
⅓ cup sherry vinegar, or more as needed
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, or more as needed
½ cup coarsely chopped cornichons
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 double-cut loin pork chops (about 12 ounces each)
3 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
1. Heat the olive oil in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the wine and ⅓ cup vinegar and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, uncovered, until the liquid is reduced to approximately ¼ cup, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the chicken stock, bay leaves, and tomato paste and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Whisk in 3 tablespoons mustard and the chopped cornichons and return to a boil. Continue reducing the mixture until it’s slightly thickened and of a light saucelike consistency, about 45 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, adding more vinegar or mustard if needed. Set aside, covered, to keep warm.
4. Season the pork chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat (see Note). When the oil has just begun to smoke, add the chops, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté until the chops are nicely browned on both sides and cooked through, about 10 minutes per side.
5. To serve, divide the chops among six dinner plates and spoon the hot sauce over them.
Note: It’s important not to crowd the chops in the skillet, so you may have to use two pans. For smaller skillets, use about 2 tablespoons oil for each.
In this southern specialty thickly cut pork chops are first browned, then simmered in a tenderizing, onion-flavored sauce. Each ingredient gives itself up to the others in a transformational exchange of flavors. The result is a homey main course that’s nothing short of ambrosial. Heap the pork chops on a platter, smother them with the same hearty, gravylike sauce they were braised in, and set out a big bowl of Everyday Mashed Potatoes (page 334) or some hash browns. SERVES 4
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 center-cut loin pork chops (8 to 10 ounces each), trimmed of fat
2 medium onions, sliced lengthwise
1 heaping tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth, or more as needed
½ cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
¼ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops and sauté until well browned on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the chops to a platter and set aside.
2. Reduce the heat to medium and add the sliced onions to the drippings in the skillet. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 10 minutes.
3. Sprinkle the onions with the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour is slightly browned but not burned, about 3 minutes. Add 2 cups chicken stock, the wine, bay leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet. Return the chops to the skillet, spooning the sauce over them, and reduce the heat so the sauce is just barely simmering. Cover and cook until the chops are cooked through, 1 to 1½ hours. Check the chops during cooking. If the liquid level seems low, add more stock to keep the chops from sticking.
4. Remove the skillet from the heat and discard the bay leaf. Add the vinegar, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve from the skillet, or transfer the chops to a platter and spoon the sauce over them.
This is one of my very favorite main dishes, one that I always enjoy cooking and eating. Its simple, forthright flavors never fail to please me or the staff when it appears on the table at our meal. Simmering the sauerkraut in the stew softens the texture and mellows its distinctive taste. The combination of sweet and hot Hungarian paprikas makes this goulash, which is named for a Hungarian city renowned for paprika, just spicy enough to justify a cooling dollop of sour cream atop each serving. For more about paprika, see page 163. SERVES 8
¼ cup canola or other vegetable oil, or more as needed
2½ pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into 1½-inch cubes
2 large onions, sliced
3 strips thickly sliced good-quality smoked bacon, rind removed and discarded, cut crosswise into ⅛-inch pieces
4 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup sweet Hungarian paprika, or more as needed
1 tablespoon hot Hungarian paprika, or more as needed
2 bay leaves
2 bags (16 ounces each) sauerkraut (do not use canned)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Coarse (kosher) salt, to taste
½ teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
Sour cream, for serving
1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add enough of the pork to fit into the skillet comfortably and sauté until well browned on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Remove the pork to a platter and set it aside while you brown the remaining pieces, adding more oil to the skillet, if necessary.
2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large, nonreactive pot over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and bacon and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the bacon renders some of its fat but is not browned, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the pork to the pot along with any juices that have accumulated, as well as the chicken stock, both paprikas, and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 45 minutes, skimming off any fat as it rises to the top.
4. Stir in the sauerkraut and vinegar and continue simmering until the sauerkraut is heated through, the flavors are blended, and the pork is very tender but not falling apart, about 20 minutes.
5. Remove the pot from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Season with salt and more paprika, then add the caraway seeds, if desired, and serve. Pass a bowl of sour cream at the table.
I can no longer recall which wisecracking staff member gave this rich, satisfying stew its inelegant yet truthful name, but I assure you we all love the dish. The pig’s feet are a must, as are the smoked ham hocks and cooked ham. The duck confit, of course, is not technically a pig part, so consider it an honored guest ingredient here. You can vary the meats, but bear in mind that the goal is to use as many smoked ones as possible so the beans have plenty of opportunities to absorb their smoky essences. Some type of garlicky sausage is also desirable, though if you don’t have any, a thickly sliced frankfurter will do. Other possible additions might be bits of browned bacon, pancetta, chorizo, and leftover braised or roast pork.
Plan on making the stew 2 days ahead and refrigerating it. The fat will rise to the top and harden, making it very easy to remove. Serve with a global assortment of hot sauces and a big bowl of white rice. SERVES A HORDE (15 TO 20 PEOPLE)
6 cups dried black beans
2½ quarts cold water
3 pig’s feet, split lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces
3 smoked ham hocks (about 8 ounces each)
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
4 large cloves garlic, minced
6 bay leaves
6 quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups red wine
Coarse (kosher) salt
3 pounds mixed meats, including cooked ham cut into 1-inch cubes, thickly sliced garlic sausage, and several pieces Confit of Duck (page 201)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Tabasco sauce, to taste
Red wine vinegar, to taste
1. Place the beans in a large bowl or other container and cover with the cold water by 2 inches. Let soak, in the refrigerator, for at least 8 hours and up to 24.
2. While the beans are soaking, prepare the stock: Combine the pig’s feet, ham hocks, onions, garlic, bay leaves, chicken stock, and red wine in a very large, nonreactive stockpot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady simmer and cook, partially covered, until the pig’s feet are tender, about 1 hour. Transfer the pig’s-feet pieces to a bowl and set aside. Continue simmering the stock, partially covered, until the ham hocks are tender, 1 to 1½ hours more.
3. Transfer the ham hocks to a plate and strain the stock into one or more large containers. Refrigerate, covered, for 8 to 12 hours.
4. When it’s cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the cooled ham hocks and cut it into 1-inch chunks. Add it to the bowl with the pig’s feet and refrigerate, covered, until you’re ready to use it.
5. When you’re ready to proceed with the recipe, remove the hardened fat from the chilled stock. Return the stock to the stockpot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the beans and a good sprinkling of salt, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the beans are almost tender, 30 to 45 minutes (or longer, depending on the age of the beans). You may have to add water to keep the beans submerged.
6. Add the reserved ham hock meat and pig’s feet to the beans, along with the ham, garlic sausage, confit, and any other meats you’ve chosen. Continue simmering the stew until the beans and all the meats are quite tender, 45 minutes more.
7. Remove the pot from the heat and season with salt, pepper, Tabasco, and a splash or two of red wine vinegar. Serve in big bowls.
Although barbecue seems to be firmly implanted in most people’s minds as summer food, at Chanterelle we indulge our craving for it even in the dead of winter with these succulent oven-roasted ribs. Chinese hoisin sauce is the magic ingredient in the thick, spicy-sweet barbecue sauce, which is equally wonderful on chicken. The recipe makes enough sauce for three racks of ribs or two 3- to 3½-pound chickens. I like to marinate the ribs in the sauce overnight, but even if you decide to make them on the spur of the moment they’ll still turn out wonderfully—burnished to a reddish sheen and thickly encrusted with sauce. Serve with traditional picnic sides like Cider Vinegar Slaw (page 310) or Slightly Southern Potato Salad (page 333). SERVES 6
1 cup ketchup
1 cup tomato purée
1 cup hoisin sauce
¼ cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons dark molasses
2 tablespoons Tabasco sauce
2 large cloves garlic, minced 3 racks pork spareribs (about 2 pounds each)
1. Place the ketchup, tomato purée, hoisin sauce, vinegar, mustard, molasses, Tabasco, and garlic in a medium-size bowl and stir well to mix.
2. Place the ribs in a very large, nonreactive roasting pan. Pour the ketchup mixture over the ribs and turn to coat completely, using your hands to spread the marinade around. At this point you can marinate the ribs, covered, for up to 12 hours in the refrigerator, or you can go ahead and cook them now.
3. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line with aluminum foil one or two shallow, nonreactive roasting pans large enough to hold the ribs in one layer.
4. Remove the racks of ribs from the pan they marinated in, reserving the marinade, and arrange, meaty-side up, in the prepared roasting pan(s), making sure they don’t overlap. Roast the ribs for 20 to 30 minutes to render as much of the fat as possible; pour or spoon off the fat and discard. Reduce the oven temperature to 275°F and cook the ribs, brushing with reserved marinade every 30 minutes and turning several times, until they’re tender and the glaze has caramelized and become crispy and blackened in places, 1½ to 2 hours more (see Note). Let the ribs cook for 10 minutes after the last brush with the marinade.
5. To serve, cut the racks into individual ribs and pile them on a platter.
Note: If desired, the ribs may be cooked partially on the grill. After dousing the ribs with marinade as described above, preheat the grill. Arrange the ribs, without overlapping, on the hot grill rack and cook until nicely browned on both sides, about 15 minutes per side. Transfer the ribs to foil-lined roasting pan(s) and cook in the oven for 1½ to 2 hours more, as described above.
measuring sticky ingredients
Measuring hoisin sauce, honey, or molasses needn’t be a messy proposition. Just coat the inside of the measuring cup lightly with vegetable oil and thick, sticky ingredients slide right out.
the chanterelle staff picnic
A few years ago we realized it was important for the staff to take a breather together away from the restaurant, to relax and unwind, and to enjoy being outdoors. So early one fall we held the first Chanterelle picnic at our house in Woodstock.
The group gathered at the crack of dawn in front of the restaurant to board a rickety old chartered yellow school bus. The ride turned out to be hair raising—it would become the stuff of legend—but once the survivors finally arrived, they were greeted with washtubs filled with beers, huge bowls of olives, Baba Ghanouj (page 320), Herbed Summer Hummus (page 317), and rice salad, platters loaded with local corn and tomatoes, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, and Confit of Duck (page 201). The aroma of Grilled Quail with Scallions (page 204), Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb (page 87), and Wild Turkey Glazed Ribs (following page) on the grills wafted in the air. Everyone doing the cooking was in an expansive mood. (That’s because professional cooks spend so much time in the kitchen that they rarely have the fun of actually seeing people enjoy their food.) Other staff and friends contributed homemade baked goods to our decadent dessert table. The picnic was exhausting but so much fun that it became an annual affair.
The picnic has evolved over the years. Now we set up volleyball and badminton areas and have a trampoline that makes everyone giddy, especially the kids. And we rent lots of bikes so people can pedal to the nearby state park to go canoeing. Each year’s picnic is more fun than the last. But one thing stays the same—as the sun sets and the evening turns chilly, we all gather around a backyard bonfire instead of a restaurant stove. It’s a nice change.
The slow-sipping, mellow character of bourbon has always suited my palate, in a glass and as an ingredient. Compared to the sophisticated, somewhat standoffish refinement of brandy, bourbon is sturdy and straightforward in the kitchen. Always searching for a way to use bourbon, I’ve discovered that its sweet, no-nonsense flavor is perfectly at home in this garlicky glaze, where it adds depth and a sweet edge to the taste. The recipe makes enough glaze for two racks of spareribs, but it can be doubled if you need more. Serve with collard greens, Slightly Southern Potato Salad (page 333), or baked sweet potatoes. SERVES 4
¼ to ⅓ cup Wild Turkey or other good-quality bourbon, to taste
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 racks pork spareribs (about 2 pounds each)
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line with aluminum foil a shallow roasting pan large enough to hold the ribs in one layer.
2. Combine the bourbon, garlic, honey, mustard, Tabasco, salt, and Worcestershire sauce in a small bowl. Stir well to mix.
3. Brush the racks of ribs on both sides with the glaze, then arrange, meaty-side up, in the prepared pan, making sure they don’t overlap. Roast the ribs for 20 to 30 minutes to render as much of the fat as possible; pour or spoon off the fat and discard. Reduce the oven temperature to 275°F and cook the ribs, brushing with reserved marinade every 30 minutes and turning several times, until they’re tender and the glaze has caramelized and become crispy and blackened in places, 1½ to 2 hours more (see Note). Let the ribs cook for 10 minutes after the last brush with the marinade.
4. To serve, cut the racks into individual ribs and pile them on a platter.
Irresistibly tender, these diminutive saucy riblets are meant to be held between your fingers and gnawed on with abandon. They’re perfect fare for buffet-style parties. Finger licking is inevitable, though that does not preclude the necessity of having a plentiful supply of paper napkins nearby. Unless you have a bandsaw at home, you’ll need to ask the butcher to cut the racks of ribs crosswise at 1-inch intervals. He’ll probably look at you like you’re crazy, but be persistent. Once this is accomplished, you’ll easily be able to cut in between the bones of each strip to create little bite-size riblets. Dusting the ribs with cornstarch before frying keeps them crisp on the outside without burning, and also helps thicken the braising sauce a bit. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 large rack lean, meaty pork ribs (about 3 pounds), cut into 1-inch pieces
¾ cup good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
4¼ cups canola or other vegetable oil
½ cup cornstarch
2 bunches scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 piece (4 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium head garlic, cloves peeled and coarsely chopped
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¾ cup fermented Chinese black beans
¼ cup dry sherry
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
Red wine vinegar, to taste
1. Place the rib pieces in a large bowl. Combine ¼ cup of the soy sauce with the balsamic vinegar, sesame oil, and sugar in a small bowl and whisk well to blend. Pour over the rib pieces and mix well, using your hands, until all the pieces are coated with some of the marinade. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 8 hours and up to 12.
2. When you’re ready to cook the ribs, heat 4 cups of the canola oil in a deep-fryer or deep, heavy skillet until a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°F.
3. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the ribs and toss to coat. Working in batches, add the rib pieces to the hot oil and fry until well browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the pieces to paper towels to drain.
4. Heat the remaining ¼ cup oil in a medium-size, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the scallions, ginger, and garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, until wilted and aromatic but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock, black beans, remaining ½ cup soy sauce, the sherry, and pepper flakes and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the fried rib pieces and return to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the meat is tender but not falling off the bone, about 45 minutes. Stir occasionally as the ribs cook, adding a little water if needed.
5. Remove the pan from the heat and add a splash or two of red wine vinegar. Transfer to a deep platter and serve immediately.
In Indonesia saté (or satay) is a traditional snack food of skewered tidbits grilled over hot coals and dipped in a spicy peanut sauce. Street vendors selling saté are as ubiquitous in the bazaars of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand as pretzel or hot dog vendors are on the streets of New York City. In my version bitesize pieces of pork are marinated overnight in a multicultural mixture, but morsels of chicken, beef sirloin, duck, or seafood may be substituted. This is delicious as an hors d’oeuvre, but I like to pile the skewers on a platter, set out a bowl of the sauce, and serve saté as a main course along with Cucumber Salad with Red Onion and Chinese Sausage (page 314) and Thai Rice Noodles (page 284). Cold bottles of Thai Singha beer would be the perfect beverage with this meal. SERVES 2 TO 4
1 large onion, cut into chunks
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 can (13 or 14 ounces) coconut milk, preferably a Thai brand
4 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon Madras-style curry powder, preferably Sun brand
1 pork tenderloin (about 1 pound), trimmed of fat Spicy Peanut Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Combine the onion and garlic in a food processor and process to a coarse purée. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the coconut milk, lemongrass, fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, turmeric, and curry powder. Set aside.
2. Cut the pork tenderloin crosswise into 3-inch-thick pieces, then cut each piece lengthwise into ½-inch slices. Place the slices in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over them. Toss the pieces to coat thoroughly, then refrigerate, covered, for at least 8 hours and up to 12.
3. Place bamboo skewers at least 12 inches long in a baking dish long enough to hold them and cover with water. Let them soak for 2 hours.
4. Preheat a barbecue grill or preheat the broiler.
5. While the grill is preheating, drain the skewers and remove the pork from the marinade. Using one piece per skewer, thread the pork onto the skewers lengthwise like a piece of ribbon. Place the skewers on the grill rack over the hot coals or on a broiler rack in the broiler and grill or broil until nicely browned on all sides and a bit charred in places, 2 to 3 minutes per side.
6. Using tongs, transfer the skewers to a serving platter and serve immediately, accompanied by a bowl of spicy peanut sauce for dipping.
After you’ve made this sauce once, you’ll probably want to adjust it to suit your taste. This version is fairly sweet, but you can use less sugar or add some chili sauce to make it hotter. I sometimes add ¼ cup strained tamarind pulp (see page 372) along with the other ingredients, or sprinkle the finished sauce with chopped fresh cilantro leaves before serving it. The sauce has a tendency to thicken as it cools, but it can easily be thinned by whisking in a little water or coconut milk. It should be served at room temperature, which is when the sauce’s texture is at its best. Any leftover sauce will keep well in the refrigerator in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks. MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
1¼ cups chunky peanut butter
¼ cup sugar
1 can (13 or 14 ounces) coconut milk, preferably a Thai brand
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
¾ teaspoon Madras-style curry powder, preferably Sun brand
½ teaspoon Thai red curry paste (optional)
¼ teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and beat with the whisk attachment of an electric mixer until thoroughly blended and smooth (see Note). Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving.
Note: If you don’t have a mixer, combine all the ingredients except the peanut butter in a small, nonreactive saucepan and bring just to a boil, then remove from the heat and whisk in the peanut butter. Cool to room temperature before serving.
The beauty of Wiener schnitzel is its understated, almost chaste character. Unembellished and unencumbered by superfluous ingredients or garnishes, it allows the cook to concentrate exclusively on creating the crisp, grease-free crust that envelops the tender, pounded meat. Simplicity is schnitzel’s charm. Once on the table, all it needs is a squirt of lemon juice to achieve perfection.
In the United States it’s a common misconception that Wiener schnitzel is made only with veal. In reality it can be made with either pork or veal, and Austrian and German menus always specify which is being offered. SERVES 4 TO 6
2 pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each)
1 clove garlic, peeled and cut in half
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 large eggs
1 cup all-purpose flour
1½ cups milk
2 cups fine dry bread crumbs (see page 279)
1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, clarified (see page 391; also see Note)
2 lemons, cut into wedges and seeded, for garnish
1. Trim the pork tenderloins of all fat and sinew, then cut them crosswise into slices 1½ inches thick. Place each slice between two sheets of waxed paper and pound thin with a meat pounder or rolling pin. Rub each piece of pork on both sides with the cut side of the garlic and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Place the flour in a shallow bowl and the bread crumbs in a second shallow bowl. Line the bowls up: first flour, then eggs, then bread crumbs. One by one, dip each piece of pork in the flour, shaking off any excess, then in the egg, then in the bread crumbs to coat on both sides, shaking gently to remove excess crumbs. Place the pork as it is breaded on a platter, without stacking or allowing the pieces to touch.
3. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting.
4. Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. The butter should be hot enough for the pork to sizzle on contact but not so hot that the butter browns. Add enough of the pork pieces to fit without crowding and sauté on both sides until a beautiful golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Using a slotted spatula, remove the pork to a platter and keep it warm in the oven while you sauté the remaining pieces. Add more butter to the pan as necessary.
5. Arrange the Wiener schnitzel on a flat platter, without stacking, and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve immediately.
Note: Chances are you’ll have some clarified butter left over. Store this extra, covered, in the refrigerator, where it will keep for 1 week. Use it to sauté thin veal and chicken scallops or tender vegetables like summer squash (sliced), or to fry up leftover potatoes into Sunday hash browns.
Although there are far more varieties of eggplant available to us now than there were in the past, only the long, slim, delicately flavored Asian ones will do for this recipe (see box). Don’t be tempted to substitute the larger, more commonplace American eggplants here; they will be too bitter and watery to work well. I’ve made this with both ground chicken and ground turkey, but pork is the perfect choice, due to its nearly magical capacity to absorb the strong seasonings of the sauce.
For a satisfying supper, serve this with Broccoli with Oyster Sauce (page 307) and plain steamed rice. To create a multicourse feast, add such other dishes as Hot and Sour Soup (page 6), Sesame-Crusted Fish Fillets with Garlic-Ginger Sauce (page 230), and Cucumber Salad with Red Onion and Chinese Sausage (page 314). SERVES 6
5 Chinese or Japanese eggplants (about 6 ounces each)
¼ to ½ cup canola or other vegetable oil, or more as needed
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
4 cloves garlic, either thinly sliced or coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons Chinese fermented black beans
8 ounces ground pork
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
Dash of Asian sesame oil
1 bunch garlic chives or scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and cut into ½-inch lengths
1. Roll-cut the eggplants, Chinese-style, into 1-inch pieces. To do this, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle and cut a 1-inch slice off the end of one of the eggplants. Roll the eggplant halfway around on the cutting board, then cut off a second slice 1 inch from the last cut and again at a 45-degree angle. Continue in this fashion until this and the other eggplants are cut up.
2. Heat ¼ cup of the oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat. Add half the eggplant, then reduce the heat to medium high and stir-fry until the eggplant is lightly browned and tender but not mushy, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the cooked eggplant to a colander and repeat the process with the remaining eggplant, adding more oil if necessary.
3. When all the eggplant is cooked, there should still be some oil in the wok; if not, add a bit more, only enough for a light coating. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry over medium-high heat until aromatic but not browned, only a few seconds. Add the black beans, stir rapidly, and then add the pork. Cook and stir the mixture, using a wooden spoon to break up the pork, until the pork is about two thirds of the way to being fully cooked (still a little pink), 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil and simmer for 1 minute, stirring. Return the eggplant to the wok, tossing to reheat it and coat with the sauce. Add the garlic chives or scallions, toss again to mix, and serve immediately.
chinese and japanese eggplant
Small, thin-skinned Chinese and Japanese eggplants have fewer seeds and are sweeter than the more common and larger dark purple American eggplant. Neither type requires salting to draw out bitterness, as the American does. The lavender-colored Chinese eggplant is long, slender, and sometimes slightly curved. The deep purple Japanese eggplant, which is slightly shorter and narrower, is occasionally a bit less sweet than the Chinese kind. When shopping, look for Asian eggplants that are firm and heavy for their size, with smooth, glossy, unblemished skin.
Karen’s mother, Gaby, whose family came from Hungary, loves this dish. I use major amounts of both sweet and hot Hungarian paprika in the sauce, as well as in the ground pork filling, to create a big, bold flavor that is less sweet and more piquant than most versions. Although you could certainly use any type of cabbage, I prefer sweetly flavorful Savoy cabbage. Bagged sauerkraut, stocked in supermarket refrigerator cases, is the sauerkraut of choice—unless, of course, you can find old-fashioned fresh sauerkraut sold from a barrel.
The sauce can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, if you like, and leftover cabbage rolls can easily be frozen for another meal. MAKES ABOUT 24 ROLLS; SERVES 12
FOR THE SAUCE:
3 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
4 medium onions, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
8 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
⅓ cup sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons hot Hungarian paprika
4 bay leaves
4 bags (16 ounces each) sauerkraut (do not use canned)
FOR THE CABBAGE ROLLS:
3 medium heads cabbage (about 4 pounds), withered or discolored outer leaves removed
3 medium onions, cut into large chunks
5 pounds lean ground pork
8 ounces good-quality smoked bacon, rind removed and discarded, finely diced
2 cups cooked long-grain rice
2 large cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons hot Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt
Sour cream, for serving (optional)
1. First, make the sauce: Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock, both paprikas, and the bay leaves and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a steady simmer and cook, uncovered, to develop the flavors, 10 minutes. Add the sauerkraut along with its juices and simmer for another 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside while you prepare the cabbage rolls.
2. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. While it comes to a boil, cut around the core at the stem end of each cabbage without removing the core; this will facilitate removal of the leaves. Plunge 1 head of cabbage at a time into the boiling water and, using tongs, peel off the leaves from each head as they soften, avoiding the smaller core leaves; you will need 24 good-size leaves. As you remove the leaves from the water, place them in a colander to drain. When they’re cool enough to handle, pat dry with paper towels and set aside while you prepare the stuffing.
3. Place the onions in a food processor and process to a purée. Transfer to a large bowl and add the pork, bacon, rice, garlic, both paprikas, and salt. Using your hands or a wooden spoon, mix well.
4. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
5. Spread a cabbage leaf, inner-side up, on your work surface, stem end toward you, first trimming away the spine of the leaf if it’s very thick. Place a small handful of stuffing (about ½ cup) at the stem end of the leaf, fold the sides over the filling, and roll the leaf up. Adjust the amount of stuffing for the size of the leaf you’re working on so each roll is firmly wrapped and won’t come undone. Place each roll as it is finished in a large roasting pan or casserole, setting it seam-side down and making even rows as you go; you may have to make two layers.
6. Remove the bay leaves from the sauce and discard, then ladle the sauce over the cabbage rolls. Cover the pan lightly with aluminum foil and bake until good and hot and bubbling, about 1 hour.
7. Serve the cabbage rolls directly from the casserole or arrange them on a large platter. If you’re serving on the platter, spoon some of the sauce over the rolls and serve the remainder on the side. If desired, pass a bowl of sour cream.
Every cook needs at least a couple of recipes in his or her repertoire for transforming mundane leftover rice into something interesting for dinner. I rely on Highly Adaptable Shrimp Fried Rice (page 294) or this recipe, which is colorful, cheerful, and good to eat. For the best flavor, buy sweet Italian sausages made with fennel seeds.
In the summer fresh marjoram, which is spicy and a bit sweet, is a good alternative to fresh oregano. But if you can’t find it fresh, don’t substitute dried marjoram, which tends to taste dry and boring. If you serve the peppers with a green salad and some sautéed zucchini or green beans on the side, you’ll have enough to feed four. Otherwise, serve two peppers per person. SERVES 2 TO 4
3 sweet Italian sausages (about 1 pound total), casings removed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled and grated
2 cups cooked rice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried oregano leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 medium red bell peppers
1 cup dry white wine
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage meat and sauté until browned, about 10 minutes, stirring and breaking up the pieces with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
3. Add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the carrot and cook another minute. Stir in the rice, oregano, parsley, salt, and pepper. Stir well to mix. Remove the skillet from the heat.
4. Slice off the tops of the peppers and discard. Use a paring knife to remove the white pith and seeds from each pepper.
5. Fill each pepper with the rice stuffing, packing it in well and mounding it over the top as much as possible. Place the stuffed peppers in a baking dish just large enough to hold them. Pour the wine into the bottom of the dish, and cover the whole dish with aluminum foil.
6. Bake until the peppers have softened and are cooked through, but not so much that they collapse, 40 to 45 minutes. Check the peppers as they cook in case you need to add a bit of water to the baking dish.
7. Carefully remove the peppers to plates or shallow bowls and serve immediately.
This French classic from Alsace is copious and satisfying, a dish to fortify body and soul on a cold, wintry day. The mellow sauerkraut provides a delicious base for an appetizing array of smoked and fresh meats, each adding another dimension to the final flavor. Some cooks rinse fresh or bagged sauerkraut before using it, but I don’t bother with this since I like the way its powerful brininess complements the meats. A platter of choucroute is a very handy way to use up the leftover pieces of meat or poultry that have been biding their time in your refrigerator or freezer—that solitary ham end, lonely sausage, or stray chicken or duck leg. Variety is the essence of this dish. Serve with small boiled potatoes and a little pot of coarse French mustard. SERVES 6 TO 8
3 smoked ham hocks (about 8 ounces each)
6 cups Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
3 strips thickly sliced good-quality smoked bacon, rind removed and discarded, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium onions, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
⅓ cup gin
2 cups slightly sweet white wine, such as Riesling
1 bouquet garni (1 tablespoon each juniper berries and black peppercorns and 3 bay leaves, tied up in a piece of cheesecloth)
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and grated
3 bags (16 ounces each) sauerkraut (do not use canned)
1 pound smoked sausage
2 pounds smoked ham, trimmed of fat and cut into 8 pieces
Coarse (kosher) salt, to taste
1. Place the ham hocks and chicken stock in a medium-size saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the hocks are tender, about 2 hours. Remove the hocks from the stock, reserving both.
2. Place the bacon in a large, nonreactive Dutch oven or other flameproof casserole and sauté over medium heat until rendered of fat and somewhat crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the onions and garlic and cook, covered, until the onions are translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes, uncovering occasionally to stir.
3. Add the reserved liquid from the ham hocks, the gin, wine, bouquet garni, apples, and sauerkraut. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partly covered, until the flavors have blended and the sauerkraut is very tender, about 1 hour.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
5. Nestle the sausage, ham, and ham hocks in the sauerkraut and bake, covered, until everything is bubbling nicely, about 45 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni, season with salt, and serve from the casserole.
buying sauerkraut
Sauerkraut (“sour cabbage” in German) is simply salted shredded cabbage that has been allowed to ferment in its own juices. It can be eaten cooked or uncooked. Prior to cooking, it has a powerfully sour mouth-puckering flavor and is tremendously salty; after cooking, it becomes pleasantly mellow. Sauerkraut is sold three ways. When I have access to it, I prefer the fresh, but it can be difficult to find. Look for it at old-fashioned delis (sometimes sold from a barrel) and Eastern European meat or specialty food shops. The next best kind, which works just fine in the recipes here, is packaged in plastic bags and can be found in supermarket or deli refrigerator cases. The canned or jarred sauerkraut at supermarkets should be avoided.
These oversize meatballs are perfumed with fresh ginger, garlic, and Asian seasonings, pan-fried until crispy on the outside, nestled between layers of bok choy, and topped with a rich, savory sauce. They make a great party dish for an informal gathering. The recipe is a variation on a classic casserolelike Chinese dish called Lion’s Head, in which the meatballs represent lions’ heads and the layers of bok choy their shaggy manes. MAKES 20 MEATBALLS; SERVES 10
TO BEGIN:
12 dried shiitake mushrooms
3 ounces dried wood ear mushrooms
3 cups chopped Savoy or napa cabbage
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt
FOR THE SAUCE:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably peanut
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2½ quarts Chicken Stock (page 39) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
⅓ cup rice vinegar
⅓ cup oyster sauce
¼ cup hot bean paste
3 tablespoons good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
2 tablespoons sugar
12 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted (from above, see step 1)
¼ cup cornstarch
½ cup cold water
3 pounds ground pork
3 cups chopped Savoy or napa cabbage (from To Begin), soaked (see step 1)
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and grated (1½ to 2 tablespoons)
3 ounces dried wood ear mushrooms (from To Begin), reconstituted (see step 1)
2 bunches scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
⅓ cup good-quality soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
2 large egg whites
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Canola or other vegetable oil, for frying
1 cup cornstarch, for coating the meatballs, or more as needed
4 large heads bok choy, leaves only
1. Place the shiitake and wood ear mushrooms in separate medium-size bowls with very warm water to cover. Let soak for 30 minutes to soften. Combine the cabbage and salt in a colander and let stand for 30 minutes in the sink to draw out some of the moisture from the cabbage.
2. Lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid, leaving the grit behind. Trim away any stems from the shiitakes and slice the caps. Set aside. Trim away any hard parts from the wood ears, chop them, and set aside. Discard the wood ear soaking liquid and strain the shiitake soaking liquid through a strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Add it to the sauce with the chicken stock in step 4 or cover, refrigerate, and save for use at another time. Rinse the cabbage, then drain, squeeze dry, and set aside.
3. Prepare the sauce: Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the chicken stock, vinegar, oyster sauce, hot bean paste, soy sauce, sugar, and shiitake mushrooms. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce, uncovered, until it’s somewhat reduced and its flavors are developed, about 30 minutes.
5. Whisk the cornstarch with the water to blend. When smooth, whisk it into the simmering sauce. Continue to simmer, stirring, until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute more. Remove the saucepan from the heat and taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside, covered, while you prepare the meatballs.
6. Place the pork in a large bowl. Add the salted cabbage, garlic, ginger, wood ears, about two thirds of the sliced scallions, the soy sauce, egg whites, sesame oil, salt, sugar, and pepper. Using your hands, mix well, then divide the mixture into twenty equal portions. Form each portion into a round ball slightly larger than a golf ball.
7. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
8. Pour canola oil into a large, deep skillet to a depth of ½ inch and heat over medium-high heat until a pinch of cornstarch sizzles on contact. While the oil heats, spread about 1 cup cornstarch on a plate and coat 6 or 7 meatballs in the cornstarch to coat completely, shaking off any excess. Add the coated meatballs to the hot oil in the skillet, being careful not to crowd them. Reduce the heat to medium and fry the meatballs, turning with tongs, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Remove the meatballs to paper towels to drain while you coat and fry the remaining meatballs, working in two batches and remembering to turn up the heat to medium high before adding the next batch.
9. Wipe out the skillet and add 1 tablespoon canola oil. Heat over medium heat, then add a handful of the bok choy leaves. Sauté to wilt, 45 to 60 seconds, then remove to a bowl. Continue sautéing the remainder of the bok choy, working in batches and adding more oil as needed.
10. Spread half the bok choy leaves in a large, shallow, ovenproof casserole or baking pan. Add the meatballs in one layer, then top with the remaining bok choy. Sprinkle with the remaining sliced scallions. Pour the reserved sauce evenly over the top and bake until heated through and bubbling, about 20 minutes.
11. Serve immediately from the casserole.
You won’t find many dishes as quick and satisfying to make as this unfussy combination of Italian sausages sautéed with lots of peppers, a few carefully chosen seasonings, and a little wine. If you’re lucky, there’ll be leftovers for sandwiches the next day. I like to use a combination of sweet and hot Italian sausages, and sometimes I substitute a yellow pepper for one of the green or red ones for additional color. The wine and tomato purée combine with the juices from the peppers and onions to create a thin yet lively-tasting gravy. SERVES 4 TO 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds sweet or hot Italian sausages
2 green bell peppers, stemmed, halved, seeded, and cut into thin crosswise slices
2 red bell peppers, stemmed, halved, seeded, and cut into thin crosswise slices
1 large onion, sliced lengthwise
2 large cloves garlic, minced
½ cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
2 tablespoons tomato purée
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Prick each sausage in several places with the tines of a fork, then add to the hot oil and sauté until well browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the sausages to a plate and set aside. Pour off most of the oil leaving a layer about ⅛ inch deep.
2. Add the bell peppers, onion, and garlic to the drippings in the skillet and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and the vegetables are starting to brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Return the sausages to the skillet along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate. Add the wine, bay leaves, oregano, tomato purée, salt, and pepper and stir to mix. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sausages are cooked through, the sauce has thickened, and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes.
3. Remove the skillet from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve directly from the skillet, or arrange the sausages on a platter and top with the peppers and sauce.
Once you get the hang of it, sausage making is very satisfying. It’s a lot easier than you might imagine, and the results are unquestionably worth the effort. Correct equipment is essential to success—a hand-operated metal meat grinder that clamps onto the countertop makes all the difference in the world to the texture. One that comes with a sausage-stuffer attachment makes stuffing the mixture into casings much easier. Filling the casings by hand with a large pastry bag fitted with a plain ½-inch tip is certainly doable if you don’t have a stuffer attachment. However, if stuffing casings seems daunting, you’ll be relieved to know that any fresh sausage mixture can simply be formed into patties.
This recipe yields an ample supply of garlicky, slightly smoky sausages to eat by themselves or use in recipes. (Slab bacon gives an appetizing smokiness without the bother of having to smoke the sausages.) Devour what you can within a day or two, then freeze the remainder of the sausages (or patties) for up to 3 months. Try homemade sausages in the Pot-au-Feu (page 63), Alsatian Choucroute Garni (page 126), Black Bean Stew with Pig Parts (page 108), or Black Bean Soup (page 22). MAKES ABOUT 10 FEET OF SAUSAGE, OR APPROXIMATELY TWENTY 6-INCH SAUSAGES
4 pounds lean boneless pork shoulder, cut into ¾-inch cubes that will fit through your meat grinder
12 ounces pork fatback, cut into ¾-inch cubes that will fit through your meat grinder
1 pound slab bacon, rind removed, cut into ¾-inch cubes that will fit through your meat grinder
4 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground allspice
5 lengths of sausage casing (each 2½ feet long), prepared for stuffing (see page 135)
1. Combine the shoulder, fatback, bacon, garlic, shallots, pepper, and wine in a large bowl and toss thoroughly to mix. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 8 hours and up to 12.
2. Put the mixture through a meat grinder (see box, page 135) into a large bowl. Add the eggs, salt, sugar, nutmeg, and allspice and mix thoroughly, using your hands or a wooden spoon. To check the seasoning level, remove just enough of the mixture to make a small patty, then sauté the patty in a skillet in a small amount of vegetable oil until cooked through. Taste for seasoning, then adjust the seasoning in the rest of the mixture. Refrigerate the mixture, covered, until thoroughly chilled, about 2 hours.
3. Tie one end of each length of the prepared sausage casings in a tight knot as close to the end as possible. Fit the open end onto the sausage stuffer and place the stuffing mixture in the hopper. If you have no stuffer, fit a pastry bag (as large as you can handle) with a plain ½-inch tip. Fill it two thirds to three quarters full with the chilled sausage mixture. Carefully gather a length of sausage casing onto the tip of the pastry bag, starting from the untied end and gathering it all the way to the tied end.
4. To fill the casing, squeeze the pastry bag or operate your stuffer with one hand while using the other to guide the casing as it’s being stuffed, taking care that the filled casing doesn’t go shooting off the end of the bag or attachment. Fill the casing well and evenly, but don’t overstuff it; if the casings are too full, they’ll burst when the sausages are poached, and you’ll also need some room to tie the filled casings into individual sausages. Stop filling when you’re about 2 inches from the end. If you have enough room, tie a knot in the casing to close the end; if not, tie the end tightly closed with a 3-inch length of butcher’s twine. Repeat the stuffing and tying procedure with the remaining casings, refilling the sausage stuffer or pastry bag with the sausage mixture as needed.
5. After all the casings are stuffed, you can divide them into individual sausages (each length should make four sausages, about 6 inches long) by tying them at the appropriate intervals with two 3-inch pieces of butcher’s twine. Cut carefully between each set of ties to separate the sausages.
6. If you’ll be using the sausages right away, you’ll need to poach them (if you decide to freeze the sausages for later use, poach them after you thaw them). Use a wooden skewer or table fork to poke some holes in each sausage. Place the sausages in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring the water to a gentle simmer, reducing the heat to maintain the simmer. Poach the sausages, uncovered, until just cooked through and firm, about 5 minutes. This precooking will release some of the fat. Remove the sausages from the water with tongs and let them cool. They are now ready to use in a recipe of your choice.
making sausages
The key to well-made sausage is the texture of the filling, which is dependent on the equipment you use to grind it. The filling should be coarsely ground into small, yet distinct bits; too fine a grind simply turns the meat and other ingredients to mush. I use an old-fashioned hand-cranked meat grinder fitted with the medium blade, grinding two thirds of the mixture coarsely, then switching blades to finely grind the last third. Slightly less good results can be obtained using an electric mixer such as a KitchenAid with the special meat-grinder attachment. A food processor fitted with a metal chopping blade should be used only if you are absolutely desperate, since it’s virtually guaranteed to overgrind the filling. To follow this method, cut the meat, fatback, and bacon by hand into 1-inch pieces, then process about 2 cups at a time, pulsing at 1-second intervals.
preparing sausage casings
Natural sausage casings are simply sheep, hog, or cow intestines that have been cleaned and salted. (Synthetic casings are also available, but I don’t recommend them.) I generally use medium-size 1¼-inch-diameter hog casings; these are easy to work with since they’re tender but not too fragile. Casings are sold by the pound in long lengths and can be purchased from your local butcher.
With a sharp knife, cut the casing into the desired lengths (five 2½-foot lengths for Rustic Homemade Garlic Sausage, page 132) and place them in a bowl. (Wrap and freeze the rest for future use.) Cover with cold water and soak for 1 to 2 hours to remove the salt they were packed in. Drain the casings. Working with one length at a time, carefully slip one end of the casing over the end of the kitchen faucet. Slowly turn on the tap and let cold water run through for 1 minute to flush out any salt that’s still inside. Hold on to the casing so it doesn’t shoot off and slip down the drain! Remove from the faucet and repeat with the remaining casings. The casings don’t need to be dried before they are used.
Melicia brought the idea for these hefty sandwiches back from a trip to Montana, and they quickly became a staff favorite. Although this is what they’re called locally, the name is a bit misleading—the sandwiches are actually made with pork cutlets, not chops, so there are no bones involved. In the supermarket pork cutlets cut from the shoulder, tenderloin, leg, or loin are often labeled “scallops” or “medallions.”
Don’t be tempted to make these sandwiches fancier than they’re meant to be. For example, it’s essential to the correct flavor that you use ordinary store-bought hamburger buns and shredded iceberg lettuce—nothing else will do. This version is considered “loaded,” which means it’s served with all the garnishes. SERVES 4
8 pork cutlets (about 2 ounces each)
Milk
4 hamburger buns
4 tablespoons good-quality commercial mayonnaise, such as Hellmann’s
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
8 pickle chips
1½ cups shredded iceberg lettuce
4 thin slices fresh, ripe tomato
4 thin slices onion
¼ cup canola or other vegetable oil
All-purpose flour, seasoned with coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground black pepper, for coating
1. Place each cutlet between two sheets of waxed paper and pound with a meat pounder or rolling pin until very thin. Place the cutlets as they are pounded in a shallow dish with milk to cover while you assemble the remaining ingredients for the sandwiches.
2. Open the buns and toast them. Then lay them out on your work surface. Spread 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon mustard on the top half of each bun, then press 2 pickle slices gently into the spread on each top. Divide the lettuce among all the bun bottoms, topping each with a slice of tomato and onion.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. While it heats, spread about ¾ cup flour on a plate and dip half the pork pieces, one by one, in the flour to coat completely, shaking off any excess. Place the cutlets in the hot oil, arranging them so they don’t touch, and fry until crispy and golden, about 1 minute per side. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the cutlets to paper towels to drain while you coat and fry the remainder.
4. Place 2 fried pork cutlets on the bottom half of each bun, replace the tops, and serve immediately.
When a food craving strikes, there’s no point in ignoring it—it must be satisfied. For us, quite often that means Aïoli BLTs for supper.
The success of a BLT depends, first of all, on the quality of the bacon; you want to use the best smoked bacon available to you. Although the lettuce needn’t be fancy (romaine is nice, but iceberg is okay, too), the tomatoes must be ripe, and the bread firm textured but not too hard. Most important, the bread must be slathered with unctuous, garlicky Aïoli rather than mayonnaise from a jar. SERVES 6
1 pound good-quality, thickly sliced smoked bacon
12 slices good-quality white bread, toasted
½ cup Aïoli (page 363)
6 leaves romaine lettuce
6 large slices fresh, ripe tomato
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Cook the bacon as directed in the box on the following page.
3. Lay out 6 of the bread slices and spread each with some of the aïoli, using about ¼ cup. Assemble the sandwiches by layering on the lettuce, tomato, and bacon, then sprinkle a healthy grinding of pepper over it all.
4. Spread the remaining aïoli on the remaining bread slices, then place 1 slice on each sandwich, aïoli-side down. Press down lightly and cut crosswise into halves to serve.
A hot dog on a mustard-slathered bun is a great taste, but a hot dog cloaked in buttermilk-cornmeal batter and quickly fried until it’s golden and crispy is very great. Corn dogs on a stick are a traditional state- and country-fair food that dates back to the 1940s. My version eliminates the stick, and the batter contains just a pinch each of curry powder and cayenne to add interest. Kids and anyone at all young at heart will love these. Be sure to serve with plenty of mustard and ketchup. Corn dogs freeze well and can be reheated, without thawing, in a 350°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. MAKES 6 CORN DOGS
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of Madras-style curry powder, preferably Sun brand
1 large egg
1½ cups buttermilk
6 frankfurters
Canola or other vegetable oil, for frying
1. Combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cayenne, and curry powder in a medium-size bowl and whisk well to mix.
2. Combine the egg and buttermilk in a second bowl and whisk thoroughly to blend. Pour this mixture into the dry ingredients and mix well.
3. Pour oil into a deep, heavy skillet to a depth of 2 inches and heat over medium heat until it registers 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Pat the frankfurters dry with paper towels, then dip, 2 or 3 at a time, in the batter to coat thickly, letting any excess drip back into the bowl. Place the coated frankfurters carefully in the hot oil and fry until golden brown all over, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain while you coat and fry the remaining frankfurters. Serve immediately.
the secret of perfect bacon
When restaurants use bacon, they generally need to cook a lot of it. Instead of frying it in a pan on top of the stove, professional cooks lay the bacon strips in a sheet pan (you could also use a rimmed baking sheet, such as a jelly-roll pan) and bake in a preheated 350°F oven until crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain on paper towels before using. The bacon strips will curl up very little, if at all; they usually come out good and flat, which makes them easier to use.
