Thank You for Smoking

CHAPTER SIX

TOFU, VEGETABLES & LEAFY GREENS

This chapter harnesses the seductive possibilities of grilling with the influence of wood smoke to create outside-of-the-box meals that are easy enough to pull together on a weeknight. The thinking here is to infuse a starring vegetable (e.g., stunning farmers’ market carrots, lacinato kale, ripe tomatoes, wild mushrooms) with wood smoke and then partner them with supporting players that round out the meal. The smoke-infused lead carries so much flavor that you typically don’t need more than a few other ingredients (say a dressing, a tangle of noodles, a squeeze of citrus) to create an elevated version of a familiar dish. For instance, grill-smoked greens create a stellar slab pie, smoked carrots reinvent hummus, and smoked potatoes take a picnic staple to a new zip code.

GRILLED TOFU NOODLE SALAD

If you’re like me, Monday is a clean slate (the first day of the rest of your life…) that I like to kick off on a virtuous note. More often than not, that means a tangle of noodles paired with a heap of vegetables, fresh herbs, and spicy, spunky condiments. Enter this salad You can cube the tofu if you prefer, but I like larger rectangles for grilling, because they’re easier to wrangle and fun to eat. The tofu can be grilled a day or two in advance (something that’s easy to do with the lingering heat from another dinner). You’ll only need about half of the tofu for this salad, but I always grill extra so I have leftovers to make a grain or rice bowl or a salad more substantial in a flash.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Two 12-ounce (340 g) packages firm or extra-firm tofu, cut crosswise into 6 equal slices

1 teaspoon Spicy Curry Salt (this page)

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons tamari

1 to 2 tablespoons sambal oelek, as desired for heat

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

Kosher salt

8 ounces (225 g) fresh udon noodles, or 4 ounces (115 g) dried udon or soba noodles

4 cups (600 g) assorted vegetable pieces (such as blanched broccoli florets, carrot ribbons or matchsticks, thinly sliced napa or red cabbage, or sliced bell peppers)

3 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

⅓ cup (15 g) chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

⅓ cup (15 g) fresh Thai basil leaves, thinly sliced or torn

½ cup (55 g) Curry-Chile Peanuts (this page) or other nut

1 tablespoon smoked sesame seeds (see this page)

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, then add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

In a small bowl, combine the sesame and olive oils. Using a brush or your fingers, coat the tofu with oil and sprinkle with the Spicy Curry Salt. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the tofu slices over direct heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and cook for about 2 minutes, until nice char marks appear. Use a large spatula (and a firm, decisive thrust) to flip the tofu over, brush it with more of the oil mixture, close the lid, and cook for 2 minutes more, until lightly charred. Transfer the grilled tofu to a plate and set aside (reserve the oil mixture).

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the lime zest and juice, rice vinegar, tamari, 1 tablespoon of the sambal oelek, the honey, ginger, and garlic to make a dressing for the salad. Taste the dressing and add salt or additional sambal oelek as desired.

Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions. Drain the noodles in a colander, rinse with cold water, and set aside to drain again for a few minutes.

Place the noodles, assorted vegetables, green onions, cilantro, basil, Curry-Chile Peanuts, and dressing in a large bowl and toss until well combined. Divide the salad among bowls (or serve it family-style on a large platter) and top with slices of the grilled tofu and a sprinkling of smoked sesame seeds.

SWISS CHARD SLAB PIE

with Smoked Peppercorn Crust

When I cooked in the South of France, I rarely returned from the market without armfuls of Swiss chard. I learned to cook chard the French way, incorporating both the crisp, tasty stems (they have a celery-like texture) and the tender leaves. I’ve remained a devoted chard fan, so when I happened on this packed-with-greens recipe from Kristin Donnelly’s book Modern Potluck, it became an instant staple in my repertoire. In this version, the buttery crust is perfumed with the aroma of smoked black peppercorns, and the filling gets a Nicoise treatment with currants and pine nuts. I’ve toted this pie on camping trips, taken it to potlucks, and made it for weeknight dinners—happily anticipating the leftovers that are good hot or cold, anytime of day. Sprinkling the pie with flaky salt before baking gives it a delightful salty edge.

SERVES 8 TO 10

Dough

3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon smoked black peppercorns (see this page), coarsely ground

1¼ cups (285 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

⅔ cup (160 ml) ice water

Filling

3 pounds (1.4 kg) red Swiss chard (see Tip)

½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 large red onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Generous pinch of red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground ginger

½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine

3 tablespoons currants

3 tablespoons smoked pine nuts (see this page)

¾ cup (180 g) sour cream or full-fat Greek yogurt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash

Flaky salt, for garnish

To make the dough, place the flour, salt, and ground peppercorns in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is coarse, with some large pieces of butter remaining. Sprinkle the ice water on top and pulse just until the dough comes together. Transfer the dough to a work surface lightly dusted with flour, divide the dough in half, and pat each half into a 6-inch (15 cm) square. Wrap the squares in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about an hour.

Meanwhile, to make the filling, carefully wash the chard leaves and stems to remove any traces of grit, and then dry thoroughly. Use a knife to separate the chard stems from the leaves. Finely chop the stems and coarsely chop (or tear) the leaves. In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is just softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the coriander, ginger, and chard stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 6 minutes. Stir in the wine and currants and continue to cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Add the chard leaves in large handfuls, letting them wilt before adding more, and then cook until the greens are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chard mixture to a colander to drain and cool completely. When the mixture is cool, place it in a large mixing bowl and add the pine nuts and sour cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then use a rubber spatula to gently combine.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out one piece of dough to a 12 by 16-inch (30 by 40 cm) rectangle. Use a bench scraper and a rolling pin to transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet. Spread the chard filling over the dough evenly, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border around the edges. Roll out the remaining dough to the same size and drape it over the filling. Fold the rim over itself and pinch the edges to seal. Cut a few slits in the top of the pie with a sharp knife, brush the top and edges with the egg wash, and sprinkle with flaky salt.

Bake the pie for 50 to 55 minutes, until the crust is golden and cooked through. Let the pie cool for at least 15 minutes before cutting, and then serve it warm or at room temperature. Wrap any leftovers in foil and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

SMOKED ONION & CHEDDAR TART

Sweet, smoky onions combined with a kick of red chile, rich English Cheddar, and a hearty cornmeal crust create a rustic, savory one-crust pie that you can serve as an appetizer, for dinner (with a frisée salad), or on the brunch table (it’s delicious with Champagne). To make the assembly easier, make the crust and smoke the onions up to two days in advance. When those elements are in place, the tart comes together quickly.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Cornmeal Crust

2½ cups (315 g) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

¾ cup (95 g) finely ground yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons sugar

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

1 cup (225 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

⅓ cup (80 g) Mexican crema or sour cream

¼ cup (60 ml) ice water, plus more as needed

Smoked Onions

3 large sweet yellow onions (about 2½ pounds/1.1 kg), thinly sliced

2 sprigs rosemary or thyme

2 or 3 fresh bay leaves

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon crumbled smoked rosemary (see this page), or chopped fresh rosemary

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

Freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup (80 ml) dry white wine

2 eggs

8 ounces (225 g) English Cheddar cheese, grated

To make the cornmeal crust, place the flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, and rosemary in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is coarse and pebbly. Add the crema and ice water and pulse until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and lightly knead it into a ball (the dough should be soft and pliable but not sticky). Divide the dough in half, wrap each piece in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days. (You only use one half of the dough for this tart, so double-wrap the second half in plastic and freeze for up to 2 months.)

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

To smoke the onions, place the onions, herbs, and bay leaves in a disposable aluminum pan (large enough to hold the onions and about 1½ inches/4 cm deep). Drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the onions over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 20 to 25 minutes, until the onions are fragrant and have darkened a shade or two (if some edges have crisped and browned, that’s good). Remove the onions from the heat, discard the herb sprigs and bay leaves, and set aside to cool. At this point, you can prepare the tart or refrigerate the onions in a sealed container for up to 2 days.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat on the stovetop. Add the smoked onion mixture, the rosemary, red pepper flakes, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the wine and continue to cook, stirring every now and then, until the onions are deeply golden and have a soft, melty consistency, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and season generously with pepper and more salt, as desired. Transfer the onions to a mixing bowl to cool (or place the bowl in the refrigerator or freezer for a few minutes to speed up the process).

In a small bowl, use a fork to lightly beat the eggs. Stir the eggs into the cooled onion mixture.

To assemble the tart, lightly flour a work surface and roll out one dough half into a ¼-inch (6 mm)-thick rustic round or rectangle (it doesn’t need to be perfectly shaped). Use a bench scraper and rolling pin to help lift the dough and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet.

Using a rubber spatula, spread the onion mixture over the dough, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border around the edges. Top the onions with the cheese. Fold the crust up and over the onion filling, crimping the dough as you go to seal any cracks. Bake until the crust is golden brown and the filling has set, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer the tart to a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes, or until completely cool. Serve the tart warm or at room temperature, sliced into wedges or squares. Wrap leftovers in aluminum foil and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

SMOKY RANCH DIP

with Charred Kale

One of my favorite pastimes is teaching gardening classes at my children’s school. Every now and then, I secretly enlist the kiddos to be taste testers. I considered it a major victory that a class of third graders enthusiastically scarfed up this luscious dip (with baby carrots and pita chips), even after I told them it was made with lacinato kale from their garden. Aside from being a great way to get kids their greens, this dip is delicious with crudités (such as wedges of radicchio, watermelon radishes, celery, and carrots), hard-cooked eggs, and grilled meat kebabs. The kale I buy at my local market is very clean, so I don’t wash it because moisture inhibits the process (if you must wash it, dry the leaves carefully before grilling). The kale won’t char evenly on the grill, and that’s fine—you want a mix of doneness that ranges from blackened and crackly bits to deep green and tender. I use chives here, but feel free to use other “ranch-style” herbs like dill, tarragon, or parsley.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (660 G)

1 bunch lacinato kale (about 10 ounces/280 g)

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

1 cup (240 g) full-fat Greek yogurt

1 cup (240 g) mayonnaise

¼ cup (60 ml) buttermilk, plus more as needed

¼ cup (10 g) finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon Creole mustard or other spicy whole-grain mustard

1½ teaspoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon hot sauce (such as Cholula), plus more as needed

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

Working in batches, place the kale leaves perpendicular to the grates so they won’t fall through and cook over direct heat until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Transfer the kale to a cutting board to cool slightly. Use a knife to trim the thick ribs from each leaf (discard ribs), then coarsely chop the leaves.

Place the kale and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process into a coarse puree. Add the yogurt, mayonnaise, buttermilk, chives, mustard, fish sauce, Worcestershire, vinegar, hot sauce, garlic powder, onion powder, and pepper and process until the ingredients are combined and mostly smooth (the kale should still have a bit of texture to it). Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt, pepper, or hot sauce as desired. For a thinner consistency, add more buttermilk as needed. Serve immediately or refrigerate in a sealed container for up to 3 days.

SMOKED CARROT HUMMUS

After my friend Amy made a version of this recipe—a riff on hummus that relies more on carrots than chickpeas—I couldn’t quit dreaming about it. When fresh, locally grown carrots are available (like the ones I get from Johnson’s Backyard Garden, one of Austin’s urban farms), this creamy puree is a slather of springtime. Deepened with a whiff of wood fire, this version is delicious as a base for an open-faced sandwich on multigrain or rye toast (topped with slices of egg and sprouts), as a snack with seedy crackers or pita chips, or scooped up with crispy vegetables like fennel, celery, lettuce wedges, and cauliflower.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (660 GRAMS)

9 ounces (255 g) carrots (about 5 carrots), peeled and halved

One 15-ounce (430 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

¾ cup (175 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3½ tablespoons tahini

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus more juice as desired

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika

Several dashes of hot sauce (such as Cholula)

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the carrots, turn the heat to medium-high, and cook until just tender, about 6 minutes (depending on the size of your carrots, when in doubt use a paring knife to gauge doneness). Drain the carrots in a colander and set aside to cool briefly.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the carrots over direct heat and cook (flipping and rotating around the heat as necessary for even cooking) until they’re nicely charred on both sides, 5 to 6 minutes total. Remove the carrots from the heat and set aside to cool briefly.

Place the carrots, chickpeas, olive oil, tahini, lemon zest and juice, cumin, paprika, and hot sauce in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth and creamy, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the hummus to a bowl and serve immediately. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

SMOKED BEET BORSCHT

with Rye Croutons

Once you fall, truly and deeply, for grilling, it’s really hard to walk away from a beautiful fire that’s capable of cooking something. That’s why my favorite way to “smoke” beets is to coal-roast them in a bed of glowing embers. The method is a smart way to make the most of the heat (and your efforts) after you’ve grilled something else. Dense vegetables like beets, winter squash, and onions don’t need a lot of attention, just turn them every 15 minutes so they cook through evenly. (I set the timer on my phone to remind myself.) Once the beets are smoked, you can refrigerate them in a foil packet (complete with their ashy coating), or use your hands to peel the blackened skin from the beets before you store them in the refrigerator for up to five days. The alluring undercurrent of smoke that you’ve created and the beet’s earthy sweetness create a stunning borscht brimming with flavor. You don’t have to use all the garnishes here, but the combination of crunchy rye croutons, a swirl of dill cream, celery leaves, and a drizzle of spicy Harissa Oil (you can also use Aleppo pepper moistened with oil) make for a beautiful presentation.

SERVES 6 TO 8

1 pound (450 g) beets

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses or light brown sugar

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons lightly chopped fresh oregano

Freshly ground black pepper

6 cups (1.4 L) water

Rye Croutons

2 (1-inch/2.5 cm)-thick slabs day-old rye bread, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes

½ cup (120 g) sour cream

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, plus more as desired

Harissa Oil (this page), for garnish

Celery leaves, for garnish

To coal-roast the beets, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log).

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, nestle the beets into the embers, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke, turning every 15 minutes or so, until they’re just tender when pierced with a knife, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove the beets from the heat and allow them to cool (at which point, you can wrap them aluminum foil and refrigerate them for up to 5 days). Using your hands, peel the blackened skin from the beets; use a knife or paper towel to remove any blackened bits but do not rinse. Dice the beets and set aside.

Heat the oil and butter in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat on the stovetop. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, followed by the pomegranate molasses, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions have softened, about 8 minutes (add a splash of water, if needed, to prevent them from sticking and browning). Add the carrots, celery, garlic, oregano, and several grinds of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is fragrant and coated with oil, about 5 minutes more. Add the water and the beets, bring the mixture to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until all of the vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.

While the soup simmers, make the rye croutons. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the bread cubes on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle them with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and lightly season with salt. Bake the croutons for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned and crisp. Remove from the oven and set aside.

To make the dill cream, stir together the sour cream and dill in a small bowl, and cover and refrigerate until needed.

When the vegetables are tender, remove the pot from the heat and let the borscht cool for a few minutes. Transfer the soup to a blender (in batches if necessary) or use an immersion blender to puree until the mixture is very smooth. Stir in the vinegar, taste, and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt, pepper, or vinegar, as desired.

Serve the soup immediately, or refrigerate it in a sealed container up to 2 days. Serve warm or cold garnished with the rye croutons, dill cream, Harissa Oil, and celery leaves.

SMOKED TOMATO SOUP

A silky tomato soup is high on my list of restorative comfort foods (especially when served with a gooey grilled cheese sandwich). A combination of smoked plum and canned tomatoes ensures this version is both bright and deeply sweet. When you want a richer soup, puree the final mix with a nip of brandy or Cognac and a splash of heavy cream. Replace the chicken stock with water for a vegetarian variation.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Smoked Tomatoes

4 pounds (1.8 kg) plum tomatoes

2 sprigs rosemary

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 leek, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

Kosher salt

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 or 3 fresh bay leaves (to taste), torn

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Pinch of red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

¼ cup (60 ml) dry white wine

6 cups (1.4 L) Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) or regular chicken stock

One 28-ounce (794 g) can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes

1 dried chile (such as ancho or pasilla)

Freshly ground black pepper

Slices of baguette or another crusty bread, for serving

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

To smoke the tomatoes, place the plum tomatoes and rosemary in a disposable aluminum pan. Drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the tomatoes over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 30 to 40 minutes, until the tomatoes are lightly blistered and begin to release their juices. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the leek, onion, carrot, celery, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any vegetables that have stuck to the bottom of the pot. Add the chicken stock and canned tomatoes, breaking the tomatoes apart. Stir in the dried chile. Bring the soup to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Add the smoked tomatoes and rosemary sprigs to the pot (include any juices that have accumulated in the pan) and simmer, partially covered, for 30 to 40 minutes, until the soup has thickened slightly. Remove the soup from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes. Discard the rosemary sprigs, chile, and bay leaves, then transfer the soup to a blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree until very smooth. Return the soup to the pot, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with slices of bread.

WILD MUSHROOM RAMEN

Traditional ramen is made from a broth that’s lovingly tended for hours on end. Tare is the seasoning, or flavor bomb, that transforms the basic broth into, say, a miso or tonkotsu ramen, and it can be varied in infinite ways. In this recipe, tare infuses a mushroom broth enriched with nut milk. Wood-fired wild mushrooms, pungent aromatics like gochujang, a custardy soft-boiled egg, and springy noodles create a vegetarian riff that will satisfy any ramen craving.

SERVES 4 GENEROUSLY

1 cup (95 g) dried mushrooms (preferably shiitake)

4 cups (1.4 L) hot water

2 pounds (900 g) mixed fresh wild mushrooms, such as king trumpet, shiitake, porcini, and maitake

Vegetable oil, for drizzling

One 2-inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated

1 bunch garlic chives, trimmed and sliced into 1-inch lengths

4 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

¼ cup (60 ml) mushroom shoyu or soy sauce, or regular soy sauce, plus more as needed

1 cup (240 g) white miso

1 tablespoon fermented Korean red chile paste (gochujang), plus more as desired for heat

2 cups (475 ml) unsweetened cashew or almond milk

4 eggs, at room temperature

1 pound (450 g) fresh or dried ramen noodles, or other noodles of your choice

Shichimi togarashi, for garnish

Sambal oelek, for garnish

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again and place a grill basket over direct heat.

While the grill heats, combine the dried mushrooms and hot water in a small bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, toss the wild mushrooms with enough olive oil to coat. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the wild mushrooms in the heated grill basket and cook until charred and crisp on both sides, 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl.

Remove the rehydrated mushrooms from the water and thinly slice, reserving all of the water. In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, half of the garlic chives, and green onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rehydrated mushrooms, shoyu, miso, the reserved mushroom water, and the gochujang, turn the heat to medium-low, and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the flavors have melded. Stir in the nut milk and cook until heated through.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the eggs, turn the heat to low, and gently simmer for 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the eggs and run them under cold water for about 30 seconds to stop the cooking process. When the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel them and set aside.

Using the same pot, return the water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package instructions. Drain the noodles and briefly rinse.

Divide the noodles among four bowls. Halve the eggs, add a ladle or two of the broth to each bowl, and top with equal portions of the grilled mushrooms, a halved egg sprinkled with togarashi, and the remaining garlic chives. Serve with additional shoyu, shichimi togarashi, or sambal oelek as desired.

CAVATAPPI

with No-Cook Smoked Tomato Sauce

To preserve the unadulterated perfection of ripe, sun-warmed tomatoes, this sauce relies on a smoking gun, which provides flavor-enhancing smoke without heat. It’s the perfect summer meal that allows you to raid the garden and pull together dinner in the time it takes a pot of water to boil. For the best flavor, make this sauce with tomatoes that have never felt the chill of a refrigerator.

SERVES 4 TO 6

3 pounds (1.4 kg) ripe, juicy tomatoes (preferably a variety of cherry, heirloom, and plum), cored and chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons capers

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

⅓ cup (80 ml) best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound (450 g) cavatappi, fusilli, or penne

½ to 1 cup (50 to 100 g) freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan

Combine the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, capers, and red pepper flakes in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil, generously season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Allow the mixture to stand at room temperature while you cook the pasta (or for up to several hours).

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, to smoke the tomatoes, add a pinch of wood chips to the burn chamber of a smoking gun, place the hose in the bowl with the end above the tomatoes, and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ignite the wood chips and smoke for a few seconds, until the bowl is filled with a dense smoke. Remove the hose and reseal the plastic wrap. Let the smoke infuse for 3 minutes, then remove the plastic wrap. Taste, and if you want smokier results, repeat the process, stirring in between smoking to distribute the flavor.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions to al dente (tender but still firm). Drain the pasta in a colander (do not rinse) and pour it into the mixing bowl, tossing all the ingredients together. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper as desired. Serve the pasta at room temperature in bowls and sprinkle with the grated cheese to your liking. Refrigerate any leftovers in a sealed container for up to 2 days.

SMOKED POTATO SALAD

with Creole Mustard Dressing

Warning: With an undercurrent of smoke and a zippy dressing, this potato salad is likely to steal the show at your next barbecue. With their dense, moist texture, potatoes (particularly dense, waxy varieties like Yukon) lend themselves beautifully to the smoking process. A creamy dressing made with mayonnaise (I love Duke’s mayonnaise because it has a luscious buttercream texture and no added sugar), plenty of red wine vinegar, and Creole mustard adds a “hey there” brightness that balances the main ingredient. Because this salad is brimming with personality, you can serve it alongside something relatively simple, like grilled pork chops or steak. However, if you love Cajun-inspired heat, this salad is right at home at a shrimp or crab boil.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 pounds (900 g) Yukon gold or red potatoes (preferably organic), scrubbed but not peeled

¼ cup (10 g) finely chopped green onions, tender white and green parts

¼ cup (10 g) lightly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

¼ cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup (60 g) mayonnaise (preferably Duke’s), plus more as desired

3 tablespoons Creole mustard or other spicy whole-grain mustard

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Hot sauce (such as Crystal), for finishing

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Carefully add the potatoes, turn the heat to medium, and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

While the potatoes cook, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the potatoes directly on the grates over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke until they’re puffed and golden brown, about 35 to 45 minutes.

Remove the potatoes from the grill, allow them to cool enough to handle, and then cut them into 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks. Combine the green onions, parsley, vinegar, oil, mayonnaise, and mustard in a large bowl. Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste and whisk to combine. Fold in the potatoes with a rubber spatula, mixing gently so they hold their shape. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt, pepper, or hot sauce as desired. Serve immediately, or store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. (For the best flavor, remove the salad from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.)

COAL-SMOKED EGGPLANT CURRY

I was fascinated to learn about an ancient Indian method of smoking food (and one that’s still favored by street market vendors in Delhi) that involves placing a small dish of smoldering charcoal in the center of a curry, pouring a little oil over the embers, and then covering the dish for a minute or so to allow the smoky flavors to permeate. This modern-day translation follows the same lead by cooking the curry in the sauna of a smoke-infused grill. Serve the tender vegetables and their fragrant sauce with yogurt, fresh cucumbers, and steamed basmati rice or naan bread.

SERVES 4 TO 6

¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil

2 white onions, sliced

Kosher salt

5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 or 2 Thai bird’s-eye chiles, as desired for heat

3 eggplants (2 pounds/900 g), sliced into 3 by 1-inch (7.5 by 2.5 cm) batons

6 tablespoons (90 ml) water

4 large ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges

1¼ teaspoons pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico or ancho)

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 cardamom pods, lightly crushed

Two 15-ounce (430 g) cans chickpeas, drained

Lemon wedges, for serving

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. Place a large cast-iron skillet or 15-inch (38 cm) paella pan over direct heat.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, pour the oil into the skillet. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the onions and a pinch of salt and saute, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and chiles and saute for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant. Add the eggplants and water and stir to combine. Move the skillet to indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for about 12 minutes, stirring only once or twice, until the eggplant has collapsed. Add the tomatoes, chile powder, coriander, cumin, cardamom pods, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, uncovered, until the tomatoes become jammy, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the cardamom pods.

Stir in the chickpeas, close the grill, and allow the curry to smoke for 2 to 3 minutes, until deeply fragrant. Remove the curry from the grill, taste, and adjust the salt and/or chile powder as desired. Serve immediately with lemon wedges. Store any leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.