Malaysia

%60 / Pop 29.7 million

Why Go?

The catchy slogan 'Malaysia, Truly Asia' continues to ring true. The multicultural peninsula flaunts Malay, Chinese and Indian influences, beautiful beaches and islands. The landscapes only improve across the South China Sea in Malaysian Borneo with its rainforests that are home to orangutans, granite peaks and remote tribes. Human habitats range from the soaring skyscrapers and stupendous shopping malls of Kuala Lumpur (KL) to the jungle-surrounded longhouse villages of Sarawak. The supreme expression of the national diversity is its amazing range of delicious culinary offerings. Start with Chinese-Malay ‘Nonya’ fare, then move on to Indian curries, Chinese buffets, Malay food stalls and even impressive Western food. The icing on the cake is that Malaysia is one of the safest, most stable and manageable countries in Southeast Asia.

When to Go

ADec–Feb High season: school holidays and Chinese New Year. Prices rise; bookings essential.

ANov–Mar Monsoon season sees many east-coast peninsular islands shut; Cherating fills with surfers.

AJun–Aug Ramadan food bazaars open at night. End of Ramandan (Hari Raya) is also a time for feasting.

Best for Regional Specialities

ALaksa asam, Penang

ASatay celup, Melaka

ASarawak laksa, Kuching

ATea, Cameron Highlands

ADim Sum, Ipoh

Best Beaches

APulau Perhentian

APulau Langkawi

APulau Tioman

APulau Kapas

ABako National Park

Don't Miss

You'll find excellent food markets and hawkers all around the country but the west coast, and in particular Kuala Lumpur and Penang, has a thriving street-food scene that offers up some of the best eats in Southeast Asia. Hit up Jln Alor or the Imbi Market in KL or try one of the hawker centres in Penang. Every place has a speciality but follow your nose, appetite and instincts to choose your favourite noodles, rice dishes, salads, grilled meats and icy desserts. Go for busy stalls, where the wok is kept hot, and you'll avoid tummy troubles too.

ITINERARIES

ONE WEEK

Spend a day in Kuala Lumpur then fly to Penang to gorge on endless street food. Next cool off in the Cameron Highlands by exploring mossy forests and tea plantations. Hop over to the Perhentian Islands for snorkelling, diving and beachside revelry.

TWO WEEKS

Follow the one-week itinerary backwards then catch a flight to Kota Kinabalu and spend the next week trekking the wild jungles of Borneo, perhaps ascending Mt Kinabalu, one of the highest mountains in Southeast Asia.

Essential Food & Drink

ABreakfast Nasi lemak (coconut rice served with a variety of accompaniments), roti canai (Indian flat bread), won ton mee (egg noodles and wontons), dim sum or rice congee (savoury rice porridge).

ABarbecue Fish, lobster, prawns, squid, cockles and stingray. Point to it then watch it get slathered in sambal and grilled in a banana leaf.

ANoodles Fried or in soup. The best include char kway teow (fried noodles with egg, soy sauce, chilli and a variety of additions), laksa, curry mee (curry noodles), Hokkien mee (fried noodles with chicken, pork and other additions) and won ton mee.

ARice Nasi campur is a lunch favourite of rice and a buffet of toppings.

ADessert Malaysians drink their sweets via sugared fruit juices, sweetened condensed milk in hot beverages and scary looking icy concoctions like cendol and ais kacang (also known as ABC; shaved ice covered in coconut cream, jellies, beans and other crazy stuff).

At a Glance

ACurrency Malaysian ringitt (RM)

ALanguage Bahasa Malaysia (official), Chinese (Hakka and Hokkien), Tamil, English

AMoney ATMs in large towns

AVisas Most nationalities get a 30- to 90-day visa on arrival

AMobile phones SIMs start at RM5, calls are 15 sen per minute, data 4G plans are RM10 per week

Fast Facts

AArea 329,874 sq km

ACapital Kuala Lumpur

AEmergency 999

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	RM3.07
Euro	€1	RM4.68
Indonesia	10,000Rp	RM3.16
Singapore	S$1	RM3.06
Thailand	10B	RM1.21
UK	UK£1	RM6.63
US	US$1	RM4.30

Daily Costs

ADorm bed RM15–50

AMeal at a hawker stall RM5–7

ABeer RM8

ASnorkel gear hire RM15

Entering the Country

Kuala Lumpur is the main flight hub on the peninsula; Kota Kinabalu receives most Sabah flights and Kuching Sarawak flights.

Malaysia Highlights

1 Exploring George Town’s heritage district and grazing on street food along the way on Penang.

2 Swimming, lying on the beach, snorkelling, eating and snoozing on Pulau Perhentian.

3 Hiking past pitcher plants and moonscapes for sunrise atop the granite spire of Mt Kinabalu.

4 Smiling in your scuba mask as you pass turtles, sharks and technicolour coral in the Semporna Archipelago.

5 Admiring the view of Kuala Lumpur from the KL Tower or the rooftop Heli Lounge Bar.

6 Hopping between idyllic beach villages, diving reefs and wrecks, and spotting monkeys on Pulau Tioman.

7 Admiring the verdant, rolling tea plantations then enjoying a cuppa in the Cameron Highlands.

8 Climbing the crags of the Pinnacles at Gunung Mulu National Park.

9 Sipping wild teas at a wobbly longhouse in Bario.

Kuala Lumpur

%03 / Pop 1.5 million

In the 150 years since tin miners hacked a base out of the jungle, Kuala Lumpur (KL) has evolved into an affluent 21st-century metropolis remarkable for its cultural diversity. Ethnic Malays, Chinese prospectors, Indian immigrants and British colonials all helped shape the city, and each group has left its indelible physical mark as well as a fascinating assortment of cultural traditions. Historic temples and mosques rub shoulders with space-age towers and shopping malls; traders’ stalls are piled high with pungent durians and counterfeit handbags; monorail cars zip by lush jungle foliage; and locals sip cappuccinos in wi-fi-enabled cafes or feast on delicious streetside hawker food.

KL’s city centre is surprisingly compact – from Chinatown to Masjid India takes little more than 10 minutes on foot; it’s often quicker to walk than take public transport or grab a cab. Merdeka Sq is the focus of colonial-era KL. Southeast across the river, Chinatown is popular with travellers for its budget accommodation and lively night market. East of Pudu Sentral bus station are the Golden Triangle and Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) areas around the Petronas Towers - this is where contemporary KL thrives.

1Sights

Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas

oKL Forest Eco ParkNATURE RESERVE

(Taman Eko Rimba KL; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.forestry.gov.my; h7am-7pm; gKL Tower)

Don't miss traversing the lofty, newly constructed canopy walkway set in this thick lowland dipterocarp forest covering 9.37 hectares in the heart of the city. The oldest protected jungle in Malaysia (gazetted in 1906), the park is commonly known as Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill), and is also threaded through with short trails up from either Jln Ampang or Jln Raja Chulan. Pick up a basic map to the trails from the Forest Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2026 4741; www.forestry.gov.my; Jln Raja Chulan; h9am-5pm; gKL Tower).

Menara Kuala LumpurTOWER

(KL Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2020 5444; www.menarakl.com.my; 2 Jln Punchak; observation deck adult/child RM52/31, open deck adults only RM105; hobservation deck 9am-10pm, last tickets 9.30pm; gKL Tower)

Although the Petronas Towers are taller, the 421m Menara KL, rising from the crest of Bukit Nanas, offers the best city views. Surrounded by a pocket of primary rainforest, this lofty spire is the world's fourth-highest telecommunications tower. The bulb at the top (its shape inspired by a Malaysian spinning toy) contains a revolving restaurant, an interior observation deck at 276m and, most thrilling of all, an open deck at 300m, access to which is weather dependent.

Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Masjid India

1Top Sights

1Islamic Arts MuseumA6

1Sights

6Sin Sze Si Ya TempleD4

7Sri Mahamariamman TempleD5

8St Mary's Anglican CathedralC2

9Sultan Abdul Samad BuildingC3

4Sleeping

10BackHomeE3

11Lantern HotelE5

12Reggae MansionD3

5Eating

LOKLE3

13Madras Lane HawkersE5

14Merchant's LaneE6

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Aku Cafe & GalleryE6

16Reggae BarD5

7Shopping

17Central Market ShopsD4

18Museum of Ethnic ArtsD4

Petaling Street MarketE5

8Information

Visit KLC3

Sri Mahamariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 163 Jln Tun HS Lee; h6am-8.30pm, till 9.30pm Fri; mPasar Seni)F

This lively Hindu temple – the oldest in Malaysia and rumoured to be the richest – was founded in 1873. Mariamman is the South Indian mother goddess, also known as Parvati. Her shrine is at the back of the complex. On the left sits a shrine to the elephant-headed Ganesh, and on the right one to Lord Murugan. During the Thaipusam festival, Lord Murugan is transported to Batu Caves from the temple on a silver chariot.

Merdeka SquareSQUARE

(Dataran Merdeka; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mMasjid Jamek)

The huge open square where Malaysian independence was declared in 1957 is ringed by heritage buildings, such as the magnificent Sultan Abdul Samad Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Raja; mMasjid Jamek) and St Mary's Anglican Cathederal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2692 8672; www.stmaryscathedral.org.my; Jln Raja; mMasjid Jamek), both designed by AC Norman. There's also an enormous flagpole and fluttering Malaysian flag. In the British era, the square was used as a cricket pitch and called the Padang ('field').

Masjid JamekMOSQUE

(Friday Mosque; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jln Tun Perak; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm, closed Fri; mMasjid Jamek)F

Gracefully designed in Mughal style by British architect AB Hubback, this onion-domed mosque is situated at the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers. At the time of research the surroundings were being relandscaped as part of the River of Life project and the original steps down to the river reinstated. You can visit the inside, outside of prayer times, but dress conservatively and remember to remove your shoes before entering the prayer halls.

Sin Sze Si Ya TempleCHINESE TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-5pm; mPasar Seni)F

Kuala Lumpur's oldest Chinese temple was built on the instructions of Kapitan Yap Ah Loy and is dedicated to Sin Sze Ya and Si Sze Ya, two Chinese immigrants instrumental in Yap's ascension to Kapitan status. Several beautiful objects decorate the temple, including two hanging carved panels, but the best feature is the almost frontier-like atmosphere. This is still an important temple for the community, much as it was in 1864 when 10,000 people turned out for opening day.

KLCC & Around

oPetronas TowersTOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2331 8080; www.petronastwintowers.com.my; Jln Ampang; adult/child RM84.80/31.80; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun, closed 1-2.30pm Fri; c; mKLCC)

Resembling twin silver rockets plucked from an episode of Flash Gordon, the Petronas Towers are the perfect allegory for the meteoric rise of the city from tin-miners' hovel to 21st-century metropolis. Half of the 1440 tickets for 45-minute guided tours – which take in the Skybridge connection on the 41st floor and the observation deck on the 86th floor at 370m – are sold in advance online. Otherwise turn up early to be sure of scoring a ticket to go up.

oILHAMGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ilhamgallery.com; 3rd & 5th fl, Ilham Tower, 8 Jln Binjai, 11am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mAmpang Park)F

KL's latest public art gallery provides an excellent reason to admire close up the slick 60-storey ILHAM Tower designed by Foster + Partners. With a mission to showcase modern and contemporary Malaysian art, ILHAM kicked off in style in August 2015 with a blockbuster show of works by Hoessein Enas (1924–1995). There's no permanent collection, with exhibitions changing every three to four months.

Golden Triangle & KLCC

1Top Sights

1ILHAMD1

2KL Forest Eco ParkA4

3Petronas TowersC2

1Sights

4KLCC ParkC2

5Menara Kuala LumpurA3

4Sleeping

6Classic InnB6

7Paloma InnA5

8Rainforest Bed & BreakfastB4

9Wolo Bukit BintangB5

5Eating

10Imbi MarketD5

11Lot 10 HutongC5

12Nasi Kandar PelitaC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

13Heli Lounge BarB4

14Taps Beer BarB4

15VCRA6

KLCC ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; KLCC, Jln Ampang; h7am-10pm; mKLCC)

The park is the best vantage point for eyeballing the Petronas Towers. In the early evening, it can seem like everyone in town has come down here to watch the glowing towers punching up into the night sky. Every night at 8pm, 9pm and 10pm the Lake Symphony fountains play in front of the Suria KLCC.

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park & Around

oIslamic Arts MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzium Kesenian Islam Malaysia; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2274 2020; www.iamm.org.my; Jln Lembah Perdana; adult/child RM14.85/7.40; h10am-6pm; dKuala Lumpur)

This outstanding museum is home to one of best collections of Islamic decorative arts in the world. Aside from the quality of the exhibits, which include fabulous textiles, carpets, jewellery and calligraphy-inscribed pottery, the building itself is a stunner, with beautifully decorated domes and glazed tile work. There's a good Middle Eastern restaurant and one of KL's best museum gift shops stocking beautiful products from around the Islamic world.

KL Bird ParkAVIARY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2272 1010; www.klbirdpark.com; Jln Cenderawasih; adult/child RM50/41; h9am-6pm; W; dKuala Lumpur)

This fabulous 21-hectare aviary houses some 3000 birds comprising 200 species of (mostly) Asian birds. The park is divided into four sections: in the first two, birds fly freely beneath an enormous canopy. Section three features the native hornbills (so-called because of their enormous beaks), while section four offers the less-edifying spectacle of caged species.

Perdana Botanical GardenPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2617 6404; www.klbotanicalgarden.gov.my; h7am-8pm; c; dKuala Lumpur)SF

KL's oldest public park (hailing back to the 1880s) showcases a wide variety of native and overseas plants with sections dedicated to ferns, rare trees, trees that have lent their names to places in Malaysia, medicinal herbs, aquatic plants and so on. The gardens are well laid out with boardwalks and gazebos, but there is almost no signage. If you want to know more, book one of the free guided walks on Sundays at 8am and 10am.

National MonumentMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Tugu Negara, Jln Parlimen; h7am-6pm; mMasjid Jamek, then taxi)F

This impressive monument commemorates the defeat of the communists in 1950 and provides fine views across the park and city. The giant militaristic bronze sculpture was created in 1966 by Felix de Weldon, the artist behind the Iwo Jima monument in Washington, DC, and is framed beautifully by an azure reflecting pool and graceful curved pavilion.

National MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzium Negara; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2282 6255; www.muziumnegara.gov.my; Jln Damansara; adult/child RM5/2; h9am-6pm; gHop-On-Hop-Off Bus Tour, dKL Sentral, then taxi)

Exhibit quality varies, but overall this museum offers a rich look at Malaysian history. The best exhibits are Early History, with artefacts from neolithic and Bronze Age cultures; and the Malay Kingdoms, which highlights the rise of Islamic kingdoms in the Malay Archipelago. Outside, look for a gorgeous traditional raised house; ancient burial poles from Sarawak; a regularly changing exhibition (extra charge); and two excellent small free side galleries, the Orang Asli Craft Museum and Malay World Ethnology Museum.

Masjid NegaraMOSQUE

(National Mosque; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.masjidnegara.gov.my/v2/; Jln Lembah Perdana; h9am-noon, 3-4pm & 5.30-6.30pm, closed Fri morning; dKuala Lumpur)F

The main place of worship for KL’s Malay Muslim population is this gigantic 1960s mosque, inspired by Mecca’s Grand Mosque. Able to accommodate 15,000 worshippers, its umbrella-like blue-tile roof has 18 points symbolising the 13 states of Malaysia and the five pillars of Islam. Rising above the mosque, a 74m-high minaret issues the call to prayer, which can be heard across Chinatown. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit outside prayer times; robes are available for those who are not dressed appropriately.

GETTING TO THE TUN ABDUL RAZAK HERITAGE PARK

The Tun Abdul Razaka Heritage Park, an area still best known by its colonial moniker of the Lake Gardens, can seem like an island of greenery cut off from the city by railway lines and highways. However, it is possible to walk here: take the pedestrian bridge across from the Central Market to Kompleks Dayabumi, then head south around the back of the post office to the underpass leading to the Masjid Negara. Another set of overhead pedestrian bridges leads into KL Station, from where you can also walk up to the gardens. Once in the park, you can use the hop-on, hop-off electric tram (adult/child RM2/1, 9am to 6pm) to get between the major attractions.

Kampung Baru & Northern KL

oKampung BaruAREA

The charm of this Malay area, gazetted by the British in the 1890s, lies in just wandering the streets, which you can also do with a guide on the city's free Kampung Baru Walking Tour ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my/visitklv2; h4.30-7pm Tue, Thu & Sun). Traditional Malay wooden houses stand amid leafy gardens and people go quietly about their daily lives as they have done for decades. Along the way enjoy tasty home-cooked Malay food at unpretentious roadside cafes and stalls.

National Visual Arts GalleryGALLERY

(Balai Seni Lukis Negara; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-4026 7000; www.artgallery.gov.my; 2 Jln Temerloh; h10am-6pm; DTitiwangsa)F

Occupying a pyramid-shaped block, the NVAG showcases modern and contemporary Malaysian art. It's always worth turning up to see a variety of interesting temporary shows of local and regional artists, as well as pieces from the gallery's permanent collection of 4000 pieces, including paintings by Zulkifli Moh'd Dahalan, Wong Hoy Cheong, Ahmad Fuad Osman and the renowned batik artist Chuah Thean Teng. On the ground floor, the National Portrait Gallery also hosts regularly changing exhibitions.

WORTH A TRIP

BATU CAVES

Hindu deities rule over the Batu Caves, a system of three caves 13km northwest of the capital. The main focus is Temple Cave (h8am-8.30pm; dBatu Caves), which contains a Hindu shrine reached by a straight flight of 272 steps, guarded by a 42.7m golden statue of Murugan, said to be the largest in the world. The caves are busy every day, but hundreds of thousands of pilgrims converge on the caves every year during Thaipusam (January/February) to engage in or watch the spectacularly masochistic feats of the devotees.

Take KTM Komuter Trains to Batu Caves (RM2.60, 30 minutes) every 15 to 30 minutes. A taxi costs RM20 to RM30.

4Sleeping

Vibrant Chinatown and the Golden Triangle are your best hunting ground for rock-bottom crash pads.

Chinatown & Little India

oBackHomeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 0788; www.backhome.com.my; 30 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm/d/tr incl breakfast from RM53/134/192; aiW; mMasjid Jamek)

This chic pit stop for flashpackers offers polished-concrete finishes, Zen simple decoration, fab rain showers and a blissful central courtyard sprouting spindly trees. It can be noisy on the street outside, but the hostel offers earplugs for light sleepers. Also check out its cool cafe, LOKL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://loklcoffee.com; 30 Jln Tun HS Lee; mains RM15-22; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; mMasjid Jamek).

oReggae MansionHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 6877; www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion; 49-59 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm/d from RM50/150; aiW; mMasjid Jamek)

Grooving to a beat that's superior to most backpacker places, including its own guesthouses in the heart of Chinatown, this is one cool operation. The decor is whitewashed faux colonial with contemporary touches including a flash cafe-bar, rooftop bar and mini cinema.

Lantern HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2020 1648; www.lanternhotel.com; 38 Jln Petaling; r incl breakfast from RM98; aW; mPasar Seni)

You can't get more central to Chinatown than this slickly designed new hotel. The simple, whitewashed rooms with lime or tangerine feature walls all have their own bathrooms – the cheapest ones with no windows (but spared some of the noise from the market outside). A huge plus is the cool terrace with a bird's-eye view of Petaling Street Market.

Golden Triangle

Classic InnHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2148 8648; www.classicinn.com.my; 36 & 52 Lg 1/77a; dm/s/d incl breakfast from RM40/98/128; aiW; DImbi)

Check-in is at the newer, more upmarket branch of Classic Inn at No 36 where there's spotless rooms all with private bathrooms and a pleasant verandah cafe. The original yellow-painted shophouse at No 52 continues to be a retro-charming choice with dorms and private rooms, a small grassy garden and welcoming staff.

Paloma InnHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 6677; www.hotelpalomainn.com.my; 12-14 Jln Sin Chew Kee; dm/s/d incl breakfast from RM42/95/128; aiW; DHang Tuah)

Set on a backstreet of painted pre-war shophouses, Paloma is a great hangout that's well run, quiet but also super central. VCR cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 2330; www.vcr.my; 2 Jln Galloway; h8.30am-10pm; W; DHang Tuah) is just around the corner for superb espresso, while the nightlife of Chankit Bukit Bintang is a 10-minute walk away. Rates are slightly higher Friday to Sunday.

Container HotelDESIGN HOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2116 4388; www.containerhotel.com; 1 Jln Delima; dm/s with shared bathroom/d incl breakfast RM39/110/139; aW; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

Stacked shipping containers turned into ensuite rooms (sadly, not too well maintained) are the basis of this inventive place. We preferred the singles in giant concrete cylinders. There's also a roof terrace and free bike rental. It's close by the excellent bakery cafe Levain and megaclub Zouk.

Rainforest Bed & BreakfastGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2145 3525; www.rainforestbnbhotel.com; 27 Jln Mesui; dm/d/tw incl breakfast RM37/115/130; aiW; DRaja Chulan)

The lush foliage sprouting around and tumbling off the tiered balconies of this high-quality guesthouse is eye-catching and apt for its name. Inside, bright-red walls and timber-lined rooms (some without windows) are visually distinctive, along with the collection of Chinese pottery figurines. The location for nightlife, cafes and restaurants couldn't be better.

SPLURGE

At Wolo Bukit Bintang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2719 1333; www.thewolo.com; cnr Jln Bukit Bintang & Jln Sultan Ismail; r incl breakfast from RM270; aW; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang), neon and mirror-clad elevators whisk you to dark corridors, the walls rippled with fabric, and on into rooms where the mattress sits on a blonde wood floor base, like a futon, and the shower and toilet are hidden behind faux padded leather doors. The vibe is rock star glam and a change from the midrange norm.

5Eating

Inexpensive and delicious street food is readily available but when it’s too hot outside, head to central KL’s air-con shopping malls for international and local food.

Chinatown & Masjid India

oMadras Lane HawkersHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Madras Lane; noodles RM5-6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun; mPasar Seni)

Enter beside the Guandi Temple to find this alley of hawker stalls. It’s best visited for breakfast or lunch, with standout operators including the one offering 10 types of yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with tofu and a fish and pork paste). The bah kuh teh (pork and medicinal herbs stew) and curry laksa stalls are also good.

oMasjid India Pasar MalamHAWKER$

(Night Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman; street food RM5-10; h3pm-midnight Sat; mMasjid Jamek)

From around 3pm until late every Saturday, stalls pack out the length of Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman, the alley between the Jln TAR and Masjid India. Amid the headscarf and T-shirt sellers are plenty of stalls serving excellent Malay, Indian and Chinese snacks and colourful soya- and fruit-based drinks.

Capital CaféMALAYSIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 213 Jln TAR; dishes RM4-6; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mBandaraya)

Since it opened in 1956, this truly Malaysian cafe has had Chinese, Malays and Indians all working together, cooking up excellent renditions of Malay classics such as mee goreng, rojak (salad doused in a peanut-sauce dressing) and satay (only available in the evenings).

oMerchant's LaneFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2022 1736; Level 1, 150 Jln Petaling; mains RM20-30; h10.30am-6pm Thu & Sun-Tue, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W; DMaharajalela)

Look for the narrow doorway at the end of the block for the stairs leading up to this high-ceilinged charmer of a cafe. The vibe is relaxed, the staff young, hip and friendly and the food a very tasty mash up of Eastern and Western dishes, such as Italian chow mein and their take on a Japanese savoury pancake okonomiyaki.

Golden Triangle & KLCC

oImbi MarketHAWKER$

(Pasar Baru Bukit Bintang; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kampung; dishes RM5-10; h6am-1pm Tue-Sun; u)

Breakfast is a cheerful affair in the courtyard of this walled traditional market. Time-tested stalls include Sisters Crispy Popiah for wraps; Teluk Intan Chee Cheung Fun for oyster-and-peanut congee and egg pudding and Ah Weng Koh Hainan Tea for coffee or tea.

The market is slated to move in 2017 as the area's developed into the Tun Razak Exchange financial district.

Nasi Kandar PelitaMAMAK$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pelita.com.my; 149 Jln Ampang; dishes RM3-9; h24hr; mKLCC)

There's round-the-clock eating at the Jln Ampang branch of this chain of excellent mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food courts. Among the scores of dishes available from the various stalls are magnificent roti canai (flat, flaky bread) and hariyali tikka (spiced chicken with mint, cooked in the tandoor).

Lot 10 HutongHAWKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Basement, lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; dishes RM9-18; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang)

Lot 10 Hutong was the first mall to encourage top hawkers to open branches in a basement food court. In its well-designed space it pulled in names such as Soong Kee, which has served beef noodles since 1945. Look also for Kong Tai's oyster omelettes, Hon Kee's Cantonese porridge, and Kim Lian Kee's Hokkien mee.

DON'T MISS

JALAN ALOR

The collection of roadside restaurants and stalls lining Jln Alor is the great common denominator of KL’s food scene, hauling in everyone from sequined society babes to penny-strapped backpackers. From around 5pm till late every evening, the street transforms into a continuous open-air dining space with hundreds of plastic tables and chairs and rival caterers shouting out to passers-by to drum up business. Most places serve alcohol and you can sample pretty much every Malay Chinese dish imaginable, from grilled fish and satay to kai-lan (Chinese greens) in oyster sauce and fried noodles with frogs’ legs.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oAku Cafe & GalleryCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2857 6887; www.oldchina.com.my/aku.html; 1st fl, 8 Jln Panggong; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; mPasir Seni)

This relaxed coffee haunt serves good hand-drip brews starting at RM10. There are also flavoured drinks such as mint and lemon iced coffee, cakes, and light kopitiam-style meals. Exhibitions change on a monthly basis and there are some nice local craft souvenirs for sale.

oReggae BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/reggaechinatown; 158 Jln Tun HS Lee; h11.30am-3am; mPasar Seni)

Travellers gather in droves at this pumping bar in the thick of Chinatown, which has outdoor seats if you’d like to catch the passing parade. There are beer promos, pool tables and pub grub served 'til late.

oZoukCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.zoukclub.com.my; 436 Jln Tun Razak; admission from RM50; h9pm-3am Tue-Sun; DBukit Bintang, then taxi)

If you're going to visit one club in KL, make it this one. Not only does Zouk's new location at the emerging TREC entertainment complex offer no fewer than around nine DJ spaces, bars and a cafe, if you bring your passport as a tourist you gain free entry to some of the enormous complex. Cover charges vary between venues.

Heli Lounge BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2110 5034; www.facebook.com/Heliloungebar; level 34, Menara KH, Jln Sultan Ishmail; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat; W; DRaja Chulan)

If the weather's behaving, this is easily the best place for sundowners in KL. Nothing besides your lychee martini and the cocktail waiter stands between you, the edge of the helipad and amazing 360-degree views. Steady your hands as you have to buy your first drink at the somewhat cheesy bar below and carry it up yourself. Weekend entry often requires your group to stump for a bottle.

Taps Beer BarMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tapsbeerbar.my; One Residency, 1 Jln Nagasari; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; W; DRaja Chulan)

Taps specialises in ale from around the world with some 80 different microbrews on rotation, 14 of them on tap. There's live music Thursday to Saturday at 9.30pm and an all-day happy hour on Sunday. Taps also serves pub grub (with a few Malaysian dishes) and a Sunday roast.

7Shopping

Central Market ShopsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.centralmarket.com.my; Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-10pm; mPasar Seni)

This 1930s art-deco building houses dozens of shops selling Malaysian arts and crafts including batik clothing and hangings, songket (fine cloth woven with silver and gold thread), wau bulan (moon kites), baskets, Royal Selangor pewter, as well as vintage items from daily life. Don't miss the fascinating private museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2301 1468; 2nd fl, The Annexe, 10 Jln Hang Kasturi; h11am-7pm; mPasar Seni) of ethnic art in the Annexe where most items are for sale.

Petaling Street MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Petaling; hnoon-11pm; mPasar Seni)

Malaysia’s relaxed attitude towards counterfeit goods is well illustrated at this heavily hyped night market bracketed by fake Chinese gateways. Traders start to fill Jln Petaling from midmorning until it is jam-packed with market stalls selling everything from fake Gucci handbags to bunches of lychees. Visit in the afternoon if you want to take pictures or see the market without the crowds.

8Information

Immigration Offices

Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6205 7400; 69 Jln Sri Hartamas 1, off Jln Duta; h7.30am-1.00pm & 2.00pm-5.30pm Mon-Fri; u)

Handles visa extensions; offices are opposite Publika mall.

Internet Access

Internet cafes are everywhere; the going rate per hour is RM3. Wi-fi is free at hundreds of restaurants, bars and more around the city.

Medical Services

Hospital Kuala LumpurMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2615 5555; www.hkl.gov.my; Jln Pahang; mTitiwangsa, DTitiwangsa)

City's main hospital, north of the centre.

Twin Towers Medical Centre KLCCMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2382 3500; http://ttmcklcc.com.my; level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; mKLCC)

Handily located in the mall attached to the Petronas Towers.

Money

You’ll seldom be far from a bank or ATM. Moneychangers offer better rates than banks for changing cash and (at times) travellers cheques; they are usually open later hours and on weekends and are found in shopping malls.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pos.com.my; Jln Raja Laut; h6am-11.30pm; mPasar Seni)

Across the river from the Central Market. Packaging is available for reasonable rates at the post-office store.

Tourist Information

Visit KLTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; KL City Gallery, Merdeka Sq; h9am-6.30pm; mMasjid Jamek)

Official city tourism office at the KL City Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2691 1382; www.klcitygallery.com; 27 Jln Raja, Merdeka Sq; admission RM5; h9am-6.30pm; W; mMasjid Jamek). In addition to tons of useful brochures and maps, it runs free walking tours of Merdeka Sq and Kampung Baru.

Malaysian Tourism CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9235 4800; www.matic.gov.my/en; 109 Jln Ampang; h8am-10pm; DBukit Nanas)

Information on KL and tourism across Malaysia. There's also a free traditional dance and music show staged at the theatre here (3pm to 3.45pm Monday to Saturday), plus a branch of the chocolate emporium Cocoa Boutique. The main office is housed in a handsome bungalow built in 1935 for rubber and tin tycoon Eu Tong Sen.

8Getting There & Away

Kuala Lumpur is Malaysia’s principal international arrival gateway and it forms the crossroads for domestic bus, train and taxi travel.

Air

Kuala Lumpur International AirportAIRPORT

(KLIA; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-8777 7000; www.klia.com.my; dKLIA)

Kuala Lumpur's main airport has two terminals and is about 55km south of the city.

SkyPark Subang TerminalAIRPORT

(Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-7842 2773; www.subangskypark.com; M17, Subang)

Firefly, Berjaya Air and some Air Asia and Malindo Air flights go from SkyPark Subang Terminal, around 23km west of the city centre.

Bus

KL’s main bus stations are Pudu Sentral ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Pudu; mPlaza Rakyat), just east of Chinatown, and Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-9051 2000; www.tbsbts.com.my; Bandar Tasik Selatan; mBandar Tasik Seletan, dBandar Tasik Seletan), connected to the Bandar Tasik Selatan rail hub, about 15 minutes south of KL Sentral and serving destinations south of KL and the northeastern states of Kelantan and Terengganu. For Jerantut (for access to Taman Negara) go to Pekeliling bus station next to Titiwangsa LRT and monorail stations.

BUSES FROM KL

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)
Alor Setar	43	5
Butterworth	35	4½
Cameron Highlands	35	4
Ipoh	28	2½
Johor Bahru	34.30	4
Kuantan	24.30	4
Melaka	10-12.50	2
Penang	30-40	5
Singapore	45-50	6

Taxi

Shared-taxi fares for chartering the whole taxi, seating four, from the depot on the 2nd floor of Pudu Sentral bus station include Melaka (RM200), Penang (RM550) and Johor Bahru (RM480). Toll charges are normally included.

Train

KL Sentral is the hub of the KTM (Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad; %1300 885862; www.ktmb.com.my; hinfo office 9am-9pm, ticket office 6.30am-9.30pm) railway system. There are daily departures for Butterworth, Johor Bahru and Thailand; fares are cheap, especially if you opt for a seat rather than a berth (for which there are extra charges), but journey times are slow.

KTM Komuter trains also run from KL Sentral, linking the city with the Klang Valley, Seremban and Ipoh.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA)

The fastest way to the city is on the comfortable KLIA Ekspres (www.kliaekspres.com; adult/child one way RM55/25), with departures every 15 to 20 minutes from 5am to 1am. From KL Sentral you can transfer to your final destination by monorail, LRT, KTM Komuter train or by taxi.

The Airport Coach (www.airportcoach.com.my; one way/return RM10/18) takes an hour to KL Sentral; for RM18 it will take you to any central KL hotel from KLIA, for RM25 it will also pick you up for the return journey. The bus stand is clearly signposted inside the terminal.

Taxis from KLIA operate on a fixed-fare coupon system. Purchase a coupon from a counter at the arrival hall and use it to pay the driver. Standard taxis cost RM75.

SkyPark Subang Airport

Taxis from the city centre to Subang take between 30 minutes and one hour depending on traffic and cost RM40 to RM50.

Trans MVS Express (%019-276 8315; http://klia2airporttransfer.com) runs buses on the hour from KL Sentral to Subang (RM10, one hour) between 9am and 9pm; and from Subang to KLIA 1 & 2 (RM10, one hour) roughly every two hours between 5am and 11pm.

Bus

Most buses in KL are provided by either Rapid KL (%03-7885 2585; www.rapidkl.com.my) or Metrobus (%03-5635 3070). The fare is RM2 to RM3; have the correct change ready when you board.

There’s an information booth (7am to 9pm) near Pasir Seni station in Chinatown, where you can also board the free Go KL City Bus (www.gokl.com.my) services to the Golden Triangle and KLCC.

Taxi

KL’s taxis are cheap, starting at RM3 for the first three minutes, with an additional 25 sen for each additional 36 seconds. From midnight to 6am there’s a surcharge of 50% on the metered fare.

Although required to use the meter by law, some taxi drivers will refuse to do this and try to overcharge you. It should cost no more than RM10 to go right across the central city area, even in moderate traffic.

Train

The user-friendly Light Rail Transit (LRT; %03-7885 2585; www.myrapid.com.my; ticket from RM1.30; hevery 6-10min, 6am-11.45pm, to 11.30pm Sun) system is composed of the Ampang/Sentul Timur, Sri Petaling/Sentul Timur and Kelana Jaya/Terminal Putra lines.

KL’s handy monorail (www.myrapid.com.my; RM1.20-4.10; h6am-midnight) runs between KL Sentral in the south to Titiwangsa in the north, linking up many of the city’s sightseeing areas.

KTM Komuter (www.ktmb.com.my; from RM1; h6.45am-11.45pm) links Kuala Lumpur with outlying suburbs and the historic railway station.

KL Sentral is the central transit station for all train travel in KL.

Peninsular Malaysia – West Coast

Malaysia’s multiculturalism is best viewed along the west coast. Nestled against the Strait of Melaka, the convenient shipping route has, over the centuries, created a cosmopolitan populace, well schooled in English. Besides Pulau Langkawi, the islands of this coast don’t compare to those in the east or in Thailand, but they are always host to great seafood and an array of cultural adventures.

Melaka

%06 / Pop 860,000

Bright, loud, and practically preening with its wealth of homegrown galleries, crimson colonial-era buildings and showy trishaws, Melaka is the peacock of Malaysian cities.

Founded in the 14th century by Parameswara, a Sumatran prince/pirate (take your pick), the city has witnessed a flourishing of Malay civilisation as well as Portuguese, Dutch and finally British colonisation in 1795. Its historic centre was awarded Unesco World Heritage status in 2008. Old shophouses and mansions have been transformed into galleries and hotels, helping to preserve the city's kaleidoscope of architectural styles – spanning Peranakan (Straits Chinese), Portuguese, Dutch and British elements. Meanwhile, restaurants have found a booming audience of weekend visitors, all eager to sample the varied cuisines that have spawned from Melaka's cultural mosaic of residents.

Inevitably, a strong whiff of commercialism has accompanied this success. But Chinatown’s charm still lingers. Town Sq, also known as Dutch Sq, is the centre of a well-preserved museum district. Further northeast is Melaka’s tiny Little India. Backpacker guesthouses are found in Chinatown and around the nearby, less scenic Jln Taman Melaka Raya.

Melaka

1Sights

18 Heeren StreetB4

2Baba & Nyonya Heritage MuseumA4

3Cheng Hoon Teng TempleA3

4Maritime Museum & Naval MuseumA5

5Masjid Kampung KlingB3

6Porta de SantiagoC6

7St Paul's ChurchB5

8StadthuysB5

9Villa SentosaC1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10Eco Bike TourD7

11Melaka River CruiseC1

4Sleeping

12Apa Kaba Home & StayD5

13Jalan Jalan GuesthouseB3

14Ringo's FoyerA2

15Tidur TidurB4

5Eating

16Capitol SatayC4

17Low Yong MowB3

18SelvamC4

19Shui Xian VegetarianA3

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Calanthe Art CafeB4

21Geographér CafeA3

22Me & Mrs JonesA4

7Shopping

23Jonker Walk Night MarketB4

1Sights

Town Square & Bukit St Paul

StadthuysHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 6526; Dutch Sq; foreign/local visitor RM10/5; h9am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-12.15pm & 2.45-5.30pm Fri)

Melaka's most unmistakable landmark and favourite trishaw pick-up spot is the Stadthuys. This cerise town hall and governor's residence dates to 1650 and is believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the East. The building was erected after Melaka was captured by the Dutch in 1641, and is a reproduction of the former Stadhuis (town hall) of the Frisian town of Hoorn in the Netherlands. Today it's a museum complex, with the History & Ethnography Museum as the highlight. Admission covers all the museums. There is no fee for guided tours.

St Paul's ChurchRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kota; h24hr)F

The evocative ruin of St Paul's Church crowns the summit of Bukit St Paul, the hill overlooking central Melaka. A steep flight of stairs, signposted from Jln Kota, leads to this faded sanctuary, originally built by a Portuguese captain in 1521. The church was regularly visited by St Francis Xavier, and following his death in China, the saint's body was temporarily interred here for nine months before being transferred to Goa.

Porta de SantiagoRUINS

(A'Famosa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Bandar Hilir; h24hr)F

A quick photo stop at Porta de Santiago is a must. Built by the Portuguese as a fortress in 1511, the British took over in 1641, and set about destroying it at the turn of the 19th century to prevent it falling into the hands of Napoleon. Fortunately Sir Stamford Raffles happened by in 1810 and saved what remains today.

Maritime Museum & Naval MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 0926; Jln Quayside; adult/child RM6/2; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-8.30pm Fri-Sun)

Embark on a voyage through Melaka's maritime history at these linked museums. The most enjoyable of the three (one ticket covers them all) is housed in a huge recreation of the Flor de la Mar, a Portuguese ship that sank off the coast of Melaka. The fun of posing on the deck and clambering between floors rather eclipses the displays and dioramas, though the audio guide (RM3) adds engaging detail and a soundtrack of seagulls.

Chinatown

Chinatown is the heart of Melaka. Stroll along Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock, formerly called Heeren St, which was the preferred address for wealthy Baba (Straits-born Chinese) traders who were most active during the early 20th century. The centre street of Chinatown is Jln Hang Jebat, formerly known as Jonker St (or Junk St), which was once famed for its antique shops but is now more of a collection of clothing and craft outlets and restaurants. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights the street is transformed into the Jonker Walk Night Market. The northern section of quiet Jln Tokong (also known as Harmony St) has a handful of authentic Chinese shops.

Baba & Nyonya Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 1273; http://babanyonyamuseum.com; 48-50 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; adult/child RM16/11; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon)

Touring this traditional Baba-Nonya (Peranakan) townhouse transports you to a time when women peered at guests through elaborate partitions, and every social situation had its specific location within the house. The captivating museum is arranged to look like a typical 19th-century Baba-Nonya residence. Tour guides enliven the setting with their arch sense of humour. Book ahead or arrive just before the strike of the hour. Last tour of the day is an hour before closing time.

8 Heeren StreetHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h11am-4pm Tue-Sat)F

This 18th-century Dutch-period residential house was restored as a model conservation project. The project was partially chronicled in the beautifully designed coffee-table book Voices from the Street, which is for sale at the house, along with other titles. You can also pick up an Endangered Trades: A Walking Tour of Malacca's Living Heritage (RM5) booklet and map for an excellent self-guided tour of the city centre. Entry is free but donations are appreciated.

Cheng Hoon Teng TempleCHINESE TEMPLE

(Qing Yun Ting or Green Clouds Temple; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Jln Tokong Emas; h7am-7pm)F

Malaysia's oldest traditional Chinese temple, constructed in 1673, remains a central place of worship for the Buddhist community in Melaka. Notable for its carved woodwork, the temple is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.

Masjid Kampung KlingMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Hang Lekiu)F

This Chinatown mosque dates to 1748. The 19th-century rebuild you see today mingles a number of styles. Its multi-tiered meru roof (a stacked form similar to that seen in Balinese Hindu architecture) owes its inspiration to Hindu temples, the Moorish watchtower minaret is typical of early mosques in Sumatra, while English and Dutch tiles bedeck its interior. Admission times to go inside vary; dress modestly and if you're female bring a scarf.

Elsewhere

Villa SentosaHISTORIC BUILDING

(Peaceful Villa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 3988; Jln Kampung Morten; entry by donation; hhours vary, usually 9am-1pm & 2pm-5pm)

Malay village Kampung Morten is nestled right within central Melaka. The highlight of exploring the area, with its merry bridge and homes shaded by palm trees, is a visit to this living museum within a 1920s kampung house. Visitors (or rather, guests) are welcomed by a member of the household who points out period objects including photographs, Ming dynasty ceramics and a century-old Quran. You're unlikely to leave without a photo-op on plush velvet furniture or a few strikes of the lucky gong.

Bukit ChinaCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Puteri Hang Li Poh)

More than 12,500 graves, including about 20 Muslim tombs, cover the 25 grassy hectares of serene 'Chinese Hill'. Since the times of British rule, there have been several attempts to acquire Bukit China for road widening, land reclamation or development purposes. Fortunately, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, with strong community support, has thwarted these attempts.

2Activities

Melaka River CruiseBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4322, 06-286 5468; www.melakarivercruise.com; adult/child RM15/7; h9am-11.30pm)

Forty-minute riverboat cruises along Sungai Melaka (Melaka River) leave from two locations: one from the 'Spice Garden' on the corner of Jln Tun Mutahii and Jln Tun Sri Lanang in the north of town, and one at the quay near the Maritime Museum. Cruises go 9km upriver past Kampung Morten and old godown (river warehouses) with a recorded narration explaining the riverfront's history.

Eco Bike TourCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-652 5029; www.melakaonbike.com; 117 Jln Tiang Dua; per person RM100)

Explore the fascinating landscape around Melaka with Alias on his three-hour bike tour (minimum two people) through 20km of oil-palm and rubber-tree plantations and delightful kampung communities surrounding town. Flag your level of fitness when you book.

4Sleeping

Ringo's FoyerGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 6393, 016-668 8898; www.ringosfoyer.com; 46A Jln Portugis; dm/s/d/tr incl breakfast from RM15/18/30/60; aW)

This convivial hostel offers bike rental, laundry (RM8), guitars and the occasional rooftop barbecue: in short, this place has everything a weary backpacker could want. Slightly removed from central Chinatown's clamour, digs are as plain as the price suggests but they are clean and adorned with hilariously blunt etiquette signs. Rates for double rooms increase by RM5 at weekends.

Apa Kaba Home & StayGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-798 1232, 06-283 8196; www.apa-kaba.com; 28 Kg Banda Kaba; d RM45-90, tr RM60-129; aW)

This tranquil homestay has rooms as low-key and relaxing as its kampung (village) setting, despite being close to the roaring maelstrom of central Melaka. Rooms are simple (some have air-con) and there’s a large garden to lounge in, complete with dangling mango trees and the occasional speeding chicken. The 1912 building is a mish-mash of Malay and Chinese styles.

Jalan Jalan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 3937; 8 Jln Tokong Emas; dm/s/d RM16/30/40; iW)

This agreeable hostel is based within a restored old blacksmith's shop painted periwinkle blue. Fan-cooled rooms with one shared bathroom are spread around a tranquil inner garden-courtyard. As with some other older places, noise from your neighbours might keep you awake at night. Bike rental and laundry are available.

Tidur TidurGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %014-928 3817; tidurtidurgh@yahoo.com; 92 Lg Hang Jebat; weekdays/weekends per person RM15/20; W)

The name promises sweet dreams (tidur means 'sleep') but really you're here for the local feel and the hip riverside location of this simple guesthouse behind a T-shirt shop. The two- and four-bed dorm rooms aren't too airy but they are exceptional value.

5Eating

Peranakan cuisine is the most famous type of cooking here; it’s also known as ‘Nonya’, an affectionate term for a Peranakan woman (often the family chef). There’s also Portuguese Eurasian food, Indian, Chinese and more.

oNancy's KitchenPERANAKAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 6099; eat@nancyskit.com; 13 Jln KL 3/8, Taman Kota Laksamana; mains RM10; h11am-5pm Wed-Mon)

The mouth-watering meals stirred up in this Peranakan (Nonya) restaurant are revered in Melaka, and Nancy's Kitchen lives up to the hype. Local diners crowd this small restaurant, especially at weekends, their bellies rumbling for a taste of signature dishes like candlenut chicken (succulent meat simmered in a nutty sauce, fragrant with lemongrass). The restaurant stays open until 9pm on public holidays.

oPak Putra RestaurantPAKISTANI$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012-601 5876; Jln Kota Laksmana 4; mains RM8-10; h6pm-1am, closed alternate Mondays; v)

Scarlet tikka chickens rotate hypnotically on skewers, luring locals and travellers to this excellent Pakistani restaurant. With aromatic vegetarian dishes, seafood and piquant curries, there's no shortage of choice (try the masala fish). The unchallenged highlights are oven-puffed naan bread and chicken fresh from the clay tandoor. Portions are generous and service is speedy.

oSelvamINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 9223; 3 Jln Temenggong; mains RM6-9; h7am-10pm; v)

This classic banana-leaf restaurant is excellent value, with efficient and amiable staff. Generous servings of aromatic chicken biryani are eclipsed by the vegetarian offerings, in particular the Friday afternoon veggie special.

Capitol SatayMALAYSIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-283 5508; 41 Lg Bukit China; mains from RM8; h5pm-midnight; v)

Famous for its satay celup (a Melaka adaptation of satay steamboat), this place is usually packed and is one of the cheapest outfits in town. Stainless-steel tables have bubbling vats of soup in the middle where you dunk skewers of okra stuffed with tofu, sausages, chicken, prawns and bok choy.

Low Yong MowCHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-282 1235; Jln Tokong Emas; dim sum RM1-8; h5.30am-noon Wed-Mon)

Famous across Melaka for its large and delectably well-stuffed pao (steamed pork buns), this place is Chinatown's biggest breakfast treat. With high ceilings, plenty of fans running and a view of Masjid Kampung Kling, the atmosphere oozes all the charms of Chinatown. It's usually packed with talkative, newspaper-reading locals by around 7am. Food offerings thin out by 11am, so arrive early.

Shui Xian VegetarianCHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 43 Jln Hang Lekiu; mains RM5; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat; v)

In a city where vegetable dishes so often arrive strewn with shrimp or pork, vegetarians can breathe a sigh of relief here. This no-frills canteen whips up meat-free versions of nasi lemak, laksa and even 'chicken' rice ball.

DON’T LEAVE MELAKA WITHOUT TRYING…

Cendol Shaved-ice treat with jellies, coconut milk and Melaka’s famous cane syrup.

Laksa The regional version is distinguished by its coconut milk and lemongrass-infused broth.

Nonya pineapple tarts Buttery pastries with a chewy pineapple-jam filling.

Popiah An uber spring roll stuffed with shredded carrots, prawns, chilli, garlic, palm sugar and much, much more.

Satay celup Like fondue but better; dunk tofu, prawns and more into bubbling soup to cook it to your liking.

6Drinking & Nightlife

During the weekend night market on Jonker St, the happening bar strip on Jln Hang Lekir turns into a street party closed off to traffic.

Geographér CafeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 6813; www.geographer.com.my; 83 Jln Hang Jebat; h10am-1am Wed-Sun; W)

Some come to socialise, others are drawn by the free wi-fi. Either way, a swinging soundtrack of Eurotrash, jazz and classic pop keeps the beers flowing at traveller magnet Geographér. This well-ventilated cafe-bar, strewn with greenery, feels like a haven despite bordering busy Jonker St. Monday nights have live jazz while Friday and Saturday bring a father-daughter vocal-keyboard duet (both 8.30pm).

Calanthe Art CafeCOFFEE

(13 States Coffee; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06-292 2960; 11 Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-11pm; W)

Full-bodied Johor or classic Perak white? Choose a Malaysian state's favourite coffee and this perky place, also known as ‘13 States’, will have it blended with ice and jelly cubes for a refreshing caffeine kick. Breakfasts are served here too (10am to 11.45am).

Me & Mrs JonesPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-234 4292; 3 Jln Hang Kasturi; h7pm-12am Tue-Sun)

This cosy pub is staunchly un-hip and all the more enjoyable for it. At weekends there is live blues and rock, often with retired co-owner Mr Tan leading a jam session. Relax into the atmosphere and grab a beer or juice (long menus are not the Jones' style).

7Shopping

oJonker Walk Night MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Hang Jebat; h6-11pm Fri-Sun)

Melaka's weekly shopping extravaganza keeps the shops along Jln Hang Jebat open late while trinket sellers, food hawkers and the occasional fortune teller close the street to traffic. It has become far more commercial, attracting scores of tourists, but it is an undeniably colourful way to spend an evening shopping and grazing.

8Information

Moneychangers are scattered about town, especially near the guesthouses off Jln TMR and Chinatown.

Mahkota Medical CentreMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 3333, emergency 06-285 2991; www.mahkotamedical.com; Jln Merdeka)

A private hospital offering a full range of services including accident and emergency.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Laksamana; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

The post office is just north of Dutch Sq.

State Tourism OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %06-281 4803; www.melaka.gov.my; Jln Kota; h9am-2pm & 3-6pm)

Tourism office diagonally across Dutch Sq from Christ Church.

8Getting There & Away

Melaka is 144km southeast of KL.

Melaka’s local bus station, express bus station and taxi station are all combined into the massive Melaka Sentral ( GOOGLE MAP ), roughly 5km north of Town Sq. Because Melaka is a popular weekend destination, make advance bus reservations for Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Buses run to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (RM24 to RM28, two hours, hourly) and most destinations on the peninsula. Buses from Melaka:

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)
Cameron Highlands	37.50	5
Johor Bahru	20-24	3½
Kota Bharu	51	10
Kuala Lumpur	10-17	2
Mersing	28	4½
Singapore	24-27	4½

GETTING TO INDONESIA: MELAKA TO DUMAI

Getting to the border High-speed ferries (one way/return RM110/170, 1¾ hours) make the trip from Melaka to Dumai in Sumatra, Indonesia, daily at 10am. The quay is walking distance or a short taxi ride from most hotels and guesthouses. Tickets are available at Indomal Express (%06-281 6766, 019-665 7055) and other ticket offices near the wharf.

At the border Citizens of most countries can obtain a 30-day visa on arrival (VOA) in Indonesia (US$35).

Moving on Dumai is on Sumatra’s east coast and is a 10-hour bus ride from Bukittinggi. For information on making this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

8Getting Around

A taxi into town from Melaka Sentral should cost RM20 to RM25, or you can take bus 17 (RM1.40).

Melaka is a walking city. Bicycles can be hired at some guesthouses and hotels for around RM3 per hour.

Taking to Melaka’s streets by trishaw is a must – by the hour they should cost RM40, or RM15 for any one-way trip within the town, but you’ll have to bargain.

Taxis should cost around RM15 for a trip anywhere around town.

Cameron Highlands

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In Malaysia’s largest hill station area, the breeze is freshened by eucalyptus, fuzzy tea plantations roll into the distance, and strawberry farms snooze under huge awnings. Temperatures in these 1300m to 1829m heights rarely top 30°C.

Tourism is big business so expect quiet contemplation to be interrupted by the din of building sites, and hilltop views occasionally obscured by megaresorts. But the highlands’ combination of genteel tea culture, hiking trails and mild temperatures remains irresistible. With eco-conscious hiking, unexplored forests and some interesting temples, there is serenity to be found amid the touristic hubbub.

The Cameron Highlands stretches along the road from the town of Ringlet, through to the main highland towns of Tanah Rata, Brinchang and beyond to smaller villages in the northeast. There are a handful of ATMs in the tourist centre at Tanah Rata.

Cameron Highlands

1Sights

1Sam Poh TempleC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2CS Travel & ToursA5

3Eco CameronA5

4Sleeping

4Daniel's LodgeA4

5Eight MentigiA5

6Father's Guest HouseA5

7SnoozeC2

5Eating

8Lord's CafeB4

9Restaurant Bunga SuriaA5

10Restoran Sri BrinchangB5

1Sights & Activities

There are over a dozen numbered hiking trails in the area and maps are available at most guesthouses and tour offices. Ask about trail conditions before you set out as not all routes are maintained, and people occasionally get lost. At the highest elevations on Gunung Brinchang (take the main road or the steep and challenging trail 1 uphill), you'll be in the unique mossy forest environment that's like a Lord of The Rings world of orchids and green fuzz.

There are also strawberry, honey and butterfly farms to visit and produce markets to peruse.

Boh Sungei Palas Tea EstateTEA PLANTATION

(%05-496 2096; www.boh.com.my; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F

The Cameron Highlands' most famous tea plantation has a modern visitors centre, where you can watch a video on the estate’s history. There’s also a giftshop selling every version of Boh tea you can imagine and a pleasant cafe where you can sip tea while looking out over the lush plantations below. Free 15-minute tours showing the tea-making process are conducted during opening hours. Wait for a staff member to collect you from the visitor centre.

Sam Poh TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Brinchang)F

As unexpected sites in the hills go, a temple dedicated to a Chinese eunuch and naval officer just about tops the list. This temple, just below Brinchang about 1km off the main road, is a brilliant pastiche of imperial Chinese regalia, statuary dedicated to medieval admiral and eunuch Zheng Ho and, allegedly, the fourth-largest Buddha in Malaysia.

TTours

oEco CameronTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %05-491 5388; www.ecocameron.com; 72-A Psn Camellia 4, Tanah Rata; tours RM50-120; h8am-9.30pm)

This outfit specialises in nature tours of the Cameron Highlands: hiking, orchid walks, birdwatching and insect-spotting. Most enthralling are guided hikes through the Mossy Forest – Eco Cameron has exclusive access to a protected trail.

Jason Marcus ChinTOUR

(%010-380 8558; jason.marcus.chin@gmail.com; half/full-day tour from RM50/90)

Exceptional nature guide Jason Marcus Chin leads guided hikes on request, sharing superlative knowledge of flora and fauna along the way.

CS Travel & ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %05-491 1200; www.cstravel.com.my; 47 Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; h7.30am-7.30pm)

This agency leads popular half-day ‘countryside tours’ of the Highlands, departing at 8.45am and 1.45pm (adult/child RM25/20). Longer tours, such as the full-day ‘adventure tour’ (adult/child RM80/70), take in Gunung Brinchang and an Orang Asli village.

4Sleeping

The Highlands are at their busiest during the school holidays in April, August and December. During these times, book well in advance. Prices go up by around 25% at weekends and during holidays.

oFather's Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-566 1111; www.fathersguesthouse.net; 4 Jln Mentigi, Tanah Rata; dm/d/tr/q from RM210/74/95/127; piW)

Pleasant double rooms and clean 10-person dorms elicit sighs of relief from travellers checking in at Father's. Friendly staff ooze local knowledge, while hairdryers, good wi-fi, free tea and coffee, and a cafe are fine perks.

SnoozeGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %014-669 0108, 016-666 2102; chsnooze@gmail.com; 4 Jln Besar, Brinchang; d/tr/q from RM88/120/145; Wc)

The bright and cheery rooms at Snooze are excellent value. The cupcake wallpaper and buttercup bedsheets might be a little kitsch for some, but this clean guesthouse with friendly service is one of Brinchang's better places to stay. There are colourful sitting areas to chill or play, a fridge and laundry facilities, plus there are family rooms. Find more digs down the road at Snooze Too.

Eight MentigiGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %05-491 5988; www.eightmentigi.com; 8a Jln Mentigi, Tanah Rata; s/d/q from RM50/70/150; piW)

The digs, from six-bed dorms to spacious family rooms, are simple. But your host Smith gives a welcoming ambience to this fuss-free hostel. The main drawback is the unsightly location, near a building site, though it's only a stone's throw from Tanah Rata's main drag. The better doubles cost around RM90.

Daniel’s LodgeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %05-491 5823; www.daniels.cameronhighlands.com; 9 Lg Perdah, Tanah Rata; dm RM15, r with bathroom RM40-100, without bathroom RM20-60; iW)

The backpacker force remains strong at this longstanding hostel, also known as Kang's. The accommodation won't win prizes for comfort but despite the grungy feel it's a functional place with perks like wi-fi, a laundry service and a jungle-themed bar.

5Eating

Restaurant Bunga SuriaINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 66a Persiaran Camellia 3, Tanah Rata; set meals RM6-10; h7am-10pm; v)

The most crowd-pleasing (yet least manic) of Tanah Rata's Indian canteens has great value banana leaf meal specials and a good selection of curries. But where it really excels is at breakfast, when fresh idli (savoury, soft, fermented-rice-and-lentil cakes) pop out of the steamer, ready to surrender to a dunking in coconut chutney.

Restoran Sri BrinchangINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; mains RM4-20; h7am-10pm; v)

This busy place heaps spiced aubergine, pappadams and rice onto banana leaves for its filling lunches; it prides itself on spring chicken served straight from the tandoor.

Lord’s CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; mains RM2.50-4.90; h10am-9pm Wed-Fri & Mon, 10am-6pm Sat)

Despite the neon threat from Tanah Rata's controversial new Starbucks, Lord's Cafe, reassuringly decorated like your grandma's living room, lives on. Specialities include thick mango and banana lassis and apple pie, the standout star on a menu of cakes and ice cream sundaes. Find the cafe by following the Christian signage to the floor above Marrybrown fast food.

8Getting There & Around

Book tickets at the Tanah Rata bus station (also known as Terminal Freesia).

Local buses run from Tanah Rata to Brinchang (RM2, every two hours from 6.30am to 6.30pm).

Taxi services from Tanah Rata include Ringlet (RM25) and Brinchang (RM9).

Buses from Tanah Rata:

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)
Ipoh	18	2
Kuala Lumpur	35	4
Melaka	65	6
Penang	32	5
Singapore	135-140	10

Ipoh

%05 / Pop 757,892

Ipoh (ee-po) is undergoing a renaissance. Its faded tropical mansions and shophouses are being restored, with new cafes and craft shops springing up within historic buildings. The mellow Old Town showcases elegant colonia-era architecture, including the magnificent train station (known locally as the ‘Taj Mahal’).

A self-led walking tour of the Old Town is the best way to cover all of the colonial-era architecture; pick up the Ipoh Heritage Trail maps 1 and 2 at Tourism Malaysia Perak (%05-255 9962, 05-255 2772; www.tourism.gov.my; 12 Medan Istana 2 Bandar; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri).

4Sleeping

The majority of lodgings are east of the Sungai Kinta, over in the new town.

EloftHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %017-336 5592; 115 Jln Sultan Iskandar; dm incl breakfast RM30; aW)

Ipoh's friendliest backpacker accommodation opened its doors in July 2015. Partly run by volunteers, Eloft has one air-conditioned 14-bed mixed dorm, a pleasant common area and a balcony overlooking busy Jln Sultan Iskandar. Bike rental is available (six/24 hours RM8/20). Ring the bell for access (the doorway is easy to miss).

Abby By The RiverHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-241 4500; www.abbyhotel.my; cnr Jln Laxamana & Jln Sultan Iskandar; dm/d/tr from RM35/100/125; paW)

Nestled right by Sultan Iskandar bridge, the Ipoh branch of this Perak chain is well positioned for exploration of the old or new towns. Choose from three-bed single sex dorms, doubles or family rooms that sleep three. Rooms are comfy enough but the bland interior rather unfortunately evokes a hospital.

5Eating

Ipoh’s culinary specialities include ayam tauge (chicken with beansprouts and rice cooked in broth) – look for it at restaurants on Jln Dato Onn Jaafar around the Tengkar Pasar intersection – and Ipoh white coffee, made with palm-oil margarine and served with condensed milk, and found all around town.

oLim Ko PiCHINESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-253 2898; 10 Jln Sultan Iskandar; mains RM12; h8.30am-6pm)

From its colourful tiles to the pretty inner courtyard, this relaxing cafe has a strong whiff of Ipoh's old glory days. Meals include generous portions of prawn fried rice, curry noodles and smoky-but-sweet stewed pork, best accompanied by a perfectly prepared white coffee. Service is wonderfully unrushed compared to many of Ipoh's eateries.

oRestaurant Lou WongMALAYSIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-254 4190; 49 Jln Yau Tet Shin; mains RM12; hnoon-10pm)

This is the place to try Ipoh's esteemed signature dish, ayam tauge (chicken with beansprouts). You'll have to fight for space on the plastic stools that spill out from Lou Wong onto the road, but it's worth it for a taste of smooth poached chicken served with generous mounds of rice and plump beansprouts.

Sri Ananda Bahwan Banana LeafINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-253 9798; 7 Persiaran Bandar Timah; mains RM5; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; v)

Some of Ipoh's best Indian food is cooked up in this simple cafeteria in Little India. Mop up chutney and dhal with a fluffy dosa or order the generous banana leaf special, with mountains of rice and spiced okra. Leave space to take away a box of the excellent barfi, fudge-like confectionery in flavours from cashew to chocolate.

8Getting There & Away

The long-distance bus station, Terminal Amanjaya (%05-526 7818, 05-526 7718; www.peraktransit.com.my; Persiaran Meru Raya 5), is approximately 8km north of Ipoh. Bus 116 (RM2) connects Amanjaya and the more central Medan Kidd station, which handles services around Perak, while taxis cost roughly RM20 to RM25.

Ipoh’s train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab) has frequent services to both KL (RM12, 4½ hours) and Butterworth (RM17, five hours), the latter continuing to Hat Yai in Thailand (RM30, 10 hours).

Buses from Ipoh:

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)
Cameron Highlands	18.50-20	2
Butterworth/George Town (Penang)	20	2
Kuala Lumpur	from 20	2½-3
Alor Setar	29	4
Melaka	36-40	5
Kota Bharu	40	6
Hat Yai (Thailand)	55	6-7
Johor Bahru	60	7
Singapore	56-75	8