Korea
The Korean peninsula is a tantalizingly unexplored slice of East Asia - a pine-clad land of mountains, misty archipelagos and rice paddies of emerald green, studded with urban pockets of incomparable joie de vivre. While its troubled history has made Korea's very existence nothing short of miraculous, amazingly its traditions and customs have largely survived intact - and for visitors, this highly distinctive culture is an absolute joy to dive into.
Having gone their separate ways in 1953 after the catastrophic Korean War - essentially a civil war, but one largely brought about by external forces, which left millions dead and flattened almost the whole peninsula - the two Koreas are now separated by the spiky twin frontiers of the Demilitarized Zone. North Korea has armed itself to the teeth since 1953, stagnated in its pursuit of a local brand of Communism and become one of the least accessible countries in the world. Unbelievably, many foreigners seem to expect something similar of South Korea, which shows just how well kept a secret this fascinating place really is: beyond the glittering city of Seoul, gimchi, dog meat and taekwondo, little is known about the country in the outside world (and in actual fact, one of those four has largely gone the way of the dodo anyway).
After the war, the South gradually embraced democracy and has since gone on to become a powerful and dynamic economy. Its cities are a pulsating feast of eye-searing neon, feverish activity and round-the-clock business. Here you can shop till you drop at markets that never close, feast on eye-wateringly spicy food, get giddy on a bottle or two of soju, then sweat out the day's exertions at a night-time sauna. However, set foot outside the urban centres and your mere presence will cause quite a stir - in the remote rural areas life continues much as it did before the "Economic Miracle" of the 1970s, and pockets of islands exist where no foreigner has ever set foot.
Fact file
The Korean peninsula is split in two by the 4km-wide Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), sharing borders with China and - for about 20km, south of Vladivostok - Russia. These frontiers form a northern boundary with North Korea - the "Democratic People's Republic of Korea" - whose population of around 24 million live in an area half the size of the United Kingdom. Slightly smaller South Korea, also known as the "Republic of Korea", has a population of 49 million, making it the world's 26th most populous country.
Ethnic Koreans dominate the populations of both countries, making them two of the most ethnically homogenous societies on earth. Before splitting, both were traditionally Buddhist nations - though deeply steeped in Confucianism and shamanistic ritual. Since then the North has followed Juche, a local brand of Communism, while in the South Christianity has become the most popular religion.
Before the Japanese occupation in 1910, the Silla, Goryeo and Joseon dynasties were ruled over by an unbroken run of 116 monarchs, dating back to 57 BC.
The economies of South and North Korea were almost equal in size until the mid-1970s. The "Economic Miracle" that followed in the South has propelled it to the cusp of the world's top ten economies, while the North languishes just above 100th place.
Ceremonial guard, Gyeongbokgung, Seoul
Woljeongsa temple, Odaesan National Park
And for all its newfound prosperity, the South remains a land steeped in tradition. Before being abruptly choked off by the Japanese occupation in 1910, an unbroken line of more than one hundred kings existed for almost two thousand years - their grassy burial mounds have yielded thousands of golden relics - and even the capital, Seoul, has a number of palaces dating back to the fourteenth century. The wooden hanok housing of decades gone by may have largely given way to rows of apartment blocks, but these traditional dwellings can still be found in places, and you'll never be more than a walk away from an immaculately painted Buddhist temple. Meanwhile, Confucian-style formal ceremonies continue to play an important part in local life, and some mountains still even host shamanistic rituals.
As for the Korean people themselves, they are a real delight: fiercely proud, and with a character almost as spicy as their food, they're markedly eager to please foreigners who come to live or holiday in their country. Within hours of arriving, you may well find yourself with new friends in tow, racing up a mountainside, lunching over a delicious barbequed galbi, throwing back makkeolli until dawn, or singing the night away at a noraebang. Few travellers leave without tales of the kindness of Korean strangers, and all of them wonder why the country isn't a more popular stop on the international travel circuit.
The creation of hangeul
One thing that will strike you on a trip around Korea is hangeul, the peninsula's distinctive, almost Tetris-like alphabet. Amazingly, this was a royal creation, having been the brainchild of King Sejong in the 1440s. Most of this creative king's subjects were unable to read the Chinese script used across the land at the time, so he devised a system that would be easier for ordinary people to learn. Sejong was forced to do much of his work in secret, as the plan did not go down well with the yangban - Confucian scholars who were even more powerful than the royalty at the time. As the only truly educated members of society, the yangban argued fiercely against the change in an effort to maintain their monopoly over knowledge.
Hangeul experienced periodic bursts of popularity, but was almost erased entirely by the Japanese during their occupation of the peninsula (1910-45). However, it's now the official writing system in both North and South Korea, as well as a small autonomous Korean pocket in the Chinese province of Jilin; it's also used in Bau-Bau, a small town in Indonesia.
The alphabet, while it appears complex, is surprisingly easy to learn, and demonstrating that you can read even a handful of simple words will generate gasps of admiration across Korea. Just a few hours of hard study should suffice.
Rice wine
Jeongbang waterfall, Seogwipu, Jeju Island
Korea is still something of an unknown territory, and more than half of all its visitors get no further than Seoul. One of the largest and most technically advanced cities in the world, the capital regularly confounds expectations by proving itself steeped in history. Here, fourteenth-century palaces, imperial gardens, teeming markets and secluded tearooms continue to exude charm among a maze of skyscrapers and shopping malls. From Seoul, anywhere in the country is reachable within a day, but the best day-trip by far is to the DMZ, the strip of land that separates the two Koreas from coast to coast.
Gyeonggi, the province that surrounds Seoul, is a largely unappealing area dissected by the roads and railways that snake their way into the capital, but two of its cities certainly deserve a visit: Suwon, home to a wonderful UNESCO-listed fortress dating from the late eighteenth century; and cosmopolitan Incheon, where you can eat some of the best food in the country before making your way to the islands of the West Sea. By contrast, the neighbouring province of Gangwon is unspoilt and stuffed full of attractions - in addition to a number of national parks, of which craggy Seoraksan is the most visited, you can head to the unspoilt beaches and colossal caves that surround the small city of Samcheok, or peek inside a genuine American warship and North Korean submarine north of the sleepy fishing village of Jeongdongjin.
Hongdae, Seoul
The Taegeukki
South Korea's national flag - the Taegeukki - is one of the most distinctive around, and is heavily imbued with philsophical meaning. The design itself has changed a little since its first unveiling in the 1880s, though its fundamental elements remain the same: a red-and-blue circle surrounded by four black trigams, all set on a white background. The puritanical connotations of the white are obvious, whereas the circle and trigrams offer greater food for thought. The four trigams make up half of the eight used in the I Ching, an ancient Chinese book of divination. Each can represent a number of different concepts: moving clockwise from the top-left of the flag, these may be read as spring, winter, summer and autumn; heaven, moon, earth and sun; father, son, mother and daughter; as well as many more besides.
The circle is split into the "Yin-Yang" shape, its two halves representing opposites such as light and dark, male and female, day and night. Though coincidental, connections with the divided Korean peninsula are easy to find, with two opposing halves forming part of the same whole - the red half is even on top.
Playing Go outside Jongmyo shrine, Seoul
Stretching down from Gangwon to the South Sea lie the markedly traditional Gyeongsang provinces, home to some of the peninsula's most popular attractions. Foremost among these is gorgeous Gyeongju; capital of the Silla dynasty for almost a thousand years, and extremely laid-back by Korean standards, it's spotted with the grassy burial tombs of the many kings and queens who ruled here. There's enough in the surrounding area to fill at least a week of sightseeing - most notable are Namsan, a small mountain area peppered with trails, tombs and some intriguing Buddhas, and the sumptuously decorated Bulguksa temple, another sight on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Although less picturesque as a town, Andong is almost as relaxed as Gyeongju, and a superb base from which to access Dosan Seowon, a remote Confucian academy, and the charmingly dusty village of Hahoe, a functioning showcase of traditional Korean life. The region's rustic charm is actually best appreciated offshore on the windswept island of Ulleungdo, an extinct volcanic cone that rises precipitously from the East Sea, and where tiny fishing settlements cling barnacle-like to its coast. Thrills with a more urban flavour can be had in Busan, Korea's second city, which has an atmosphere markedly different from Seoul; as well as the most raucous nightlife outside the capital, it has the best fish market in the country, and a number of excellent beaches on its fringes.
Dancers, Korean Folk Village, Suwon
Titles and transliteration
The Korean peninsula is split into the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea). Most of this guide is about the former, which is referred to throughout as "Korea"; this is how locals refer to their nation when talking to outsiders, though in Korean they use the term "Hanguk". North Korea has, where necessary, been referred to as such, or as "the DPRK"; North Koreans' own word for both country and peninsula is "Choson".
Also note that a uniform system of transliteration is used throughout this guide. It's the best and most recent one, but as older generations have been schooled with different systems you may well spot a few varieties of the same word on your travels.
Even more characterful are the Jeolla provinces, which make up the southwest of the peninsula. Left to stagnate by the government while Korea's economy kicked into gear, they have long played the role of the renegade, though this energy is now being rechannelled. Violent political protests took place in regional capital Gwangju as recently as 1980, though the city has reinvented itself to become one of the artiest and most business-savvy in the land. Jeonju has a similar feel, plus a delightful district of traditional hanok housing, and is justly famed for its wonderful, flavoursome cuisine. Earthy Mokpo is the hub for ferry trips to a mind-boggling number of West Sea islands, dotted with fishing communities where life has changed little in decades, while inland there are a number of excellent national parks.
Pyongyang, North Korea
Shoes outside Jogyesa temple, Seoul
The Chungcheong provinces at the centre of the country are bypassed by many travellers, but this is a shame, as they contain some fine sights. The old Baekje capitals of Gongju and Buyeo provide glimpses of a dynasty long dead, Daecheon beach hosts a rumbustious annual mud festival that may well be Korea's most enjoyable event, and there are temples galore - the gigantic golden Buddha at Beopjusa is surrounded by 1000m-high peaks, while the meandering trails and vivid colour schemes at Guinsa make it the most visually stimulating temple in the land.
Lying within a ferry ride of the mainland's southern shore is the island of Jeju, a popular honeymoon destination for Koreans. While it's undoubtedly a touristy place, it has its remote stretches and anyone who has climbed the volcanic cone of Hallasan, walked through the lava tubes of Manjanggul or watched the sun go down from Yakcheonsa temple will tell you the trip is more than worthwhile.
And finally, of course, there's North Korea. A visit to one of the world's most feared and most fascinating countries will instantly earn you kudos - even experienced travellers routinely put the DPRK at the top of their "most interesting" list. Visits don't come cheap and can only be made as part of a guided tour, but the country's inaccessibility brings an epic quality to its few officially sanctioned sights.
Korea's year is split into four distinct seasons. Spring generally lasts from April to June, and is one of the best times to visit: flowers are in bloom, and a frothy cloak of cherry blossom washes a brief wave of pinkish white from south to north. Locals head for the hills, making use of the country's many national parks, and the effects of the change in weather can also be seen in a number of interesting festivals.
Korea's summer, on the other hand, can be unbearably muggy, and you may find yourself leaping from one air-conditioned sanctuary to the next. You'll wonder how Koreans can persist with their uniformly fiery food at this time, and you'll certainly be grateful for the ubiquitous water fountains. It's best to avoid the monsoon season: more than half of the country's annual rain falls from early July to late August. In a neat reversal of history, Japan and China protect Korea from most of the area's typhoons, but one or two manage to get through the gap each year.
The very best time of the year to visit is autumn (Sept-Nov), when temperatures are mild, rainfall is generally low and festivals are easy to come across. Korea's mountains erupt in a magnificent array of reds, yellows and oranges, and locals flock to national parks to picnic under their fiery canopies. T-shirt weather can continue long into October, though you're likely to need some extra layers by then.
The Korean winter is long and cold, with the effects of the Siberian weather system more pronounced the further north you go. However, travel at this time is far from impossible - public transport services continue undaunted, underfloor ondol heating systems are cranked up, and the lack of rain creates photogenic contrasts between powdery snow, crisp blue skies, off-black pine trees and the earthy yellow of dead grass.
Deogyusan National Park
Buyeo, Chungcheong
Average monthly temperatures and rainfall
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things not to miss
It's not possible to see everything that Korea has to offer on a short trip - and we don't suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the peninsula's highlights: fascinating museums, spectacular buildings and a few ways simply to indulge yourself. All highlights have a link to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.
01Insadong tearooms • Tea may have ceded ground to coffee across the nation, but Seoul's traditional Insadong district still has dozens of secluded places serving traditional brews.
02Udo • This bucolic, beach-frirged island, its narrow lanes lined with gorgeous walls of hand-stacked stone, is the ideal spot for a cycle ride.
03Huwon • Relax by the lake as kings once did at this secluded "Secret Garden", which nestles at the back of a UNESCO-listed palace in central Seoul.
04Jeonju hanok village • Here you can sleep in a traditional wooden hanok house heated from underneath by gentle flames, in one of Korea's most agreeable cities.
05Boryeong Mud Festival • Korea's dirtiest, most enjoyable festival takes place each July on the west coast - don't forget your soap.
06Makkeolli • Get drunk the local way with this milky rice wine, which has undergone a huge surge in popularity of late.
07The Teddy Bear Museum • The epitome of kitsch, most notable for its diorama room portraying twentieth-century events such as teddies tearing down the Berlin Wall, landing on the moon and going down with the Titanic.
08Guinsa • The most distinctive temple complex in the country, Guinsa's paths wind snake-like routes up a tight, remote valley in Korea's heartland.
09Yakcheonsa • Large, splendid temple on the southern coast of Jeju Island, and almost unique among Korean temples in that it faces the sea - pop along for sundown and evening prayers.
10Dosan Seowon • The wonderfully unspoilt countryside surrounding the city of Andong is studded with gems, and this former Confucian academy is one of the best.
11Flower ssambap • A feast of leaves, roots and shoots, topped with dozens of edible flowers - simply heavenly when swallowed down with barbecued duck.
12West Sea islands • Over three thousand islands are sprinkled like confetti around Korea's western coast - pick up a map in Mokpo, get on a ferry and lose track of time.
13Dongdaemun market • A 24-hour market in a city that never sleeps, Dongdaemun is a Seoul institution, with sights and smells redolent of decades gone by.
14Naejangsan National Park • Shaped like a soft volcano, this national park's ring of peaks provide the country's most mesmerising displays of autumn foliage.
15The DMZ • Take a step inside the 4km-wide Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea: the world's frostiest remnant of the Cold War.
16Buamdongand • Seoul's latest "secret" area is a quiet maze of roads tucked away behind the royal palaces. Here you'll find elegant restaurants and cafés - and very few tourists.
17Noraebang • A near-mandatory part of a Korean night out is a trip to a "singing room", the local take on Japan's karaoke bars.
18Galbi • A fire at the centre of your table and a plate of raw meat to fling onto it - could this be the world's most fun-to-eat dish?
19Gongsanseong • Overlooking the river in sleepy Gongju, the walls of this fortress follow an almost caldera-like course; in the middle you'll find dreamy pavilions and walking paths.
20Jeongdongjin • Korea's most surreal village has a train station on the beach, a ship-hotel atop a cliff, an American warship and a North Korean spy submarine.
21Gyeongju • The former capital of Silla is the most traditional city in Korea, and should be on every visitor's itinerary.
22Socialist realist art • That which has become ironic in Eastern Europe remains iconic in the DPRK, with colourful murals found all across the country - send one home on a postcard.
23Arirang Mass Games • Performers outnumber spectators at this feast of synchronized dance, one of the biggest and most spectacular events you're likely to see.
24Paekdusan • The legendary birthplace of the Korean nation, this dormant volcano - the highest peak on the peninsula - rises up through the Chinese-North Korean border, its crater lake a preternatural blue when not frozen over.
25Pyongyang • The world's least-visited capital - a rhapsody of brutalist architecture and red hangeul slogans extolling the virtues of the government and its leaders - proudly proffers its subway system on its list of attractions.