| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W |
Aalto, Alvar: 353
Abélard: 369–370
Abstract art: 351–353
Abstract Expressionism: 356–357
Abstract Surrealists: 355
Air travel: airfare, 5; carry-on restrictions, 11; flights, 553–554
Airports: Beauvais Airport, 552; Charles de Gaulle Airport, 434–435; Charles de Gaulle airport, 544–550; connecting between airports, 553; Orly Airport, 435, 550–552; transportation to hotels, 547
Almanac: 9
American Church and Franco-American Center: 22, 40, 41
American Library: 41
Apartments: 401–402; rental agencies, 435–437. See also sleeping
Apollo Basin (Versailles): 603–604
Apollo Gallery: 137
Apollo Room (Versailles): 594
Aquaboulevard: 497
Arab World Institute: 85
Arc de Triomphe: 76–77, 290, 291–295, 530; seeing with children, 491–492; views, 84
Architecture: 690–691
Architecture and Monuments Museum: 64–65
Army Museum and Napoleon’s Tomb: 66–67; general information, 227–228; maps, 231; overview, 228–229; tour, 227–250
Arrondissements: 14–15. See also neighborhoods
Art galleries: 273
Art Nouveau: 178–179
ATMs: 23, 432, 696–699. See also money
Attitude: 6–7
Au Lapin Agile Cabaret: 386–387
Auberge Ravoux (Auvers-sur-Oise): 660
Audioguides: 703; Chartres, 630; Orsay Museum, 158
Auvers-sur-Oise: general information, 655, 657; sightseeing, 658–660; sleeping and eating, 661; transportation, 656–657
Back Door travel philosophy: 13
Ballet: 82
Balzac (Rodin): 225
Bastille: 325. See also Place de la Bastille
Bastille Day: 310
Bateaux Parisiens: 39
Bateaux-Mouches: 38–39
Beaches: 56–57
Beauvais Airport: 552
Bed-and-breakfasts: 399. See also sleeping
Bernhardt, Sarah: 373
Big Weeping Willow (Monet): 268
Bike rentals: 36
Bike tours: 43–44
Biking: 33–36; with children, 496; Le Tour de France, 302–303
The Birth of Venus (Cabanel): 162
Boats: 38–42, 496–497. See also cruises
Bon Marché: 511–512
Booksellers: 110–111
Bookstores: 25, 95, 112–113, 424
Botticelli: 137
Boules: 404
Boulevard St. Germain: 255–256, 483
Boulevard St. Michel: 114
Brancusi, Constantin: 352
Braque, Georges: 349
Brasseries: 445–448
Brittany: 717
Burghers of Calais, The (Rodin): 225
Burgundy: 716
Bus tours: 37–38, 250–259; nighttime, 533; in Reims, 664
Buses: between Beauvais Airport and Paris, 552; bus #69 sightseeing tour, 250–259; between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris, 547–548; city bus system, 30–31; connecting between airports, 553; general information, 570; in Luxembourg Garden area, 424; in Marais, 413–416; in Montmartre, 432; between Orly Airport and Paris, 551; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 404–405; scenic buses for tourists, 34–35
Business hours: 695
Cabanel, Alexandre: 162
Cabaret de Patachou: 382–383
Café Carlu: 85
Café de Flore: 277
Café des Deux Moulins: 389
Café du Marché: 197–198
Café la Palette: 274
Café le Procope: 276–277
Café Roussillon: 192
Cafés: 445–448; on Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 484–485; at Gare de Lyon, 485; near Luxembourg Garden, 483–484; near St. Germain-des-Prés, 483; near the Louvre Museum, 485
Canal St. Martin: 481–482
Car rental: 664
Car travel: map, 571; parking in Paris, 570–571; self-guided driving tour (Reims), 680–682
Carnavalet Museum: general information, 86, 306, 313, 320; tour, 320–335
Carnegie Library (Reims): 674
Carnets: 26
Catacombs: 74–75
Catherine de Médicis: 323
Catholic League: 323
Celebrities of the Happy Medium (Daumier): 162
Cell phones. See mobile devices
Chagall, Marc: 350–351
Champs-Elysées: 75–76, 530; cafés, 484–485; maps, 292; seeing with children, 491–492; walk, 290–305
Champs-Elysées neighborhood: 15; eating, 291; maps, 76; sightseeing, 75–81
Chantilly (Town): 625
Chantilly Château: 614, 622–625
Charcuteries: 196–197
Charles de Gaulle Airport: general information, 544–546; getting to Disneyland Paris, 550; map, 545; sleeping near, 434–435; transportation to and from Paris, 546–550
Charles IX: 322–323
Charles X: 332
Chartres: Bishop’s Palace and Grounds, 643–644; Cathedral Close, 643; eating, 647; general information, 626–627; history, 634–635; International Stained Glass Center, 642; maps, 628–629; sightseeing, 627–642; sleeping, 645–646; tours, 630; walk, 643–645
Chartres Cathedral: general information, 627–630; labyrinth, 633; self-guided tour, 630–642
Châteaux near Paris: Auvers-sur-Oise, 659–660; Chantilly, 614, 622–625; Fontainebleau, 614, 617, 619–622; Vaux-le-Vicomte, 614, 615–618. See also Versailles
Cheese. See fromageries
Children: activities, 496–497; Disneyland Paris, 497–500; eating with, 489; planning ahead, 486–488; sightseeing and activities, 489–496
Chopin, Frédéric: 368–369
Christmas season: 541–543
Chunnel: 570. See also train travel
Church of St. Pierre-de-Montmartre: 375, 382
Churches, architecture, 690–691; Chartres Cathedral, 627–642; Church of St. Pierre-de-Montmartre, 375, 382; English-language churches, 725; Notre-Dame Cathedral, 52, 84, 94–95, 99–109, 491; Reims Cathedral, 668–672; Sacré-Cœur, 84–85, 92, 375, 378–381; Sainte-Chapelle, 56, 95–98, 116–120; St. Eustache Church, 318–319; St. Germain-des-Prés, 70–71, 277; St. Séverin Church, 113; St. Sulpice Church, 71, 278–279
Cimabue: 138
Cité des Enfants: 495–496
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie: 495–496
Cité Métropolitain Métro stop: 53, 121
Claudel, Camille: 177
Climate: 728–729
Clos Montmartre vineyard: 386
Clothing sizes: 728
Cluny Museum: general information, 69–70, 282–283; tour, 282–289
Colette: 371
Colonnade (Versailles): 603
Consulates: 724
Corday, Charlotte: 329
Cormon, Fernand: 179
Coronation Room (Versailles): 599–600
Courbet, Gustave: 164
Credit cards: 697–700. See also ATMs; money
Cruises: dinner cruises, 482; getting between Le Havre and Paris, 572–573; Le Havre cruise port, 571–572; Seine River, 38–39
Customs and duty: 702
Cycling. See biking
Da Vinci, Leonardo: 141–143
Dada movement: 354
Dalí, Salvador: 355
Danton, Georges: 328
Daubigny, Charles-François: 655, 658, 659
Daumier, Honoré: 162
David, Jacques-Louis: 144–145, 372
Day trips: Auvers-sur-Oise, 655–661; Chartres, 626–647; general information, 46, 575; Giverny, 648–655; long-range, 716–717; map, 576; Reims, 662–686. See also Versailles
D-Day Beaches: 717
De Gaulle, Charles: 250
Debit cards: 697–700. See also ATMs; money
Degas, Edgar: 169–170
Delaunay, Robert: 353
Delaunay, Sonia: 353
Delville, Jean: 179
Deportation Memorial: 53, 95, 109
Derain, André: 188
Detaille, Edouard: 179
Diana Room (Versailles): 592–593
Discounts: 696
Disneyland Paris: 497–500; transportation to, 498, 550, 552
Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 582, 608–610; map, 606. See also Versailles
Eating: along Canal St. Martin, 481–482; Auvers-sur-Oise, 661; beverages, 444–445; breakfast, 439–440; cafés and brasseries, 445–448, 482–486; in Chartres, 647; with children, 489; common French dishes, 451–455; costs, 5; crêpes, 443–444; dinner, 448–449; dinner cruises, 482; French regional specialties, 450–451; general information, 438–439; Giverny, 654–655; on Ile St. Louis, 470–472; in Luxembourg Garden area, 472–479; in Marais, 463–470; in Montmartre, 479–481; picnics and snacks, 440–442; at Puces St. Ouen, 519; in Reims, 684–685; restaurant phrases, 736; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 455–463; sandwiches and quick bites, 443; seasonal foods, 543; tipping, 439, 700; vegetarians, allergies, and dietary restrictions, 450; in Versailles, 612–613
Eiffel Tower: building, 210–211; eating, 204; general information, 10, 62–63, 254, 529–530, 202–206; history, 208–209; seeing with children, 490–491; tour, 202–214; views, 84
Eiffel Tower Neighborhood: 15–16; maps, 63, 203; sightseeing, 62–69
Electricity: 695–696
Embassies: 724
Entertainment: after-dark tours, 532–538; costs, 6; evening museum visits, 529; event listings, 524–525; film, 528–529; night walks, 529–531. See also music
Epernay: 686
Equestrian Performance Academy (Versailles): 598. See also Versailles
Esplanade des Invalides: 255
Etiquette: Métro, 28–29; shopping, 192
Eure River (Chartres): 645
Expositions d’Explora: 496
Expressionism: 353–354
Fahrenheit and Celsius conversion: 729
Fauchon: 507–508
Fauvism: 348–349
Festivals: 725–727
Flea markets: 517–520
Flower Market: 53
Fontainebleau (Town): 621–622
Fontainebleau Château: 614, 617, 619–621
Food tours: 43
Fragonard Perfume Museum: 83
Franco-American Center. See American Church and Franco-American Center
François I: 322
Franco-Prussian War: 334
Freebies: 60–61
French paintings: 144–147
French sculpture: 176–178
Fromageries: 194–195
Galerie d’Anatomie Comparée et de Paléontologie: 495
Galerie des Enfants du Muséum: 495
Galeries Lafayette: 85
Gallery of Marbles (Rodin Museum): 226
Gare d’Austerlitz: 566–567
Gare de Bercy: 567
Gare de l’Est: 564–565
Gare du Nord: 557
Gare Montparnasse: 560–562
Gare St. Lazare: 565–566
Gates of Hell, The (Rodin): 177, 225–226
Gauguin, Paul: 175–176
Géricault, Théodore: 146–147, 372
Giacometti, Alberto: 356
Giotto: 138–140
Giverny: general information, 648–649; maps, 650; Monet’s Garden and House, 651–653; Museum of Impressionisms, 653; sleeping and eating, 654–655; transportation, 649–651. See also Monet, Claude
Gleaners, The (Millet): 163
Grand Canal (Versailles): 604
Grand Palais: 78, 290–291, 300–301
Grand Trianon (Versailles): 605–608
Grande Galerie de l’Evolution: 495
Guillaume, Paul: 185
Hall of Mirrors (Versailles): 595
Haussmann, Georges-Eugène (Baron): 80, 333, 371–372
Hautvillers: 682
Héloïse: 369–370
Hercules Drawing Room (Versailles): 590
High-speed trains (TGVs). See train travel
Historic Core of Paris: 15; eating, 98; maps, 96–97; sightseeing, 52–57; walking tour, 94–125
History: 102–103, 687–689; Chartres, 634–635
Holidays: 310, 541–543, 725–727
Holocaust Memorial: 87–89
Home exchanges: 402. See also sleeping
Hop-on, hop-off boat tours: 39
Hop-on, hop-off bus tours: 37–38
Hostels: 399–400, 725. See also sleeping
Hôtel de Sully: 311
Hôtel de Ville: 318
Hôtel Hyatt Regency: 78–79, 85
Hotels: 394–399, 724–725. See also sleeping
Hugo, Victor: house, 91–92, 306
Ile de la Cité: 256–257
Ile St. Louis: 53, 109–110, 530; eating, 470–472; sleeping, 420–421
Impressionism: at the Marmottan Museum, 263–265; at the Orsay Museum, 166–173
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 146, 160–161, 372
Insurance: 8
International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 642
Internet access: in Chartres, 627; general information, 24–25; in Luxembourg Garden area, 424; in Marais, 413; in Montmartre, 432; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 403; security, 713–714
Internet cafés: 713
Internet calling: 711
Italian Renaissance: 141; art, 140–144, 148
Itineraries: 17–19
Jacquemart-André Museum: 84–85
Jardin des Plantes: 494–495
Jewish Art and History Museum: 87, 307
Jewish Quarter: 314–316
Joan of Arc: 107
Joséphine Baker Pool: 497
Kandinsky, Wassily: 351
King’s Bedroom and Council Rooms (Versailles): 596
Kings of Judah: 104
King’s Vegetable Garden (Versailles): 598. See also Versailles
Kisses: 199
Klee, Paul: 352–353
La Belle Epoque: 334–335
La Défense: 79–81
La Grande Arche de la Fraternité: 79–81
La Maison Rose: 386
La Maison-Atelier de Daubigny (Auvers-sur-Oise): 659
La Marseillaise: 331
Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 287–288
Language: barrier, 6–7; classes, 41, 715; coffee and tea lingo, 447; conversation swap, 41; crêpe lingo, 443–444; for the Métro and RER, 29; online translation, 696; picnic vocabulary, 441; pronunciation guide, 732–733; restaurant phrases, 736; shopping phrases, 502; survival phrases, 735; transportation phrases, 560–561
Latona Basin (Versailles): 603
Laundry: in Chartres, 627; in Marais, 413; in Montmartre, 432; in Reims, 664; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 403
Laurencin, Marie: 188
Le Bateau-Lavoir: 387–388
Le Petit Cler: 194
Le Tour de France: 302–303
Left Bank: 16; booksellers, 110–111; maps, 70, 270; sightseeing, 69–75; walk, 268–281
Léger, Fernand: 351
Les Deux Magots Café: 277
Les Halles: 318
Lhermitte, Léon: 180
Local guides. See guides
Loire Valley: 716
Louis Vuitton: 297
Louis XVII: 328
Louis-Philippe: 332
Louvre Museum: cafés near, 485; general information, 57–58, 126–130, 256; maps, 127, 131, 133, 139, 149; tour, 126–156
Luxembourg Garden: cafés, 483–484; eating, 472–479; general information: 72, 280–281; maps, 422–423, 474–475; seeing with children, 494; sleeping near, 421–429
Mail: 714–715
Maison du Docteur Gachet (Auvers-sur-Oise): 660
Major Museums Neighborhood: 15; maps, 58; sightseeing, 57–62
Mantegna, Andrea: 140–141
Maps: 718
Marais: eating, 315, 463–470; general information, 17, 257–258, 306–307, 412–416, 531; maps, 88–89, 308–309, 414–415, 466–467; sightseeing, 86–92; sleeping, 412–420; walk, 306–319
Marat, Jean-Paul: 328
Marché des Enfants Rouges: 521
Marie-Antoinette: 327–328; Domaine de Marie-Antoinette, 606, 608–610. See also Versailles
Markets: larger markets, 521–522; in Luxembourg Garden area, 424; in Marais, 412–413; in Montmartre, 432; open-air, 520–521; Puces St. Ouen, 517–519, 520; Rue Cler, 193–194; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 403. See also shopping
Marmottan Museum: general information, 67–69, 260–261; tour, 260–268
Mars Room (Versailles): 593
Martel (Reims): 678
Martin, Henri: 179
Matisse, Henri: 187–188, 348–349
Medieval art: 138–140
Meeting Americans: 41
Meeting locals: 40–41
Meetup: 41
Ménagerie des Jardins des Plantes: 495
Mercury Room (Versailles): 593–594
Metric conversions: 728
Métro: general information, 27–29; Cité Métropolitain Métro stop, 53, 121; in Luxembourg Garden area, 424; in Marais, 413; in Montmartre, 432; in Rue Cler neighborhood, 404
Michelangelo: 148
Millet, Jean-François: 163
Mobile devices: 10–11. See also telephones
Mobilis: 26–27
Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 686
Molière: 366–367
Mondrian, Piet: 352
Monet, Claude: 170–171, 182–186; garden and house, 651–653; at the Marmottan Museum, 260–268. See also Giverny
Money: cash, 696–697; credit and debit cards, 697–700; customs and duty, 702; exchange rate, 697; tipping, 700–701; VAT refunds, 701; what to bring, 696
Mont St-Michel: 717
Montand, Yves: 373
Montmartre: eating, 479–481; general information, 17, 375–378, 429–432; maps, 376–377, 430–431; sightseeing, 92–93; sleeping, 429–434; walk, 374–391
Montmartre Museum: 93, 375, 384–385
Morisot, Berthe: 266
Morrison, Jim: 367–368
Moulin de la Galette: 388
Moulin Rouge: 389–390
Mumm (Reims): 676–677
Mur des Fédérés (Père Lachaise Cemetery): 365
Musée Daubigny (Auvers-sur-Oise): 658
Musée de l’Absinthe (Auvers-sur-Oise): 659
Musée de l’Homme Cinéaqua: 491
Musée des Beaux-Arts: 77–78
Musée en Herbe: 492
Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 653
Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 675
Museum of Wine: 65
Museums: Architecture and Monuments Museum, 64–65; Army Museum and Napoleon’s Tomb, 66–67, 227–250; Carnavalet Museum, 86, 306, 313, 320–335; Cluny Museum, 69–70, 282–289; Dalí Museum, 92–93, 375, 384; Delacroix Museum, 71, 275; evening visits, 529; Fragonard Perfume Museum, 83; free or almost free, 60; Galerie d’Anatomie Comparée et de Paléontologie, 495; Galerie des Enfants du Muséum, 495; Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, 495; Holocaust Memorial, 87–89; Jacquemart-André Museum, 84–85; Jewish Art and History Museum, 87, 307; Louvre Museum, 57–58, 256; Marmottan Museum, 67–69, 260–268; Montmartre Museum, 93, 375, 384–385; Musée Daubigny (Auvers-sur-Oise), 658; Musée de l’Absinthe (Auvers-sur-Oise), 659; Musée de l’Homme Cinéaqua, 491; Musée des Beaux-Arts, 77–78; Musée en Herbe, 492; Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny), 653; Museum of the Surrender (Reims), 675; Museum of Wine, 65; National Maritime Museum, 64; Orangerie Museum, 62, 181–189; Orsay Museum, 59–61, 157–180; Paris Museum Pass, 47–49, 94; Picasso Museum, 86, 307, 336–344; Pompidou Center, 90, 307, 345–359, 492; Quai Branly Museum, 63–64; Rodin Museum, 67, 215–226
Music: classical concerts, 527–528; concert tickets at the Opéra, 82; free concerts, 61; jazz and blues clubs, 525–526; old-time Parisian cabaret, 526–527; opera, 528; Sunday organ recitals, 71
Napoleon Bonaparte: 233, 330; reign of, 249–-250
Napoleon I: 331–332
Napoleon III: 333–334
Napoleon’s Tomb: 66–67, 228, 229–234
National Maritime Museum: 64, 491
Near Eastern antiquities: 148–156
Neighborhoods: 15–17; map, 16. See also arrondissements
Newman, Barnett: 357
Night walks: 529–531. See also walking tours
Notre-Dame Cathedral: facade, 101–104; general information, 52, 94–95, 99–109, 530; interior, 104–108; seeing with children, 491; side view, 108–109; views, 84
Numbers: 727–728
Olympia (Manet): 163
Opéra Bastille: 528
Opéra Exhibit (Orsay Museum): 164–165
Opéra Neighborhood: 16; maps, 82; sightseeing, 81–85
Orangerie (Versailles): 601
Orangerie Museum: 62; general information: 182; maps: 186; tour: 181–189
Orly Airport: 550–551; getting to Disneyland Paris: 552; sleeping near: 435
Orsay Museum: 19th century, 159; general information, 59–61, 157–159; maps, 161, 167, 174; tour, 157–180; transportation to and from Paris, 551–552
Packing checklist: 731
Painter’s Studio, The (Courbet): 164
Palais de Justice: 120–121
Palais du Tau (Reims): 672–673
Palais Royal courtyards: 58–59
Panthéon: 72–73
Parc de la Villette: 495–496
Parenting French-style: 488
Paris Archaeological Crypt: 52–53, 95, 100
Paris Commune: 334
Paris Greeter: 40
Paris Museum Pass: 94
Paris Sewer Tour: 65–66
Paris Visite: 27
Paris Zoo: 492
Parks and gardens: 493
Parler Paris: 41
Parthenon friezes: 134–135
Passages: 522–523
Passe Navigo: 26
Passports: 8
Peace Room (Versailles): 596–597
Pedestrian safety: 23–24
Père Lachaise Cemetery: general information, 91, 259, 360–361; map, 362–363; tour, 360–373
Petit Bateau: 193
Petit Palais: 77–78, 291, 300–301
Petit Trianon (Versailles): 610
Pharmacies: 196
Piaf, Edith: 365–366
Picasso, Pablo: 187; media, 343; at Pompidou Center, 349–350; studio, 387–388; women, 340–341
Picasso Museum: 86, 307; tour, 336–344
Picnics: 440–442
Pig Alley: 390–391
Pigalle: 93
Pissarro, Camille: 172
Place d’Anvers: 378
Place Dauphine: 124
Place de la Bastille: 258, 307–310
Place de la Concorde: 301–303, 531
Place de la Madeleine: 507
Place des Vosges: 312
Place du Forum (Reims): 674
Place du Tertre: 383
Place du Trocadéro: 85
Place St. André-des-Arts: 115
Place St. Germain-des-Prés: 531
Place St. Michel: 115–116
Plages. See beaches
Planning: costs, 5–6; general information, 3–5, 8–11; itineraries, 17–19; when to go, 7
Poissonneries: 195
Pollock, Jackson: 356–357
Pompidou Center: general information, 90, 307, 317–318, 345–346; seeing with children, 492; tour, 345–359; views, 85
Pont des Arts: 271
Pont Neuf: 124–125
Pop art: 357–358
Porte de Clignancourt: 517–519
Porte de Mars (Reims): 674–675
Post-Impressionism: 173–176
Present-day France: 690–693
Printemps: 85
Promenade Plantée Park: 90–91
Proust, Marcel: 372–373
Puces de Vanves: 520
Puces St. Ouen: 517–519
Qatar Embassy: 296
Quai Branly Museum: 63–64
Queen’s Antechamber (Versailles): 598–599
Queen’s Bedchamber (Versailles): 597
Queen’s Guard Room (Versailles): 599
Raphael: 142
Rauschenberg, Robert: 357
Récamier, Juliette: 332
Reign of Terror: 328–329
Reims: eating, 684–685; general information, 662–663, 664; maps, 666–667, 681; sightseeing, 665–682; sleeping, 683–684; tourist information, 663; transportation, 663–665, 685–686
Reims Cathedral: 668–672
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 171–172, 186–187
RER: 29–30; between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris, 549; connecting between airports, 553; between Orly Airport and Paris, 551
Resources: maps, 718; recommended books and movies, 718–721; from Rick Steves, 717–718, 719
Revolution: 324–329
Revolution of 1830: 332
Revolution of 1848: 332–333
Rietveld, Gerrit: 353
Rive Gauche. See Left Bank
Robespierre: 329
Rodin, Auguste: 176–178
Rodin Museum: general information, 67, 215–217; tour, 215–226
Roger-Viollet: 272
Rollerblading: 37; with children, 496
Roman art: 135
Romanticism: 333
Room and board: 5. See also eating; sleeping
Rose Trellises (Monet): 267
Rossini, Gioacchino: 371
Rouault, Georges: 355–356
Rousseau, Henri: 188–189
Route de la Champagne (Reims): 678–682; map, 681
Royal Chapel (Versailles): 589
Rue Cler: eating, 455–463; general information, 402–405; maps, 406–407, 458–459; markets, 520; sleeping, 402–411; walk, 190–201
Rue Daguerre: 520
Rue de Buci: 520–521
Rue de la Roquette: 258
Rue de Seine: 520–521
Rue des Canettes: 278
Rue des Changes (Chartres): 644
Rue des Francs-Bourgeois: 312–313
Rue des Grenets (Chartres): 644–645
Rue des Rosiers: 314–316
Rue Mouffetard: 520
Rue Norvins: 383
Rue Pavée: 313–314
Rue Royale: 510
Rue St. Antoine: 310–311
Rue St. Dominique: 254–255
Rue St. Honoré: 510
Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie: 316–317
Sacré-Cœur: 92, 375, 378–381; views, 84–85
Sainte-Chapelle: 56, 95–98, 116–120; concerts, 527
Salle Pleyel: 527–528
Salon of Abundance (Versailles): 590–591
Salon of the Nobles (Versailles): 597–598
San Francisco Book Company: 25, 424
Sand, George: house, 273–274
Satie, Erik: house, 384–385
Scooter tours: 45
Segway tours: 44–45
Seine River: 124–125; cruises, 38–39, 496–497
Seurat, Georges: 372
Shakespeare and Company: 25, 95, 112–113
Shopping: arcaded shopping streets, 522–523; boutiques, 506–517; clothing sizes, 728; costs, 6; customs and duty, 702; department stores, 503–506; general information, 501; high-end, 83–84; maps, 504–505, 508, 512, 518; souvenir shops, 503; tips, 501–502; VAT refunds, 701. See also Champs-Elysées; markets
Sightseeing: avoiding lines, 24; buying tickets, 49–51; in Chartres, 627–642; with children, 489–496; costs, 6; days of the week, 20–21; discounts, 696; frugal sightseeing options, 60–61; in Giverny, 651–653; maps, 50–51; photography, 703; planning, 702–703; in Reims, 665–682; at the sights, 703–704; sights open early or late, 68. See also museums
Signoret, Simone: 373
Sleeping: apartments, 401–402, 435–437; Auvers-sur-Oise, 661; bed-and-breakfasts, 399; in Chartres, 645–646; costs, 5; at Disneyland Paris, 499–500; general information, 392–393; Giverny, 654–655; home exchanges, 402; hostels, 399–400, 725; hotels, 394–399, 724–725; on Ile St. Louis, 420–421; in the Marais, 412–420; in Montmartre neighborhood, 429–434; near Luxembourg Garden, 421–429; online reviews, 398; rates and deals, 393–394; in Reims, 683–684; reservations, 400–401; in the Rue Cler neighborhood, 402–411; sleep code, 395; types of rooms, 396; in Versailles, 611–612
Soutine, Chaim: 189
St. Denis: 101–103
St. Eustache Church: 318–319
St. Germain-des-Prés: 70–71, 277
St. Séverin Church: 113
St. Sulpice Church: 71, 278–279
St. Thomas Aquinas: 107
Stained glass: 118; Chartres, 636–637, 639, 642; Chartres Cathedral, 633–637; Cluny Museum, 284–285; Sacré-Cœur, 381; Sainte-Chapelle, 117–120
Stein, Gertrude: 364
Submarine: 496
Surrealism: 354–355
Swimming: 497
Tabacs. See tobacco stands
Taittinger (Reims): 677–678
Taxis: 31–33; between Beauvais Airport and Paris, 552; between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris, 549–550; in Chartres, 627; connecting between airports, 553; floodlit Paris taxi tour, 533–538; in Marais, 416; in Montmartre, 432; between Orly Airport and Paris, 551; in Reims, 664; tipping, 700
Telephones: dialing internationally, 705; dialing tips, 705–706; dialing within France, 704–705; European calling chart, 708–709; general information, 704; Internet cafés and public Internet terminals, 713; landline telephones, 713; roaming, 704, 706–710; types of telephone cards, 714; using an American smartphone in Europe, 706–710; using European SIM cards, 710–712
Temple of Love (Versailles): 609–610
TGVs. See train travel
Theft: 22–23, 28–29, 206, 583, 695; credit and debit cards, 699–700
Thinker, The (Rodin): 224–225
TI. See tourist information
Ticket Jeunes Week-end: 27
Time zones: 695
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de: 165; house, 388
Tourist information: in Chartres, 627; general information, 20–22, 694–695, 724–725; in Marais, 412; in Montmartre, 432; in Reims, 663
Tourist publications: 22
Tours: after-dark tours, 532–538; bike, 43–44; boat, 38–42; bus, 37–38, 533; champagne, 676–678; excursions from Paris, 46; food, 43; good-value, 61; pedicab, 45, 532–533; scooter, 45; Segway, 44–45; taxi, 533–538; Versailles, 583; walking, 42–43; weekend tour packages for students, 45; wheelchair, 45
Toy store: 274
Train stations, Gare d’Austerlitz, 566–567; Gare de Bercy, 567; Gare de l’Est, 564–565; Gare de Lyon, 562–564; Gare du Nord, 557; Gare Montparnasse, 560–562; Gare St. Lazare, 565–566; general information, 555–556; map, 556
Train travel: between Beauvais Airport and Paris, 552; to Brussels and Amsterdam by Thalys train, 567–568; buying tickets, 554–555, 566–567; Chunnel, 570; high-speed trains (TGVs), 8–10; key phrases, 560–561; to London by Eurostar train, 568–569; maps, 558–559; reservations, 555, 566–567; schedules, 554; SCNF boutiques, 566–567; to Southern France by low-cost TGV trains, 568; strikes, 565; tips, 562–563
Transportation: carnets, 26; costs, 5; to hotels, 547; Mobilis, 26–27; Paris Visite, 27; Passe Navigo, 26; public-transit tickets, 26; Ticket Jeunes Week-end, 27. See also biking; buses; Métro; RER; taxis
Travel advisories: 724
Travel agencies: 403–404
Travel insurance: 8
Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 582; Grand Trianon, 605–608; map, 606; Petit Trianon, 610. See also Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles); Versailles
Utrillo, Maurice: 189, 384, 385
Van Gogh, Vincent: 173–175, 656; grave, 658–659; house, 389
VAT refunds: 701
Vaux-le-Vicomte Château: 614, 615–618
Vedettes du Pont Neuf: 39
Vélib bikes: 36. See also biking
Venus de Milo: 132–133
Venus Room (Versailles): 591–592
Vernon: 653
Veronese, Paolo: 144
Versailles: eating, 584–586, 612–613; general information, 577–580, 581–586; getting to Versailles, 580; map, 612; maps, 578–579; passes, 582; planning your time, 580–581; seeing with children, 493; self-guided tour, 587–610; sleeping, 611–612; tours, 583. See also Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles); Equestrian Performance Academy (Versailles); King’s Vegetable Garden (Versailles); Trianon Palaces (Versailles)
Versailles (Town): 611–613
Versailles Château: general information, 577, 582; maps, 588, 591; self-guided tour, 587–600
Versailles fountains: 586
Versailles Gardens: 582, 583, 601–604
Versailles Royal Opera House: 589
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (Reims): 678
Views: best, 84–85; Eiffel Tower, 64, 206; from Hôtel Hyatt Regency, 78–79
Voltaire: 272
Wagner, Richard: house, 274–275
Walking tours: Champs-Elysées, 290–305; Chartres, 643–645; general information, 42–43; Historic Paris, 94–125; Left Bank, 268–281; Marais, 306–319; Montmartre, 374–391; Rue Cler, 190–201. See also night walks
War Room (Versailles): 594–595
Water Lilies (Monet): 182–184, 267–268
WCs: 25; on the Champs-Elysées, 291; in Historic Paris, 98–99; at Versailles, 583–584
Weather: 728–729
Websites: Rick Steves’, 719; tourist information, 22
W.H. Smith: 25
Wheelchair tours: 45
WICE (Women in Continuing Education): 41, 715
Wilde, Oscar: 272–273, 363–364
Wine: 444–445; Museum of Wine, 65; on Rue Cler, 194
Wine tasting: 40–41
Winged Victory of Samothrace: 136
Winter: 539–543
World War I: 234–238, 335, 353
World War II: 238–247