Turin, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera

Why Go?

The beauty of northwestern Italy is its diversity. Piedmont's capital, Turin, is an elegant, easy city of baroque palaces, cutting-edge galleries and fittingly fabulous dining. While the region might have been one of Italy's 20th-century industrial success stories, it has also retained deep, lasting links to the soil, its wines and culinary offerings earning it the name of the ‘new Tuscany’.

To the south, Liguria's slim, often vertical, sliver is home to Italy's Riviera, the fabled port city of Genoa and the beguiling villages of Cinque Terre. Expect dramatic coastal topography, beautifully preserved architecture and one of Italy’s most memorable cuisines.

Head north and you’ll soon hit the Alps and the semi-autonomous region of Aosta, where you can ski or hike beneath Europe's highest mountains while discovering its delightful French-tinged traditions along the way.

When to Go

Jan–Mar Most reliable snow cover for skiing in the Alps.
Apr Fewer crowds and fine days on the Ligurian coast.
Sep & Oct Autumn food festivals in Turin and the Langhe.

Best Places to Eat

A La Piola

A Banco vini e alimenti

A Il Marin

A Gaudenzio

A La Cucina di Nonna Nina

A Dandelion

Best Places to Sleep

A DuParc Contemporary Suites

A Palazzo Grillo

A Villa Rosmarino

A Via Stampatori

A La Sosta di Ottone III

Turin, Piedmont & Liguria Highlights

1 Museo Egizio Exploring the largest collection of Egyptian history outside of Cairo.

2 Palazzi dei Rolli Discovering the art and architecture of Genoa’s once-great maritime empire.

3 Barolo Discussing terroir, tannins and tenacity with some of the world’s most revered winemakers.

4 Cinque Terre Hiking the blue trail, the red trail, the sanctuary trails – in fact, any trail.

5 Funivie Monte Bianco Jumping the border aboard the state-of-the-art cable-car in Valle d'Aosta.

6 Truffle festival Braving the crowds of truffle-snorting high rollers in Alba in October.

7 Tellaro Swimming in the Golfo di Poeti and remembering Shelley and Byron.

The Italian Riviera

Italy's famed crescent of Mediterranean coast, where the Alps and the Apennines cascade into the sea, is defined by its sinuous, giddy landscapes. The region of Liguria is shaped by its extreme topography – its daily life is one of ascents and descents, always in the presence of a watery horizon.

Anchored beside the region's best natural harbour is noble Genoa. Known as La Superba (the Superb One) to biased locals, it's a city that ruled over one of the finest maritime empires in medieval Europe. Fanning out on either side is the Riviera (western 'Ponente', eastern 'Levante'), including the Portofino peninsula, along with legendary Cinque Terre.

This is both a deeply historic destination and a fabulously in-the-moment pleasure-seeking one, where you can explore lavish palazzi or humble village churches and then simply swim, eat, walk or stare at the sea.

Genoa

%010 / Pop 594,750

Italy's largest sea port is indefatigably contradictory, full at once of grandeur, squalor, sparkling light and deep shade. But a gateway to the Riviera for many travellers today, a weighty architectural heritage speaks of its former glory – the Most Serene Republic of Genoa ruled over the Mediterranean waves during the 12th to the 13th centuries – and history feels alive in Genoa. No more is this true than in its extensive old city, an often confronting reminder of pre-modern life with its twisting maze of narrow caruggi (streets), largely intact. Emerge blinking from this thrillingly dank heart to Via Garibaldi and the splendid Enlightenment-era gold-leaf halls of the Unesco-listed Palazzi dei Rolli.

The city's once-tatty port area now hosts museums and a number of eating and drinking options. Its old town, too, has had its own far more organic revitalisation, with a bright new crop of fashionable shops, restaurants and bars lighting the way.

Genoa

1Top Sights

1Musei di Strada NuovaE3

2Palazzo RealeC2

3Primo PianoE4

1Sights

4AcquarioC4

5Casa della Famiglia ColomboF6

6Cattedrale di San LorenzoE5

7Chiesa del GesùE5

8Franco Albini ApartmentE3

9Galata Museo del MareB2

10Galleria NazionaleD4

11Museo del TesoroE5

12Old CityD4

13Palazzo BiancoE3

14Palazzo della BorsaF5

Palazzo Doria-TursiE3

15Palazzo DucaleE5

16Palazzo RossoE3

17Piazza de FerrariF5

18Porta dei VaccaC3

19Porta SopranaF6

20Porto AnticoC4

21Santa Maria di CastelloD6

2Activities, Courses & Tours

22Piscina Porto AnticoB4

4Sleeping

23B&B Palazzo MoraliD5

24Hotel CairoliD3

25Hotel Cristoforo ColomboE6

26La SuperbaC3

27Le NuvoleD4

28Locanda di Palazzo CicalaD5

29Palazzo CambiasoD3

Palazzo GrilloE4

30Quarto PianoD3

5Eating

31Focaccia e DintorniD5

32Gelateria ProfumoE4

33Gelateria San LucaD3

34Il MarinC5

35La BerloccaE4

36MangiabuonoD6

37Officina 34E6

38Ombre RosseE5

39Pane e TulipaniE4

40RoosterE5

41Trattoria Da MariaF4

42Trattoria RosmarinoE5

6Drinking & Nightlife

43Bar Gio.SiE5

44Café degli SpecchiE5

45Cantine MatteottiE5

46Cavo CafeE5

47Enoteca PesceD4

48Fratelli KlaingutiE4

49Les RougesE4

50Scurreria Beer & BagelE5

3Entertainment

51Giardini LuzzatiE6

52Teatro Carlo FeliceF5

7Shopping

53Butteghetta Magica di Tinello DanielaE4

54Lipstick VintageF4

55Mimì e CocòF4

56Pasticceria ProfumoF3

57Pietro Romanengo fu StefanoE4

58Via Garibaldi 12E3

1Sights

Old CityAREA

(Centro Storico; MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The heart of medieval Genoa – bounded by ancient city gates Porta dei Vacca and Porta Soprana, and the streets of Via Cairoli, Via Garibaldi and Via XXV Aprile – is famed for its caruggi (narrow lanes). Looking up at the washing pegged on lines everywhere, it becomes obvious that these dark, cave-like laneways and blind alleys are still largely residential, although the number of fashionable bars, shops and cafes continues to grow.

Parts of the caruggi can feel somewhat unnerving, especially after dark. Although it's not particularly dangerous, do take care in the zone west of Via San Luca and south to Piazza Banchi, where most street prostitution and accompanying vice concentrates. East of the piazza is Via Orefici, where you'll find market stalls.

oMusei di Strada NuovaMUSEUM

(Palazzi dei Rolli; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 557 21 93; www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi; combined ticket adult/reduced €9/7; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat & Sun summer, to 6.30pm winter)

Skirting the northern edge of what was once the city limits, pedestrianised Via Garibaldi (formerly called the Strada Nuova) was planned by Galeazzo Alessi in the 16th century. It quickly became the city's most sought-after quarter, lined with the palaces of Genoa's wealthiest citizens. Three of these palazzi – Rosso, Bianco and Doria-Tursi – today comprise the Musei di Strada Nuova. Between them, they hold the city's finest collection of old masters. Whether you visit the actual museums or not, the street is a must to wander.

Buy tickets to the Musei di Strada Nuova at the bookshop inside Palazzo Doria-Tursi.

Palazzo RossoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 18; combined ticket adult/reduced €9/7; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat & Sun summer, to 6.30pm winter)

Lavishly frescoed rooms in Palazzo Rosso, part of the Musei di Strada Nuova, provide the backdrop for several portraits by Van Dyck of the local Brignole-Sale family. Other standouts include Guido Reni’s San Sebastiano and Guercino’s La morte di Cleopatra (The Death of Cleopatra), as well as works by Veronese, Dürer and Bernardo Strozzi.

Franco Albini ApartmentARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museidigenova.it; Palazzo Rosso, Via Garibaldi 18)

One of Italy's best-loved 20th-century architects, Franco Albini was a key figure in the restoration of Genova's palazzi in the post-war period. The third floor of the Palazzo Rosso hides an Italian mid-century gem – an apartment Albini designed for the museum's director, now open to the public. Its mix of signature Albini furniture, clean modern lines and Genovese excess, will delight design fans (the city views aren't bad either).

Palazzo BiancoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 11; combined ticket adult/reduced €9/7; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat & Sun summer, to 6.30pm winter)

Flemish, Spanish and Italian artists feature at Palazzo Bianco, the second of the triumvirate of palazzi that are together known as the Musei di Strada Nuova. Rubens’ Venere e Marte (Venus and Mars) and Van Dyck’s Vertumna e Pomona are among the highlights, which also include works by Hans Memling, Filippino Lippi and Murillo, as well as 15th-century religious icons. Beyond the art itself, architect Franco Albini's mid-century refit is particularly lovely here.

Palazzo Doria-TursiMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 9; combined ticket adult/reduced €9/7; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat & Sun summer, to 6.30pm winter)

This palace, one of three that together make up the Musei di Strada Nuova, features a small but absorbing collection of legendary violinist Niccolò Paganini’s personal effects. In the Sala Paganiniana, pride of place goes to his Canone violin, made in Cremona in 1743. One lucky musician gets to play the maestro’s violin during October’s Paganiniana festival. Other artefacts on show include letters, musical scores and his travelling chess set.

The palace has also housed Genoa’s town hall since 1848.

oPalazzo RealePALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 271 02 36; www.palazzorealegenova.beniculturali.it; Via Balbi 10; adult/reduced €4/2; h9am-7pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-7pm Sun)

If you only get the chance to visit one of the Palazzi dei Rolli (a group of palaces belonging to the city's most eminent families), make it this one. A former residence of the Savoy dynasty, it has terraced gardens, exquisite furnishings, a fine collection of 17th-century art and a gilded Hall of Mirrors that is worth the entry fee alone.

oPrimo PianoGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelpalazzogrillo.it; Vico alla Chiesa delle Vigne 18r; h4-8pm Wed-Sun)F

A beautiful historical space that runs a program of modern and contemporary shows along interesting curatorial themes. The focus is often on photography. It's part of Palazzo Grillo hotel but has a separate backstreet entrance.

Santa Maria di CastelloABBEY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 86 03 90, 347 995 67 40; www.santamariadicastello.it; Salita di Santa Maria di Castello 15; h10-1pm & 5-6pm)

Built on the site of the original settlement, and sheltering under the 11th-century Embriaci Tower, this Romanesque church and convent, itself built before AD 900, is an extraordinary and little-visited historic site. Its walls are covered with treasures that were commissioned by the noble families of Genoa from the earliest times, though some of the notable frescoes also date to the 16th and 17th century. Private tours, by coin donation, are possible.

La LanternaLIGHTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lanternadigenova.it; Via alla Lanterna; adult/reduced €5/4; h2-6.30pm Sat & Sun)

The port may have changed radically since its '90s rebirth, but its emblematic sentinel hasn't moved an inch since 1543. Genoa's lighthouse is one of the world's oldest and tallest – and it still works, beaming its light over 50km to warn ships and tankers. Visitors can climb 172 steps and ponder exhibits in an adjacent museum of lamps, lenses and related history.

La Lanterna is best accessed via a special 800m walking trail that starts at the ferry terminal. It's surrounded by a pleasant park. On the last Sunday of the month there are guided tours (meet at Palazzo San Giorgio; €15 per person).

Casa della Famiglia ColomboMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coopculture.it; Piazza Dante; admission €6; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Not the only house claiming to be the birthplace of the navigator Christopher Columbus (Calvi in Corsica is another contender), this one probably has the most merit, as various documents inside testify. Curiously, it stands just outside the old city walls in the shadow of the Porta Soprana gate (built in 1155).

Cattedrale di San LorenzoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Lorenzo; h8am-noon & 3-7pm)

Genoa's zebra-striped Gothic-Romanesque cathedral owes its continued existence to the poor quality of a British WWII bomb that failed to ignite here in 1941; it still sits on the right side of the nave like an innocuous museum piece.

The cathedral, fronted by three arched portals, twisting columns and crouching lions, was first consecrated in 1118. The two bell towers and cupola were added later in the 16th century.

Inside, above the central doorway, there's a great lunette with a painting of the Last Judgment, the work of an anonymous Byzantine painter of the early 14th century. In the sacristy, the Museo del Tesoro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 247 18 31; Piazza San Lorenzo; adult/child €6/4.50; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) preserves various dubious holy relics, including the medieval Sacro Catino, a glass vessel once thought to be the Holy Grail. Other artefacts include the polished quartz platter upon which Salome is said to have received John the Baptist's head, and a fragment of the True Cross.

AcquarioAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.acquariodigenova.it; Ponte Spinola; adult/reduced €22/17; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun summer, from 9.30am winter; c)

Genoa's much-vaunted aquarium is one of the largest in Europe, with more than 5000 sea creatures, including sharks. Moored at the end of a walkway is the ship Nave Blu, a unique floating display, specialising in exhibits of coral reefs. The aquarium’s 'cetaceans pavilion' may concern some visitors: while the dolphins do not perform tricks and the aquarium fulfils its international legal requirements, including rehousing abused dolphins, animal welfare groups claim keeping dolphins in enclosed tanks such as these is harmful.

Buy tickets online to avoid long, hot queues (and harassment from street traders) in summer; a combination ticket (adult/reduced €49/40) gives you access to other port attractions, the Galata Museo del Mare, the Biosphere and the panoramic lift. During August, it's open until 10.30pm; note last entrance is two hours before closing.

Galata Museo del MareMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galatamuseodelmare.it; Calata de Mari 1; admission €11; h10am-7.30pm, closed Mon Nov-Feb)

Genoa was rivalled only by Barcelona and Venice as a medieval and Renaissance maritime power, so its 'museum of the sea' is, not surprisingly, one of its most relevant and interesting. High-tech exhibits trace the history of seafaring, from Genoa’s reign as Europe’s greatest dockyard to the ages of sail and steam.

BoccadasseVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

When the sun is shining, do as the Genovese do and decamp for a passeggiata along the oceanside promenade, Corso Italia, which begins around 3km east of the city centre. This broad 2.5km-long pavement lined with Liberty villas leads to Boccadasse, a once separate fishing village that appears like a sawn-off chunk of Cinque Terre. Its pebble beach is a perfect gelato-licking location by day and its gaggle of small bars serve up spritzes to happy crowds on summer evenings.

Galleria NazionaleGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palazzospinola.beniculturali.it; Piazza Superiore di Pellicceria 1; adult/reduced €4/2; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, from 1.30pm Sun)

This gallery's paintings are wonderfully displayed over four floors of the 16th-century Palazzo Spinola, once owned by the Spinola family, one of Genoa's most formidable dynasties. The main focus is Italian and Flemish Renaissance art of the so-called Ligurian School (look out for Van Dyck, Rubens and Strozzi), but it's also worth visiting to gape at the decorative architecture.

Palazzo DucaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palazzoducale.genova.it; Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 9; price varies by exhibition; hhours vary)

Once the seat of the independent republic, this grand palace was built in the Mannerist style in the 1590s and was largely refurbished after a fire in the 1770s. Today it hosts high-profile temporary art exhibitions, several smaller galleries and occasional markets in its lofty atrium. The palazzo also has a bookshop and cafe.

Chiesa del GesùCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Giacomo Matteotti; h4.30-7pm)

Half-hidden behind the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo but emulating it in its ecclesial brilliance, this former Jesuit church dating from 1597 has an intricate and lavish interior. The wonderfully frescoed walls and ceiling are anchored by two works by the great Dutch artist Rubens. Circoncisione (Circumcision) hangs over the main altar, and Miracoli di San Ignazio is displayed in a side chapel.

Porto AnticoAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.portoantico.it; c)

The port that once controlled a small empire is now one of the most popular places to enjoy a passeggiata (evening stroll). Super yacht–fanciers are particularly well catered for and those with kids will love the aquarium, the futuristic Bigo (lookout), the small public swimming pool and the pirate ship.

Piazza de FerrariPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Genoa's fountain-embellished main piazza is ringed by magnificent buildings that include the art nouveau Palazzo della Borsa, which was once the country's stock exchange, and the hybrid neoclassical-modernist Teatro Carlo Felice, bombed in WWII and not fully rebuilt until 1991.

2Activities

Genoa-Casella RailwayRAIL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ferroviagenovacasella.it; one way €4.50, family one way/return €20)

Spectacular views of Genoa's forts can be seen from this 1929 narrow-gauge railway, which snakes 25km north from the cute Stazione Genova to the village of Casella in the Valle Scrivia. Stazione Genova is 1.3km north of Stazione Brignole: it's 15 minutes by foot or you can catch bus 33.

Ring of FortsWALKING

(www.visitgenoa.it; €14)

The tourist office organises this four-hour walking tour to the city's 'new walls' – built in the 1600s – and its ring of forts, with an expert guide. As well as these evocative historical structures, there are amazing views and protected mountain flora to be seen along the way. Tours leave at 9.15am and run monthly; check the website for dates and details.

Piscina Porto AnticoSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %345 298 37 44; www.piscinaportoantico.it; Piazzale Penne; half/full day €6.50/8; h9am-7pm)

Right on the water by the super yachts, this bijou public pool is just the thing if you've not got enough time to escape to the beach. It might not be great for swimming laps but the location is hard to beat.

zFestivals & Events

Slow FishFOOD & DRINK

(http://slowfish.slowfood.it; hMay)SF

Every odd-numbered year in early May, this festival celebrates seafood with a fish market and tastings. Affiliated with the Slow Food movement, it also runs free workshops focusing on water pollution, good fishing practices and aquaculture.

Salone Nautico InternazionaleSAILING

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://salonenautico.com; Fiera di Genova; hOct)

One of the world's biggest and best boat shows, with over one thousand boats to covet, including yachts, outboard engines and inflatable boats, and motor boats.

4Sleeping

La SuperbaB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 869 85 89; www.la-superba.com; Via del Campo 12; s/d €80/90; aW)

This lovingly cared-for, well-equipped place at a bargain price has rooms spread over the two top floors of an old palazzo. Top-floor rooms have pretty mansard ceilings and one a tiny terrace with spectacular port and city views (along with the Genovese soundtrack of crosstown traffic). There's also generous lounge and breakfast areas.

Palazzo CambiasoAPARTMENT€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 856 61 88; www.palazzocambiaso.it; Via al Ponte Calvi 6; d €110, apt €120-180; W)

A real attention to design is evident in these rooms and apartments, set on the upper floor of a stately palazzo. The larger ones (sleeping up to six) come with full marble kitchens, long dining tables and laundries, but even the cheapest double is spacious, soothing and has the signature Frette linen.

Hotel Meuble SuisseHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %010 54 11 76; www.meublesuisse.com; 3rd fl, Via XX Settembre 21; s/d €55/70; W)

Clean, uncluttered rooms, service with a smile and your own personal chandelier. What more could you want? Climb the stairs to the 3rd floor of this strapping Genoa building near Stazione Brignole for a bit of faded fin-de-siècle magic.

B&B Palazzo MoraliB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 246 70 27; www.palazzomorali.com; Piazza della Raibetta; s/d €75/85; aW)

Stay in rarefied splendour at this antique-clad B&B near the Porto Antico. On the top two floors of a lofty building, its palatial rooms (some with shared bathroom) are embellished with gold-leafed four-poster beds, gilt-framed mirrors and Genovese art.

Hotel CairoliHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 246 14 54; www.hotelcairoligenova.com; Via Cairoli 14/4; d €65-105, tr €85-125, q €90-150; aiW)

For five-star service at three-star prices, book at this artful hideaway. Rooms, on the 3rd floor of a towering palazzo, are themed on modern artists and feature works inspired by the likes of Mondrian, Dorazio and Alexander Calder. Add in a library, chill-out area, internet point, small gym and terrace, and you have the ideal bolt-hole.

Cheaper rates are also available without breakfast.

The hotel also has several apartments, sleeping up to eight people.

Hotel Cristoforo ColomboHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 251 36 43; www.hotelcolombo.it; Via di Porta Soprana 27; s/d €80/100; W)

A totally charming family-run hotel ideally situated near Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, Cristoforo Colombo has 18 colour-accented rooms with eclectic furnishings. Breakfast is served on an inviting 6th-floor rooftop terrace.

oPalazzo GrilloDESIGN HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 247 73 56; www.hotelpalazzogrillo.it; Piazza delle Vigne 4; d €160-250; aW)

Genovese locals Matteo and Laura have created the extraordinary place to stay that Genoa has been crying out for in a once derelict palazzo. Stunning public spaces are dotted with spot-on contemporary design pieces, character-filled vintage finds and – look in any direction – original 15th-century frescoes. Rooms are simple but super stylish with Vitra TVs and high ceilings.

Best of all, most of the entire 2nd floor is given over to a private guest salon, where you can lounge around by the windows overlooking the piazza, browse the art and design library, or just gaze at the befrescoed walls.

Le NuvoleBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 251 00 18; www.hotellenuvole.it; Piazza delle Vigne 6; d €130-160; aiW)

A lovely small hotel where smart modern furniture and slick bathrooms make the most of an ancient palazzo's original architecture and its knockout lofty ceilings, lovingly restored plaster mouldings and beautiful tilework. Owners are hands-on and helpful; breakfast is taken in the beautiful rooftop space at neighbouring Palazzo Grillo.

Locanda di Palazzo CicalaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 251 88 24; www.palazzocicala.it; Piazza San Lorenzo 16; d/ste €150/195; aiW)

In stark contrast to its grand 18th-century stucco exterior, the six minimalist rooms include pieces by Jasper Morrison and Philippe Starck. Great stuff, but don't expect TLC and do make sure you get a firm confirmation of where exactly you'll sleep, as guests are often palmed out to adequate but far less appealing apartments in the surrounding streets.

Quarto PianoB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %348 7426779; www.quarto-piano.it; Piazza Pellicceria 2/4; d/ste €130/165; aW)

Four elegant, cosy modern rooms share the 4th floor here, complete with a terrace for breakfast or a hot tub dip.

5Eating

La Botega Del GustoLIGURIAN€

(Vico Superiore del Ferro 3; dishes €4-8.50; h11.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

Genovese fast food done in the most authentic, and moreish, of ways can be had at this backstreet hole in the wall. Come for a quick and easy plate of pansotti (filled pasta with wild greens), pesto pasta, quiche-like spinach-and-artichoke torta, baked rabbit or steamed salt cod.

Pane e TulipaniBAKERY€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 817 88 41; Via dei Macelli di Soziglia 75; pizza €6.50; h6am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Hectic times rule at this poetically named bakery: everyone wants what they're selling. Drop by any time for one of their several varieties of focaccia or make a Saturday date when there are two drops (10.30am and 3.30pm) of half-price pizza margherita, a steal at €6.50. Their kamut loaves and breads from other ancient grains are also worth trying.

RoosterFAST FOOD€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 899 69 14; Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 41; sandwiches €6-8; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

A cute little hole in the wall place that breathes new life into the traditional rotisserie chicken. Birds are all free range and local; buy them whole for a picnic or eat in for one of their special panino, which may come with grilled peppers, as a schnitzel or with apple and walnuts.

Gelateria ProfumoGELATO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.villa1827.it; Vico Superiore del Ferro 14; cones from €2.20; hnoon-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

A wonderfully old-fashioned place, with fragrant scoops appearing from under metal-topped vats. The panera (a Genovese coffee-and-cream blend), creamy Sorento lemon and bitter orange flavours are standouts.

Gelateria San LucaGELATO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via San Luca 88; cones from €2; hnoon-7pm)

A selection of beautiful traditional gelato flavours are complemented by a creative menu of semifreddo-filled cups, ice-cream sandwiches and chocolate-coated popsicles. If you have a gelato emergency out of hours, the sweet owner has been known to dish out a mercy cone if you knock and ask nicely.

Trattoria Da MariaTRATTORIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 58 10 80; Vico Testadoro 14r; meals €10-18; h11.45am-3pm Mon-Sat, 7-9.30pm Thu & Fri)

Brace yourself for lunchtime mayhem. This is a totally authentic, if well touristed, workers' trattoria and there's much squeezing into tiny tables, shouted orders and a fast and furious succession of plates plonked on tables. A daily hand-scrawled menu is a roll call of elemental favourites that keep all comers full and happy, along with the jugs of ridiculously cheap wine.

Cross your fingers you're there on a minestrone alla Genovese, pesto lasagne or donkey ragù day – pure Ligurian bliss. Dinner hours are slightly less hectic, but still fun.

Focaccia e DintorniBAKERY€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Canneto Il Curto 7-8; focaccia from €1; h7am-8pm)

Punt a football anywhere in Genoa and you’re bound to hit somewhere that sells focaccia. This focacceria sells a huge range of focaccia slices, pizza, farinata and sweet treats.

MangiabuonoLIGURIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Vico Vegetti 3; meals €19-23; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Mon-Sat)

While there are photos of the NZ All Blacks team enjoying a slap-up meal here (Genoa is Italy's great rugby city), this remains one of the city's fabulously unfancy trattorias. Come and eat the glorious staples: pesto lasagna, corzetti (disc-shaped pasta) with salsa di noce (walnut sauce), rabbit stew or simply done seafood.

oTrattoria RosmarinoTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 251 04 75; www.trattoriarosmarino.it; Salita del Fondaco 30; meals €32-38; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

Rosmarino cooks up the standard local specialities, yes, but the straightforwardly priced menu has an elegance and vibrancy that sets it apart. With two nightly sittings, there's always a nice buzz (though there are also enough nooks and crannies that a romantic night for two isn't out of the question). Call ahead for an evening table.

La BerloccaTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 796 33 33; www.laberlocca.com; Via Soziglia 45r; meals €30; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

On one of the old city's nicest streets, this one-time farinata shop has a hand-written menu of Ligurian standards – tripe, stockfish with pine nuts and potatoes – as well as fresh and inventive dishes like smoked gnocchi. Lunch deals here start at €10 and top at €18 for an all-in feast that includes a quarter litre of wine.

Officina 34MODERN ITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 302 71 84; www.officina34.it; Via di Ravecca 34; meals €30; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Genoa is a long way from Berlin or Brooklyn, but that urban aesthetic is in full force at Officina 34. Subway tile jokes aside, it's a beautifully fitted-out space in a pretty location, and has a simple, gently innovative menu that shows the kitchen cares about quality ingredients. A young, good-looking crowd come for raw plates and aperitivo and often end up staying late.

Ombre RosseITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 275 76 08; Vico Indoratori 20; meals €35; h12.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 7.45-10.30pm Sat)

Encased in one of the oldest medieval houses in the city, dating from the early 13th century, Ombre Rosse has a dark but romantic interior, full of books, posters and interesting nooks. There's also alfresco seating in a delightful small park opposite (one of the few in Genoa's dense urban grid) not to mention good Ligurian dishes and thoughtful service.

oIl MarinSEAFOOD€€€

(Eataly Genova; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 869 87 22; www.eataly.net; Porto Antico; meals €50; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm)

Eating by the water often means a compromise in quality, but Eataly's 3rd-floor fine-dining space delivers both panoramic port views and Genoa's most innovative seafood menu. Rustic wooden tables, Renzo Piano–blessed furniture and an open kitchen make for an easy, relaxed glamour, while dishes use unusual Mediterranean-sourced produce and look gorgeous on the plate.

This is the destination restaurant the city has long needed. Book ahead.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LIGURIAN FOOD

Pesto: a viridian green blend of basil leaves, pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil and, later, Parmesan. Garlic is controversial with some swearing it’s not pesto without it, while others claim it’s an upstart addition – if you buy a fresh tub in the supermarket, it comes both with or without.

Focaccia: the ubiquitous olive-oil-laden bread, sold in squares; variations include those topped with sweet onion or stuffed with straccino cheese.

Farinata: a chickpea flour pancake, like the Niçoise panisse and socca; usually made in dedicated shops where you can buy by the slice, though often found on restaurant menus, too.

Polpettone: yes, this sounds like meatballs, but is in fact totally meat-free, rather a bubble-and-squeak like slice of potato, green beans or other seasonal vegetables and eggs, scented with marjoram, baked and topped with breadcrumbs and cheese.

Corzetti: handmade disc-shaped pasta, often embossed with a stamp and traditionally 'flavoured' with a few drops of the local white wine, Pigato.

Salsa di noce: a pesto-like pasta sauce made from ground walnuts, olive oil, garlic and soaked bread as a thickener; usually served either with corzetti or with ravioli filled with bitter wild greens.

Torta pasqualina: an Easter-time special that’s also served year-round, a quiche-like mix of eggs, cheese and sautéed spring artichokes baked in a short pastry crust.

Minestrone: a vegetable and pulse soup that’s not a wholely Ligurian dish, but one that the region has made its own by omitting the tomatoes and adding a dollop of pesto which it's then cooked in.

Cappon magro: a celebratory layered salad of eggs, green beans, celery and other vegetables on top of dry olive oil biscuits and topped with lobster, prawns and other seafood, as well as green olives and artichokes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Aperitivo spritzes can be had anywhere, but never underestimate the lure of the caruggi (narrow lanes) later on. You'll find a number of new drinking spots intermingled with old-time favourites throughout the city, particularly in the streets just northwest of Piazza de Ferrari. Piazza delle Erbe pulls the city's young for cheap and cheerful aperitivi and occasionally gets rowdy well into the night.

oCantine MatteottiWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 868 70 00; www.facebook.com/Cantine-Matteotti; Archivolto Baliano 4-6/r; h5pm-1am Tues-Sun)

The Puccini wafting up the laneway gives you some clue that this is a special little place. The owners here have a passion for good music and for good wine, and will pour you some amazing local drops and stave off your hunger with a plate of fresh raw broad beans and Sardinian cheese or a beer tartare made before your eyes.

oLes RougesCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 246 49 56; www.lesrouges.it; 1st fl, Piazza Campetto 8a; h5.30-11pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 12.30am Fri & Sat)

One of Genoa's surfeit of crumbling palazzi is being put to excellent use in this atmospheric cocktail bar. Three bearded, vest-wearing, red-headed brothers – the 'rouges' of the name – man the floor and shake up one of the city's only new-wave cocktails, using top-shelf ingredients and herbal or floral flavours such as chamomile and kaffir lime.

Bar Gio.SiBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Canneto il Lungo 78; h5pm-2am Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat)

If you've been yearning for some late-night drinking fun, this antica-is-the-new-black place is your answer. A completely untouched old-school backstreet bar, along with its elderly owners, have become the darlings of the city's cool kids, who come to throw back €3 negronis or the totally local asinello – a somewhat challenging local fortified wine that's the princely sum of €1 a spritz.

Enoteca PesceWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sottoripa; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Tiny wine bars dot Genoa's old city, although this one, under the arches by the port, is particularly characteristic and full of colourful locals. They are serious about their wine, though glasses hover around the €2 mark so it's a good place to get to know Liguria's unusual grapes.

Cavo CafeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cavoristorante.it; Via Falamonica 9; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat)

Admire the exquisite 17th-century frescoes of Bernardo Strozzi while sipping on your aperitivo spritz or wine in this spectacular bar-cafe (it also serves lunch and dinner) encased in an old Doria palace. For somewhere so elegantly storied, staff are friendly and welcoming and while you'll pay a (gentle) premium for drinks, a meal-sized plate of savoury delights is served to your table.

Fratelli KlaingutiCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via di Soziglia; h8am-8pm)

Pre-dating cappuccinos, Klainguti opened in 1828 and its Mittel European charms, and presumably its strudel and pastries, had Verdi and Garibaldi coming back for more. Waiters in bow ties toil under an impressive chandelier and the decor is a fabulous, if tatty, mid-century historical pastiche.

Café degli SpecchiCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Salita Pollaiuoli 43r; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat)

A bit of Turin disconnected and relocated 150km to the south, this tiled art deco showpiece was (and is) a favourite hang-out of Genoa's intellectuals. You can sink your espresso at street level or disappear upstairs among the velvet seats and mirrors for coffee, cake and an aperitivo buffet.

Scurreria Beer & BagelBEER HALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://scurreria.com; Via di Scurreria 22r; h6pm-2am)

A little bit of Brooklyn or Melbourne in the caruggi, this brewpub packs out with Genoa's black-clad young. There are two taps of local and imported beers and an extensive by-the-bottle list. And, yes, they do bagels, stuffed in a way that only an Italian can do, along with other belly-liners.

3Entertainment

Teatro Carlo FeliceTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 538 12 24; www.carlofelice.it; Passo Eugenio Montale 4)

Genoa's stunning four-stage opera house with a seasonal opera program that's worth booking ahead for.

Giardini LuzzatiARTS CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.giardiniluzzati.it; Piazzetta Rostango)

A multi-function alternative space that hosts live music, street festivals, archaeological walks, debates, workshops and other performances. A full program can be found online, or just drop by for a weekend beer and see what's on.

7Shopping

oVia Garibaldi 12HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 253 03 65; www.viagaribaldi12.com; Via Garibaldi 12; h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sat)

Even if you're not in the market for designer homewares, it's worth trotting up the noble stairs just to be reminded how splendid a city Genoa can be. There's an incredibly canny collection of contemporary furniture and objects, as well as 'interventions' by contemporary artists such as Damian Hirst and Sterling Ruby, with works occasionally loaned from New York's Gagosian gallery.

Lipstick VintageVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 247 42 56; www.facebook.com/LipstickGenova; Via 25 Aprile 62; h4-7.30pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

A treasure trove of upmarket vintage fashion with pieces from classic Italian designers such as Ferragamo, Prada, Pucci and Gucci, with some fashion-forward pieces from internationals such as Vivienne Westwood and YSL. If you're on a budget or like a bargain, check out their discount back rooms where you can uncover Milanese fashion house samples and beautiful dressmaker items.

Mimì e CocòCHILDREN'S CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 403 32 97; www.mimi-coco.it; Piazza del Ferro 21; h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

A wonderful find in a country increasingly dominated by big budget labels, everything here is handmade in Genoa. Smocks, shirts, shorts, cardigans and playsuits for babies to five-year-olds are crafted from natural fibres, and their simple, traditional cuts also have a very contemporary appeal.

Butteghetta Magica di Tinello DanielaHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 247 42 25; Via della Maddalena 2; h3-7pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sat)

Stock your kitchen from a selection of brightly glazed traditional ceramics and beautiful contemporary kitchenware. This is also the place to buy a corzetti, a carved wooden stamp that is used to make a local pasta speciality of the same name. If you're here during the Christmas season, the 'magica' of the title comes into play with spectacular nativity scenes to admire.

Pasticceria ProfumoPASTRIES, CHOCOLATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.villa1827.it; Via del Portello 2; h9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

A traditional pasticceria and chocolate shop that follows the seasons – chocolate, chestnuts and cream dominate in winter, fresh stone fruit and berries in summer – this is also one of Genoa's most pretty, with bright, stylish packaging that makes for fantastic take-home gifts.

Pietro Romanengo fu StefanoCHOCOLATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.romanengo.com; Via Soziglia 74r; h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 3.15-7.15pm Tue-Sat)

An intriguing historic chocolate shop (established 1780) that specialises in candied flowers and floral waters: it really does feel as if nothing has changed since long before the Risorgimento.

8Information

Ticket BoothsBOOKING SERVICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ponte Spinola; h9.30am-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 9am-8pm Jul & Aug)

Information and tickets for boat trips around the port and destinations further afield are available from the ticket booths beside the aquarium at Porto Antico.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %010 557 29 03; www.visitgenoa.it; Via Garibaldi 12r; h9am-6.20pm)

Helpful office in the historic centre.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Regular domestic and international services, including Ryanair flights to London Stansted, use Cristoforo Colombo Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6 01 51; www.airport.genova.it), 6km west of the city in Sestri Ponente.

The airport service, AMT Volabus (%848 000 030; www.amt.genova.it; one-way €6), runs hourly between 5.15am and 10.10pm to the airport, 5.50am to 11.05pm from the airport. It departs from Stazione Principe, with a stop also in Piazza de Ferrari. Tickets can be bought from the driver and include a 60-minute window of use on other public transport.

A taxi to or from the airport will cost around €20 to €30.

Boat

From June to September, Golfo Paradiso SNC ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.golfoparadiso.it) operates boats from Porto Antico to Camogli (one way/return €10/16), Portofino (€12/20) and Porto Venere (€20/35).

Consorzio Liguria Via Mare ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.liguriaviamare.it) runs a range of seasonal trips to Camogli, San Fruttuoso and Portofino; Monterosso in Cinque Terre; and Porto Venere.

Only cruise ships use the 1930s Ponte dei Mille terminal while ferries sailing to Spain, Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, Morocco and Tunisia use the neighbouring international passenger terminals ( GOOGLE MAP ) or the Terminal Traghetti (Ferry Terminal; GOOGLE MAP ; Via Milano 51).

Fares listed here are for one-way, high-season deck-class tickets. Ferry operators include the following:

Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV; GOOGLE MAP ; %010 209 45 91; www.gnv.it) Ferries to Sardinia (Porto Torres, €78) and Sicily (Palermo, €85). Also to Barcelona (Spain, €85) and Tunis (Tunisia, €120).

Moby Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %199 30 30 40; www.mobylines.it) Ferries year-round to the Sardinian ports of Olbia (€55) and Porto Torres (€50).

Tirrenia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %89 21 23; www.tirrenia.it) To/from Sardinia (Porto Torres €55; Olbia from €50).

Train

Genoa's Stazione Principe and Stazione Brignole are linked by very frequent trains to Milan (€13.45, 1½ hours), Pisa (€15.20, two hours), Rome (€51.50, five hours) and Turin (€12.40, 1¾ hours).

Stazione Principe tends to have more trains, particularly going west to San Remo (€114, two hours, five daily) and Ventimiglia (€16.10, 2¼ hours, six daily).

8Getting Around

AMT (www.amt.genova.it) operates buses throughout the city and there is an AMT information office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via d'Annunzio 8; h7.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun) at the bus terminal. Bus line 383 links Stazione Brignole with Piazza de Ferrari and Stazione Principe. A ticket valid for 90 minutes costs €1.50. Tickets can be used on main-line trains within the city limits, as well as on the metro (www.genovametro.com).

Riviera di Levante

Beyond Genoa's claustrophobic eastern sprawl, this narrow strip of coast between the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean and the ruggedly mountainous Ligurian hinterland ishome to some of Italy's most elite resorts, including jet-set favourite Portofino and the gently faded Santa Margherita. Anything but off the beaten track, this glittering stretch of coast is hugely popular, but retains pockets of extreme natural beauty and profound authenticity.

Nervi

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A former fishing village engulfed by Genoa's urban sprawl, modern Nervi serves as Genoa's summer playground with a string of resort-style beach clubs and seasonal bars along the waterfront. Its bounty of museums and galleries, and the 2km cliffside promenade, the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, make for a pleasant, evocative day trip, whatever the season.

oWolfsonianaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.wolfsoniana.it; Via Serra Gropallo 4; adult/reduced €5/4; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun summer, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun winter)

Some 18,000 items from the period 1880–1945 are displayed in the Wolfson Collection, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, decorative arts, propaganda, everyday objects and industrial design. Absolute eye-candy for 20th-century design and interiors fans, they also form an incredibly rich, and sometimes troubling, document of post-Risorgimento Italy's cultural complexity.

Galleria d'Arte ModernaGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Capolungo 3; adult/reduced €5/4; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun summer, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun winter)

This museum, set in the 16th-century Villa Saluzzo, displays the former Prince Odone di Savoia's collection, mostly works by 19th- and early-20th-century artists such as futurist Fortunato Depero, semi-official fascist sculptor Arturo Martini and the lyrical eccentric Filippo De Pisis.

Museo Giannettino LuxoroMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Mafalda di Savoia 3; adult/reduced €5/4; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat)

This early-20th-century villa has a huge collection of decorative objects: 18th-century clocks, silverware, ceramics and furniture. Don't expect modern lines – the cliffside former holiday home was built in a Historicist style specifically to house the collection.

Bagni Blue MarlinSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 6413692; Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi 25; snacks €10-15, meals €20-30; h10am-9pm April-Sep)

Part natural rock formation, part whitewashed concrete, this little place juts right out into the Med, making for an utterly magical spot to spritz a sunset away or snaffle up snap-fried anchovies in a paper cone. It morphs from daytime bathing spot into a restaurant and laid-back beach bar as the sun sets.

Camogli

%0185 / Pop 5450

Camogli, 25km east of Genoa, is most famous for its sheer number of trompe l'œil villas, its photogenic terraced streets winding down to a perfect cove of pebble beach amid a backdrop of umbrella pines and olive groves. While tourists flock to Portofino, this is where many of northern Italy's intellectuals and creatives have their summer apartments. Still, as pretty as the town is, it remains a working fishing hub – the town's name means 'house of wives', hailing from the days when the womenfolk ran the show while the husbands were away at sea. Come the second weekend in May, the town celebrates its maritime heritage with the Sagra del Pesce (Fish Festival) and a huge fish fry – hundreds are cooked in 3m-wide pans along the waterfront.

2Activities

Punta ChiappaSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.golfoparadiso.it; hboats hourly in summer, 3-5 times per day rest of year)

From the main esplanade, Via Garibaldi, boats sail to the Punta Chiappa (one way/return €6/11), a rocky outcrop on the Portofino promontory where you can swim and sunbathe like an Italian. By sea it's a 5-minute trip; otherwise it's an easy 3km walk along the trail that begins at the end of Via San Bartolomeo.

San Rocco TrailWALKING

A trail from the train station leads along Via Nicolò Cuneo and up countless steps to the church of San Rocco di Camogli: follow the two red dots. From here the path continues 3km to the clifftop battery, a WWII German anti-aircraft gun emplacement.

4Sleeping

La Rosa BiancoB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 66 66; www.larosabiancodiportofino.com; Via Mortola 37; d €110-135; pi)

Gorgeously sited on the slopes of San Rocco di Camogli, inside the Portofino park amid olive and lemon trees, La Rosa Bianco is a genuine B&B in the home of Marco and Laura. Rooms are furnished in a friendly, family style with plenty of personal touches, while breakfast is served in the old mill room with its enormous grinding stone.

oVilla RosmarinoB&B€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 15 80; www.villarosmarino.com; Via Figari 38; d €230-290; hMar-Nov; paWs)

Villa Rosmarino's motto is 'you don't stay, you live' and it's apt. Simply taking in the views here is life affirming. This elegant pink 1907 villa is a typical Ligurian beauty on the outside, a calming oasis of modernity on the inside.

Mario and Fulvio's collection of 20th-century furniture and contemporary artworks is scattered throughout the lounge, library and light-filled rooms. Despite the haute design credentials, there's a sensual warmth to it all. Even breakfasts – taken around the dining table – pop with colour and texture. The setting is sublimely tranquil but Camogli's bustle, and the beach, is just a 15-minute walk down a picturesque lane. Note prices in March and October drop substantially.

Hotel Cenobio dei DogiHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 72 41; www.cenobio.com; Via Cuneo 34; s €195, d €265-375; paWs)

The Cenobio's name means 'gathering place of the doges', and yes, the Genovese dukes used to holiday here aeons ago. A private beach and waterfront saltwater swimming pool signal you're in the Riviera, as do the 105 refined, if old-fashioned, rooms. Note, you'll pay a premium for a sea view.

5Eating & Drinking

RevelloBAKERY€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 07 77; www.revellocamogli.com; Via Garibaldi 183; h8am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7.30pm Sat & Sun)

If you're not on a mission to taste-test every town's focacceria, Revello is a suitably respectable choice if you had to choose just one. Pick up slices of their focaccia di Recco – a slightly flaky variety stuffed with stracchino cheese – or others topped with anchovies, fresh tomatoes and Ligurian olives, or go for the plainer sage or onion topped loaves.

oLa Cucina di Nonna NinaTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 38 55; www.nonnanina.it; Viale Franco Molfino 126, San Rocco di Camogli; meals €35-50; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue)S

In the leafy heights of San Rocco di Camogli you’ll find the only Slow Food–recommended restaurant along the coast, named for grandmother Nina, whose heirloom recipes have been adapted with love by Paolo Delphin. Your culinary odyssey will include fabulous traditional dishes such as air-dried cod stewed with pine nuts, potatoes and local Taggiasca olives, and rossetti (minnow) and artichoke soup.

Da PaoloSEAFOOD, LIGURIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 35 95; www.ristorantedapaolocamogli.com; Via San Fortunato 14; meals €40-48; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun, 7.30-10.30pm Tue)

Up a back lane from the waterfront, stylish Da Paolo has the town's best fish and seafood, all fresh off the boats and done in a variety of simple local styles. Order fish by the etto (100g) or plates of scampi or squid. Pastas include a fabulous fish ravioli.

La MancinaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via al Porto Camogli; h5pm-2am Thu-Tue)

A couple of stools outside will give you a sea view, but the real action here is inside, where books line the walls and locals chat with the welcoming owner over spritzes or local wines.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 10 66; www.camogliturismo.it; Via XX Settembre 33; h9.15am-12.15pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat, from 10am Mon, 9.15am-12.15pm Sun)

Has a list of diving schools and boat-rental operators.

8Getting There & Away

Camogli is on the Genoa–La Spezia train line, with regular connections to Santa Margherita (€2.55, five minutes), Rapallo (€2.55, 10 minutes) and Genoa (€3.60, 45 minutes).

The Golfo Paradiso SNC ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 77 20 91; www.golfoparadiso.it; Via Piero Schiaffino 14) runs boats year-round to Punta Chiappa (one way/return €6/11) and San Fruttuoso (€9/14). Between April and September there are services to Genoa's Porto Antico (€15/23), Portofino (€11/19) and Cinque Terre (€20/31).

WORTH A TRIP

SAN FRUTTUOSO

San Fruttuoso is a slice of ancient tranquillity preserved among some of Italy's busiest coastal resorts. Its blissful isolation means you have only two transport options: foot or sea.

Come here with the lucky Ligurians to swim, sunbake and eat a seafood lunch in the sun. You can also wander the hamlet's sensitively restored Benedictine abbey. The Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitfai.it/sanfruttuoso; adult/reduced €6.50/3; h10am-5.45pm summer, to 3.45pm winter) was built as a final resting place for Bishop St Fructuosus of Tarragona, martyred in Spain in AD 259, then rebuilt in the mid-13th century with the assistance of the Doria family. The abbey fell into decay with the decline of the religious community; by the 19th century it was divided into small living quarters. Today it has a calm simplicity and its charming everyday collection of ancient monkish things feels touchingly close and human. It's also the only place you can sleep here. One rustic apartment, the Casa de Mar (Foresteria dell'Abbazia; GOOGLE MAP ; %041 522 24 81; www.landmarktrust.org.uk/italia; 4-bed apmt 4-nights €785), is located within the Abbey compound. Once the last boat leaves you're pretty much alone; basic pantry items are provided, although nightly meals can be arranged in advance with one of the beach-side restaurants. There's a thrilling sense of isolation, unbroken silence and gentle beauty. Bookings are done via email only (four-night minimum) or through the English Landmark organisation.

Walk in from Camogli (a tricky, rocky hike with metal hand supports) or Portofino, a steep but easier 5km cliffside walk. Both hikes take about 2½ hours one way. Alternatively, you can catch a boat from Camogli (one way/return €9/14), Punta Chiappa (€6/11) and, in summer, Genoa (€12/21).

Portofino

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Even the trees are handsome in Portofino, a small but perfectly coiffured coastal village that sits on its own peninsula, seemingly upping the exclusivity factor by mere geography. Hotels here are hushed and headily priced, but a drink by Portofino's yacht-filled harbour or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip from Genoa.

1Sights & Activites

Castello BrownCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.castellobrown.com; Via alla Penisola 13a; admission €5; h10am-7pm summer, to 5pm Sat & Sun winter)

A flight of stairs signposted 'Salita San Giorgio' leads from the harbour and past the Chiesa di San Giorgio to Portofino's unusual castle, a 10-minute walk altogether (do confirm it's open with the tourist office before setting out, as the castle often closes for private events). The Genoese-built bulwark saw action against the Venetians, Savoyards, Sardinians and Austrians, and later fell to Napoleon.

Parco Naturale Regionale di PortofinoHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.it/parco.portofino)

The Portofino peninsula's 60km of narrow trails are a world away from the sinuous sports-car-lined road from Santa Margherita. Many of them are absolutely remote and all of them free of charge. The tourist office has maps.

A good but tough day hike (there are super-exposed sections) is the 18km coastal route from Camogli to Santa Margherita via San Fruttuoso and Portofino. There are handy train connections at both ends.

4Sleeping

Eight Hotels ParaggiHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 28 99 61; http://paraggi.eighthotels.it; Via Paraggi a Mare 8; d €480-750; aW)

This low-key hotel has simple, luxurious rooms, but its real appeal is the location. Right on the perfect crescent of Paraggi beach, there's a sense of calm here that can be elusive around the cove in Portofino proper. Such beauty doesn't come cheap, however: rooms with balconies start at €690 per night.

EdenBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 26 90 91; www.hoteledenportofino.com; Vico Dritto 18; s €80-160, d €180-250; pa)

Pretty and unpretentious Eden feels like it slipped out of an EM Forster novel or a grunge fashion spread. Its floral wallpaper residence-hotel appeal is coupled with a great location, 100m up a quiet cobbled side street from the harbour.

5Eating & Drinking

Pizzeria El PorticoPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 26 92 39; Via Roma 21; meals €25; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon)

Wander a block from the harbour and pizzas can be procured for under €10. You can also enjoy dishes such as octopus salad, vongole (clams) and Genovese favourites on chequered tablecloths outside.

Ristorante PunyLIGURIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 26 90 37; Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta; meals €38-45; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Wed-Fri)

Puny's harbourside location is the one you've come to Portofino for and the owners treat everyone like they're a visiting celeb. The food sticks loyally to Ligurian specialities, especially seafood.

Caffè ExcelsiorLIGURIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 26 90 05; www.excelsiorportofino.it; Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta 54; meals €28-35; h8am-11pm Wed-Mon)

A fashionable eatery overlooking the port, Caffè Excelsior is a good perch with romantic outdoor booths – where Greta Garbo used to hide behind dark glasses – serving up octopuses and prawns.

WinteroseWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 207 09 65; www.winteroseportofino.it; Calata Marconi 42; h10am-8pm)

A serious wine shop with simple tables right on the waterfront for your nightly aperitivo. It's a yachties' favourite.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.marinadiportofino.com; Via Roma 35; h10am-6pm summer, 10am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun winter)

Has free trail maps for the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino and information on mountain-bike rental, as well as seasonal sail- and motorboat-rental.

8Getting There & Away

ATP (www.atp-spa.it) bus 882 runs to Portofino from outside the tourist office in Santa Margherita (€1.80, every 30 minutes), but by far the best way is to walk. A designated path tracks the gorgeous coastline for 3km.

From April to October, Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it) runs daily ferries from Portofino to/from San Fruttuoso (one way/return €8.50/12), Rapallo (€9/13) and Santa Margherita (€7/11). Golfo Paradiso (www.golfoparadiso.it) also has a regular service from Camogli (€11/19).

Motorists can only park in the car park at the village entrance, with fees starting from €8 per hour (cash only).

Santa Margherita

%0185 / Pop 10,050

Santa Margherita materialises like a calm Impressionist painting. You wouldn't want to change a single detail of its picture-perfect seaside promenade, where elegant hotels with Liberty facades overlook yachts in this fishing-village-turned-retirement-spot. It's decidedly less bling than Portofino, with some affordable hotel options and a surprisingly workaday town behind the waterfront.

Villa DurazzoVILLA, GARDEN

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.villadurazzo.it; Piazzale San Giacomo 3; h9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm)F

This exquisitely turned-out mansion and gardens, part of a 16th-century castle complex, overlooks the sea. You can take an aromatic stroll among lemon trees, hydrangea and camellia hedges, and other flora typical of the town's mild climate in the lavish Italian gardens, or wander among its recently restored collection of 17th-century paintings.

Santuario di Nostra Signora della RosaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Caprera)

You’ll gasp audibly when entering Santa Margherita’s small yet lavish baroque church, not just at the truly dazzling array of gold leaf, frescoes, chandeliers and stained glass, but also at the sheer serendipity of it being here at all.

oBlu di Te HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 28 71 87; www.bludite.com; Via Favale 30; s/d €250/320; paW)

Once a rambling old Ligurian villa, the Blu di Te now has 20 clean-lined rooms. Colours echo the Ligurian landscape and there is a combination of mid-century classics and more traditional pieces scattered across the hotel. A rooftop terrace overlooks a baroque church and treetops to the blue of the gulf.

Grand Hotel MiramareHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 28 70 13; www.grandhotelmiramare.it; Via Milite Ignoto 30; s/d €310/430; paWs)

The Miramare, which looks back over to the town across the Gulf of Tigullio, feels from another time, the antithesis of vulgarity. Staff are gracious, public spaces are elegant, facilities are plentiful and rooms are soothing. While it's much in the grand European tradition, it also has a friendly, relaxed vibe and a surprisingly youthful clientele, including families.

Pasticceria OnetoCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Partigiani d'Italia 3; cakes from €1.50; h8am-8pm)

Busy pasticceria (pastry shop) and cafe populated by locals who pop in for brioche and seasonal tarts, and linger with an espresso.

L'Altro EdenSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 29 30 56; www.laltro.ristoranteeden.com; Calata del Porto 11; meals €40-55; hnoon-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm & 7-11.30pm Sat & Sun)

A seafood place right on the docks, yes, but this grey-and-white streamlined vaulted space is a maritime kitsch-free zone. Romantic and cosy on colder evenings, outside tables are right by the boats in summer. Fish is done by weight and to order, but they are best known for crudo and risotto with fresh prawns or, in season, squid ink.

8Information

Parco Naturale Regionale di PortofinoTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parks.it/parco.portofino; Viale Rainusso 1; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri)

Maps and information on hiking.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lamialiguria.it; Piazza Vittorio Veneto; h9.30am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Keeps lots of information about water sports along the gulf.

8Getting There & Away

ATP Tigullio Trasporti (www.atpesercizio.it) runs buses to/from Portofino (every 20 minutes) and Camogli (every 30 minutes), both with the Portofino Pass one way/return €4/6.

By train, there are fast hourly services to/from Genoa (€8.50, 30 minutes) and La Spezia (€10, one hour).

Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.traghettiportofino.it) runs seasonal ferries to/from Cinque Terre (one way/return €22.50/34), Porto Venere (€22.50/34), San Fruttuoso (€11/16), Portofino (€8.50/12) and Rapallo (€4.50/5.50).

Rapallo

%0185 / Pop 30,750

WB Yeats, Max Beerbohm and Ezra Pound all garnered inspiration in Rapallo and it's not difficult to see why. With its bright-blue changing cabins, palm-fringed beach and diminutive 16th-century castle perched above the sea, the town has a poetic and nostalgic air. It's at its busiest on Thursdays, when market stalls fill central Piazza Cile.

2Activities

Cable CarCABLE CAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 5 23 41; http://doganaccia2000.it; Piazzale Solari 2; one way/return €7/10; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm)

When you've had your fill of the promenade poseurs, rise above them in a 1934-vintage cable car up to Santuario Basilica di Montallegro (612m), built on the spot where, in 1557, the Virgin Mary was reportedly sighted. Walkers and mountain bikers can follow an old mule track (5km, 1½ hours) to the hilltop site.

4Sleeping

Europa Hotel Design Spa 1877HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 66 95 21; www.gruppoplinio.it/europahotel; Via Milite Ignoto 2; s €95-180, d €160-225; paW)

Close to the beach and with its own spa facilities – a thermal bath and steam room – this recently refurbished place is super relaxing. Whitewashed rooms are pretty but modern while public areas do the shiny Italian glam thing.

5Eating

BansinTRATTORIA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 23 11 19; www.trattoriabansin.it; Via Venezia 105; meals €17-25; hnoon-2pm & 7.15-10.30pm, closed Sun lunch summer & Mon lunch winter)

Ligurian comfort food – salt cod fritters, chickpea soup, spinach-stuffed pasta with walnut sauce, mussels gratin – gets served up here with a minimum of fuss and not just a little bit of love. Lunch menus, with two courses and house wine or water, are €10 or with just a first course and side for €5, and there's a garden courtyard in summer.

ouGiancuOSTERIA, LIGURIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 26 05 05; www.ugiancu.it; Via San Massimo 78; meals €32-45; h7.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue, noon-3pm Sun Dec-Oct)

About 5km inland in the hamlet of San Massimo di Rapallo, this cult restaurant is run by comic-book collector Fausto Oneto, and half of his collection decorates the walls. Away from the coast, the cooking focuses on meat and vegetables, including an incredibly succulent herb-battered suckling lamb with field greens from the kitchen gardens.

Vecchia RapalloSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 5 00 53; www.vecchiarapallo.com; Via Cairoli 20/24; meals €30-45; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-11pm summer, shorter hours winter)

Seafood is the star here, and it's done well with the occasional creative touch. House-made stuffed pastas have particular appeal – snapper ravioli comes with beetroot and prawn sauce, while a chard-filled variety is shaved with truffles. There's a cocktail and wine bar if you're just after a drink, too.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0185 23 03 46; www.lamialiguria.it; Lungomare Vittorio Veneto 7; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Details of walks in the area, plus maps.

Cinque Terre

Set amid some of the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, these five ingeniously constructed fishing villages can bolster the most jaded of spirits. A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997, Cinque Terre isn't the undiscovered Eden it once was but, frankly, who cares? Sinuous paths traverse seemingly impregnable cliffsides, while a 19th-century railway line cut through a series of coastal tunnels ferries the footsore from village to village. Thankfully cars were banned over a decade ago.

Rooted in antiquity, Cinque Terre's five villages date from the early medieval period and while much of this fetching vernacular architecture remains, Cinque Terre's unique historical draw is the steeply terraced cliffs bisected by a complicated system of fields and gardens that have been hacked, chiselled, shaped and layered over the course of nearly two millennia. The extensive muretti (low stone walls) can be compared to the Great Wall of China in their grandeur and scope.

2Activities

Since the 2011 floods, many of Cinque Terre's walking paths have been in a delicate state and prone to periodic or permanent closure. At the time of writing only half of the iconic Sentiero Azzurro was open. However, Cinque Terre has a whole network of spectacular trails and you can still plan a decent village-to-village hike by choosing from any of 30 numbered paths, although bear in mind that this can add quite a few kilometres onto your walk. Check ahead for the most up-to-date trail information at www.parconazionale5terre.it/sentieri_parco.asp.

oSentiero RossoHIKING

Just a few kilometres shy of a full-blown marathon, the 38km Sentiero Rosso (Red Trail; marked No 1 on maps) – which runs from Porto Venere to Levanto – dangles a tempting challenge to experienced walkers who aim to complete it in nine to 12 hours.

For every 100 people you see on the Sentiero Azzurro, there are less than a dozen up here plying their way along a route that is mainly flat, tree-covered and punctuated with plenty of shortcuts. An early start is assured by an efficient train and bus connection to Porto Venere (via La Spezia), while refreshments en route are possible in a liberal smattering of welcoming bars and restaurants.

oSentiero AzzurroWALKING

(Blue Trail; admission with Cinque Terre card)

The Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail; marked No 2 on maps), a 12km old mule path that once linked all five oceanside villages by foot, is Cinque Terre's blue-riband hike, narrow and precipitous. The trail dates back to the early days of the Republic of Genoa in the 12th and 13th centuries and, until the opening of the railway line in 1874, it was the only practical means of getting from village to village.

At the time of writing, the path between Riomagiorre and Manarola (the famed via dell'Amore) and that between Manarola and Corniglia were closed and will possibly remain so until at least 2019. Only very experienced and well-equipped hikers should attempt the current alternative route from Manarola to Corniglia via Volastra.

THE CINQUE TERRE CARD

The best way to get around Cinque Terre is with a Cinque Terre card.

Two versions of the card are available: with or without train travel. Both include unlimited use of walking paths and electric village buses, as well as cultural exhibitions. The basic one-/two-day card for those aged over four years costs €7.50/14.50. With unlimited train trips between the towns, the card costs €12/23. A one-day family card for two adults and two children (under 12) costs €31.50/19.60 with/without train travel.

Both versions of the card are sold at all Cinque Terre park information offices and each of Cinque Terre's train stations. For those not interested in hiking, an all-day train ticket between villages is also good value at €4.

8Information

Parco Nazionale OfficesTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.parconazionale5terre.it; h8am-8pm summer, 8.30am-12.30pm & 1-5pm winter)

Offices in the train stations of all five villages and La Spezia station; has comprehensive information about hiking trail closures.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

In summer the Golfo Paradiso SNC (%0185 77 20 91; www.golfoparadiso.it) runs boats to Cinque Terre from Genoa (one way/return €21/36). Seasonal boat services to/from Santa Margherita (€22.50/34) are handled by the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it).

Car & Motorcycle

Private vehicles are not allowed beyond village entrances and during high volume days roads between villages can be closed. If you're arriving by car or motorcycle, you'll need to pay to park in designated car parks (€12 to €25 per day) though these are often full. In some villages, minibus shuttles depart from the car parks (one way/return €1.50/2.50) – park offices have seasonal schedules.

Train

Between 6.30am and 10pm, one to three trains an hour trundle along the coast between Genoa and La Spezia, stopping at each of Cinque Terre's villages (Trenitalia has renamed its usual service the Cinque Terre Express in summer). Unlimited 2nd-class rail travel between Levanto and La Spezia is covered by the Cinque Terre Train card (one/two day €16/29), or you can buy a €4 ticket for travel between any two villages. The IC train from La Spezia is €8-10 one way; the slower regional €3.10.

Monterosso

%0187 / Pop 1550

The most accessible village by car and the only Cinque Terre settlement to sport a proper stretch of beach, the westernmost Monterosso is the least quintessential of the quintet. The village, known for its lemon trees and anchovies, is delightful. Split in two, its new and old halves are linked by an underground tunnel burrowed beneath the blustery San Cristoforo promontory.

1Sights & Activites

Convento dei CappucciniCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Salita San Cristoforo)

Monterosso's most interesting church and convent complex is set on the hill that divides the old town from the newer Fegina quarter. The striped church, the Chiesa di San Francesco, dates from 1623 and has a painting attributed to Van Dyck (Crocifissione) to the left of the altar. The convent welcomes casual visitors but also has a program of spiritual retreats and workshops.

Monterosso to Santuario della Madonna di SovioreWALKING

From Via Roma in the village, follow trail 9 up through forest and past the ruins of an old hexagonal chapel to an ancient paved mule path that leads to Soviore, Liguria's oldest sanctuary dating from the 11th century. Here you'll find a bar, restaurant and views as far as Corsica on a clear day. It's a two-hour trip.

4Sleeping

Hotel La SpiaggiaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 75 67; www.laspiaggiahotel.com; Via Lungomare 98; d €175-195; aW)

Welcoming La Spiaggia is right on Monterosso’s spiaggia (beach) and its 20 largish rooms are popular – book early (up to six months in advance). If you don't get lucky with the fabulous views of the sea-facing rooms, console yourself with a back one with terraces instead. The 1st floor rooms have been recently refurbished.

La PoesiaB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 72 83; www.lapoesia-cinqueterre.com; Via Genova 4; d €170; aW)

Shoehorned up a backstreet in the older part of town, La Poesia's three rooms occupy an early-17th-century house, where breakfast is served on a terrace surrounded by lemon trees. It's very old-fashioned but it remains open over the winter.

oLa Sosta di Ottone IIIBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 45 02; www.lasosta.com; Località Chiesanuova 39, Levanto; d €220-250; hApr-Oct; pW)

Up in the hills between the beautiful, almost Cinque Terre, beach town of Levanto and Monterosso, La Sosta di Ottone III is a lovely hideaway that's also in prime position for striking out to Cinque Terre by foot or car. The owners have revitalised a village house with extreme attention to detail that also feels effortless.

Six rooms all have delicious hill and sea views but each is different. Four have rich painterly tones and beams, two are airy and minimal. Everything here is hyper-local, from the beautiful patchwork curtains in the lobby made of local damask and the Chiavari chairs to other antiques and even the marble used in the stylish, sexy bathrooms. You can eat here too – there's a perfectly sited small restaurant that serves simple but carefully prepared Ligurian classics.

Hotel PasqualeHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 74 77; www.hotelpasquale.it; Via Fegina 4; s/d/tr €170/255/340; hMar-Nov; aW)

Offering soothing views and 15 unusually stylish, modern guest rooms, this friendly seafront hotel is built into Monterosso's medieval sea walls. To find it, exit the train station and go left through the tunnel towards the centro storico (historic centre). Room prices drop outside the main summer months to a far more reasonable €140 for a double.

5Eating

Trattoria da OscarTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Vittorio Emanuele 67; meals €25-30; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm)

Behind Piazza Matteoti, in the heart of the old town, this vaulted dining room is run by a young, friendly team and attracts a strong local crowd. The town's famed anchovies dominate the menu; whether you go for the standard fried with lemon, with a white wine sauce or deep fried, they are all good. There's some lovely laneway tables too. No credit cards.

Ristorante BelvedereSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 70 33; www.ristorante-belvedere.it; Piazza Garibaldi 38; meals €30; hnoon-3pm & 6.15-10.30pm Wed-Mon)

With tables overlooking the beach, this unpretentious seafood restaurant is a good place to try the local bounty. Start with penne con scampi (pasta tubes with scampi) before diving into a rich zuppa di pesce (fish soup). Or partake of their speciality, the amphora Belvedere, where lobsters, mussels, clams, octopus and swordfish are stewed in a herb-scented broth in traditional earthenware.

MikySEAFOOD€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0187 81 76 08; www.ristorantemiky.it; Lungomare Fegina 104; meals €45-65; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Mon summer)

If you're looking for something a little more elegant than a seafront fry-up, Miky does a seasonal fish menu in a moody, modern dining room. Booking ahead is advised. If you miss out on a table, casual beach-side tables are available at its cantina (wine bar); ask for directions.