CONTENTS
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
List of Illustrations
Introduction
PART I
C
HAPTER
O
NE
In which it is fish day on the
Mary Rose,
anchored in Portsmouth
harbour (Saturday 18 July 1545)
How the trade in Newfoundland salt cod laid the foundations of the Empire
C
HAPTER
T
WO
In which John Dunton eats oatcake and hare boiled in butter in a
Connaught cabin (1698)
How Ireland was planted with English, became a centre of the provisions trade and fed the emerging Empire
C
HAPTER
T
HREE
In which the Holloway family eat maize bread and salt beef
succotash, Sandwich, New England (June 1647)
How the English chased the dream of the yeoman farmer but were forced to compromise
C
HAPTER
F
OUR
In which Colonel James Drax holds a feast at his sugar plantation
on the island of Barbados (1640s)
How the West Indian sugar islands drove the growth of the First British Empire
C
HAPTER
F
IVE
In which la Belinguere entertains Sieur Michel Jajolet de la Courbe to
an African-American meal on the west coast of Africa (June 1686)
How West Africa exchanged men for maize and manioc
C
HAPTER
S
IX
In which Samuel and Elizabeth Pepys dine on
pigeons à l’esteuvé
and
boeuf à la mode
at a French eating house in
Covent Garden (12 May 1667)
How pepper took the British to India, where they discovered calicoes and tea
PART II
C
HAPTER
S
EVEN
In which the Latham family eat beef and potato stew, pudding
and treacle, Scarisbrick, Lancashire (22 January 1748)
How the impoverishment of the English rural labourer gave rise to the industrial ration
C
HAPTER
E
IGHT
In which a slave family eat maize mush and possum on
Middleburg plantation, South Carolina (1730s)
How the American colony of South Carolina was built on African rice
C
HAPTER
N
INE
In which Lady Anne Barnard enjoys fine cabin dinners on a
voyage to the Cape of Good Hope (February to May 1797)
How the Empire stimulated the growth of the provisions industry
C
HAPTER
T
EN
In which Sons of Liberty drink rum punch at the Golden Ball Tavern,
Merchants Row, Boston (a cold evening in January 1769)
How rum brought the American colonies together and split Britain’s First Empire apart
PART III
C
HAPTER
E
LEVEN
In which Kamala prepares a meal for her family, near Patna, Bihar
(February 1811)
How the East India Company turned opium into tea
C
HAPTER
T
WELVE
In which Sarah Harding and her family grow fat eating plenty of
good food in Waipawa, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand (29 July 1874)
How hunger drove the explosion of European emigration in the nineteenth century
C
HAPTER
T
HIRTEEN
In which Frank Swannell eats bean stew, bannock and prune
pie in British Columbia (15 November 1901)
How the industrial ration fed those who pushed out the boundaries of empire and processed foods became magical symbols of home
C
HAPTER
F
OURTEEN
In which the Reverend Daniel Tyerman and Mr George Bennet attend
a tea party in Raiatea, the Society Islands (4 December 1822)
How the spread of European provisions colonised taste
PART IV
C
HAPTER
F
IFTEEN
In which diamond miners cook up an iguana curry at a rum shop
in Guyana during the rainy season (1993)
How non-Europeans migrated to work on plantations producing tropical foods for the British
C
HAPTER
S
IXTEEN
In which the Bartons entertain the Wilsons to tea in the
London Road slum district of Manchester (May 1839)
How the wheat for the working-class loaf came to be grown in America and the settler colonies
C
HAPTER
S
EVENTEEN
In which Prakash Tandon enjoys a Sunday roast with his landlady’s
family in a Manchester council house (1931)
How foreign food imports improved the working-class diet and made Britain dependent on its Empire
C
HAPTER
E
IGHTEEN
In which the recipe for irio changes (Kenya, 1900–2016)
How the Empire impacted on subsistence farming in East Africa and introduced colonial malnutrition
C
HAPTER
N
INETEEN
In which infantryman R. L. Crimp eats bully beef and sweet
potatoes in a forward camp in the North African desert
(September 1941)
How the Empire supported Britain during the Second World War
C
HAPTER
T
WENTY
In which Mr Oldknow dreams of making an Empire plum pudding
(24 December 1850) and Bridget Jones attends Una Alconbury’s
New Year’s Day Turkey Curry Buffet Lunch (1 January 1996)
How Christmas fare took the Empire into British homes
Photos
Acknowledgements
About the Author
Notes and References
Bibliography
Index
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