My Belgian friend Anne de Lovinfosse inspired this menu. One day we sat together at the bar at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen and I asked her what here favorite meal was from home. This menu includes some of the dishes we spoke about that afternoon. Mussels and French fries are a classic Belgian pairing and make a wonderful first course. Add a strong Dijon-flavored mayonnaise to dip the fries in and you have a match made in heaven. It might have been more traditional to make waterzooi, a popular chicken and cream stew, or carbonade flamande, sweet-and-sour beef stew made with beer rather than the red wine used in the carbonades of France, but I found a gravy-topped meat loaf and because it was divine, I decided to include it. I hope you will enjoy it! Dessert was a toss-up between crepes, which require no special pan, and Belgium waffles, which require a special pan, so I went for the equipment-easy crepes. Later I made a batch of Belgium waffles in a regular waffle iron and they were great, so I will save them for the next book.
Mussels Steamed in Belgian Beer
MUSSELS STEAMED IN BELGIAN BEER
WITH FRENCH FRIES
You will need a large, deep sauté pan or large braising pan with a lid for steaming the mussels. They will cook best if they fit in a single layer. A little overlap is okay, but make sure they are not piled on top of one another or they won’t have enough room to shake around and open. If necessary, use two pans and add a little more butter and beer.
Try to cook the French fries at the same time the mussels are steaming so they are hot out of the oil when you serve them, though you can keep them in a warm oven briefly. If you want to cheat a little, cut the potatoes into thin matchsticks, fry them until crisp, and cool them in a single layer. They will become like shoestring fries and may be made up 2 hours in advance and served at room temperature. If you are wary of deep-frying, the mussels are also wonderful with grilled bread or garlic bread. And if you want to simplify your menu, the mussels will serve four as a main course. | SERVES 6
1 EGG YOLK
1 TO 2 TABLESPOONS ICE WATER
SEA SALT
PINCH OF FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER (OPTIONAL)
¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
½ TO ¾ CUP OLIVE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
3 SHALLOTS, MINCED, OR 1 SMALL RED ONION, THINLY SLICED
4 POUNDS BLACK MUSSELS, SCRUBBED AND DEBEARDED
1 OR 2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
2 TABLESPOONS COGNAC
1 TO 1½ CUPS BELGIAN OR OTHER WHEAT BEER OR DRY WHITE WINE
1 CUP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
To make the
aioli, in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, 1 tablespoon of the ice water, garlic, salt, and pepper until thick and light. Begin adding the extra virgin olive oil a drop at a time while whisking constantly. As the mixture begins to thicken, begin adding the extra virgin oil in a slow, thin, steady stream while continuing to whisk constantly. When all of the extra virgin oil has been added, begin adding the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, stopping when the egg yolk can absorb no more oil and you have a thick, creamy emulsified sauce. If the sauce begins to break (the oil and egg yolk separate), add a few more drops of ice water. (If you don’t feel like employing so much elbow grease, use a blender, processing the egg yolk, ice water, garlic, salt, and pepper until thick and light and then adding the oils in a thin, steady stream with the motor running.)
To cook the mussels, in a large sauté pan or braising pan, melt the butter over high heat. When the butter is hot, add the shallots and cook, stirring, for a few minutes, until the shallots begin to soften. Add the mussels, garlic, and Cognac and pour in the beer to a depth of about 1 inch. Cover the pan, bring the liquid to a simmer, and cook, shaking the pan back and forth, for about 5 minutes, until the mussels begin to open. Uncover, and when the mussels have opened, add the crème fraîche and parsley, and swirl
to combine. Continue to cook until everything is piping hot. Season with salt and pepper, being conservative with the salt because mussels can be salty.
To serve, pile the fries on a big plate and place in the center of the table. Divide the mussels evenly among deep bowls, being sure to get a nice amount of broth in the bottom of each bowl and discarding any mussels that failed to open. Serve aioli on the side for guests to enjoy as they like. I don’t use it for the mussels. I use it for the fries!
One of the tricks to making great fries is using the right kind of potato. You want a potato with high starch and low sugar, otherwise the sugar in the potato will caramelize and become bitter before the fries are cooked. Winnemucca and Kennebec are two excellent choices and some russet varieties also work well. Although you cannot always know where a potato has been before you buy it, try to purchase potatoes that have not been refrigerated, which can cause the starch to turn to sugar. The other trick is to keep the oil at the correct temperature. If the temperature drops, the fries will be greasy. See
thoughts on deep-frying.
| SERVES 6
5 POUNDS POTATOES, PREFERABLY KENNEBEC OR WINNEMUCCA
PEANUT OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING
SEA SALT
Using a long, sharp knife, cut the unpeeled potatoes lengthwise into slices ½ inch thick. Then cut the slices lengthwise into strips ½ inch wide. In a large bowl, soak the potato strips in water to cover for a few minutes to remove excess surface starch. Drain and dry thoroughly with kitchen towels.
Pour the peanut oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches into a deep, heavy saucepan and heat to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. While the oil is heating, place a wire cake rack over a baking sheet and place them next to the stove.
When the oil is ready, add about 2 handfuls of the fries to the hot oil and fry for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Using a wire skimmer, transfer to the prepared baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining fries, always making sure the oil returns to 375°F before you add a new batch. Serve the fries piping hot, sprinkled with the salt.
WITH SPICY TOMATO GRAVY
In Belgium’s northern region of Flanders, the locals enjoy a wide variety of ground meat dishes, from pâtés and terrines to homey meat loafs that make the child in all of us happy. The meat mixture can also be used to make meatballs or boulettes (small meat patties). When you crave this meat loaf on a simpler menu, serve it with mashed potatoes and your favorite green vegetable. | SERVES 6
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
½ YELLOW ONION (CUT THROUGH THE STEM END), THINLY SLICED INTO CRESCENTS
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 SERRANO CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND SLICED
1 FRESH CAYENNE CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND SLICED (OR OTHER SPICY CHILE OF YOUR LIKING)
¼ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
PINCH OF GROUND CLOVES
½ TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 CUPS
CHICKEN STOCK OR VEAL STOCK OR STORE-BOUGHT REDUCED-SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH
¾ POUND GROUND VEAL
¾ POUND GROUND BEEF
¾ CUP FRESH BREAD CRUMBS
1 EGG, LIGHTLY BEATEN
½ YELLOW ONION, MINCED
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
JUICE OF ½ TO 1 LIME, DEPENDING ON JUICINESS OF LIME
1-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND GRATED
¼ TO ½ TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND GROUND
⅛ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
PINCH OF GROUND CLOVES
½ TO 1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
1 TO 1½ TEASPOONS FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
To make the gravy, in a sauté pan, heat the oil over medium to medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, and both chiles, cover, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onion is caramelized (
see more on caramelizing onions). Go slowly, stir occasionally, and reduce the heat if the garlic starts to brown. Add the tomatoes, re-cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until they begin to break down. Add the cinnamon, cloves, and cumin, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer, until nicely aromatic. Stir in the stock, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook for about 10 minutes, until the liquid in the pan is reduced by half. Remove from the heat. (The gravy may be made up to 2 days ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)
To make the meat loaf, preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients, using the smaller amounts of cumin, salt, and pepper, and mix thoroughly but gently. In a small sauté pan, fry a nugget of the meat mixture, taste, and adjust the seasoning if needed with more cumin, salt, and pepper. Pile the meat mixture into an oval or rectangular baking dish just large enough to accommodate it and have room for the sauce and shape into a loaf. Crosshatch the top of the loaf, and then pour the gravy over and around the loaf.
Bake the meat loaf, basting occasionally with the sauce surrounding it, for 45 to 50 minutes, until cooked through when tested with a thin knife blade. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing, then slice and arrange on a warmed platter to serve. Be sure to serve plenty of gravy with each piece.
Gratin of Belgian Endive and Ham
GRATIN OF BELGIAN ENDIVE AND HAM
My Belgian friend Anne says that in Belgium this gratin is served with mashed potatoes and a green salad for a satisfying and simple supper. It also makes a rich, warming appetizer, portioned at one-half endive per person. In this menu, it plays the role of a hearty side dish. It may be assembled in advance and then baked just before serving, which makes it ideal for entertaining. It also holds well for 5 to 10 minutes in a warm oven if the timing of dinner needs to be adjusted.
This gratin may be baked in a single large dish and then plated for serving or baked in individual dishes. For the latter, I like to use either classic white French porcelain dishes or Spanish earthenware
cazuelas (see headnote for
Roasted Squab).
| SERVES 6
4 TO 6 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
9 HEADS BELGIAN ENDIVE, HALVED LENGTHWISE AND STEM ENDS TRIMMED BUT NOT CORED
JUICE OF ½ LEMON
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
3 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
¼ CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
3 CUPS WHOLE MILK
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG, FOR SEASONING
A FEW DASHES OF TABASCO SAUCE
1½ CUPS GRATED AGED GRUYÈRE CHEESE
6 LARGE SLICES COOKED HAM (SUCH AS BLACK FOREST OR HONEY-CURED)
¼ TO ½ CUP GRATED AGED GRUYÈRE CHEESE
¼ TO ½ CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
In a large sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. When the butter is hot, place the endive halves, cut side down, in the pan and sauté for 5 minutes, until the edges are caramelized. Turn the endive halves and cook, adding some or all of the remaining 2 tablespoons butter if the endives threaten to scorch, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the outer leaves are tender. Season with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until just tender. Remove from the heat and reserve until needed.
To make the
béchamel, in a sauce pan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until aromatic and the raw smell of flour is gone. Do not allow the roux to brown. Slowly pour in the milk while stirring constantly, and then cook, continuing to stir, for 5 to 8 minutes, until thickened to the consistency of thick cream and it coats the back of the spoon. Season with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and Tabasco. Add the Gruyère cheese and stir just until melted. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
To assemble the gratin(s), butter 1 large or 6 small gratin dishes. (The large dish should accommodate the endives, snuggly but not crowded, in a single layer.) Cut the ham slices in half crosswise, and wrap a piece of ham around the center of each endive half. Place the endive halves, cut side up, in the prepared dish(es). Pour the béchamel evenly over the top and sprinkle with the Gruyère and Parmesan. (At this point, the dish may be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 hours before baking.)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake until golden brown and yummy. This could take anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes, or more, depending on how cold everything is when you put the dish(es) in the oven. If everything looks cooked through, but the top is not nicely browned, pop the dish(es) under the broiler (make sure they are broiler safe) for a few minutes to finish caramelizing around the edges. The dish should be hot and bubbling when served.
WITH BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND VANILLA ICE CREAM
The Belgians are serious crepe makers—as serious as their French neighbors—and they are also serious apple growers, making this a perfect dessert for a Belgian menu. I like to serve two crepes per person for this dessert. My dad always rolled crepes, so that is what I tend to do, but they may also be folded into quarters. Even for seasoned professionals, the first crepe often doesn’t work, so don’t get discouraged if this happens. If you have dogs, they will love it.
For a simpler variation, skip the apples and serve the warm crepes with chocolate sauce and ice cream. The crepes and the chocolate sauce may be made ahead. Although the chocolate sauce will keep for up to 2 weeks, I don’t make it too long before I need it because it has a tendency to disappear. | SERVES 6
⅓ CUP ALL-PURPOSE OR WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR
1 CUP WHOLE MILK OR BEER
¼ CUP BRANDY OR COGNAC
3 EGGS
1 TABLESPOON SUGAR
PINCH OF SEA SALT
1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER
UNSALTED BUTTER OR NONSTICK COOKING SPRAY, FOR COOKING
3 TO 5 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
4 TO 6 APPLES, HALVED, PEELED, CORED, AND THICKLY SLICED
6 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
GRATED ZEST AND JUICE OF 1 LEMON
¼ TEASPOON PURE VANILLA EXTRACT
5 OUNCES BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE, FINELY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
2 TABLESPOONS DARK RUM
½ CUP HEAVY CREAM OR WATER
1 QUART PREMIUM VANILLA ICE CREAM
To make the crepe batter, in a bowl, whisk together the flour, milk, brandy, eggs, sugar, salt, and oil until smooth. (Alternatively, whirl the ingredients together in a blender.) If necessary, strain the batter through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any lumps. (The batter may be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours before cooking.)
Heat an 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat and coat it liberally with butter. When the butter is hot, fill a 1½-ounce (3-tablespoon) ladle with batter, lift the pan off of the heat, and starting at the side opposite the handle, slowly pour the batter into the pan, tilting and rotating the pan as you go to get a thin, even layer across the bottom. (You might only need 1 ounce—you want the crepes very thin.) Return the pan to the heat and cook for 1½ to 2 minutes, until the batter is set and the crepe is starting to caramelize in areas on the underside. Using a thin metal spatula or your favorite spatula, turn the crepe and cook for just a moment or two longer on the second side, until cooked but not brown, 30 seconds more. Transfer the crepe to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crepes as they are finished. Cover the stack with a kitchen towel until needed. You should have 12 crepes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking dish.
To prepare the apples, melt 3 tablespoons of
the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter is hot, add the apples and sauté, shaking the pan, for just a minute or two. Sprinkle the sugar over the apples and let the apples caramelize slowly, shaking the pan often, for 6 to 8 minutes. (Depending on how juicy the apples are, you might need to reduce the heat to cook them through and add the remaining butter to properly caramelize them.) When the apples are nicely caramelized, stir in the lemon zest and juice and the vanilla. Remove from the heat.
Fill the crepes with the apples, using about 2 to 3 tablespoons for each crepe and either rolling them or folding them (see at right). Arrange the crepes in the prepared baking dish. (If the crepes are rolled, place them seam side down in the dish.) They should fit in a relatively snug single layer but not be too crowded. Bake for 8 minutes, until hot and golden.
While the crepes are baking, make the chocolate sauce. Pour water to a depth of about 1 inch into a large, shallow pan and bring to a simmer. Place the chocolate, butter, and rum in a heatproof bowl that will sit nicely over the pan with the simmering water. Place over the water and heat, stirring often, until the chocolate and butter are melted and the mixture is smooth. Stir in the cream, remove from the heat, and keep warm. (The sauce may be made up to 1 week ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat in a water bath just before serving.)
To serve, place 2 crepes on each plate and top with a big scoop of ice cream and some warm chocolate sauce.
THE FIRST SIDE OF THE CREPE COOKS LONGER, SINCE THE SECOND SIDE IS JUST FINISHED; AS A RESULT, THE FIRST SIDE HAS NICER COLOR, SO YOU WANT TO ALWAYS PLACE THE FILLING ON THE SECOND SIDE. LAY THE CREPE IN FRONT OF YOU AND SPOON SOME OF THE FILLING ON THE TOP HALF, KEEPING THE FILLING AWAY FROM THE TOP, LEFT, AND RIGHT EDGES. FOLD THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE CREPE UP OVER THE TOP, AND THEN FOLD THE CREPE IN HALF AGAIN, LEFT TO RIGHT. YOU WILL END UP WITH A QUARTER CIRCLE.
LAY THE CREPE IN FRONT OF YOU AND SPOON THE FILLING IN A LINE ACROSS THE CREPE, POSITIONING IT ABOUT ONE-THIRD OF THE WAY ABOVE THE CREPE EDGE NEAREST YOU. KEEP THE FILLING AWAY FROM THE LEFT AND RIGHT EDGES OF THE CREPE. WORKING FROM THE CREPE EDGE NEAREST YOU, ROLL UP THE CREPE AROUND THE FILLING.