I have always been fascinated by the layering of different culinary traditions in a single place, which is why South Africa, a star of the Supper Club, made it into this book. The cuisine is a varied and delicious mix of the foods of the indigenous peoples, the Xhosa and the Zulu, the Sotho and the Tsonga, the Venda and others, and of a long list of colonizers and other settlers, including the Dutch, British, French, Portuguese, German, Malaysian, Indian, Indonesian, and more. The indigenous peoples brought myriad native fruits, nuts, and wild game to the national table, and the newcomers contributed cookery styles, from the stews, breads, and soups of Europe to the curries, pickles, chutneys, and sambals of Asia.
The South African menu here can draw on only a few of these many influences. For example, the hearty bobotie, a curry-spiced ground lamb dish topped with an egg custard, originated with the country’s Indonesian settlers, while the creamy milk tart, a standard at bake sales and afternoon teas, comes from the Dutch community. I could have included a British-style meat pie, an Indian-inspired curry, a German pastry, a Xhosan cornmeal porridge, or many other dishes, but they must wait for another menu.
In South Africa, fresh sweet corn is known as green mealies and grilled corn on the cob is a typical summertime snack. This corn soup is popular throughout the country and is seasoned in many different ways. I decided on mace here, finding that it nicely complemented the natural sweetness of the corn. I have used chicken stock as the base, but if you prefer a vegetarian soup, you can make a quick corn stock: Reserve the corn cobs after stripping them of their kernels. Sweat chopped yellow onion in a little butter or olive oil, add the corncobs and water to cover, and simmer for about 40 minutes, then strain and use in place of the chicken stock. The white wine you use will vary depending on how sweet your corn is; if it’s very sweet, balance it with drier wine. | SERVES 6 TO 8
3 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER OR OLIVE OIL
1 YELLOW ONION OR LEEK (WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY), SLICED
KERNELS FROM 10 TO 12 EARS CORN
2 OR 3 THYME SPRIGS, OR ½ TO 1 TEASPOON DRIED THYME
¼ TEASPOON GROUND MACE, 2 SMALL MACE BLADES, OR A FEW NUTMEG GRATINGS
1 CUP WHITE WINE
1 BAY LEAF
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
PINCH OF SUGAR, IF NEEDED
CHOPPED FRESH CHIVES, FOR GARNISH
In a soup pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot, add the onion, decrease the heat to medium-low, and sweat for about 20 minutes, until tender. Add the corn kernels, thyme, and mace, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and bay leaf and cook until the wine is reduced by half. Add the stock, bring to a boil, and decrease the heat to a simmer. Cook uncovered, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the corn is tender. Remove and discard the bay leaf and thyme sprigs.
At this point, I like to transfer half of the soup to a blender, process it until smooth, and then swirl it back into the soup in the pot. But you may decide to keep it all in the pot or blend it all smooth. Season with salt and pepper and add the sugar if the sweetness level of the corn needs a little help.
Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and garnish with the parsley and chives. Serve right away.
Bobotie
WITH BAKED SWEET POTATOES
This South African comfort food has been compared to moussaka, meat loaf, and English shepherd’s pie, though its origin lies in Southeast Asia, evidenced by the use of curry, turmeric, and fruits. It originally came about on the Cape of Good Hope as a use for leftover roasted meats, but now it is often made from scratch.
Yellow rice (flavored with turmeric, cinnamon, and raisins) is the traditional accompaniment, but I prefer sweet potatoes because the combination reminds me of my mom’s meat loaf and baked potatoes. | SERVES 6 TO 8
2 EGGS
1¼ CUPS WHOLE MILK
2 PINCHES OF SEA SALT
¾ CUP SLICED ALMONDS
1 TO 2 TABLESPOONS CANOLA, PEANUT, OR SUNFLOWER OIL
2 SMALL YELLOW ONIONS, THINLY SLICED THROUGH THE STEM END
1 TO 2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 TO 2 TABLESPOONS CURRY POWDER
1 TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
1 LARGE CARROT, PEELED AND GRATED
1 LARGE GRANNY SMITH OR OTHER TART GREEN APPLE, GRATED
8 OR 9 DRIED APRICOTS, THINLY SLICED OR FINELY DICED
⅓ CUP (2 OUNCES) FIRMLY PACKED GOLDEN RAISINS
2 SLICES STALE WHITE BREAD, CRUSTS REMOVED, TORN INTO PIECES, AND SOAKED IN ¼ CUP WHOLE MILK
1½ TEASPOONS SEA SALT
½ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 POUNDS GROUND LAMB, OR 1 POUND EACH GROUND LAMB AND GROUND BUFFALO OR BEEF
3 OR 4 BAY LEAVES
8 UNIFORM-SIZE SWEET POTATOES
OLIVE OR PEANUT OIL, FOR RUBBING
SEA SALT
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
While the oven is heating, make the custard. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and salt until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
Spread the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, pop the pan into the oven, and toast for about 7 minutes, until golden brown. Pour onto a plate and let cool. Leave the oven set at 350°F.
In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onions, stir to coat with the oil, cover, and cook, shaking the pan frequently, for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until translucent, very tender, and just beginning to caramelize (
see more on caramelizing onions). If the onions begin to scorch, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the curry powder (use the smaller amount if you like less spice) and turmeric and cook, stirring, for 30 to 60 seconds, until nicely aromatic. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, then combine with the toasted almonds, carrot, apple, apricots, raisins, the soaked bread and any remaining milk, and the salt and pepper in a big bowl, and mix well. Add the meat and mix well. Fry a nugget of the mixture in a little oil, taste, and adjust the seasoning of the mixture.
Transfer the mixture to a large
cazuela (see headnote for
Roasted Squab) or other large round or oval baking dish and pat down to even the surface and remove any air pockets. Spear the bay leaves into the dish at regular intervals, leaving them exposed enough so that you can pull them out after baking. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until it is just firming up. Carefully remove the dish from the oven and drain off any excess fat that has risen to the surface. Pour the custard evenly over the top, return the dish to the oven, and bake for about 20 minutes more, until the custard is set.
Once the bobotie has begun baking, rub the sweet potatoes with oil and salt and prick each potato in a couple of places with fork tines. Place the sweet potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and slip them into the oven after the bobotie has been cooking for 15 to 20 minutes. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until fork-tender.
To serve, place the bobotie on the table in the dish in which it was baked. Arrange the sweet potatoes on a platter and set the sweet potatoes, smoor, sambal, and chutney alongside the bobotie.
Sugar is traditionally added to this dish, but I don’t use it and my version turns out quite tasty. Whether you need it will depend on how sweet the tomatoes are. An alternative way to make this dish is to cook the caramelized onions as directed. Then cut the tomatoes in half through the equator, place cut side up in a baking dish, season with the chile, sugar (if using), and salt, and top with the onions. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven until hot throughout but not falling apart. This usually takes about 20 minutes. The tomatoes look nice and hold their shape this way. | SERVES 6 TO 8
2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE YELLOW ONION, CUT INTO ¼-INCH-THICK SLICES
6 TO 8 TOMATOES,
PEELED AND COARSELY CHOPPED
1 SMALL JALAPEÑO CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND MINCED
UP TO 1 TABLESPOON SUGAR (OPTIONAL)
1 TO 1½ TEASPOONS SEA SALT
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, stir to coat with the oil, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the onion starts to turn golden. Decrease the heat to medium-low and continue to cook slowly for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onion is nicely browned on the edges. Stir more frequently as the onion begins to caramelize to prevent burning (
see more on caramelizing onions).
Add the tomatoes, chile, and sugar, stir well, and cook over the lowest heat setting for 15 to 20 minutes, until well heated. Do not cook the mixture so long that you end up with a sauce. If you cannot set the heat low enough, use a
heat diffuser. Season to taste with the salt, transfer to a bowl, and serve hot or warm.
If you can, make this sambal several days ahead, as the flavor improves with sitting. I serve it alongside bobotie, but it is also a great condiment in sandwiches, with roasted pork or chicken, or with most curries. Adjust the amount of sugar according to the sweetness of the carrots. | MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
SEEDS FROM 2 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS
2 DRIED ÁRBOL OR OTHER HOT DRIED CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND CHOPPED
1 POUND CARROTS, PEELED AND GRATED
1 TABLESPOON PEELED AND MINCED OR GRATED FRESH GINGER
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TO ¾ CUP SUGAR
½ CUP WATER
¼ CUP DISTILLED WHITE VINEGAR
Smack the cardamom seeds with the side of a chef’s knife to pulverize, or grind in a spice grinder, a well-cleaned coffee grinder, or a mortar with the chiles until pulverized.
In a heavy, nonreactive pot, combine the carrots, ginger, garlic, salt, ½ cup of the sugar, the water, and the cardamom and chile. Bring to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Add the vinegar and cook for about 30 minutes more. The carrots are ready when they are translucent and a bit spicy. Taste for sweetness and add some or all of the remaining sugar, if needed. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
In spring and early summer, when fresh apricots are available, I use them for this chutney. But I have also made it with 1 mango, peeled and diced, or 2 large or 4 small tomatoes, peeled and quartered, at other times of the year. | MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
1½ CUPS DRIED APRICOTS
4 FRESH APRICOTS, PEELED AND DICED
3 BIRD CHILES, OR 2 SERRANO AND 1 JALAPEÑO CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND MINCED
2-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND FINELY GRATED
1 LARGE CLOVE GARLIC,
SMASHED AND THEN MINCED
½ CUP CIDER VINEGAR
2 TO 4 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
¼ CUP WATER
In a heavy, nonreactive saucepan, combine the dried apricots with water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and let soak for 10 minutes. Drain the apricots and dice.
In a heavy, nonreactive saucepan, combine the rehydrated dried apricots, fresh apricots, chiles, ginger, garlic, vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Decrease the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 to 60 minutes, until thick and wonderful. Taste about halfway through cooking and add some or all of the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, if necessary. Stir the chutney off and on as it cooks and take care that it doesn’t scorch on the pan bottom. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
WITH BLOOD ORANGE COMPOTE
I found only one recipe for this typical South African tart in my cookbook collection, so I turned to the Internet for more ideas. In the end, I used the pastry recipe that I included in my Fog City Diner Cookbook because it comes out so nice and flaky. But I have added a style variation that I discovered in a South African recipe: grating the frozen butter into the flour mixture. It works great. Just make sure that you put the flour into the bowl first and grate the butter on top, or the butter will be difficult to mix evenly.
Although milk tarts are sometimes made without a crust, I prefer them with the pastry shell. Otherwise, the dessert seems too much like a dish of baked milk. I have used blood oranges for the compote, but any good oranges or even raspberries or strawberries would be delicious. Both the filling and the tart shell can be made up to a day ahead, which makes this a great party dessert. Keep the filling in the refrigerator and the tart shell chilled until just before baking, and then combine them and put the tart in the oven to bake while you sit down to the main course. This way, the tart will be warm when you are ready to serve it. I think it tastes best warm, but it can also be served hot, at room temperature, or chilled.
This is not a sweet dessert. David Gold, a local veterinarian who is from South Africa, told me that my milk tart tasted like home. It is sort of a nursery school tart—that is, it is geared toward a little kid’s palate. Some of the testers thought it needed more sugar. If you like your desserts sweet, add more sugar to the filling and accompany the tart with the chantilly cream. | MAKES ONE 9-INCH TART; SERVES 6 TO 8
2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
1 TEASPOON GRANULATED SUGAR (OPTIONAL)
1 CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, FROZEN
3 TO 5 TABLESPOONS ICE WATER
¼ CUP CAKE FLOUR
¾ TEASPOON BAKING POWDER
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
3 EGGS
¾ CUP GRANULATED SUGAR
2 CUPS WHOLE MILK
1 TEASPOON PURE VANILLA EXTRACT
⅛ TEASPOON PURE ALMOND EXTRACT
2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, MELTED
1½ TEASPOONS GRANULATED SUGAR MIXED WITH ½ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
1 CUP HEAVY CREAM
¼ CUP CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR
½ TEASPOON PURE VANILLA EXTRACT
5 OR 6 BLOOD ORANGES
½ VANILLA BEAN, SPLIT LENGTHWISE, OR ½ TEASPOON PURE VANILLA EXTRACT
2 TO 4 TABLESPOONS GRANULATED SUGAR
To make the tart shell, in the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the flour, salt, and granulated sugar. Using the large holes on a box grater, grate the frozen butter onto the flour mixture and toss to mix lightly. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and beat together the flour and butter on medium speed just until combined. On low speed, add the ice water, a little at a time, and mix just until the dough comes together in a rough mass. (Add the water slowly because you may not need it all.)
Transfer the dough to a large piece of plastic wrap, shape it into a disk about 1 inch thick, and wrap in the plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Butter a 9-inch fluted classic pie dish.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into an 11-inch round about ¼ inch thick. Roll the dough around the pin, position the pin over the prepared pie dish, and then unroll the dough, centering it over the dish. Gently press the dough snuggly into the bottom and sides of the dish. Take care not to stretch the dough, as it will shrink during baking. Turn the edge under on the rim and flute. Line the tart shell with a piece of aluminum foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans.
Place the tart shell in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Decrease the heat to 350°F, remove the weights and foil, return to the oven, and bake for 4 to 7 minutes longer, until golden. Let cool on a rack. Leave the oven set at 350°F.
To make the filling, in a small bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Pour in the milk and the vanilla and almond extracts and whisk to combine. Then slowly sprinkle the flour mixture into the egg mixture, stirring as you go and mixing well. Stir in the butter and pour the filling into the cooled, prebaked shell. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar evenly over the top and bake for about 45 minutes, until set. Transfer to a rack.
While the tart is baking, make the
chantilly cream. In a bowl, whisk together the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla until thickened to the consistency of whipped cream. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
To make the compote, working with 1 orange at a time, cut a slice off the top and bottom just to reveal the flesh. Stand the orange upright on a cutting board and slice off the peel, pith, and membrane in wide strips, working from the top to the bottom and following the contour of the fruit. Holding the fruit in one hand over a bowl, cut along either side of each section to free it from the membrane, and allow the sections to drop into the bowl. Repeat with the remaining oranges.
Using the tip of a paring knife, scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean onto the oranges, and then add the spent pod halves, or drizzle the vanilla extract over the oranges. Sprinkle with the granulated sugar to taste and mix well. Let sit for a while to allow the flavors to develop. If you have used the vanilla bean, remove the pod halves before serving.
Cut the warm tart into slices and transfer to individual plates. Top each serving with some of the compote and chantilly cream and a sprinkle of the almonds.
