Surf Is Where You Find It (Revised and Expanded)

CONTENTS

Sweet Candy Days

A First Time at the Pipeline

A Giant Among Men

Flippy, Pipe Days

The Track of the Cat

Momentary Entertainment

The Fastest Wave in the World

Whitey and the Duke

iii.ALL SHOOK UP

Everything Bad Goes Down in Parking Lots

Caught Inside Again

Incident at Eke Moku

The Mother of All Pipeline Swells

A Good Day to Die

iv.TRAVELING FOR SURF

Tales of Indonesia

Treasure Islands

The Mile-Long Rides

The Demise of the Ditch

vi.JUST FOR FUN

The Money Motive

The Best Surfer in the Flesh

A Saturday at Ala Moana

Get It While You Can

The Coral Cruiser

A reflective moment on the beach about something … a wave, a surfboard, a girl? Photo: Art Brewer