Contents
Acknowledgments
Preface
Anchor Failure
Revisiting the Cordelette
Escaping the Belay
Introduction
Secure
When Does “Good Enough” Become Too Much?
SRENE—Sound Practice, But Not the Final Word in Anchors
About This Guide
A Brief History of Rock Hardware
Part I: Simple Anchors
Chapter 1: Natural Anchors
Trees
Shrubs and Bushes
Boulders and Blocks
Horns
Threading Tunnels
Chockstones
Chapter 2: Passive Chocks
Tapers
Oppositional Nuts
Offset Tapers
Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts)
All the Rest
Removing Passive Chocks
Chapter 3: Mechanical Chocks
Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
Sliding Nuts
Summary
Chapter 4: Fixed Gear
Pitons
Bolts
Cold Shuts
Webbing (Sling Material)
Cordage
Chapter 5: Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut
Static and Dynamic Forces
Dynamic Forces in a Fall
The Top Piece
Conclusion
Chapter 6: Judging the Direction of Pull
Direction of Pull and Anchor Building
Swing
Direction of Pull on Primary Placements
Chapter 7: Knots for Anchoring
Ring Bend
Double Fisherman’s
Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight
Clove Hitch
Bowline-on-a-Bight
Munter Hitch
Knot Strength
Part II: Anchor Systems
Chapter 8: SRENE Anchors
Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion
Chapter 9: Belay Anchors
Building Belay Anchors—A Step-by-Step Process
Static and Pre-equalized Systems
Cordelettes
The Sliding X
The Equalette
Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X, and Equalette
What’s Best for Beginners?
Upward Oppositional Anchors
Belay Positions
Anchor Test Results
Chapter 10: Other Anchors
Toprope Anchors
Rappel Anchors
Bivouac Anchors
Big Wall Anchors
Review
Conclusion
Appendix
Gear Manufacturers and Sources
Essential Reading
Supplemental Instruction
About the Authors